REESE  LIBRARY 

OF  THE 

UNIVERSITY  OF  CALIFORNIA. 
C/ass 


EMIGRANTS'  GUIDE: 


A  DESCRIPTION  OF 


WISCONSIN,  ILLINOIS,  AND  IOWA; 


WITH    REMARKS    ON 


MINNESOTA,  AND  OTHER  TERRITORIES. 


BY    DANIEL    S.    CUIITISS. 


NEW    YORK: 
PUBLISHED   BY    J.    H.    COLTON 

86  CEDAR    STREET. 
1852. 


fr 


Entered,  according  to  act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  1851,  by 
J.  H.  COLTON, 

in  the  Clerk's  Office  of  the  District  Court  of  the  United  States  for  the  Southern 
District  of  New  York. 


STEREOTYPED  A.ND  PRINTED  HY  1  UDNEY  &  HUSSELL,  79  JOHN-ST. 


TO    HENRY    O'RIELLY,    ESQ.: 

Whose  vast  Enterprise  has  been  eminently  advantageous 
to  The  West ;  who  extended  a  generous  confidence  to  me 
at  an  early  age  and  when  a  stranger — Confidence,  the  no 
blest  principle  in  Human  Nature,  as  Faith  is  the  sublimest 
in  Christianity — and  whose  manly  friendship  I  have  sub 
sequently  enjoyed,  this  Book  is  cordially  Dedicated  as  a 
Token  of  Grateful  Remembrance 

By  the 

AUTHOR. 


203733 


CONTENTS, 


PREFACE,  11. 

INTRODUCTION  ;  Western  Emigration,  Difficulty  of  Early 
Traveling,  The  Puritans,  East  and  West,  Rochester  and 
Chicago,  compared,  O'Rielly's  Book,  Harbor  and  River  Con 
vention,  Routes  from  the  Atlantic  to  the  Lakes,  16. 

TRIP  UP  THE  LAKES:  Dunkirk,  Erie,  Cleveland,  Mon 
roe,  Toledo,  Detroit,  Fort  Gratiot,  Lake  Huron,  Mackinaw, 
33 — Sunsets,  Sports,  Islands,  Door  County,  Manitowoc,  She- 
boygan,  38 — Washington  County,  Ozaukee,  Milwaukee, 
Railroad,  39 — City  and  County,  Plankroad,  Real  Estate,  41 — 
Racine,  Kenosha,  43 — Waukegan,  44. 

CHICAGO :  Canal,  Railroad,  Lumber  Trade,  45— Scenery, 
Soil,  and  Trade,  47 — Transportation,  Commerce,  Wholesale 
Trade,  51 — Plankroads,  Agricultural  Papers,  Aurora  Bore- 
alis,  53 — Traveling  between  Chicago  and  Detroit,  Chicago 
Harbor,  55 — Shipping,  Indian  Treaty,  50 — School  Fund, 
Houses,  Colleges,  59 — Summit,  Lyons,  Calumet,  etc.,  60. 

TRIP  TO  MINNESOTA:  Canal,  Illinois  and  Mississippi 
Rivers,  62 — Towns  and  Lands  along  the  Canal,  63 — Rock 
Island  and  Chicago  Railroad,  64 — Canal  and  Tolls,  65 — Cook, 
Dupage,  and  Will  Counties,  66 — Grundy  and  La  Salle 


VI  CONTENTS. 

Counties,  67 — Ottawa,  Peru,  and  La  Salle,  68 — Stage  and 
Railroad  Route  to  the  Illinois  River,  71 — Fox  River  Coun 
try,  Prairies^  72 — Western  and  Eastern  River  Countries 
compared,  Science  in  Farming,  Flax  and  Hemp,  73 — Origin 
of  the  Prairies,  74 — Illinois  River  Country,  Distances,  75 — 
Mississippi,  St.  Louis,  Hannibal,  Quincy,  76 — Adams  Coun 
ty,  78 — Warsaw,  Churchville,  Keokuk,  79 — Des  Moines 
River,  Nauvoo,  80 — Burlington,  Oquawka,  Muscatine,  81 — 
Wapello,  Iowa  City,  Davenport,  82 — Sacs  and  Fox  Indians, 
Rock  Island,  83 — Le  Clare,  Clinton  County,  84 — Scenery  at 
Rock  Island,  85 — Moline,  Camden,  Mississippi  Bridge,  86 — 
O'Rielly  Telegraphs,  87 — Galena  and  Dubuque,  88 — Potosi, 
Cassville,  Land  Monopoly,  89 — Peoria  to  Galena,  90 — Galena 
to  Prairie  du  Chien,  92— Platte  Mounds,  Belmonte,  93— 
Prairie  Fires,  95 — Plattewlle  and  Lancaster,  97 — Passage  to 
St.  Anthony's,  98 — Winnebago  Indians,  Lake  Pepin,  99 — 
Indian  Summer,  100 — Mississippi,  Crapauds,  103 — Cross 
Camp,  Indian  Encampments,  105 — Lake  Pepin,  Black  Point, 
107 — Maiden's  Rock,  St.  Croix  River,  Indian  Sickness, 
108 — Great  Medicine,  St.  Peter's  River,  and  St.  Anthony's 
Falls,  111 — Minnesota,  Military  Post,  and  Fort  Snelling, 
112 — ST.  PAULS,  the  Territorial  Capital,  and  other  Towns, 
114 — Dimensions  of  the  Falls,  Legendary,  115 — St.  Croix, 
Lake,  River,  and  Towns,  117 — Legends  of  Maiden  Rock, 
Lake  Pepin,  118— Black  Hawk,  Battle  at  Bad  Ax,  120— 
Falling  Stars,  121 — Minnesota,  Selkirk  Settlements,  123 — 
Carver  Tract,  St.  Pauls,  Telegraph,  126 — Caves,  Snakes, 
etc.,  127. 

WISCONSIN:  Boundaries,  History,  etc.,  129— Ancient 
Mounds,  132 — Western  Advantages,  Money  Loans,  Educa 
tion,  Gardens  of  the  West,  139 — Kossuth,  Ujhazy,  Govern 
ment  Lands,  Free  Settlements,  141 — Growth  and  Limits  of 
Wisconsin,  142 — Brothertown  and  Oneida  Indian  Settle- 


CONTENTS.  Vll 

ments,  144 — Face  of  the  Country,  145 — Rivers  and  Mounds, 
146 — Counties,  Towns,  Rivers,  148 — Wisconsin  River,  150 — 
Grant  County,  151 — Earl  Murray,  Platte  Mounds,  152 — 
General  Smith,  153 — Iowa  County,  Dane  County,  154 — La 
borers  in  Cities,  Duty  of  Government,  155 — Rivers,  Lakes, 
and  Scenery,  159 — Farwell's  Mills,  Land  Monopoly,  161 — 
MADISON,  the  State  Capital,  162 — Columbia  County,  Fort 
Winnebago,  164 — Marquette  County,  165 — Fon  du  Lac 
County,  166 — Tacheda,  Ceresco,  167 — Winnebago  County, 
168 — Calumet  County,  Dodge  County,  16j) — Jefferson 
County,  Watertown,  171 — Waukesha  County,  Lakes,  172 — 
Walworth  County,  Elkhorn,  174 — Rock  County,  Janesville, 
Beloit,  Green  County,  176 — Lafayette  County,  Brown 
County,  177 — Nenah  and  Wisconsin  rivers,  179 — Green 
Bay  and  Depere,  180 — Bad  Ax  County,  La  Crosse  County, 
182— Chippewa,  St.  Croix,  and  La  Pointe,  183— Marathon 
and  other  new  Counties,  184 — Recapitulation,  185. 

IOWA  :  Location,  Boundary,  Climate,  186 — IOWA  CITY,  the 
State  Capital,  189 — Des  Moines  River  Country,  Van  Buren, 
Wapello,  and  Mahaska  Counties,  190 — Ottumwa,  Oskaloosa, 
Pella,  Polk,  Dallas,  Lucas,  Buchanan,  Delaware,  Delhi,  191 — 
Clayton,  Jackson,  Jones,  Cedar,  Iowa,  194 — Jasper,  Jeffer 
son,  Clinton,  Henry,  Washington,  ]95 — Mount  Pleasant, 
Rivers,  Recapitulation,  196 — Minerals,  Provisions,  Railroads, 
197 — Council  Bluffs,  Roads,  Doctor  Clark,  Upper  Counties, 
198. 

ILLINOIS  :  Improvements,  History,  Convention,  First 
White  Settlements,  199 — Indian  Treaties,  Boundaries,  Name 
of  State,  Population,  200 — Character  of  Western  People, 
Health  of  Country,  Flower  Gardens,  etc.,  204 — Horseback 
Riding — Face  of  the  Country,  Grand  Prairie,  Internal  Im 
provements,  210 — Various  Railroads,  212  to  216 — Hunting 


Ill  CONTENTS. 

and  Fishing,  217 — Rock  River  Country,  210— Sangamon 
River  Country,  Illinois  Beef,  221 — SPRINGFIELD,  the  State 
Capital,  222 — Okau  River  Country,  Wire  Fences,  224 — 
Military  Bounty  Tract,  225 — Bottom  Lands,  the  American 
Bottom,  226 — Vegetation  and  Health,  Timbered  Land,  227 — 
Rivers,  230 — Cairo,  Lead,  Captain  Gear,  233 — Minerals, 
236 — Productions  of  the  Soil,  238 — Climate,  Indian  Summer, 
Frosts,  240 — Counties  and  Towns,  243 — Adams,  Bond,  Boone, 
Belvidere,  Big  Thunder,  Mrs.  Towner,  244 — Bureau,  Cass, 
Champaign,  Cook,  245 — Cumberland,  Clark,  Clay,  Clinton, 
Coles,  247 — Christian,  Crawford,  Carroll,  Edgar,  Edwards, 
248— Effingham,  De  Kalb,  Dupage,  Do  Witt,  Fayetto, 
249— Franklin,  Fulton,  Gallatin,  Salt  Works,  250— Greene, 
Grundy,  Hamilton,  Hancock,  Henry,  Henderson,  Hardy, 
Rockincave,  252 — Robbers'  Retreat,  Iroquois,  Jackson, 
Fountain  Bluff,  253 — Jackson,  Jefferson,  Jo  Daviess,  Will 
iam  Hempstead,  Esq.,  255 — Minerals,  Spars,  256 — John 
son,  Jersey,  Kane,  Knox,  Kendall,  La  Salle,  257 — Starved 
Rock,  Lovers'  Leap,  Lawrence,  Indian  Creek  Massacre, 
258— Buffalo  Rock,  Livingston,  262— Lake,  Lee,  Shab- 
bena's  Grove,  263 — Logan,  Marshall,  Mason,  Massac,  Me- 
nard,  264 — Macoupin,  Marion,  Me  Donough,  Me  Henry, 
265 — Me  Lean,  Mercer,  Monroe,  Macon,  266 — Madison, 
Monk  Hill,  267 — Alton,  Moultrie,  Montgomery,  Morgan, 
Railroad,  268 — Illinois  College,  Ogle,  Oregon  City,  269 — 
Peoria,  Perry,  Pyatt,  Pike,  270— Pope,  Pulaski,  Putnam, 
Hennepin,  -272 — Randolph,  Fort  Chartres,  French  Towns, 
273 — Rock  Island,  Richland,  Saline,  Sangamon,  Springfield, 
275— Scott,  Schuyler,  Shelby,  Stark,  St.  Clair,  276— St. 
Clair  Coal  Company,  Stephenson,  278 — Tazewell,  Union, 
Vermillion,  279— Wabash,  Warren,  Washington,  280— 
Wayne,  White,  Whitesides,  Will,  281— Winnebago,  Hymn 
from  the  Prairies,  J.  Clement,  282— Rockford,  Williamson, 


CONTENTS.  IX 

Woodford,  283— Recapitulation ;  The  North  and  South,  a 
Symbolic  Picture,  Thunder  Storm,  284. 

THE  HIGHER  ASPECTS  OF  THE  WEST :  John  E. 
Wheeler,  Dr.  Bushnell,  298— Names  of  the  States,  302 — 
Routes,  etc.,  303. 

THOMPSON'S  LETTERS  :  Travels  down  the  Illinois  River, 
up  the  Mississippi,  and  across  the  State  of  Wisconsin  to 
Lake  Michigan,  306  to  342. 

NEWSPAPERS  AND  PERIODICALS:  In  Wisconsin,  Il 
linois,  and  Iowa,  their  Names,  Character,  and  where  Pub 
lished,  343  to  348. 

CONCLUSION  :     Governor  Doty's  Letter,  349  to  351. 


OF  THE 

UNIVERSITY 


PREFACE, 


MOST  persons  who  design  emigrating  to  THE  WEST — whether 
Americans  or  Foreigners — have  but  a  limited,  and  often  incorrect, 
knowledge  of  that  region — its  lands,  resources,  facilities,  and 
business — of  the  distinguishing  features  of  different  sections ; 
hence,  they  cannot  easily  determine  which  way  to  direct  their 
course  ;  so  that  they  are  anxious  to  make  inquiries,  and  elicit 
facts,  from  those  who  are  acquainted  with  that  country  ;  which,  at 
most,  is  a  limited  means  of  information.  It  would  be  convenient 
and  advantageous  to  emigrants,  to  have,  before  starting,  some 
general  and  reliable  statements,  respecting  the  distinct  character 
istics  of  the  various  Western  States,  or  of  the  different  portions  of 
each  of  those  states  ;  it  might  save  them  much  travel  arid  expense. 

There  have  been  published  several  very  useful  and  interesting 
Guides  and  Gazetteers  of  the  West— for  times  past — but  tiie 
transformations,  the  improvements,  are  so  rapid  and  extensive, 
that,  those  books  give  only  slight  and  imperfect  knowledge  of  that 
progressive  region,  as  the  present  finds  it.  So  quick  and  numer 
ous  are  the  changes  in  the  West,  that  the  traveler  of  the  spring, 
returning  by  the  same  route  in  autumn,  scarcely  knows  his 
whereabouts ;  and  the  pioneer  who  makes  a  summer's  visit  to  his 
old  home-place,  is  equally  surprised,  on  his  return,  at  the  changes 
which  have  taken  place,  the  advancement  made  there,  and  he 
hardly  recognizes  the  locality  of  his  new  home,  after  the  short 
absence  of  one  season.  Immigrants  have  "  located,"  new  shantees 
have  been  stuck  up,  and  they  even  succeeded  by  new  houses,  new 
fences  have  been  made,  new  roads  laid,  and  new  ditches  dug. 

The  enchanting  power  of  industry,  in  a  genial  clime,  on  a  fertile 
soil,  has  done  this ;  but  it  is  not  illusory  enchantment. 

Thus,  the  descriptive  book  of  the  earlier  days,  is  but  a  dim 
volume  now ;  and  another  is  wanted  nearly  as  much  as  if  the  first 
were  not  written. 


Xll  PREFACE. 

To  try  to  supply  this  want,  to  that  enterprising  class,  is  the  ob 
ject  of  the  writer  in  preparing  this  little  volume — in  a  plain  and 
faithful  narrative  of  facts,  in  regard  to  appearances,  prospects, 
and  statistics,  of  the  Great  West. 

While  traveling  several  years,  on  business  connected  with  news 
papers  and  telegraph  lines,  through  the  states  of  WISCONSIN,  IL 
LINOIS,  and  IOWA,  spending  some  time  in  nearly  all  of  the  princi 
pal  towns  and  cities,  the  writer  made  examinations  of  the  soil,  and 
collected  facts  of  business  and  progress,  which  enable  him  to  give 
generally  correct  and  familiar  descriptions  of  the  great  and  vari 
ous  resources  of  those  states — their  lands,  mines,  improvements, 
conveyances,  markets,  etc.,  the  pecxiliarities  of  the  different  tracts 
of  land— from  personal  inspection ;  and  all  contrasted  with  the 
facts  and  condition  a  few  years  previous. 

Some  general  remarks  are  also  given  upon  the  character  and 
prospects  of  Minnesota,  though  but  briefly,  as  the  writer  is  less 
acquainted  with  that  territory  than  with  the  three  states  named. 

It  is  not  pretended,  in  this  little  Emigrant  Manual,  to  furnish 
extended  and  detailed  accounts  of  the  discovery  and  early  trials 
and  settlement  of  the  AVest,  as  that  is  more  the  sphere  of  the  his 
torian,  than  of  the  traveling  delineator,  whose  aim  is  to  portray 
present  scenes  and  aspects,  yet  some  brief  items  of  history  are 
given. 

Still,  the  more  fully  and  forcibly  to  convey  some  adequate 
knowledge  of  the  rich  resources  and  proud  progress  of  the  New 
Country,  the  writings  of  several  interesting  Tourists,  in  1833, 
1837,  and  1840,  have  been  freely  examined,  and  extended  ex 
tracts  copied  from  them,  that  the  present  may  be  more  clearly 
appreciated,  as  viewed  in  contrast  with  the  past. 

The  extensive  system  of  Railroads  and  other  Improvements 
which  the  Western  States  have  recently  projected — and  are  en 
gaged  in,  soon  to  be  completed — have  excited  at  the  East  a  lively 
and  increased  interest  in  the  destiny  of  the  New  States,  eliciting 
more  earnest  attention  to  them,  and  inducing  more  numerous 
emigration  from  among  the  wealthy  and  business  classes  of  the 
older  states. 

Besides,  millions  of  the  surplus  means  of  Eastern  capitalists 
have,  within  a  short  period,  been  invested  in  the  Internal  Improve 
ments  of  the  New  states,  which  also  tends  to  enlist  curiosity  and 
attention  toward  the  West,  creating  greater  earnestness  for 
knowledge  in  regard  to  that  region,  as  to  its  operations  and 
natural  resources. 


PREFACE.  Xlll 

It  is  hoped  and  intended  that  this  work  shall,  to  some  satisfac 
tory  degree,  gratify  that  desire,  and  thus  secure  for  it  a  ready 
sale  among  those  interested. 

Those  great  and  popular  national  enterprises — a  line  of  Tele 
graph,  with  stockades  of  armed  and  mounted  mail-carriers,  and  a 
Railroad  to  the  Pacific — are  becoming  earnestly-talked-of  projects, 
demanding  the  special  attention  of  the  General  Government,  hav 
ing  enlisted  the  lively  exertions  of  many  Senators  and  Representa 
tives  in  Congress. 

Under  these  circumstances,  the  great  Mississippi  Valley  country 
becomes  invested  with  a  more  vast  importance  than  any  other 
equal  section  of  our  nation,  and  must  be  so  regarded  by  the  people 
generally ;  hence,  every  source  of  information  in  regard  to  it  will 
be  useful  and  sought  after  by  the  whole  community,  and  even  by 
large  capitalists  beyond  the  Atlantic. 

Most  of  my  facts  and  descriptions  are  given  from  personal  ob 
servation  and  inspection ;  but  where  not,  the  best  authorities 
have  been  consulted,  such  as  accredited  Gazetteers,  Books  of 
Travel,  Surveyors'  Reports,  Correspondence,  Colton's  late  maps, 
and  others ;  so  that  it  is  believed  the  statements  are  reliable,  at 
least  in  all  essential  matters. 

It  is  believed,  too,  that  the  information  contained  in  this  boob- 
is  made  so  plain,  complete,  and  explicit,  that  it  may  be  servicea 
ble  to  Emigrants  and  Emigration  Companies  in  Europe ;  so  as  to 
enable  them  to  set  out  for  the  new  lands  in  America  more  intelli 
gently  than  they  otherwise  could  do. 

As  matter  which  will  be  interesting  to  readers  generally,  for 
the  facts  which  they  contain,  and  for  the  graphic  descriptions 
which  they  present,  of  some  features  and  locations  in  the  West,  I 
have  inserted  several  letters  written  by  Rev.  J.  P.  THOMPSON,  of 
New  York,  who  made  a  tour  through  some  of  the  Western  States, 
during  the  past  summer,  which  may  be  relied  upon.  Of  the  ne 
cessity  of  reliable  portraitures  and  statistics  of  the  West,  Mr. 
Thompson  says  : 

*'  One  of  the  most  necessary  accouterments  for  a  journey  West 
ward  is  a  good  set  of  maps  and  guide-books.  These  enable  you  to 
keep  your  whereabouts  while  shifting  from  place  to  place.  I  have 
found  Dinsmore's  Railway  Guide  for  the  United  States  entirely 
reliable,  so  far  as  railroads  are  concerned ;  but  in  a  journey  of 
thousands  of  miles  in  a  new  country  this  of  course  answers  only 
for  part  of  the  way.  The  Western  Tourist  and  Emigrant's  Guide, 
by  J.  H.  COL.TON,  together  with  his  new  series  of  pocket  msaps  of 


XIV  PREFACE. 

the  Western  States,  has  been  of  much  service  to  me  in  fixing  lo 
calities." 

"  The  Tourist,  though  published  last  year  and  therefore  some 
what  imperfect  as  regards  the  newer  routes  and  also  as  to  statis 
tics  of  population — being  based  upon  the  census  of  1840 — never 
theless  contains  much  information  important  to  the  traveler,  and 
expressed  in  a  clear  and  concise  manner.  Its  tabular  view  of 
distances  on  the  main  routes  of  travel  is  especially  valuable." 

By  the  many  questions  which  have  been  addressed  to  him,  to 
gether  with  the  requests  of  many  good  friends,  he  is  induced  to 
hurry  out  this  work  at  this  time  ;  as  a  guide  to  the  emigrant  west 
ward,  whether  farmer,  mechanic,  merchant,  or  professional  man. 

It  is  also  believed  that  such  a  book  would  oftentimes  be  an  ad 
vantage  and  convenience  to  merchants  and  other  business  men  in  the 
Atlantic  cities,  as  a  matter  of  reference,  respecting  the  business 
and  prospects  of  Western  towns ;  as  much  care  is  taken  that  the 
statement  of  facts  shall  be  correct. 

Our  GREAT  WEST  is  a  fertile,  healthy,  and  beautiful  country, 
whose  bountiful  products  reward  toil  and  enterprise  more  liberally 
than  any  other  part  of  the  world ;  and  already  begins  to  number 
its  millions  of  industrious  and  intelligent  population,  with  millions 
more  turning  their  thoughts  and  faces  thitherward. 

The  schemes  of  Internal  Improvements  there  are  liberal  and  ex 
tensive;  and  many  routes,  in  various  sections,  are  being  prose 
cuted  with  great  activity  and  progress  ;  being  works  of  such  pal 
pable  utility  as  to  have  secured  large  and  sufficient  amounts  of  the 
surplus  capital  of  the  Eastern  States  and  England,  for  their  con 
struction,  without  embarrassing  the  New  States  with  onerous  debts. 

Our  Canals  are  dug  and  doing  a  lai'ge  business  ;  portions  of  our 
Railroads  are  built  and  in  operation ;  and  the  whole  are  under 
safe  and  speedy  advance  toward  completion ;  so  we  have  no  grounds 
to  fear  the  suspensions  and  confusions  which  took  place  a  few  years 
ago — for  want  of  funds  to  proceed  with ;  they  are  provided  for 
from  the  rich  coffers  of  the  millionaires  in  the  older  settled  coun 
tries.  So  that  there  never  was  a  more  auspicious  season  for  pur 
chasing  and  settling  in  the  West,  than  the  present ;  and  if  this 
little  volume  shall  prove  beneficial  to  any — cither  those  who  wish 
to  buy,  or  those  who  want  to  sell — my  efforts  will  not  have  been 
in  vain,  in  this  undertaking. 

The  writer's  home  is  in  The  West,  a  country  with  which  he  has 
been  more  and  more  pleased,  as  he  became  better  acquainted  with 
it;  and  to  all  for  whose  happiness  he  feels  interested,  he  could 


PREFACE.  XV 

scarcely  give  them  more  kindly  counsel,  than  to  advise  them  fairly 
to  consider  the  claims  and  prospects  of  tho  West,  then  remove 
there  and  enjoy  them. 

The  work  will  be  accompanied  by  a  superb  Map  of  the  three 
states,  Illinois,  Wisconsin,  Iowa,  and  the  territory  of  Minnesota, 
prepared  in  accordance  with  the  latest  authorities. 

D.  S.  C. 

CHICAGO,  November,  1851. 


INTRODUCTION. 


FOR  many  years,  particularly  after  the  late  war  with  Great 
Britain  (1812-15),  emigration  has  been  considerable  from  the  older 
to  the  New  States ;  and  until  recently,  much  the  larger  portion  of 
that  emigration  settled  in  Ohio,  Michigan  and  Indiana  ;  not  many 
venturing  beyond  the  Great  Lakes  ;  the  States  and  Territories  in 
that  region,  along  the  large  rivers,  were  slowly  but  steadily,  in 
early  times,  receiving  settlers  from  some  of  the  Southern  States, 
which  for  many  years  constituted  the  largest  portion  of  their  ac 
cessions  of  population. 

But  now,  the  case  is  different :  WISCONSIN,  ILLINOIS,  and  IOWA, 
are  receiving  a  large  majority  of  the  throngs  of  industrious  and 
enterprising  people  that  are  seeking  New  Homes  in  the  New  Coun 
try  ;  while  the  Territory  of  Minnesota,  a  rising  star  in  the  north, 
is  also  receiving  considerable  acquisitions  to  her  population,  by 
the  flood  of  immigration. 

Perhaps,  right  here,  a  few  passing  remarks  will  not  be  out  of 
place,  explanatory  of  the  words  so  much  in  use,  now-a-days,  viz: 
migrate,  emigrant,  immigration.  To  migrate  or  migrating,  I  un 
derstand  to  mean,  simply,  to  change  location  periodically  or  tem 
porarily  ;  as,  in  the  hot  seasons  Southerners  come  north  to  spend 
the  summer,  and  Northerners  go  south  to  pass  the  cold  season,  both 
designing  soon  to  return ;  but  not  locating  or  settling  permanently 
in  a  new  place.  Emigrating  is  leaving  a  country ;  and  immigrat 
ing  is  coming  into  a  country  ;  as  an  Englishman  or  Irishman  is  an 
emigrant  with  respect  to  his  own  country  upon  leaving  it ;  and, 
coming  into  this  country,  he  is  an  immigrant  with  respect  to  it. 
This  definition  may  serve,  in  some  degree,  to  prevent  that  con 
founding  of  these  terms,  so  common  with  many. 

Texas,  Oregon,  California,  Deseret,  Nabraska,  and  all  of  the 
really  "  Far  West,"  attract  a  share  of  the  swarms  of  flying  popu 
lation  to  their  borders ;  but  it  consists  more  of  adventurers  than 


XV111  INTRODUCTION. 

of  such  as  are  seeking  permanent  homes  for  steady  business,  though 
not  wholly  so. 

Of  these  latter  it  is  not  my  intention  to  speak  further;  Illinois, 
Wisconsin,  and  Iowa  being  the  region  with  which  the  writer  is 
more  conversant,  and  to  which  it  is  designed  especially  to  devote 
these  pages. 

It  is  well  known  to  most  of  the  country,  east  and  west,  that  the 
snags,  bars,  sawyers,  and  other  obstructions  in  the  large  rivers ; 
and  rocks,  reefs,  lack  of  harbors,  light-houses,  dredge-work,  etc., 
along  the  great  lakes,  had  become  crying  and  disastrous  evils, 
causing  innumerable  frightful  and  destructive  calamities,  to  both 
persons  and  shipping,  navigating  these  waters.  And  good  men  be 
gan  to  realize  seriously  that  some  efficient  measures  must  be  speed 
ily  adopted  by  the  nation  and  government  for  safety  and  relief. 

Accordingly,  in  the  years  1846  and  1847,  a  movement  was 
Btarted  for  bringing  together  a  large  Mass  Meeting  of  the  nation, 
at  some  point,  to  deliberate  upon  some  measures,  and  disseminate 
intelligence  in  regard  to  these  affairs,  which  resulted  in  the  assem 
bling  c?f  an  immense  National  Convention  at  CHICAGO,  Illinois, 
in  the  first  week  of  July,  1847 ;  the  business  of  which  was  to  col 
lect  and  present  facts  and  arguments,  and  prepare  matter  and 
petitions  for  Congress  ;  and  otherwise  to  procure  the  speedy  im 
provements  required  along  these  important  waters  to  give  greater 
safety  and  facilities  to  the  extensive  commerce  that  floated  upon 
them. 

That  call  was  triumphantly  responded  to  in  one  of  the  most 
numerous,  intelligent,  and  enthusiastic  gatherings  that  ever  con 
vened  in  the  West,  or  any  part  of  our  country,  popularly  known 
as  the  great  Harbor  and  River  Convention;  where  were  met 
many  of  the  most  profound  statesmen  and  eloquent  orators  of  our 
nation. 

That  convention  is  an  important  era  in  the  destiny  of  the  West ; 
an  event  beneficial  both  for  the  general  earnest  interest  which  it 
excited,  and  the  arguments  that  it  promulgated  in  favor  of  a 
liberal  policy  of  Improvements  by  the  Government,  and  for  bring 
ing  together  thousands  of  enterprising  witnesses,  from  the  East 
and  South,  to  behold  the  fresh  and  blooming  WEST,  to  examine  its 
resources — persons  who,  but  for  this  occasion,  would  scarcely 
have  ventured  to  its  borders,  where  they  might  admiringly  look 
upon  its  rich  prospects  and  boundless  beauty.  The  writer,  then 
for  the  first  time  visited  the  states  of  Wisconsin  and  Illinois  ;  and 
notwithstanding  all  that  he  had  learned  of  this  fine  country,  from 


INTRODUCTION.  XIX 

enthusiastic  travelers,  he  felt  really  that  the  half  had  not  been 
told  him.  And  he  has  since  met  many  now  residents  in  those 
states,  who,  like  himself,  first  came  here  as  delegates  to  the  Har 
bor  and  River  Convention,  and  upon  seeing,  at  once  resolved  to 
locate  permanently.  And  in  Iowa,  too,  many  have  settled  in  the 
same  manner. 

To  adventurers  in  different  departments  of  business,  it  presents 
advantageous  openings  ;  to  the  rich  capitalist,  secure  and  profita 
ble  sources  of  investment ;  to  the  poor,  easy  opportunities  of  pro 
curing  pleasant  and  independent  homes,  with  comfortable  compe 
tence  ;  and  to  all  industrious,  honest  classes,  a  clear  field  and  a 
fair  strife ;  and  in  very  few  instances  have  those  who  were  even 
moderately  prudent  and  industrious,  been  disappointed  in  accom 
plishing  their  aims  and  expectations,  or  to  do  much  better  than 
they  would  have  done,  with  the  same  means  and  effort,  at  the 
place  from  which  they  moved. 

Hence,  those  who  originated  and  carried  out  the  scheme  of  the 
great  Harbor  and  River  Convention  have  done  good  service  to  the 
country,  which  will  long  be  joyfully  remembered,  as  well  by  the 
early  pioneer  as  the  more  recent  settlers. 

In  a  communication  to  the  J\T.  Y.  Tribune,  HORACE  GREELEY, 
after  speaking  of  the  crowded  state  of  the  hotels  on  this  occasion 
at  Chicago,  says  : 

"  But  the  citizens  threw  open  their  dwellings,  welcoming  stran 
gers  in  thousands  to  their  cordial  and  bounteous  hospitality." 
"  The  people  of  Chicago  have  earned  a  noble  reputation  for  hospi 
tality  and  public  spirit."  "  I  never  witnessed  any  thing  so  superb 
as  the  appearance  of  their  fire  companies,  with  their  engines  drawn 
by  led  horses,  tastefully  caparisoned.  Our  New  York  firemen 
must  try  again ;  they  have  certainly  been  outdone." 

On  the  close  of  the  Convention  he  thus  writes  : 

"  Thus  has  met,  deliberated,  harmonized,  acted,  and  separted, 
one  of  the  most  important  and  interesting  conventions  ever  held 
in  this  or  any  country.  It  was  truly  characterized  as  a  Congress 
of  Freemen,  destitute,  indeed,  of  pay  and  mileage,  but  in  all  else 
inferior  to  no  deliberative  body  which  has  assembled  in  twenty 
years.  Can  we  doubt  that  its  effects  will  be  most  beneficial  and 
enduring  ?" 

In  calculating  the  growth  of  New  York  and  Chicago,  he  writes, 
July  19,  1847: 

"  Rapid  as  the  growth  of  Chicago  has  been,  large  as  it  now  is, 
whoever  proceeds  westward  and  southward  across  the  prairies,  and 


XX  INTRODUCTION. 

notes  the  unequaled  capacities  of  the  soil,  its  universal  fertility, 
its  susceptibility  of  easy  culture,  and  the  rapidity  of  its  transform 
ation,  from  a  waste  to  a  garden,  can  hardly  doubt  that  New 
York  in  1800  will  be  surpassed  in  business  and  population  by  Chi 
cago  of  1900.  There  is  not  a  century's  difference  betAveen  the  two 
in  aught  but  origin.  The  spacious  Illinois  Canal  will  soon  add 
immensely  to  the  trade  of  this  Northern  Emporium ;  but  a  railroad 
to  Galena  must  soon  follow,  and  will  prove  even  more  beneficial 
and  remunerating." 

The  Canal  is  in  full  operation,  and  also  between  fifty  and  sixty 
miles  of  the  Galena  Railroad. 

From  this  period,  particularly,  then,  is  to  be  dated  the  commence 
ment  of  that  rush  of  immigration  which  has  so  rapidly  peopled  the 
states  west  of  the  Lakes ;  and  which  still  continues,  and  long  must 
continue,  to  pour  a  tide  of  population  into  that  vigorous,  progressing 
region.  For  the  convenience  of  such,  is  this  little  book  thrown  out 
upon  the  public  for  its  approbation ;  and  while  the  writer  is  well  ac 
quainted  and  well  satisfied  with  the  West,  he  confidently  recommends 
all  who  are  not  satisfied  with  their  situation  in  the  Old  States,  to 
remove  and  settle  in  the  New  Ones  ;  where  every  thing  is  fresh  and 
improving,  not  sinking  under  moss-covered  dilapidation,  but  where 
the  very  appearances  of  all  around  are  luxuriant  and  beautiful, 
affording  new  hopes,  new  energy,  and  new  successes. 

Here  are  peculiarly  promising  inducements  to  thousands  of  those 
ingenious,  energetic,  and  laborious  young  mechanics,  who  over- 
throng  Eastern  cities,  to  drive  their  trades,  or  engnge  in  farming, 
or  both,  as  may  best  suit  their  inclinations  and  circumstances. 
Thus,  all  will  be  benefited — those  who  go,  by  finding  new  and  en 
larged  fields  for  operation,  and  those  who  stay,  by  having  steady 
work  and  less  competition. 

New  towns  are  springing  up  on  every  hand,  and  rapidly  grow 
ing  ;  farmers  are  numerously  settling  down  in  snug  and  sociable 
neighborhoods ;  and  they  must  have  various  kinds  of  mechanic 
work,  for  which  they  will  make  sure  pay  at  fair  prices.  Then  in 
the  young  villages  printers  are  wanted,  with  their  world-moving 
implements — Press  and  Types — to  bring  them  the  news  and  adver 
tise  their  operations.  Then  let  a  portion  of  you,  in  the  several 
branches,  "pack  your  kits,"  and  with  resolute  hearts  and  active 
hands,  remove  to  the  large  and  new  scenes  of  enterprise,  and  be 
sure  success  and  happiness  will  reward.your  efforts. 

Even  though  you  are  mechanics,  it  is  well  to  buy  a  small  farm, 
as  soon  as  you  conveniently  can,  that  you  may  have  a  sure  and  in- 


INTRODUCTION.  XXI 

dependent  footing  on  terra  firma  ;  which  will  afford  you  a  profitable 
opportunity  to  devote  your  labor ,  should  you  not  be  fully  employ 
ed  all  the  time  in  your  trade.  In  this  way  the  toiler  may  receive 
a  just  share  of  the  products  and  profits  of  his  labor ;  and  capital 
will  not  swallow  up  the  "  lion's  half,"  as  is  too  often  the  case  in 
large  cities  and  densely  populated  districts,  where  most  of  the 
property  is  owned  by  a  few,  and  the  many  labor  for  them. 

Capital  and  labor  should  be  real  friends,  and  each  receive  its 
just  share  of  honors  and  profits  and  rights  ;  they  are  natural 
brothers,  designed  to  be  of  eminent  service  to  each  other,  and 
should  exist  and  strive  together,  hand  in  hand — then  both  will  be 
safer,  happier,  and  nobler. 

Much  more  than  formerly,  the  great  resources  of  the  West,  its 
rapid  increase  in  population,  wealth,  and  political  influence,  have 
now  become  subjects  of  lively  interest  and  daily  discussion, 
throughout  the  country  ;  and  the  Great  West  like  brilliant  visit 
ors  in  the  rich  boudoirs  of  the  fashionable  and  elegant,  is  now  the 
general  object  of  remark  and  admiration.  Its  location,  as  will 
be  seen  by  reference  to  the  map  of  the  United  States,  asserts  its 
important  position,  and  indicates  with  clear  certainty,  that  the 
voting  majorities,  and  the  direction  of  our  government,  will  soon 
be  with  the  West ;  the  "  Old  Thirteen"  possessing  only  about  one 
fifth  the  area  of  territory  that  the  New  States  and  Territories 
embrace. 

In  this  connection,  the  following  remarks  of  Judge  DOUGLAS, 
in  his  address  before  the  late  Agricultural  Fair  at  Rochester, 
N.  Y.,  are  appropriate  : 

"  Those  regions  are  particularly  adapted  to  grazing.  They  are 
for  the  most  part  elevated,  dry,  and  healthy,  abounding  in  rich 
grasses  and  pure  water.  The  extent  of  country  to  which  I  refer, 
embraces  an  era  more  than  twice  that  of  the  original  thirteen 
States  of  the  Union,  and  is  destined  to  be  occupied  by  an  intel 
ligent,  industrious,  and  energetic  race  of  men,  not  inferior  in  any 
respect  to  those  who  inhabit  the  old  states.  Nature  has  designed 
it  for  the  habitation  of  an  agricultural  people." 

"  The  farms  of  Western  New  York  demanded  the  construction 
of  the  Erie  Canal,  and  the  farmers  of  the  Western  States  now  call 
for  its  enlargement.  As  the  Western  States  and  Territories  be 
come  settled,  and  agricultural  products  accumulate,  new  railroads 
and  canals  become  necessary  to  furnish  means  of  transportation 
to  the  seaboard.  The  West  is  desirgus  of  securing  every  avenue 
to  the  sea.  It  requires  the  navigation  of  the  Mississippi  and  of 


XX11  INTRODUCTION. 

the  St.  Lawrence,  the  canals  of  New  York,  Pennsylvania,  Ohio, 
Indiana,  and  Illinois,  and  all  the  railroads  now  constructed  or  in 
process  of  construction,  from  the  sea-coast  to  the  Mississippi  valley. 
And  all  these  facilities  will  yet  prove  insufficient  to  form  adequate 
outlets  for  the  constantly  accumulating  products  of  the  Western 
farmers.  New  lines  of  communication  will  be  called  into  exist 
ence,  and  it  is  doubtful  whether  the  capital  and  enterprise  of  the 
country  will  keep  pace  with  the  increased  demands  for  internal 
improvements." 

From  New  York  and  other  Atlantic  cities,  as  well  as  the  interior 
country,  there  are  numerous  quick  and  cheap  lines  of  travel  and 
transportation  westward ;  and  astonishingly  so,  when  viewed  in 
comparison  with  the  difficulties  that  had  to  be  encountered  by  the 
natives  of  New  England  when  they  early  began  to  settle  portions 
of  New  York  and  Ohio. 

In  those  early  days,  to  undertake  such  an  enterprise  was,  in 
fact,  taking  their  lives  in  their-,  hands,  as  it  were,  to  part  with 
friends  at  the  dear  old  homes,  with  blessings  and  sadness,  in  trem 
bling  apprehension  whether  they  should  ever  again  meet  in  time — 
to  set  off  on  the  long  and  perilous  journey,  to  Central  or  Western 
New  York,  in  quest  of  new  homes  and  fortunes ;  considered  then 
a  brave,  adventurous  undertaking;  and  by  the  more  staid  and 
cautious  ones,  it  was  pronounced  a  fool-hardy  project ;  a  tour, 
which  at  that  period  did,  indeed,  require  more  time,  hardships, 
and  deprivation,  than  is  now  suffered  in  a  trip  to  the  Missouri 
river. 

Some,  even,  with  extra  undaunted  enterprise,  ventured  far 
away  to  Ohio,  Michigan,  and  Indiana,  then  equal  to  a  trip  now  to 
Oregon  or  California,  and  was  entered  upon  with  as  much  deliber 
ate  preparations  as  are  the  long  journeys  at  the  present  time  to 
the  Pacific. 

Those  expeditions  were  performed  at  the  slow,  tedious  movements 
of  pack-horses  and  tardy  team- wagons,  through  Indian  trails,  or 
half-cut  roads.  Even  migration  from  Eastern  to  Western  New 
York,  at  that  period,  was  considered  by  many,  as  a  wild  and 
doubtful  undertaking. 

Upon  the  completion  of  the  Hudson  River  Railroad,  from  New 
York  to  Albany,  in  the  first  week  of  October,  1851,  the  JVew  York 
Daily  Times  publishes  the  following  bit  of  steamboat  history, 
which  is  not  inappropriate  here,  and  will  be  interesting  to  many : 

"  The  opening  of  the  Hudson  River  Railroad,  and  the  transit 
from  New  York  to  Albany  in  the  short  space  of  four  hours,  pre- 


INTRODUCTION. 


XX111 


sent  a  new  era  in  the  annals  of  travel.  The  steamboats  have 
reigned  supreme  over  the  noble  waters  of  the  Hudson  for  forty- 
.  four  years.  It  was  on  September  28,  1807,  that  FULTON'S  boat 
first  undertook  the  arduous  task  of  statedly  ascending  the  river  to 
the  capital,  for  the  transmission  of  passengers.  The  following  ad 
vertisement  was  discovered  yesterday  in  a  stray  copy  of  '  The 
American  Citizen'  a  weekly  paper  published  in  this  city,  and 
dated  October  5,  1807.  The  coincidence  of  the  times  and  seasons 
for  the  commencement  of  steam  navigation  and  of  steam  travel  by 
rail  on  the  river  is  striking.  And  the  contrast  of  the  time  and 
fare  table  with  that  now  used  on  the  railroad  is  quite  as  remark 
able  : 

"  '  The  Steamboat. — Being  thoroughly  repaired  and  arranged  for 
passengers,  with  a  private  dressing-room  for  ladies,  it  is  intended 
to  run  her  as  a  packet  between  New  York  and  Albany,  for  the  re 
mainder  of  the  season.  She  will  leave  New  York  exactly  at  9 
o'clock  in  the  morning  of  the  following  days,  and  always  perform 
her  voyage  in  from  30  to  36  hours. 


Monday  -  - 
Friday  -  -  - 
Wednesday  - 


Sep.  28 
Oct.  2 
Oct.  7 


Monday Oct.  12 

Friday Oct.  16 


The  charge  to  each  passenger  is  as  follows  : 

DOLLAKS.  TIME. 

To  Newburgh     -    -    -    -    • $3  -    -    -    -    14  hours. 

To  Poughkeepsie 4  ----17  hours. 

To  Esopus 41  ....    20  hours. 

To  Hudson 5  ....    30  hours. 

To  Albany 7  ....    36  hours. 

For  places  apply  to  Mr.  VANDERVOORT,  No.  48  Cortland- 
street,  at  the  corner  of  Greenwich-street.' 

"  It  was  then  the  steamboat.  No  other  floated  on  the  waters  of 
the  world ;  and  profoundly  did  the  good  folk  admire  at  the  courage 
of  those  who  ventured  to  trust  themselves  to  the  perilous  enterprise. 
Think  of  the  prodigious  advance  upon  previous  modes  of  convey 
ance,  when  the  trip  from  one  town  to  the  other  was  actually  ac 
complished  in  '  30  to  36  hours,'  instead  of  four  or  five  days,  as  the 
old  lumbering  stage-coach  or  tub-like  sloop  was  wont  to  have  it. 
There  were  who  had  great  faith  in  the  invention,  and  foresaw 
dimly  its  grand  results.  Witness  the  following  communication, 
which  appeared  in  The  Evening  Post  of  October  4,  1807  : 

"  *  Among  thousands  who  viewed  the  scene,  permit  a  spectator 
to  express  his  gratification  at  the  sight  this  morning  of  the  steam- 


XXIV  INTRODUCTION. 

boat  proceeding  on  her  trip  to  Albany  on  a  wind  and  swell  of  tide 
which  appeared  to  bid  defiance  to  every  attempt  to  perform  the 
voyage.  The  steamboat  appeared  to  glide  as  easy  and  rapidly  as 
though  it  were  calm,  and  the  machinery  was  not  in  the  least  im 
peded  by  the  waves  of  the  Hudson,  the  wheels  moving  with  their 
usual  velocity  and  effect. 

"  '  The  experiment  of  this  day  removes  every  doubt  hitherto 
entertained  of  the  practicability  of  the  steamboat  being  able  to 
woYk  in  rough  weather.  Without  being  over-sanguine,  we  may 
safely  assert  that  the  principles  of  this  important  discovery  will 
be  applied  to  the  improvement  of  packets  and  passage-boats,  which 
for  certainty,  safety,  expedition,  and  accommodation,  will  far  sur 
pass  any  thing  hitherto  attempted.  The  invention  is  highly  hon 
orable  to  Mr.  Fulton,  and  reflects  infinite  credit  on  the  genius  of 
our  country.  NEW  YORK.' 

"  Time  has  justified  the  vision  of  this  seer,  and  gone  infinitely 
further  than  the  promise.  Could  the  veil  of  the  'to  come'  have 
been  lifted  before  the  eyes  of  the  prophet,  and  the  log-book  of  the 
Baltic,  or  the  time-table  of  a  railway  train  been  presented  to  him, 
how  inconceivable  must  have  been  his  astonishment.  How  short 
the  time  it  takes  now-a-days  to  work  wonders  !" 

But  the  original  stock,  from  which  sprang  these  various  adven 
turers,  was  of  the  right  stamp  :  The  PURITAN  was  that  noble 
tree,  hardy  and  vigorous,  which  had  thus  spread,  and  still  is 
spreading,  its  roots  and  branches  far  and  wide;  knowing  no  nar 
rower  bounds  to  their  achievements  than,  that  the  project  is  RIGHT 
and  DESIRABLE;  this  fairly  settled,  it  must  be  accomplished; 
danger,  obstacles,  privations,  enter  not  into  the  account,  until  the 
enterprise  is  commenced ;  and  then  only  to  calculate  how  they 
may  be  best  removed  or  surmounted.  This  was  the  original  Pu 
ritan  in  his  transit  and  settlement  to  this  continent,  and  after 
ward  to  many  states  of  the  Union.  And  in  those  original  archi 
tects  of  this  great  nation,  whom  the  "  May  Flower"  bore  to  Ply 
mouth  Rock,  we  have  an  example  of  glorious  daring  and  marvel 
ous  accomplishment — in  principle  and  project — surpassing  any 
the  world  ever  saw,  or  soon  again  will  witness — worthy  fathers 
of  an  enterprising  progeny  who  have  commenced  peopling  the 
West. 

"  Know  ye  the  land  where  a  royal  oppressor 

Bade  the  burghers  and  husbandmen  bow  to  his  will  ; 
But  they  fought  the  good  fight,  under  God,  the  Redressor, 
And  the  heart  of  Humanity  beats  to  it  still  I 


INTRODUCTION.  XXV 

Ww- 

Where  lakes,  plains,  and  mountains,  inspiring  or  solemn, 
Keep  their  tales  of  that  strife,  and  its  monuments  be 

The  Statue,  the  Tablet,  the  Hall,  and  the  Column, 
But,  best  and  most  lasting,  the  souls  of  the  free  !"— WHITTIER. 

After  the  Erie  Canal  was  built — the  glorious  father  of  transit 
improvements  in  our  country — the  great  financier  that  has  paid 
and  made  the  internal  improvements  of  the  Empire  State — a  differ 
ent  state  of  things  exists ;  by  even  that  line  alone — connecting  the 
Hudson,  the  Ocean,  with  the  Lakes,  and  before  the  advent  of  rail 
roads — transportation  of  persons  and  property  was  comparatively 
easy,  cheap,  and  quick;  the  speed  and  cheapness  with  which  flour, 
pork,  and  other  articles  were  carried  from  Buffalo  and  Rochester 
to  Albany  and  New  York,  and  merchandize  brought  back,  were 
matter  of  delighted  marvel  to  thousands,  even  those  who  had  been 
most  sanguinely  anticipating  the  completion  and  operations  of  that 
extraordinary  work — an  artificial  water-passage,  three  hundred 
and  sixty  miles,  from  Ocean  to  Lake ! 

And  well  may  the  people  of  the  Empire  State,  of  the  Western 
States,  feel  lively  respect  for  the  great  minds  who  projected  and 
stuck  by  it  to  the  day  of  its  completion.  They  are  held  in  honor 
as  public  benefactors,  not  only  for  its  beneficial  effects  immediately 
on  the  line  and  in  the  state,  but  for  the  general  spirit  of  enter 
prise-,  and  far-reaching  confidence  in  magnificent  improvements 
which  it  has  excited  and  fostered ;  this  is  the  great  benefit  of  the 
construction  of  the  Erie  Canal — the  will  and  confidence  which  it 
has  inspired  throughout  tlie  nation  in  such  enterprises. 

Soon,  however,  the  universal  Yankee  nation  began  to  feel  that 
the  five-mile-an-hour  gait  of  canal  was  too  slow,  they  should  not 
be  able  to  get  on  in  the  world  at  such  a  pace ;  they  must  be  shot 
ahead  with  steam ;  they  must  have  Railroads. 

And  Railroads  we  have  ;  the  ears  are  found  dashing  and  smoking 
through  the  country  in  every  direction ;  so  that  we  now  have  rail 
road,  steamboat,  and  canal  packets  between  the  Atlantic  and 
Great  Lakes.  Emigrants  and  travelers  will  make  their  own  choice 
among  these  several  conveyances  from  the  Eastern  cities  to  Dun 
kirk  and  Buffalo  ;  where  again  they  can  take  safe  and  pleasant 
boats  for  the  Western  States. 

There  is  steamboat  communication  all  of  the  way,  and  railroad 
part  of  it,  from  Lake  Erie  to  Wisconsin,  Illinois,  Iowa,  and  Minne 
sota.  Passenger  and  freight  carriage  is  done  very  cheap  and  with 
very  little  delay ;  affording  speedy  returns  and  receipts  for  the 
sale  of  their  produce. 
3 


XXVI  INTRODUCTION. 

And  tliis  fact  shows  that  the  rich,  fertile  lands  of  the  West,  are 
nearly  if  not  quite  as  valuable,  in  truth,  as  those  east  of  the 
Lakes — the  present  facilities  for  transport  and  conveyance  to  the 
seaboard  markets  being  so  favorable  that  the  Western  farmer  will 
realize  about  the  same  profit,  one  year  with  another,  from  his  land 
per  acre,  as  is  obtained  at  the  East ;  even  estimating  the  lands  of 
both  regions  at  the  same  price ;  but  when  we  consider  that  the 
price  of  the  lands  East  is  five,  ten,  or  fifteen  times  higher  than  at 
the  West,  the  ratio  of  profits  is  far  greater  in  the  New  States ;  be 
cause  there,  the  same  amount  of  gam  is  derived  from  much  less 
capital.  This  consideration  is  worth  looking  at  a  moment. 

Similar  was  the  effect  produced  on  the  relative  value  of  lands 
in  Eastern  and  Western  New  York,  by  the  opening  of  transporta 
tion  through  the  Erie  Canal ;  those  West  being  of  comparatively 
small  value  until  the  market  facilities  were  opened ;  but  since  that 
time,  they  have  risen  to  nearly  or  quite  equal  price,  acre  for  acre ; 
those  on  the  Genesee  and  Tonawanda,  with  those  on  the  Hudson 
and  Mohawk  rivers. 

To  give  a  more  distinct  idea  of  the  growth  of  Western  New 
York,  and  the  favorable  effects  of  increased  market  facilities,  inci 
dent  upon  great  internal  improvements,  I  copy  some  brief  extracts 
from  a  valuable  work,  entitled  "  Rochester,  and  Western  New 
York" — highly  useful  as  a  book  of  reference — published  in  1838, 
by  HENRY  O'RIELLY,  Esq.  ;  than  whom,  no  one  could  well  be 
found  better  qualified  for  the  task;  who,  to  a  largely  observing 
and  enterprising  mind,  added  long  familiar  acquaintance  with  the 
locations  of  which  he  wrote.  Mr.  O'Rielly  became  a  resident  of 
Rochester  when  it  was  but  an  embryo  village — he  early  commenced 
the  publication  of  a  weekly  newspaper  there;  and  soon  after 
started,  in  that  place,  the  first  daily  paper  printed  west  of  the 
Hudson  river.  He  continued  in  the  editorial  chair,  at  that  city, 
some  eighteen  or  twenty  years ;  and  held,  at  different  times,  im 
portant  city  offices,  and  several  appointments  under  the  General 
Government.  He  was  also  among  the  first  to  suggest  and  ablest 
to  advocate  several  important  measures  of  state  policy;  as  the 
enlargement  of  the  Erie  Canal ;  the  formation  of  the  new  Consti 
tution  ;  and  the  construction  of  railroads  and  telegraphs ;  while 
of  the  latter,  his  enterprise  has  e  -.tended  lines  through  the  AVest- 
ern  and  Southern  States,  far  more  extensively  than  has  been  done 
by  any  other  person.  In  his  book,  Mr.  O'Rielly  says  : 

"  The  suddenness  of  its  rise,  the  energy  of  its  population,  the 
excellence  of  its  institutions,  the  whole  character  of  its  prosperity, 


INTRODUCTION.  XXV11 

render  ROCHESTER  prominent  among  the  cities  that  have  recently 
sprung  into  existence  throughout  a  land  notable  for  extraordinary 
intellectual  and  physical  advancement." 

"  In  expressing  astonishment  at  the  career  of  Rochester,  DE 
WITT  CLINTON  remarked  shortly  before  his  death,  that  when  he 
passed  the  Genesee  river  on  a  tour  with  other  commissioners  for  ex 
ploring  the  route  of  the  Erie  Canal,  in  1810,  there  was  not  a 
house  where  Rochester  now  stands!  In  1812  there  were  but  two 
frame  dwellings  here,  small  and  rude  enough — one  of  which  yet 
[1838]  remaining  to  remind  us  of  the  change  since  the  period  when 
the  occupants  of  those  shanties  had  to  contend  against  wild  beasts 
for  the  scanty  crop  of  corn  first  raised  on  a  tract  now  in  the  heart 
of  the  city." 

"  It  was  not  till  the  year  1812  that  the  '  Hundred  Jlcre  Tract' 
was  planned  as  the  nucleus  of  a  settlement  under  the  name  of 
Rochester,  after  the  senior  proprietor.  This  tract  was  a  '  mill 
lot,'  bestowed  by  Phelps  and  Gorham  -on  a  semi-savage,  called 
'  Indian  Allen,'  as  a  bonus  for  building  mills  to  grind  corn  and  saw 
boards  for  the  new  settlers  in  this  region  at  that  time.  The  mills 
decayed  as  the  business  of  the  country  was  insufficient  to  support 
them.  Allen  sold  the  property  to  Sir  William  Pultney,  whose 
estate  then  included  a  large  section  of  the  '  Genesee  country.'  It 
is  but  thirty-six  years  since  the  tract  was  thus  owned  by  a  British 
baronet.  The  sale  to  Rochester,  Fitzhugh,  and  Carroll,  took  place 
in  1802,  at  the  rate  of  $17.50  per  acre,  or  $1,750  for  the  lot  [hun 
dred  acre  tracts]  with  all  its  betterments." 

Some  of  the  land  on  the  east  side  of  the  Genessee  river  in 
Rochester  (the  hundred  acre  tract  being  on  the  west  side)  was 
sold  to  Phelps  and  Gorham,  in  1790,  for  eighteen  pence  per  acre.'* 

Now  (1851)  Rochester  is  an  important  city  of  over  40,000  popu 
lation,  and  many  of  its  lots  are  worth  from  $100  to  $500  per  foot. 
Mr.  O'Rielly  further  remarks  : 

"  The  immense  facilities  for  trade  and  intercourse  furnished  to 
Rochester  [and  Western  New  York]  by  canals  and  railroads,  and 
the  benefits  flowing  from  the  Genesee  river  and  Lake  Ontario  may 
be  estimated  by  any  one  who  is  capable  of  comprehending  the 
range  of  improvements  now  in  progress,  as  well  as  that  already 
completed." 

Speaking  of  New  Englanders,  he  pays  the  following  well-merited 
tribute  to  their  noble  character  : 

"  Those  who  properly  appreciate  the  New  England  character,  as 
exemplified  by  the  Pilgrim  Champions  of  Human  Rights,  and  by 


XXV111  INTRODUCTION. 

their  lineage  from  the  first  settlement  down  to  the  present  period, 
may  view  with  interest  the  living  monument  of  intelligent  enter 
prise  which  has  sprung  into  existence  through  the  transforming 
influence  of  Yankee  colonists  in  the  Western  Wilderness.  '  New 
England  ! — rich  in  intellect,  though  rude  in  soil — the  intelligence 
and  enterprise  of  her  sons  in  a  fertile  land  have  largely  aided  in 
rendering  the  Genesee  country  the  garden  of  this  state.'  Such 
were  among  the  sentiments  with  which  a  statesman  of  Eastern 
origin  was  greeted  by  the  people  of  llochester.  The  city  itself  is  a 
worthy  monument  of  the  glorious  truth — a  truth  applicable  to  the 
social  condition,  perhaps,  as  well  as  the  physical  improvements  of 
this  region." 

Upon  the  growth  of  Rochester  Mr.  O'Rielly  very  justly  exults, 
and  challenges  comparison,  in  this  wise  : 

"  With  all  the  rage  for  speculation  Westward — with  all  the  new 
villages  and  cities  that  have  been  laid  out  through  the  '  Far  West' 
during  the  last  twenty  years,  where,  in  what  place,  through  all 
that  broad  and  fertile  region,  can  there  be  shown  any  town  which 
has  surpassed  ROCHESTER  in  the  permanent  increase  of  popula 
tion,  wealth,  and  business." 

The  writer  of  this  little  book  was  born  in  the  "  Genesee  coun 
try,"  passed  his  childhood  there;  then  lived  years  in  Rochester 
to  "  serve  his  'prenticeship ;"  and  afterward  settled  in  the  West ; 
so  that  he  will  not  yield  to  Mr.  O'Rielly,  even,  in  feelings  of  pride 
and  partiality  for  Western  New  York.  But  at  this  date,  he  can 
truthfully  record  the  statistics  of  a  city  which  has  proudly  out 
stripped  Rochester  in  the  growth  of  its  business  and  population. 

CHICAGO  has  vastly  surpassed  that  city.  In  1838,  when  Chi 
cago  commenced — as  the  small  nucleus  of  an  immense  city — with 
half  a  hundred  buildings  and  less  than  three  hundred  population, 
Rochester  was  already  a  city  of  some  12,000,  the  former  thus  only 
about  one  thirty-sixth  the  size  of  the  latter ;  and  now,  in  some 
eighteen  years  growth,  Chicago  has  advanced  with  such  unequaled 
strides,  that  the  "  Garden  City"  contains  above  30,000,  or  over 
three  fourths  as  much  population  as  the  "  Flour  City." 

And  further  :  Mr.  LAPHAM,  in  his  useful  book  on  Wisconsin, 
replies  to  Mr.  O'Rielly,  in  favor  of  MILWAUKEE,  as  follows  : 

"  We  may  answer  the  question  by  making  a  little  comparison. 

"Rochester  was  laid  out  in  1812,  and  in  1816,  or  four  years,  the 
population  was  three  hundred  and  thirty-one.  In  1820,  or  eight 
years,  the  population  was  fifteen  hundred. 

"  Milwaukee  was  laid  out  in  1835,  and  in  1839,  or  four  years, 


INTRODUCTION.  XXIX 

the  population  was  fifteen  hundred — or  as  much  increase  in  four 
years,  as  Rochester  had  in  eight.  But  in  1843,  or  eight  years,  the 
population  of  Milwaukee  was  over  six  thousand,  or  four  times  as 
much  as  Rochester  during  the  same  period." 

And  both  Chicago  and  Milwaukee  are  beautifully  lighted  with 
gas,  whose  manufactories  are  neat  and  permanent. 

Thus  the  West  most  clearly  and  triumphantly  bears  away  the 
palm  for  rapid  growth ;  but  she  had  a  proud  example,  to  be  sure, 
in  the  progress  of  Western  and  Central  New  York. 

Many  counties  in  the  Western  States  have  already  established 
Agricultural  and  Horticultural  Societies",  annually  holding  their 
Fairs  and  Cattle  Shows.  Wisconsin  has  also  instituted  a  State 
Agricultural  Society,  which  holds  its  first  regular  Meeting  and 
Fair  this  Autumn. 

And  here,  before  entering  upon  the  general  matter  of  this  vol 
ume,  several  hints,  of  great  importance  to  emigrants,  suggest 
themselves  to  me.  Persons  moving  West,  who  can  do  so,  will  find 
it  much  to  their  advantage  to  take  with  them  a  good  supply  of  the 
necessary  Materials  and  Stocks  for  raising  fine  fruits ;  such  as 
seedlings,  choice  grafts,  scions,  buds,  etc.,  of  all  kinds,  from  grapes, 
raspberries,  -gooseberries,  and  apricots,  up  to  peaches,  apples, 
pears,  etc.  They  will  find  it  not  only  a  pleasure,  but  also  profit 
able  ;  as  all  such  things  once  started  in  the  West,  are  in  constant 
demand  at  good  prices ;  while  all  varieties  of  fruit  always  com 
mand  ready  sale. 

Seedling  chestnut  trees,  filberts,  and  some  other  kinds,  not  in 
digenous  to  the  States  of  Illinois,  Wisconsin,  and  Iowa,  are  much 
wanted,  and  will  find  ready  sale,  in  case  you  should  take  with 
you  more  than  should  be  needed  on  yoxir  own  premises.  Locust 
seed  is  also  useful  and  much  needed  there  ;  as  that  specie  of  tree 
(the  thorn  locust  is  preferable)  grows  very  rapidly  and  makes  ex 
cellent  fencing  stuifs ;  besides  being  highly  ornamental  and  com 
fortable,  both  to  residences  and  to  stock,  on  wide  prairie  farms. 
I  have  seen  it  grow  to  trees  of  four  to  six  inches  in  diameter,  in 
from  three  to  five  years,  from  the  time  of  planting  the  seed,  on 
those  rank  prairie-soils.  Various  thorn  trees,  or  seeds,  will  be 
found  useful  where  the  emigrant  can  take  them  with  him ;  the 
buck  and  the  branching  white  varieties  being  generally  preferred. 
The  Osage  orange  is  much  used,  and  generally  to  advantage,  but 
that  is  procured  from  an  opposite  direction  of  country — west  of 
the  Mississippi,  and  can  be  bought  at  Cincinnati,  St.  Louis,  or 
Chicago. 


XXX  INTRODUCTION. 

And  particularly  will  those  moving  West  find  it  desirable  and 
profitable  to  take  with  them  as  much  improved  blood  stock, 
sheep,  hogs,  and  poultry  as  they  can;  for  no  region  will  more 
richly  remunerate  all  expense  and  pains  expended  in  such  mat 
ters,  than  will  the  Prairie  Country ;  where  those  things  have  been 
too  much  neglected. 

Far  better  is  it  for  farmers  and  business  men,  going  West,  to 
take  with  them  these  articles,  than  to  take  so  much  furniture  as 
many  do,  and  so  many  farming  utensils  ;  these  latter  are  useful, 
to  be  sure,  but  then,  better  ones  can  be  procured  at  the  factories 
in  Western  towns  than  are  generally  taken  there  from  the  East ; 
for  it  is  true  that  better  plows,  and  harvesting  and  thrashing  ma 
chines,  are  made  there  than  in  any  other  portion  of  our  country, 
and  better  adapted  to  that  section;  therefore,  it  is  decidedly  bet 
ter  to  transport  stock  and  fruit  than  farming  utensils. 

With  a  soil  and  pasturage  unsurpassed  on  this  continent ;  and  a 
climate  of  great  variety  and  highly  favorable,  the  Western  States 
ought  to  surpass  their  older  neighbors,  at  the  East,  in  stock-rais 
ing  ;  and  they  can  do  it  with  proper  effort — care  in  selecting  good 
breeds — and  by  judicious  crossing,  and  the  high  feeding  so  attain 
able  on  the  prairies. 

Whether  we  consider  stock-raising,  grain-growing,  or  fruit-cul 
ture,  there  is  nowhere  combined  more  favorable  circumstances, 
than  in  the  region  we  are  speaking  of,  for  the  agriculturist  to 
"  cause  two  blades  of  grass  to  grow,  where  but  one  grew  before ;" 
and  thereby  become  the  best  "  benefactor  of  mankind ;"  and  this 
will  science  and  industry  accomplish. 


WESTERN  PORTRAITURE. 


TRIP  TO  THE  UPPER  LAKES. 

"  KNOW  ye  the  land  where  the  Forest  and  Prairie 

Spread  broadest  away  by  the  Cataract's  fall ! 
Where  the  harvests  of  earth  the  most  plenteously  vary, 

And  the  children  that  reap  them  are  happiest  of  all ; 
Where  the  long  rolling  rivers  go  mightily  trending, 

With  wealth  on  their  billows,  thro'  many  a  clime : 
Where  the  lakes,  'mid  their  woodlands,  like  seas  are  extending, 

And  the  mountains  rise  lone  in  the  center  sublime  1" — WHITTIER. 

AT  BUFFALO,  on  Lake  Erie,  in  the  State  of  New  York,  we 
will  take  cabin  or  steerage  passage — just  as  we  feel  able  or 
inclined — both  are  comfortable,  from  the  manner  steam 
boats  are  now  constructed  and  arranged ;  the  price  of  the 
former  is  $6  to  $8,  and  the  latter  $2  to  $4,  to  any  of  the 
towns  on  Lake  Michigan,  in  Wisconsin  and  Illinois, 

However,  if  they  desire,  and  wish  to  save  one  or  two 
days'  time,  persons  can  take  steamboat  to  Monroe,  Toledo, 
or  Detroit ;  then  the  railroad  across  the  State  of  Michigan, 
to  Michigan  City,  in  Indiana,  then  steamboat  again  to  Chi 
cago,  and  other  towns  on  the  western  shore  of  Lake  Michi 
gan.  Though  performed  in  quicker  time,  the  fare  is  higher. 
But  for  a  view  of  the  fine  scenery,  we  now  will  take  steam 
boat  for  the  trip  round  the  Upper  Lakes,  particularly  as  we 
are  not  in  a  great  hurry. 

Soon  our  splendid  steamer  is  on  a  start  for  a  trip  of 
some  ten  to  twelve  hundred  miles  through  the  Great  Lakes, 
which  is  performed  in  from  three  to  five  days,  the  weather 


32  WESTERN    PORTRAITURE. 

more  favorable  at  some  times  than  others,  while  some  of 
the  boats  make  better  speed  than  others. 

After  passing  through  Lake  Erie,  touching  on  our  way 
the  beautiful  and  flourishing  towns  of  Erie,  Cleveland,  and 
Detroit,  besides  many  other  smaller  ones,  we  run  up 
Detroit  river,  St.  Clair  lake,  and  a  deep  narrow  river  of 
the  same  name,  on  whose  banks  are  several  small  towns, 
engaged  principally  in  the  lumber  and  fish  trade ;  and  soon 
we  reach  the  foot  of  Lake  Huron,  with  shores  here,  of  a 
dry  sandy  soil,  which  present  two  handsome  tables,  one 
rising  a  few  feet  above  the  other,  on  which  is  situated  the 
delightful  little  town  of  Port  Huron,  with  the  elegant 
evergreens  sprinkled  all  through  it,  and  nearly  covering 
the  ground,  with  a  thick  grove  in  the  rear.  A  little  farther 
on  is  the  U.  S.  Station  called  Fort  Gratiot,  which,  with  its 
white  buildings  and  pickets  shining  in  the  midst  of  the 
straight  green  pines,  presents  any  thing  but  the  grim- 
visaged  appearance  of  war. 

On  the  opposite  or  northern  side  of  the  narrow  river  is 
the  Canada  shore ;  and  it  is  a  fact  very  generally  noticeable, 
that  almost  the  entire  distance  from  the  head  of  Lake  Erie 
to  the  foot  of  Lake  Huron,  the  Canada  shore  is  the  most 
beautiful,  and  presents  a  more  favorable  appearance  for 
agriculture  and  business  generally  than  the  other  side ;  and 
yet  the  tillage,  the  towns,  the  business,  every  thing  on  the 
States'  side  is  incomparably  ahead  of  that  displayed  upon 
the  other.  For  the  reason,  every  one  can  exercise  his 
own  philosophy  or  judgment — we  simply  give  the  fact. 

We  make  but  a  short  stop  here,  and  our  steamer  is  off 
again  to  dash  her  way  through  that  broad,  deep,  bold  sheet, 
Lake  Huron,  whose  shores,  if  the  weather  be  favorable,  and 
allow  us  to  be  outside,  will  present  to  our  view  some  sur 
passingly  wild  and  romantic  scenery,  in  the  mingled  fea 
tures  which  compose  its  borders — huge  pine  forests  skirting 
and  fringing  the  rugged,  sand-drifted  banks,  in  many  in- 


LAKE    HURON MACKINAW.  33 

stances  the  bald  hills  rearing  their  yellow  summits  high 
among  the  tall  trees,  blending  their  forms  and  colors  in 
fantastic  beauty,  presenting  to  fancy's  eye  the  dreamy  out 
lines  of  birds,  animals,  and  ships — as  the  "mystic  ship," 
the  "sleeping  bear,"  the  "flapping  eagle,"  and  various 
others  as  curious  and  suggestive  of  mysterious  legendary, 
as  the  grotesque  formations  along  the  Hudson. 

But  if  Old  Boreas  happen  to  be  blowing  some  of  his 
rude  blasts  of  shivering  breath,  piping  all  hands  above, 
there'll  be  cold  comfort  to  sight-seers,  and  lively  times 
throughout  the  vessel,  until  we  reach  MACKINAW,  and 
under  the  lee  of  its  lofty  rock  towers  and  wooded  shores 
obtain  secure  and  tranquil  moorings. 

But  before  reaching  the  harbor,  and  upon  entering  the 
celebrated  Straits,  we  shall  pass  two  large  and  picturesque 
islands,  of  wild  and  rugged  aspect — timbered  and  rocky ; 
the  largest  is  Bois  Blanc,  and  the  other  Drummond  island. 

Then  we  soon  reach  Mackinaw  island,  on  which  is  situ 
ated  the  town  and  old  fort  of  the  same  name.  Here  was 
established  one  of  the  earliest  posts  of  French  Jesuits,  in 
their  adventurous  explorations  about  the  middle  of  the 
17th  century ;  some  ambitious  for  discovery,  and  others 
in  quest  of  fortunes  by  trading  with  Indians  for  their  furs. 

About  the  close  of  the  last  war,  Lieut.  DANIEL  CURTISS, 
with  a  company  of  soldiers,  was  stationed  at  this  fort, 
where,  some  years  after,  his  wife  was  killed  by  a  flash  of 
lightning,  while  sitting  at  her  window  engaged  on  a  piece 
of  embroidery.  He  afterward  died  at  Fort  Howard,  near 
Green  Bay. 

Here  is  the  deep,  narrow  channel  through  which  the 
waters  pass  from  Lake  Michigan  to  Huron ;  and  here  is 
seen  the  most  rugged  yet  picturesque  scenery  to  be  met  in 
our  whole  route,  and  surpassed  by  but  few  locations  in  any 
part  of  our  country.  Here  are  towering  ledges  of  pillared 
and  strata  rocks,  summit-crowned  with  everlasting  pines, 


34  WESTERN    PORTRAITURE. 

and  surrounded  with  deep,  clear  waters,  where  are  taken 
in  great  quantities  the  noted  Mackinaw  white  fish  and 
trout,  which  constitute  an  important  article  in  Western 
commerce. 

Mackinaw  is  becoming  every  year  more  and  more  a 
place  of  summer  resort,  principally  by  Southerners,  for 
health  and  pleasure ;  as  the  opportunities  for  hunting  and 
fishing  are  considerable.  With  pure  water  and  air,  and 
exciting  incentives  to  healthful  exercise,  it  cannot  well  fail 
to  meet  the  expectations  of  visitors,  and  effect  the  end  for 
which  they  go  to  that  place. 

The  permanent  population  is  composed  of  French,  In 
dians,  and  half-breeds,  with  a  few  business  men ;  besides 
the  officers  and  soldiers  stationed  in  the  U.  S.  Garrison  on 
the  hill  above.  The  articles  of  export  consist  almost  en 
tirely  of  lumber,  fish,  peltries,  and  Indian  fabrics ;  the  latter 
being  much  purchased  by  visitors  and  passengers,  while 
the  boats  make  their  short  stops  for  wood,  fish,  etc. 

What,  with  the  neat  white  buildings,  bastions,  fences, 
and  other  fixtures  of  the  fort,  as  they  stand  along  on 
elevated  terraces,  and  the  winding  walks  ranged  around, 
one  above  another,  up  the  towering  banks  of  green  turf 
and  gray  rock ;  the  waving  forests  and  beetling  observa 
tory  still  rising  in  the  back  ground ;  with  the  busy  little 
village  under  the  bluffs  along  the  water's  edge,  and  the 
Indian  canoes  scattered  about  upturned  on  the  pebbly 
beach,  while  numerous  schooner  masts  and  steam  pipes 
stretch  up  from  the  harbor — altogether,  Mackinaw  exhibits 
some  of  the  most  charmingly  diversified  and  unique  views 
that  can  wrell  be  imagined,  particularly  as  seen  from  the 
boat  on  a  bright  day  when  riding  through  the  Straits.  On 
the  other  side  the  shores  and  peaks  present  more  of  a  bald 
sandy  appearance,  studded  with  scattering  clumps  of  pine 
trees,  and  small  shrubs  of  other  varieties. 

Yet,  above  all,  the  gorgeous  spectacle  of  sun-setting,  as 


GLORIOUS    SUNSETS.  35 

seen  at  this  place,  exceeds  every  thing  of  the  kind  that  I 
have  ever  beheld.  The  glorious  sun,  as  he  swings  down 
from  the  circling,  curving  strata  of  deep  red  and  blue 
clouds  in  the  west — piled  up  in  series  closer  and  darker 
along  the  lake's  horizon,  but  becoming  more  mellow  and 
dispersed  as  the  sight  stretches  farther  up  the  soft  ethereal 
vault  above — emblazons  the  rippled  surface  with  crimson 
and  molten  gold,  as  it  were  chased  in  brilliant  metals, 
while,  the  small  broken  ridges  of  serf  curl  along  with  a 
whiter  glow,  like  flowing  robes  studded  with  sparkling 
gems ;  investing  the  whole  scene  with  the  most  enchanting 
splendor.  And  at  such  times  may  be  seen,  through  the 
mellow  radiance,  vessels  standing  away  upon  this  glitter 
ing  mirror  beneath  the  blood-red  clouds,  stretched  one  over 
another  in  fervid  folds,  their  canvas  taking  the  hues  of 
the  surrounding  elements  throw  back  their  reflected  dupli 
cates  into  the  swelling  bosom  of  the  deep  ;  and,  with  more 
or  less  sail  set,  as  the  breeze  will  permit,  are  wafted  grace 
fully  along,  resembling  so  many  giant  birds  with  their 
glittering  wings  all  spread,  and  plumage  of  varied  hues — 
fabled  phenixes — -just  risen  from  the  flaming  depths,  as  if, 
with  their  own  fiery  wings  fanned  into  existence,  so  little 
do  they  res*emble  cumbrous  earth-forms.  And  at  these 
times,  too,  when  the  lakes  are  on  fire  with  the  gleaming 
sunbeams,  to  see  the  mighty  steamer  like  a  thing  of  life 
plowing  through  this  sheet  of  waving  crystals,  emitting 
clouds  of  smoke,  sparks  and  vapor,  gives  to  fancy  the  im 
pression  that  it  is  the  legitimate  voyager  of  these  prome 
thean  elements. 

To  the  enthusiastic  student  of  nature — be  he  pencil- 
artist,  poet,  or  philosopher — a  visit  here  is  above  pecuni 
ary  price.  Once  witnessing  these  scenes  wTill  furnish  the 
mind  with  more  matter  for  delighted  and  elevated  reflec 
tion,  than  scores  of  horse-races,  prize-fights,  and  circus- 
routs.  And  any  one  who  can  spare  time  and  money  for  a 


36  WESTERN    PORTRAITURE. 

trip  to  Mackinaw,  in  summer  or  autumn,  and  stay  long 
enough  at  least,  to  see  the  sun  rise  and  set,  should  do  so ; 
he  will  be  amply,  delightedly  compensated  for  all  his 
pains.  Kings  love  royal  robes  of  magnificence ;  but  all 
others  dwindle  into  tame  insignificance,  when  the  King  of 
Day  here  displays  the  splendid  vestments  of  his  morning 
and  evening  wardrobe.  Go  then,  and  see,  for  I  can  but 
faintly  portray,  the  brilliance  of  this  picture  gallery  of 
nature;  unsurpassed  even  by  Oriental  dreams  of  mystic 
enchantment  in  fairy  isles. 

Then  visit,  ye  lovers  of  pleasure  and  sight-seeing,  Lakes 
Huron  and  Michigan — bathe  in  their  waters,  hunt  among 
their  island  forests,  read  in  their  grottos,  where  fragrant 
boughs  are  wildly  interlaced  above  you,  and  you  may 
drink  deep  of  the  fullest  cup  of  rural  life  and  romance. 

"  The  silver  light,  with  quivering  glance, 
'     ^ '  Play'd  on  the  water's  clear  expanse  ; 

Each  purple  peak,  each  flinty  spire, 
Was  bathed  in  floods  of  living  fire. 


It  is  a  wild  and  strange  retreat, 
As  ever  was  trod  by  outlaw's  feet." 

The  following  lines  by  WILLIS  G.  CLARK,  .though  de 
scriptive  of  a  different  location,  express  enough  in  common 
with  this  place  to  render  them  an  appropriate  quotation 
here,  while  their  high-toned  genius  make  them  acceptable 
everywhere : 

"  Who  that  hath  stood,  where  summer  brightly  lay, 
On  some  broad  city,  by  a  spreading  bay, 
And  from  a  rural  hight  the  scene  surveyed, 
While  on  the  distant  strand  the  billows  play'd, 
But  felt  the  vital  spirit  of  the  scene, 

What  time  the  south-wind  stray'd  through  foliage  green, 
And  freshened  from  the  dancing  waves,  went  on, 
By  the  gay  groves,  and  fields,  and  gardens  won? 


When  the  tired  sea-bird  dips  his  wings  in  foam, 
And  hies  him  to  his  beetling,  eyry  home  ; 


BEAVER   ISLANDS FOX MANITOUS.  37 

When  sun-gilt  ships  are  parting  from  the  strand, 
And  glittering  streamers  by  the  breeze  are  fanned  ; 
When  the  wide  city's  domes  and  piles  aspire, 
And  rivers  broad  seemed  touch'd  with  golden  fire  ; 
Save  where  some  gliding  boat  their  luster  breaks, 
And  volumed  smoke  its  murky  tower  forsakes, 
And  surging  in  dark  masses,  soars  to  lie, 
And  stain  the  glory  of  the  up-lifted  sky  ; 
Oh,  who  at  such  a  scene  unmoved  hath  stood, 
And  gazed  on  town,  and  plain,  and  field,  and  flood, 
Nor  felt  that  life's  keen  spirit  lingered  there, 
Through  earth,  and  ocean,  and  the  genial  air  ?" 

Upon  passing  out  of  the  Straits,  on  the  left,  are  Beaver 
islands,  the  largest  of  which  has  become  somewhat  noted 
as  the  location  of  a  Mormon  town  or  colony,  who  are 
building  considerable,  making  other  improvements,  and 
doing  a  fair  amount  of  business;  though  evil-disposed 
persons,  it  appears,  have  been  inclined  to  harrass  them, 
for  some  reason  or  other.  The  soil  is  good,  the  timber 
excellent,  and  the  general  appearance  of  the  island  is  de 
lightful.  They  are  situated  at  the  mouth  of  Traverse 
Bay.  Other  small  timbered  tracts  called  the  Fox  islands 
are  located  near  by  them. 

SomewThat  farther  up  the  lake,  to  the  left  of  the  usual 
steamboat  course,  are  the  Manitou  islands,  two  romantic 
and  healthful  resorts,  where  fishing  and  hunting  may  be 
enjoyed  to  the  highest  zest  of  those  rural  sports;  the 
shores  and  forests  are  beautiful,  the  water  clear  and  cold, 
and  the  air  bracing ;  there  is  some  resort  to  these  bright 
pastoral  retreats  for  health,  pleasure,  and  business ;  and 
steamers  land  here  for  wood,  fish,  etc.  The  pleasure  of  a 
few  days'  rambles  here  will  richly  compensate  the  pleas 
ure-seeker  for  his  expense  and  pains. 

In  the  opposite  direction,  near  the  entrance  of  Green 
Bay,  are  the  Grand  Traverse  islands,  which  possess  many 
of  the  characteristics  of  the  other  islands  in  Lake  Michi 
gan  ;  any  of  which,  in  their  wild  and  picturesque  features, 
present  charms  that  well  reward  the  trouble  of  a  visit. 
4 


38  WESTERN     PORTRAITURE. 

•  These  islands  passed,  we  soon  reach  the  State  of  Wis 
consin.  After  running  along  off  the  coast  of  that  long, 
narrow  strip  or  promontory,  jutting  up  between  the  lake 
and  Green  Bay,  called  Door  County,  the  first  town  we 
reach  is — 

MANITOWOC,  county-seat  of  Manitowov  county.  It  is  a 
thriving  town  of  some  1,500  population,  having  a  fair  har 
bor  at  the  mouth  of  the  river,  wdth  a  pier  and  light 
house  ;  considerable  business  is  done  here,  and  numbers 
of  emigrants  land  every  year. 

The  county  contains  a  population  of  about  4,000.  The 
land  is  heavily  timbered,  generally,  with  pine,  oak,  maple, 
and  other  varieties ;  and  some  places  considerably  broken 
by  the  water-courses,  which  furnish  good  water-powers. 
The  soil  is  rich  and  deep,  mostly  a  heavy  clay,  with  fre 
quent  strips  of  sandy  loam.  The  lumber  trade  from  this 
region  is  extensive,  and  a  source  of  gain  to  the  inhabit 
ants.  Much  good  government  land  is  yet  for  sale  here  at 
$1.25  per  acre;  and  on  the  whole,  the  county  presents 
fair  inducements  to  the  farmer  and  mechanic  to  settle 
in  it. 

SHEBOYGAN  is  the  next  town,  as  we  proceed  south,  or 
up  the  lake,  some  thirty  miles ;  it  is  somewhat  ahead  of 
the  last  named  town  in  population  and  business,  but  much 
the  same  in  general  characteristics,  with  a  similar  kind  of 
business — lumber  and  fish ;  having  good  piers  and  other 
harbor  facilities,  which  must  enable  it  to  attain  considera 
ble  importance  in  commercial  operations. 

Sheboygan  county  contains  some  8,400  population,  and 
in  the  general  description  of  its  soil,  timber,  streams,  etc., 
resembles  the  last  named  county,  though  in  improvements 
it  is  more  advanced.  Emigration  to  this  county  is  con 
siderable  ;  but  still  there  is  plenty  of  land  to  be  bought 
at  government  prices.  Like  most  of  the  lake  counties, 
this  one  has  Plankroads  passing  through  it  toward  the 


OZAUKEE WASHINGTON    CO. MILWAUKEE.  39 

interior  of  the  state.  In  various  parts  of  these  counties 
there  are  settlements  of  industrious  Dutch  and  Norwegian 
immigrants,  who  are  making  worthy  progress  in  felling  the 
forests  and  tilling  the  soil. 

It  was  off  this  port  that,  a  few  years  ago,  the  terrible 
and  melancholy  catastrophe  of  the  burning  of  the  propel 
ler  Phoenix  happened;  in  which  over  one  hundred  and 
thirty  human  lives  were  destroyed,  swept  away  by  the 
flames  and  flood ;  and  among  them  those  two  interesting 
girls,  the  Hazletines,  perished,  and  even  in  sight  of  home, 
as  they  were  returning  after  a  year's  absence,  at  school  in 
Ohio — in  sight  of  their  father's  dwelling,  suddenly  and 
frightfully  cut  off  without  reaching  and  greeting  that 
anxious,  loved  home-circle ;  the  family  even  expecting 
them,  and  on  the  look-out,  were  compelled  to  witness  the 
vessel  and  its  inmates  go  down  with  the  flames  to  the 
deep. 

OZAUKEE  (formerly  Port  Washington)  lies  still  south 
some  thirty  miles;  it  is  the  county-seat  of  Washington 
county,  and  contains  a  population  of  near  2,000 ;  with  con 
venient  harbor  facilities ;  and  sustained  by  a  country  much 
the  same  in  soil,  timber,  inhabitants,  and  business  pur 
suits,  as  that  north  of  it ;  and  which  is  being  rapidly  set 
tled  up  by  the  tide  of  emigration,  and  by  them  industri 
ously  cultivated. 

Washington  county  contains  about  20,000  inhabitants, 
and  presents  many  fine  farms,  with  ample  room  for  many 
more.  Water-power  and  timber  are  abundant  here  ;  and 
much  government  land  yet  for  sale.  In  this,  as  in  the 
other  counties  north  of  it,  good  quarries  of  stone  are 
found,  both  for  building  and  lime. 

MILWAUKEE  is  the  next  place  reached ;  it  is  the  largest 
city  in  Wisconsin — being  the  Emporium  market-town  of 
that  state,  and  the  most  important  town  on  Lake  Michi 
gan,  except  CHICAGO,  which  is  ninety  miles  farther  south. 


40  WESTERN     PORTRAITURE. 

Milwaukee  is  a  city  of  some  twenty  years'  growth,  and 
now  contains  20,000  population.  It  is  the  county-seat  of 
Milwaukee  county,  which  contains  near  35,000  inhabitants, 
a  large  number  of  whom  are  Dutch,  Swiss,  Norwegians, 
and  Irish,  and  who  are,  for  the  most  part,  quiet,  industri 
ous  people. 

Milwaukee  is  destined  to  become  an  important  city  in 
point  of  business  and  population.  It  is  noted  for  its 
splendid  blocks  of  buildings,  and  its  superior  brick,  which 
probably  surpass  those  made  in  any  other  part  of  our  nation. 
They  have  become  a  valuable  article  of  export  to  many 
towns  on  the  Great  Lakes,  and  are  an  object  of  admiration 
with  all  who  see  them,  being  hard,  smooth,  and  of  a 
beautiful  straw  color. 

The  Milwaukee  and  Misissippi  Railroad  is  already  in 
operation  to  WAUKESHA,  a  distance  of  about  sixteen  miles ; 
and  designed  to  be  continued,  as  fast  as  possible,  through 
MADISON,  the  state  capital,  and  thence  to  the  Mississippi 
river.  There  are  also  several  Plankroads  leading  from 
the  city  to  different  points  in  the  interior,  affording  valua 
ble  convenience  for  hauling  the  country  produce  to  the 
lake  for  Eastern  shipment,  and  taking  merchandise  back. 

A  better  idea  of  the  progress  and  character  of  this  fine 
young  city  and  county  may  be  formed  from  reading  some 
extracts  from  LAPHAM'S  book,  published  in  1846,  in  con 
trast  with  its  present  size  and  business.  He  says : 

"  In  1842,  the  population  of  the  county  of  Milwaukee  was 
9,565 ;  and  such  has  been  the  rapid  increase,  since  June  of  that 
year,  that  the  population  may  now  (1846)  be  safely  estimated  at 
twenty-five  thousand."  *  *  #  "  The  county  is  twenty-four 
miles  square  ;  with  a  soil,  generally  speaking,  abundantly  rich, 
adapted  to  the  growth  of  the  usual  crops  in  this  climate  and  lati 
tude,  and  mostly  covered  with  a  heavy  growth  of  fine  timber." 
*  *  "  The  shore  of  Lake  Michigan,  in  this  county,  consists 
of  a  bank  of  clay  from  twenty  to  one  hundred  feet  high,  and  as 
nearly  perpendicular  ns  the  nature  of  the  material  will  admit. 


OFTHE  V^ 

UNIVERSITY  11 

OF  Jl 

'•"•Ll  F' "» n ^W^AUKEE — BAY — SCENERY.  41 

From  this,  the  country  gradually  rises,  as  we  pass  Westward,  un 
til  we  attain  the  summit  between  the  Lake  and  Rock  river,  which 
is  three  hundred  and  sixteen  feet  above  the  level  of  Lake  Michi 
gan." 

""The  surface  of  the  country  is  broken  by  the  valleys  of  several 
streams,  mostly  running  toward  the  south;  but  these  valleys  are 
usually  not  much  depressed  below  the  general  level."  "  Some  of 
the  highest  points  in  the  western  part  of  the  county  are  probably 
five  hundred  feet  above  the  lake."  "  The  whole  county  is  based 
upon  limestone,  mostly  of  a  light-bluish  gray  color,  disposed  in 
thin  nearly  horizontal  layers  or  strata  ;  and  is  an  excellent  build 
ing  material,  and  affords  good  lime." 

"  Milwaukee  is  now  incorporated  as  a  city ;  it  is  situated  on  the 
river  of  the  same  name,  near  its  mouth  or  entrance  into  Mil 
waukee  bay,  of  Lake  Michigan,  ninety  miles  north  of  Chicago, 
one  hundred  and  four  southeast  from  Green  Bay,  and  about 
eighty  due  east  from  Madison.  It  was  laid  out  as  a  village  in 
1835."  "  Such  was  the  rapidity  with  which  its  population  in 
creased  that  in  June  of  the  succeeding  year  the  number  of  its  in 
habitants  was  one  thousand  two  hundred  and  six."  "  Within  ten 
years  from  the  time  when  the  first  inhabitant  arrived  here,  with  a 
view  to  permanent  residence,  we  see  a  city  with  a  population  of  at 
least  ten  thousand." 

"  Milwaukee  bay  is  a  semicircular  indentation  of  Lake  Michi 
gan,  about  six  miles  across,  and  three  miles  deep.  The  north  and 
south  points  or  capes  protect  the  shipping  from  the  effects  of  all 
storms  and  gales  of  wind,  except  those  from  the  east,  which  seldom 
occur.  The  bottom  is  clay,  affording  good  anchorage  ground." 

Though  Mr.  L.  was  a  resident,  and  an  earnest  well- 
wisher  of  Milwaukee,  he  scarcely  anticipated  what  that 
city  has  already  become,  while  its  growth  must  still  be 
rapidly  onward.  The  location  is  healthy  and  beautiful ; 
and  has  attracted  many  settlers  from  various  parts  of 
Western  New  York,  with  their  capital  to  invest. 

As  an  instance  of  the  value  of  property  in  Milwaukee, 
the  Daily  Wisconsin  publishes  the  following  notice  of 
sales  of  lots  in  that  city,  a  short  time  since,  for  cash,  and 
remarks : 

"  This  shows  that  there  is  some  money  here  in  spite  of  the 


42 


WESTERN   PORTRAITURE. 


'  hard  times,'  and  also  that  there  is  a  confidence  in  the  rising  value 
of  real  estate  in  this  city : 

Lot 


5 

Block  7 

$195  00 

Lot  16 

Block  117 

$105  00 

4 

"  7 

127  50 

"  15 

"   117 

75  00 

I 

"   7 

90  00 

"  17 

"   119 

250  00 

4 

«  20 

25  00 

"   1 

"   112 

250  00 

4 

"  88 

135  00 

"  14 

"   121 

37  50 

5 

"  88 

140  00 

"  10 

"   129 

195  00 

11 

«  105 

77  50 

"   6 

59 

505  60 

19 

"  114 

87  50 

The  same  paper  gives  the  following  account  of  a  hunt 
ing  and  ducking  excursion  in  that  vicinity : 

"  One  of  our  prominent  citizens,  receiving  a  visit  from  an  east 
ern  friend,  thought  it  incumbent  upon  himself  to  '  show  the  lions' 
of  the  city,  and  the  adjacent  country.  Among  other  things,  a  gun 
ning  excursion  up  the  Menomonee  river  was  planned,  and,  to  a 
certain  extent,  executed.  In  order  to  give  the  visitor  a  vivid  im 
pression  of  these  *  western  wilds,'  and  to  shoot  Teal  after  the  fash 
ion  of  '  wild  injuns,'  a  dug-out  was  chosen,  in  preference  to  a 
more  modern  specimen  of  naval  architecture.  With  considerable 
internal  trepidation,  but  with  much  external  confidence,  our  '  old 
settler'  succeeded  in  paddling  the  log  up  to  the  shooting-ground. 
On  arriving  there,  he  spied  a  duck  among  the  reeds,  and  as  is  nat 
ural  for  a  mind  occupied  with  an  absorbing  idea,  in  his  eagerness 
for  the  duck  he  forgot  the  dug-out,  and  started  up  to  fire.  There 
was  a  report  of  a  gun,  two  individual  shouts,  and  two  heavy  simul 
taneous  splashes ;  and  '  there  might  have  been  seen,'  for  a  few 
seconds,  nothing  but  a  dug-out  floating  bottom  up  on  the  sur 
face  of  the  water.  Our  friends  had  made  an  involuntary  dis 
appearance  in  the  cool  waters  of  the  stream.  A  few  minutes 
later,  and  two  dismal-looking  figures  '  might  also  have  been  seen' 
astride  of  the  log,  casting  rueful  glances  at  each  other,  and  reliev 
ing  their  over-filled  mouths  and  nostrils  of  a  very  dubious-looking 
fluid.  One  still  retained  his  gun  with  a  convulsive  grasp.  The 
other,  doubtless,  considering  his  as  an  incumbrance  under  water, 
had  left  it  there.  After  collecting  their  scattered  faculties,  they 
made  a  straight  wake  for  shore,  and  thence  to  their  residence, 
wiser  if  not  sadder  men.  One  has  had  enough  of  '  primitive'  gun 
ning,  and  the  other  has  ever  since  had  implicit  faith  in  modern 
improvements." 


EACINE KENOSHA.  43 

From  the  large  amount  of  excellent  flour  that  is  man 
ufactured  at  Rochester,  N.  Y.,  that  place  is  called  the 
"Flour  City;"  and  from  the  same  principle,  the  thriving, 
queenly  city  of  Milwaukee  should  be  designated  the 
"  Orange  Brick  City,"  from  the  vast  numbers  of  superior 
yellow  brick  which  are  made  there. 

RACINE  is  the  next  city,  some  twenty-five  miles  south 
of  the  latter  city ;  and  contains  about  5,000  population. 
It  has  a  fine  harbor  and  piers ;  is  a  place  of  extensive 
business ;  and  is  county-seat  of  Racine  county.  Mr.  Lap- 
ham  says  of  it : 

"  The  population  of  Kacine  was  ascertained  in  October,  1845,  to 
be  two  thousand  five  hundred  and  nine.  The  amount  of  trade  has 
very  considerably  increased  since  1842,  especially  in  the  exporta 
tion  of  wheat,  flour,  beef,  pork,  and  recently,  wool  is  among  its 
exports." 

Since  then  the  business  and  population  has  greatly  in 
creased. 

Racine  county  is  a  very  small  .one,  with  about  15,000 
population,  and  composed  mostly  of  beautiful,  gently 
rolling  prairies,  of  the  most  fertile  kind,  with  occasional 
oak  and  hickory  groves,  and  strips  of  timber  along  the 
rivers ;  though  timber  is  rather  scarce,  yet  the  cheap  price 
of  lumber  and  coal,  by  lake,  in  a  degree  compensates  for 
the  want  of  timber.  Some  quarries  of  limestone  are  found 
in  the  banks  of  the  rivers. 

KENOSHA  (formerly  Southport),  is  a  city  lying  ten  miles 
south  of  the  latter  place,  containing  nearly  the  same  num 
ber  of  population,  and  doing  about  the  same  amount  and 
kind  of  business.  It  is  the  county-seat  of  Kenosha  county, 
and  has  a  fine  harbor. 

Kenosha  county  is  also  a  small  county,  which  was  re 
cently  part  of  and  set  off  from  Racine  county.  It  contains 
about  11,000  population.  The  soil,  timber,  streams,  etc., 
are  similar  to  those  of  that  county — and  presents  some 


44  WESTERN   PORTRAITURE. 

of  the  most  fertile,  well-cultivated  farms,  in  all  the  West 
— with  much  excellent  stock.  The  prairies  which  are 
found  in  these  counties,  five  to  ten  and  fifteen  miles  from 
the  lake,  are  among  the  most  beautiful  in  any  part  of  the 
prairie  world.  This  is  the  southern  lake  town  in  Wiscon 
sin,  and  though  we  are  now  to  leave  the  -state,  we  hope 
soon  to  return  and  describe  the  interior  portions. 

We  have  now  passed  the  last  county  in  Wisconsin, 
lying  on  the  lake,  and  fifteen  miles  south,  we  reach — 

WAUKEGAN  (formerly  Littlefort)  in  Illinois,  county-seat 
of  Lake  county.  It  is  a  thriving  city  of  about  4,000  pop 
ulation.  With  its  green  sloping  shores,  its  deep  dusky 
ravines,  and  rounded  swelling  hill  in  the  center,  on  which 
stands  the  court  house;  this  is  probably  the  most  at 
tractive  location  on  the  western  shore  of  Lake  Michigan. 
It  is  a  place  of  much  business,  and  must  have  a  rapid 
growth  for  years,  backed-up  as  it  is,  in  three  directions, 
by  a  rich  and  extensive  farming  country,  and  a  good  har 
bor  and  piers  in  front.  It  is  about  forty  miles  north  of 
Chicago.  For  a  few  miles  immediately  next  around  it, 
there  is  considerable  timber,  and  beyond  that  fine  prairies. 
Lake  county  is  well  watered  by  the  head-fountains  of  Fox 
and  O' Plain  rivers,  which  run  south,  and  empty  into  the 
Illinois. 

All  the  towns  which  we  have  thus  visited  and  described, 
have  at  least  one  Newspaper  published  in  their  midst ; 
some  of  them  two ;  while  at  Milwaukee  there  are  about  a 
dozen,  some  daily,  others  weekly  and  monthly ;  at  Chicago 
there  are  over  twenty,  some  daily,  weekly,  and  monthly. 
There  are  also,  passing  through  all  the  towns,  from  Mil 
waukee  to  Chicago,  two  Telegraph  lines — O'Rielly's  and 
Col.  Speed's ;  and  both  doing  an  active  business,  which 
evinces  great  amount  and  activity  in  the  commercial  trans 
actions  of  the  towns. 

CHICAGO  is  the  next  place  we  reach,  although  there  are 


CHICAGO RAILROAD CANAL.  45 

one  or  two  little  embryo  villages  starting  up  along  the  lake 
between  this  city  and  Waukegan,  where  are  short  piers, 
wood-yards,  and  a  few  tenements. 

Chicago,  the  county  seat  of  Cook  county,  is  much  the 
largest  city  on  the  lakes  west  of  Buffalo ;  and  is  the  great 
shipping  point  for  northern,  western,  central,  and  even  por 
tions  of  southern  Illinois.  The  Illinois  and  Michigan  Ca 
nal  brings  immense  amounts  of  produce  from  the  south 
and  southwest,  while  the  Galena  and  Chicago  Railroad 
brings  large  quantities  from  the  west  and  northwest,  all  of 
which  is  shipped  at  Chicago,  for  the  Atlantic  seaboard ; 
and  in  return  these  conveyances  carry  back  to  those  sev 
eral  interior  regions  the  vast  vessel  loads  of  merchandise 
which  come  up  the  lakes,  and  are  required  by  this  western 
and  southern  population. 

The  city  is  situated  at  the  mouth  of  a  river  of  the  same 
name,  the  main  body  of  which1  sets  back  near  two  miles 
into  the  town,  then  divides  into  two  branches,  both  of 
which  have  a  uniform  depth  of  from  12  to  15  feet  water, 
all  furnishing  a  commodious  and  almost  unlimited  harbor 
for  an  immense  amount  of  shipping,  of  every  description, 
from  the  graceful  yacht  to  the  huge  bark  and  magnificent 
steamer;  which  continually  throng  the  many  miles  of 
wharfing,  and  crowd  the  channels  with  their  exits  and  en 
trances,  daily  and  hourly. 

The  leading  articles  of  export  from  this  city  are  wheat, 
flour,  pork,  beef,  cattle,  horses,  wool,  lard,  etc.,  eastward 
by  steamboat  and  sail  vessels ;  lumber,  merchandise,  iron 
ware,  wood  and  iron  machinery,  farming  utensils,  etc., 
southward  by  canal,  and  westward  by  railroad.  But  the 
lumber  trade,  more  than  any  other,  distinguishes  Chicago. 
It  has  hitherto  been  claimed  that  Bangor,  Me.,  did  the 
most  extensive  lumber  business  of  any  city  in  our  nation ; 
but  by  reference  to  commercial  tables  in  the  newspapers 
of  that  city,  a  short  time  since,  it  will  be  seen  that,  for  the 


46  WESTERN    PORTRAITURE. 

last  year,  the  lumber  trade  of  Chicago  exceeded  that  of 
Bangor  by  nearly  two  hundred  thousand  feet,  and  each 
place  overgoing  175  millions  feet.v  The  following,  from 
the  Chicago  Tribune,  shows  the  lumber  business  of  that  city : 

"  For  the  benefit  of  our  cotemporaries,  we  copy  from  our  'An 
nual  Review  of  the  Trade  and  Commerce  of  Chicago,  for  the  year 
1850,'  the  amount,  respectively,  of  the  different  descriptions  of  lum 
ber  received  by  Lake  for  that  year  : 

Lumber  (boards) , .feet, 100,367,797 

Shingles, no., 55,423,750 

Lath, pieces, 19,890,700 

Pickets, «      100,393 

Staves  and  Headings, "      3,000,000 

Shingle  Bolts, cords, 3,132 

Square  Timber, cubic  feet,  . .          63 ,579 

Cedar  Posts, no., 64,564 

"  The  lumber  trade  has  become  one  of  the  great  features  of  the 
commerce  of  Chicago.  The  following  table  exhibits  very  briefly 
the  operations  in  this  department  for  the  present  year,  contrasted 
with  that  of  1849  : 

Receipts.      1849.  1850. 

Lumber,  ft. , 73,259,533     100,364,797 

Shingles, 50,579,750      77,347,750 

Lath, 19,281,733      19,890,700  " 

Chicago,  being  located  on  the  shore  of  Lake  Michigan, 
embracing  both  sides  of  the  river,  on  the  borders  of  a  wide, 
rich,  and  beautiful  prairie,  extending  in  different  directions 
for  many  miles,  handsomely  diversified  by  small  groves 
and  strips  of  timber,  wrhich  spring  up  at  commodious  in 
tervals  along  the  banks  of  the  river,  and  in  some  places 
on  the  lake  shore ;  all  forming  a  very  delightful  and  diver 
sified  picture,  as  it  is  viewed  from  some  of  the  elevated 
observatories  of  the  city ;  and  particularly,  when  taken  in 
combination  with  the  long,  broad,  and  shaded  avenues  of 
green  which  lead  away  into  the  expanded  prairies,  or  ter 
minate  in  the  glittering  lake,  passing  many  beautiful  gar- 


SCENERY SHORES SOIL TRADE.  47 

dens  and  elegant  villas,  does  the  scene  become  one  of  en 
chanting  loveliness. 

The  lands  all  about  Chicago,  with  few  exceptions,  for 
twenty  to  thirty  miles  distant,  are  valuable  and  held  at 
high  prices ;  but  the  character  of  the  soil  is  such,  that  it  is 
better  adapted  to  grazing  and  growing  of  corn,  oats,  bar 
ley,  and  root  crops,  than  to  wheat ;  it  being  an  exceedingly 
rich,  deep,  rank  soil,  upon  which  garden  vegetables,  straw 
berries,  and  fruits  flourish  in  great  luxuriance.  For  the 
most  part,  the  soil  is  peaty  loam,  containing  small  por 
tions  of  marl  and  sand,  with  a  stiff  clay  subsoil,  and  occa 
sional  sand  ridges,  running  through  the  meadows,  parallel 
to  the  lake,  which  leads  many  to  the  conclusion  that  the 
lake  has,  from  time  to  time,  been  receding  from  its  original 
bounds,  leaving  these  ridges  as  its  beach  at  various  periods. 

There  is  no  marsh  or  impassably  wet  land  about  Chicago, 
as  strangers  often  imagine  from  a  casual  glance,  though  the 
surface  is  very  level,  at  a  hight  of  from  three  to  five  feet 
above  the  lake  and  river.  And  the  winds,  off  and  onto 
the  lake,  create  fluctuations  in  the  water  of  the  river  from 
twelve  to  twenty  inches,  much  like  tides  in  seaboard  riv 
ers,  and  have  a  fine  effect  in  promoting  health,  by  keeping 
the  waters  active  and  fresh. 

In  regard  to  the  direction  of  transportation  and  trade,  as 
touching  the  West  and  North  West,  the  Chicago  Daily 
Tribune  has  the  following : 

"We  have  repeatedly  called  attention  to  the  fact  that  the  open 
ing  of  the  Illinois  and  Michigan  Canal  had  changed  the  course 
of  trade  of  a  very  large  portion  of  the  productions  of  the  Illinois 
River  Valley.  Previous  to  that  event,  that  region  of  country 
found  its  only  outlet  to  market  by  following  the  downward  course 
of  the  rivers  to  the  Gulf  of  Mexico.  The  amount  of  corn,  wheat, 
pork,  lard,  beef,  and  tallow,  and  many  other  articles,  that  have 
taken  the  Northern  route  the  present  season,  is  immense. 

"  Not  only  is  it  in  the  productions  above  referred  to,  that  we  find 
a  remarkable  change  in  the  course  of  trade,  but  merchandise  oi 


48  WESTERN   PORTRAITURE. 

almost  every  description,  passing  from  the  East  to  the  Illinois, 
Mississippi,  or  Missouri  rivers,  are  now  forwarded  by  way  of  the 
Lakes  and  the  Illinois  and  Michigan  Canal.  Within  a  short  time 
past,  we  have  noticed  large  consignments  coming  up  the  Lakes,  en 
route  for  the  St.  Louis  market.  Not  only  dry  goods,  boots  and 
shoes,  but  heavier  articles,  such  as  sugars,  molasses,  iron,  and  ma 
chinery,  are  now  taken  by  this  route  from  the  Seaboard  into  the 
heart  of  the  Great  West. 

"  A  late  number  of  the  St.  Louis  Intelligencer  notices  the  ar 
rival  at  that  place  of  a  canal-boat  load  of  Porto  Rico  sugars,  which 
had  been  brought  through  from  New  York  for  65c.  per  lOOlbs.,  and 
insurance  one  per  cent.  Large  quantities  of  fruits,  teas,  wines, 
etc.,  are  received  in  that  city  also  by  the  same  route. 

"  Furs,  peltries,  wool,  etc.,  from  the  River  Region,  south  of  us, 
are  also  being  shipped  North  and  East  by  the  Illinois  and  Michi 
gan  Canal  and  the  Lakes.  Cotton  is  also  seeking  a  Northern  mar 
ket  by  the  Lake  route.  A  late  number  of  the  Jllbany  Evening 
Journal  says  : 

"  '  A  canal-boat  is  now  in  the  basin,  consigned  to  MONTEATH  & 
Co.,  laden  with  cotton — being  the  fourth  which  has  brought  this 
staple  from  the  West  this  season.  The  experiment  bids  fair  to 
prove  successful.'  Large  quantities  of  tobacco  have  also  been  ship 
ped  East  the  present  season,  by  the  same  route,  and  we  understand 
contracts  have  been  made  for  future  heavy  shipments. 

"  In  addition  to  the  above,  the  shipment  of  beef  cattle,  by  Lake 
and  Railroad,  to  the  New  York  and  Boston  markets,  has  become 
quite  an  important  business.  The  New  York  Express,  noticing 
this  fact,  says  :  '  Beef  is  now  sold  in  this  city  from  cattle  that  were 
grazing  on  the  plains  of  Illinois  a  fortnight  before.  Cattle  are 
brought  from  Chicago  to  New  York,  all  the  way  by  steam,  arriving, 
of  course,  in  much  better  flesh  and  in  a  more  healthy  condition 
than  if  they  had  been  driven.' 

"  These  are  movements  in  which  the  people  of  the  North  West 
cannot  fail  to  feel  the  most  lively  interest.  They  indicate  import 
ant  results,  and  should  be  carefully  studied  by  all  who  are  in  any 
way  connected  with  the  commercial  affairs  of  the  country.  Hence 
forth,  is  our  region  of  country,  not  only  to  sustain  highly  import 
ant  commercial  relations  with  both  South  and  North,  by  reason  of 
its  abundant  productions,  but  also,  as  a  medium  through  which  the 
commercial  exchanges  of  those  remote  districts  will  be  effected. 
We  have  only  seen  '  the  beginning  of  the  end.' " 


CHICAGO COMMERCE PRODUCE. 


49 


The  following  tables,  from  the  Commercial  Reports  in 
that  paper,  will  be  interesting,  as  showing  the  amount  of 
tolls  received  from  the  Canal  business,  the  dates  of  open 
ing  and  closing  its  navigation,  together  with  similar  in 
formation  in  regard  to  the  Lake  operations : 

"  The  following  table  shows  the  amount  of  tolls  collected  at  all 
the  offices  of  the  Canal  for  three  years  : 

1848. 

March 

April 

May 6,22784 

June 10,889  10 

July 11,25837 

August 10,480  21 

September 21 ,150  49 

October 16,961  26 

November 9,597  21 

December..  ..10942 


1849. 

1850. 

4,986  26 

4,694  69 

17,114  06 

13,112  87 

15,986  15 

19,263  42 

14,521  86 

11,954  68 

11,93802 

14,913  76 

S-,446  76 

18,177  67 

14,055  57 

18,480  41 

22,235  56 

16,546  58 

15,267  63 

1,643  24 

37034 

Total $86,673  80  118,787  32    124,974  21 

"  NOTE— Of  the  tolls  for  1850,  $87,856,  $65,000  were  received 
at  the  Chicago  Office." 

"  Date  of  first  clearance  for  Lower  Lakes,  April  4th 

last        "  "  Nov.  27th 

"         first  arrival  from  "  April  6th 

last        "  «  Dec.   17th." 

"  The  whole  number  of  registered  clearances  for  1850  is   1066 

Arrivals  "  1668." 

Below  are  farther  tables,  which  show  the  state  of  mar 
kets,  with  the  amount  of  receipts  and  shipments  by  the 
various  mediums,  at  Chicago  : 

"  The  market  for  wheat  opened  here  on  March  16th,  at  50a62j 
for  spring,  and  70a85  for  winter.  By  the  first  of  April  large  lots 
of  spring  were  changing  hands  at  73a78  cents.  Prices  continued 
advancing,  with  now  and  then  slight  fluctuations.  On  the  loth 
May,  spring  wheat  was  firm  at  90  cents,  and  winter  at  $1.10.  At 
the  same  time  flour  ranged  at  .$8.75  to  $6. 00,  from  inferior  country 
to  extra  city  brands.  In  June  the  culminating  point  was  reached 
5 


50  WESTERN    PORTRAITURE. 

at  $1.00a!rf>1.05  for  spring  wheat,  and  $1.15a$1.20  for  winter,  and 
$4,50a$7.00  TOY  flour.  At  this  period  the  crops  at  the  South  gave 
indications  both  of  an  early  and  abundant  harvest. 

"  The  first  wheat  of  the  new  crop  reached  our  market  on  the  20th 
of  July.  At  that  date  spring  was  worth  54a60,  and  winter  62a70. 
Since  then  prices  have  fluctuated  from  38a45  for  spring,  and  50a65 
for  winter,  to  60a65  for  spring,  and  70a83  for  winter — choice  lots 
for  milling  going  higher.  At  the  present  time  47aGO  for  spring 
wheat,  and  65a78  for  winter,  are  ruling  rates. 

"  Corn,  in  the  early  part  of  the  season,  came  forward  freely  by 
Canal,  during  which  time  prices  ranged  in  this  market  at  40a50c." 
"  The  following  figures  will  show  the  entire  receipts  and  ship 
ments  of  Grain  and  Flour  from  Dec.  1st,  1849,  to  Dec.  1st,  1850  : 

Receipts.  Shipments. 

Wheat,  bu 1,165,481  873,644 

Corn 254,314  242,285 

Oats 162,536  158,054 

Barley 24,868  22,872 

Rye 2,000  2,000 

Flour,  bbls 70,099  100,872 

"  The  above  figures  are  accurate,  with  the  exception  of  so  much 
of  them  as  comprise  receipts  by  teams.  We  have  made  an  earnest 
and  continued  eifort  through  the  whole  year  to  keep  an  account  of 
the  quantity  reaching  the  city  by  this  means.  Unquestionably, 
however,  we  have,  now  and  then,  failed  to  get  an  account  of  every 
wagon  load,  and  this  will  account  for  any  seeming  discrepancy 
between  receipts  and  shipments,  when  the  consumption  of  the  city 
is  taken  into  account. 

"  The  shipments  of  wool  by  Lake  in  1849  amounted  to  520,202 
Ibs,— in  1850  to  913,862— being  an  increase  of  393,660  Ibs." 

"  During  the  present  year  there  had  been  received  by  railroad 
up  to 

Sept.  1st 195,200  Ibs 

By  canal  to  Oct.  1st 482,299     " 

Other  sources  (estimated) 200,000     " 


Total 877,499     " 

Cincinnati  has  been  long  noted  as  the  greatest  pork  and 
hog  market  in  the  country ;  but  Chicago  is  as  undoubt 
edly  the  most  extensive  cattle  and  beef  market  in  our 
country. 


CHICAGO COMMERCE,    ETC.  51 

The  Slaughtering  business  has  been  more  extensively 
carried  on  during  the  present  year  than  ever  before  in 
Chicago.  There  is  perhaps  no  other  Western  city  that 
slaughters  the  number  of  cattle  which  Chicago  does.  The 
whole  number  of  cattle  slaughtered,  during  the  season, 
was  27,500 ;  and  the  amount  of  capital  invested,  about 
three  fourths  of  a  million  of  dollars.  In  addition,  about 
10,000  sheep  have  been  slaughtered  within  two  months. 

The  Commerce  and  Monetary  matters  of  Chicago  are 
carried  on  by  some  eight  or  ten  brokers  and  bankers ; 
thirty  to  forty  forwarding  and  commission  houses  and 
produce  buyers ;  as  many  lumber  dealers ;  beside  a 
large  number  of  wholesale  merchants,  in  all  branches  of 
mercantile  operations,  as  dry  goods,  grocers,  iron,  hard 
ware,  and  all  kinds  of  wearing  apparel  from  head  to 
foot ;  together  with  a  host  of  retail  dealers,  in  every  de 
scription  of  mechanical  work. 

Here  may  be  seen  Hotels  wrhich,  in  size  and  accommo 
dation,  are  surpassed  but  by  three  or  four  in  our  nation. 
Some  of  the  Church  edifices,  too,  are  splendid  specimens 
of  architecture,  wTith  many  magnificent  dwellings. 

The  three  principal  avenues  of  Transportation  abroad, 
are  those  before  noticed — the  Lakes,  Railroads,  and  Canal. 
Though  these  extracts  and  remarks  give  but  a  birds-eye 
view  of  the  Trade  and  Commerce  of  the  "  Garden  City," 
still  it  will  afford  some  idea  of  the  vast  amount  of  busi 
ness  there  transacted. 

Upon  the  Wholesale  business  of  that  city  the  Chicago 
Democrat  makes  the  following  remarks  : 

"  We  have  heretofore  spdken  of  the  additions  made  to  our 
•wholesaling  firms  within  the  past  year  or  two.  We  still  notice 
that  the  increase  of  wholesale  houses  continues ;  and  this  year  in 
a  more  marked  degree  than  for  any  year  previous.  In  fact,  Water 
Street  is  being  built  up,  along  its  entire  length,  both  on  the 
river  and  on  the  south  side,  with  large  buildings,  fitted  up  in  the 
best  manner  for  wholesale  warehouses.  These  buildings  are  now, 


52  WESTERN    PORTRAITURE. 

for  the  most  part,  filled  with  large  and  varied  stocks  in  the  dry 
goods,  grocery,  drug,  boot  and  shoe,  oil,  paint,  and  hardware 
lines. 

"  The  completion  of  the  Canal,  and  still  more  the  extension  of 
the  Railroads,  have  operated  rather  to  the  injury  of  our  Retail  es 
tablishments,  which,  in  many  instances  were  transferred  to  the 
country  villages ;  those  that  remained  were  compelled  in  a  great 
measure  to  confine  their  business  to  a  merely  city  demand,  which, 
in  the  meantime,  has  been  springing  up  in  a  most  unprecedented 
manner,  and  which  has  now  more  than  made  up  for  the  loss  caused 
by  the  transfer  of  the  country  trade. 

"  The  completion  of  the  Canal  and  the  Railroads,  has,  however, 
created  another  trade — the  Wholesale  one,  which  has  now  taken  a 
fair  start ;  one,  indeed,  that  promises  well  for  its  future  extent 
and  prosperity.  Our  Wholesale  establishments  are  now  the  pride 
of  our  city,  and  are  fully  able  to  meet  all  the  demands  of  the 
trade  scattered  in  the  flourishing  towns  and  villages  around  us. 

"  We  have  no  doubt  at  all  that  it  is  for  the  interest  of  country 
merchants  to  at  least  look  in  upon  Chicago  and  see  what  we  can 
do  for  them.  A  fair  trial  is  all  that  our  merchants  ask.  If  they 
cannot  sell  them  at  as  cheap  rates  as  goods  can  be  obtained  for  in 
the  East,  they  are  satisfied  to  allow  them  continue  on  their  way.  If 
goods  can  be  obtained  here,  even  a  little  above  New  York  prices, 
there  is  still  the  item  of  expense  of  traveling  to  be  counted,  to  say 
nothing  of  time,  which,  in  these  days  of  steam  and  lightning  is 
more  than  even  money. 

"  There  are  other  reasons  which  give  Chicago  the  advantage. 
A  country  merchant  can  here  make  a  more  careful  selection  of  his 
goods  without  being  compelled  to  make  large  purchases  of  articles 
which  remain  upon  his  shelves  to  be  afterward  sold  at  less  than 
cost.  He  can  also  run  in  upon  the  Railroad,  make  a  selection  of 
a  few  articles  required  by  him,  sell  them  readily,  and  thus  turn 
his  money  quickly,  realizing  two  per  cent,  where  he  formerly  made 
but  one.  In  the  meantime  we  would  call  the  attention  of  our 
country  merchants  to  our  wholesale  establishments,  to  give  them  a 
trial,  in  the  full  confidence  that  they  will  save  money,  time,  and 
trouble,  by  trading  in  Chicago,  instead  of  going  East,  as  many  of 
them  have  heretofore  done." 

Another  improvement,  which  is  largely  characteristic 
of  the  Western  States,  that  greatly  facilitates  the  business 
between  Chicago  and  the  country,  is  the  many  Plankroads 


PAPERS AURORA    BOREALIS.  53 

which  lead,  in  different  directions,  out  of  the  city  to  the 
various  farming  districts. 

These  roads  are  substantially  built  of  heavy  plank,  at 
an  expense  of  from  $1,100  to  $1,500  per  mile ;  and  at  toll 
rates  of  1J  to  2  cents  per  mile,  they  pay  a  revenue,  on 
the  capital  invested,  varying  from  15,  25  to  40  per  cent. 

Most  of  the  large  towns  situated  along  the  Lake,  the 
Railroads,  the  Canal,  and  the  Rivers,  have  Plankroads 
running  back  into  the  country,  by  which  the  hauling  of 
produce  in,  and  merchandise  out,  is  greatly  facilitated. 
The  States  west  of  the  Lakes  have  more  of  this  kind  of 
roads,  in  proportion  to  the  number  of  the  population,  than 
*the  older  States  have. 

There  are  two  excellent  Agricultural  Monthlies  pub 
lished  in  these  States ;  the  Prairie  Farmer,  at  Chicago ; 
and  the  Wisconsin  Farmer,  in  that  State. 

Of  that  phenomenon,  Aurora  Borealis,  which  is  usu 
ally  so  brilliant  in  that  latitude,  a  recent  number  of  the 
Chicago  Journal  gives  the  following  vivid  description, 
under  the  title  of  "  ferial  rehearsal :" 

"  On  Monday  evening,  the  sky  presented  a  succession  of  the 
most  beautiful  appearances  we  have  seen  in  many  a  night.  The 
moon  with  a  new  coat  of  silver,  rode  high  in  the  west,  while  in 
the  north  and  northeast,  pure,  pearly-white  overlaid  the  blue — 
then  deepened  to  an  orange — then  turned  to  a  crimson,  till  it  look 
ed  like  the  pillar  of  fire  in  the  wilderness,  or  a  Daguerreotype  of 
sunset.  Anon  it  changed — the  crimson  was  pink — the  blue  a 
blush,  and  the  pearl  a  delicate  green. 

"What  they  Avere  doing  up  aloft,  is  more  than  we  knoAV — 
whether  rehearsing  sunset  or  sunrise,  'shifting  scenes,'  for  the 
never-before  performed  drama  of  '  To-morrow,'  or  spreading  out 
rainbows  on  the  upper  decks,  to  dry,  is  to  us  a  mystery.  Now 
and  then,  we  saw  white,  silvery-looking  spars- extending  from  the 
northern  horizon,  and  converging  in  the  zenith;  and  it  occurred 
to  us  that  may  be  they  were  repairing  this  great  blue  tent  we  live 
under,  and  that  we  saw  the  bare  spars,  and  the  red  linings  of  the 
curtains  that  were  thrown  up  to  keep  them  out  of  the  way  of  the 
aerial  craftsmen.  And  then  again,  as  it  crimsoned  and  pearled, 


54  WESTERN   PORTRAITURE. 

and  clouded  so  exquisitely,  we  fancied  it  might  be  Heaven's  grand 
pattern  for  sea-sliells  to  tint  by,  that  we  had  discovered  at  last. 
And  once  more,  ere  we  had  quite  made  up  our  mind  on  this  con 
jecture,  such  a  beam,  nay  cloud  of  red  light  streamed  out  into  the 
night,  and  over  the  stars,  that  we  were  sure  it  must  come  from 
Heaven's  painted  window,  and  that  somebody — perhaps,  some 
body  we  once  knew  and  loved,  and  love  still — was  passing  to  and 
fro,  giving  us,  without  the  walls,  a  glimpse  6r  two  of  the  glory 
within.  As  we  kept  looking,  we  kept  fancying,  and  who  knew, 
but  it  might  not  be  the  evening  of  some  forgotten  and  long-past 
yesterday,  thus  '  revisiting  the  glimpses  of  the  moon' — one  that 
you  and  we  loved,  and  have  sighed  for,  more  than  we  would  care 
to  tell,  and  would  give  a  dozen  to-morrows  to  see  again. 

"  As  we  looked,  it  changed,  and  the  whole  heaven  from  far  be 
low  the  Dipper  to  the  Zenith,  was  a  flutter.  Through  the  silvery 
lace-work  shone  the  stars  and  the  blue,  and  the  galaxy  itself!* 
What  could  it  be,  but  the  dim  scarfs  of  the  loved  and  lost,  thus 
waved  in  token  of  remembrance  to  the  earth  beneath  ?  And  why 
not  ?  How  beautiful  and  how  calm  lay  that  earth,  beneath  the  great 
argus  sky.  The  eyes  of  hundreds  were  turned  toward  Heaven, 
that  during  the  broad  and  glaring  day,  forgot  there  was  a  Heaven, 
or  a  treasure  in  it.  They  remembered  it  then,  and  were  remem 
bered  in  turn!  Ah!  if  our  fancies  were  only  half  true ! 

"  The  books  call  it  Aurora  Borealis — what  do  we  care  for  the 
books  ?  and  the  philosophers  declare  it  is  electrical  in  its  origin ; 
a  fig  for  the  philosophers ! — the  book  of  memory  and  the  human 
heart  was  printed  and  collated  before  that  conceited  old  Ger 
man,  they  tell  of,  ever  cut  a  type,  and  as  for  philosophy,  there  is 
more  wisdom  in  a  thought  thus  tinted  with  a  ray  shining  through 
last  night  from  yesterday,  than  Seneca,  or  any  body  this  side  of 
Solomon  ever  thought  of. 

"  But  while  we  gazed,  the  vision  vanished,  the  window  was  cur 
tained,  the  rehearsal  over,  the  sea-shells  taught  their  lesson,  the 
tent  '  as  good  as  new,'  the  old  yesterday  faded  out,  the  last  scene 
shifted,  and  this  paragraph  ended." 

It  is  generally  recollected,  no  doubt,  that  in  August, 
1812,  a  most  cruel  and  terrible  massacre  was  perpetrated 
upon  the  whites  by  the  Indians,  at  this  city,  minute  ac 
counts  of  which  have  been  often  published,  both  in  the 
books  of  the  late  war  with  Great  Britain,  and  more  re- 


CHICAGO  THEN,  AND  NOW INDIANS.          55 

eently  in  pamphlets  and  newspapers.  There  were  few 
more  distressing  or  destructive  scenes  enacted  during  that 
war,  or  which  developed  more  daring  heroism,  than  was 
shown  by  some  of  the  females,  as  well  as  males,  then  in 
the  garrison  at  old  Fort  Dearborn. 

As  the  progress  of  a  city  or  country  will  be  more  fully 
appreciated  by  viewing  its  present  condition  in  contrast 
with  earlier  periods,  I  copy  a  description  of  Chicago,  and 
other  parts  of  the  West,  from  a  work  by  LATROBE,  writ 
ten  in  the  autumn  of  1833,  an  intelligent  tourist,  who  vis 
ited  the  Great  Lakes  and  the  Mississippi  at  that  time. 

After  describing  a  rough  and  tedious  overland  journey 
from  Detroit  westward — such  as  many  before  and  since 
have  experienced  and  can  \yell  appreciate — he  says : 

"  When  within  five  miles  of  Chicago,  we  came  to  the  first  Indian 
encampment.  Five  thousand  Indians — Pottawattomees — were  said 
to  be  collected  around  this  upstart  village,  for  the  prosecution  of 
the  treaty,  by  which  they  were  to  cede  their  lands,  in  Illinois  and 
Michigan,  to  the  whites." 

"I  have  been  in  many  odd  assemblages  of  my  species,  but  in 
few,  if  any,  of  an  equally  singular  character,  as  that  in  the  midst 
of  which  we  were  surrounded,  at  Chicago,  This  little  mushroom 
town  is  situated  on  the  verge  of  a  level  tract  of  country,  for  the 
greater  part  consisting  of  open  prairie  lands,  at  a  point  where  a 
small  river,  whose  sources  interlock — in  the  wet  season — with 
those  of  the  Illinois  [O'Plain]  river,  enters  Lake  Michigan.  It, 
however,  forms  no  harbor;  and  vessels  must  anchor  in  the  open 
lake,  which  spreads  to  the  horizon  on  the  North  and  East  in  a 
sheet  of  uniform  extent." 

And  Chicago  river  "  forms  no  harbor !"  This  will  be 
news  to  the  thousands  of  extensive  commercial  men,  whose 
numerous  vessels  and  steamers  now  lie  safely  and  com- 
-modiously  along  the  many  miles  of  wharfs  on  the  main 
trunk  and  branches  of  that  deep  and  busy  river.  And  it 
would  be  astonishing,  beyond  measure,  to  this  same  tour 
ist  who,  eighteen  years  ago,  wrote  that  sentence — and  in 


56  WESTERN     PORTRAITURE. 

all  candor,  no  doubt — were  he  now  to  visit  this  "  mush 
room  "  town,  and  sail  up  that  same  river  in  one  of  our 
magnificent  steamers,  to  witness  the  fleets  of  every  dcscrip 
tion  of  shipping,  which,  in  size  and  numbers,  would  make 
a  respectable  show,  even  in  his  favorite  Thames  ;  to  look 
at  the  mountains  of  lumber,  the  hundreds  of  massive  five 
and  six  story  buildings,  count  the  steeples  of  twenty  to 
thirty  towering  churches,  and  the  shining  cupolas  of  splen 
did  school-houses  and  colleges ;  with  the  many  tall  smoke- 
chimneys  of  prosperous  factories ;  and  then  watch  the 
snorting,  dashing  steam-horses  hauling  their  long  trains, 
that  make  the  prairies  tremble  again ;  and  see  the  more 
than  thirty-one  thousand  population  which  occupy  this 
city,  and  enjoy  its  advantages  and  prosperity.  But  he 
continues : 

"The  river,  after  approaching  near  at  right  angles  to  within  a 
few  hundred  yards  of  the  lake,  makes  a  short  turn  and  runs  to  the 
southward,  parallel  with  the  beach.  Fort  Dearborn  and  the  light 
house  are  placed  at  the  angle  thus  formed.  The  former  is  a  small 
stockaded  inclosure  with  several  block-houses,  and  is  garrisoned 
by  two  companies  of  infantry.  It  had  been  nearly  abandoned  until 
the  late  Indian  war  on  the  frontier  made  its  occupation  necessary. 
The  upstart  village  lies  chiefly  on  the  right  bank  of  the  river,  above 
the  fort.  When  the  proposed  steamboat  communication  Between 
Chicago  and  the  St.  Joseph  river,  which  lies  some  miles  across  the 
lake,  is  put  into  operation,  the  journey  to  Detroit  may  be  effected 
in  three  days ;  whereas,  we  had  been  upward  of  six  days  on  the 
road." 

Should  that  traveler  pass  over  this  route  now,  he  would 
find  himself  only  a  faint  prophet  of  coming  events ;  for, 
instead  of  being  three  days,  he  would  perform  the  trip  from 
Detroit  to  Chicago  in  about  fifteen  hours,  or  less.  He 
continues : 

"We  found  the  village,  on  our  arrival,  crowded  to  excess,  and 
we  procured,  with  great  difficulty,  a  small  apartment,  comfortless 
and  noisy  from  its  close  proximity  to  others,  but  quite  as  good  as 


INDIANS TREATY CHICAGO.  57 

we  could  have  hoped  for.  The  Pottawattomees  were  encamped  on 
all  sides — on  the  wide  and  level  prairies  beyond  the  scattered  vil 
lage,  beneath  the  shelter  of  the  low  Avoods  which  chequered  them, 
along  the  banks  of  the  small  river,  or  on  the  leeward  of  the  sand 
hills,  near  the  beach  of  the  lake." 

"  A  preliminary  council  had  been  held  with  the  chiefs  some  days 
before  our  arrival." 

"  Such  was  the  state  of  affairs  on  our  arrival ;  companies  of  old 
warriors  might  be  seen  sitting  and  smoking  under  every  bush,  ar 
guing,  palavering  or  pow-owing,  with  great  earnestness  ;  but  there 
seemed  no  probability  of  bringing  them  to  another  council  in  a 
hurry." 

"  But  I  was  going  to  give  you  an  inventory  of  the  contents  of 
Chicago,  when  the  recollection  of  the  warm-hearted  intercourse 
which  we  had  enjoyed  with  many  fine  fellows,  whom  probably  we 
shall  neither  see  nor  hear  of  again,  drew  me  aside." 

"  Next  in  rank  to  the  Officers  and  Commissioners,  may  be  noticed 
certain  store-keepers  and  grocers,  resident  here,  looking  for  their 
custom  and  profit  either  to  the  influx  of  new  settlers  establishing 
themselves  in  the  neighborhood,  or  to  those  passing  farther  west 
ward — not  to  forget  the  chance  of  extraordinary  occasions  like  the 
present.  Add  to  these  a  doctor  or  two,  two  or  three  lawyers,  a 
land  agent,  and  five  or  six  hotel-keepers ;  these  may  be  considered 
the  stationary  occupants  and  proprietors  of  the  score  of  clap-board 
houses  around  you.  Then  for  the  birds  of  passage — exclusive  of 
the  Pottawattomees — you  have  emigrants  and  speculators  as  nu 
merous  as  the  sand ;  horse-dealers,  and  horse-stealers,  rogues  of 
every  description — white,  black,  and  red — half-breeds,  quarter- 
breeds,  and  men  of  no  breed  at  all ;  dealers  in  pigs,  poultry,  and 
potatoes;  creditors  of  the  Indians,  sharpers,  peddlers,  grog-sellers, 
Indian  agents,  traders,  and  contractors  to  supply  the  Pottawatto 
mees." 

"  All  was  bustle  and  tumult,  especially  at  the  hour  set  apart  for 
the  distribution  of  the  rations  to  the  tribes.  Many  were  the  scenes 
which  here  presented  themselves,  exhibiting  the  habits  of  both  the 
red  men  and  the  semi-civilized  beings  around  them." 

"  But  how  sped  the  treaty  ?  you  \vill  ask.  Day  after  day  pass 
ed;  it  was  in  vain  that  the  signal-gun  from  the  fort  gave  notice  of 
an  assembling  of  chiefs  at  the  council-fire.  Pteasons  were  (by  the 
Indians)  always  found  for  delay ;  one  day  an  influential  chief  was 
out  of  the  way;  another,  the  sky  looked  cloudy,  and  the  Indian 
never  performs  any  important  business,  except  the  sky  be  clear. 


58  WESTERN    PORTRAITURE. 

"  At  length,  on  the  21st  of  September,  1833,  the  Pottawattomees 
resolved  to  meet  the  Commissioners.  We  were  politely  invited  to 
be  present.  The  council-fire  was  lighted  under  a  spacious  shed  in 
the  green  meadow,  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river  from  that  on 
which  the  Fort  stood.  From  the  difficulty  of  getting  all  together, 
it  was  late  in  the  afternoon  when  they  assembled." 

"  Three  days  later,  before  we  quitted  Chicago  on  the  25th,  the 
Treaty  with  the  Indians  was  concluded  ;  the  Commissioners  put 
ting  their  hands,  and  the  Chiefs  their  paws,  to  the  same.  By  it, 
an  apparently  advantageous  swop  was  made  for  both  parties ;  the 
main  conditions  of  which,  if  we  were  correctly  informed,  were — 
that  the  Indians  should  remove  from  the  territory  which  they  now 
occupied,  within  three  years  time,  being  conveyed,  at  Government 
expense,  beyond  the  Mississippi,  and  over  the  State  of  Missouri  to 
the  western  boundary  of  the  latter,  where  5,000,000  acres  of  rich, 
fine  land  were  to  be  set  apart  for  them ;  and  that  they  were  to  be 
supported  for  one  year  after  their  arrival  in  their  new  possessions ; 
moreover,  the  Government  bound  itself  to  pay  them,  over  and 
above,  a  million  of  dollars ;  part  of  which  sum  being  set  apart  for 
the  payment  of  the  debts  of  the  tribe,  part  for  a  permanent  school 
fund,  and  part  for  agricultural  purposes,  presents,  and  so  forth." 

Now,  in  1851,  this  location,  of  scenes  so  graphically 
described,  is  occupied  by  a  gay,  wealthy,  and  flourishing 
city,  of  over  31,000  population ;  and  most  of  the  Indian  tract 
is  converted  into  a  fruitful,  highly  cultivated  agricultural  dis 
trict  ;  presenting  numerous  cheerful  dwellings,  fine  fences, 
luxuriant  crops,  tasty  gardens,  and  thrifty  stock ;  the  fields 
inclosed  variously,  with  rail,  board,  wire,  sod,  and  hedge 
fences;  in  all,  exhibiting  a  charming  and  prosperous  pic 
ture,  to  excite  admiration  and  gladness  in  every  observer. 

Some  idea  of  the  labor  and  productiveness  of  the  farm 
ing  region  which  seeks  Chicago  as  its  transportation  depot, 
may  be  formed  from  the  fact,  that  in  a  single  year  the 
value  of  exports  from  that  place  has  been  between  two  and 
three  millions  of  dollars ;  beside  its  vast  lumber  trade,  of 
nearly  two  hundred  million  feet,  distributed  in  all  direc 
tions,  to  supply  the  wants  of  a  vast  country,  so  rapidly  be 
ing  settled  and  ornamented  with  fine  buildings  fences,  etc. 


SCHOOL    FUND    OF    THE    WEST.  59 

The  greatest  ornament  of  Chicago  is  its  Primary  Schools 
— its  common  or  free  school  edifices  are  the  best  build 
ings,  for  that  purpose,  that  I  have  ever  seen  in  any  city ; 
while  the  tuition  and  management  of  the  schools  within 
are  of  as  high  and  proficient  grade,  as  those  to  be  found 
anywhere  else. 

The  School  Fund  of  the  city,  derived  from  its  school 
lands,  is  large  and  ample,  which  warrants  the  payment  of 
good  salaries  ;  and,  consequently,  secures  teachers  of  the 
highest  order  of  competency.  The  same  may  be  said,  to 
a  certain  extent,  of  the  schools  of  most  of  the  cities  and 
towns  in  the  Western  States ;  the  donation  or  appropria 
tion  of  the  public  lands,  by  Congress,  for  this  purpose, 
being  large  and  liberal.  Beside  the  amount  of  lands  set 
apart  specifically  for  educational  purposes — both  primary 
and  university — being  every  section  sixteen,  besides  other 
tracts — a  certain  per  centage,  also,  of  the  moneys  derived 
from  the  sale  of  all  public  lands,  by  the  General  Govern 
ment,  within  the  State,  is  to  be  appropriated  to  the  school 
fund :  so  that  there  is  no  part  of  the  Union  so  richly  sup 
plied  with  school  funds,  in  proportion  to  its  population,  as 
some  of  these  New  States — and  no  section  where  a  liberal 
education  can  be  obtained  at  so  small  expense,  as  here. 

The  school  houses  in  Chicago,  Milwaukee,  Dubuque, 
and  some  other  places  in  the  West,  are  really  elegant 
palaces,  and  ornaments  both  in  size  and  style ;  and  their 
operations  within  are  truly  fountains  of  knowledge. 

The  higher  institutions  of  learning  are  proportionally 
useful  and  creditable ;  and  would  even  do  honor  to  older 
cities. 

In  several  directions  from  the  city,  at  the  distance  of 
three  to  five  miles,  great  abundance  of  limestone,  of  the 
very  best  quality  for  lime  and  building  purposes,  is  quar 
ried  ;  and  which  proves  to  be  of  great  convenience  and 
advantage. 


60  WESTERN    PORTRAITURE. 

Some  eleven  miles  south  westward  from  Chicago  is  a 
pleasant  location  called  SUMMIT  ;  it  is  situated  on  the  west 
bank  of  the  Canal.  At  the  commencement  of  that  work, 
when  it  was  designed  for  a  ship  canal,  this  point  was  laid 
out  and  designed  for  a  large  town.  It  is  a  beautiful  sand 
and  gravel  ridge,  covered  with  a  fine  grove  of  oak  and 
hickory  trees,  some  two  miles  long  by  half  a  mile  wide, 
bordered  in  two  directions  by  the  best  of  prairie  lands, 
and  skirted  on  the  other  sides  by  the  river  timber ;  it  lies 
some  20  or  30  feet  higher  than  the  Canal,  and  nearly  50 
feet  higher  than  Chicago ;  it  is  the  highest  point  of  land 
for  many  miles  from  the  city  ; .  and  presents  excellent 
and  healthful  sites  for  farms. 

Near  by,  on  the  north  side  of  Canal  and  river,  located 
where  the  Plankroad  crosses  the  O'Plain  river,  is  the  lit 
tle  town  of  LYONS,  a  place  of  note  for  the  great  quantities 
of  good  lime  quarried  and  burned  there — large  portions 
of  which 'are  carried  into  the  city,  over  the  Plankroad,  and 
has  become  a  profitable  business. 

Some  12  or  14  miles  south  of  Chicago,  at  the  mouth 
of  Calumet  river,  there  is  a  new  town  being  built,  of  the 
name  of  the  river.  It  is  laid  out  in  lots,  many  have  been 
sold,  arid  the  place  is  principally  owned  by  men  in  Chicago. 
A  light-house  and  some  other  improvements  have  been 
made;  the  mouth  of  the  river,  with  some  piering  and 
dredge- work,  will  afford  a  tolerable  harbor  and  business 
facilities ;  and  CALUMET  may  yet  become  a  considerable 
city. 

We  have  thus  taken  a  hasty  look  at  the  Lake  Towns  of 
Wisconsin  and  Illinois,  in  a  short  call  upon  them ;  and 
Hiough  we  have  seen  very  much  to  delight  us,  we  shall  be 
hone  the  less  pleased  with  the  interior  towns  and  resources 
of  the  Western  States,  which  we  shall  examine  carefully, 
on  a  tour  through  them,  after  returning  from  a  flying  trip 
of  observation  down  the  Illinois  and  Mississippi  rivers  to 


TRIP    TO    MINNESOTA.  61 

St.  Louis,  in  Missouri ;  and  then,  up  the  latter  river,  to 
Minnesota,  of  which  Territory  I  will  endeavor  to  give  a 
faithful  general  description  ;  in  regard  to  its  topography, 
resources,  business,  curiosities,  and  prospects. 

But  here,  as  in  all  parts  of  the  West,  we  shall  realize 
the  truth  of  the  following  remark :  "  In  describing  Amer 
ican  scenery,  if  we  would  make  our  picture  a  true  one,  we 
must — 

"  «  Catch,  ere  she  change,  the  Cynthia  of  a  minute.'  " 


62  WESTERN    PORTRAITURE. 


TRIP  SECOND— MINNESOTA. 

AT  Chicago  we  take  Canal  Packets,  or  Eailroad  and 
Stages,  for  La  Salle  and  Peru,  southwestward  from  the 
city,  at  the  junction  of  the  Canal  and  Illinois  river,  and 
head  of  steamboat  navigation  on  that  stream ;  though,  in 
seasons  of  high  water,  steamers  run  up  sixteen  miles  far 
ther  to  Ottawa,  where  Fox  river  empties  into  the  Illinois. 

The  length  of  this  Canal  is  about  one  hundred  miles ; 
which  distance  is  usually  run,  by  the  Packets,  in  twenty 
to  twenty-four  hours ;  and  except  when  too  much  crowded 
affords  a  very  pleasant  passage,  as  they  are  comfortable 
and  managed  by  gentlemanly  Officers ;  fare  $4 ;  but  there 
is  a  line  of  freight  and  emigrant  Packets,  which  run 
through  in  a  little  longer  time,  carrying  passengers  with  a 
fair  amount  of  luggage  for  from  $2  to  $3 ;  and  for  a  little 
additional  charge  this  latter  class  of  boats  will  carry 
furniture  and  light  merchandise. 

There  are  also  a  large  number  of  substantial  freight 
and  line  boats,  which  carry  families  much  cheaper,  though 
with  less  comfort,  than  the  Packets,  where  it  is  desired, 
and  where  they  are  in  less  hurry  to  get  through. 

These  Packets  leave  Chicago  and  La  Salle  regularly  at 
morning,  noon,  and  evening  of  each  day.  The  Canal  is 
now  in  operation  its  fourth  year ;  and  the  convenience  of 
travel  caused  by  it,  with  daily  lines  of  good  steamers  on 
the  Illinois  river,  has  diverted  much  of  the  travel  this 
way,  which,  before  its  opening,  sought  the  Ohio  river 
route,  to  Eastern  Summer  Resorts;  though  it  is  now 
thought  less  pleasant  than  the  Illinois  and  Lake  route. 

The  Canal  lies  along  the  fertile  and  picturesque  valley 


THE    CANAL TOWNS LANDS.  63 

of  the  O'Plain  and  Illinois  rivers ;  crossing,  in  its  way  by 
aqueducts,  Aux  Sauble,  Fox,  and  Vermillion  rivers ;  and, 
running  along  under  the  Kankakee  Bluffs,  presents  a  fine 
view  of  the  beautiful  valley  of  that  river,  as  it  stretches 
away  to  the  northeast,  through  good  prairie  lands,  into 
Indiana,  its  shores  skirted  with  strips  of  valuable  timber. 
At  the  junction  of  this  river  with  the  O'Plain,  under  the 
bluffs  (some  fifty  miles  southwest  of  Chicago)  is  what  is 
commonly  called  the  commencement  of  the  Illinois  river, 
these  waters  being  known  by  those  names  only  above  the 
rapids  at  this  junction,  and  as  the  Illinois  below  them. 

The  combination  of  these  singular  and  varied  features 
of  nature  and  art,  at  this  point — rugged  bluffs,  gentle 
slopes,  shady  vales,  fertile  cultivated  prairies,  and  dashing 
streams,  with  the  smooth,  regular,  and  walled  Canal — alto 
gether  render  this  one  of  the  most  delightful  locations  for 
healthy  atmosphere  and  beautiful  prospects  on  the  whole 
route,  from  Chicago  to  St.  Louis. 

There  are  many  thriving  and  handsome  towns,  along 
the  Canal,  containing  from  one  to  four  thousand  popula 
tion  ;  and  which  have  almost  entirely  sprung  up  since  the 
digging  of  the  Canal,  which  has  been  but  a  few  years. 
The  principal  ones  are  Lockport,  Joliet,  Morris,  Ottowa, 
La  Salle,  and  Peru. 

The  lands  along  the  Canal,  for  the  most  part,  are  of  the 
very  best  quality — deep,  sandy  loam,  and  alluvion,  with 
occasional  ridges  of  white  and  yellow  gravel,  spurs  of  lime 
and  sand  rock,  valuable  for  building  and  lime ;  and  fre 
quent  strips  or  tracts  of  marl  and  clay ;  beside  numerous 
extensive  beds  of  good  coal.  The  combination  of  these 
elements  of  wealth,  with  the  great  facilities  which  the  Ca 
nal  furnishes  for  markets,  south  and  east,  to  the  Great 
Lakes  and  the  Mississippi,  gender  it  a  highly  favored  region 
of  country,  and  one  richly  deserving  the  attention  of  the 
emigrant,  whether  farmer,  mechanic,  or  other  business 


64  WESTERN    PORTRAITURE. 

man.  The  Rock  Island,  La  Salle,  and  Chicago  Railroad, 
is  also  to  run  through  this  section ;  and  the  Engineers  are 
already  in  the  field,  making  explorations. 

I  believe  this  project  of  opening  a  Canal  navigation  be 
tween  the  waters  of  Lake  Michigan  and  the  Mississippi, 
was  conceived  in  1823,  not  long  after  the  commencement 
of  the  Erie  Canal.  For  this  work  Congress  made  a  grant 
to  the  State  of  Illinois  of  each  alternate  section  of  govern 
ment  land,  within  a  space  of  five  miles  each  side  of  the  line 
of  the  Canal.  In  1823  a  Board  of  Commissioners,  with  En 
gineers,  explored  the  route  and  made  an  estimate  of  cost 
required  to  construct  the  work.  In  1829  a  new  Board  of 
Commissioners  was  appointed,  who  made  a  new  survey 
and  estimate,  and  several  towns  along  the  line  were  laid 
off,  and  lots  sold.  In  the  winter  of  1835-G,  the  Illinois 
Legislature  passed  an  act  for  the  construction  of  this  Ca 
nal,  under  the  title  of  the  "Illinois  and  Michigan  Canal." 
The  following  are  the  dimensions  of  the  work,  viz.  :  seventy 
feet  wide  at  the  top,  thirty-six  at  the  bottom,  and  six  feet 
deep. 

The  expense  of  the  construction  of  this  stupendous  en 
terprise  is  to  be  met  from  the  proceeds  of  the  sales  of  this 
vast  tract  of  land,  ten  miles  wide,  granted  by  Congress  for 
that  purpose. 

It  was  a  truly  vast  undertaking,  for  a  young  state,  but 
it  is  now  completed,  and  doing  an  immense  business ;  and 
beside  its  inestimable  advantages  to  the  State,  it  possesses 
great  national  importance,  being  greatly  beneficial  to  East, 
West,  and  South.  A  traveler  through  Illinois,  in  1837, 
writes  as  follows : 

"  PKRU  is  situated  on  the  Illinois  river,  at  the  head  of  river  navi 
gation,  and  is  the  point  of  termination  of  the  Illinois  and  Michigan 
Canal.  This  Canal,  when  completed,  will  be  one  of  the  most 
splendid  projects  of  internal  improvements  in  the  Union.  It  unites 
the  Mississippi  with  our  Inland  Seas,  and  the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence 
with  the  Gulf  of  Mexico." 


CANAL    LANDS TOLLS,  ETC.  65 

Of  these  Canal  Lands,  mostly  a  fine  quality  of  prairie, 
with  occasional  groves  of  timber — considerable  quantities 
have  been  sold  since  the  completion  of  the  Canal,  but 
large  portions  yet  remain  in  market ;  which  are  offered  for 
sale,  at  Auction,  in  May  of  each  year,  the  appraised  value — • 
ranging  from  $2.50  to  $10,  and  upward,  per  acre — being 
in  all  cases  the  minimum  or  first  bid.  The  sales  now  take 
place  at  Chicago,  though  formerly  they  were  held  at  dif 
ferent  places  along  the  route.  The  Canal  Company  also 
have  some  fine  land's  in  the  "  Rock  River  country,"  which 
are  subject  to  the  same  manner  of  sales. 

The  whole  amount  of  land  granted  for  this  Canal,  and 
which  came  into  the  hands  of  the  Trustees,  was  230,000 
acres;  amount  sold  up  to  the  spring  of  1851,  70,000;  re 
maining  to  be  sold,  160,000. 

The  whole  amount  of  Tolls  received  on  this  Canal  for 
the  present  year,  up  to  November  1st,  was  $149,562, 
being  a  considerable  increase  upon  any  previous  year. 

Of  this  Company,  Captain  SWIFT,  of  Springfield,  is  Presi 
dent  ;  and  Hon.  DAVIT  LEAVITT,  of  New  York,  Treasurer. 

The  whole  amount  of  Produce  shipped  at  Chicago 
during  the  same  period — much  of  it  received  by  Canal — 
was,  of  wheat,  226,060  bushels ;  of  flour,  33,245  barrels ; 
corn,  2,237,975  bushels;  oats,  551,483  bushels.  This  is 
also  a  large  increase  upon  the  amount  shipped  previous 
years,  during  the  same  months.  In  addition  to  this,  there 
have  been  large  quantities  of  beef,  pork,  lard,  and  tallow 
shipped ;  together  with  many  hundred  heads  of  live  cattle, 
which  has  not  been  the  case  in  previous  seasons. 

In  passing  over  this  route  the  traveler  will  see  many 
finely  cultivated  farms,  much  well-bred  and  fed  stock, 
and  some  good  orchards,  though  in  this  latter  luxury,  I 
regret  to  see  far  too  little  attention  paid  by  settlers,  gen 
erally,  though  there  are  pleasant  exceptions  in  some 
regions. 


66  WESTERN    PORTRAITURE, 

Here,  as  in  the  West  generally,  the  industrious,  judi 
cious,  down-east  farmer,  can  derive  twice  as  much  produce 
and  profit  for  his  economy  and  toil,  as  is  the  usual  reward 
received  for  the  same  effort  in  the  old  states. 

The  several  counties  through  which  the  Canal  passes, 
are — 

Cook,  of  which  CHICAGO  is  the  county-seat.  Though 
the  land  in  this  county  is  what  is  often  denominated  prai 
rie,  still  most  of  it  differs  from  the  true  prairies  of  the 
West ;  it  is  more  flat  and  level,  and  should  properly  be 
called  savannahs,  partaking  more  of  the  characteristics  of 
that  description  of  surface — nearly  resembling  the  savan 
nahs  along  the  ocean  and  gulfs — than  the  Western  prai 
ries.  They  are,  however,  excellent  lands  for  tillage, 
gardens,  fruits,  etc.,  and  afford  the  finest  of  meadows. 
The  soil  is  mostly  a  sandy  loam,  alluvial,  with  traces  of 
marl,  and  of  one  to  three  feet  depth,  supported  on  a 
heavy  clay  sub-soil.  Population  of  Cook  county,  43,385  ; 
dwellings,  7,674;  farms,  1,857;  manufactories,  227. 

Dupage  county  comes  next,  of  which  NAPERVILLE  is  the 
county-seat,  a  fine  flourishing  village,  of  near  2,000  popu 
lation,  situated  on  the  Dupage  river,  which  furnishes  a 
good  water-power,  and  sixteen  miles  from  the  Canal.  This 
is  a  new  county,  containing  much  excellent  land,  similar 
to  that  of  the  Fox  River  country.  Population,  9.290; 
dwellings,  1,568;  farms,  1,175;  manufactories,  38. 

Will  county  is  unsurpassed  by  any  in  this  range,  for  the 
good  quality  of  its  lands,  or  the  perfection  of  its  improve 
ments,  elegant  farms,  and  fine  stock,  fruits,  etc.  There  is  a 
farming  community  in  one  portion  of  this  county,  near 
Lockport,  known  as  the  "  Yankee  Settlement ;"  which,  for 
well-cultivated,  productive  farms,  and  as  good  livers,  will 
compare  favorably  with  many  settlements  in  the  land 
from  which  their  cognomen  is  derived.  Population, 
16,703  ;  dwellings,  2,796  ;  farms,  1,200  ;  manufac.  94. 


.       JOLIET LOCKPORT GRUNDY    CO. MORRIS.  67 

The  county-seat  of  Will  is  JOLIET,  a  vigorous,  pros 
pering,  and  beautiful  village,  of  some  3,000  population. 
The  O'Plain  and  Canal  run  through  this  village,  and  afford 
valuable  water-power,  which  is  considerably  occupied  with 
cloth  factories,  mills,  etc.  Superior  building  stone  is 
quarried  here  in  abundance. 

The  next  most  important  village  in  this  county  is  LOCK- 
PORT,  five  miles  from  the  county-seat.  It  is  equal  in 
beauty  of  location  and  improvement  with  any  town  on 
the  route,  and  contains  about  2,000  population.  It  pos 
sesses  extensive  water-power,  and  good  stone  quarries. 
Here  is  located  the  General  Office  of  business  for  the 
Canal  Company  and  its  Lands. 

Grundy  comes  next,  and  is  one  of  the  new  counties. 
It  is  equal  to  Will  in  the  natural  excellence  of  its  lands, 
though  not,  as  yet,  so  extensively  cultivated ;  still,  it  pre 
sents  some  wTell-improved  farms,  with  a  fair  show  of  good 
stock.  In  some  places  good  building  stone  is  quarried, 
and  numerous  coal  beds  have  been  opened.  The  Illinois 
and  Aux  Sable  rivers  run  through  this  county.  Popula 
tion,  3,023  ;  dwellings,  543  ;  farms,  327 ;  manufac.  7. 

MORRIS,  is  the  county-seat,  and  has  enjoyed  as  rapid 
growth,  since  the  completion  of  the  Canal,  as  any  town 
through  which  it  passes  ;  while  its  delightful  location  is 
unsurpassed  by  any  village  on  the  line,  having  a  smooth 
and  gently  inclining  surface  toward  the  Canal  and  river ; 
with  pleasant  groves  on  two  sides,  and  rich  prairies  spread 
ing  away  to  considerable  distance  in  the  two  other  direc 
tions.  Although  of  but  few  years  age,  its  population  is 
now  nearly  1,000.  As  in  the  other  towns  named,  there 
is  at  Morris  a  Newspaper,  and  a  Telegraph  office.  Joliet 
and  Ottowa  have  two  newspapers  each,  and  Lockport,  La 
Salle,  and  Peru  one  each. 

The  last  county,  through  which  the  Canal  passes,  is  La 
Salle.  For  its  good  lands  and  farms,  its  coal,  stone,  tim- 


68  \VESTERN    PORTRAITURE. 

ber,  and  water-powers  this  is  a  rich  and  important  county. 
It  is  watered  by  the  Illinois,  Fox,  and  Vermillion  rivers. 
Pop.  17,815;  dwellings,  3,075;  farms,  1,336;  manuf.  46. 

OTTOWA,  the  county-seat,  is  a  beautiful  and  flourishing 
village  of  some  3,500  population ;  it  is  situated  on  the 
Canal  at  the  junction  of  the  Fox  and  Illinois  rivers,  which 
cut  deep  channels  through  the  sand  rock,  Fox  river  having 
perpendicular  banks  from  15  to  25  feet  high.  This  rock 
is  easily  crushed,  and  is  composed  of  pure  white  or  crystal 
sand,  which  is  an  admirable  material  for  making  the  finest 
glass  ;  and  if  as  skillfully  wrought,  no  doubt  would  equal 
the  splendid  Bohemian  glass.  Here  is  also  a  fine  water- 
power. 

The  surface  of  the  land  and  the  scenery,  at  this  point, 
are  very  singular;  there  being  two  platteaus  to  the  bluffs 
or  banks  of  the  river ;  one,  a  rounded  smooth  slope  or 
small  hill  lying  from  half  to  three  quarters  of  a  mile  from 
the  river,  leaving  a  level  plain  or  interval  of  that  width 
between,  some  20  to  25  feet  above  the  river,  with  parts 
gradually  descending,  and  others  perpendicular.  On  this 
plain  is  built  the  village  and  runs  the  Canal.  Ottowa  is 
laid  out  and  built  with  considerable  taste  and  beauty. 
The  Bluff  on  the  south  side  of  Illinois  river  is  a  grand  po 
sition,  and  overlooks  a  picturesque  and  lovely  prospect 
for  many  miles. 

The  route  of  16  miles  from  here  to  the  village  of  La 
Salic  is  marked  with  much  romantic  scenery,  and  remem 
bered  for  strange  Indian  legendary  connected  with  the 
high,  rough,  rocky  bluffs  of  the  Illinois,  among  which  are, 
Lover's  Leap,  Starved  Rock,  Buffalo  Rock,  etc.,  which  af 
ford  thrilling  stories  and  fruitful  themes  for  the  romancer 
and  poet.  There  are  also,  near  by,  some  valuable  mineral 
springs,  which  might  be  improved  to  advantage,  and  be 
come  favorite  resorts. 

PERU  and  LA  SALLE,  are  two  growing  villages,  located 


PERU LA    SALLE ISLAND PRAIRIES.  69 

at  the  junction  of  the  Canal  with  Illinois  river ;  and  lie 
about  one  mile  apart,  but  their  rapid  growth  is  such,  and 
the  land  being  so  favorable,  the  intermediate  space  wrill 
undoubtedly  soon  be  all  built  over,  and  the  whole  become 
one  large  city.  This  being  the  point  of  union  between 
Canal  and  River  navigation,  and  the  eastern  terminus  of 
the  newly  projected  Railroad  from  the  Mississippi  river  at 
Rock  Island,  must  speedily  become  a  place  of  great  com 
mercial  importance ;  and  in  the  opinion  of  the  writer,  will 
ere  long,  rank  and  continue  to  be  not  less  than  the  fifth 
city,  for  wealth  and  population,-  in  the  state,  following  in 
grade  the  cities  of  Chicago,  Alton,  Rock  Island,  and 
Galena. 

Peru  and  La  Salle  are  pleasantly  situated — the  business 
portions  being  mostly  down  by  the  water,  and  the  resir 
deuces  on  the  high  and  airy  bluffs  above,  which  overlook 
a  rich  varied  stretch  of  country,  in  different  directions, 
along  the  river  and  prairies. 

In  the  river,  fronting  Peru,  is  a  rich  alluvial  island, 
which  is  highly  cultivated,  producing  large  crops  and  heavy 
grass ;  but  in  times  of  high  freshets,  much  of  the  island 
is  inundated.  On  the  side  beyond  the  town,  but  a  narrow 
channel  or  slew  divides  the  island  from  the  mainland,  the 
navigable  channel  being  next  to  the  town,  where  the 
largest  steamers  can  float  or  lie  with  convenience;  be 
tween  Canal  and  River,  is  a  channel  cut,  of  requisite  di 
mensions  for  Steamboats  to  pass. 

The  prairies,  back  of  these  towns,  on  the  route  toward 
Rock  river,  are  exceedingly  rich  and  delightful ;  and  from 
in  June  till  September  and  into  October,  present  a  great 
variety  of  fragrant  and  many-tinted  flowers,  which  load 
the  breezes  with  their  odors.  This  is,  in  fact,  true  of  all 
prairies  and  groves  in  the  West — 

"  Boon  nature  scattered  free  and  wild, 
Each  plant  or  flower,  the  mountain's  child ; 


70  WESTERN    PORTRAITURE. 

Here  eglantine  embalmed  the  air, 
The  hawthoriie  and  hazle  mingled  there; 
The  primrose  pale  and  violet  flower, 
Found  in  each  glen  a  bower." 

The  O'Rielly  Telegraph  line,  from  Chicago  to  St.  Louis, 
passes  through  the  towns  along  the  Canal ;  thence  down 
the  Illinois  river,  branching  off  to  several  interior  towns, 
as  SPRINGFIELD,  the  State  capital,  Beardstown,  Jackson 
ville,  Eushville,  and  some  other  towns  ;  and  then  through 
Alton,  spanning  the  Mississippi  from  Illinoistown  into  St. 
Louis. 

From  Peru  there  is  a  branch  of  this  Telegraph  line, 
running  through  Dixon,  to  Galena,  thence  to  Dubuque,  in 
Iowa ;  and  here  it  branches  off  into  Wisconsin,  through 
Grant  and  Iowa  counties. 

Thus,  we  see  the  West  is  strung  in  all  directions  with 
these  communicative  lightning  wires,  which  have  convert 
ed  the  whole  canopy  above  us  into  one  universal  whisper 
ing  gallery  of  news  and  gossip,  from  all  quarters  of  the 
continent ;  while  Mr.  O'Rielly  and  others,  have  a  project 
in  agitation,  for  continuing  these  lines  to  Texas  and  Cali 
fornia. 

It  is  not  very  extravagant,  when  contemplated  in  the 
light  of  what  has  been  accomplished,  with  steam  and  elec 
tricity  during  the  last  quarter  of  a  century,  to  predict  that 
before  the  expiration  of  ten  years — perhaps  in  five — we 
shall  see  a  Railroad  and  Telegraph  in  successful  operation 
from  the  Atlantic  to  the  Pacific ;  either  through  the  in 
strumentality  of  our  own  nation  or  by  the  British  govern 
ment. 

Should  our  Government  commence  building  such  a  Tel 
egraph  and  Railroad,  and  make  a  proposition  to  laborers 
that  they  would  give  them  even  small  wages  in  money, 
say  ten  dollars  per  month,  more  or  less,  beside  board ; 
and  in  addition  give  to  each  man  who  should  work  a  year 
160  acres,  or  a  quarter  section,  of  land;  to  those  who 


RAILROAD    AND    STAGE    ROUTE.  71 

should  work  half  a  year,  half  that  amount ;  and  in  the 
same  proportion  for  any  time  ;  the  land  to  be  selected 
from  any  government  lands  on  the  line  and  not  nearer 
than  one  mile  of  the  road ;  should  the  Government  take 
this  course,  or  some  similar  one,  they  undoubtedly  could 
build  the  whole  line  in  five  years  with  very  little  diffi 
culty  ;  and  there  is  very  little  doubt,  that  as  soon  as  any 
part  of  the  Road  was  built,  beyond  the  Missouri  river, 
either  at  Council  Bluffs,  or  Weston,  or  some  other  suitable 
point,  it  would  begin  to  pay  for  itself,  in  the  lands  it 
would  cause  to  be  sold,  together  with  the  business  it 
should  create  in  carrying  emigrants  and  their  merchandise 
out,  and  bringing  back  the  produce  they  should  raise. 

There  is  another  very  comfortable  medium  of  convey 
ance  from  Chicago  to  the  Illinois  river,  which  travelers  can 
take,  if  they  wish ;  which  requires  about  the  same  length 
of  time,  with  the  same  price  of  fare  as  the  Canal  route.  At 
the  former  place,  you  take  the  cars  of  the  Chicago  and 
Galena  Railroad,  to  Aurora,  some  forty  miles;  thence, 
stages  to  Ottowa,  where  you  again  take  the  Packets  to  the 
river. 

This  Railroad  and  Stage  route  passes  over  a  varied, 
beautiful,  and  fertile  tract  of  country,  consisting  of  rolling 
prairies  and  scattered  groves ;  with  numerous  well-tilled 
farms,  good  buildings,  fences,  etc.  That  portion  traveled 
by  Railroad  crosses  the  O'Plain,  Dupage,  and  Fox  rivers, 
with  many  smaller  streams ;  which  drain  a  section  of  prai 
ries  and  timbered  lands,  not  surpassed  by  any  in  the  state. 
And  that  portion  traveled  by  the  Stages,  mostly  lies  along 
the  valley  of  the  Fox  river,  so  famous  for  its  rich  lands, 
fine  stone  quarries,  coal  beds,  timber,  and  useful  water- 
powers,  already  very  extensively  occupied  by  mills,  facto 
ries,  and  machinery  generally ;  surrounded  and  sustained 
by  communities  of  industrious,  forehanded,  and  intelligent 
farmers. 


WESTERN    PORTRAITURE. 

The  Fox  RIVER  COUNTRY,  as  it  is  called,  is  noted  as  be 
ing  one  of  the  best  agricultural  districts  in  the  state ;  and 
as  well  advanced  in  improvement  as  any.  This  river  takes 
its  rise  in  the.  State  of  Wisconsin,  and  runs  nearly  a  south 
ern  direction,  till  it  empties  into  Illinois  river  at  Ottowa. 
In  several  of  the  towns  on  this  river  there  are  good  paper 
mills. 

That  distinguishing  characteristic  of  the  States  of  Illinois, 
Iowa,  and  Wisconsin — prairie,  or  timberless  land — may  be 
seen  in  its  fullest  or  most  perfect  aspect,  by  a  journey 
along  this  river.  I  transcribe  the  following  remarks,  upon 
Prairies,  from  an  intelligent  writer  who  traversed  the  West 
ern  States  in  1837,  as  being  a  more  happy  description  than 
I  can  write : 

"  Prairie  is  a  French  word,  signifying  meadow,  and  is  applied 
to  any  land  that  is  "destitute  of  timber  and  brush,  and  clothed  with 
grass  ;  wet,  dry,  level,  and  rolling  are  terms  of  description  merely, 
and  apply  to  prairies  in  the  same  sense  as  they  do  to  forest  lands. 
Of  those  prairies  these  lines  of  the  poet  are  truly  descriptive  : 

"  'Travelers,  ent'ring  here,  behold  around 

The  large  and  spacious  plain  on  every  side, 
Strewed  with  beauty,  whose  fair,  grassy  ground, 
Mantled  with  green  and  richly  beautified  !' 

"  Their  soil  is  deep,  friable,  and  of  exhaustless  fertility  ;  excel 
lent,  in  apposite  latitudes,  for  wheat,  maize,  etc.  ;  grapes,  hitherto, 
have  not  been  much  cultivated ;  yet,  as  wild  ones  grow  luxuriantly, 
it  can  hardly  be  doubted  that  a  hybridous  species,  formed  from  a 
union  of  one  of  these  natives  and  the  exotic  vine,  would  prove  pro 
lific  of  estimable  fruit.  From  May  to  October,  the  prairies  are 
covered  with  rank  grass  and  flowering  weeds.  In  June  and  July, 
they  seem  like  an  ocean  of  flowers  of  various  hues,  waving  to  the 
breezes  that  sweep  over  them.  The  numerous  tall  towering  vege 
tables  which  grow  luxuriantly  over  these  plains,  present  a  striking 
and  delightful  appearance." 

In  the  ROCK  RIVER  COUNTRY,  which  lies  parallel  to  and 
west  of  Fox  river,  the  prairies  are  very  similar  in  all 
their  characteristics,  in  fact  of  the  same  excellence,  while 


PRAIRIE    GARDENS WESTERN    FARMS.  73 

they  are  generally  larger,  extending  often  at  much  greater 
distance  without  the  interruption  of  timber. 

But  the  various  Railroads  already  under  way,  and  speed 
ily  to  penetrate  these  immense  fields — carrying  to  them 
all  the  facilities  of  business,  as  lumber  and  machinery,  with 
the  necessary  merchandise,  and  bringing  back  their  rich 
and  abundant  products — will  place  them  at  once  before  the 
gates  of  the  great  Seaboard  Markets,  where  they  will  be 
welcomed  as  the  granaries  and  bountiful  larders  for  the 
millions  of  mechanical  and  commercial  operatives  whom 
they  will  feed. 

And  there  are  yet  thousands  of  acres  of  these  luxuriant 
lands,  now  for  sale,  in  favorable  and  pleasant  locations,  at 
the  low  price  of  one  dollar  and  a  quarter  per  acre.  Noth 
ing  can  be  more  true  than  the  following  lines  from  one  of 
nature's  noblest  adorers : 

"These  are  the  Gardens  of  the  desert — these 
The  unshorn  fields — boundless  and  beautiful, 
And  fresh  as  the  young  earth  ere  man  h.id  sinned. 
The  Prairies  !     I  behold  them  the  first  time, 
And  my  heait  swells,  while  the  dilated  sight 
Takes  in  the  encircling  vastness.1' — BRYANT. 

We  say,  then,  to  the  mechanic,  pent  up  in  dense,  suffo 
cating  city  or  crowded  town,  who  can  scarcely  breathe  free 
and  pure  breaths,  for  want  of  room,  or  toil  freely,  and 
pleasantly,  and  profitably,  from  the  austere  and  selfish 
dictation  of  many  arrogant  employers,  and  who  derive  at 
least  three  fourths  of  the  profits  of  your  labor ;  to  such  I 
say,  come  to  the  fresh  and  fruitful  West,  where  you  may 
easily  have  an  independent  and  pleasant  home. 

To  the  young  farmer,  who  toils  the  long,  hot  days,  for 
the  paltry  sum  of  ten  or  a  dozen  dollars  per  month ;  or  to 
him  who  rents  land,  returning  to  others  the  "  lion's  share  " 
of  all  the  products  of  his  industry — to  all,  who  would  bet 
ter  their  condition,  rejuvenate  their  lives,  and  regain  new 
energies  under  brightened  incentives — to  such  I  say,  con- 
7  * 


74  WESTERN    PORTRAITURE. 

fidently  and  in  a  lively  friendship,  come  and  appropriate 
to  yourselves  any  necessary  and  proper  amount  of  "  these 
Gardens,  boundless  and  beautiful,"  which  you  can,  so  many 
of  you,  easily  do. 

They  will  return  you  a  greater  yield  of  crops,  for  less 
labor,  and  then  you  can  obtain  prices  but  little  under 
Eastern  markets,  transportation  is  now  so  cheap  and 
speedy ;  which,  as  I  have  said  elsewhere,  in  fact  renders 
these  Western  lands  as  valuable  as  those  of  the  East. 

Although  the  same  thorough  and  careful  system  of 
farming  will  succeed  in  different  locations,  to  a  reasonably 
fair  extent ;  as  for  instance,  the  same  general  practice  that 
works  well  in  the  Genesee  Country,  will  result  the  same 
in  Connecticut ;  and  the  same  management  of  soils  and 
crops  which  produces  well  in  the  Eastern  States  will  also 
produce  tolerably  well  on  the  Western  Prairies,  as  a  gen 
eral  thing;  but  yet,  a  still  different  and  peculiar  system 
or  science  is  required  in  the  management  of  the  Prairies  to 
make  them  yield  their  greatest  constant  profit ;  there  are 
some  characteristics  about  their  soils,  and  the  principles  of 
cropping  upon  them,  which  are  different  and  distinct  from 
any  other  in  our  country,  and  which  require  different 
treatment  than  is  practiced  by  farmers  of  any  other  re 
gion  ;  these  facts  it  would  be  well  for  farmers  at  the  West, 
or  going  there,  to  understand. 

The  writer  of  this  is  preparing  a  work — which  will  be 
shortly  published — upon  Scientific  Farming ;  the  applica 
tion  of  Chemistry,  Geology,  and  Meteorology  to  Agricul 
ture,  generally ;  but  the  work  is  particularly  devoted  to 
the  best  mode  of  tilling  the  Prairie  Soils,  and  securing 
crops  from  them — the  application  of  these  sciences  to  their 
peculiarities. 

In  cases  where  the  ordinary  crops  produced  on  plow- 
lands  should  fail,  as  they  often  do,  in  the  Eastern  as  in  the 
Western  country,  the  growing  of  Flax  and  Hemp  is  a  for- 


FLAX HEMP FIRES.  75 

tunate  and  profitable  expedient  to  prevent  the  cultivator 
of  the  soil  from  realizing  that  uncomfortable  exclamation 
that  "all  is  lost;"  as  these  are  very  sure  crops,  that  very 
rarely  ever  fail. 

The  Prairies  have  been  proved  to  be  peculiarly  favora 
ble  to  the  growth  of  Flax ;  and  particularly,  since  the  im 
portant  and  useful  discoveries  and  inventions  by  Doctor 
LEAVITT,  and  others — of  the  science  and  art  of  converting 
it  into  rich  and  beautiful  fabrics,  at  small  cost — does  this 
article  become  highly  interesting  to  the  agriculturist,  and 
the  public  generally.  The  culture  of  this  crop  is  now 
eliciting  a  lively  attention  which  it  has  never  before  ob 
tained  in  this  country.  It  is  probably  second  only  to  the 
wheat  crop  in  importance  to  the  farmers  of  our  country, 
and  especially  of  the  West. 

A  good  article  of  Flax  Seed,  of  approved  varieties,  is 
much  wanted  in  the  Prairie  Country ;  and  should  emi 
grants  take  quantities  with  them,  they  will  not  find  it  come 
amiss.  This  seed  always  commands  a  good  price  at  St. 
Louis,  Chicago,  and  Milwaukee. 

From  "  Illinois  in  1837,"  I  make  the  following  ex 
tracts,  in  relation  to  the  fires  on  the  prairies,  and  their 
origin : 

"  On  the  origin  of  the  prairie  lands  it  is  difficult  to  decide ; 
various  speculations  have  arisen  on  the  subject,  giving  rise  to  a 
diversity  of  opinions.  The  level  surface  (according  to  the  ideas 
of  many)  was  formed  by  inundations.  The  whole  of  the  State 
(Illinois),  from  a  few  miles  north  of  the  Ohio  river,  where  the  prai 
ries  commence,  affords  tolerably  conclusive  evidence  of  having  been 
once  covered  with  water,  forming,  probably,  a  large  lake,  similar 
to  Lake  Michigan,  etc." 

•  "  From  whatever  cause  the  prairies  at  first  originated,  they  are 
undoubtedly  perpetuated  by  the  fires  that  have  annually  swept 
over  them,  from  an  era  probably  long  anterior  to  the  earliest  records 
of  our  history." 

"  It  is  well  known,  that  in  the  richest  and  most  dry,  level  tracts, 
the  aboriginal  inhabitants,  before  they  had  the  use  of  f  re-arms, 


76  WESTERN     PORTRAITURE. 

were  in  the  habit  of  inclosing  their  game  in  circular  fires,  in  order 
that  it  might  frighten  and  bewilder  the  animals,  and  thus  render 
them  an  easy  prey." 

"  The  Indians  and  hunters  annually  set  fire  to  the  prairies,  in 
order  to  dislodge  the  game ;  the  fire  spreads  with  tremendous 
rapidity,  presenting  one  of  the  grandest  and  most  terrible  specta 
cles  in  nature.  The  flames  rush  through  the  long  grass,  with  a 
noise  like  thunder ;  dense  clouds  of  smoke  arise ;  and  the  sky  itself 
appears  almost  on  fire,  particularly  during  the  night.  Travelers 
then  crossing  the  prairies  are  sometimes  in  danger,  which  they  can 
only  escape  by  setting  fire  to  the  grass  around,  and  taking  shelter 
in  the  burnt  part,  where  the  approaching  flame  will  expire  for  want 
of  fuel.  Most  melancholy  is  the  aspect  of  a  burnt  prairie,  present 
ing  a  uniform  black  surface,  like  a  vast  plain  of  charcoal." 

Often  I  have,  before  now,  watched  the  crackling  and 
roaring  fire  as  it  passed,  with  the  mighty  winds,  over  these 
bright  and  graceful  meadows,  for  hours  in  the  night,  the 
whole  scene  one  of  light,  life,  and  excitement ;  when  sud 
denly,  the  combustible  matter  being  all  consumed,  the 
flames  cease,  all  is  dark,  deathly-silent,  with  the  black  pall 
of  destruction  spread  like  a  universal  vail  of  mourning  upon 
the  earth ;  and,  of  all  spectacles  in  the  world,  this  is  the 
most  perfect  exhibition  of  desolation,  and  at  once  realizes 
to  one  the  fullest  sensation  of  despair  imaginable. 

Now,  to  return  from  this  descriptive  digression,  we  will 
pursue  our  journey  to  St.  Louis,  and  thence  to  Iowa  and 
Minnesota. 

At  Peru  we  take  passage  on  board  the  Illinois  river 
steamboats,  which  run  to  St.  Louis,  a  distance  of  about 
311  miles,  in  twenty  to  thirty  hours;  fare  $3  to  $5. 

Immediately  along  the  Illinois  river  the  lands,  generally, 
are  low,  rich,  sometimes  wet,  and  heavily  timbered  writh 
elm,  oak,  walnut,  linn,  pawpaw,  locust,  sycamore,  and  many 
other  varieties  ;  valuable  for  lumber,  building,  and  fencing. 
This  region  will  be  more  fully  described  hereafter  in  far 
ther  remarks  upon  the  counties  of  the  State,  when  they  will 
be  portrayed  in  alphabetical  order. 


THE    ILLINOIS    EIVER    COUNTRY.  77 

The  principal  towns  and  cities  which  we  shall  pass,  along 
the  river,  on  our  way  to  St.  Louis,  are,  Hennepin,  Henry, 
Lacon,  Chillicothe,  Eome,  PEORIA,  Pekin,  Beardstown, 
Meredosia,  Naples,  Columbia,  Grafton,  and  ALTON.  These 
places  will  all  be  more  minutely  described,  with  the  coun 
ties  in  which  they  are  located.  Peoria  and  Alton  are  flour 
ishing  and  elegant  cities — the  former  of  about  7,000,  and 
the  latter  some  14,000  population. 

The  country  drained  by  the  Illinois  river,  and  its  tribu 
taries,  on  both  sides,  presents  a  greater  variety  of  soil  and 
surface  than,  perhaps,  any  other  in  the  state.  Its  rich  al 
luvial  and  heavy  timbered  bottoms ;  the  intervals  between 
these  and  the,  highest  prairies,  combined  with  these  dry 
undulating  meadows,  and  all  within  sight  of  the  river  at 
many  points — a  convenient  contiguity  of  heavy  forests, 
rich  grass  and  corn  lands,  and  dry  clover  and  wheat  soils 
— entitle  this  district  to  be  reckoned  among  the  very  best 
in  the  "  Sucker  State;"  and  in  it  there  is  still  considerable 
government  land  for  sale. 

In  the  opinion  of  some,  this  soil  and  climate  are  more 
favorable  to  the  tender  varieties  of  fruit,  and  the  greatest 
growth  of  corn ;  yet,  it  is  contended  that  Rock  and  Fox 
river  Countries  are  better  adapted  to  wheat  and  flax  than 
that  on  the  Illinois  ;  with  reasonable  culture  and  atten 
tion,  both  are  so  sure  and  bountiful,  in  their  products,  that 
after  all  little  or  no  difference  will  be  perceived ;  and  what 
little  advantage  one  region  may  sometimes  present  over 
the  other,  is  found  really  to  result  much  from  superior 
tillage  and  management.  Fruits,  flax,  grain,  cattle,  and 
sheep,  in  all  parts,  will  do  full  as  well,  if  not  better,  than  in 
Western  New  York  and  New  England,  as  the  climate 
west  is  milder,  and  the  seasons  longer. 

From  Peru  to  Peoria  the  distance  is  77  miles ;  to 
Pekin,  10 ;  to  Beardstown,  84 ;  to  Naples,  26 ;  to  Alton, 
90;  and  to  St.  Louis,  24;  in  all,  311  miles  from  St. 


78  WESTERN    PORTRAITURE. 

Louis  to  Peru ;  and  100  more  from  there  to  Chicago;  and 
fare  the  whole  distance  is  $5  to  $9. 

From  St.  Louis,  Mo.,  there  are  regular  Steam  Packets,  up 
the  Mississippi,  to  Keokuk,  in  Iowa ;  to  Galena,  in  Illinois, 
to  Potosi,  in  Wisconsin ;  and  from  Galena  and  Dubuque 
there  are  semi- weekly  lines  of  Steamboats  running  to  St. 
Pauls  and  Stillwater,  in  Minnesota;  with  an  occasional 
small  steamer  running  up  the  Wisconsin  river,  for  many 
miles,  to  the  Lumber  Region,  in  good  stages  of  water. 

After  leaving  St.  Louis,  for  a  voyage  up  the  Missis 
sippi,  the  first  city  we  reach  is  HANNIBAL,  in  Missouri,  a 
place  of  near  4,000  population,  with  some  fine  blocks  of 
buildings,  and  considerable  business;  but  it. palpably  feels 
and  shows  the  blight  of  the  unpaid,  compulsory  labor 
system,  which  prevails  in  that  State ;  and,  as  in  Kentucky 
and  Virginia,  it  surely  prevents  equal  growth  and  enter 
prise,  to  what  exists  in  the  Free  States,  on  the  opposite 
sides  of  the  great  rivers;  notwithstanding  the  Slave  States 
have  the  advantage,  in  most  instances,  in  point  of  climate, 
soil,  and  other  natural  facilities. 

Still  up  about  13  miles  is  the  lovely,  neat,  and  thriving 
city  of  QUINCY,  on  the  Illinois  side,  with  a  good  levee ;  it 
is  the  county-seat  of  Adams  county,  with  a  population  of 
over  6,000 ;  with  many  superb  buildings,  green  parks, 
shaded  walks ;  and,  as  its  name  indicates,  an  intelligent 
Yankee  community ;  every  thing  being  done  in  real  down 
East  style,  however,  with  more  of  life  and  energy  than  is 
found  in  towns  of  the  same  size  in  New  England.  Large 
amounts  of  Pork  are  yearly  packed  here. 

The  county  contains  much  very  excellent  land,  well 
watered,  and  many  finely  cultivated  farms.  There  is  still 
some  very  good  land  here  for  sale,  at  government  price. 
Great  quantities  of  corn,  and  other  grain,  are  raised  in  this 
county.  Pop.  26,508;  dwell.  4,459;  farms,  2,294;  m.  118. 

Next,  at  some  40  miles  above,  is  WARSAW,  well  located, 


CHURCHVILLE KEOKUK LEE  COUNTY.  '      79 

on  the  river,  in  Hancock  county.  It  has  a  good  landing, 
is  doing  considerable  business,  and  surrounded  by  a  good 
farming  country.  Com  and  Pork  are  the  principal  articles 
of  export  from  this  point,  and  amount  to  an  extensive  bu 
siness.  Pop.  14,652;  dwell.  2,585  ;  farms,  1,167  ;Wn.  43. 

Directly  opposite  to  here,  in  the  state  of  Missouri,  are 
the  villages  of  CHURCHVILLE  and  ALEXANDRIA,  near  the 
mouth  of  Des  Moines  river.  There  is  some  business 
done  here  in  Pork  packing ;  but  the  land  lies  too  low, 
often  inundated ;  and  the  same  drawback,  by  which  Han 
nibal  suffers,  also  prevails  here. 

We  now  reach  the  state  of  Iowa,  which  lies  west  of  the 
Mississippi. 

The  first  city  is  KEOKUK,  six  miles  above  Warsaw.  It 
is  situated  in  Lee  county,  on  the  Mississippi,  at  the  foot 
of  the  Lower  Rapids,  and  contains  about  4,000  popula 
tion,  though  it  has  but  recently  commenced  growing.  It 
has  a  good  landing  and  levee.  Near  here  is  the  mouth  of 
the  Des  Moines  river,  up  which  valley  a  Canal  is  being 
built,  and  is  somewhat  advanced. 

In  his  book,  of  1848,  GEORGE  B.  SARGENT,  Esq.,  says 
of  Lee  county  and  Keokuk,  (from  the  name  of  a  distin 
guished  chief)  : 

"  Lee  is  the  southernmost  county  of  the  state ;  it  is  well  watered, 
and  the  general  quality  of  the  soil  is  as  good  as  any  in  Iowa. 
Keokuk,  the  most  thriving  town,  is  the  depot  of  a  large  extent  of 
back  country,  and  must  eventually  make  a  place  of  great  import 
ance."  '  There  is  a  fine  opportunity  here  for  creating  an  avail 
able  water-power.  A  Railroad  is  in  contemplation  from  this  thriv 
ing  town,  via  Fairfield,  Oskaloosa,  Pella,  and  Monroe  City,  to  Fort 
DCS  Moines.  It  is  proposed,  also,  to  construct  a  Railroad  between 
Keokuk  and  Dubuque,  through  Montrose,  West  Point,  Mount 
Pleasant,  Washington,  Iowa  City,  and  Marion,  and  other  towns." 

"  FORT  MADISON,  the  seat  of  justice  for  Lee  county,  handsomely 
situated  on  the  Mississippi,  about  12  miles  above  the  head  of  the 
Rapids  [and  20  above  Keokuk] ,  is  quite  an  important  town,  having 
1,200  to  1,500  inhabitants.  It  contains  the  State  Penitentiary." 


80  WESTERN    PORTRAITURE. 

There  is  a  fine  agricultural  district,  with  many  thriving 
villages  and  cultivated  farms,  along  Des  Moines  river,  with 
considerable  good  water-power.  There  is  some  government 
land  for  sale  in  this  region.  Population  of  Lee  county, 
18,860 ;  dwellings,  3,252 ;  farms,  1,350  ;  manufactories,  78. 

The  fare  from  St.  Louis  to  Keokuk  is  $2 ;  thence  to 
Davenport  and  Eock  Island,  $2 ;  and  thence  to  Galena,  $2. 

From  Keokuk  boats  proceed  with  some  difficulty,  in 
low  stages  of  water,  up  the  Rapids,  12  miles,  to  MON 
TROSE  and  NAUVOO — the  former  on  the  Iowa  side,  and  the 
latter,  in  Illinois,  and  distinguished  as  the  theater  of 
Mormon  troubles,  some  years  ago ;  but  it  has  since  been 
purchased  by  a  colony  of  French  Communists,  or  Icarians, 
who  now  occupy  it,  under  Mons.  CARET  ;  and  they  are  said 
to  be  a  peaceful,  intelligent,  and  industrious  people. 

It  is  in  Hancock  county,  of  which  CARTHAGE  is  the 
county-seat,  where  Joe  Smith  was  killed.  This  is  a  good 
county  of  land,  both  for  crops  and  grazing.  Pop.  14,652; 
dwellings,  2,585;  farms,  1,167  ;  manufactures,  43. 

For  picturesque  scenery  and  extent  of  prospect,  from 
the  high  elevation  of  the  town,  which  is  seen  from  a  great 
distance  in  every  direction,  with  its  beautifully  sloping 
surface  down  to  the  river,  which  here  bends  around  in  an 
extended  crescent,  its  several  channels  curving  among 
many  luxuriant  islands — there  are  few,  if  any,  positions 
on  that  long  river,  from  St.  Louis  to  St.  Anthony's,  that 
surpass  this ;  whether  we  consider  the  place  as  viewed 
from  the  country  around,  or  the  country  which  it  over 
looks  ;  and  in  either  case,  the  enthusiastic  admiration  of 
the  observer  is  challenged  to  the  highest  degree. 

There  are  three  places,  in  the  West,  which  the  writer 
has  had  the  pleasure  of  beholding,  that  are  more  attract 
ive  and  picturesque,  to  the  taste  of  many,  than  most 
others ;  and  they  are  Madison  (Wisconsin) ;  Dubuqiie 
(Iowa)  ;  and  Nauvoo  (Illinois)  ;  while  Lake  Pepin  and  St 


BURLINGTON DES    MOINES    COUNTY OQUAWKA.          81 

Anthony's  present  scenery  scarcely  inferior  to  any  loca 
tion  for  beauty  and  variety. 

After  passing  Fort  Madison,  we  reach  BURLINGTON,  46 
miles  above  Keokuk,  and  county-seat  ofDes  Moines  county. 
It  is,  perhaps,  the  largest  city  in  Iowa,  numbering  now 
about  7,000  population ;  with  much  wealth,  intelligence, 
and  many  good  buildings.  It  has  a,  fine  steamboat  landing. 

Mr.  Sargent  says  of  this  county,  in  1848,  as  follows: 

"  Des  Moines  was  the  earliest  settled,  with  the  exception  of  Du- 
buque,  and  is  at  this  time  the  most  populous  county  in  the  state. 
The  seat  of  justice  and  principal  town  is  Burlington,  which  was 
formerly  the  Territorial  seat  of  government.  The  first  legislature 
that  convened  in  Iowa,  met  here  in  the  fall  of  1837." 

Like  most  of  the  towns  on  this  mighty  river,  situated 
both  upon  and  under  the  bluffs,  this  one  too  overlooks 
much  rich  and  delightful  landscape,  with  fine  improve 
ments.  Population  of  the  county,  12,987;  dwellings, 
1,919  ;  farms,  383  ;  manufactories,  23. 

Still  13  miles  farther  up,  on  the  Illinois  side,  is  the  vil 
lage  of  OQUAWKA,  in  Henderson  county.  It  is  a  flourish 
ing  town  of  between  1,000  and  1,500  population.  I  quote 
the  following,  written  in  1837 : 

"  Oquawka,  or  Yellow  Banks,  is  a  town  recently  settled.  It  is 
situated  on  the  Mississippi  river,  about  midway  between  the  Keokuk 
and  Rock  Island  Rapids,  and  is  the  principal  depot  for  freight  be 
tween  these  points  ;  the  town  is  laid  out  in  two  sections  on  an  ex 
tensive  scale ;  the  soil  is  sandy,  and  the  surface  gently  undulating. 
The  site  was  sold  by  the  original  to  the  present  proprietor  for 
$2,000,  who  last  autumn  sold  one  fourth  of  it  for  $24,000." 
There's  luck,  for  you. 

We  next  reach  the  city  of  MUSCATINE,  in  Iowa  (for 
merly  Bloomington),  county-seat  of  Muscatine  county.  It 
is  now  a  city  of  nearly  5,000  population,  doing  an  im 
mense  business,  and  sustained  by  an  exceedingly  fertile 
arid  well-cultivated  country.  No  citv  in  Iowa  is  growing 


82  WESTERN    PORTRAITURE. 

faster  than  this.  There  is  considerable  wealth,  and  many 
fine  buildings  and  mills  here. 

In  reaching  this  place,  we  passed  the  mouth  of  Iowa 
river  in  Louisa  county,  containing  fine  land  and  timber, 
with  WAPELLO  for  the  seat  of  justice ;  a  fine  little  town, 
beautifully  situated  on  the  Iowa  river.  Population  of 
Louisa  county,  4.939  ;  dwellings,  842 ;  farms,  388 ;  manu 
factories,  18. 

Muscatine  county  is  one  of  the  finest  in  the  state.  In 
speaking  of  this  county,  Mr.  Sargent  says : 

"  This  county  is  situated  in  one  of  the  great  bends  of  the  river, 
and  in  point  of  location  has  many  advantages.  Bloomington  [now 
Muscatine],  the  seat  of  justice,  is  situated  on  the  Mississippi;  it 
has  an  excellent  landing  for  steamboats.  Its  peculiar  situation  in 
the  bend  of  the  river  gives  it  the  advantages  of  both  a  river  and 
inland  town.  It  contains  about  1,800  inhabitants;  a  very  exten 
sive  business  is  done  here  in  produce." 

People  in  the  interior,  and  about  the  state  capital, 
IOWA  CITY,  come  to  Muscatine  as  their  natural  and  most 
convenient  'steamboat  landing  ;  and  emigrants,  going  into 
that  region  of  country,  will  always  do  well  to  land  there. 
Population  of  the  county,  5,734 ;  dwellings,  999 ;  farms, 
460  ;  manufactories,  19. 

Still  farther  up,  thirty  miles,  is  the  romantic  and  flour 
ishing  city  of  DAVENPORT,  county-seat  of  Scott  county, 
containing,  at  this  time,  about  3,000  population,  with  fine 
steam  mills,  and  other  general  elements  of  continued 
growth.  Population  of  Scott  county,  5,986 ;  dwellings, 
991;  farms,  384;  manufactories,  19. 

Mr.  Sargent  gives  the  following  of  Scott  county : 

"  This  is  a  rich  and  Avell-watered  county,  the  Wabsipinecon  river 
bounding  it  on  the  north,  and  the  Mississippi  flowing  along  the 
whole  eastern  and  southern  borders,  a  distance  of  about  40  miles. 

"  The  lands  bordering  on  the  Mississippi  are  susceptible  of  cul 
tivation  almost  to  the  waters  edge,  the  bluffs  rising  gradually, 
and  forming  the  most  desirable  locations  for  farming  purposes  that 


DAVENPORT ROCK    ISLAND.  83 

can  be  conceived.  The  beauty  of  the  scenery,  the  quality  of  the 
soil,  and  the  apparent  advantages  of  the  situation,  induced  an 
early  settlement  along  the  banks  of  tha  river,  where  the  farms 
are  now  numerous  and  highly  improved.  In  the  interior,  the  land, 
though  mostly  prairie,  is 'high,  gently  rolling,  and  well  adapted  to 
cultivation ;  and  owing  to  the  facilities  for  procuring  all  necessary 
timber  from  the  Mississippi,  is  rapidly  becoming  dotted  with 
farms. 

"  It  was  in  this  county  that  Black  Hawk  built  his  village,  when 
the  last  of  the  Sacs  and  Foxes  were  driven  from  their  homes  on 
llock  river ;  and  from  here  his  warriors  started  to  commence  the 
war  of  1832.  The  treaty,  at  the  close  of  that  war,  by  which  the 
first  land  in  Iowa  was  acquired  from  the  Indians,  was  concluded 
at  Fort  Armstrong,  by  General  Scott ;  and  in  honor  of  that  cele 
brated  officer,  not  so  much  on  account  of  his  military  achievements 
as  for  his  agency  in  effecting  this  favorable  treaty,  Scott  county 
received  its  name.  It  is  one  of  the  smallest  counties  in  the  State, 
not  containing  over  twelve  townships  of  land." 

"  DAVESTPORT,  the  seat  of  justice,  is  situated  at  the  foot  of  a 
bluff  on  the  bank  of  the  Mississippi.  The  scenery  in  its  vicinity 
is  exceedingly  picturesque,  and  long  before  the  country  was  set 
tled,  had  been  noticed  with  admiration  by  passing  travelers.  Its 
appearance  at  that  time  is  thus  described  in  a  work  published 
several  years  ago  : 

"  « At  the  foot  of  the  Upper  Rapids  is  one  of  the  most  pictu 
resque  scenes  that  we  recollect  to  have  beheld.  On  the  western 
side,  a  series  of  slopes  are  seen  rising  one  above  another  for  a  con 
siderable  distance,  until  the  background  is  terminated  by  a  chain 
of  beautifully  rounded  hills,  over  the  whole  of  which  trees  are 
thinly  scattered.  On  the  other  side  of  the  river  is  a  broad  flat 
plain  of  rich  alluvion,  several  miles  in  length,  and  more  than  a 
mile  in  breadth,  and  terminated  by  a  range  of  wooded  hills.  On 
this  prairie  is  a  small  village  of  the  Sac  and  Fox  Indians,  com 
posed  of  rude  lodges,  scattered  carelessly  about. 

"  In  front  of  the  landscape,  and  presenting  its  most  prominent 
feature,  is  Rock  Island,  the  western  shore  of  which  is  washed  by 
the  main  current  of  the  Mississippi,  while  the  eastern  side  is  sep 
arated  from  the  main-land  by  a  narrow  channel,  which  is  ford- 
able  at  low  water.  The  southern  point  of  the  island  is  elevated 
about  forty  feet  above  the  ordinary  level  of  the  river,  and  is  sup 
ported  by  a  perpendicular  parapet  of  rock.  Here  stands  Fort 
Armstrong,  a  strong  and  very  neat  work,  garrisoned  by  two  com- 


84  WESTERN    PORTRAITURE. 

panies  of  United  States  troops ;  and  here  will  be  one  of  the  most 
desirable  sites  for  a  town  on  the  Upper  Mississippi.  Rock  river, 
which  enters  the  Mississippi  a  few  miles  below  the  island,  in  Illi 
nois,  is  a  rapid  stream,  which  may  be  easily  rendered  navigable, 
and  which  affords  abundant  water-power  for  the  propulsion  of  any 
kind  of  machinery.  The  whole  of  this  region  is  fruitful,  health 
ful,  and  agreeable  to  the  eye." 

"It  is  interesting  to  mark  the  changes  that  have  taken  place 
since  the  above  description  was  written.  On  the  '  western  side,' 
with  the  '  beautifully  rounded  hills  in  the  background,'  now 
stands  Davenport.  On  the  other  side,  which  was  then  occupied  by 
the  Sac  and  Fox  village,  is  now  the  nourishing  town  of  Rock 
Island,  in  Illinois.  Fort  Armstrong  is  abandoned  and  in  ruins. 
All  along  the  banks  of  the  river  are  seen  the  marks  of  civilization 
and  improvement.  But,  though  the  scenery  has  lost  some  of  its 
wildness,  it  retains  its  original  characteristics,  and  has  gained 
many  pleasing  features.  The  towns  of  Rock  Island  and  Daven 
port,  the  old  Fort  with  its  deserted  block-houses,  the  Mississippi, 
winding  gracefully  ab.ove  and  beloAV,  Rock  river  branching  off 
through  the  woods,  the  forest-covered  islands,  the  high,  wooded 
bluffs,  and  the  rich,  green  prairies  of  Illinois,  form  a  picture, 
which,  for  beauty,  variety,  and  extent,  can  hardly  be  surpassed. 

"The  healthfulness  and  beauty  of  the  situation,  together  with 
the  facilities  for  hunting  and  fishing  in  its  neighborhood,  have 
made  this  place  the  fashionable  resort,  during  the  summer  months, 
of  large  numbers  of  people,  from  St.  Louis  and  other  Southern 
cities.  It  has  hitherto  been  more  noted  on  this  account  than  as  a 
place  of  trade ;  but  the  business  of  the  town  is  now  rapidly  on  the 
increase." 

"  Davenport  is  the  eastern  terminus  of  the  contemplated  rail 
road  from  the  Mississippi  to  the  Missouri  river.  It  is  350  miles 
above  St.  Louis,  and  500  below  the  Falls  of  St.  Anthony.  It  con 
tains  about  1,000  inhabitants." 

"  LE  CLAIRK  is  the  name  of  a  new  town  which  has  lately 
sprung  into  existence  at  the  head  of  the  Rapids,  about  fifteen  miles 
above  Davenport.  It  is  situated  in  a  thickly  settled  part  of  the 
county,  and  bids  fair  to  become  a  pljR.ce  of  considerable  import 
ance." 

"  Clinton  is  a  rich  and  well-watered  county  of  land.  In  some 
parts  there  is  a  scarcity  of  timber,  which  has  prevented  very  ex 
tensive  settlements  being  made. 

*'  DE  WITT,  the  seat  of  justice,  is  a  thriving  little  village,  beau- 


ROCK    ISLAND WATER-POWERS.  85 

tifully  situated  on  a  high,  rolling  prairie,  about  three  miles  from 
the  Wabsipinecon  river." 

Population  of  Clinton  county,  2,822 ;  dwellings,  499 ; 
farms,  306 ;  manufactories,  10. 

Opposite  to  Davenport,  on  the  Illinois  side,  is  the  en 
terprising  and  rapidly  growing  town  of  ROCK  ISLAND, 
county-seat  of  Rock  Island  county.  It  contains  a  popula 
tion  of  between  3,'000  and  4,000 ;  who,  for  intelligence, 
liberal  enterprise,  and  hospitality,  are  not  surpassed  by 
any  people  in  the  West.  From  its  immense,  very  con 
venient  water-powers,  derived  from  both  the  Mississippi 
and  Rock  rivers,  and  for  its  wider  surface  of  level  ground 
between  river  and  bluff,  Rock  Island  possesses  importance 
and  business  facilities  superior  to  Davenport ;  though  the 
latter  presents  more  beautiful  and  striking  scenery  to 
arrest  the  attention  of  strangers,  than  the  former  place. 

The  rocky  foot  of  the  Island  is  nearly  on  a  line  between 
these  towns ;  and  causes  a  wider  body  of  water  than  the 
usual  width  of  the  river,  giving  here  the  appearance  of  a 
small  lake  in  the  form  of  a  slightly  curved  crescent. 

The  main  and  navigable  channel  of  the  river  is  on  the 
west  side,  while  that  on  the  east  side  is  narrower,  and  has 
been  dammed  so  as  to  afford  a  splendid  water-power 
above,  and  a  fine  little  harbor  of  still  water  below,  making 
a  most  commodious  place  for  building  and  launching  ves 
sels,  the  bank  having  a  very  smooth  and  gentle  slope. 
The  island,  which  thus  divides  the  river,  is  one  of  the 
most  charming  and  comfortable  rural  retreats,  in  the  warm 
summer,  that  can  well  be  desired ;  the  beautiful  groves 
commingling  and  interspreading  their  green  branches  to 
gether,  as  if  with  a  benevolent  design  to  swing  a  spacious 
umbrella  or  parasol,  sufficient  for  all  who  might  choose  to 
avail  themselves  of  its  convenience,  in  sun  or  in  shower. 
Many  a  delightful  promenade  in  the  vernal  time  has  the 
writer  of  this  enjoyed  in  these  sylvan  shades,  with  bird- 
8 


86  WESTERN    PORTRAITURE. 

carols  above,  leaving  palaces  and  cultivated  fields,  to  be 
and  think  amid  these  quiet  midsummer  bowers,  where  all 
is  so  still  and  serene,  that  Sleep  and  Rest  seem  almost  to 
have  ordained  these  groves  as  their  silent  sanctuary. 

The  writer  of  "Illinois  in  1837,"  thus  speaks  of  this 
place : 

"  Stephenson  [now  Rock  Island]  is  situated  on  the  Mississippi, 
opposite  the  lower  end  of  the  Island,  and  two  miles  above  the 
mouth  of  Rock  river,  and  three  hundred  and  thirty  above  St.  Louis. 
It  has  twenty  or  thirty  families,  and  several  stores.  The  fine  situ 
ation  of  this  place,  its  natural  commercial  advantages,  and  the 
rapidly  increasing  population  of  the  fertile  country  around  it,  on 
both  sides  of  the  Mississippi,  will,  no  doubt,  render  it  in  a  short 
time  one  of  the  most  considerable  towns  in  this  part  of  Illinois. 

"The  Island  is  three  miles  long  and  half  a  mile  wide,  with 
limestone  rock  for  its  base.  Fort  Armstrong  is  on  its  south  end. 
On  two  sides,  the  rock  is  twenty  feet  perpendicular  in  hight  above 
the  water.  A  portion  of  the  Island  is  cultivated." 

Since  the  above  was  written,  Stephenson  (now  Rock 
Island)  has  grown  to  be  a  respectable  city  from  its  "  twenty 
or  thirty  families."  Since  then,  too,  a  smart  milling  and 
manufacturing  town,  called  MOLINE,  has  sprung  up,  to  near 
a  thousand  population,  at  the  head  of  the  Island,  on  the 
Illinois  channel,  taking  advantage  of  the  large  water 
power ;  and  on  Rock  river,  about  the  same  distance  that 
way,  from  Rock  Island,  another  town  of  similar  desci'ip 
tion,  named  CAMDEN,  has  been  built  up,  and  uses  the 
water-power  of  that  river ;  so  that  probably  there  is  not 
another  place  in  the  State,  or  the  Wes£,  with  so  much 
superior  water-power,  and  so  many  facilities  for  using  it, 
as  at  this  point,  which  must  soon  render  Rock  Island  the 
second  manufacturing  city  in  the  State. 

Beside,  this  high  rocky  Island,  in  the  river,  with  steep, 
high  bluffs  on  both  sides,  point  to  this  spot  as  the  place 
where,  ere  long,  the  Mississippi  will  be  bridged — and,  in 
fact,  the  only  place  where  such  an  undertaking  is  practica- 


MISSISSIPPI RAILROAD CARROLL    COUNTY.  87 

ble ;  and  it  is  already  beginning  to  be  talked  of  with  con 
siderable  earnestness. 

Here,  too,  is  the  western  or  Mississippi  terminus  of  the 
"Rock  Island,  La  Salle,  and  Chicago  Railroad,"  upon 
which  the  Engineers  are  already  at  work.  All  these 
things  combine  to  point  out  Rock  Island  as  likely  to  be 
come,  at  no  distant  day,  the  second  city  in  Illinois. 

While,  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river,  the  city  of 
Davenport  will  be  likely  to  maintain  a  fair  comparative 
growth  with  her  neighbor.  Population  of  the  county  is 
7,000. 

One  branch  of  the  O'Rielly  Telegraph  line  ends  here ; 
running  from  St.  Louis,  through  Jacksonville,  Rushville, 
Quincy,  and  other  towns  in  Illinois,  crossing  over  to 
Keokuk,  in  Iowa,  and  running  up  the  river,  through  Bur 
lington,  Muscatine,  Davenport,  and  crossing  the  river  back 
again,  terminates  in  Rock  Island.  Most  of  the  towns 
throughout  the  West  have  good  weekly  newspapers; 
while  many  have  daily  ones,  as  Galena,  Springfield,  Alton, 
Dubuque,  and  others. 

From  Rock  Island,  we  pass  Moline,  and  run  over  the 
rapids  up  the  river  eighteen  miles,  to  Port  Byron,  passing 
several  smaller  towns,  or  river-landings.  This  is  the  head 
of  the  main  rapids,  but  there  is  a  slight  rapid  or  broken 
current  still  up  to  NEW  ALBANY,  some  twenty-seven  miles, 
in  Whitesides  co.  Pop.  5,361;  dwell.  923;  f.  404;  man.  24. 

In  time  of  low  water,  these  rapids  retard  the  speed  of 
boats,  and  the  upsticking  rocks  render  navigation  some 
what  dangerous,  except  the  boats  are  carefully  guided  by 
experienced  pilots.  By  throwing  out  oblique  wing  dams, 
at  various  places,  many  wrater-powers  are  obtained.  Pop. 
Carroll  co.  4,586;  dwell.  814;  forms,  482;  man.  17. 

And  now,  we  will  pass  ELIZABETH  on  the  Iowa  side, 
SAVANNAH,  in  Carroll  county,  on  the  Illinois  side,  and 
some  other  small  towns. 


88  WESTERN    PORTRAITURE. 

When  about  ninety  miles  above  Rock  Island  we  reach 
the  mouth  of  Fevre  river.  And  about  six  miles  up  that 
river,  we  come  to  the  rich,  thriving,  and  enterprising  city 
of  GALENA,  one  of  the  first,  in  size  and  business,  in  Illi 
nois.  It  is  the  county-seat  of  Jo  Daviess  county,  and 
contains  about  8.000  population. 

This  river  has  its  name  from  an  early  French  trader, 
Le  Fevre,  and  not  from  fever  sickness,  as  some  have  sup 
posed. 

Jo  Daviess  is  perhaps  as  rich  in  minerals  as  any  other 
county  in  the  entire  Mining  District.  Many  men  in  this 
county  have  made  handsome  fortunes  in  the  lead  business. 
Still,  portions  of  the  county  are  well  adapted  to  farming 
business,  and  present  many  highly  cultivated  farms,  with 
good  buildings.  Population,  18,604;  dwellings,  3,431; 
farms,  1,370;  manufactories,  279. 

Ffteen  miles  from  here,  up  the  Mississippi,  after  passing 
Bellvue,  we  reach  Dubuque,  the  most  beautifully  located 
city  in  Iowa,  equal  in  business  to  any ;  and  is  contested 
only  by  Burlington  for  the  largest  population.  This  is 
the  heart  and  grand  depot  of  the  lead  mining  operations 
for  this  State ;  of  which  large  and  valuable  quantities  are 
annually  raised,  smelted,  and  sent  off  down  the  river  from 
this  place.  It  is  the  county-seat  of  Dubuque  county.  Of 
this  county  and  city,  Mr.  Sargent  says : 

"  This  county,  which  embraces  the  principal  part  of  the  mineral 
region  west  of  the  river,  was  the  earliest  settled  in  the  state ;  a 
party  of  French  Canadians  having  established  at  the  site  of  the 
present  town  of  Dubuque,  about  the  year  1786,  for  the  purpose  of 
trading  with  the  Indians.  The  first  discovery  of  lead  ore  in  the 
West  is  said  to  have  been  made  in  that  vicinity  by  the  wife  of  an 
Indian  chief." 

This  is  a  well-timbered  county,  but  much  of  the  land  is 
too  broken  for  agricultural  purposes.  There  are  valuable 
water-powers  on  Maquoketa  river,  some  of  which  are  ex- 


POTOSI CASSVILLE LAND    MONOPOLY.  89 

tensively  improved.      Population    of   Dubuque   county, 
10,841;  dwellings,  1,952;  farms,  755  ;  manufactories,  46. 

"Dubuque,  the  seat  of  justice,  beside  being  the  great  mineral 
depot,  is  a  place  of  much  trade,  and  supplies  a  very  extensive  coun 
try  with  goods.  It  contains  about  3,000  inhabitants,  several  whole 
sale  stores,  and  one  of  the  largest  hotels  in  the  West.  The  U.  S. 
Land  Office  for  the  Northern  District  of  Iowa,  and  the  office  of  the 
Surveyor  General  of  Iowa  and  Wisconsin,  are  at  this  place." 

Now  the  city  of  Dubuque  contains  near  7,000  population. 

From  here  we  pass  up  to  POTOSI,  a  busy  and  growing 
mining  town,  on  the  Wisconsin  side,  situated  in  "  Snake 
Hollow,"  near  the  mouth  of  Grant  river,  in  Grant  county. 
It  has  a  good  steamboat  landing,  contains  a  population  of 
above  2,000 — an  enterprising  people — and  is  a  place  of 
considerable  business. 

Some  ten  miles  above,  in  the  same  county,  is  the  dull 
and  dilapidated  village  of  CASSVILLE.  It  occupies  one  of 
the  most  sightly  and  attractive  positions  to  be  found  on 
the  Mississippi,  and  has  the  natural  resources  to  become 
a  wealthy  and  flourishing  town.  But  it  is  cursed  with  the 
Land-monopoly  blight — of  eager,  miserly  speculators,  most 
ly  non-residents — like  some  other  towns  in  Wisconsin. 

There  are  those  who  prey  like  vampires  upon  the  pros 
perity  of  portions  of  that  young,  handsome,  and  noble 
state ;  some  from  whom  we  had  a  right  to  look  for  better 
conduct — who  have  not  only  pursued  a  policy  to  prevent, 
on  their  own  part,  the  growth  of  some  fine  towns,  but  have 
hindered  others;  and,  to  a  degree,  crippled  the  influence 
and  efforts  of  those  who,  with  honorable  enterprise,  were 
anxious  and  striving  to  promote  the  advancement  of  their 
towns.  There  are  some  of  this  kind  of  moth  and  Shylock 
beings  scattered  through  the  West,  much  to  its  detriment. 
We  need  the  true  FREE  SOIL  and  LAND  LIMITATION  doc 
trines  and  measures  to  be  realized  and  applied  in  such 
portions  of  the  West,  before  it  can  come  up  to  its  full  and 


90  WESTERN   PORTRAITURE. 

destined  dignity  and  power  in  the  nation ;  when  it  shall 
be  a  country  of  real  FREEMEN,  who  own  their  own  homes, 
manage  their  own  shops,  direct  and  enjoy  their  own  labors 
— a  great  community  of  FREEHOLDERS. 

In  the  earlier  history  of  this  part  of  the  West,  the  means 
for  traveling  over  it  were  far  less  comfortable  and  expedi 
tious  than  at  a  later  period.  Then,  the  stage  route  from 
Peoria  to  Galena  was  a  long  and  circuitous  one,  but  through 
an  excellent  country  of  land,  rich  in  natural  resources  for 
agricultural  purposes,  being  through  the  counties  of  Knox, 
Putnam,  Whitesides,  Henry,  Carroll,  and  into  Jo  Daviess. 

The  tourist,  whom  I  have  several  times  quoted  from, 
traveled  over  this  route  in  1833,  and  gives  an  account  of 
it.  But  before  starting,  he  gives  a  description  of  Peoria, 
now  a  rapidly  growing  city  of  some  7,000  population ; 
and  for  good  buildings,  streets,  shady  walks,  fences,  and 
other  fine  improvements,  it  is  scarcely  surpassed  by  any 
city  in  the  West ;  while  the  intelligence,  benevolence,  and 
accomplishments  of  the  people  would  be  creditable  even 
to  Eastern  cities  of  the  same  size.  Here  is  an  account  of 
the  same  place  eighteen  years  ago : 

"  Peoria  is  situated  at  the  lower  end  of  an  expansion  of  the  Illi 
nois  river,  forming  a  lake  about  twenty  miles  long  by  one  and  a 
half  in  breadth.  It  ranks  among  the  earliest  French  settlements 
in  the  country ;  but,  while  in  other  directions  large  towns  of  recent 
foundation  spring  up,  Peoria  remains  a  wretched  and  ruinous  col 
lection  of  habitations  ;  a  spell  seems  to  rest  on  these  early  settle 
ments  of  the  French." 

Our  tourist  had  just  undergone  some  vexatious  trials  by 
stage  in  a  journey  from  St.  Louis,  and  probably  was  in  no 
very  good  humor  to  appreciate  the  fair  side  of  many  ob 
jects  at  all.  There  is  no  finer  section  of  country  than  that 
which  surrounds  Peoria.  At  this  place  he  took  the  stage 
for  Galena ;  and  his  description  of  that  route,  as  of  the 
Mineral  region,  is  faithful  and  entertaining.  We  overtake 


INDIAN    WAR MINERAL   DISTRICT.  91 

him  on  the  fourth  day  of  his  journey,  and  find  him  dis 
coursing  in  this  wise : 

"  On  the  fourth  day  of  our  journey  north,  when  we  were  between 
Rock  and  Apple  rivers,  we  traveled  over  the  scene  of  early  Indian 
devastations,  on  the  outbreak  of  the  late  Indian  war.  The  ordi 
nary  route  lay  lower  down  the  country,  near  the  Mississippi ;  but, 
on  account  of  the  swollen  state'of  the  streams,  we  were  obliged  to 
follow  a  trail,  keeping  the  ridge  of  the  elevated  country,  and  trav 
ersing  a  region  which  we  thought  unparalleled  by  any  thing  we 
had  previously  seen,  for  the  magnificence  of  its  park  scenery — 
prairies  sprinkled  with  forests." 

Here  were  some  five  days  consumed  in  performing  a 
journey  (from  Peoria  to  Galena),  which  is  now  accom 
plished  in  less  than  two  days.  And  that  Indian  ravaged 
country,  and  park  scenery  so  beautiful  in  its  natural  garb, 
are  now  subdued  by  the  plow,  presenting  many  culti 
vated  farms  and  comfortable  tenements.  Our  traveler 
continues : 

"  On  approaching  Fevre  river  and  the  district  of  the  Lead  mines, 
the  face  of  the  country  began  to  change  its  character ;  the  soil 
became  poorer  and  more  stony,  broken  by  limestone  knolls;  and 
from  the  summit  of  an  elevated  ridge,  called  Pilot  Knob,  the  eye 
ranges  over  a  vast  plain,  stretching  from  the  river  to  northward 
and  eastward,  with  the  Platte  Mounds,  two  most  singular  natural 
eminences,  heaving  up  from  the  level  in  the  far  distance. 

"  Galena,  which  lies  below,  is  situated  on  Fevre  river,  about 
seven  miles  from  its  junction  with  the  Mississippi.  It  is  the  main 
depot  for  the  lead  ore,  collected  in  vast  quantities  from  the  neigh 
boring  country,  and  transported  thence  by  steamboats  to  St.  Louis. 
The  population  of  this  Mining  district  is  computed  to  be  upward  of 
10,000." 

Now,  Galena  itself  contains  nearly  that  number,  and 
Dubuque  alone  over  half  of  it ;  while  the  whole  popula 
tion  of  that  district  must  be  eight  or  nine  times  the  number 
it  then  contained.  Pilot  Knob  is  a  high  rocky  cone,  the 
summit  of  which  is  of  difficult  access,  but  once  attained, 
the  prospects,  over  both  sides  of  the  Mississippi,  up  and 


92  WESTERN     PORTRAITURE. 

down,  which  it  affords,  amply  compensates  for  the  toil ;  it 
stands  in  the  angle  formed  by  the  confluence  of  the  two 
rivers ;  the  eye  here  commands  a  view  over  many  little 
towns  and  "diggins,"  far  away  in  the  three  states  of  Iowa, 
Illinois,  and  Wisconsin;  and  from  its  peculiar  location, 
many  times  serves  as  a  convenient  guide  to  the  pilots  nav 
igating  those  rivers,  whence  it  derives  its  name. 

In  those  days  it  was  a  rare  thing  to  find  a  steamboat 
going  to  Prairie  du  Chien ;  and  the  route  was  generally 
performed  by  stage.  Following  is  Mr.  Latrobe's  felicit 
ous  experience  in  performing  the  jaunt.  Upon  preparing 
to  leave  Galena,  he  says : 

"  Our  next  halting  place  was  to  be  at  Prairie  du  Chien,  75  miles 
distant  to  the  north  ;  and  having  stored  away  our  chattels,  we 
were  happily  extricated  from  the  deep  mud  of  Galena  by  two 
strong  horses,  and  began  to  jolt  forward  over  the  plain  toward  the 
Platte  Mounds,  taking  our  morning  meal  at  a  snug  farm — doubt 
less  the  germ  of  an  incipient  city — called  by  the  melodious  name 
of '  Hardscrabble.' " 

This  place  is  a  "  lead  diggins,"  some  twelve  miles  from 
Galena ;  and  the  "  farm"  at  which  they  breakfasted,  was 
Col.  CURTISS'S,  whose  hospitable  widow  still  occupies  it, 
while  several  of  her  sons  are  settled  in  different  states,  as 
preachers  of  the  Gospel.  It  is  now  a  pleasant,  thriving 
village,  called  Hazel  Green,  and  is  noted  for  the  large 
quantity  of  mineral  which  is  annually  raised  from  its 
mines.  He  continues : 

"  Our  route  led  us  between  the  Platte  Mounds,  which,  on  nearer 
approach,  we  found  to  consist  of  two  regular  moulded  hills,  con 
nected  by  a  band  on  which,  midway,  a  small  conical  mound 
rises.  They  all  are  evidently  formed  of  limestone  rock,  masses 
of  which  start  up  grotesquely  from  the  surface.  Several  small 
rivers  rise  in  their  vicinity.  Our  route  was  a  solitary  one,  the 
houses  being  few  and  far  distant ;  nor  were  such  common-place 
adventures  as  being  benighted,  wet  to  the  skin,  and  sleeping  in 
comfortless  quarters,  at  all  wanting  in  our  experience." 

Those  rocky  elevations,  which  crop  out  from  amid  the 


PLATTE    MOUNDS RIVERS BELMONTE.  93 

broad  prairies,  of  which  there  are  in  fact  three,  two  being 
called  Platte  Mounds,  over  an  hundred  feet  high,  and  the 
other  Belmonte  Mound  ;  the  two  former  stand  about  one 
mile  apart,  like  two  huge  outposts  or  bastions ;  while  on 
a  gently  sloping  ridge,  which  connects  them,  and  over 
which  the  stageroad  passes,  stands  the  other,  a  beautiful 
center  cone,  almost  as  uniform  in  figure  as  the  half  of  an 
orange,  of  between  60  and  70  feet  high,  nearly  to  the 
summit  of  which  you  may  drive  a  horse  and  buggy,  on 
either  side,  from  where  we  have  a  most  magnificent  and 
charming  view,  far  as  the  eye  is  able  to  reach  in  every 
direction,  over  bright,  waving,  flowery  prairies,  cheerful 
villages,  and  among  the  hills  and  valleys  of  the  Missis 
sippi,  Fevre,  Platte,  Grant,  and  Peckatonica  rivers,  some 
of  which  take  their  rise  about  these  mounds. 

"  From  the  promontory  gazed 
The  stranger,  raptured  and  amazed." 

In  earlier  times,  before  Wisconsin  became  a  state,  a 
popular  race-course,  of  mile  heats,  was  established  around 
the  base  of  this  cone ;  and  perhaps  a  handsomer  track, 
with  fairer  opportunities  for  observation,  was  never  com 
bined  on  any  other  ground  for  the  turf-sports.  The  Terri 
torial  Capital  was  established  here  at  the  village  of  Bel 
monte  ;  and  during  the  sessions  of  the  legislature,  I  am 
told  the  races  were  well  patronized ;  as  the  business  and 
interests  of  the  Territory  were  few,  the  business  of  legis 
lation  was  not  as  arduous  as  in  the  "  Empire  State" — 
where  so  much  of  party-business  and  office-seeking  enters 
into  the  work  of  law-makers — those  pioneer  legislators 
found  more  time  that  could  be  devoted  to  amusement ; 
beside,  sports  of  this  character  were  more  congenial  to  the 
early  settlers  of  that  region,  who  were  mostly  emigrants 
from  Kentucky  and  Virginia. 

Since  the  capital  was  removed  to  Madison,  Belmonte 


94  WESTERN    PORTRAITURE. 

has  not  advanced  very  much,  though  it  presents  some 
pleasant  dwellings  and  fine  farms. 

I  once,  at  this  point,  on  an  evening  in  the  Autumn  of 
1849,  had  the  opportunity  of  witnessing,  in  almost  a  rap 
ture  of  amaze  and  delight,  the  waving  prairies  on  fire,  for 
many  miles  around.  I  was  driving  in  a  buggy  from 
Platteville  to  Mineral  Point,  and  reached  Belmonte  mound 
just  at  the  coming  in  of  twilight.  The  evening  was  one 
of  those  bland,  mellowr  seasons,  usual  in  the  time  of  Indian 
Summer ;  and  on  reaching  the  center  mound — which  lay 
rolled  up  and  shrouded  in  smoke,  handsome  as  an  apple- 
dumpling  all  steaming  from  the  kettle — and  feeling 
strongly  tempted  to  know  and  see  farther,  I  drove  to  near 
its  summit  to  take  a  leisure  survey  of  the  vast  flame- 
lighted  and  enchanting  panorama  flung  out  so  profusely 
by  artist-nature  ;  the  moon  and  stars  peered  but  dimly 
through  the  hazy  air,  adding  mystic  force  to  the  scenes,  in 
the  passing  twilight. 

Soon  the  fires  began  to  kindle  wider,  and  rise  higher 
from  the  long  grass ;  the  gentle  bjeeze  increased  to  stronger 
currents,  and  soon  fanned  the  small  flickering  blaze  into 
fierce  torrent-flames,  which  curled  up  and  leaped  along  in 
resistless  splendor ;  and  like  quickly  raising  the  dark  cur 
tain  from  the  luminous  stage,  the  scenes  before  me  were 
suddenly  changed,  as  if  by  the  magician's  wand,  into  one 
boundless  amphitheater,  blazing  from  earth  to  heaven,  and 
sweeping  the  horizon  round — columns  of  lurid  flames, 
sportively  mounting  up  to  the  zenith,  and  dark  clouds  of 
crimson  smoke  curling  away  and  aloft,  till  they  nearly 
obscured  stars  and  moon ;  while  the  rushing,  crashing 
sounds,  like  roaring  cataracts  mingled  with  distant  thun 
ders,  were  almost  deafening;  danger,  death,  glared  all 
around — it  screamed  for  victims — yet,  notwithstanding 
the  imminent  peril  of  prairie  fires,  one  is  loth — irresolute, 
almost  unable — to  withdraw,  or  seek  refuge. 


PRAIRIE    FIRES DEATH    BY    THEM.  95 

I  now  thought  of  the  spot  on  the  banks  of  the  bright 
Kankakee,  where,  some  years  ago,  two  young  persons — 
betrothed  lovers — perished  in  the  prairie-flames ;  their 
crisped  forms,  near  their  horse,  being  found  next  day,  by 
a  hunter.  It  is  a  rich,  beautiful  prairie — the  river  mur 
mured  along  to  leeward  of  them,  but  the  flames  out 
stripped  their  fleet  charger — upon  which  both  were  riding 
— before  he  could  reach  the  stream — why  did  they  not 
think — resolve — to  set  a  "  back  fire,"  and  take  refuge  on 
the  burned  space ! 

But  I  am  back  to  the  mound ;  will  the  remorseless 
flames  leap  along  the  high  grass  that  has  grown  luxuriantly 
upon  the  sides,  to  the  very  pinnacle  of  this  cone  ?  Surely, 
the  wind  is  this  way,  and  my  horse  is  already  restive ; 
aye,  but  I've  a  match  in  my  pocket,  and  it  is  easily 
lighted.  Persons  traveling  in  prairie  regions  should  bear 
this  in  mind.  But  see,  that  ocean  of  flame ;  I  must  look, 
still  again ;  even  my  little  match  has  sent  a  lively  current 
dancing  down  the  leeward  slope ;  and  I  am  admonished  to 
follow  it;  but,  in  presence  of  such  scenes,  at  such  an 
hour,  the  sensitive  mind  feels  its  frailty,  and  instinctively 
awards  the  homage  due  to  the  majesty  of  his  Creator, 
from  the  creature. 

Next  morning  I  again  visited  this  mound,  rode  over  the 
charred  grass-stubble  to  its  top ;  the  scene  of  so  much 
terrific  brilliance  but  a  few  hours  before !  now  all  was 
changed ;  the  green-brown  carpet  was  displaced  by  the 
black-spread — the  ravaging  flames  had  consumed  every 
thing — black  destruction  sickened  the  heart  in  sadness — 
the  keenest,  darkest  emblem  of  desolation  that  can  be 
imagined — even  the  livid,  confused  glimmer,  still  almost 
trembled  around  the  eyes  from  last  night's  flames — such 
as  gleaming  lights  leave  upon  the  optic  nerve ;  now,  it 
was  painful  to  contemplate,  for  a  moment,  the  same  ex 
panse,  which,  a  few  hours  ago,  it  required  an  effort  to 


96 


WESTERN     PORTRAITURE. 


withdraw  from  its  enchanting  but  fearful  sublimity  ;  like 
the  giddy  fascination  of  the  serpent  which  holds  its  victim 
in  thrall  till  destruction  overwhelms  beyond  escape,  is  the 
charm  of  such  spectacles  ;  it  was  as  if  the  destroying  an 
gel  flew  abroad,  crying  in  terror-tones,  breathing  tempests 
of  fire  and  smoke  from  his  nostrils,  that  should  awe  and 
paralyze ;  I  may  not  describe — my  pen  is  tame  and  dark — 
but  would  you  realize  such  emotions — experience  its 
force — 

"  Oh,  fly  to  the  prairies,  and  in  wonder  gaze, 
As  o'er  the  grass  sweeps  the  magnificent  blaze  ; 
The  earth  cannot  boast  so  magnificent  a  sight — 
A  continent  blazing  with  oceans  of  light." 

And  now  we  reach  PRAIRIE  DU  CHIEN,  county-seat  of 
Crawford  county,  in  Wisconsin.  It  has  grown  to  be  a 
town  of  several  hundred  population,  doing  considerable 
permanent  business — a  number  of  stores,  taverns,  and  some 
mechanic  shops ;  but,  like  several  other  towns,  too  much 
of  it  is  owned  by  a  single  individual,  to  allow  it  to  grow 
very  rapidly.  So  much  for  the  present  aspect  of  the  place ; 
and  I  will  now  extract  a  description  of  it,  given  by  a  writer 
who  visited  the  place  in  1838,  on  a  trip  to  St.  Pauls  : 

"Toward  the  close  of  the  third  day,  after  quitting  Galena,  we 
reached  the  Wisconsin,  a  large  river,  flowing  through  a  deep  wooded 
glen  from  the  eastward.  Summer  and  winter  were  here  contend 
ing  for  the  mastery  in  the  foliage  of  the  desiduous  forest  trees  on 
its  steep  shores.  Its  channel  forms  the  direct  line  of  communica 
tion,  by  boats,  with  the  waters  of  the  Nenah,  a  river  of  Green  Bay, 
in  Lake  Michigan — a  short  portage  intervening. 

' '  A  ferry-boat  conveyed  us  across  the  river,  here  flowing  in  a 
rocky,  deep,  and  shady  valley.  Six  miles  yet  remained  to  Fort 
Crawford,  at  Prairie  du  Chien ;  and  you  may  imagine  our  pleasure 
in  the  hope  of  soon  gaining  quarters,  where  we  might  rest,  after  a 
seven  days'  journey,  during  which  we  had  hardly  taken  off  our 
clothes. 

"  At  our  arrival  in  Prairie  du  Chien,  from  the  signs  of  the  sea 
son,  one  might  have  been  inclined  to  augur  badly  for  the  prosecu- 


PLATTEVILLE LANCASTER PRAIRIE  DU  CHIEN.          97 

tion  of  our  scheme  of  a  farther  ascent  up  the  Mississippi,  of  three 
hundred  miles,  to  the  [St.  Anthony's]  Falls.' 

Now,  almost  daily,  the  steamboats  run  from  Galena  to 
Prairie  du  Chien,  in  a  few  hours — some  of  them  destined 
on  a  run  up  the  Wisconsin  river,  to  the  Lumber  Country  ; 
and  others,  regular  semi- weekly  lines,  for  St.  Pauls  and 
other  parts  of  Minnesota ;  of  which  boats  Captain  SMITH, 
and  Captains  HARRIS,  are  popular  and  well-deserving  own 
ers  and  commanders.  Boats  run  from  Galena  to  St.  Pauls 
in  from  three  to  four  days. 

Beside,  the  stage  route  now  to  Prairie  du  Chien  is  far 
more  comfortable  and  expeditious  than  it  then  was ;  passing 
by  the  Platte  Mounds  and  through  the  pleasant  villages  of 
Hazel  Green,  Platteville,  and  Lancaster ;  the  latter,  county- 
seat  of  Grant  county,  Wisconsin ;  and  over  this  route  we 
now  meet  many  well-cultiyated  farms,  comfortable  build 
ings,  several  other  small  towns,  and  a  hospitable  people. 
He  continues : 

"  The  Prairie  lies  between  the  Mississippi — which  here  flows  ia 
a  broad  bed  of  many  channels  through  a  wilderness  of  islands — 
and  a  long  precipitous  line  of  bluffs  bordering  the  valley  on  the 
east ;  it  forms  a  beautiful  grassy  meadow  of  six  miles  in  length  and 
one  or  two  broad ;  it  is  bounded  on  the  south  by  the  Wisconsin. 
Its  name  is,  I  believe,  derived  from  that  of  an  Indian  chief. 

"  On  the  west,  the  view  is  limited  by  the  long  line  of  hights,  rising 
directly  from  the  right  bank  of  the  Mississippi  river,  and  only 
broken  by  the  glens  which  give  outlet  to  the  tributary  streams. 
From  any  of  these  hights  most  singular  and  extensive  views  are 
gained,  for  ten  or  twelve  miles,  of  the  broad  river,  crowded  by 
grassy  and  wooded  islands — many  of  them  containing  large  ponds, 
frequented  by  innumerable  water-fowl — and  of  the  prairie  through 
out  its  whole  extent,  with  the  village,  the  fort,  the  bluffs,  and  the 
fertile  farms  along  the  base. 

"  Prairie  du  Chien  is  computed  to  be  600  miles  from  St.  Louis, 
by  water,  300  from  the  Falls,  and  about  180  from  Fort  Howard,  at 
Green  Bay,  by  way  of  Fox  and  Wisconsin  rivers.  But  few  In 
dians,  and  those  of  the  Menominee  tribe,  were  in  the  vicinity.  In  the 
9 


98  WESTERN    PORTRAITURE. 

course  of  the  spring,  during  the  season  of  floods,  a  steamboat  as 
cends  the  stream  as  far  up  as  the  St.  Peter's  river,  to  carry  govern 
ment  stores  to  the  two  forts ;  and  the  rest  of  the  year  the  means 
of  communication  are  restricted  to  boats,  sledges,  and  canoes. 

"  By  employing  one  of  these  latter  class,  we  now  hope  to  secure 
the  means  of  proceeding ;  and  with  considerable  delay  and  difficulty 
we  contrived  to  get  a  number  of  Canadian  boatmen,  and  a  large, 
roomy  birch-bark  canoe  into  our  service.  Meanwhile,  our  time 
passed  pleasantly  enough  in  the  society  of  the  Colonel  commanding 
the  post,  with  half  a  dozen  other  officers." 

Following  is  an  account  of  his  voyage  up  to  St.  Antho 
ny's  Falls,  and  back  again,  he  having  set  oil*  up  the  river 
on  the  22d  of  October,  1833  : 

*'  Our  purpose  this  evening  was  merely  to  get  fairly  afloat ;  and 
accordingly,  after  having  paddled  a  few  miles,  we  encamped  upon 
an  island  in  the  river,  a  little  below  the  Painted  Rocks,  with  a  dry 
starlight  night  as  a  good  omen  over  our  heads ;  lulled  by  the  howl 
ing  of  the  Indians,  encamped  in  the  vicinity,  the  barking  of  dogs, 
and  other  sounds  which  betokened  that  we  had  not  yet  passed  out 
of  the  bounds  of  the  farms  on  the  prairie.  It  was  computed  that, 
unless  prevented  by  unforeseen  accidents,  we  ought  to  reach  the 
Falls  in  six  days.  The  whole  of  this  time  was  however  taken  up 
in  advancing  as  far  as  Lake  Pepin,  one  hundred  and  seventy 
miles  above  the  prairie,  and  nearly  four  more  were  necessary  for 
the  attainment  of  our  object.  To  give  you  the  outline  of  our  ex 
cursion  at  once,  I  will  mention,  that  we  paddled  forward  by  day, 
and  nightly  sought  some  snug  corner  of  the  forest,  either  on  the 
main,  or  in  the  islands — pitched  our  tent,  raised  our  fire,  cooked 
supper,  sang,  conversed,  and  looked  at  the  stars  till  we  were 
sleepy,  and  then  betook  ourselves  to  our  buffalo-robe  couch  till 
dawn." 

Some  75  or  80  miles  above  Prairie  du  Chien,  we  reach 
the  beautiful  prairie  called  Prairie  la  Crosse,  wThich  was  a 
favorite  ground  with  the  Indians  for  playing  ball  and  other 
games.  It  is  on  the  Wisconsin  side  of  the  Mississippi ;  and 
much  of  it  is  good  farming  land.  The  route  from  Prairie 
du  Chien  to  St.  Croix  lake  passes  this  prairie.  There  are 
already  some  settlements  here,  and  business  is  increasing. 


CAPTAIN    CARVER PRATT7 S    LANDING.  99 

Still  farther  up,  and  on  the  west,  or  Minnesota  side  of 
the  river,  is  Wapasha  Prairie  ;  this  is  a  splendid  prairie, 
both  for  beauty  and  for  agricultural  purposes,  and  plenty 
of  timber  near  by.  The  river  here  is  bordered  by  rugged 
and  precipitous  rocks,  with  intervals  in  the  ravines,  form 
ing  convenient  boat  landings.  Altogether,  this  is  an  at 
tractive  location. 

It  is  somewhat  noted  as  being  the  place  where,  in  1848, 
the  Winnebago  Indians  made  a  halt,  and  refused  to  remove 
farther  to  the  new  grounds  assigned  them,  beyond  the  Mis 
sissippi.  So  great  were  their  regrets  at  leaving  this  beau 
tiful  spot,  their  early  hunting  and  council  grounds,  and  the 
grave-places  of  their  fathers,  that  additional  forces  had  to 
be  summoned  from  the  Fort  down  at  Crawford,  to  compel 
them  to  leave  according  to  their  treaty. 

A  short  distance  alcove  here  is  one  of  the  places  where 
old  Captain  CARVER  pitched  his  tent,  in  early  days,  when 
trafficking  with  the  Indians  in  this  region.  . 

Some  distance  above  this  is  the  promising  town-site  of 
Pratt* s  Landing.  It  is  located  just  below  the  foot  of  Lake 
Pepin,  and  nearly  opposite  the  mouth  of  Chipaway  river ; 
and,  in  time,  will  probably  become  a  fine  town. 

**  The  whole  distance  to  Lake  Pepin,  the  mighty  river  flows 
through  a  deep  valley,  of  perhaps  two  miles  average  breadth, 
among  innumerable  islands,  and  under  steep  bluffs,  which  rise  fre 
quently  on  both  sides,  with  precipitous  fronts  to  the  hight  of  five 
hundred  feet.  Their  lower  slopes  near  the  river  are  mostly  clothed 
in  oak  forest,  and  many  of  the  summits  terminated  by  a  picturesque 
pile  of  highly-colored  rock,  of  eighty  feet  or  upward  perpendicular. 
Above  and  beyond  this  great  channel,  hollowed  out  in  the  country 
for. the  passage  of  the  Father  of  Waters,  the  country  on  both  sides 
seems  to  be  rolling  prairie. 

"  The  beauty  of  the  scenery — though  only  the  last  coloring  of 
autumn  lingered  on  the  forests  and  prairies — quite  took  us  by  sur 
prise  ;  and  nothing  can  be  more  opposite  than  the  impressions  sug 
gested  by  the  scenery  of  the  Mississippi  above  and  the  Mississippi 
below  its  junction  with  the  Missouri — here  a  scene  of  beauty  and 


100  WESTERN    PORTRAITURE. 

romance,  there  a  terribly  monotonous,  turbid,  and  swollen  stream. 

"  Lake  Pepiu  is,  in  fact,  nothing  but  a  basin  of  the  river,  twenty 
miles  long  and  three  broad.  It  is  entirely  without  islands,  and  is 
hemmed  in  by  bold  shores  abounding  with  interesting  details. 

"  From  the  upper  end,  it  took  us  three  days  to  reach  Fort  Snel- 
ling  at  the  junction  of  the  St.  Peter's  river  with  the  Mississippi ; 
the  character  of  the  intervening  scenery  is  interesting,  but  not  so 
much  so  as  lower  down.  At  the  point  of  junction,  however,  it  is 
truly  romantic.  Up  to  our  arrival  at  the  last-mentioned  Fort, 
which  lies  seven  miles  below  the  Falls,  the  weather  favored  us  in 
an  unhoped-for  degree.  During  the  week  that  we  were  the  guests 
of  the  gentlemen  posted  there,  a  few  inclement  days  passed  over  us, 
but  the  weather  again  held  up  so  as  to  admit  of  our  return  between 
the  8th  of  November  and  the  13th,  011  which  latter  day  we  entered 
the  Prairie  du  Chien,  after  an  absence  of  three  weeks.  But  in  this 
interval,  much  came  before  us  which  was  highly  interesting,  and 
my  next  shall  go  a  little  more  into  detail." 

Here  follows  a  chapter  of  more  particular  details  of 
that  romantic  and  perilous  trip  :  ** 

"  Our  pleasure  at  the  resumption  of  a  life  of  autumnal  adven 
ture,  similar  to  last  year's,  though  under  different  circumstances 
and  in  another  region,  was  considerable. 

"I  have  mentioned,  that  uncertain  as  the  occurrences  of  genial 
weather  might  now  be  in  this  latitude,  we  had  been  encouraged  to 
hope  that  the  delicious  season,  known  by  the  name  of  the  Indian 
Summer,  which  ordinarily  intervenes  between  the  fall  of  the  leaf 
and  the  commencement  of  the  severe  winter  of  the  north,  might 
yet  come  to  our  aid  in  the  prosecution  of  our  excursion.  It  is  true, 
the  north  wind  blew  while  we  were  at  Prairie  de  Chien,  sprinkling 
the  hights  with  sleet,  and  the  air  appeared  full  of  the  water-fowl 
pressing  to  the  south — led  by  Him  who  teaches  them  to  spread 
their  wings  upon  the  keen  blast,  and  seek  a  milder  climate  before 
the  winter  come ;  and  though  the  blackbirds  might  be  observed 
collecting  in  vast  flights,  and  then,  having  received  the  word  to  go 
forth,  rise  at  sunset,  and  by  one  commojn  impulse,  follow  their 
leaders  in  one  narrow,  continuous  stream  over  the  forest  and  prai 
ries  in  the  same  direction ;  and  though  the  gorgeous  foliage  of 
the  painted  forests,  with  its  thousand  hues  of  green,  yellow,  orange, 
red,  was  shaken  to  the  ground — still  we  Avere  not  deceived,  but 
before  the  lapse  of  many  days  we  saw  the  sleet  disappear — the 
wind  cease  to  agitate  the  river  and  the  forest— the  wild-fowl  pause 


INDIAN    SUMMER.  101 

in  their  passage,  and,  furling  their  pinions,  alight  by  myriads 
among  the  islands  and  marshes,  and,  as  though  by  enchantment, 
a  season  settle  down  upon  the  earth,  which,  for  its  peculiar  beau 
ties,  might  vie  with  the  most  poetical  and  delicious  in  the  circle 
of  the  year. 

"  To  what  shall  we  compare  the  Indian  Summer  ?  To  the  last 
bright  and  unexpected  flare  of  a  dying  taper — to  the  sudden  and 
short-lived  return  to  consciousness  and  apparent  hope  in  one 
stretched  upon  the  bed  of  death,  after  the  standers-by  have  deem 
ed  him  gone — or  to  the  warm,  transient,  but  rosy  glow  which  will 
often  steal  over  the  snows  of  the  distant  Alps,  after  the  sun  is  far 
below  the  Jura,  and  after  they  have  been  seen  rearing  themselves 
for  a  while,  cold  and  ghastly  white  over  the  horizon  ? 

"  During  the  Indian  Summer,  the  air  is  calm.  Glistening  strings 
of  gossamer,  woven  by  the  aeronaut  spider,  stream  across  the  land 
scape — all  nearer  objects  are  seen  through  a  dreamy  atmosphere 
filled  with  a  rich  golden  haze,  while  the  distance  melts  away  in 
violet  and  purple.  The  surface  of  the  river,  with  its  moving  flood 
of  silver,  reflects  all  objects  and  every  color  with  matchless  fidel 
ity — the  harsher  tones  of  the  rocks,  of  the  deep-brown  forests, 
and  of  the  yellow  prairies  appear  so  softened — the  reflection  of 
their  pale  tints  is  so  perfect,  and  such  a  similarity  of  color  and 
shade  pervades  the  earth,  the  air,  and  the  water,  that  all  three 
seemed  blended  together.  The  huge  piles  of  bleached  timber 
which  lie  stranded  in  the  shallows,  or  the  canoes  at  a  little  dis 
tance,  seem  suspended  in  air.  Whenever  the  silence  of  the  solitude 
is  broken,  echoes  seem  to  start  from  every  side.  Every  distant 
sound  is  musical ;  and  as  you  glide  along  you  might  believe  you 
were  in  a  dream.  The  series  of  pictures  presented  by  our  even 
advance  upon  the  surface  of  the  river,  seen  through  this  medium, 
and  under  these  circumstances,  have  left  on  my  mind  an  impres 
sion  of  beauty  which  will  never  be  effaced. 

"  Whether  we  glided  through  the  islands,  with  their  extensive 
flats  covered  with  poplar  and  willow — the  first  in  the  series  of 
forest  trees  which  will  hereafter  cover  them — skirted  the  drowned 
lands — paddled  along  the  bright  sand-bai'S,  with  their  huge  pile  of 
drift  timber — rustled  along  the  edge  of  some  bright-yellow  field  of 
reeds  and  Avild  rice,  startling  the  wild-fowl  from  their  meal — or  stem 
med  the  deep  and  powerful  current  near  the  foot  of  the  bluffs,  the 
scene  presented  to  our  passing  admiration  was  always  glorious  and 
beautiful. 

"  The  steep  line  of  rocky  and  similarly  moulded  summits  which, 


102  WESTERN   PORTRAITURE. 

commencing  with  Cap  de  Tiger,  excited  our  admiration  in  the  ear 
lier  part  of  our  course  as  they  rose — a  line  of  hills  cut  in  twain, 
from  the  right  bank  high  into  the  mellowed  haze,  were  pre-emi 
nent  for  the  beauty  of  their  coloring  and  form,  from  the  bright 
vermilion-colored  lichen  which  painted  the  bare  rock  at  the  sum 
mit,  to  the  strips  of  open,  oak-sprinkled  barrens  at  their  feet. 
The  action  of  water  upon  the  facjade  of  these  seemingly  castellated 
hills — groove  lying  beneath  groove,  plainly  indicated  the  gradual 
formation  of  the  broad  and  majestic  channel  by  which  the  river 
had  for  centuries  been  seeking  to  gain  the  level  of  the  ocean. 

"  What  would  you  have  me  describe  to  you  ?  Sunrise  with  its 
pale,  clear  hues — or  sunset  with  its  deepening  glories,  as  we  saw 
it  evening  after  evening  filling  the  broad  valley  with  gold  and  pur 
ple — both  were  matchlessly  beautiful ;  but  the  latter  was  the  scene 
of  the  greatest  enchantment. 

"  If  the  days  were  thus  delicious,  many  of  the  nights  were  not 
the  less  so,  and  I  have  to  exercise  a  species  of  self-control  not  to 
attempt  the  description  of  each  in  detail.  I  might  perhaps  venture 
to  fill  half  a  dozen  lines  upon  that  which  we  termed  the  Camp  of 
the  Peak,  where  we  lay  nestled  in  a  dense  forest,  overhung  by  one 
of  the  noble  summits  I  have  mentioned  above ;  or  one  of  those 
spent  on  the  islands  ;  or  the  Camp  of  the  Bent  Bough,  but  will  at 
all  events  postpone  them  till  I  see  what  is  in  advance,  and  mean 
while  give  you  a  little  idea  of  the  people  with  whom  we  were  as 
sociated. 

"  Our  progress  for  the  first  few  days  was  far  from  being  what 
we  had  expected.  The  canoe,  liable  to  injury  at  all  times  from  its 
extremely  fragile  nature,  being  merely  a  light  frame-work,  cover 
ed  with  birch  bark,  and  held  together  by  cross  splints,  and  to  be 
broken  and  snagged  by  running  foul  of  objects  in  the  shallows,  or 
to  be  strained  by  the  great  weight  which  it  carried,  and  still  more 
by  any  accident  in  its  daily  conveyance  to  and  from  the  shore  on 
the  backs  of  the  men — stood  in  need  of  constant  repair. 

"  Beside,  we  soon  found  that  most,  if  not  all  our  Crapauds,  as 
these  French  Canadians  are  jocularly  called,  were  in  league  with 
the  boat  to  keep  us  as  long  on  the  road  as  possible.  First,  because 
they  were  rogues  all.  They  had  been  born  without  consciences 
and  never  had  had  the  chance  of  acquiring  them  since.  Secondly, 
because  they  were  paid  by  the  day,  and  we  were  bound  to  feed 
them  as  long  as  they  were  in  our  service.  Thirdly,  because  they 
saw  that  we  were  honest  gentlemen,  traveling  for  amusement  and 
instruction — novices  in  the  arts  of  the  voyagenrs,  and  of  very  dif- 


CRAPAUDS THEIR  SONGS.  103 

ferent  habits  from  the  hard-grinding  traders  whom  they  usually 
served,  who  portioned  out  their  food  to  them  by  the  square  inch — 
keeping  their  wages  back,  if  they  did  not  do  their  duty.  You  will 
own  that  here  was  a  little  too  much  temptation  thrown  in  the 
way  of  men  who  profess  no  farther  morality  than  would  be  of  very 
easy  carriage  among  the  savages  by  whom  they  were  surrounded, 
and  no  religion  beyond  Indian  religion. 

"  Demaret  acted  as  pilot,  and  plied  the  stern-paddle,  as  the  boat 
was  his.  He  had  made  it  with  his  own  hands,  and  all  his  life  had 
been  a  voyageur.  His  qualifications  and  the  natural  turn  he  had 
for  this  kind  of  life  were  so  marked,  that  we  found  his  very  com 
panions  used  to  twit  him  with  having  '  been  born  with  a  piece  of 
birch  bark  in  his  hand.'  He  looked  like  no  class  of  human  beings 
I  ever  saw,  and  his  countenance,  which  was  chiefly  marked  by  the 
width  of  his  mouth,  bore  signs  of  both  Spanish  and  Indian  blood. 
When  he  sang,  he  sang  like  a  fox  with  his  tail  in  a  trap. 

"  Garde-Pied,  an  old  Canadian,  was  our  bowman.  Then  men 
tion  we  Guillaume,  fat  and  handsome — the  farcour  of  the  party, 
the  best  singer,  and,  I  believe  in  fact,  the  greatest  rogue  among 
us,  and  the  one  who  both  set  the  roguery  agoing  and  sustained  it. 
Alexandre,  Rousseau,  and  Henry,  were  common-place  rogues — 
that  is  to  say,  they  would  be  honest,  if  other  people  would  be  hon 
est  too.  Pascal,  a  mulatto,  held  about  the  same  tenets,  though,  I 
recollect,  he  had  a  fragment  of  a  conscience ;  and,  in  mentioning 
old  Julian,  a  Neapolitan  by  birth,  who  had  been  taken  by  the 
British — incorporated  with  the  Anglo-Swiss  regiment  de  Meuron 
— seen  service  in  India  and  subsequently  in  Canada — where  he  had 
been  discharged,  and  had  turned  Crapaud  in  his  old  age — I  may 
say  that  he  was  the  best,  the  most  sober,  and  most  obliging  man  in 
the  party,  and  the  only  one  in  whom  real  confidence  could  be 
placed. 

"For  the  rest,  they  were  all  men  who  would  dance  from  night 
to  morning  at  a  Gumbo  ball — sing  profane  or  pastoral  French 
songs,  hour  after  hour  on  the  water — drink  and  smoke — cheat 
their  creditors,  live  for  months  in  the  woods — work  like  slaves 
without  grumbling  when  they  could  not  help  it — swim  like  otters 
— maintain  their  French  gayety  of  character  on  most  occasions, 
but  grumble  incessantly  when  they  had  nothing  to  grumble  about. 
They  would  feed  like  so  many  hungry  wolves  as  long  as  there  was 
any  thing  to  eat,  knowing  no  medium ;  and  then  bear  the  pinch  of 
hunger  with  the  stoicism  of  the  Indian,  with  whom  most  of  them 
had  associated  from  infancy 


104  WESTERN    PORTRAITURE. 

"  They  measured  their  way,  not  by  mile?,  nor  leagues,  but 
by  pipes,  and  would  say — such  a  point  is  so  many  pipes  distant. 
They  generally  sang  in  their  peculiar  way  for  half  an  hour  after 
a  halt,  solo  and  chorus,  winding  up  with  an  Indian  yell,  or  the 
exclamation,  Hop  !  Hop  !  Sauvons-nous  !  and  would  then  continue 
silently  paddling  with  their  short  quick  stroke,  all  following  the 
time  indicated  by  the  bowman,  till  the  pipe  was  out,  or  till  they 
were  tired ;  when  at  a  signal,  they  would  throw  their  paddles 
across  the  boat,  give  them  a  roll  to  clear  the  blade  of  the  water, 
and  then  rest  for  a  few  minutes. 

"  A  compartment  in  the  center  of  the  canoe,  in  which  our  buf 
falo  robes  and  mats  were  eommodioxTsly  arranged,  was  our  ordi 
nary  couch.  Here  we  lay  in  luxurious  ease,  reading  and  chatting 
hour  after  hour. 

"  The  first  certain  light  which  broke  in  upon  us  as  to  the-real 
character  of  the  strange  race  with  whom  we  had  to  do — though 
the  singular  conduct  which  we  had  remarked  in  them  at  the  Prai 
rie  below,  had  given  us  warning — was  early  on  the  sixth  day, 
when  approaching  a  lonely  trading-house,  near  the  remarkable 
mountain  called  La  J^Iontagne  qui  se  trempe  a  V  cau,  scarce  a 
a  hundred  miles  on  our  way ;  when  their  long  faces,  shrugs,  and 
significant  gestures  gave  token  that  something  was  wrong. 

"In  effect,  we  found  that  this  devouring  squad  had— unaided 
by  us,  as  we  had  lived  principally  on  water-fowl — actually,  in  the 
course  of  six  days,  made  away  with  the  whole  of  the  provisions 
laid  in  with  more  than  usual  liberality  for  twelve  days'  consump 
tion  !  Upward  of  a  hundred  pounds  of  bacon,  beside  bread,  and 
potatoes,  and  beans  in  six  days!  Think  of  that!  We  had,  to  be 
sure,  noticed  that  they  had  brought  with  them  a  curiously -shaped 
iron  pot,  originally,  perhaps,  a  foot  in  depth ;  but  which,  having 
had  the  original  bottom  burned  out,  had  been  furnished  by  some 
frontier  tinker  with  a  fresh  one  of  such  form  and  dimensions  as 
gave  the  renovated  vessel  an  added  profundity  of  six  or  eight 
inches  more.  We  had  observed  that  this  marvelous  bowl  was  al 
ways  piled  up  to  the  very  edge  with  provisions  ;  and  that  frequent 
ly,  when  it  was  simmering  and  bubbling  over  the  fire  in  the  camp, 
our  rogues  would  stand  round  shrouding  it  from  our  too  close  ob 
servation. 

"  If  one  or  another  of  us  approached,  one  or  two  of  the  Cra- 
pauds  would  turn  to  us  with  an  air  of  perfect  famine  and  of  the 
greatest  tribulation — and  ejaculate,  grand  misers !  or,  il  fait 
frait  icit ! — giving  us  to  understand,  that  while  we  considered  our 


FORT    SPELLING INDIAN    CAMP CROSS    CAMP.         105 

common  position  as  one  full  of  amusement,  they  deemed  it  to  Ibe 
one  of  uncommon  trial. 

"  Moreover,  we  were  sometimes  awakened  hours  after  supper, 
when  all  had  appeared  to  retire  to  rest  for  the  night — it  might  be 
about  one  in  the  morning — by  loud  talking  and  joyous  sounds, 
and  peeping  forth  we  might  see  that  these  unhappy  mortals 
were  as  brisk  as  lions ;  sitting  about  the  fire ;  passing  the  joke 
from  one  to  another — by  the  help  of  long  sharply-pointed  sticks, 
fishing  up  meat  from  the  depths  of  that  fathomless  pot ;  and  mak 
ing  a  very  hearty  meal,  for  which,  as  to  our  certain  knowledge,  a 
hearty  supper  preceded  it,  and  a  no  less  hearty  breakfast  followed 
it  at  dawn — we  had  unfortunately  no  name  in  our  vocabulary. 
Still,  though  it  might  cross  our  minds  that  they  were  a  little  lavish 
of  the  provisions,  yet  we  never  dreamed  of  a  famine  before  we 
should  reach  Fort  Snelling.  However,  there  was  now  no  doubt 
about  it,  and  it  was  in  vain  to  murmur ;  and  here  at  the  last 
trading-post  we  had  still  to  lay  in  fresh  stock. 

"  Their  songs  were  very  interesting  to  us,  in  spite  of  the  hor 
rible  French  in  which  they  were  couched,  and  the  nonsense  they 
contained  ;  as  we  detected  in  them  many  signs  of  their  origin  on 
the  plains,  and  in  the  vineyards  of  La  belle  France,  though  now 
loaded  with  allusions  to  the  peculiar  scenery,  manners,  and  cir 
cumstances  of  the  country  to  which  they  had  been  transplanted. 
In  many  there  was  an  air  of  Arcadian  and  pastoral  simplicity 
which  was  almost  touching,  at  the  same  time  that  we  knew  that 
the  singers  had  no  simplicity  about  them,  and  that  their  character 
was  much  more  that  of  the  wolf  than  of  the  sheep.  The  airs  were 
not  unfrequently  truly  melodious,  and  all  were  characteristic,  and 
chimed  in  well  with  our  position. 

"  I  may  elsewhere  have  given  you  sundry  assurances  of  the 
delights  of  Indian  Encampments  in  the  forests ;  from  the  pleasant 
ideas  that  these  may  have  conveyed  I  would  take  nothing.  They 
are  many  and  great ;  and  far  advanced  as  the  season  was,  we  were 
yet  alive  to  them  for  a  month  to  come,  even  in  weather  that  might 
be  deemed  inclement  elsewhere.  Lest,  however,  you  should  ac 
cuse  me  of  a  disposition  to  paint  every  thing  couleur  de  rose,  and 
to  throw  dust  both  in  my  own  eyes  and  those  of  my  neighbors — 
here  follows  a  page  of  miseries.  I  remember  one  camp,  which  we 
called  Cross  Camp,  from  the  circumstance  of  all  going  wrong. 
It  was,  I  believe,  the  second  in  this  excursion." 

Here  our  tourist  gives  a  long  detailed  account  of  the 


106  WESTERN    PORTRAITURE. 

many  vexations  and  petty  calamities  which  harassed 
them  in  pitching  their  tent ;  dressing,  cooking,  and  upset 
ting  their  supper ;  tormented  with  smoke,  wind,  and  ashes ; 
with  many  other  kindred  difficulties,  such  as  burning  their 
fingers  and  their  viands,  mislaying  articles,  etc.  While 
it  seems,  too,  they  had  not  selected  the  most  felicitous 
place  for  their  supper-room,  it  being  "  a  confined  situation 
among  thickets  of  towering  dry  grass  and  brushwood." 
Such  were  some  of  the  incidents  which  led  to  the  cogno 
men  of  Cross  Camp. 

"  Jaded  and  gloomy,  -while  the  supper  is  cooking,  you  lie  down 
with  a  book  in  your  hand,  say,  for  example,  '  Burton  on  Melan 
choly,'  which,  by-the-by,  was  the  only  work,  beside  a  BIBLE,  that 
we  had  with  us.  You  stretch  yourself  on  your  blanket  in  your 
corner  of  the  tent,  but  find  that  beside  lying  on  an  unfortunate 
slope  which  makes  your  heels  rise  higher  than  your  head,  there  is 
under  you  a  stubborn  knot  of  hard  wood,  which  no  coaxing  of 
yours  can  extract,  and  which  nothing  but  a  turn  out,  or  application 
of  the  ax,  will  rid  you  of." 

"  But,  n'importe — the  coffee  is  replaced — the  beef-steaks  get 
thoroughly  burned  on  one  side — the  ducks  are  pronounced  to  be 
cooked  because  the  waistcoat  is  reduced  to  a  perfect  cinder,  and 
because  the  birds  insist  upon  taking  fire.  The 'medicine-chest,' 
as  we  called  our  store-box,  is  brought  out,  and  preparations  for  a 
meal  seriously  attempted.  It  is  soon  found  that  notwithstanding 
all  losses  and  mischances  there  are  still  two  things  left,  appetite 
and  abundance  ;  and  though  nothing,  perhaps,  is  done  with  real 
gastronomic  nicety,  yet,  after  a  day  spent  in  the  open  air,  every 
thing  has  a  relish  which  no  satice  could  give. 

"  As  you  have  doubtless  experienced,  nothing  predisposes  to 
complacent  good  humor  so  much  as  a  satisfied  appetite;  and,  by 
the  time  supper  is  ended,  and  the  moon  has  risen,  and  the  bright 
embers  free  from  smoke  are  glowing  in  the  wind,  you  are  ready  to 
laugh  together  at  every  petty  vexation.  However,  we  learned 
wisdom  at  the  Cross  Camp,  and  forthwith  hired  Rousseau  to 
look  to  our  cooking  at  his  own  fire — keeping  possession  of  the 
coffee-pot  alone,  and  henceforth  our  miseries  were  very  sensibly 
diminished. 

"  La  Montague  qui  se  trempe  a  V  eau,  lies  about  one  hundred 


LAKE    PEPIN INDIANS.  107 

miles  above  Prairie  du  Chien.  It  is  remarkable  as  being  com 
pletely  surrounded  by  the  waters  of  the  Mississippi.  The  Indians 
have  a  tradition  that  on  a  certain  day  in  the  year  it  always  sinks 
a. little  into  the  earth. 

"  We  had  passed  the  domains  of  the  Winnebagoes,  and  were  now 
in  the  country  inhabited  by  the  tribe  of  the  Dacota  Indians,  or 
Sioux,  one  of  the  most  numerous  of  the  present  day,  inhabiting  a 
wide  extent  of  country  between  the  Missouri  and  Mississippi. 

"  Their  villages,  some  of  which  are  very  strikingly  situated — 
that  on  Prairie  a.  V  Jlil,  for  instance — were  all  deserted,  as  the 
Indians  were  now  absent  on  their  hunting  grounds.  Many,  how 
ever,  lingered  on  the  river,  and  we  now  saw  daily  some  of  them 
encamped  on  the  banks  in  their  commodious  conical  skin  tents ; 
and  the  ordinary  silence  of  our  encampments  was  frequently  broken 
by  the  distant  howling  of  the  Indian  dogs,  or  the  singing  and  yell 
ing  of  the  savages. 

"  Lake  Pepin  lay  in  our  path,  soon  after  the  renewal  of  our 
stock  of  provisions ;  and  the  passage  was  looked  forward  to  with 
curiosity  by  us,  and  a  species  of  awe  by  the  Crapauds,  as  its  sur 
face  is  often  agitated  by  storms,  and  many  are  the  terrors  of  a  long 
spit  of  sand  aJbout  the  center,  which  juts  far  into  the  lake  from  the 
westward,  under  the  name  of  the  Pointe  aux  Sables. 

"  We  had  been  detained  nearly  a  whole  day  by  an  accident  and 
the  illness  of  Demaret,  a  few  miles  below  the  southern  extremity, 
where  the  thermometer  of  Fahrenheit  registered  fifteen  degrees 
below  the  freezing  point  during  the  night,  while  the  surface  of  the 
river  was  darkened  by  a  strong  north  wind  ;  however,  we  moved 
forward  to  a  point  of  yellow  sand  at  the  entrance  toward  evening, 
and.  finding  that  the  old  saying,  '  sun  down,  wind  down,'  was  likely 
to  be  verified,  prepared  for  the  passage  during  the  ensuing  night. 
By  degrees  the  miniature  billows  with  their  crests  of  foam  dimin 
ished  in  size,  and  sunk  into  their  bed,  and  an  hour  after  sunset  the 
whole  surface  was  as  tranquil  as  a  sheet  of  silver.  Under  such 
auspicious  circumstances,  our  men  were  induced  to  proceed,  and 
our  frail  canoe  glided  over  the  broad  surface  for  some  hours  with 
out  interruption. 

"  The  ordinary  mode  of  navigation  takes  you  across  a  bight  in 
the  shore,  to  the  foot  of  the  bluffs  which  bound  to  the  east,  and 
along  them  as  far  as  the  celebrated  Cap  a  la  Fille,  or  Maiden's 
Rock,  when  an  attempt  is  generally  made  to  cross  the  broadest 
part  of  the  lake,  weather  the  Pointe  aux  Sables,  and  get  round  a 
rocky  headland,  which  forms  the  division  between  the  upper  and 


108  WESTERN    PORTRAITURE. 

lower  portions  of  Lake  Pepin,  after  which  five  or  six  miles  bring 
you  to  the  northern  inlet. 

"  As  we  neared  the  base  of  the  Maiden's  Rock,  a  ruddy  light 
showed  us  that  our  acquaintances  in  the  barge,  with  whom  we  had 
come  in  contact  more  than  once  during  the  past  week,  and  who  had 
passed  us  at  our  last  halting  place,  had -been  induced  to  lie  to  for 
the  night  in  the  sheltered  cove  at  its  foot.  A  moment's  halt  was 
allowed  for  an  exchange  of  salutations,  but  in  pursuance  of  our 
object,  we  judged  it  advisable  to  attempt  the  traversee,  as  the  wind 
gave  notice  of  again  springing  up ;  and  proceeding,  we  left  them  to 
their  repose,  and  directed  the  bow  of  the  canoe  toward  the  dark 
Cape  on  the  opposite  shore.  Meanwhile,  the  sky  clouded  up ;  the 
moon  and  stars  peeped  by  fits  through  the  fissures  in  the  fleecy 
clouds,  the  waves  began  to  rise,  and  to  heave  the  brittle  vessel  un 
der  us  in  an  unwonted  manner,  straining  her  so  as  to  render  con 
stant  attention  to  baling  necessary. 

"  However,  the  energies  of  the  Crapauds,  though  their  leader  was 
disabled  by  the  fever  and  ague,  were  excited ;  and  with  an  occa 
sional  yell  and  cry  of  encouragement,  we  perceived  that  we  were 
making  advance.  Long,  however,  as  the  wind  was  against  us,  we 
saw  the  dreaded  Pointe  aux  Sables  gleaming  to  the  leeward ;  and 
it  was  not  without  thankfulness,  that,  after  upward  of  an  hour's 
hard  struggle  and  unremitted  labor,  we  weathered  the  great  Cape, 
and  got  into  calmer  water.  Nous  sommes  sauvis  !  Nous  sommcs 
sauvi-s !  Maintenant  la  pipe  !  said  our  old  bowman,  as  he  threw 
down  his  paddle  behind  the  bow,  and  gave  the  signal  for  a  short 
repose. 

"  The  termination  of  another  hour  found  us  stemming  the  cur 
rent  of  the  Mississippi  again,  as  it  poured  into  the  lake  amid  pop 
lar  islands,  on  one  of  which  we  speedily  encamped.  I  have  men 
tioned  that  from  hence  three  days  were  occupied  in  reaching  Fort 
Snelling.  The  wind  turning  more  to  the  southward,  gave  us  an 
opportunity  of  rigging  and  hoisting  a  blanket  as  a  sail,  under 
shadow  and  favor  of  which  our  Crapauds  smoked  their  pipes  in 
luxurious  idleness.  For  all  the  wonders  and  remarkable  points  on 
the  passage — the  entrance  of  the  river  St.  Croix,  La  Grange,  Pointe 
des  Pins,  Bois  de  Mcdecine,  etc.,  I  must  refer  you  to  Schoolcraft, 
Carver,  and  other  writers  on  this  distant  country.  We  passed  more 
than  one  permanent  village  of  the  Sioux,  now  'all  deserted ;  the 
houses  were  made  of  rude  poles  covered  with  pieces  of  oak  bark, 
and  swarmed  with  fleas,  numerous  as  the  dust.  In  their  vicinity 
were  seen  the  dead  bodies  of  their  chiefs,  wasting  in  the  air,  in- 


INDIAN    CAMPS   AND    SICKNESS.  109 

closed  in  rude  wooden  cases,  elevated  upon  scaffolds  raised  eight  or 
ten  feet  abovtf  the  surface. 

"  Many  of  the  Sioux  still  lingered  on  the  river,  and  would  have 
perhaps  given  us  more  of  their  presence  at  our  encampments  than 
might  have  been  agreeable,  had  we  halted  in  their  immediate  vi 
cinity.  On  one  occasion  a  large  canoe  full  of  Indians  came  to  us 
just  as  we  had  landed,  with  every  disposition  to  do  as  they  had 
done  before — watch  our  movements,  and  wait  till  we  should  ask 
them  to  partake  of  our  hospitality — but  all  of  a  sudden,  by  com 
mon  consent,  they  stole  back  to  their  canoe,  and  slipped  down  the 
stream.  They  had  seen  Demaret  brought  on  shore,  wrapped  up 
in  his  blankets,  and  placed  before  the  fire,  sick  and  helpless ;  and 
it  was  probable  that  the  idea  of  Cholera,  from  which  the  Indians 
on  the  Mississippi  had  suffered  greatly  the  preceding  year,  had 
occurred  to  them.  A  large  number  were  encamped  on  the  oppo 
site  side  all  night,  where  they  whooped  and  whistled  around  their 
tents  ;  but  not  one  could  be  lured  to  venture  near  us.  The  follow 
ing  day — it  was  that  of  our  arrival  at  the  Fort — we  came  upon  a 
very  large  encampment  of  the  same  tribe,  stretching  along  the 
forested  shore,  just  above  a  range  of  beautiful  white  sandstone  ac 
clivities.  There  may  have  been  thirty  or  forty  lodges ;  among 
which  we  landed,  partly  from  curiosity,  and  partly  to  barter  for 
Indian  pipes  and  ornaments,  of  which  my  companion  was  desirous 
of  making  a  collection. 

"  We  found  very  few  males  in  the  lodges,  but  squaws,  children, 
and  dogs  in  great  numbers,  in  every  hut." 

Our  traveler  here  gives  a  long  and  sad  description  of 
the  Indians,  their  lodges,  the  "  old  squaws,"  and  a  visit, 
particularly,  to  one  lodge  where  were  some  sick  children, 
with  a  motley  group  around  them,  and  all  looked  to  him 
for  medical  aid,  to  the  relief  of  the  sick.  He  finally  com 
mences  the  duties  of  the  doctor  : 

"  On  my  right  sat  an  old  Sioux  warrior,  in  his  breech-cloth, 
moccasins,  and  dingy  blanket.  He  was,  like  many  of  his  tribe, 
finely  modeled,  and  with  an  agreeable  cast  of  face.  To  the  left 
was  seated  a  young  girl,  about  ten  years  old,  garbed  in  the  dark 
blue  petticoat  commonly  worn  by  her  sex,  with  a  blanket  over  her 
shoulders.  Her  neighbor  was  a  male,  about  the  same  age.  Three 
aged  squaws,  including  my  conductress,  filled  up  the  remainder  of 
10 


110  WESTER^    PORTRAITURE. 

the  space  round  the  small  heap  of  red  embers,  which,  with  their 
white  ashes,  occupied  the  center.  * 

"  Though  all  the  three  females  were  patterns  of  ugliness,  both  in 
persons  and  physiognomy,  I  think  that  the  old  squaw  who  enticed 
me  hither  bore  away  the  palm ;  and  there  we  sat,  crowded  together 
with  our  noses  over  the  little  fire.  Sufficient  light  was  afforded 
from  the  top  of  the  cone,  where  an  aperture  was  left  to  give  issue 
to  the  smoke,  and  by  divers  cracks  in  the  skins,  to  see  this ;  and 
moreover  that  the  wigwam  contained  nothing  beyond  the  most  or 
dinary  Indian  utensils  and  furniture. 

"  A  most  affectionate  grunt  and  shake  of  the  hand  passed  be 
tween  the  old  Sioux,  the  squaws,  and  myself,  the  instant  I  seated 
myself;  and  then,  as  a  matter  of  course,  the  small  redstone  pipe 
was  filled  with  tobacco  and  kinnickkinick,  lighted,  and  passed 
round  from  one  to  another. 

"  After  a  brief  silence,  followed  by  a  few  explanatory  words,  as 
I  suppose,  between  the  elders  of  the  party,  the  Indian  turned  to 
me,  made  me  a  speech,  accompanied  with  appropriate  gestures. 
He  pointed  to  the  girl,  and  then  to  the  boy,  both  of  whom  were 
evidently  in  poor  health,  and  I  was  now  not  slow  in  ascertaining 
the  purpose  of  my  being  brought  here — which  was  neither  more 
nor  less  than  to  act  the  doctor  and  to  cure  his  family.  This, 
though  I  am  no  physicianer,  set  me  perfectly  at  ease,  as  we  had 
medicine  in  plenty  in  the  canoe,  at  his  service,  and  that  of  the 
strongest  and  most  efficacious  kind,  if  properly  administered. 
After  listening  with  becoming  gravity,  I  grunted  in  the  most  ap 
proved  fashion,  to  signify  my  perfect  intelligence  and  readiness  to 
do  as  he  desired,  and  then  proceeded  to  examine  my  patients.  One 
thing  you  may  depend  upon.  I  resolved,  if  I  could  do  them  no 
good,  not  to  do  the  poor  creatures  any  harm. 

"  During  an  interval  of  utter  silence  I  felt  the  pulses  of  the 
two  children — opened  their  mouths  and  peeped  at  their  tongues, 
and  speedily  satisfied  myself  that  they  must  have  the  fever  and 
ague,  that  being  the  common  disease  of  the  season  and  country. 
Hereupon,  turning  to  the  warrior,  I  gave  a  grunt  of  interrogation, 
being  one  which  ascends  the  scale  of  about  half  an  octave ;  and 
followed  it  by  pointing  to  the  children  and  giving  a  violent  shiver, 
thereby  hazarding  my  opinion  as  to  the  kind  of  malady  by  which 
they  were  afflicted. 

"  The  general  satisfaction  which  this  announcement  gave,  pro 
duced  a  chorus  of  sounds  such  as  might  proceed  from  the  well- 
furnished  sty  of  a  Pennsylvania  farmer  on  the  introduction  of  a 


GREAT    MEDICINE THE    FORT.  Ill 

plentiful  supply  of  squashes ;  and,  emboldened  by  my  success,  I 
proceeded  forthwith,  by  aid  of  a  calabash  of  water  and  an  ordinary 
degree  of  assurance,  to  prescribe  and  administer  sundry  harmless 
pills  which  I  fetched  from  the  canoe>  at  the  rate  of  two  to  the  girl 
and  three  to  the  boy ;  and  after  signifying  to  the  old  warrior  and 
his  squaws  that  I  had  done  what  I  could,  but  that  they  must  look 
to  the  Great  Spirit  for  cure,  and  giving  them  a  few  biscuits,  I  left 
them  amid  a  clamor  of  sounds  which  doubtless  were  meant  for 
blessings  and  as  marks  of  admiration,  though  they  would  hardly 
have  been  interpreted  as  such  in  a  civilized  country. 

"  The  curiosity  of  Pourtales  and  M'Euen  to  know  my  adventures, 
was  met  by  a  corresponding  air  of  mystery  on  my  part,  such  as 
did  credit  to  my  newly  acquired  Indian  title  of  The  Great  Medi 
cine. 

"  Our  visit  terminated,  and  we  proceeded.  Toward  evening  we 
descried  the  long  looked-for  Fort,  with  its  towers  and  imposing 
extent  of  wall  crowning  the  high  angular  bluif,  at  whose  base  the 
upper  branch  of  the  St.  Peter's  enters  the  Mississippi ;  and  paddling 
swiftly  up  the  lower  channel,  a  large  triangular  island  separating 
the  two,  we  landed  and  were  most  hospitably  received  by  the  offi 
cers  on  duty.  We  were  forthwith  furnished  with  quarters  in  the 
Fort  above,  while  the  Crapauds  pitched  a  tent  under  the  shadow 
of  the  bluff  by  the  water's  edge,  got  their  canoe  on  shore,  and  set 
their  enormous  pot  a  boiling  forthwith.  I  believe  they  never  saw 
the  bottom  of  it,  nor  suffered  it  to  cool  during  the  whole  week  of 
their  stay.  They  did  not  forget,  whenever  we  visited  them,  to  talk 
a  great  deal  about  misere  !  at  the  same  time  that  they  had  nothing 
to  do  but  what  they  loved  best— eat  and  sleep.  They  are  a  singu 
lar  race,  half  Indian,  half  French,  with  a  dash  of  the  prairie 
wolf. 

"  Meanwhile  we  had  been  admitted  to  full  participation  in  the 
rights  of  hospitality  within  the  Fort,  and  were  furnished  with 
every  needful  accommodation.  We  spread  our  buffalo  skins  and 
blankets  in  an  unoccupied  apartment,  and  slept  in  quiet;  not  for 
getting  however  in  the  course  of  the  evening  to  ascend  one  of  the 
bastions,  and  listen  to  the  roar  of  the  Great  Falls  rising  on  the 
night  air  at  a  distance  of  seven  miles." 


MINNESOTA. 


BEFORE  entering  into  the  history,  boundaries,  business, 
towns,  etc.,  of  this  young  Territory,  I  leave  our  traveler  to 
finish  his  story ;  when  more  minute  particulars  will  be 
furnished : 

"  The  military  post  at  the  junction  of  the  St.  Peter's  river  with 
the  main  stream,  is  the  most  northerly  station  maintained  by  the 
United  States  in  the  valley  of  the  Mississippi.  The  Military  Re 
servation  on  which  it  lies,  purchased  by  Government  from  the 
Sioux,  forms  a  parallelogram  of  eighteen  miles  by  seven.  The 
Fortification  has  much  more  pretension  both  to  regularity  of  de 
sign  and  picturesque  situation  than  any  of  its  fellows  along  the 
frontier — the  outer  wall  inclosing  a  lozenge-shaped  area  of  con 
siderable  size,  surrounded  by  the  barracks,  officers'  quarters,  and 
other  offices.  The  magazine  and  round  bastion  being  at  one  extrem 
ity,  and  the  commander's  house  at  the  other  nearest  the  angle  of 
the  rock  overlooking  both  rivers.  Only  three  companies  were  sta 
tioned  here  at  the  time  of  our  visit.  A  picturesque  octagonal 
tower  stands  at  the  termination  of  the  southern  line  of  wall  over 
looking  the  sloping  ascent  from  the  St.  Peter's.  The  height  of  the 
foundation  above  the  rivers  may  be  upward  of  one  hundred  feet. 
It  has  an  appearance  of  strength  which  is  hardly  confirmed  on  a 
nearer  survey  ;  and  the  impression  you  carry  away  is,  that  for  the 
purposes  of  Indian  warfare  it  is  far  too  strong  and  important  a 
work,  while  its  position  would  not  avail  it  much  in  an  attack  from 
regular  troops,  as  the  interior  is  commanded  from  a  rise  on  the 
land  immediately  behind.  The  idea  is  farther  suggested,  that  the 
strong  stone  wall  was  rather  erected  to  keep  the  garrison  in,  than 
the  enemy  out.  Though  adapted  for  mounting  cannon  if  needful, 


113 

the  walls  were  unprovided  with  those  weapons ;  and  the  only  piece 
of  ordnance  that  I  detected  out  of  the  magazine,  was  an  old  churn 
thrust  gallantly  through  one  of  the  embrasures.  We  were  how 
ever  far  from  complaining  of  the  extra  expense  and  taste  which 
the  worthy  officer  whose  name  it  bears  had  expended  on  the  erec 
tion  of  Fort  Snelling,  as  it  is  in  every  way  an  addition  to  the 
sublime  landscape  in  which  it  is  situated. 

"  The  view  from  the  angle  of  the  wall  at  the  extreme  point,  is 
highly  romantic.  To  your  left  lies  the  broad  deep  valley  of  the 
Mississippi,  with  the  opposite  hights  descending  precipitously  to 
the  water's  edge ;  and  to  the  right  and  in  front,  the  St.  Peter's,  a 
broad  stream,  worthy  from  its  size,  length  of  course,  and  the  num 
ber  of  tributaries  which  it  receives,  to  be  called  the  Western  Fork 
of  the  Great  River  itself.  It  is  seen  flowing  through  a  compara 
tively  open  vale,  with  swelling  hills  and  intermingling  forest  and 
prairie,  for  many  miles  above  the  point  of  junction.  As  it  ap 
proaches  the  Mississippi,  the  volume  of  water  divides  into  two 
branches ;  that  on  the  right,  pursues  the  general  course  of  the 
river  above,  and  enters  the  Mississippi  at  an  angle  of  perhaps  fifty 
degrees  directly  under  the  walls  of  the  Fort ;  while  the  Bother, 
keeping  to  the  base  of  the  high  prairie  lands  which  rise  above  it 
to  a  notable  summit  called  the  Pilot  Knob,  enters  the  Mississippi 
lower  down.  The  triangular  island  thus  formed  between  the 
rivers  lies  immediately  under  the  Fort.  Its  level  surface  is  par 
tially  cultivated,  but  toward  the  lower  extremity  thickly  covered 
with  wood.  Beyond  their  junction,  the  united  streams  are  seen 
gliding  at  the  base  of  high  cliffs  into  the  narrowing  valley  below. 
Forests,  and  these  of  the  most  picturesque  character,  interspersed 
with  strips  of  prairie,  clothe  a  great  portion  of  the  distant  view. 

"  A  little  cluster  of  trading  houses  is  situated  on  the  right 
branch  of  the  St.  Peter's,  and  here  and  there  on  the  shores,  and 
on  the  island,  you  saw  the  dark  conicle  tents  of  the  wandering 
Sioux.  A  more  striking  scene  we  had  not  met  with  in  the  United 
States,  and  hardly  any  that  could  vie  with  it  for  picturesque 
beauty,  even  at  this  unfavorable  season.  What  must  it  be  in 
spring  when  the  forests  put  forth  their  young  leaves,  and  the  prai 
ries  are  clothed  in  verdure  !  From  the  summit  of  the  Pilot  Knob, 
surmounted  by  the  tomb  of  an  Indian  Chief,  the  view  is  most  ex 
tended  and  interesting;  comprising  both  rivers  before  and  after 
their  junction,  the  Fort  in  all  its  details,  and  a  wide  stretch  of 
level  country  to  the  north  and  west  beyond  the  Great  Falls.  The 
Falls  were  of  course  a  main  object  of  our  curiosity,  but  for  a  few 


114  WESTERN    PORTRAITURE. 

days  we  were  prevented  from  visiting  them  by  very  rough  and  wet 
weather. 

"  In  the  meantime  we  were  daily  in  the  lodges  of  the  Sioux  and 
the  Chippewas  encamped  near  the  Reservation  or  near  the  trading 
houses." 

The  Territory  of  Minnesota,  at  this  time,  probably  does 
not  contain  less  than  9,000  to  10,000  population.  And  the 
village  of  St.  Pauls,  probably  has  1,500 ;  Stillwater,  1,200 ; 
Crow  Wing,  500;  St.  Anthony,  700;  Mendota,  200;  St. 
Croix,  300 ;  there  are  other  smaller  towns.  It  is  not 
claimed  that  the  above  are  precise  statements  of  the  pop 
ulation,  but  as  nearly  as  can  be  obtained.  In  1849  the 
population  of  this  territory  was  4,780. 

Minnesota  is  rapidly  filling  up,  a  large  portion  being 
from  Maine,  the  rugged  climate  of  that  state  somewhat 
resembling  that  of  the  Territory. 

ST.  PAULS  is  situated  on  the  north  bank  of  the  Missis 
sippi,  near  the  head  of  navigation,  15  miles  by  water,  and 
8  miles  by  land,  below  the  Falls  of  St.  Anthony.  The 
central  portion  of  the  town  is  a  level,  beautiful  plateau, 
terminating  on  the  river  in  a  precipitous  bluff  about  80 
feet  high.  The  bluff  recedes  from  the  river  at  the  upper 
and  lower  end  of  the  town,  forming  two  landings. 

On  the  west  bank  of  the  Mississippi,  and  below  the 
mouth  of  St.  Peter's  river,  is  the  village  of  Mendota, 
formerly  St.  Peters,  and  for  some  time  was  occupied  by 
the  American  Fur  Company.  Its  location  is  favorable  to 
command  the  trade  of  the  northwestern  rivers.  This  is  a 
delightful  country  in  point  of  health,  scenery,  wild  fruits ; 
and  many  parts  for  farming.  There  are  some  fine  lakes 
west  and  north  of  this  point. 

I  now  resume  Mr.  Latrobe's  narrative : 

"  In  mentioning  the  details  of  the  landscape  at  St.  Peter's,  I 
have  omitted  one  feature  in  it,  which  is  peculiar.  The  upper  stra 
tum  of  the  country,  in  which  these  rivers  have  grooved  their  deep 
channels,  consists  of  beds  of  limestone  resting  upon  thick  layers 


HOUSE    OP    STONE LAUGHING   WATER.  115 

of  the  purest  and  whitest  sand  imaginable ;  and  wherever  the  ac 
clivity  is  precipitous  and  the  latter  are  exposed  to  the  air,  they 
form,  from  their  brilliant  hue,  a  remarkable  trait  of  the  land 
scenery. 

"  A  few  miles  below  the  Fort,  a  small  subterraneous  rivulet 
comes  rippling  out  of  a  cavern,  called  by  the  Indians  the  House 
of  Stone.  The  cave  may  be  traced  for  a  very  considerable  dis 
tance  into  the  bowels  of  the  earth,  under  the  limestone,  and  al 
together  within  the  sand  bed,  and  a  more  beautiful  sight  than  that 
presented  by  the  snow-white  walls,  roof,  and  flooring,  with  the 
crystal  stream  meandering  over  the  floor,  I  have  rarely  seen.  No 
mound  or  tumulus  is  known  to  exist  in  this  neighborhood,  but 
there  is  a  most  singular  mass  of  sandstone  lying  on  the  open  Prai 
rie,  about  twenty-five  miles  to  the  southeast  of  Fort  Snelling.  It 
is  perfectly  isolated,  eighty  feet  high,  with  a  base  line  of  from 
thirty  to  forty  feet  in  length.  It  tapers  irregularly,  and  has  an 
area  of  about  three  feet  square  on  the  summit  as  far  as  can  be 
guessed,  as  it  is  inaccessible.  It  is  called  the  Standing  Stone  by 
the  Indians,  and  considered  as  a  '  Great  Medicine.' 

"  But  the  Falls  of  St.  Anthony  !  The  first  fine  day  we  turned 
our  faces  in  the  direction  of  the  Hahamina  !  the  Laughing  TVater, 
as  the  Indian  language,  rich  in  the  poetry  of  nature,  styles  this 
remote  cataract — for  cataract  it  is,  despite  its  insignificant  hight, 
compared  with  others.  Here  the  Mississippi — after  a  course  of 
three  hundred  miles,  draining  a  dreary  region,  where  it  would  ap 
pear  that  a  species  of  chaos  still  reigns,  and  the  land  and  water 
are  not  yet  fairly  separated  from  each  other — commences  the 
second  great  division  of  its  remaining  course  of  upward  of  two 
thousand  miles  to  the  ocean. 

"  The  surface  of  the  river  at  the  St.  Peter's  has  been  calculated 
to  be  elevated  680  feet  above  the  tide-water.  Above  the  Falls,  the 
breadth  is  between  five  and  six  hundred  yards,  and  below,  it  con 
tracts  in  a  narrow  gorge  to  one  third  that  width,  till  it  reaches  the 
Fork,  and  forms  its  junction  with  the  St.  Peter's.  The  long  line 
of  the  Fall,  which  is  in  all  its  parts  more  or  less  interrupted  by 
the  fragments  of  the  limestone  which  fall  down  as  the  force  of  the 
water  undermines  them  by  the  removal  of  the  soft  sand  under 
neath,  is  farther  interrupted  near  the  left  bank  by  an  island  cov 
ered  with  trees.  A  second  island  stands  in  the  river,  in  advance 
of  the  right  hand  divison  of  the  Fall,  with  steep  perpendicular 
sides,  and  bastion-like  angles,  resulting  from  the  peculiar  geo 
logical  formation  of  the  district. 


116  WESTERN    PORTRAITURE. 

"  Though  I  admit  that  the  whole  had  the  appearance  of  an  im 
mense  wear,  and  that  the  open  face  of  the  country  for  many  miles 
round,  can  hardly  lay  claim  to  picturesque  beauty,  yet  the  vast 
size  of  the  body  of  water  thus  seen  leaping  from  a  higher  to  a 
lower  region,  rendered  the  scene  truly  majestic.  It  is  still  the 
mighty  Mississippi !" 

The  dimensions  of  the  Falls  at  St.  Anthony  have  been 
variously  stated ;  but  the  survey,  by  the  officers  at  Fort 
Snelling,  gives  the  following :  From  the  west  bank  to  the 
island,  634  feet ;  across  the  island,  276 ;  the  east  fall,  300 
• — total  width  of  river,  1,210  feet.  The  perpendicular  fall 
varies  from  25  to  30  feet. 

It  is  said  that  Father  Hennepin  gave  the  name  to  these 
falls.  Lieutenant  Pike,  when  he  explored  the  river,  esti 
mated  the  fall  to  be  58  feet  in  a  distance  of  260  rods  port 
age  ; .  and  to  the  foot  of  the  rapids,  a  distance  of  several 
miles,  he  states  the  entire  fall  to  be  about  100  feet. 

At  this  point  there  are  nearly  a  dozen  saw-mills;  but 
they  are  scarcely  able  to  supply  the  demand  for  lumber. 
But  the  number  of  mills  are  increasing  every  year. 

The  falls  here,  like  much  of  the  country,  has  its  start 
ling  legendary.  The  Indians  tell  you,  that  a  young  Dacota 
mother,  goaded  by  jealousy — the  father  of  her  children 
having  taken  another  wife — unmoored  her  canoe  above  the 
Great  Fall,  and  seating  herself  and  her  children  in  it,  sang 
her  death-song,  and  went  over  the  foaming  acclivity  in  the 
face  and  amid  the  shrieks  of  her  tribe.  And  often,  the  In 
dian  believes — when  the  nights  are  calm,  and  the  sky  serene, 
and  the  dew-drops  are  hanging  motionless  on  the  weeping 
birch  on  the  island,  and  the  country  is  vibrating  to  the 
murmur  of  the  cataract — that  then  the  misty  form  of  the 
young  mother  may  be  seen  moving  down  the  current,  while 
her  song  is  heard  mingling  its  sad  notes  with  the  lulling 
sound  of  "  the  Laughing  Water !" 

The  village  of  St.  Anthony  is  a  beautiful  site,  on  the 


ST.  CROIX    LAKE    AND    RIVER TOWNS.  117 

east  bank  of  the  river,  at  the  head  of  the  cataract  or  oppo 
site  to  it ;  and  is  a  flourishing  place,  and  must  become  a 
a  town  of  considerable  business ;  as  a  very  good  portion 
of  Minnesota,  for  farming  purposes,  lies  east  of  this  place 
and  St.  Pauls,  and  northeast  toward  Stillwater. 

Some  20  or  30  miles  below  the  Falls  of  St.  Anthony, 
the  river  St.  Croix  empties  into  the  Mississippi.  At  the 
junction  of  these  rivers  there  is  a  thriving  and  handsome 
little  town  growing  up,  called  Point  Douglass. 

This  river  also  expands  into  a  lake,  not  quite  as  wTide  or 
long  as  Lake  Pepin,  while  its  banks  are  not  as  high  and 
steep. 

Above,  midway  toward  the  head  of  this  lake,  on  the  east 
side,  in  Wisconsin,  at  the  mouth  of  Willow  river,  is  located 
the  promising  town  of  Buena  Vista.  Here  the  U.  S.  Gov 
ernment  have  opened  a  Land  Office. 

On  the  opposite  side  of  the  lake,  a  little  farther  up,  is 
the  thriving  town  of  Stillwater,  in  Minnesota.  Still  higher 
up,  is  the  village  of  St.  Croix,  with  some  other  lesser  ones. 
These  towns  are  all  growing  rapidly,  from  emigration. 

Steamers  from  Galena  generally  run  up  the  St.  Croix 
to  those  towns,  then  down  to  the  forks  again,  and  head  up 
the  river  for  St.  Pauls,  Fort  Snelling,  St.  Anthony's,  and 
Mendota ;  between  the  two  last  named  towns,  the  St.  Pe 
ter's,  from  the  west,  enters  the  Mississippi.  There  is  little 
settlement  up  this  river,  as  the  lands  are  still  mostly  in 
the  possession  of  Indians. 

"  But  we  must  turn  our  faces  southward,  for  the  Indian  Summer 
is  past — the  lagging  files  of  the  water-fowl  are  scudding  before  the 
wind,  and  another  week  may  curb  the  mighty  Mississippi  with  a 
bridle  of  ice.  Another  week,  in  fact,  did  so ;  but  ere  that,  paddle, 
current,  and  sail  had  carried  us  far  on  our  way  south,  as  you  may 
now  hear." 

On  the  evening  of  the  second  day  our  voyageurs  reached 
Lake  Pepin,  and  found  it  in  so  much  of  a  storm,  they 


118  WESTERN    PORTRAITURE. 

thought  it  best  to  lie  by  on  their  oars  awhile,  and  view  the 
scenery  about  Maiden's  Rock. 

' '  On  the  opposite  side  of  the  troubled  sheet  of  water  in  the  mid 
dle  ground,  over  which  the  rock  impended,  the  range  of  western 
bluffs  was  seen  to  incline  mland,  behind  the  Pointe  aux  Sables, 
leaving  a  wide  tract  of  country,  partly  forest  and  partly  prairie, 
between  their  foot  and  the  shore.  A  singularly  conical  and  prom 
inent  hill  rose  abruptly  from  the  middle  of  this  plain.  Around 
this  detached  eminence,  which,  swathed  as  it  was  in  the  smoke  of 
the  burning  prairies  beyond,  seemed  like  a  volcano  ;  the  fire  had 
been  concentrating  itself  during  the  earlier  hours  of  the  day,  now 
advancing  in  one  direction  till  checked  by  a  dense  tract  of  forest 
or  a  river,  and  then  rushing  on  in  another  one,  rolling  over  the 
summit  or  the  base  of  the  mountains.  At  sunset,  the  flame  seemed 
to  have  gathered  full  strength  and  to  have  reached  a  long  tract  of 
level  grassy  prairie  nearer  the  shore,  upon  which  it  then  swiftly 
advanced,  leaving  a  black  path  in  its  trail." 

An  interesting  Indian  legend  gives  name  to  "Maiden's 
Rock,"  in  Lake  Pepin.  It  is  a  craggy  peak  in  some  places, 
perpendicular  in  others,  and  many  portions  covered  with 
forest  trees.  There  is  one  high  perpendicular  precipice, 
from  which,  as  the  Indian  story  goes,  an  Indian  girl,  cross 
ed  in  love,  and  named  "  Dark  Day,"  took  the  leap,  Sappho- 
like,  which  alike  cures  love  and  ambition ;  and  in  the  same 
act  which  ended  her  days  she  perpetuated  her  memory — 
she  secured  an  everlasting  monument,  more  lofty  and  en 
during  than  the  Egyptian  pyramids  ;  Maiden's  Rock  lasts 
with  the  world. 

"The  following  morning  brought  no  cessation  of  the  gale;  and 
as,  from  our  place  of  retreat,  we  could  see  that  the  light  fresh 
waters  of  Lake  Pepin  were  running  and  boiling  like  a  miniature 
sea,  so  that  no  frail  bark  like  ours  could  live — we  unanimously  felt 
disposed  to  take  the  rest  and  leisure  thus  given,  and  remain  where 
we  were.  Nothing  could  suit  the  Crapauds  better.  It  was  one 
day  more  to  their  pay — the  provision-bag  and  the  whiskey-keg 
were  full — and  a  rare  day  they  made  of  it ! 

"The  summit  of  the  perpendicular  rock,  which  terminates  the 


LAKE  PEPIN BLACK  POINT.  119 

Cap  a  la  Fille,  rises  about  five  hundred  feet  over  the  lake,  and  the 
leap  may  be  •  nearly  one  third  of  the  whole  hight.  As  we  looked 
forth  from  the  summit  early  in  the  morning,  across  the  troubled  . 
surface  of  the  lake,  of  which  it  commands  a  wide  VICAV,  a  dense 
column  of  smoke  from  the  opposite  side  gave  us  intimation  that  the 
prairies  were  on  fire." 

One  peculiarity  of  this  lake  is,  that  it  has  no  islands,  but 
is  a  plain,  uninterrupted  sheet  of  water,  which  freezes  to  a 
great  thickness  in  the  winter ;  and  is  the  only  place  in  the 
Mississippi,  all  the  way  from  the  Falls  to  the  Gulf,  where 
we  may  not  at  all  times  see  islands  in  the  river.  Most  of 
the  shores  of  this  lake  are  high  precipitous  rocks,  yet  there 
are  a  few  instances  where  they  slope  gradually  to  the  water. 

The  lands  lying  about  Lake  Pepin,  in  their  general  ap 
pearance  and  adaptation  to  farming  purposes,  particularly 
that  of  Stock  raising  and  Dairy  business,  are  seldom  sur 
passed.  The  Indian  titles  will  no  doubt  soon  be  extin 
guished,  or  canceled,  and  the  Indians  removed ;  so  that  this 
beautiful  region  will  soon  be  brought  into  the  market  for 
sale,  and  undoubtedly  will  find  many  purchasers ;  though, 
it  is  more  likely  that  most  persons,  acquainted  with  the 
facts  and  locations,  will  see  better  inducements  to  buy  and 
settle  upon  the  large,  superior  tracts  of  lands  in  Illinois, 
Wisconsin,  and  Iowa,  which  are  coming  into  market  along 
the  many  lines  of  Railroads  that  are  being  rapidly  built  in 
those  states. 

"  The  close  of  another  short  day,  during  the  course  of  which 
we  glided  on  with  the  combined  force  of  paddle  and  current, 
through  the  most  picturesque  division  of  the  whole  river,  saw  us 
encamping  in  the  forest,  near  the  recent  battle  ground  at  the  mouth 
of  the  Bad  Axe  river,  within  thirty  miles  of  Prairie  du  Chien.  We 
had  landed  here  in  ascending,  and  seen  the  bones  of  the  poor  mis 
guided  Indians,  who,  driven  to  extremity,  perishing  with  famine, 
encumbered  with  their  wives  and  children,  hotly  pursued  by  both 
the  regular  troops  and  the  militia — here  tried  to  cover  the  retreat 
of  their  families  over  the  deep,  broad,  island-chequered  bosom  of 
the  Mississippi.  The  Warrior,  an  armed  steamboat,  which  had 


120  WESTERN   PORTRAITURE. 

been  sent  up  the  river  for  the  purpose,  opposed  the  passage,  and 
some  hundred  men,  women,  and  children  were  shot  down — some 
on  the  bank — some  in  the  marshes — others  in  the  act  of  swim 
ming  ;  and  we  saw  proof  enough  that  neither  age  nor  sex  had 
been  spared." 

"  The  sympathy  I  feel  for  the  poor  benighted  Indian,  the  child 
of  impulse  and  passion — cozened,  mystified,  driven  to  the  wall, 
and  degraded  far  below  his  natural  degradation,  by  his  communion 
with  those  who  call  themselves  Christians,  and  pride  themselves 
upon  superiority  of  gifts  and  advantages,  rises  above  the  horror 
excited  by  the  details  of  their  savage  cruelty,  when  their  wrath  is 
once  excited ;  and  makes  me  inclined  to  consider  them  as  the  ag 
grieved  party.  The  Winnebagoes,  true  to  the  character  of  treach 
ery  they  had  long  borne,  turned  their  knives  and  towahawks 
against  their  former  allies,  as  soon  as  they  saw  that  the  fortune  of 
the  unequal  war  was  against  them,  and  ranged  themselves  on  the 
side  of  the  whites.  After  the  Battle  of  the  Bad  Axe,  they  traced  the 
old  chief  Black  Hawk  to  his  retreat,  and  gave  him  and  his  sons  up 
to  the  Government.  It  is  hardly  necessary  to  repeat  that  the 
prisoners  were  kindly  treated ;  the  same  policy  which  led  the  Gov 
ernment  to  confine  the  chief  for  a  while,  led  it  afterward  to  bring 
him  to  the  great  cities  of  the  East — give  him  his  liberty,  with  his 
companions — and  send  him  back  to  his  humbled  tribe  loaded  with 
presents." 

"  Our  encampment  in  the  forests,  near  the  Bad  Axe,  on  the 
night  between  the  12th  and  13th  November,  was  rendered  remark 
able  by  one  circumstance. 

"  The  night  was  calm  ;  the  wind,  which  had  been  northerly  the 
foregoing  day,  chopped  about  early  in  the  morning  to  the  south, 
and  blew  with  some  force  with  a  clear  sky.  Early,  it  might  be 
between  two  and  three  o'clock,  the  whole  heavens  became  grad 
ually  covered  with/a//mg-  stars,  increasing  in  number  till  the  sky 
had  the  appearance  of  being  filled  with  luminous  flakes  of  snow. 
This  meteoric  rain  continued  to  pour  down  till  the  light  of  the 
coming  day  rendered  it  mvisible.  Millions  must  have  shone  and 
disappeared  during  the  course  of  these  three  or  four  hours.  They 
appeared  to  proceed  from  a  point  in  the  heavens,  about  fourteen 
degrees  to  the  southeast  of  the  zenith,  and  thence  fell  in  curved 
lines  to  every  point  of  the  compass.  Whether  they  remained  visi 
ble  down  to  the  horizon  or  not,  we  do  not  know.  There  were  some 
in  the  shower  of  larger  size  than  the  others,  but  for  the  greater 
part,  they  appeared  as  stars  of  the  first  or  second  magnitude. 


FALLING    STARS BOLIDES.  121 

Their  course  in  falling  was  interrupted,  like  the  luminous  flight  of 
the  fire  fly.  This  celestial  appearance  bore  precisely  the  charac 
ter  of  the  phenomenon  recorded,  as  having  been  witnessed  on  the 
12th  Nov.,  1799,  by  Humboldt  and  his  companions,  at  Cumana,  in 
South  America,  where  the  heavens  appeared  filled  with  these  bolides 
for  four  entire  hours  in  the  early  part  of  the  morning;  and  they 
were  subsequently  discovered  to  have  been  visible  simultaneously 
in  Labrador,  Greenland,  and  Germany — over  a  space  equal  to 
921,000  square  leagues.  Like  that,  the  extent  over  the  earth's 
surface,  on  which  the  meteoric  shower  which  I  am  more  particu 
larly  describing  was  observed,  was  extraordinarily  great.  At  the 
same  hour  that  it  was  visible  in  our  camp,  it  was  seen  in  equal 
splendor  throughout  the  whole  of  the  valley  of  the  Mississippi, 
in  all  the  Atlantic  cities,  in  Canada,  and  in  the  middle  of  the  At 
lantic  ;  how  far  farther  I  am  not  able  to  discover." 

This  phenomenon  was  noticed  by  the  Indians,  and  re 
garded  by  them  as  a  favorable  omen  in  regard  to  the 
winter's  hunt,  and  next  year's  crops ;  and  led  them  to  a 
sudden  and  devout  worship  of  the  Great  Spirit — to  be 
sure,  in  their  rude  way. 

**  Early  on  the  evening  of  this  day,  we  returned,  blithely  sing 
ing  our  Chanson  de  retour,  down  the  river,  to  the  little  village  of 
Prairie  du  Chien,  where  a  knot  of  wives,  daughters,  and  children, 
awaited  the  return  of  our  men ;  and  after  a  few  moments  spent  by 
them  in  the  ordinary  compliments,  kissing,  and  embraces,  we  were 
conducted  to  the  landing  of  the  Fort,  and  there  welcomed  as  old 
friends." 

Here  our  tourist  recites  some  grotesque  and  somewhat 
exciting  scenes  which  occurred  upon  paying  off  the  Cra- 
pauds — seizure  by  sheriffs — carousals — their  efforts  to  get 
employment  farther  down  the  river,  etc. 

"  Agreeable  as  we  found  our  position  in  the  society  and  at  the 
mess  of  the  officers  at  Fort  Crawford,  there  were  urgent  reasons 
why  we  should  continue  our  flight  to  the  southward.  Even  our 
hosts  could  not  but  advise  us  to  contrive  the  means  of  escape,  un 
less  we  made  up  our  minds  to  accept  their  offer  of  winter  quarters. 
There  were  however,  as  usual,  difficulties  in  the  way.  To  return 
by  land  to  St.  Louis  was  neither  according  to  our  wish,  nor  ad 
visable  ;  nor,  indeed,  did  it  appear  practicable." 
11 


122  WESTERN     PORTRAITURE. 

It  now  being  late  in  November,  and  a  dreary  time  of 
year,  always  among  the  Mississippi  and  Wisconsin  bluffs, 
though  cheering  and  romantic  enough  in  the  warm  season, 
our  voyageurs  were  in  a  puzzle  how  to  get  away,  when  a 
little  good  luck  fell  upon  their  lines : 

"  Just  in  this  moment,  most  unexpectedly  and  fortunately  for 
us,  a  number  of  barges  were  seen  emerging  from  the  deep  glen  of 
the  Ouisconsin,-and  tiirning  up  the  Mississippi  toward  the  Fort. 
They  were  found  to  contain  a  body  of  recruits  for  the  frontier 
posts  of  St.  Peter's  and  the  Prairie,  and  for  a  regiment  of  dragoons 
forming  near  St.  Louis.  They  had  made  their  way  thus  far  from 
the  Atlantic  States,  by  way  of  Detroit,  Lake  Huron,  Green  Bay, 
Fox  river,  and  over  the  portage  into  the  Ouisconsin. 

"  The  two  barges  containing  the  recruits  bound  to  St.  Louis 
were  in  command  of  a  young  officer,  who  promptly  made  us  an  offer 
to  join  company;  and  the  following  day,  the  17th  of  November, 
you  may  imagine  us  seated  round  a  pan  of  charcoal  in  the  stern  of 
one  of  the  boats,  and  pushing  away  from  the  hospitable  shore  of 
Prairie  du  Chien,  where  we  left  as  warm-hearted  a  set  of  fine 
young  fellows,  and  as  stanch  and  brave  an  old  Colonel  as  you 
would  wish  to  see. 

*'  The  very  night  after  we  quitted  the  Prairie,  the  Mississippi 
began  to  close,  and  remained  strongly  frozen  for  four  entire 
months ;  the  thermometer  at  the  Fort  ranging  to  25°  below  zero 
of  Fahrenheit ;  and  at  St.  Peter's,  the  mercury  continued  frozen 
for  three  days  consecutively." 

"  We  had  fortunately  however  got  the  start  of  the  winter,  dropped 
down  the  current  propelled  by  six  oars  in  each  barge ;  and,  when 
the  wind  served,  by  the  yet  more  powerful  aid  of  square  sails ; 
and  though  we  had  to  break  our  way  out  of  the  gathering  ice  for 
th  e  two  first  mornings,  yet  soon  after  passing  the  Mining  District, 
we  had  no  longer  to  complain  of  extreme  cold. 

<c  I  shall  not  go  largely  into  the  details  of  our  descent  of  six 
hundred  miles  to  St.  Louis,  which  it  took  us  nine  days  to  effect. 
Though  highly  entertaining  to  us,  it  would  be  monotonous  in  de 
scription.  The  shores  of  the  Mississippi  and  the  character  of  the 
channel  continued  to  lie  interesting,  without  having  an  equal  claim 
to  be  considered  as  romantic  as  the  upper  portion  of  the  river. 
Towns  there  were  none,  and  the  settlements  were  few  and  distant 
from  each  other,  till  we  got  within  a  hundred  miles  or  so  of  the 
mouth  of  the  Missouri. 


MINNESOTA THE    MISSISSIPPI.  123 

"  Our  encampments — for  we  still  spread  our  beds  every  night 
in  the  forests — continued  to  be  the  scenes  of  much  amusement  and 
enjoyment." 

I  have  already  given  a  pretty  full  portraiture  of  the 
country  along  the  Mississippi,  from  St.  Louis  to  Prairie  du 
Chien — that  region  where,  in  1833,  "towns  there  were 
none,  and  settlements  were  few .  and  distant  from  each 
other."  How  gratifying  is  the  contrast  of  the  present ; 
now,  in  1851,  some  eighteen  years  later,  we  see  towns  and 
cities,  of  from  two  to  eight,  and  even  twelve  thousand  pop 
ulation,  built  up  every  twenty  or  thirty  miles,  and  well 
sustained  in  wealth  and  progress  by  a  rich  and  thickly- 
settled  country,  of  well-cultivated  farms.  And  instead  of 
"  making  encampments,  and  spreading  beds  every  night  in 
the  forests,"  the  traveler  now  enjoys  a  comfortable  berth 
in  the  daily  steampacket;  or,  is  lodged  in  a  pleasant 
room  at  some  of  the  high  and  spacious  hotels,  found  in 
all  the  towns  and  cities  above  alluded  to,  along  the 
route. 

MINNESOTA  is  a  new  and  rapidly  improving  Territory, 
lying  north  of  Michigan,  Wisconsin,  and  Iowa,  on  both 
sides  of  the  Mississippi  river.  Its  winters  are  long,  with 
several  months  of  very  deep  snow,  but  during  the  growing 
season  vegetation  puts  forward  with  remarkable  rapidity 
and  luxuriance ;  so  that,  even  in  that  region,  considerable 
pleasant  and  profitable  agricultural  operations  are  carried 
on,  and  the  numbers  of  persons  engaged  in  that  pursuit  are 
briskly  increasing.  And  notwithstanding  its  northern  po 
sition  and  rigorous  climate,  emigration,  from  New  England, 
with  some  foreigners,  is  pouring  into  the  territory  in  such 
numbers,  that  it  must  soon  be  asking  for  a  place  in  the 
Union  as  a  State. 

It  in  fact  possesses  a  more  mild  and  favorable  climate 
and  surface  of  country  than  the  northern  portion  of  New 
England  and  New  York — the  spring  and  autumn  being 


124  WESTERN    PORTRAITURE. 

less  liable  to  destructive  frosts  there,  than  in  those  older 
northern  states. 

The  city  of  ST.  PAULS,  situated  on  the  Mississippi,  some 
eight  miles  below  the  Falls  of  St.  Anthony,  is  the  seat  of 
the  Territorial  Government. 

St.  Anthony's  Falls  were  discovered  by  Father  Henne- 
pin  as-early  as  1680 ;  and  the  same  region  was  visited  by 
other  explorers  very  soon  after.  Adventurers,  both  for 
discovery  and  trade  in  furs  with  the  Indians,  visited  the 
Minnesota  or  Dacota  country  early  in  the  seventeenth 
century,  and  planted  trading  posts  at  different  points.  La 
Hontan  visited  this  country  about  that  time,  beside  Mar- 
quette  and  De  Soto. 

In  1812,  Earl  Selkirk  commenced  a  Settlement  on  Red 
river,  near  the  mouth  of  Pembina  river,  several  hundred 
miles  northwest  of  St.  Pauls.  Some  years  afterward, 
another  post  or  town  was  established  further  down  (north 
ward)  the  river ;  but  since  that  time,  however,  the  upper 
settlement  has  mostly  moved  down  to  the  lower  one, 
where  there  is  a  flourishing,  happy  Colony  of  industrious, 
hardy,  peaceful  people. 

Until  the  past  year,  these  Falls  have  been  the  head  of 
steamboat  navigation  on  the  Mississippi ;  and  that  two 
boats  per  week,  now  running  between  here  and  the  south 
ern  country,  should  have  profitable  employment,  is  evi 
dence  that  a  large  amount  of  business  is  there  carried  on, 
and  considerable  emigration  moving  into  this  new  northern 
country.  But,  during  the  past  year,  one  or  two  steam 
boats  have  been  built  above  the  Falls,  to  run  in  the  river 
for  some  hundreds  of  miles  still  farther  up,  establishing  & 
new  era  in  the  navigation  of  the  "  Father  of  Waters." 

At  this  point  is  where  the  Selkirk  Settlement  do  their 
business  on  the  river,  in  their  annual  pilgrimages,  to  dis 
pose  of  their  peltry  and  other  articles,  for  such  merchan 
dise  as  they  may  desire.  I  have  seen  several  companies 


CARVER  TRACT FOUNTAIN  CAVE.         125 

of  these  isolated  and  romantic  people,  and  found  them 
stout,  hardy,  liberal,  and  intelligent  persons,  indicating 
good  health  and  ability  to  endure  toil  and  hardships. 

Among  the  most  singular  or  attractive  curiosities  in 
Minnesota,  beside  the  great  Falls,  are  the  caves,  or  subter 
ranean  lakes  and  creeks.  Carver's  Cave  is  one  of  some 
note ;  but  it  can  rarely  ever  be  explored,  as  the  entrance  to 
it  is  constantly  changing  and  being  obstructed  by  sliding 
rocks  and  earth,  which  frequently  fill  up  the  orifice,  so  that 
there  is  no  access  for  several  days,  till  the  little  stream 
issuing  from  it  bursts  out  again,  leaving  a  passage,  some 
times,  through  which  a  man  can  enter  and  explore,  though 
it  is  a  hazardous  experiment,  not  often  attempted;  yet, 
within  the  cave  there  is  a  beautiful  crystal  lake,  with 
shining  rock  walls  and  inclosures. 

The  most  remarkable  and  best  known  of  these  Grottos 
is  a  few  miles  farther  up  the  Mississippi,  and  described  as 
follows,  by  Mr.  Seymour,  who  explored  it ;  and  has  pre 
sented  it  in  a  clearer  manner  than  I  can  pretend  to  do : 

"  On  Monday,  in  company  with  several  gentlemen,  who  lately 
arrived  in  the  Territory,  I  set  out  to  explore  Fountain  Cave, 
which  is  found  near  the  bank  of  the  Mississippi,  two  or  three  miles 
above  St.  Pauls. 

"  The  entrance  of  the  cave  is  at  the  bottom  of  a  circular  bluF 
which,  curving  around  in  front  of  the  opening,  forms  a  basin  '  ^ 
recess,  about  forty  feet  deep,  and  as  many  feet  in  diameter.  De 
scending  into  this  basin,  we  soon  found  ourselves  in  a  spacious 
room,  about  150  feet  long  and  20  wide ;  arched  overhead  and  form 
ing  at  the  entrance  a  regular  arched  gateway,  about  25  feet  in 
width  and  20  feet  high.  This  room,  however,  may  more  properly 
be  divided  into  two ;  the  division  being  made  by  a  curvilinear  pro 
jection  of  one  side  of  the  cave,  the  front  room  being  about  25 
feet  wide  and  20  feet  high,  and  nearly  100  feet  long;  the  other  one 
varying  in  hight  from  twelve  in  front  to  eight  feet  in  the  rear, 
arched,  like  the  front  room,  overhead,  and  decreasing  in  width  at 
the  farther  end.  The  floor  is  a  horizontal  plane  of  sandstone. 
Along  its  center  glides  a  pretty  rivulet  of  transparent  water,  which 
is  heard  flowing  through  the  next  room  in  gentle  ripples  ;  and  far 


126  WESTERN    PORTRAITURE. 

in  the  interior,  out  of  sight,  is  heard  the  sound  of  a  rumbling 
cascade. 

"  The  whole  interior  of  this  cave  is  composed  of  pure  white  sand 
stone,  resembling  loaf  sugar,  which  is  readily  cut  with  a  knife. 
This  cave  is  probably  produced  by  the  action  of  the  water,  which 
has  broken  through  the  upper  strata  of  limestone  and  worn  a  pas 
sage  through  this  sandstone ;  which  constantly  crumbles  off,  and 
is  carried  away  by  the  current. 

"  Having  quenched  our  thirst  from  the  limpid  rivulet,  and  ex 
amined  many  of  the  names  carved  by  visitors  on  the  walls  of  the 
cave,  we  lighted  our  candles,  and  advanced  to  explore  the  interior. 
After  reaching  the  farther  end  of  the  second  room,  the  roof  became 
so  low  that  we  were  obliged  to  stoop  and  proceed  partly  on  our 
hands  a  short  distance,  until  we  entered  another  room  of  an  ellip 
tical  form,  with  an  arched  ceiling,  and  about  forty  feet  long,  twenty 
feet  wide,  and  twelve  feet  high.  Here  the  rivulet  has  a  fall  of 
about  two  feet  perpendicular,  into  a  small  basin  which  occupies  the 
center  of  the  room.  Beyond  this  room  the  ceiling  is  so  low  that 
we  were  obliged  to  proceed  on  our  hands  and  knees.  The  water 
had  worn  a  channel  in  the  rock  several  feet  deep,  leaving  a  narrow 
shelf  on  each  side  for  one  to  crawl  upon,  or  the  channel  of  water, 
six  inches  to  four  feet  deep,  for  one  to  wade  in.  Slipping  into  the 
water  accidentally,  I  was  obliged  to  adopt  the  latter  alternative, 
although  the  extreme  coldness  of  the  water  rendered  it  rather  un 
comfortable. 

"  Before  reaching  this  point  my  companions  had  all  given  out 
and  were  returning,  so  that  I  was  obliged  to  proceed  alone.  I 
continued  to  wade  until  I  reached  another  low  room,  about  twenty 
feet  wide,  where  I  could  hear  another  waterfall ;  the  water  grew 
deeper  as  I  advanced  to  the  upper  end  of  this  room — my  candle 
was  becoming  quite  short — my  companions  were  beyond  the  reach 
of  my  voice — my  person  was  pretty  well  drenched  with  water — 
and  prudence  seemed  to  dictate  that  I  should  retire,  without  de 
termining  whether  I  had  reached  the  extremity  of  the  cave.  I 
had  proceeded,  as  near  as  I  could  estimate  distance  in  such  a  tor 
tuous  and  laborious  passage,  about  sixty  rods.  By  constructing  a 
narrow  promenade  of  plank  above  the  water,  in  the  passage  be 
tween  the  second  and  third  room,  an  easy  communication  to  Cas 
cade  Parlor  might  be  made  for  visitors." 

"  On  ascending  the  high  land  near  the  cave  we  found  a  large 
number  of  snakes  that  had  been  killed  at  different  times  ;  I  counted 
twenty  in  one  heap,  and  ten  more  scattered  along  the  path,  within 


CAVES CARVER  TRACT ST.  PAULS.        127 

a  few  rods ;  there  were  two  species,  the  bull  snake,  and  striped 
green  snake,  both  said  to  be  harmless.  Some  might  infer  from  this 
that  the  cave  would  be  a  resort  for  snakes ;  biit  no  snakes  will  be 
found  there ;  the  walls,  floor,  and  ceiling,  is  constituted  of  solid 
rock,  as  white  and  neat  as  a  lady's  parlor ;  with  no  soil  or  crevice 
for  harboring  this  reptile.  It  is  said  there  are  no  rattlesnakes  in 
this  country ;  there  is  a,  snake  called  the  blow  snake,  whose 
breath  is  said  to  be  poisonous  ;  but  it  is  probably  rare,  as  I  could 
not  find  any  person  who  had  ever  seen  one." 

"  A  short  distance  below  the  cave  there  is  a  little  creek  that 
leaps  over  a  succession  of  cascades,  making  in  all  a  fall  of  eighty 
feet,  and,  if  flowing  at  the  same  rate  during  the  season,  forming 
an  excellent  water-power." 

Much  speculation  has  been,  and  still  is  carried  on,  in, 
our  country,  with  the  Carver  lands.,  located  in  what  is 
called  the  "  Carver  Tract,"  by  the  heirs  and  pretended 
representatives  of  Captain  JONATHAN  CARVER,  who  claimed 
that  the  Indians  made  him  an  immense  grant  of  land,  on 
the  Mississippi,  in  return  for  friendships  and  services  he 
had  rendered  them.  But  Congress  has  never,  to  my 
knowledge,  confirmed  or  recognized  this  title  or  claim, 
though  it  has  often  been  brought  before  them.  The  tract 
claimed  under  this  pretended  grant  lay  south  of  St.  An 
thony's  Falls,  and  east  of  the  Mississippi,  one  hundred 
miles  each  way,  mostly  in  Minnesota,  and  embracing  St. 
P&uls  and  the  surrounding  country.  Captain  Carver  was 
a  native  of  Connecticut. 

At  St.  Pauls,  the  capital  of  the  Territory,  there  are 
three  newspapers  published :  "  The  Minnesota  Pioneer" 
democratic,  by  Col.  Goodhue ;  "  The  Minnesota  Gazette" 
whig ;  and  the  name  of  the  third  I  have  forgotten.  Some 
efforts  are  being  made  to  have  the  Electric  Telegraph  ex 
tended  to  that  enterprising  Territory,  to  connect  with  the 
Chicago  -and  St.  Louis  lines,  through  Galena,  Dubuque, 
and  Milwaukee ;  as  commercial  business  is  rapidly  increas 
ing  to  the  north,  and  this  speedy  means  of  intelligence  is 
needed  in  that  region. 


128  WESTERN     PORTRAITURE. 

Having  thus  glanced  at  things  in  Minnesota,  we  will  re 
turn,  agreeably  to  promise,  and  make  a  survey  of  the  in 
terior  of  those  states,  which  constitute  the  principal  sub 
jects  of  this  volume,  and  describe  them  by  counties ;  and 
starting  from  where  we  left  our  Minnesota  voyagers,  Prai 
rie  du  Chien,  we  will  make  a  tour  of  observation,  through 
Wisconsin,  of  such  counties  and  towns  as  have  not  before 
been  described.  Still,  with  all  that  is  harsh  about  it,  and 
perilous,  there  is  a  grandeur  and  a  charm  about  the  Missis 
sippi,  that  always  causes  one  regrets  at  leaving  it,  with  a 
desire  soon  to  return  to  its  banks,  islands,  and  scenery. 


WISCONSIN- 


1 


FROM  the  best  authorities,  it  appears 
that  the  earliest  visits  of  white  men  to 
the  territory  that  now  forms  the  State 
of  WISCONSIN,  was  in  1654,  made  by 
some  French  Traders,  from  Montreal 
to  Lake  Superior.  The  first  white  set- 
-—  ~  tlement  was  made  in  1665,  by  Claude 
Allouez  and  others,  at  Lapointe,  on  an  island  of  the  same 
name,  in  the  western  end  of  that  lake ;  and  a  few  years 
before  the  establishment  of  the  settlement  at  Puans 
(Green)  Bay.  According  to  the  authorities  quoted  by 
Bancroft,  Schoolcraft,  and  others,  those  settlements  were 
made  in  1665  and  1669 ;  and  in  1673,  Father  J.  Mar- 
quette,  accompanied  by  Joliet,  went  up  the  Nenah  (Fox) 
river,  passed  the  short  portage  of  a  mile  or  two  into  the 
Wisconsin  river,  then  descended  it  to  the  Mississippi, 
which  they  reached  in  June  of  that  year.  The  Legislature 
have  named  one  of  the  counties,  near  that  portage,  after 
that  adventurer,  one  of  the  first,  Marquette,  who  ever  saw 
that  mighty  stream. 

In  1679,  La  Salle  made  a  voyage  up  the  lakes,  in  the 
first  vessel  ever  built  above  Niagara  Falls ;  he  called  it 
the  Griffon  ;  and  he  has  claimed  to  be  the  first  white  man 
who  ever  saw  the  Mississippi ;  but  this  is  disputed,  as 
Bancroft  declares  that  H.  De  Soto  was  the  first  European 


130  WESTERN    PORTRAITURE. 

that  discovered  the  "  Father  of  Waters,"  and  crossed  it  in 
1541.  The  Griffon  is  said  to  have  been  a  plain,  substan 
tial  little  schooner,  of  some  sixty  tons  burden,  and  carry 
ing  five  small  guns.  On  the  7th  of  August,  1679,  she 
sailed  from  Niagara  with  thirty-four  men,  bound  for  the 
western  lakes,  and  reached  Mackinaw  the  last  of  the 
month ;  on  the  2d  of  September  she  sailed  again  for 
Green  Bay.  At  that  port  she  was  laden  with  peltries  ; 
and  on  the  18th  of  the  same  month,  La  Salle  put  her  in 
charge  of  the  pilot  and  five  men,  and  sent  her  back  again ; 
but  they  never  reached  their  destination,  vessel  and  crew 
having  perished,  which  was  a  severe  loss  to  La  Salle,  as 
the  vessel  and  cargo  had  cost  him  about  60,000  livres. 
Still,  he  and  his  comrades  continued  their  voyage  up  the 
coast  of  Lake  Michigan  in  canoes  to  the  mouth  of  Chicago 
river,  where  they  erected  a  fort ;  and  shortly  afterward 
Father  Hennepin,  with  others,  passed  from  that  river  into 
the  O'Plain,  then  the  Illinois,  and  down  that  river  to  the 
Mississippi. 

Wisconsin  constituted  a  portion  of  New  France,  under 
French  authority,  till  1763,  when  it  was  surrendered  to 
Great  Britain.  In  1783,  a  settlement  was  began  at  Prai 
rie  du  Chien,  by  Giard,  Autaya,  and  Dubuque,  near  the 
site  of  the  earlier  French  settlement.  In  1819  Governor 
Cass  explored  the  northern  country ;  during  which  year 
the  garrisons  of  Prairie  du  Chien  and  St.  Peter's  were  es 
tablished.  In  1823  Major  Long  explored  the  same  region ; 
and  in  1832  an  expedition  under  Schoolcraft  passed  through 
the  country.  In  1836  it  was  organized  under  a  Territorial 
government,  with  the  title  of  Wisconsin  Territory. 

This  was  a  territory,  under  one  authority  or  another, 
from  1787  to  1847,  when  it  became  an  independent  state 
of  the  Union,  making  the  twenty-ninth  star  in  that  galaxy 
of  political  existences,  whose  light  is  seen  throughout 
Christendom,  and  whose  influence  is  felt  wherever  the 


BOUNDARIES    OF   WISCONSIN.  131 

breezes  have  carried  paper  and  powder.  In  fertility  of 
soil,  comfort  of  climate,  and  all  other  natural  facilities  of 
successful  agricultural  operations,  Wisconsin  is  scarcely 
behind  any  of  her  sister  states ;  and  perhaps  is  surpassed 
by  none  in  the  rapidity  with  which  her  population  has  in 
creased  during  the  last  eight  or  ten  years,  and  their  intel 
ligence.  In  1840  the  population  was  something  over  30,- 
000  ;  in  1845  it  was  about  five  times  that,  say  115,000  ; 
and  in  1850  the  census  shows  it  to  be  305,528. 

I  take  the  following  boundary  of  this  state  from  Darby's 
Gazetteer,  of  1845  : 

"WISCONSIN,  Territory  of  the  U.  S.,  if  taken  in  extenso,  is 
bounded  on  the  N.  by  the  British  territories ;  by  Mississippi  river, 
W.  ;  Illinois,  S.  ;  and  by  Lake  Michigan,  the  northwestern  part  of 
the  State  of  Michigan,  and  Lake  Superior,  E.  In  latitude  it  ex 
tends  from  42°  30'  to  49°  0'  N.,  and  in  longitude  from  10°  0"  to  18° 
30'  W.  of  Washington.  Measured  by  the  rhombs,  the  area  comes 
out  so  near  that  we  may  assume  80,000  square  miles.  This  region 
comprises  the  northwestern  part  of  the  original  U.  S.  domain  by 
the  treaty  of  1783.  From  SE.  to  NW.,  by  a  diagonal  line,  the  length 
falls  but  little  short  of  600  miles.  The  breadth  is  about  160  miles. 

"  That  portion  of  Wisconsin,  organized  and  subdivided  into  coun 
ties  is  bounded  E.  by  Lake  Michigan;  NW.  by  Green  Baj,  Fox, 
and  Wisconsin  rivers ;  W. ,  or  rather  SW.,  by  Mississippi  river ;  and 
S.  by  the  State  of  Illinois.  In  latitude  it  extends  ftom  42°  30V  to 
45o  20',  and  in  longitude  from  10°  0'  to  14°  5'  W.  of  Washington. 
From  the  SW.  angle,  on  Mississippi  river,  to  the  NE.  point  between 
Green  Bay  and  Lake  Michigan,  the  length  is  280  miles.  The 
breadth  varies  from  near  100  to  a  mere  point ;  area  about  11,500 
square  miles.  The  face  of  the  country  is  rather  waving  than 
either  hilly  or  flat,  though  both  extremes  exist.  It  is  a  territory 
in  a  remarkable  manner  supplied  with  navigable  streams.  Fox 
river,  flowing  into  Green  Bay,  and  Wisconsin.,  into  Mississippi 
river,  approach  each  other  so  near  as  to  leave  but  a  short  portage 
between  their  channels.  The  higher  branches  of  Rock  river  rise 
in  Wisconsin,  and  flow  into  the  State  of  Illinois. 

"  It  has  a  coast  of  about  200  miles  on  Lake  Michigan,  over  which 
flow  some  small  streams,  but  the  shallowness  of  the  water  of  the 
lake  precludes  any  harbor  admitting  vessels  of  more  than  very 


132  WESTERN    PORTRAITURE. 

moderate  draught.     The  rivers  afford  much  more  extensive  navi 
gable  facilities  than  does  the  lake. 

"  The  town  of  MADISON,  on  what  is  called  the  Four  Lakes,  is  the 
capital  of  the  Territory.  This  town  is  situated  at  N.  latitude  43e 
5',  and  longitude  12°  12'  W.  of  Washington,  and  almost  directly  S. 
of  the  portage  between  Wisconsin  and  Fox  rivers ;  distance  about 
40  miles,  and  about  140  miles  a  little  N.  of  NW.  from  Chicago."  . 

MOUNDS  AND  EARTHWORKS. — In  various  portions  of  the 
Western  States,  ancient  mounds,  embankments,  and  forti 
fications  are  found,  which  show  them  clearly  to  have  been 
the  work  of  a  people  inhabiting  here  long  before  the  dis 
covery,  by  Columbus,  of  this  continent. 

By  what  character  of  people,  or  for  what  purpose,  the 
mounds  were  made,  are  inexplicable  points,  about  which 
as  yet,  no  history  that  we  possess  can  enlighten  us  satis 
factorily. 

In  Wisconsin,  at  the  town  of  AZTALAN,  the  most  sin 
gular  and  remarkable,  as  well  as  the  most  perfect  of  these 
earthworks,  have  been  found.  In  April  last  I  visited  them. 
They  form  embankments  of  four  to  six  feet  high,  inclosing 
fields  of  from  ten  to  forty  acres ;  with  conical  mounds 
varying  in  size  and  hight,  from  ten  to  twenty  high,  and 
thirty  and  fifty  feet  diameter  at  the  base — some  inside  and 
others  outsMe  of  the  inclosures.  They  are  located  near  a 
small  river,  on  u  smooth  bank  sloping  gradually  toward 
the  water.  I  ran  around  on  the  embankments  examining 
and  measuring  them  ;  on  the  top  they  were  wide  enough 
to  admit  the  driving  of  a  buggy,  which  is  frequently  done. 
On  several  of  them,  and  around,  a  thin  red  haze  filled  the 
air,  through  which  the  bluffs  loomed  at  a  distance,  and  the 
Mounds  appeared  dilated  to  a  far  greater  size  than  they 
possessed. 

If  the  reader  have  read  any  works  ori  America,  he  will 
have  been  made  attentive  to  these  extensive  remains — the 
sole  antiquities  of  this  part  of  the  world — as,  ever  since 


ANCIENT    MOUNDS.  133 

their  existence  has  become  generally  known,  with  the  fact, 
that  the  Indian  tribes  of  our  day,  apparently  declining  in 
number  at  the  very  time  of  the  discovery  of  the  continent, 
were  themselves  seated  on  a  soil  whose  ancient  monu 
ments  attested  its  prior  possession  by  a  more  numerous 
and  more  civilized  race,  they  became  a  favorite  theme  for 
the  speculation  of  the  theorist  and  the  traveler.  It  is 
probable  that  some  were  built  as  tombs,  others  as  watch- 
towers,  or  for  defense,  and  perhaps  the  larger  class  as  rude 
temples.  Most  of  those  tumili  which  have,  been  opened 
have  been  found  to  contain  human  bones,  coarse  pottery, 
rude  weapons,  or  ornaments.  But  none  of  the  larger  have 
hitherto  undergone  scrutiny. 

There  is  an  artificial  Mound  situated  forty  miles  west 
of  CHICAGO,  which  measures  four  hundred  and  fifty  yards 
in  length,  by  seventy-five  in  breadth,  and  sixty  feet  in 
perpendicular  hight.  Its  form  is  elliptical,  with  a  flat  top. 
Also,  at  Joliet,  on  the  Canal,  is  a  similar  one. 

From  Mr.  LAPHAM'S  work  I  take  the  following  : 

"  The  village  of  Aztalan  is  situated  on  the  west  bank  of  the 
Crawfish  river,  on  the  United  States  road  leading  from  Milwaukee 
to  the  Mississippi,  by  way  of  Madison — distant  from  Milwaukee 
about  fifty  miles,  and  from  Madison  thirty.  It  is  very  prettily 
situated,  on  the  sloping  bank  of  the  river,  immediately  above  the 
'  ancient  city'  from  which  it  derives  its  name. 

"  This  ancient  artificial  earthwork,  consists  of  an  oblong  inclo- 
sure,  about  five  hundred  and  fifty  yards  in  length,  and  two  hun 
dred  and  seventy-five  yards  in  breadth,  lying  along  the  bank  of 
the  river.  The  walls  are  twenty-three  feet  wide  at  the  base,  and 
four  or  five  feet  high,  having  (except  on  the  river  side)  an  exterior 
semicircular  enlargement,  or  buttress,  and  a  corresponding  in 
terior  recess  every  twenty-seven  yards.  In  some  parts  of  the 
wall,  and  especially  in  the  buttresses,  the  earth  of  which  it  is  com 
posed  appears  to  have  been  mixed  with  straw,  and  burned  in  such 
manner  as  to  resemble  slightly  burned  brick.  There  is  no  evi 
dence  that  this  substance  was  ever  moulded  into  regular  form. 
Within  this  inclosure  are  several  remarkable  mounds  and  exca 
vations." 

12 


134  WESTERN    PORTRAITURE. 

In  many  places  very  large  oak  trees  are  found  growing 
on  them,  proving  their  great  age. 

From  different  works  on  the  subject,  I  have  given  sev 
eral  extracts,  descriptive  and  speculative,  upon  them. 
From  the  supposed  resemblance  of  some  of  the  discov 
eries  at  this  place  to  the  antiquities  of  the  Aztecs,  in 
Mexico,  did  the  town  receive  its  name  of  Aztalan ;  and 
certainly  there  are  some  things  curious  and  worthy  of 
note  there. 

Something  of  the  Climate  and  winters  of  Wisconsin  may 
be  judged  by  the  following  statement  of  the  clearing  and 
opening  of  the  harbor,  at  Milwaukee,  for  some  ten  years 
past.  The  freezing  up  of  the  harbor,  during  that  time,  va 
ried  from  as  early  as  November  15,  to  as  late  as  the  1st  of 
December. 

In  the  spring  it  has  opened,  some  years,  as  early  as  the 
first  week  in  March,  and  at  others  not  till  as  late  as  about 
the  middle  of  April. 

The  township  organization  system  prevails  throughout 
most  of  Wisconsin,  very  similar  to  that  in  the  State  of 
New  York  ;  most  of  the  counties  have  adopted  the  system. 

No  argument  is  needed  to  show  Monied  Men  that  the 
West  is  a  more  advantageous  place  to  loan  their  funds  than 
the  East — that  money  can  be  let  at  higher  interest  and 
oftener  turned,  and  always  in  active  demand  on  safe  securi 
ties  ;  for  this  is  all  very  well  known,  and  is  so  generally 
remarked,  that  it  has  grown  into  a  proverb.  It  is  because 
there  is  much  land  and  little  money  in  the  West — the 
country  being  new,  filled  up  with  recent  settlers,  who  are 
nearly  all  engaged  in  making  improvements,  which,  as  yet, 
yield  but  small  revenue  ;  and  real  estate  rising  more  rap 
idly,  and  money  scarcer,  proportionately,  than  at  the  East ; 
the  latter  being  in  greater  demand,  until  larger  crops  are 
ready  for  market.  So  that  those  having  surplus  funds, 
whether  to  invest  in  improvements,  or  to  loan,  will  readily 


ADVANTAGES    OF   THE    WEST.  135 

see  that  it  is  to  their  interest  to  locate  in  the  West,  for 
the  highest  profitable  operations. 

In  Central  and  Western  New  York  real  estate  increased 
in  value  more  rapidly — after  the  opening  of  the  Erie  Canal 
and  some  of  the  railroads,  bringing  the  products  with  speed 
and  cheapness  to  market — in  proportion,  than  it  did  at  the 
East.  In  like  manner,  and  for  the  same  reasons,  will  prop 
erty  be  enhanced  in  value  in  the  states  West  of  the  Lakes, 
above  those  on  the  Atlantic ;  so  ample  now  are  the  means 
of  communication  between  the  seaboard  and  the  frontier 
country. 

In  conversation,  a  short  time  since,  with  an  extensive 
grain  and  flour  dealer,  of  a  western  state,  my  attention 
was  called  more  forcibly  to  the  contrast  between  the  time 
occupied  a  few  years  ago  and  that  required  at  the  present 
day  to  take  a  barrel  of  flour  from  Wisconsin  or  Illinois, 
and  return  the  necessary  merchandise.  Then,  two  to  four 
weeks  were  occupied,  each  way  ;  now,  it  only  takes  some 
six  to  ten  days ;  and  soon,  when  the  whole  line  of  rail 
roads  now  commenced  shall  be  completed,  only  two  or 
three  days  will  be  consumed  in  the  passage  between  New 
York  and  Chicago  or  Milwaukee.  And  what  is  better,  de 
cided  cheapness,  too,  is  attained  in  this  rapid  transit.  But 
that  is  not.all,  nor  even  the  greatest,  advantage  resulting 
to  the  western  settler  by  this  speedy  transportation ;  his 
chief  benefit  gained  by  it,  is  the  increased  price  secured  to 
him  for  his  products — a  price  approximating  very  close  to 
the  prices  of  New  York  and  Philadelphia. 

All  who  know  any  thing  about  it,  understand  very  well 
that  the  prices  at  the  West  depend  altogether  upon  the 
Eastern  market ;  and  the  longer  the  time  which  transpires 
between  the  sale  and  the  date  at  which  the  articles  reach 
that  market,  the  wider  must  be  the  margin  and  fluctuations 
in  the  prices,  and  greater  must  be  the  hazards  and  contin 
gencies,  all  of  which  the  purchasers  are  bound  to  take  into 


136  WESTERN    PORTRAITURE. 

the  account  when  buying  the  western  commodities ;  as 
prices  at  the  time  of  his  buying  are  liable  to  fall,  at  the 
East,  before  those  products  reach  their  destination.  But 
when  the  transit  is  quicker — reduced  to  two  or  three  days 
— these  chances  of  decline  in  prices,  all  the  risks  much  di 
minished,  and  the  insurance  less,  so  that  the  produce  spec 
ulator  can  very  safely  venture  to  pay  prices  much  nearer 
the  full  eastern  value. 

Under  these  circumstances,  western  lands  must  be  great 
ly  enhanced  in  actual  value ;  increased  in  a  ratio  decidedly 
greater  than  the  eastern  lands,  when  taking  into  the  account 
the  respective  prices  at  which  both  are  now  held,  the  for 
mer  realizing  nearly  as  high  profits  as  the  latter,  while  the 
cost  of  producing  is  vastly  in  favor  of  the  western  farmer 
— which  proves  the  wisdom  of  investing  in  and  improving 
western  real  estate,  while  it  may  be  obtained  for  low 
prices ;  as  the  astonishing  progress  making  in  transit  facil 
ities  is  constantly  hastening  the  time  of  an  equilibrium  in 
land  value  East  and  West.  And  when  we  consider  the 
wonderful  productiveness  and  easy  tillage  of  western  soils, 
even  at  the  same  cost  per  acre,  the  profit  of  the  capital  in 
vested  is  nearly  or  quite  as  great  in  the  one  location  as 
the  other.  As  I  have  elsewhere  said,  a  reference  to  the 
state  of  things  in  Eastern  and  Western  New  York,  incident 
upon  the  opening  of  market  facilities  through  the  internal 
improvements  of  that  state,  is  a  palpable  corroboration  of 
the  position  here  taken.  But  my  object  is  simply  to  state 
facts  and  brief  suggestions,  while  the  wise  and  shrewd  will 
enlarge  and  practice  upon  them. 

These  remarks,  in  relation  to  the  agricultural  capacities 
of  the  West,  are  superfluous  to  those  who  have  been  there 
and  examined  them ;  but  it  is  not  for  such — it  is  for  those 
east  and  south,  who  have  never  visited  the  Prairie  country 
— that  I  am  giving  this  plain  description,  that  they  may 
have  some  idea,  some  appreciation  of  them  j  enough,  at 


LAND    MONOPOLY SHEEP    RAISING.  137 

least,  to  induce  them  to  go  and  look  for  themselves  at 
these  vast  natural  Gardens  of  the  West.  In  some  loca 
tions  there  is  one  serious  drawback,  at  present,  to  the  full 
est  growth  and  prosperity  of  the  West;  but  still,  it  is 
limited  to  particular  sections  and  routes;  I  allude  to  land 
monopoly  by  non-cultivators.  Mr.  Greeley,  in  his  travels 
through  the  West,  a  few  years  since,  observed  these  things 
and  -commented  upon  them : 

"  I  have  found,  not  only  the  best  dispositions  of  prairie  and  tim 
ber,  but  also  the  most  tasteful  improvements  on  the  cross  roads 
and  by  ways,  quite  aside  from  the  three  or  four  great  roads,  lead 
ing  in  different  directions  from  Chicago,  which  are  mainly  traveled. 
These  routes  are  largely  cursed  -with  the  blight  of  land  speculation 
and  non-resident  ownership." 

This  is  true  in  most  parts  of  the  New  States ;  along  the 
great  and  early  thoroughfares  large  portions  of  the  public 
lands  were  bought  up  by  non-residents  solely  for  speculation, 
as  it  was  believed  many  emigrants  would  buy  those  lands 
and  pay  a  high  price,  rather  than  settle  farther  away  from 
general  communication,  even  at  a  lower  price ;  and  such 
has  been  the  case  in  some  instances,  but  not  universally 
so  ;  for,  as  is  stated  above,  many  settled  away  on  the 
cross  and  intermediate  tracts  ;  and  there  is  where  you  will 
see  many  of  the  best  farms,  and  much  of  the  finest  im 
provements  in  several  respects ;  and  particularly  so,  in 
those  instances  where  a  company  of  farmers  and  mechan 
ics  have  gone  in  and  settled  down  together,  creating  at 
once  a  pleasant  neighborhood. 

To  those  who  may  prefer  to  engage  in  the  raising  of 
sheep,  the  West  offers  no  less  favorable  openings  than  to 
the  grain  grower ;  as  experiment  has  satisfactorily  demon 
strated  that  sheep  can  be  successfully  reared  in  Wiscon 
sin  and  Illinois,  of  as  vigorous  growth  and  valuable  clip 
as  in  states  east  of  the  lakes.  The  writer  of  this,  while 
traveling  in  the  West,  has  examined  numbers  of  flocks, 
7 


138  WESTERN    PORTRAITURE. 

containing  from  one  to  five  thousand,  which  would  com 
pare  favorably  in  size,  health,  and  fleece,  with  most  that 
he  has  seen  in  the  older  states.  The  natural  pasturage  is 
peculiarly  agreeable  to  them,  and  is  abundant,  where  they 
can  range  prosperingly,  among  the  swells  and  slope's  of 
the  rolling  prairies,  reasonable  care  being  required  to  keep 
them  warm  and  well  fed  during  the  short  winters ;  and  in 
some  sections  there  is  occasional  trouble  from  small  prai 
rie  wolves,  yet  nothing  but  what  may  be  easily  guarded 
against  by  cheap  yards  for  night-time ;  even  in  many  in 
stances  a  good  dog,  with  slight  training,  is  an  effectual 
protection,  as  the  wolves  always  avoid  them,  or  flee  at 
their  approach. 

It  is  frequent  and  exciting  fun  and  amusement  to  many 
Western  people  to  chase  these  animals  on  horseback,  over 
the  vast  prairies,  for  which  purpose  they  carry  pistols  and 
lances.  The  horses  very  soon  learn  to  understand  and 
enjoy  the  sport,  and  even  get  so  well  initiated  as  to  volun 
tarily  stamp  upon,  or  jump  after  them  as  they  overtake 
them  bounding  through  the  grass. 

For  raising  Horses  and  Cattle,  the  country  lying  be 
tween  Lake  Michigan  and  the  Mississippi,  and  much  of 
that  beyond,  is  unsurpassed  by  any  in  the  whole  range  of 
the  "  Old  Thirteen."  The  grass  and  hay,  from  our  bound 
less  prairies,  exceeds  in  luxuriance  and  succulent  qualities 
that  procured  from  the  choicest  meadows  of  the  Genesee, 
Connecticut,  or  Susquehanna  rivers.  And  when  plowed 
under,  they  will  surpass  in  product  of  corn,  potatoes,  bar 
ley,  oats,  and  strawberries,  if  not  wheat,  those  "  Old 
Flats." 

And  to  those  who  have  children  to  rear  and  educate, 
the  West  presents  transcendent  facilities.  There  is  wide, 
beautiful  space  for  vigorous  exercise,  with  abundance  of 
fresh  air  and  healthful  breezes,  all  peculiarly  favorable  to 
the  full,  strong  development  of  physical  nature,  which  is 


EDUCATION COLLEGES.  139 

of  paramount  importance  to  growing  youth — vastly  more 
essential  to  primary  years  than  mere  book  instruction, 
though  seemingly  not  generally  so  regarded  by  parents ; 
and  these  advantages  are  enjoyed  in  moral  locations,  apart, 
too,  from  the  corrupting,  hollow,  and  noisy  influences,  so 
prevalent  in  large  cities  and  dense  communities,  which 
with  many  is  too  slightly  considered. 

The  advantages  of  healthy  physical  development,  under 
general  moral  influence,  is  of  vastly  more  consequence  to 
the  earlier  years  of  youthful  education,  than  is  the  simple 
proficiency  in  book  erudition;  and  a  proper  regard  to 
these  things  is  always  well  attended  to  by  the  wise; 
though,  with  no  disposition  to  underrate  the  worth  of  a 
high  standard  of  scientific  and  literary  education,  nor  with 
less  care  in  seeking  such  privileges  for  youth,  as  they  begin 
to  strengthen  and  advance  to  riper  years;  but  they  do 
look  to  moral  and  physical  education  as  deserving  of  the 
first  special  attention ;  and  in  these  respects  the  bright, 
fresh  regions  of  the  New  States — the  prairie  country — are 
pre-eminently  favored  ;  but  they  are  not,  thereby,  desti 
tute  of  the  advantages  of  liberal  education ;  for  still,  the 
West  is  not  far  behind  in  the  matter  of  good  sehooJs  and 
seminaries  of  learning;  the  primary  schools  and  semina 
ries  are  found  to  be  of  the  first  order,  both  in  the  compe 
tency  of  teachers  and  the  comfort  of  buildings  ;  this  is  the 
case  in  most  of  the  settled  sections,  though  it  is  to  be  re 
gretted  there  are  some  exceptions. 

And  where  it  is  needed — where  advanced  years  have 
more  matured  the  child's  mind — and  when  menial  tuition 
becomes  the  first  and  leading  object,  with  parents,  who 
wish  the  educational  efforts  of  their  children  directed  to 
the  acquisition  of  higher  branches  of  knowledge,  they  will 
find  in  all  of  these  States,  Colleges  well  endowed,  under 
1  the  control  of  accomplished  and  competent  professors, 
with  spacious  and  convenient  buildings,  occupying  pleasant 


140  WESTERN    PORTRAITURE. 

and  healthful  locations ;  and  in  all  essentials  holding  a  fa 
vorable  comparison  with  similar  institutions  East. 

Another  important  fact  exists  in  favor  of  Western  in 
stitutions  ;  that  of  economy,  or  pecuniary  saving  ;  as  the 
desired  tuition  can  here  be  obtained  at  considerable  less 
expense  than  at  the  East.  In  fact,  Eastern  men,  of  such 
limited  means  that  they  can  ill  afford  to  give  their  children 
a  liberal  education  there,  may  remove  West,  locate  in  the 
vicinity  of  some  college,  and  there,  by  judicious  manage 
ment,  be  really  able  to  educate  them  handsomely. 

Thus,  we  see  that  in  the  West,  we  clearly  possess  three 
decided  advantages  for  educating  families ;  namely,  moral 
security,  reduced  expense,  and  better  physical  develop 
ment  ;  and  certainly  these  things  are  worth  reflecting  upon 
by  those  interested ;  and  I  give  the  facts,  to  be  entertained 
as  they  see  fit — to  be  appreciated  and  appropriated  when 
wisdom  and  utility  shall  direct.  Thus,  for  less  toil  a  com 
petence  is  acquired,  and  for  less  money  an  education  is 
obtained.  Nothing  is  truer  than  the  following  remarks  of 
a  foreigner : 

"  You  may  see  men  of  learning  and  superior  minds  in  Europe 
toiling  week  after  week,  and  year  after  year,  merely  to  procure 
for  themselves  and  families  the  bare  food,  clothing,  and  shelter 
they  need  ;  which,  in  tire  new  world  [America]  is  obtained  with 
but  seemingly  little  exertion." 

These  remarks  will  hold  equally  as  true,  and  the  con 
trast  is  full  as  striking,  in  regard  to  the  old  and  new  states 
of  our  country.  Thousands  struggle  on  through  life,  in 
the  older  states,  for  barely  the  means  of  existence  from 
year  to  year ;  when,  by  removing  westward,  and  expend 
ing  the  same  efforts  there,  it  would  procure  for  them  an 
easy  competence,  often  a  fortune. 

But  in  many  cases  the  circumstances  under  which  great 
numbers  of  honest,  faithful  men  have  to  labor,  are  such* 
that  it  is  next  to  impossible  for  them  to  lay  up  enough  of 


GOVERNMENT   LANDS KOSSUTH.  141 

their  earnings  to  remove  their  families  westward,  buy 
land,  and  commence  improvements,  or  procure  the  means 
of  living  till  their  improvements  will  yield  them  the  ne 
cessaries  of  life.  This  is  particularly  true  with  hundreds 
of  worthy  mechanics  in  large  cities.  In  such  cases,  it 
would  be  wise,  good  policy,  nay,  it  is  the  duty  of  Con 
gress,  to  grant  them  80  or  160  acres  of  land,  free  of  price, 
if  they  will  settle  on  and  improve  it ;  their  little  money 
would  then  enable  them  to  do  this  comfortably,  as  they 
have  not  first  to  pay  it  all  out  for  their  land,  with  nothing 
left  to  help  themselves.  Government  can  make  no  better 
investment  than  to  give  the  wild  lands  to  absolute  culti 
vators. 

The  proposition  of  our  Federal  Government  to  grant  to 
the  patriot  KOSSUTH,  and  his  compatriots,  a  colony,  a  tract 
of  land,  without  pay,  on  which  to  settle,  is  creditable  to 
it.  They  have  selected  it  in  Iowa,  and  call  the  place  New 
Buda. 

It  lies  in  a  beautiful  region  of  country,  in  Decatur 
county,  south  of  Iowa  river,  and  toward  the  Des  Moines. 
The  land  was  selected  by  Governor  UJHAZY.  Whether 
Kossuth  will  still  struggle  on,  or  settle  down  in  a 
colony  with  his  fellow  refugees,  is  not  yet  known. 

Our  Government  would  also  do  just  and  wisely  for  its 
own  interests,  to  give  to  every  needy,  industrious,  and 
orderly  man — native  or  foreigner — land  enough  for  a  com 
fortable  home,  who  would  occupy  and  cultivate  it ;  eighty 
acres  is  enough ;  that  amount,  well  cultivated,  would  give 
any  prudent  family  a  comfortable  living,  and  yearly  add  a 
small  sum  to  the  surplus  in  their  coffers.  Still,  let  it  be  a 
larger  amount,  if  it  prove  best.  We  have  domain,  lying 
useless  and  waste,  enough  to  supply  all  who  would  ask  for 
such  farms,  for  many  generations ;  and  as  all  must  die, 
the  first  would  give  place  to  their  successors,  so  that  the 
population  should  not  become  so  dense,  on  the  whole 


142  WESTERN    PORTRAITURE. 

earth,  that  there  should  no  longer  be  space  left.  Has  not 
the  Almighty  spread  out  the  bright,  fertile  earth  for  man's 
occupancy,  and  not  to  lie  untenanted  and  fruitless1?  If 
this  be  not  the  case,  why  has  civilization,  nay,  apparent 
destiny,  been  allowed  to  drive  off,  to  almost  extinguish, 
the  aboriginal  races,  from  the  rich,  boundless  tracts  which 
they  for  centuries  occupied,  but  left  uncultivated ;  simply 
ranging  over  them  for  game  and  wild  fruits. 

The  first  and  highest  wealth  of  a  nation,  and  its  surest 
protection,  is  an  industrious,  independent  agricultural  pop 
ulation  ;  and  the  next  is  an  ingenious,  prosperous  artizan 
community,  working  hand  in  hand,  harmoniously,  with  the 
former ;  and  they  together  soon  add  a  third  branch  of  na 
tional  wealth ;  that  is,  good  roads  and  extensive  thorough 
fares. 

In  all  of  these  states  and  territories,  described  in  this 
book,  there  are  large  quantities  of  public  lands  that  now, 
and  probably  for  a  long  time  will,  lie  waste  and  useless, 
which  would  soon  be  occupied  by  industrious  yeomen,  who 
wrould  speedily  cause  them  to  produce  with  profitable  lux 
uriance,  if  the  Government  would  throw  them  open  to  the 
free  possession  of  such  persons. 

The  fine  towns  that  are  built  up  at  the  river  mouths, 
and  the  huge  steamers  and  sail- vessels  which  daily  enter 
them,  prove  how  greatly  mistaken  the  early  travelers  and 
writers  were,  many  times,  in  regard  to  the  depth  of  water 
or  harbor  facilities  along  the  lakes ;  as  in  the  case  above 
quoted  from  Darby.  True,  in  some  instances,  dredging  at 
the  mouth  of  rivers  has  been  of  great  benefit,  by  removing 
portions  of  bars,  which  had  collected  by  the  wash  into  the 
channels.  I  take  the  following  from  LAPHAM'S  History  of 
Wisconsin : 

"  The  Territory  of  Wisconsin,  as  established  at  present,  is 
bounded  as  follows  :  Commencing  in  the  middle  of  Lake  Michigan, 
in  north  latitude  forty-two  degrees  and  thirty  minutes;  thence 


^  r 

CFTHC 

UNIVERSITY 

OF 

-  LIMITS  -  GROWTH.  143 


north  along  the  middle  of  the  lake,  to  a  point  opposite  the  main 
channel  or  entrance  of  Green  Bay  ;  thence  through  said  channel 
and  Green  Bay  to  the  mouth  of  the  Menomonee  river;  thence 
through  the  middle  of  the  main  channel  of  said  river  to  that  head 
nearest  the  Lake  of  the  Desert;  thence  in  a  direct  line  to  the  mid 
dle  of  said  lake  ;  thence  to  the  source  of  the  Montreal  river  ;  thence 
through  the  middle  of  the  main  channel  of  that  river  to  its  mouth; 
thence  with  a  direct  line  across  Lake  Superior  to  where  the  Terri 
torial  line  of  the  United  States  last  touches  said  lake  northwest  ; 
thence  along  said  Territorial  line  to  a  point  due  north  of  the  head 
waters  or  source  of  the  Mississippi  river,  in  longitude  ninety  de 
grees  and  two  minutes  west  from  Greenwich  ;  thence  due  south  to 
the  Mississippi  ;  thence  along  the  middle  or  center  of  the  main  chan 
nel  of  said  river  to  latitude  forty-two  degrees  and  thirty  minutes 
north  ;  thence  due  east  to  the  place  of  beginning. 

'  '  It  therefore  embraces  all  that  portion  of  the  United  States  lying 
between  the  State  of  Michigan  on  the  east,  and  the  Mississippi  on 
the  west,  which  separates  it  from  the  (now)  State  of  Iowa  ;  and  be 
tween  the  State  of  Illinois  on  the  south  and  the  British  possessions 
on  the  north  ;  extending  from  forty-two  and  a  half  to  the  forty- 
ninth  degree  of  north  latitude,  and  embracing  about  ten  degrees  of 
longitude." 

Of  the  general  growth  and  face  of  the  country,  I  also 
quote  from  the  same  work  the  following  general  and  scien 
tific  description  : 

*'  Many  parts  of  the  country  are  but  thinly  peopled,  and  little 
communication  exists  between  them  and  other  settlements,  so  that 
it  is  difficult  to  ascertain  what  are  their  extent,  population,  and 
improvements.  New  settlements  are  commenced  almost  every  day, 
and  soon  grow  into  important  places,  without  any  notice  being  taken 
of  them  by  the  public.  Towns  and  villages  spring  up  so  rapidly 
that  one  has  to  '  keep  a  sharp  look  out'  to  be  informed  even  of  their 
names  and  location,  to  say  nothing  about  their  population,  trade, 
and  buildings.  The  building  of  a  town  has,  in  a  great  degree, 
ceased  to  be  a  matter  of  much  interest  —  as  much  so  as  an  earth 
quake  formerly  did  in  some  parts  of  Missouri. 

"  The  Indians  have,  by  various  treaties,  ceded  to  the  United 
States  all  their  lands  in  Wisconsin,  except  a  portion  lying  between 
the  west  end  of  Lake  Superior  and  the  head  waters  of  the  Missis 
sippi.  This,  therefore,  is  all  that  now  remains  in  possession  of  the 
original  owners  —  the  Indians." 


144  WESTERN   PORTRAITURE. 

To  this  statement  should  be  excepted  the  Settlement  of 
the  Brothertown  Indians,  who  have  a  prosperous  town  on 
the  east  side  of  Lake  Winnebago,  where  they  have  become 
civilized  and  Christianized ;  they  live  and  do  business  like 
the  whites,  and  have  a  Representative  in  the  State  Legis 
lature.  The  Oneida  Settlement,  too,  west  of  Green  Bay, 
is  somewhat  advanced  in  civilization,  but  more  inclined  to 
their  native  habits  than  the  others. 

Although,  in  none  of  these  States  are  there  any  moun 
tains  ;  still  Wisconsin,  probably,  presents  higher  eminences 
than  either  of  the  others. 

"There  are  no  mountains,  properly  speaking,  in  Wisconsin; 
the  whole  being  one  vast  plain,  varied  only  by  the  river  hills,  and 
the  gentle  swells  or  undulations  of  country  usually  denominated 
rolling.  This  plain  lies  at  an  elevation  of  from  six  hundred  to 
fifteen  hundred  feet  above  the  level  of  the  ocean.  The  highest  lands 
are  those  forming  the  dividing  ridge  between  the  waters  of  Lake 
Superior  and  the  Mississippi.  From  this  ridge  there  is  a  gradual 
descent  toward  the  south  and  southwest.  This  inclination  is  inter 
rupted  in  the  region  of  the  lower  Wisconsin  and  Neenah  rivers, 
where  we  find  another  ridge  extending  across  the  Territory,  from 
which  proceeds  another  gently  descending  slope,  drained  mostly  by 
the  waters  of  Rock  river  and  its  branches.  These  slopes  indicate, 
and  are  occasioned  by,  the  dip  or  inclination  of  the  rocky  strata 
beneath  the  soil. 

"  The  Wisconsin  hills  and  many  of  the  bluffs  along  the  Missis 
sippi  river  often  attain  the  hight  of  three  hundred  feet  above  their 
base;  and  the  Blue  Mound  was  ascertained  by  Dr.  LOCKE,  by 
barometrical  observations,  to  be  one  thousand  feet  above  the  Wis 
consin  river  at  Helena.  The  surface  is  farther  diversified  by  the 
Platte  and  Sinsinawa  Mounds ;  but  these  prominent  elevations  are 
so  rare  that  they  form  very  marked  objects  in  the  landscape,  and 
serve  the  traveler,  in  the  unsettled  portions  of  the  country,  as 
guides  by  which  to  direct  their  course.  The  country  immediately 
bordering  on  Lake  Superior  has  a  very  abrupt  descent  toward  the 
lake ;  hence  the  streams  entering  that  lake  are  full  of  rapids  and 
waterfalls,  being  comparatively  worthless  for  all  purposes  of  navi 
gation,  but  affording  a  vast  superabundance  of  water-power,  which 
may  at  some  future  time  be  brought  into  requisition  to  manufacture 


FACE    OF    THE    COUNTRY.  145 

lumber  from  the  immense  quantities  of  pine  trees  with  which  this 
part  of  the  Territory  abounds. 

"There  is  another  ridge  of  broken  land  running  from  the  en 
trance  of  Green  Bay  in  a  southwesterly  direction,  forming  the 
divide  between  the  waters  of  Lake  Michigan  and  those  running 
into  the  Bay  and  Neenah,  and  continuing  thence  through  the  west 
ern  part  of  Washington  county,  crossing  Bark  river  near  the 
Nagowicka  lake,  and  thence  passing  in  the  same  general  direction, 
through  Wai  worth  county,  into  the  State  of  Illinois.  The  irregular 
and  broken  appearance  of  this  ridge  is  probably  owing  to  the  soft 
and  easily  decomposed  limestone  rock  of  which  it  is  composed. 
'  "  On  our  northern  border  is  Lake  Superior,  the  largest  body  of 
fresh  water  in  the  world,  and  on  the  east  is  Lake  Michigan,  second 
only  to  Lake  Superior  in  magnitude,  forming  links  in  the  great 
chain  of  inland  seas  by  which  we  are  connected  with  the  lower 
country  by  a  navigation  as  important  for  all  purposes  of  commerce 
as  the  ocean  itself.  Beside  these  immense  lakes,  Wisconsin  abounds 
in  those  of  smaller  size,  scattered  profusely  over  her  whole  surface. 
They  are  from  one  to  twenty  or  thirty  miles  in  extent  Many  of 
them  are  the  most  beautiful  that  can  be  imagined — the  water  deep 
and  of  crystal  clearness  and  purity,  surrounded  by  sloping  hills 
and  promontories  covered  with  scattered  groves  and  clumps  of 
trees.  Some  are  of  a  more  picturesque  kind,  being  more  rugged  in 
their  appearance,  with  steep,  rocky  bluffs,  crowned  with  cedar, 
hemlock,  spruce,  and  other  evergreen  trees  of  a  similar  character. 

•"•  Perhaps  a  small  rocky  island  will  vary  the  scene,  covered  with  a 
conical  mass  of  vegetation,  the  low  shrubs  and  bushes  being  ar 
ranged  around  the  margin,  and  the  tall  trees  in  the  center.  These 
lakes  usually  abound  in  fish  of  various  kinds,  affording  food  for 
the  pioneer  settler ;  and  among  the  pebbles  on  their  shores  may 
occasionally  be  found  fine  specimens  of  agate,  carnelian,  and  other 
precious  stones. 

"  In  the  bays  where  the  water  is  shallow  and  but  little  affected 
by  the  winds  the  wild  rice  (Zizania  aquatica)  grows  in  abun 
dance,  affording  subsistence  for  the  Indian,  and  attracting  innu 
merable  water  birds  to  these  lakes.  The  rice  has  never  been  made 
use  of  by  the  settlers  in  Wisconsin  as  an  article  of  food,  although 
at  some  places  it  affords  one  of  the  principal  means  of  support  for 
the  red  men.  It  is  said  to  be  about  equal  to  oatmeal  in  its  quali 
ties,  and  resembles  it  in  some  degree  in  taste.  The  difficulty  of 
collecting  it,  and  its  inferior  quality,  will  always  prevent  its  use 
by  white  men,  except  in  cases  of  extreme  necessity." 
13 


146  WESTERN    PORTRAITURE. 

Mr.  Lapham  here  occupies  a  page  in  giving  a  somewhat 
minute  description  of  the  Upper  Mississippi,  Lake  of  the 
Woods,  Rainy  lake,  etc.,  wThich  is  not  material,  as  I  have 
elsewhere  given  all  on  that  point  which  is  deemed  essen 
tial  to  the  objects  of  this  work. 

Adventurers,  or  lovers  and  seekers  of  romance,  will 
find  very  much  to  gratify  them,  by  exploring  that  region, 
which  they  will  find  handsomely  portrayed  in  the  writings 
of  various  travelers  to  that  direction. 

In  regard  to  the  indications  of  an  ancient  people  having 
occupied  this  section  of  country,  I  copy  still  from  the  same 
work  : 

"  The  rivers  running  into  the  Mississippi  take  their  rise  in  the 
vicinity  of  the  sources  of  those  running  into  the  lakes,  and  they 
often  originate  in  the  same  lake  or  swamp,  so  that  the  communica 
tion  from  the  Mississippi  to  the  lakes  is  rendered  comparatively 
easy  at  various  points.  The  greatest  depression  in  the  dividing 
ridge  in  the  Territory  is  supposed  to  be  at  Fort  Winnebago,  where 
the  Wisconsin  river  approaches  within  half  a  mile  of  the  Neenah, 
and  where,  at  times  of  high  water,  canoes  have  actually  passed 
across  from  one  stream  to  the  other.  Some  of  the  rivers  are  sup 
plied  from  the  tamarack  swamps,  from  which  the  water  takes  a 
dark  color. 

"  Wisconsin  does  not  fall  behind  the  other  portions  of  the  west 
ern  country  in  the  monuments,  or  Mounds,  it  affords  of  the  exist 
ence  of  an  ancient  people  who  once  inhabited  North  America,  but 
of  whom  nothing  is  known  except  what  can  be  gathered  from  some 
of  the  results  of  their  labors.  The  works  at  Aztalan,  in  Jefferson 
county,  are  most  known  and  visited,  but  there  are  many  other  lo 
calities  which  are  said  to  equal  them  in  interest  and  importance. 
The  substance  called  brick  at  this  place,  is  evidently  burned  clay, 
showing  marks  of  having  been  mixed  with  straw,  but  they  were 
not  moulded  into  regular  forms. 

"  There  is  a  class  of  ancient  earthworks  in  Wisconsin,  not 
before  found  in  any  other  country,  being  made  to  represent 
quadrupeds,  birds,  reptiles,  and  even  the  human  form.  These  rep 
resentations  are  rather  rude,  and  it  is  often  difficult  to  decide  for 
what  species  of  animal  they  are  intended  ;  but  the  effects  of  time 
may  have  modified  their  appearance  very  much  since  they  were  orig- 


ANIMAL   EARTHWORKS.  147 

inally  formed.  Some  have  a  resemblance  to  the  buffalo,  the  eagle, 
or  crane,  or  to  the  turtle  or  lizard.  One  representing  the  human 
form,  near  the  Blue  Mounds,  is,  according  to  R.  C.  Taylor,  Esq., 
one  hundred  and  twenty  feet  in  length  ;  it  lies  in  an  east  and  west 
direction,  the  head  toAvard  the  west,  with  the  arms  and  legs  ex 
tended.  The  body  or  trunk  is  thirty  feet  in  breadth,  the  head 
twenty-five,  and  its  elevation  above  the  general  surface  of  the 
prairie  is  about  six  feet.  Its  conformation  is  so  distinct  that  there 
can  be  no  possibility  of  mistake  in  assigning  it  to  the  human 
figure.  A  mound  at  Prairieville,  representing  a  turtle,  is  about 
five  feet  high  ;  the  body  is  fifty-six  feet  in  length ;  it  represents  the 
animal  with  its  legs  extended,  and  its  feet  turned  backward.  It 
is  to  be  regretted  that  this  interesting  mound  is  now  nearly  de 
stroyed.  The  ancient  works  are  found  in  all  parts  of  the  Territory, 
but  are  most  abundant  at  Aztalan,  on  Crawfish  river,  near  the 
Blue  Mounds,  along  the  Wisconsin,  the  Neenah,  and  the  Pishtaka 
rivers,  and  near  Lake  Winnebago. 

"  The  reader  is  referred  to  the  '  Notice  of  Indian  Mounds,  etc., 
in  Wisconsin,'  in  Silliman's  Journal,' vol.  34,  p.  88,  by  R.  C.  Tay 
lor;  and  to  the  '  Description  of  Ancient  Remains  in  Wisconsin,'  by 
S.  Taylor,  vol.  44,  p.  21,  of  the  same  work. 

"  The  mounds  are  generally  scattered  about  without  any  appar 
ent  order  or  arrangement,  but  are  occasionally  arranged  in  irreg 
ular  rows,  the  animals  appearing  as  if  drawn  up  in  a  line  of  march. 
An  instance  of  this  kind  is  seen  near  the  road  seven  miles  east 
from  the  Blue  Mounds,  in  Iowa  county.  At  one  place  near  the 
Four  Lakes  (Dane  County),  it  is  said  that  one  hundred  tumuli,  of 
various  shapes  and  dimensions,  may  be  counted — those  represent 
ing  animals  being  among  others  that  are  round  or  oblong. 

"  Fragments  of  ancient  pottery  of  a  very  rude  kind  are  often 
found  in  various  localities.  They  were  formed  by  hand,  or  mould 
ed,  as  their  appearance  shows  evidently  that  these  vessels  were 
not  turned  on  a  potter's  wheel.  Parts  of  the  rim  of  vessels,  usually 
ornamented  with  small  notches  or  figures,  are  most  abundant. 

"  A  mound  is  said  to  have  been  discovered  near  Cassville,  on 
the  Mississippi,  which  is  supposed  to  represent  an  animal  having 
a  trunk  like  the  elephant,  or  the  now  extinct  mastodon.  Should 
this  prove  true,  it  will  show  that  the  people  who  made  these  ani 
mal  earthworks,  were  cotemporaries  with  that  huge  monster, 
whose  bones  are  still  occasionally  found ;  or  that  they  had  then 
but  recently  emigrated  from  Asia,  and  had  not  lost  their  knowl 
edge  of  the  elephant." 


148  WESTERN     PORTRAITURE. 

There  is  scarcely  a  county  in  Wisconsin,  Northern  Illi 
nois,  and  some  portions  of  Iowa,  where  the  traveler  will 
not  meet  some  of  these  curious  formations ;  and  though 
by  whom  or  for  whatever  purpose  they  were  made,  is 
questionable,  there  can  be  no  doubt  that  they  are  artificial 
works,  and  constructed  under  the  suggestions  of  human 
designs. 

Extensive  improvements  have  taken  place  in  Wisconsin, 
since  Mr.  Lapham  published  his  book,  and  the  population 
has  more  than  doubled  in  that  time ;  towns  of  but  hun 
dreds  have  increased  to  thousands  of  inhabitants ;  canals 
have  been  dug,  railroads  laid  down,  mills  and  factories 
erected,  and  steamboats  put  afloat  on  some  of  the  small 
interior  lakes ;  all  of  which,  with  the  wide  improvement 
of  farms,  roads,  schoolhouses,  churches,  begin  already  to 
give  this  new  state  in  many  parts  much  the  appearance  of 
older  ones. 

Kunning  along  up  the  Wisconsin  river,  lying  on  its 
north  bank,  are  the  counties  of  Crawford,  population  2,400 ; 
it  is  more  fully  described  in  another  place ;  Rich/land,  pop 
ulation  1,000,  watered  by  Pine  river,  with  RICHMOND,  on 
the  Wisconsin,  for  its  county-seat ;  Sank,  population  4,400, 
watered  by  Baraboo  river,  with  PRAIRIE  DU  SAC,  on  the 
Wisconsin,  for  its  county-seat;  Portage,  population  1,300, 
watered  by  the  Wisconsin  and  some  smaller  streams, 
with  PLOVER  PORTAGE  for  its  county-seat.  Still  north  of 
these,  are  other  counties,  not  judicially  organized,  in  the 
Pinery,  with  but  a  sparse  population,  and  but  little  known 
except  for  their  rich  lumber  resources. 

Lying  along  the  Wisconsin,  on  its  south  bank,  are  the 
counties  of  Grant,  Iowa,  Dane,  and  Columbia.  They 
are  more  minutely  described  in  another  part  of  this 
work. 

At  the  line  of  Columbia  and  Portage  counties,  an  elbow 


CHARACTER  OF  THE  NORTHERN  REGION.      149 

is  formed  in  the  river,  so  that  from  here,  its  direction  to 
the  source  in  the  Great  Pinery  is  nearly  north. 

The  first  tier  of  counties  north  of  the  river  here  named, 
are  very  good  farming  counties,  containing  much  good 
prairie  and  other  land,  with  some  fine  timber,  embracing 
valuable  pineries  among  the  rest ;  but  farther  north  still, 
with  the  exception  of  one  or  two  counties,  much  cannot 
be  said  in  favor  of  the  country  as  an  agricultural  one. 

Still,  for  its  splendid  pine  forests  and  grand  water- 
powers,  it  will  always  be  held  in  high  estimation,  and  at 
tract  a  portion  of  emigration  thitherward.  What  Mr. 
Lapham  says  of  the  north  part  of  Brown  county  will  ap 
ply  generally  to  much  of  the  northern  part  of  the  State, 
with  some  exceptions,  where  are  fine  prairies  : 

"  Little  is  known  of  the  geographical  details  of  the  northern 
part  of  this  county;  it  abounds  in  forests  of  pine,  said  the  streams 
are  full  of  falls  and  rapids,  affording  an  abundance  of  water- 
power,  where  this  pine  is,  in  large  quantities,  manufactured  into 
lumber  and  shingles,  which  find  a  ready  market  at  ports  on  Lake 
Michigan  and  other  places.  The  soil  is  said  to  be  of  excellent 
quality,  and  is  covered  with  dense  forests — no  openings  or  prairies 
being  found  of  any  considerable  extent. 

"  A  singular  feature  in  the  topography  of  the  country  is  indi 
cated  by  the  course  of  the  principal  streams,  which  have  a  gen 
eral  southeasterly  direction  toward  Lake  Michigan,  except  the 
Neenah,  which,  with  Green  Bay  (an  enlarged  continuation  of  it), 
runs  at  right  angles  to  this  course,  and  nearly  parallel  with  the 
general  course  of  the  lake.  The  cause  of  this  feature  may  be 
found  in  a  rocky  ridge  extending  along  the  east  side  of  the  Neenah, 
giving  direction  to  that  river,  and  '  heading'  all  those  that  take 
their  rise  west  of  it.  This  ridge  extends  southwest  quite  through 
the  Territory,  and  from  it  originates  another  system  of  streams 
running  east  or  southeast  into  Lake  Michigan." 

This  description  will  hold  in  regard  to  what  was  orig 
inally  Brown  county,  when  it  extended  to  the  northern 
bounds  of  the  State ;  and  not  to  its  present  limits,  which 
embraces  a  fine  county  : 


150  WESTERN    PORTRAITURE. 

"  The  Wisconsin  river  is  one  of  the  most  important  in  the  Ter 
ritory,  especially  the  lower  portion,  between  the  portage  and  the 
Mississippi,  a  distance  of  one  hundred  and  fourteen  miles,  by  the 
course  of  the  river.  At  the  portage,  it  is  four  hundred  yards 
wide,  and  it  gradually  increases  in  width  to  the  mouth,  where  it 
is  six  hundred  yards  wide.  In  Richland  county,  it  has  a  width 
of  about  four  hundred  and  fifty  yards.  This  portion  of  the  river 
is  bordered  by  high  sandstone  bluffs,  from  one  hundred  and  fifty 
to  two  hundred  feet  in  hight — constituting  a  scenery  of  great 
beauty  and  even  grandeur.  The  water  is  shallow,  and  there  are 
numerous  islands  and  shifting  sand-bars.  The  current  is  usually 
quite  rapid.  Hence  the  navigation  of  the  Wisconsin  is  rather  dif 
ficult  and  uncertain ;  but  steamboats,  such  as  usually  run  on  the 
Upper  Mississippi,  have  ascended  to  the  portage.  When  the  chan 
nel  is  better  known  to  the  pilots,  it  may,  however,  be  navigated 
in  ordinary  stages  of  the  water,  without  much  difficulty. 

"  The  Upper  Wisconsin  lies  principally  in  Portage  county,  with 
its  numerous  rapids  and  portages,  affording  water-power  of  great 
extent,  which  is  used  at  many  places  to  manufacture  pine  lumber. 
Large  quantities  of  lumber  are  annually  sent  down  this  river,  and 
the  Mississippi,  as  far  as  St.  Louis.  The  pineries  commence  about 
eighty  miles  above  Fort  AVinnebago  ;  and  here  a  railroad  has  been 
constructed  (the  first  in  Wisconsin)  of  two  miles  in  length,  to  con 
vey  logs  from  the  forest  to  the  mills.  At  the  Dells,  the  river  .runs 
for  eight  miles  between  perpendicular  cliffs  of  rock  about  three 
hundred  feet  high,  and  only  forty  across. 

"  The  scenery  here  is  grand  and  picturesque,  resembling  the 
gorge  below  the  Falls  of  Niagara,  and  probably  produced  by  the 
same  cause.  A  small  steamboat  passed  through  the  Dells,  in 
1845,  being  the  first  attempt  to  navigate  the  Upper  Wisconsin. 
Near  the  Dells  is  the  place  where  Black  Hawk  and  the  Prophet 
were  taken  (after  their  defeat  at  the  battle  of  the  Bad  Jlxe)  by 
Dekorra  and  Chactar,  two  AVinnebago  Indians,  who  had  been  em 
ployed  for  that  purpose  by  the  Indian  agent  at  Prairie  du  Chien." 

Those  counties  which  lie  on  the  south  side,  next  to  the 
Wisconsin  river,  are  among  the  very  best  in  the  State. 
The  first  is  Grant  county.  There  is  no  county  in  all  the 
West  that  has  a  better  soil  for  raising  wheat  than  this ;  it 
possesses  more  of  the  appearance  and  peculiarities  of  the 
New  York  wheat-growing  lands,  in  Cayuga  county,  and  the 


GRANT    COUNTY ITS    TOWNS.  151 

Genesee  country,  than  any  county  I  have  seen  in  this  re 
gion.  It  occupies  the  southwest  corner  of  Wisconsin, 
bounded  on  the  north  by  the  Wisconsin  river,  and  on  the 
southwest  by  the  Mississippi.  Its  extreme  length,  from 
north  to  south,  is  forty-eight  miles,  and  from  east  to  west, 
thirty-seven  miles  ;  its  mean  breadth,  however,  is  only 
twenty-four  miles.  It  has  a  river  coast  along  the  Wis 
consin  and  Mississippi  of  nearly  one  hundred  miles.  The 
soil  in  both  timber  and  prairie  land  is  very  rich  and  fer 
tile,  yielding  all  the  usual  crops,  found  at -the  East,  in 
similar  latitudes,  and  with  comparatively  little  effort 
to  the  farmer.  Population,  16,169  ;  dwellings,  2,861  ; 
farms,  707  ;  manufactories,  78. 

CASSVILLE  is  situated  on  the  Mississippi  river.  It  was 
commenced  as  early  as  1835,  but  very  little  permanent 
improvement  was  made.  The  scenery  about  here  is  very 
beautiful.  Population,  two  to  three  hundred. 

POTOSI  is  considered  by  many  one  of  the  most  import 
ant  places  on  the  Mississippi  in  the  mineral  country,  and 
destined  ere  long  to  be  the  shipping  point  for  much  of  the 
lead  trade  that  finds  its  way  down  that  river.  Population 
about  2,000. 

The  Potosi  Republican  is  one  of  the  best  country  papers 
in  the  State. 

From  Dubuque  the  "  O'Rielly  Telegraph  line"  crosses 
the  Mississippi,  and  passes  through  this  county,  with  offices 
at  Potosi  and  Lancaster. 

PLATTEVILLE  is  the  largest  of  the  interior  towns,  situated 
in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  extensive  mineral  diggings. 
It  is  on  a  small  branch  of  the  Little  Platte  river.  The 
village  was  incorporated  in  1841,  and  has  an  academy, 
with  a  newspaper,  and  1,500  population. 

LANCASTER,  the  seat  of  justice,  is  a  flourishing  town, 
situated  near  the  center  of  the  county.  It  has  a  Court- 


152  WESTERN    PORTRAITURE. 

house  of  brick,  and  a  newspaper  published  weekly.     Popu 
lation  about  500. 

Grant  river  is  the  largest  in  the  county,  and  is  said  to 
be  navigable  twelve  miles  above  its  mouth,  at  Potosi.  It 
has  numerous  small  branches,  among  which  are  Bois, 
Pigeon,  and  Rattlesnake  creeks. 

In  this  county  is  located  the  most,  or  all  of  that  large 
20,000  acre  tract,  owned  by  EARL  MURRAY,  of  Scotland. 
This  possession  of  such  large  bodies  of  land  by  one  man, 
is  a  detriment  to  the  prosperity  of  the  county  and  towns ; 
and  has  prevented  as  rapid  a  settlement  as  would  other 
wise  have  taken  place ;  though  I  am  recently  told  he  is 
now  willing  to  sell  a  great  portion  of  it  at  very  low 
prices ;  as  the  high  taxes  imposed  upon  non-resident  and 
non-improved  lands — very  wisely  and  properly — by  the 
New  States,  render  it  unprofitable,  in  most  localities,  to 
hold  very  large  quantities  of  such  unproductive  property ; 
though  not  so  when  improved. 

He  has  married  a  very  rich  heiress,  of  Livingston 
county,  New  York,  and  has  been  appointed  by  the  British 
Government  to  a*  diplomatic  station  in  Turkey  and  Egypt, 
where  he  is  building  a  castle  for  his  permanent  residence. 

The  next  county  up  the  Wisconsin  river  is  Iowa.  It  is 
one  of  the  largest  and  most  important  counties  in  the 
Mineral  District.  The  surface  is  considerably  broken  by 
valleys  and  ridges,  the  whole  having  a  slight  inclination  to 
the  north  and  south  from  the  great  ridge,  running  east  and 
west  about  ten  miles  south  of  the  Wisconsin.  This  bro 
ken  character  is  owing  to  the  soft,  easily  decomposed 
limestone,  which  is  readily  carried  away  by  disintegrating 
agents.  Population,  9,576 ;  dwellings,  1,846  ;  farms,  507  ; 
manufactories,  24. 

The  famous  Platte  and  Belmonte  Mounds  are  found  in 
Iowa  county ;  they  are  composed  of  silicious  limestone, 
and  are  visible,  when  the  air  is  clear,  about  thirty  miles. 


MOUNDS FLOWERS.  153 

The  Indian  name  is  Eu-?ie-she-te-no — the  two  mountains. 
The  views  from  the  top  of  these  mounds  are  highly  in 
teresting.  Gen.  WM.  R.  SMITH,  of  Mineral  Point,  de 
scribes  them  as  follows : 

"  An  ocean  of  prairie  surrounds  the  gazer,  whose  vision  is  not 
limited  to  less  than  thirty  or  forty  miles.  This  great  sea  of  ver 
dure  is  interspersed  with  delightful,  varying  undulations,  like  the 
vast  waves  of  the  ocean,  and  every  here  and  there  sinking  into  the 
hollows,  or  cresting  the  swells,  appear  spots  of  wood,  large  groves, 
small  groups  of  trees,  as  if  planted  by  the  hand  of  art,  for  orna 
menting  this  naturally  splendid  scene.  Over  this  extended  view, 
in  all  directions,  are  scattered  the  farms  of  the  settlers,  with  their 
luxuriant  crops  of  wheat  and  oats,  whose  yellow  sheaves,  already 
cut,  form  a  beautiful  contrast  with  the  waving  green  of  the  Indian 
corn,  and  the  smooth,  dark  lines  of  the  potato  crop. 

Throughout  the  prairie,  the  most  gorgeous  variety  of  flowers  are 
seen  rising  above  the  thickly  set  grass,  which  in  large  and  small 
patches  has,  here  and  there,  been  mowed  for  hay,  all  presenting  a 
curiously  checkered  appearance  of  the  table  beneath  us.  The 
mineral  flower,  the  tall,  bright  purple  and  red  feather,  the  sun 
flower  [rosin  weed],  the  yellow  bloom,  the  golden  rod,  the  several 
small  and  beautiful  flowers,  interspersed  with  the  grass,  render 
the  scene  indescribably  beautiful. 

"  To  the  north,  the  Wisconsin  hills  are  seen  bounding  the  view ; 
to  the  east,  prairie  and  wood  are  only  limited  by  the  horizon ;  and 
the  Blue  Mounds,  on  the  northeast,  form  a  background  and  a 
landmark  ;  to  the  south,  the  view  over  the  rolling  country  extends 
into  the  State  of  Illinois  ;  in  the  southwest,  is  seen  the  Sinsiniwa 
Mound ;  the  view  to  the  west  is  only  bounded  by  the  Table  Mound, 
and  the  hills  west  of  the  Mississippi,  and  distant  about  thirty 
miles ;  while  to  the  northwest  the  high  hills  through  which  the 
'  Father  of  Waters'  breaks  his  sweeping  way,  close  the  view. 

"Below  us,  on  the  plain,  is  the  little  village  of  BEI.MONTE, 
with  its  bright,  painted  dwellings  ;  the  brown  lines  in  the  broad 
green  carpet  indicate  the  roads  and  tracks  over  the  prairie ;  the 
grazing  cattle  are  scattered  over  the  wide  surface,  looking  like  dogs 
or  sheep  in  size  ;  while  in  the  distance  are  seen  wagons  of  emigrants, 
and  ox  teams  hauling  lead,  merchandise,  and  lumber;  the  horse 
man  and  foot  traveler  are  passing  and  re-passing ;  pleasure  and 
traveling  carriages  are  whirling  rapidly  over  the  sward,  as  if  the 
country  had  been  improved  for  a  century  past,  instead  of  having 


154  WESTERN    PORTRAITURE. 

been  only  five  years  reclaimed  from  the  savages.  This  picture  is 
not  exaggerated — it  fails  of  the  original  beauty  in  the  attempt  to 
describe  that  scene  which  is  worth  a  journey  of  a  thousand  miles 
to  contemplate  in  the  calm  sunset  of  a  summer  day,  as  I  have 
viewed  it  from  the  top  of  the  Platte  Mounds." 

DODGEVILLE  is  a  smart  little  village,  north  of  Mineral 
Point,  named  in  honor  of  General  Dodge.  Several  lead 
mines  have  been  opened,  and  furnaces  put  in  operation 
here,  and  the  mineral  diggings  in  the  neighborhood  are 
valuable. 

The  county-seat  of  this  county  is  MINERAL  POINT,  the 
name  indicating  plainly  the  leading  business  of  the  place ; 
which  is  situated  on  a  high  ridge,  or  rather  several  ridges, 
of  land,  between  two  small  branches  of  the  Pecatonica, 
containing  lead  and  copper  ore ;  and  some  zinc  and  iron 
are  found  here.  The  town  and  county  are  being  steadily 
improved,  and  are  growing  in  population  and  wealth.  The 
lead  and  copper  are  principally  hauled  in  wagons  to  Ga 
lena,  thence  sent  down  the  Mississippi ;  though  recently 
some  portions  of  it  is  hauled  to  Lake  Michigan,  and  there 
shipped  for  the  East.  Mineral  Point  contains  above 
2,000  population;  a  Newspaper  is  published  here;  and 
new  as  the  country  is,  already  there  are  two  Telegraph 
offices  opened — one  on  the  "  O'Rielly  line,"  and  one  on 
"Morse's."  One  of  the  U.  S.  Land  Offices,  for  Wiscon 
sin,  is  located  at  this  place.  There  is  some  Government 
land  for  sale  in  this  county. 

HELENA  is  another  town  of  some  promise  in  this  county ; 
it  is  situated  on  the  Wisconsin,  near  the  mouth  of  Pipe 
creek.  The  distinguishing  business  of  this  place  is  the 
manufacture  of  shot. 

Arena  is  another  growing  town,  several  miles  farther 
up,  at  the  mouth  of  Blackearth  river. 

Next  east  of  this  is  Dane  county,  the  most  interesting 
county  in  the  state,  both  for  its  natural  features  and  the 


DANE    COUNTY ITS    LAKES.  155 

improvements  that  have  been  made  within  it.  It  is  some 
times  denominated  the  Four  Lakes  Country,  from  the  fact 
that  the  chain  of  charming  lakes,  so  universally  noticed 
and  admired  by  all  who  see  them,  are  located  in  Dane 
county.  The  county  is  a  very  large  one,  being  seven 
townships  east  and  west,  by  five  north  and  south,  or  42  by 
30  miles  in  extent.  It  is  also  very  nearly  central  to  the 
populated  and  tillable  limits  of  the  state ;  and  therefore, 
is  very  wisely  selected  as  the  one  in  which  is  located  the 
Seat  of  Government,  where  it  will  undoubtedly  be  perma 
nently  continued.  There  is  not,  in  the  state,  a  county 
which  presents  higher  or  as*  numerous  inducements  to  men 
of  industry,  taste,  or  wealth,  to  settle  within  its  borders, 
as  this.  Mr.  Lapham  thus  speaks  of  the  evil  effects  of 
Land  Monopoly  in  this  fine  county : 

"  As  soon  as  it  was  known  that  the  CAPITAL  of  the  Territory 
was  established  on  the  point  or  neck  of  land  between  the  Third 
and  Fourth  Lake,  a  rush  was  made  to  the  Land  Office  at  Milwau 
kee,  and  all  the  lands  subject  to  entry  in  the  vicinity,  and  for 
many  miles  around  these  lakes,  were  immediately  entered,  mostly 
by  those  who  did  not  intend  to  occupy  them  for  actual  settlement 
and  improvement.  Hence  the  improvement  of  this  county  has  not 
been  as  rapid  as  some  others,  where  the  'speculators'  had  not  op 
portunity  or  inducement  to  monopolize  all  the  most  valuable  lands. 
The  advantage  of  having  the  seat  of  Government,  however,  has  in 
some  degree  made  up  for  this  misfortune." 

I  have  previously  spoken  of  the  overthronged  number 
of  industrial  classes  in  our  large  Eastern  Cities,  so 
much  so  that  but  portions  of  them  could  have  assurance 
of  remunerating  employment ;  and  that  the  best  present 
relief  is  emigrating  to  the  West,  where  it  can  be  found. 
On  this  subject  the  New  York  Tribune  has  the  following 
remarks  as  concerning  the  city  of  New  York : 

"  The  grasshopper  who,  having  sung  all  Summer,  and  being  short 
of  food  and  shelter  in  the  Autumn,  was  advised  by  the  ant  to  dance 
all  Winter,  read  a  lesson  to  many  more  than  have  yet  heeded  it. 


156  WESTERN    PORTRAITURE. 

Especially  to  those  unwise  and  improvident  parents  who  spend 
hundreds,  if  not  thousands,  on  the  education  of  their  children,  yet 
fail  to  qualify  them  for  any  independent,  unfailing  mode  of  earning 
a  livelihood,  this  apologue  addresses  itself  with  great  force.  To 
qualify  a  youth  for  the  profession  of  lawyer,  clergyman,  or  doctor, 
may  be  very  well ;  but  no  man  is  thus  qualified  until  he  has  been 
taught  how  to  earn  his  livelihood  outside  of  such  vocation.  He  is 
not  fitted  for  unbending  and  invincible  integrity  in  a  profession 
who  has  not  been  armed  with  the  consciousness  that  he  can  earn 
a  decent  living  outside  of  that  profession,  for  which  he  will  not 
stand  indebted  to  any  man's  good  opinion. 

"  '  Can't  you  give  me  something  to  do  ?'  is  now  the  anxious  in 
quiry  of  thousands  in  our  city.  Winter  is  just  upon  us  ;  Business 
is  contracting  on  all  hands ;  hundf eds,  who  have  for  months  found 
employment  elsewhere,  are  weekly  nocking  into  the  city,  while 
thousands  who  have  been  at  work  here,  but  are  thrown  out  by  the 
contractions  of  Trade  and  Industry,  unite  with  them  in  swelling 
the  mournful  chorus,  '  Pray  give  us  something  to  do !' 

"  The  labor  you  know  how  to  perform  is  not  now  in  demand  any 
where;  there  is  no  demand  for  service  of  any  kind  here.  Our 
Labor  market  is  glutted,  and  cannot  be  otherwise  until  Spring.  If 
false  education  and  false  pride  had  no  existence — if  every  one  who 
wants  work  were  capable  of  doing  good  work,  and  precisely  that 
kind  of  it  which  is  most  needed — there  would  still  be  much  distress 
here  every  winter  from  lack  of  employment.  Europe  pours  her  sur 
plus  millions  upon  our  shores  ;  and  their  first  cry  is  for  work  !  work ! 
Our  own  country  meets  this  host  by  another  as  needy  and  as  wil 
ling  ;  for  every  one  who  can't  get  a  satisfactory  living  elsewhere, 
feels  sure  that  fortune  awaits  him  in  the  city.  So  here  are  not  less 
than  fifty  thousand  human  beings,  many  of  them  expensively  edu 
cated  for  professions ;  some  skillful  and  ready  workers  if  work 
were  to  be  had;  but  all  destitute,  unemployed,  desperate,  and 
threatened  with  starvation,  eagerly  pressing  the  inquiry — '  Can't 
you  find  me  something  to  do  :' " 

Upon  the  wisdom — the  duty — of  the  General  Govern 
ment  allowing  all  industrious  persons,  who  wish,  a  portion 
of  our  wild,  uncultivated  domain,  sufficient  for  a  farm  free 
of  price,  the  same  paper  continues  with  well-timed  re 
marks.  Those  lands  are  now  lying  tenant!  ess,  useless,  when 
thousands  of  needy  ones  ought  to  be  cultivating  them,  and 


DUTY  OF  GOVERNMENT  TO  LABOR.         157 

deriving  a  pleasant,  independent  livelihood  therefrom  ;  the 
Government  ought  to  invite  occupants  and  tillers  upon 
those  lands,  instead  of  repelling  them,  as  is  now  the  case, 
by  requiring  terms  which  thousands  of  deserving  and 
needy  persons  are  unable  to  comply  with.  Still,  such  as 
can  buy  and  move  on  to  those  lands,  would  do  well  to  do 
so,  as  quick  as  possible,  and  leave  an  opening  for  better 
employment  to  those  who  cannot  move  away  : 

"  Your  ranks  must  be  thinned  by  the  drawing  off  of  a  large  por 
tion  of  your  number  into  other  pursuits — but  alas !  what  pursuits  ? 
If  it  were  April  instead  of  November,  and  you  were  all  qualified  to 
succeed  as  farmers,  the  earth  around  us  belongs  to  those  of  whom 
you  are  not  able  to  buy  it ;  and  the  unappropriated  lands  in  the 
Far  West  are  held  by  the  Government  for  sale,  and  not  for  unpur- 
chased  allotment  to  the  needy  and  willing,  like  you.  These  lands 
ought  to  solicit  your  free  location  and  settlement — that  would  do 
great  good  in  time,  by  drawing  off  from  the  cities  a  class  who  now 
stand  between  you  and  the  work  you  need ;  but  what  can  be  done 
for  your  present  relief,  we  do  not  know  and  cannot  suggest." 

"  What  we  can  do  in  the  premises  is  simply  that  which  Dives  in 
the  parable  could  find  no  one  to  do  for  him — we  can  warn  some 
portion  of  your  brethren  that  they  come  not  into  your  torment. 
We  can  exhort  fond  parents  to  heed  the  warning  given  them  in 
your  hard  fortune,  and  educate  their  children  so  that  they  may 
earn  a  livelihood  by  their  own  hands  if  they  are  not  wanted  to 
minister  to  the  intellectual  or  commercial  wants  of  their  neighbors. 
We  can  entreat  all  who  love  their  neighbors,  or  even  their  own 
children,  to  unite  in  establishing  the  principle  that  a  Government 
can  have  no  land  to  sell  while  it  has  a  single  subject  needing 
land  to  cultivate  and  unable  to  pay  a  price  for  it.  And  we  can  ex 
hort  all  who  have  wealth  to  so  use  it  as  to  give  the  largest  measure 
of  fairly  rewarded  employment  to  Useful  Labor,  and  thus  contri 
bute  to  the  sensible  diminution  of  human  suffering,  even  with 
out  obtaining  or  seeking  the  reputation  of  benevolence.  Finally, 
we  can  exhort  the  fortunate  and  the  unfortunate,  the  wise  and 
the  simple,  to  study  intently  and  patiently  the  great  problem  of 
human  misery  flowing  from  want,  and  devise  and  concert  mea 
sures  for  its  peaceful  and  speedy  solution.  Were  the  desire  for  it 
but  general  and  earnest,  that  solution  would  be  found." 
14 


158  WESTERN    PORTRAITURE. 

A  very  useful  and  elaborate  pamphlet  has  been  got  up 
and  published  for  circulation,  by  the  enterprising  inhabit 
ants  of  Kane  county,  descriptive  of  the  topography,  geology, 
resources,  and  improvements  of  the  county,  with  its  history 
and  statistics.  From  this  I  have  copied  the  following,  in 
regard  to  the  county  : 

"  The  43d  parallel  of  north  latitude,  within  a  minute  fraction, 
passes  through  the  center  of  Dane  county,  in  longitude  89°  2CT,  west 
from  Greenwich.  The  county  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  Sauk 
and  Columbia  counties ;  east  by  Jefferson  and  Dodge ;  south  by 
Rock  and  Green ;  and  west  by  Iowa.  Its  altitude  above  the  Atlan 
tic  Ocean,  at  the  level  of  the  Fourth  Lake,  is  788  feet,  and  above 
Lake  Michigan  210  feet.  It  is  by  far  the  largest  of  the  older  set 
tled  counties,  containing  thirty-five  townships — 1,235  square  miles 
—or  790,400  acres  of  land. 

"  The  surface,  in  general,  slopes  to  the  east  and  south — rising 
gradually  from  a  level  on  its  eastern  border,  of  about  163  feet  above 
Lake  Michigan,  until  the  vicinity  of  the  Blue  Mounds  is  reached, 
near  its  western  limits.  These  Mounds  are  the  highest  points  in 
the  state,  their  summits  attaining  an  elevation  of  1,000  feet  above 
the  Wisconsin  river  at  Helena.  The  geological  structure  of  the 
county  is  worthy  of  notice  in  this  connection,  since  the  quality  of 
soil,  in  a  given  district,  depends  almost  entirely  upon  the  ivash  it 
receives  from  its  highlands.  A  section  through  Blue  Mounds, 
would  show  the  following  result,  beginning  at  the  top  and  descend 
ing  vertically  :  Hornstone,  410  feet ;  Magnesian  lime,  or  lead  bear 
ing  rock,  1G9  feet;  Saccharoid  sandstone,  40  feet;  alternations  of 
sand  and  limestone,  188  feet;  Sandstone,  3  feet;  Lower  limestone, 
(at  the  level  of  the  Wisconsin,)  190  feet.  It  will  thus  be  seen  that 
limestone  forms  the  principal  masses  of  solid  rock ;  but  in  addition 
to  this,  the  drift  formation  which  covers  the  surface  is  composed,  in 
considerable  proportion,  of  limestone  boulders  and  pebbles.  Thus 
all  the  elements  exist  here  to  form  a  soil  of  the  best  possible  de 
scription,  for  agricultural  purposes ;  and  accounts  for  that  thorough 
impregnation  of  lime,  so  essential  to  certain  crops." 

"  The  surface  of  the  county  generally  is  rolling — hills  and  val 
leys  succeeding  each  other — presenting  much  such  an  appearance 
as  we  might  suppose  the  ocean  would  have,  if,  after  being,  lashed 
by  a  tempest,  its  waters  were  instantly  congealed,  and  the  surface 
clothed  with  verdure.  The  hills  '"are  seldom  so  abrupt  that  they 


DANE  COUNTY THE  FOUR  LAKES.         159 

may  not  be  cultivated  even  upon  their  summits;  valleys,  though 
well  watered,  are  very  rarely  marshy.  There  is  not  a  county 
in  the  state  containing  so  large  a  body  of  good  lands,  as  Dane. 
It  is  doubtful  whether  there  is  a  single  section,  not  covered  by 
water,  which  is  not  capable  of  profitable  cultivation.  The  soil 
is  composed,  for  the  most  part,  of  the  black  deposit  of  decayed  ve 
getation,  which  for  countless  ages  has  flourished  in  wild  luxuriance 
and  rotted  upon  the  surface ;  of  loam,  and  in  a  few  localities,  of 
clay  mixed  with  sand.  The  deposit  of  vegetable  mold  has  uni 
formly  several  inches  of  thickness  on  the  tops  and  sides  of  hills ;  in 
the  valleys  it  is  frequently  a  number  of  feet.  A  soil  thus  created 
of  impalpable  powder  formed  of  the  elements  of  organic  matter — 
*  the  dust  of  death ' — we  need  scarcely  remark,  is  adapted  to  the 
highest  and  most  profitable  purposes  of  agriculture — yielding  crop 
after  crop  in  rank  abundance,  without  any  artificial  manuring." 

The  principal  rivers  in  this  county  are,  the  Wisconsin, 
Catfish,  Sugar,  and  many  other  smaller  creeks  and  rivulets. 

The  most  attractive  feature  of  this  county  are  its  clear 
lakes.  Their  waters  generally  originating  in  deep  springs, 
they  are  necessarily  exceedingly  cool  and  pure. 

"  The  lakes  in  this  county  are  among  the  most  beautiful  objects 
that  imagination  can  picture,  and  lend  a  charm  to  the  scenery  such 
as  few,  if  any,  localities  can  present.  There  are  in  all  twelve  lakes 
in  Dane  county ;  bat  the  principal,  and  those  most  attractive,  are 
the  Four  Lakes,  lying  in  the  valley  of  the  Catfish,  and  nearly  in  a 
row,  from  northwest  to  southeast.  A  brief  description  of  each,  is 
all  that  space  here  allows.  But  they  must  be  seen  to  be  appre 
ciated. 

"  First  Lake. — This  lake  is  the  lowest  of  the  four.  Its  longest 
diameter  is  three  and  one  eighth  miles,  by  two  miles  in  its  short 
est  ;  its  circumference  is  nine  and  a  half  miles,  and  it  covers  five 
square  miles.  It  is  situated  nine  miles  above  DUNKIRK  FALLS, 
near  the  southern  line  of  the  county. 

"  Second  Lake.— This  body  of  water  lies  three  and  a  half  miles 
above  First  Lake.  Its  length  is  three  and  a  half  miles,  and  its 
width  about  two ;  and,  like  the  First,  has  an  average  depth  of 
about  twelve  feet.  % 

"  Third  Lake  is  next  above,  at  a  distance  of  seven  eighths  of  a 
mile.  It  is  about  six  and  a  half  miles  long,  by  two  broad,  occupy 
ing  an  area  of  six  square  miles.  MADISON,  the  county-seat  and 


160  WESTERN   PORTRAITURE. 

Capital  of  the  State,  is  located  on  the  strip  of  land  between  it  and 
the  next,  about  one  mile  across. 

"  Fourth  Lake. — This  is  the  uppermost  and  by  far  the  largest 
of  the  Four  Lakes.  It  has  a  periphery  of  nineteen  and  one  fourth 
miles,  and  covers  an  area  of  fifteen  and  sixty-five  hundredths  square 
miles.  Its  diameter  is  six  miles  by  nine. 

"  The  water  of  all  these  lakes,  coming  from  springs,  is  cold  and 
clear  to  a  remarkable  degree.  For  the  most  part,  their  shores  are 
made  of  a  fine  gravel  shingle  ;  and  their  bottoms,  which  are  visible 
at  a  great  depth,  are  composed  of  white  sand,  interspersed  with 
granite  boulders.  Their  banks,  with  few  exceptions,  are  bold.  A 
jaunt  around  them  affords  almost  every  variety  of  scenery — bold 
escarpments  and  overhanging  cliffs,  elevated  peaks,  and  gently 
sloping  shores,  with  graceful  swales  or  intervals,  affording  magnifi 
cent  views  of  the  distant  praries  and  openings ;  they  abound  in  fish 
of  a  great  variety,  and  water-fowls  innumerable  sport  upon  the  sur 
face.  Persons  desiring  to  settle  in  sightly  locations  with  magnifi 
cent  views  of  water  and  woodland  scenery,  may  find  hundreds  of  unoc 
cupied  places  of  unsurpassed  beauty  upon  and  near  their  margins." 

Beside  the  above,  Lake  Wingra  is  a  very  pretty  one 
and  deserves  notice  here,  as  it  adds  much  to  the  land 
scapes  seen  from  several  points  in  the  neighborhood.  It 
is  about  half  the  size  of  Second  Lake,  and  lies  a  short  dis 
tance  southwest  from  the  town,  and  south  of  Fourth  Lake. 

The  Catfish  river  is  the  outlet  of  these 'lakes,  and  is  also 
the  clear,  bright  channel  which,  running  from  the  upper  to 
the  lower  one,  connects  all  these  glittering  bodies  in  one  bril 
liant  chain,  like  so  many  pure  pearls  strung  on  silver  wires. 

The  following  altitudes  and  measurements  are  from  the 
reports  of  Capt.  CRAM,  who  was  commissioned  by  the  gov 
ernment  to  make  a  topographical  survey  in  the  Western 
Country  : 

"  The  Catfish,  between  the  Fourth  and  Third  Lakes,  a  distance  of 
one  mile,  has  a  width  of  from  sixty  to  one  hundred  feet,  and  a  depth 
of  three  feet,  except  near  the  Fourth  Lake,  where  the  width  is  only 
thirty-five,feet,  and  the  depth  two.  The  descent  is  estimated  at  a 
little  less  than  two  [five]  feet.  Between  the  Third  and  Second 
Lakes  the  descent  is  but  very  little ;  the  average  width  is  about 
three  hundred  and  fifty  feet,  and  the  depth  varies  from  one  to  nine 


LAND    MONOPOLY MR.    FAREWELL.  161 

feet ;  distance,  seven  eighths  of  a  mile.  Between  the  Second  and 
First  Lakes,  three  and  a  half  miles,  there  are  three  slight  rapids, 
having  a  total  descent  of  about  two  feet ;  and  the  depth  of  water 
varies  from  one  to  three  feet.  From  the  First  Lake  to  Dunkirk 
Falls,  nine  miles,  there  is  but  little  fall  in  the  river,  the  water 
being  usually  deep,  and  about  one  hundred  and  thirty  feet  average 
width. 

"  At  the  DUNKIRK  FALLS  there  is  a  rapid,  in  which  the  descent 
is  six  feet,  in  a  distance  of  one  and  one  fourth  miles,  there  being 
no  perpendicular  fall.  The  banks  are  from  fifty  to  sixty  feet  high, 
and  the  valley  is  much  contracted.  From  this  point  to  Rock  river, 
twelve  miles,  there  is  a  constant  succession  of  rapids — one  having 
seven  feet  and  four  inches  descent  in  a  distance  of  about  one  mile. 
The  whole  descent  on  these  rapids  (twenty-five  in  all)  was  ascer 
tained  to  be  thirty-four  and  sixty-eight  hundredths  feet.  The 
Catfish  enters  Hock  river  eleven  and  a  half  miles  below  the  foot  of 
Lake  Koshkonong.  The  whole  length  of  the  stream,  from  the 
head  of  the  Fourth  Lake,  is  forty  miles,  twenty-eight  of  which  could 
be  made  navigable  by  the  erection  of  one  dam  at  Dunkirk,  not  ex 
ceeding  six  feet  in  hight." 

From  the  census  of  1850,  it  appears  that  the  population 
of  Dane  County  at  that  time  was  nearly  17,000,  but  is  es 
timated  now  to  be  about  19,000. 

There  is  now  considerable  good  land  for  sale  in  this 
county,  which  may  be  bought  for  reasonable  prices,  though 
some  monopolists  still  hold  on  to  their  uncultivated  lands, 
waiting  for  unreasonably  high  prices ;  but  there  are  other 
men  who,  with  more  public  spirit  and  liberal  principles, 
are  ready  and  offering  lands  at  a  moderate  profit.  As  one 
instance  of  the  latter  character,  we  can  refer  to  the  enter 
prising  builder  and  owner  of  the  Madison  Flouring  Mills, 
which  are  unequaled  in  the  West,  and  unsurpassed  in  any 
part  of  our  nation.  Mr.  FAREWELL  spent  much  time  and 
money,  traveling  in  Europe,  to  examine  minutely  the 
Flour-making  business  there  in  its  greatest  perfection,  and 
to  that  has  added  the  best  improvements  of  Yankee  inge 
nuity. 

Persons  visiting  that  region  of  country  for  the  purpose 


162  WESTERN    PORTRAITURE. 

of  buying  lands,  town  property,  or  establishing  machinery, 
will  find  it  to  their  profit  and  pleasure  to  call  upon  Mr. 
Farwell,  or  Mr.  Kichardson  who  will  readily  supply  them 
with  information  or  lands. 

MADISON,  county-seat  of  Dane,  and  capital  of  the  state, 
perhaps,  combines  and  overlooks  more  charming  and  di 
versified  scenery,  to  please  the  eye  of  fancy,  and  promote 
health  and  pleasure,  than  any  other  town  in  the  West ;  and 
in  these  respects  it  surpasses  any  other  state  capital  in  the 
Union.  Its  bright  lakes,  fresh  groves,  and  rippling  rivu 
lets,  its  sloping  hills,  shady  vales,  and  flowery  meadow- 
lawns,  are  commingled  in  greater  profusion  and  disposed 
in  more  picturesque  order  than  we  have  ever  elsewhere 
beheld. 

At  some  time  in  our  travels  or  observations,  all  of  us 
have  met  with  some  location  that  was  at  once  and  indel 
ibly  impressed  upon  the  fancy  as  the  paragon  of  all  out 
door  loveliness  and  beauty — the  place  with  which  all 
others  were  compared,  and  to  which  they  must  bear  some 
respectable  degree  of  resemblance,  to  be  esteemed  de 
lightful  locations.  With  many  persons,  Madison  is  that 
paragon  of  landscape  scenery.  As  the  brilliant  diamond, 
chased  around  with  changing  borders,  which  sparkles  on 
the  swelling  vestment  of  some  queenly  woman,  so  this 
picturesque  village,  with  its  varied  scenery,  sits  the  coro- 
uidl  gem  on  the  broad  and  rolling  bosom  of  this  rich  and 
blooming  state. 

Nor  is  it  less  noteworthy  for  its  business  advantages 
and  healthful  position.  Situated  on  elevated  ground  amid 
delightful  groves  and  productive  lands,  well  above  the  cool 
clear  lakes,  it  must  be  healthy ;  while  the  abundance  and 
convenience  of  fine  streams  and  water-powers  must  facili 
tate  a  sound  and  rapid  advancement  here  in  agricultural 
pursuits,  and  the  mechanic  arts.  There  are  also  several 
liberal  charters  for  Railroads,  connecting  Madison  with 


MADISON COLLEGE    HILL.  163 

Milwaukee,  Chicago,  and  the  Mississippi  river ;  some  of 
which  are  already  being  pushed  ahead  with  energy. 

For  a  more  minute  description  of  the  groun(J  which 
this  town  occupies,  I  copy  the  following  from  the  pam 
phlet  before  referred  to  : 

"  MADISON  occupies  the  isthmus  between  the  Third  and  Fourth 
Lakes.  It  is  in  the  geographical  center  of  the  county,  and  near 
the  center  of  the  basin  of  the  Catfish.  The  land  on  which  it  is 
located  rises  abruptly  from  the  shore  of  the  Third  Lake  about  50 
feet,  and  from  thence  ascends  gradually,  going  northwest,  until 
the  center  of  the  CAPITOL  PARK  is  reached,  about  70  feet  above 
the  Lakes.  From  thence,  with  a  little  greater  slope,  it  pitches  to 
the  northwest,  descending  gradually  until  near  the  Fourth  Lake, 
when  it  rises  with  considerable  abruptness  about  75  feet,  and  then 
falls  off  boldly  to  the  shore  of  the  Fourth  Lake — the  distance 
across  being  about  three  fourths  of  a  mile.  Following  the  cardi 
nal  points,  the  ground  descends  every  way  from  the  CAPITOL,  all 
the  streets  from  the  corners  of  the  square  terminating  in  the  lakes, 
save  the  western,  which  slopes  gradually  about  half  a  mile,  and 
then  rises,  until  at  the  distance  of  exactly  one  mile  from  the  cap- 
itol,  it  attains  an  elevation  of  at  least  125  feet.  This  is  COLLEGE 
HILL,  the  magnificent  site  of  the  University  of  the  State.  Fourth 
Lake  washes  the  north  base  of  this  hill." 

Madison  is  rapidly  increasing  in  the  number  of  its  pop 
ulation,  its  buildings,  and  other  improvements.  It  has 
four  or  five  Newspaper  establishments ;  and  a  Telegraph 
line  connecting  with  the  Lakes  and  the  Mississippi. 

The  population  of  Madison  is  somewhere  between  two 
and  three  thousand ;  a  people  who  for  intelligence,  taste, 
and  hospitality,  are  not  surpassed  by  any  community  in 
the  state. 

The  purity  of  the  water,  with  the  healthy  central  lo 
cation  which  it  possesses,  renders  this  one  of  the  most 
favorable  and  appropriate  sites  for  a  Water-Cure  establish 
ment  to  be  found  in  the  West,  which  the  people  are  anx 
ious  to  have  instituted  among  them. 

The  last  of  the  counties,  which  lie  on  the  Wisconsin 


164  WESTERN"   PORTRAITURE. 

river,  on  its  south  bank,  is  Columbia  county.  Few  coun 
ties,  if  any,  in  the  state,  surpass  this  for  the  fertility  and 
feasibility  of  its  lands,  being  mostly  prairie,  with  fine 
groves  of  timber  at  convenient  intervals.  It  lies  mostly 
on  the  south  and  east  of  Wisconsin  river,  while  one  corner 
of  it  touches  on  Neenah  river.  Population,  9,565 ;  dwell 
ings,  1,855;  farms,  988;  manufactories,  25. 

FORT  WINNEBAGO  is  now  the  county-seat,  it  having 
been  recently  removed  from  COLUMBUS,  a  handsome  little 
village  of  some  1,000  inhabitants.  Fort  Winnebago  con 
tains  about  700  population.  It  is  situated  at  the  Portage 
between  Wisconsin  and  Neenah  rivers. 

I  adopt  the  following  description  of  this  point  from 
Lapham's  work : 

"  The  Winnebago  Portage,  between  the  Wisconsin  and  Neenah 
rivers,  near  Fort  Winnebago,  in  this  county,  is  a  point  often  men 
tioned  by  all  who  speak  or  write  about  Wisconsin.  At  times  of 
flood,  the  waters  of  the  Wisconsin  occasionally  cover  the  marshy 
ground  at  this  place,  to  the  depth  of  three  feet ;  and  being  at  such 
times  the  highest,  the  water  passes  into  the  Neenah,  thus  sending 
portions  of  its  water  to  the  ocean  by  two  different  routes.  The 
Portage  Canal  Company  have  dug  a  ditch  across  the  portage, 
about  two  feet  wide  and  two  feet  deep.  Captain  Cram  reports, 
that  the  length  of  canal  necessary  to  cross  this  portage  is  seven 
'  J^ndred  and  thirty-nine  feet ;  and  that  the  fall 

froul  tlr  ^o  Neenah,  in  October,  1839,  was  one  foot 

and  *.v-.nvv,  A.  This  difference  constantly  varies,  ac- 

coraing  to  the  stc.&  .,1  tue  water  in  the  two  streams,  but  it  is  be 
lieved  that  it  seldom  exceeds  three  feet." 

There  is  a  Canal  in  progress,  for  steamboat  navigation 
between  these  two  rivers ;  which  is  also  extended  down 
Neenah  river,  after  it  leaves  Lake  Winnebago,  by  slack 
water,  to  admit  boats  to  pass  through  to  Green  Bay.  Be 
tween  the  lake  and  bay  there  is  an  immense  amount  of 
excellent  water-power,  which  recently  is  being  employed 
by  Eastern  Capitalists,  who  contemplate  establishing  fac 
tories  on  a  large  scale,  something  after  the  manner  of  those 


MARQUETTE    COUNTY ITS    LAKES   AND   RIVERS.        165 

in  New  England.  I  shall  note  this  farther  when  speaking 
of  the  counties  through  which  it  passes. 

There  are  several  small  and  handsome  lakes  in  Columbia 
county,  the  principal  of  which  are  Lake  Sarah,  Swan  and 
Mud  lakes.  Swan  is  a  widening  of  Neenah  river. 

Wisconsin,  Neenah,  and  Baraboo  are  the  chief  rivers 
which  water  this  county,  beside  some  smaller  creeks. 
Baraboo,  like  Wisconsin,  runs  through  a  great  Lumber 
Country. 

Marquette  county  lies  north  of  the  last-named,  and 
south  and  east  of  Neenah  river.  It  is  noted  for  its  good 
lands,  deep  lakes,  and  fine  water-powers.  It  is  much  set 
tled  with  tidy,  thrifty  farmers,  who  are  doing  finely.  It 
contains  8,642  population  ;  dwellings,  1,747  ;  farms,  337; 
manufactories,  9.  There  are  several  fine  villages  in  this 
county. 

Two  of  the  largest  lakes  are  Puckawa  and  Buffalo, 
which  are  seven  to  ten  miles  long  and  one  to  two  wide, 
being  expansions  of  Neenah  river.  Green  lake  is  distin 
guished  for  its  clear  water,  with  the  fine  lands  and  beauti 
ful  scenery  which  surround  it. 

"  Green  lake  lies  immediately  east  of  Puckawa ;  eight  miles 
long  by  two  broad  ;  its  waters  deep  and  clear.  The  b^Horn.js  cov 
ered  with  white  pebbles ;  and  wild  rice  or  fl  on  «\os 
not  grow  upon  it,  as  upon  many  of  th/'~  .1 

"  Little  Green  lake  lies  four  miles  Sou  en  lake,  on.  and 

a  half  miles  long  by  a  mile  wide,  with  a  circumference  of  about 
seven  miles.  The  water  is  said  to  be  very  deep.  The  Green  Bay 
Republican  says,  '  It  has  been  sounded  to  the  depth  of  more 
than  forty  feet,  and  no  bottom  found ;  in  many  places,  at  a  dis 
tance  of  twenty  yards  from  the  shore,  the  water  is  from  eight  to 
twelve  feet  deep,  and  remarkably  pure.  There  is  no  Visible  inlet, 
and  but  one  outlet,  which  is  so  inconsiderable,  that  it  is  in  fact  only 
a  mere  drain.  The  scenery  around  is  picturesque  and  beautiful 
beyond  description.  On  the  north  side,  for  more  than  a  mile  in 
extent,  the  shore  is  composed  of  a  beautiful  white  sandstone,  rising 
in  some  instances  perpendicularly  to  the  hight  of  probably  seven- 


166  WESTERN    PORTRAITURE. 

ty-five  or  eighty  feet.     This  stone  possesses  all  the  properties  of 
the  best  grindstones  brought  into  this  Territory.'  " 

MARQUETTE  is  the  county-seat,  a  pleasantly  situated 
and  thriving  town. 

The  principal  business  town  is  BERLIN,  a  thriving  vil 
lage,  of  over  1,000  population,  with  a  good  landing  on 
the  river. 

Fon  du  he  county  lies  east  of  Marquette,  and  surround 
ing  the  head  of  Lake  Winnebago.  There  is  much  good 
land,  timber,  and  water-power  in  this  county,  with  some 
marsh,  or  low  wet  lands.  It  presents  many  good  farms, 
and  several  thriving  villages.  Population,  14,512  ;  dwell 
ings,  2,722;  farms,  1,073";  manufactories,  16. 

FON  DU  LAC  is  the  county-seat,  and  is  not  exceeded  by 
any  village  in  the  state  for  rapid  growth  and  active  busi 
ness.  It  is  situated  on  a  river  of  the  same  name,  near  its 
entrance  into  the  lake.  It  contains  nearly  3,000  inhabit 
ants.  Several  steamboats  run  from  this  port  to  various 
points  on  Lake  Winnebago  and  Neenah  river. 

This  lake  is  from  30  to  40  miles  long,  and  about  8  miles 
wide,  and  is  of  very  pleasant  navigation.  The  counties 
whirT  surround  it  are,  Brown,  on  the  north ;  Calumet,  on 
the  east ;  Fon  du  lac,  on  the  south,  and  Winnebago,  on  the 
west, 

As  one  passes  through  it,  in  the  steamers  which  busily 
ply  upon  fts-  surface,  he  is  reminded  of  Seneca  lake,  in 
New  York,  as  some  of  the  shore-scenery,  in  many  respects, 
resembles  that ;  there  are  many  romantic  and  attractive 
prospects  around  its  borders.  Captain  CRAM  thus  speaks 
of  this  lake.: 

"  The  Neenah  river  enters  it  near  the  middle,  on  the  western 
shore,  and  leaves  it  at  the  northwest  angle,  by  two  channels,  en 
closing  Doty's  island,  by  which  it  is  connected  with  the  Little 
Butte  des  Marts  lake.  These  channels  are  known  as  the  Winne 
bago  rapids.  The  water  is  hard,  and  when  not  violently  agitated, 


TACHEDA CERESCO     SOCIETY.  167 

is  quite  pellucid,  but  becomes  turbid  during  long  and  severe 
blows ;  and  has  a  depth  sufficient  for  the  purposes  of  navigation. 
On  the  northern  extremity  the  shore  is  low,  having  a  narrow  sandy 
beach,  for  an  extent  of  about  eight  miles.  On  the  east  side  the 
shore  presents  a  remarkable  feature  for  an  extent  of  fifteen  miles, 
in  a  wall  composed  of  rocks  laid  together,  as  if  placed  there  by  the 
hand  of  art.  A  similar  wall  pertains  to  portions  of  the  western 
shore,  but  with  less  continuity  than  is  observed  on  the  east." 

TACHEDA  is  another  handsome  and  thriving  village,  lo 
cated  on  this  lake,  and  with  near  1,000  population ;  some 
four  miles  nearly  east  of  the  county-seat.  There  are  some 
other  small  towns  springing  up  in  this  county. 

In  Fon  du  lac  county  is  the  town  of  CARESCO,  established 
something  on  the  Fourier  plan,  with  some  changes  neces 
sary  to  adapt  it  to  this  country  and  people.  It  is  in  a 
flourishing  condition,  and  has  a  very  intelligent  and  indus 
trious  population,  with  good  schools,  libraries,  lectures, 
etc. ;  beside,  they  take  a  great  number  of  newspapers  and 
periodicals.  It  was  commenced  in  May,  1844,  with 
twenty-five  persons  of  various  occupations.  Mr.  Lapham, 
in  1846,  gives  the  following  extracts  of  a  letter  from  Mr. 
W.  Chase,  one  of  the  members,  in  regard  to  this  experi 
ment.  He  says : 

"  We  are  under  the  township  government,  organized  similar  to 
the  system  in  New  York.  Our  town  was  set  off  and  organized  last 
winter,  by  the  Legislature,  at  which  time  the  Association  was  also 
incorporated  as  a  joint-stock  company  by  a  charter,  which  is  our 
constitution.  We  had  a  post-office  and  mail,  weekly,  within  forty 
days  after  our  commencement ;  thus  far  we  have  obtained  all  we 
have  asked  for. 

"  We  have  religious  meetings  and  Sabbath  schools,  conducted  by 
members  of  some  half  a  dozen  different  denominations  of  Chris 
tians,  with  whom  creeds  and  modes  of  faith  are  of  minor  import 
ance,  compared  with  religion.  All  are  protected,  and  all  is  har 
mony  in  that  department. 

"  The  Phalanx  has  a  title  from  Government  to  1,440  acres  of  land, 
on  which  there  is  one  of  the  best  water-powers  in  the  county,  a 
saw-mill  in  operation,  a  grist-mill  building,  640  acres  under  im- 


168  WESTERN     PORTRAITURE. 

proveinent,  400  of  which  are  now  seeding  to  winter  wheat;  we 
raised  about  fifteen  hundred  bushels  the  past  season,  which  is  suffi 
cient  for  our  next  year's  bread — have  about  seventy  acres  of  corn 
on  the  ground,  which  looks  well,  and  other  crops  in  proportion. 
Our  property  is  entirely  unencumbered,  the  society  free  from  debt, 
and  we  have  an  abundance  of  cattle,  horses,  crops,  and  provisions, 
for  the  wants  of  our  present  numbers,  and  physical  energy  enough 
to  obtain  more.  Thus,  you  see,  we  are  tolerably  independent,  and 
we  intend  to  remain  so,  as  we  admit  none  as  members  who  have 
not  sufficient  physical  strength  to  warrant  their  not  being  a  burden 
to  the  society.  We  have  one  dwelling-house  nearly  finished,  in 
which  reside  twenty  families,  with  a  long  hall  conducting  to  the 
dining-room,  where  all  who  are  able  may  dine  together." 

Winnebago  county  lies  north  of  the  one  last  described. 
It  contains  much  good  lands,  with  some  marsh,  and  con 
siderable  water-power  ;  and  it  enjoys  some  of  the  benefits 
of  navigation  on  the  lake.  There  are  several  lakes  in  this 
county.  I  copy  Mr.  Lapham's  descriptions  of  the  princi 
pal  ones : 

"  Pewaugone  lake  is  an  expansion  of  Wolf  river,  about  ten 
miles  in  length,  commencing  a  short  distance  above  its  junction 
with  the  Neenah. 

"  ".  reat  Butte  des  Marts  lake  is  an  expansion  of  the  Neenah 
river,  four  and  a  half  miles  above  Lake  Winnebago ;  three  and  a 
half  miles  in  length,  and  from  one  to  two  miles  in  breadth. 

"  Little  Suite  des  Morts  lake  is  another  expansion  of  the  Neenah, 
immediately  below  Winnebago  rapids ;  about  four  and  a  half  miles 
long,  and  f-^  mile  wide. 

"  These  two  las'  lakes  (Buttes  des  Morts,  or  Hills  of  the  Dead) 
are  named  f  •  or  mounds  said  to  have  been  formed  of  the 

dead  bodk^  „*  ae  Indians  slain  in  some  battle,  which  were  thrown 
into  1  "ips  and  covered  with  earth.  They  are  now  grown  over 
with  grass,  and  present  much  the  same  appearance  as  the  ancient 
mounds  so  profusely  scattered  through  the  West." 

Population  of  the  county,  10,179;  dwellings,  1,903; 
farms,  347 ;  manufactories,  30. 

OSHKOSH  is  the  county-seat,  a  very  flourishing  town  of 
about  2,000  inhabitants.  It  is  situated  at  the  entrance  of 


CALUMET  COUNTY INDIANS.  169 

Neenah  river  into  the  lake,  and  is  a  pla^e  of  much  mechan 
ical  business  and  trade.  Neenah  is  another  fine  growing 
town  in  this  county. 

Calumet  county  lies  on  the  east  side  of  Lake  Wimie- 
bago.  In  this  county  is  located  the  Stockbridge  and  Brotli- 
ertown  Indian  Reservation.  They  have  fine  schools  and 
churches ;  while  their  shops,  farms,  fences,  buildings,  etc., 
compare  favorably  with  others  in  the  country.  They 
have,  for  some  years,  been  represented  by  a  member  of 
their  own  people  in  the  state  legislature.  In  1846  the 
population  of  this  county  was  some  800  ;  it  is  now  1,800. 
A  high  rocky  ridge  runs  north  and  south  through  the 
county,  parallel  with  the  lake  shore,  from  the  east  side  of 
which  the  Sheboygan  and  Manitowoc  rivers  take  their 
rise ;  and  through  one  or  the  other  of  these  valleys,  a  very 
direct  communication  with  Lake  Michigan  is  now  contem 
plated  by  the  construction  of  a  railroad.  The  soil  in  this 
county  is  rich,  and  well  covered  with  timber,  of  which 
basswood  and  elm  constitute  a  large  proportion.  The 
rocks  found  here  are  limestone,  and  occasionally  sand 
stone  ;  and  there  are  said  to  be  some  indications  rf  coal. 
The  scenery,  especially  about  the  lake,  is  highly  beautiful 
and  picturesque.  There  is  a  Plankroad  through  a  part  of 
this  county,  and  still  much  good  land  for  sale  at  low 
prices. 

MANCHESTER,  a  growing,  pleasant  little  .village,, of  several 
hundred  population,  is  the  county-seat."  < 

Dodge  county  is  in  the  interior  of  the  stai&'^land  is  oue 
of  the  best  for  the  quality  of  its  soil  and  other  farming  re 
sources  in  the  state.  The  West  branch  of  Rock  river  takes 
its  rise  from  Fox  lake,  in  this  county ;  it  is  generally  call 
ed  the  Crawfish  creek,  which  runs  through  Aztalan.  The 
East,  or  main  branch  of  Rock  river,  rises  in  Fon  du  lac 
county,  and  runs  through  the  whole  length  of  Dodge 
county,  passing  through  the  extensive  Winnebago  march 
15 


170  WESTERN    PORTRAITURE. 

in  its  course.  This  county  contained  about  5,000  popula 
tion  in  1846,  and  it  now  has  about  20,000  population. 
It  is  named  in  honor  of  Gen.  HENRY  DODGE,  first  Governor 
of  Wisconsin.  In  description  of  this  county,  Mr.  Lap- 
ham  quotes  the  following  from  the  Milwaukee  Democrat, 
of  1843 : 

"  Springs,  and  spring  brooks,  are  more  abundant  than  in  most 
other  portions  of  Wisconsin.  The  larger  streams  are  skirted  by 
groves  of  thick  and  heavy  timber,  consisting  of  oak,  sugar,  linn, 
elm,  ash,  butternut,  hickory,  and  walnut;  while  the  smaller 
streams  run  through  the  choicest  tracts  of  burr  oak  openings  and 
prairies,  interspersed  with  valuable  thickets  of  pin  oaks,  which  will 
furnish  farmers  in  their  neighborhood  with  an  excellent  and  plen 
tiful  supply  of  rail  timber.  Excepting  the  Winnebago  marsh,  there 
is  scarcely  any  land  in  the  whole  county  (thirty  miles  square)  which 
cannot  be  cultivated. 

"  Several  causes  have  hitherto  operated  to  prevent  the  settle 
ment  of  this  district.  Its  inaccessibility  from  the  lake  shore,  be 
cause  of  the  want  of  roads,  may  be  stated  as  one  cause;  while  an 
other  is  to  be  found  in  the  fact,  that  one  half  of  this  county  is  in 
vthe  northern  land  district,  and  must  be  entered  at  Green  Bay, 
'"•«  even  more  inaccessible  from  that  region  than  Milwaukee. 
L'  t,  '  ti^,p£0fc  itirear.,  so  far  as  public  notoriety  extended,  Dodge 
county  has  been  left  &jferra  incognita.  Three  years  since,  Mr. 
HYLAND  opened  a  wagon  road  from  Watertown  to  the  center  of  the 
county,  and  settled  on  a  small  prairie  which  bears  his  name, 
whither  he  was  f  *"  ^wed  by  a  sufficient  number  of  industrious  farm 
ers  to  occupy  m  V  the  whole  of  the  prairie,  but  every  quarter 
section  adjoining  road  opened  by  this  hardy  pioneer.  About 
the  same  tiny^.six  'V-  uues  moved  from  Fox  lake,  ten  miles  down  the 
^Jea,  .de  a  settlement,  to  which  they  gave  the  name 

of  that  ixivin.  This  settlement  now  contains  twenty-five  or  thirty 
families." 

The  village  of  BEAVER  DAM  is  now  the  largest  in  the 
county,  containing  nearly  1,000  population,  with  fair  pros 
pects  of  farther  growth.  DODGE  CENTER  is  a  pleasantly 
situated  little  town.  JUNEAN,  a  new  town,  is  county-seat, 
occupying  a  pleasant  and  advantageous  position. 


JEFFERSON    COUNTY ITS    WATER-POWER.  171 

There  is  yet  some  good  government  land  for  sale,  in  this 
county.  Number  of  dwellings,  3,561 ;  farms,  2,838  ;  man 
ufactories,  30.  Hustes,  Horicon,  F  airfield,  and  others  are 
thriving  towns  in  this  county. 

Jefferson  is  another  of  the  interior  counties,  through 
which  runs  both  branches  of  Rock  river  and  Bark  creek, 
with  Koshkanong  lake  in  the  southwest  corner.  There  is 
much  heavy  timber  in  this  county,  with  some  of  the  largest 
trees  to  be  found  any  where  in  the  state.  There  are  also 
some  rough  ridges  and  large  marshes  in  the  county  ;  but 
very  little  prairie.  There  is  a  Plankroad  running  through 
this  county  from  Lake  Michigan,  designed  to  be  speedily 
continued  through  the  towns  of  Milford,  Aztalan,  Lake 
Mills,  to  MADISON.  It  is  now  completed  to  WATERTOWN. 

Other  portions  of  the  county  are  more  rolling.  There  is 
much  excellent  farming  land  in  this  county,  especially 
along  the  rivers ;  and  Rock  river  valley  maintains  here  the 
high  reputation  which  it  so  deservedly  has  farther  south. 

The  geographical  position  of  this  county,  lying  in  the 
direct  route  between  Milwaukee  and  the  capital,  is  bev 
to  afford  it  some  advantages  ;  and  with  «i.n  1  .r  .^e  ad 
vantages  and  sources  of  wealth,  JeF°r«son  is  becoming  to 
be  known  as  one  of  the  principal  counties.  The  inhabit 
ants  are  industrious,  enterprising,  and  public-spirited ;  as 
is  evinced  by  the  fact  that,  in  one  yea  .  bridges  were 
built  across  Rock  river  and  its  main  b  .n. 

The  population  of  Jefferson  county, '  -  l^?,  was  near 
5,000;  it  is  now  near  16,000.  In  this"  coir  t  .ouna 
many  of  those  mysterious  earthworks,  which  are  described 
in  another  place.  In  this  county  are  several  handsome 
lakes ;  among  which  are  Rock,  Ripley,  Cranberry,  and  some 
others.  The  streams  furnish  ample  water-power,  much  of 
which  is  already  actively  improved  with  mills  and  other 
machinery.  Dwellings,  2,933;  farms,  1,042;  manufacto 
ries,  74. 


172  WESTERN   PORTRAITURE. 

JEFFERSON,  the  county-seat,  is  situated  on  Rock  river,  a 
little  above  the  junction  of  the  Crawfish.  A  dam  has  been 
thrown  across  the  river,  creating  a  good  water-power,  on 
which  is  erected  mills  and  machinery.  Considerable  busi 
ness  is  done  at  this  place. 

WATERTOWN  is  the  largest  town  in  the  county,  and  is 
handsomely  and  well  situated  on  Rock  river,  near  the  great 
bend,  and  at  the  foot  of  Johnson's  rapids,  where  a  dam 
across  the  river  creates  one  of  the  most  valuable  water- 
privileges  in  the  country.  The  village  is  built  on  both 
sides  of  th^  river,  and  is  one  of  the  most  thriving  in  the 
interior  of  the  state.  Its  population  now  numbers  between 
two  and  three  thousand. 

FORT  ATKINSON  is  a  thriving  village,  situated  on  both 
sides  of  Rock  river,  and  immediately  below  the  mouth  of 
Bark  river.  A  temporary  fort  was  erected  here  during 
the  Black  Hawk  war ;  the  place  is  destined  to  considerable 
increase. 

Wau1  sha  county  lies  between  Jefferson  and  Milwaukee 
coil  ftAjfej  .  T  been  set  off  of  the  latter  as  a  new  county 
in  1846.  j  •  ,,  vmty  contains  some  of  the  very  best 
prairie,  with  a  portion  of  timber,  openings,  and  some 
marsh.  The  distinguishing  feature  of  this  county  is  its 
"aim?r  d^  small  lakes,  many  of  which  are  most  beautiful, 
s'urrr  charming  scenery.  In  this  particular  it  is 

surp  .a  alon*.  y  Dane  county,  and  barely  equaled  by 
Marquet<-°,  county.  There  are  probably  over  thirty  lakes 
in  Waukesha  county,  many  of  them  skirted  with  hand 
some  groves. 

Muskego  is  the  largest,  being  nearly  four  miles  long  and 
two  broad ;  its  outlet  runs  into  Pishtaka  river,  near  Ro 
chester  ;  this  is  the  same  river  which  in  Illinois  is  called 
Fox. 

Maquanago  lake  is  a  widening  of  Pishtaka  river,  at  the 
flourishing  town  of  Maquanago. 


WAUKESHA    COUNTY ITS    LAKES.  173 

"VVissaua,  or  Gold  lake,  lies  on  the  road  westward  from 
Milwaukee,  and  empties  into  Bark  river,  and  is  something 
over  a  mile  in  diameter. 

Kauchee  is  a  triangular  lake,  with  each  of  its  sides  over 
a  mile  in  extent.  A  dam  across  its  outlet  affords  a  moderate 
water-power. 

La  Belle  lake,  is  so  called  from  the  beauty  which  it  and 
the  surrounding  scenery  presents ;  it  is  two  and  a  half 
miles  long,  by  one  and  a  quarter  wide.  Its  elevation  is 
considerably  above  Rock  river. 

Nagowicka  lake,  is  near  the  same  size,  and  is  distin 
guished  by  a  handsome  island  in  its  midst. 

Oconomewoc  is  the  most  southern  of  the  chain  of  lakes, 
ranged  along  the  creek  of  the  same  name. 

But  those  which  present  decidedly  the  most  curious  and 
delightful  appearance  are  the  Nashotah  (Twin)  lakes — two 
small  lakes  lying  north  of  Nemahbin  lake,  near  the  east  line 
of  the  town  of  Summit.  The  north  lake  is  two  hundred 
and  ninety-one  feet  above  Lake  Michigan,  sixty-seven 
chains  long,  thirty-one*  wide,  and  has  a  periphery  of  two 
miles.  On  the  east  bank  of  this  lake  is  the  Episcopal 
mission  station  and  their  college,  recently  established. 
The  south  lake  is  seventy-five  chains  long,  twenty-seven 
wide,  and  has  a  periphery  of  two  miles  and  a  ^aart' 
There  is  a  bright  little  rivulet  runninp  "-o  the 

other,  through  the  slight  ridge  which  vddes  t  two 
lovely  lakes.  The  stageroad  from  Madision  to  "Milwauk- 
passes  on  this  ridge,  affording  the  traveler  a  view  of  4liei- . 
on  the  right  and  left.  When  the  valorous  Lilliputian 
passed  over  the  bridge  of  the  notable  Gulliver's  nose,  his 
great  tearful  eyes,  no  doubt,  presented  to  the  dwarf  some 
thing  the  appearance  of  these  glistening  lakes  to  the 
passer-by. 

The  soil  in  this  immediate  vicinity  is  good,  though  not 
of  the  best  quality ;  while  the  timber  is  convenient  but 


174  WESTERN    PORTRAITURE. 

light.  Still,  there  are  several  fine  farms  and  pleasant 
dwellings  on  the  borders  of  the  Twin  lakes.  Population 
of  this  county,  20,000;  dwellings,  3,409;  farms,  1,743; 
manufactories,  78.  The  country  between  this  county  and 
Madison  is  a  delightful  one  for  residences. 

The  county-seat  is  WAUKESHA,  which  contains  about 
2,400  population.  It  is  a  very  handsomely  improved  vil 
lage,  situated  on  the  Pishtaka  river,  in  the  border  of  a  rich 
prairie ;  and  contains  many  excellent  buildings.  It  has 
railroad  communication  with  the  Lake,  at  Milwaukee. 
The  stage  route  from  this  place  to  Madison  is  an  unusually 
pleasant  one — through  diversified  and  highly  romantic 
scenery — groves,  prairies,  lakes,  and  rippling  streamlets, 
alternating  at  short  distances,  with  occasional  rugged  rocky 
bluffs,  which,  in  this  level,  gently  sloping  region,  amount 
almost  to  little  mountains,  as  you  wind  along  the  river 
valleys  at  their  base.  Troy  and  Springfield  are  other  pleas 
ant  towns  in  this  county. 

There  is  still  considerable  good  government  land  for 
sale,  on  this  route,  on  which  pleasant  and  productive  farms 
may  be  made. 

Walworth  county  lies  south  of  Waukesha,  and  west  of 
Racine,  occupying  the  elevation  which  divides  the  waters 
that  fall  east  to  the  lake,  and  those  which  empty  into  Rock 
river  on  the  west.  It  is  an  excellent  county  of  land  in 
which  the  prairie  predominates,  though  there  is  a  fair  share 
of  timber,  and  plenty  of  water  from  both  lakes  and  rivers. 
This  county  is  highly  cultivated  by  an  intelligent  and  fore 
handed  community  of  farmers.  In  1846,  its  population 
numbered  some  10,000;  which  is  now  nearly  doubled, 
being  about  18,000 ;  dwellings,  3,092 ;  farms,  1,980 ;  manu 
factories,  82. 

The  county-seat  is  ELKHORN,  situated  in  the  midst  of  a 
handsome  oak  grove,  is  a  pleasant,  thriving  village,  and 
contains  a  newspaper  printing  establishment.  There  are 


ROCK    COUNTY ITS    TOWNS,   ETC.  175 

several  other  fine  towns,  as  Delavan,  Geneva,  Troy,  etc., 
in  this  county. 

The  principal  lakes  in  this  county  are  Como,  Delavan, 
and  Geneva,  with  many  other  smaller  ones. 

The  principal  streams  are  Geneva,  Honey,  and  Sugar 
creeks ;  very  sweet  list  of  names,  surely. 

Rock  county  lies  west  of  Walworth,  and  north  of  the 
Illinois  line,  with  Rock  river  running  through  it  north  and 
south,  nearly  in  the  center.  Its  population  in  1846  was 
about  7,000 ;  it  is  now  above  20,000 ;  dwellings,  3,631 ; 
farms,  1,975  ;  manufactories,  126,  In  quality  of  soil  and 
other  agricultural  facilities  it  is  not  surpassed  by  any 
county  in  the  state ;  wThile  its  w^ater-power  is  probably 
equal  to  any.  It  embraces  some  of  the  best  prairies  in  the 
state,  a  large  portion  of  which  is  prosperously  cultivated. 

Deer  lake,  and  the  south  end  of  Kashkanong,  are  the 
chief  lakes  in  this  county,  with  several  very  small  ones. 

Rock  river  and  Turtle  creek  are  the  main  streams  in 
Rock  county. 

JANESVILLE  is  the  county-seat.  It  contains  3,500  inhab 
itants,  and  is  rapidly  growing.  Rock  river  affords  ample 
water-power,  on  which  is  already  built  several  fine  mills, 
and  other  machinery.  The  village  occupies  both  sides  of 
the  river ;  and  equals  most  tow^ns  in  the  state  in  activity 
of  business.  Mr.  Lapham  thus  describes  its  admirable 
location  in  1846: 

"It  is  situated  on  a  flat,  or  level,  between  the  river  and  the  foot 
of  the  bluffs,  which  are  about  one  hundred  feet  high.  The  court 
house  is  erected  on  the  bluff,  giving  it  a  very  prominent  appearance. 
Janesville  is  the  point  at  which  much  of  the  trade  between  the  east 
ern  and  western  portions  of  the  Territory  crosses  Rock  river,  and  a 
bridge  is  now  erected  for  its  accommodation.  The  distance  from 
Janesville  to  Milwaukee  is  sixty-five  miles,  and  the  same  to  Ra 
cine  ;  giving  the  citizens  a  choice  of  two  ports  on  Lake  Michigan, 
reached  in  the  same  distance ;  it  is  13  miles  from  Beloit,  41  from 
Madison,  31  from  Monroe,  and  about  80  from  Mineral  Point." 


176  WESTERN    PORTRAITURE. 

A  Railroad  Company  is  chartered,  the  stock  subscribed, 
and  the  work  commenced  in  good  earnest,  to  run  a  line 
from  Fon  du  lac  to  this  place ;  thence,  southeast  through 
Walworth  county  into  Illinois,  and  on  to  Chicago ;  which 
will  be  speedily  constructed.  Good  building  and  lime 
stone  is  quarried  here  in  abundance. 

BELOIT  is  another  very  beautiful  and  flourishing  village 
in  this  county,  situated  on  both  sides  of  Eock  river,  at 
the  junction  of  Turtle  creek ;  its  population  is  about  3,000. 
It  is  a  place  of  active  and  increasing  business;  and  is 
noted  for  its  elegant  buildings,  and  fine  wide  streets.  It, 
has  several  excellent  mills,  machine  shops,  and  a  prosper 
ous  college. 

Here,  I  am  told,  was  erected  the  first  flouring  mill  in 
the  State.  Its  water-power  is  valuable.  The  town  is  lo 
cated  on  a  level  plain,  but  is  fast  extending  on  to  the  bluffs 
each  side  of  the  river.  The  college  is  erected  on  a  high 
and  airy  bluff,  commanding  an  extensive  and  varied  pros 
pect.  In  this  vicinity  may  be  seen  many  of  those  singu 
lar  and  mysterious  mounds,  which  abound  in  the  West. 
Here,  as  at  most  other  towns  on  Rock  river,  abundance 
of  good  stone  is  quarried,  valuable  alike  for  ]ime  and 
building  purposes.  This  place  is  noted  for  its  fine  churches. 

The  stock  has  been  subscribed,  and  arrangements  made 
r^r  having  a  branch  from  the  Galena  and  Chicago  Rail 
road  built  to  Beloit,  which  will  be  rapidly  completed. 

There  are  several  other  small  villages  in  this  county, 
among  which  are  Fulton,  Clinton,  Milton,  Johnstown, 
Waterloo,  etc. 

Green  county  lies  west  of  Rock,  and  on  the  northern 
line  of  Illinois.  The  mineral  region  extends  through  most 
of  this  county  ;  yet  it  possesses  much  good  land,  timber, 
and  many  fine  farms.  Its  population  in  1846  was  about 
5,000  ;  it  is  now  8,583  ;  dwellings,  1,487  ;  farms,  805  ; 
manufactories,  46. 


LAFAYETTE    COUNTY MINES TOWNS.  177 

This  county  is  watered  by  Sugar  and  Skinner's  creeks, 
and  Peckatonica  river. 

MONROE  is  the  largest  town  in  the  county,  and  is  the 
county-seat.  It  is  a  pleasant,  thriving  little  town  of  some 
1,200  inhabitants. 

There  are  several  other  small  towns  in  the  county,  as 
Exeter,  Decatur,  Jefferson,  Brooklyn,  etc. 

Lafayette  county  lies  west  of  Green,  on  the  Illinois 
line.  It  is  in  the  Mineral  District,  and  is  rich  in  the  pro 
ducts  of  its  mines,  but  does  a  limited  business  in  agricul 
tural  operations.  It  is  a  new  county  set  off  from  the 
south  end  of  Iowa  county.  Its  population  is  11,556; 
dwellings,  2,079  ;  farms,  399  ;  manufactories,  21. 

It  is  watered  by  the  Peckatonica  and  Fever  rivers. 

SHULLSBURG  is  at  present  the  place  of  holding  the 
courts,  though  the  county-seat  has  been  removed  to  the 
center  of  the  county,  where  a  new  town  is  being  built  up 
for  its  accommodation.  Shullsburg  is  a  mining  town  of 
some  1,700  population.  Large  quantities  of  lead  ore  are 
raised  here. 

There  are  several  other  mining  towns  in  this  county, 
the  largest  of  which  are  Benton,  New  Diggings,  Fayette, 
Gratiot,  and  others. 

Brown  county  is  located  around  the  head  of  Green  B*v 
embracing  it  on  the  west,  south,  and  east,  and  on  b' 
sides  of  Neenah  river ;  it  formerly  extended  a  long  way 
to  the  northwest  into  the  pine  region;  and  was  origin 
ally  a  very  large  county,  the  old  block  off  of  which  many 
fine  and  nourishing  counties  have  been  chipped.  Mr.  Lap- 
ham's  work,  thus  speaks  of  the  dimensions  of  Brown 
county  : 

"  It  is  impossible  to  estimate  the  area  of  this  county  with  any 
degree  of  certainty,  on  account  of  the  territorial  line  between 
Wisconsin  and  Michigan  not  having  been  finally  established ;  and 
for  the  want  of  an  accurate  survey  of  this  part  of  the  Territory. 


178  WESTERN    PORTRAITURE. 

Brown  county  was  organized  by  an  act  of  the  Legislature  of  Mich 
igan,  passed  October  16,  1818,  and  then  included  all  the  country 
between  Lake  Michigan  and  a  line  draAvn  due  north  and  south 
through  the  middle  of  the  portage  between  the  Neenah  and  Wis 
consin  rivers.  The  counties  of  Manitowoc,  Sheboygan,  Calumet, 
Fond  du  lac,  Marquette,  Washington,  Dodge,  Milwaukee,  Jeffer 
son,  Racine,  Walworth,  Rock,  and  parts  of  Dane  and  Portage, 
have  been  taken  from  Brown ;  and  as  she  is  still  a  large  county,  it 
is  probable  that  her  limits  are  destined,  ere  long,  to  be  farther  re 
duced,  before  her  boundaries  are  finally  established." 

And  this  prediction  has  become  a  fact,  as  the  last  ses 
sion  of  the  Wisconsin  Legislature  constructed  five  new 
counties  off  of  Brown,  viz :  Door,  Ocojito,  Outagamie, 
Wapaca,  and  Wasliara  ;  Door  county  lying  east,  and  the 
others  west  of  Green  Bay. 

Lying  north  of  Sank  is  Adams  county,  very  thinly  pop 
ulated,  and  attached  to  the  former  for  judicial  purposes. 
It  is  rich  in  timber  and  lumbering  facilities.  The  Wis 
consin  and  Lemonwier  rivers  run  through  this  county,  fur 
nishing  ample  water-power  to  saw  lumber,  and  good 
channels  for  rafting  it  below  to  market. 

There  is  much  wild  adventure  and  perilous  exploits 
enjoyed  by  the  lumbermen  of  this  region;  a  class  of 
hardy  fellows,  who  could  scarcely  live  in  positions  of  any 
less  excitement. 

That  part  of  Brown  county  lying  between  Lake  Win- 
nebago  and  Green  Bay,  is  fast  gaining  in  population  and 
business,  from  the  improvements  going  on  along  Nee 
nah  river,  and  the  new  towns  which  are  springing  up  at 
different  points,  to  take  the  benefits  of  the  vast  water- 
powers  there  afforded  ;  and  the  Canal  which  is  being  con 
structed  to  perfect  navigation  between  those  two  bodies 
of  water.  As  this  river,  and  the  counties  through  which  it 
passes,  are  of  much  importance,  and  rapidly  becoming 
more  so,  I  will  here  transcribe,  from  the  work  before 
quoted,  a  detailed  description  of  it : 


THE*  NEENAH ITS    RAPIDS.  179 

"  The  Neenah,  or,  as  it  was  formerly  called,  the  Fox  river,  of 
Green  Bay,  is  one  of  the  most  important  rivers  in  Wisconsin,  ex 
tending,  as  it  does,  nearly  half  across  the  Territory,  and  almost 
touching  at  the  portage  the  waters  of  Wisconsin  river,  by  which 
navigation  may,  with  a  little  improvement,  be  extended  across 
the  country  from  Lake  Michigan  to  the  Mississippi.  It  takes  its 
rise  in  Lake  Sarah,  Portage  county,  and  runs  in  a  direction  a  little 
south  of  west  (almost  directly  opposite  its  general  course)  for 
eighteen  miles,  toward  the  Wisconsin,  as  if  with  the  intention  of 
entering  that  river ;  but,  owing  to  some  unaccountable  freak  of 
nature,  when  within  one  and  a  half  miles  of  that  stream,  makes  a 
sudden  turn  to  the  north,  and  soon  assumes  its  general  course  to 
ward  Green  Bay. 

"  From  the  portage  to  Lake  Winnebego,  through  which  this 
river  passes,  it  winds  about  among  extensive  marshes  covered  with 
tall  grass  and  wild  rice.  Below  the  lake  there  is  a  succession  of 
rapids,  that  require  an  expenditure  of  about  four  hundred  and 
fifty  thousand  dollars  to  render  the  river  navigable.  At  the  Win- 
nebago  Rapids,  near  Lake  Winnebago,  there  is  a  descent  of  seven 
feet  and  fifty-four  hundredths  in  a  distance  of  seven  thousand 
seven  hundred  feet.  At  the  Grand  Chute,  nine  miles  above  the 
Grand  Kakalin,  there  is  a  fall  of  twenty-nine  feet  and  sixty-eight 
hundredths,  in  a  distance  of  eight  thousand  five  hundred  and 
twenty-five  feet.  At  the  head  of  the  Chute  the  bluffs  are  very 
steep  and  high. 

"  At  the  Little  Chute,  three  miles  above  the  Grand  Kakalin, 
there  is  a  descent  of  thirty  one  feet  and  twenty-two  hundredths, 
in  a  distance  of  nine  thousand  two  hundred  feet ;  and  the  banks  are 
high  and  steep  near  the  head  of  the  Chute.  At  the  Grand  Kakalin 
there  is  a  fall  of  forty-four  feet,  in  a  distance  of  eight  thousand  six 
hundred  feet.  At  the  Rapide  de  Croche,  four  miles  below  the 
Grand  Kakalin,  the  fall  of  the  river  is  only  one  foot  and  seventeen 
hundredths,  in  a  distance  of  thirteen  hundred  feet ;  but  the  '  crook' 
is  so  short,  and  the  current  so  rapid,  and  sets  so  strongly  against 
the  southern  bank,  that  a  boat  would  experience  great  difficulty  in 
passing,  and  would  invariably  incur  the  risk  of  being  forced  against 
the  shore  before  it  could  turn  the  elbow  or  crook. 

"  The  Little  Kakalin,  and  Depere  Rapids,  are  already  improved, 
by  the  Dam  at  Depere,  of  six  feet  in  bight.  The  whole  descent  in 
these  rapids  is  about  one  hundred  and  twenty  feet ;  and  if  we  add 
one  foot  per  mile  for  the  descent  of  the  river  between  the  rapids, 
we  find  Lake  Winnebago  one  hundred  and  sixty  feet  above  Lake 


180  WESTERN    PORTRAITURE. 

Michigan.  Above  Lake  Winnebago,  the  descent  in  the  river  is 
probably  about  half  a  foot  per  mile,  or  sixty-three  feet  to  the  port 
age,  making  that  place,  as  stated  in  the  table  of  altitudes,  two  hun 
dred  and  twenty-three  feet  above  Lake  Michigan.  At  a  place  on 
this  river  called  Red  Banks,  there  are  numerous  ancient  artificial 
mounds  on  both  sides  of  the  river." 

The  splendid  water-powers  which  these  rapids  afford  are 
being  improved  and  put  to  use,  for  driving  factories,  by 
Eastern  capitalists. 

There  is  much  excellent  land  in  Brown  county,  and  yet 
much  that  is  of  little  value  for  agricultural  purposes. 
There  are  some  heavy  forests,  and  some  fine  prairies ;  a 
good  deal  for  sale,  and  at  low  prices. 

The  present  size  of  this  county  contains  between  six  or 
seven  thousand  inhabitants ;  dwellings,  1,005  ;  farms,  267  ; 
manufactories,  23.  The  Oneida  Indians,  wrho  were  remov 
ed  from  the  State  of  New  York,  are  settled  in  this  county, 
west  of  Green  Bay,  on  Duck  creek. 

The  former  county-seat,  GREEN  BAY,  is  at  the  head  of 
that  bay  on  Neenah  river.  It  occupies  a  very  important 
location,  and  possesses  an  excellent  harbor.  It  contains 
many  large  and  superb  buildings,  and  is  a  point  of  consid 
erable  commercial  transactions.  In  1846,  its  population 
was  said  to  be  about  1,000;  now  it  is  something  more 
than  double  that  amount.  Near  here,  and  to  the  west,  is 
FORT  HOWARD,  a  commanding  eminence  on  the  west  bank 
of  the  river.  Farther  up  the  Neenah,  a  short  distance,  is 
the  handsome  village  of  DEPERE,  the  new  county-seat,  pos 
sessing  a  good  water-power,  at  the  Depere  Rapids. 

There  are  some  other  smaller  towns  in  this  county, 
which  have  prospects  of  farther  growth  ;  among  them  are 
Lawrence,  Kakalin,  Navarino,  Cobperstown,  and  others. 

There  are  many  important  rivers,  which  have  either 
thair  rise  or  mouth  in  this  county.  The  Kewahnee,  the 
Twin  rivers,  and  some  smaller  ones,  empty  into  Lake 


BROWN    COUNTY RIVERS LAKES SOIL.  181 

Michigan.  The  Peshtego,  Oconto,  and  others,  fall  into 
Green  Bay.  The  Manitto,  the  Pewaugonee,  or  Wolf  river, 
with  others,  are  branches  of  the  Neenah ;  the  latter  being 
larger  than  the  Neenah  itself,  and  rises  in  the  lumber  coun 
try.  The  Manitto,  or  Devil  river,  rises  near  the  south  line 
of  the  county,  and  running  parallel  to,  and  only  two  or 
three  miles  from,  Neenah  river,  for  a  distance  of  twenty 
miles,  enters  that  river  near  its  mouth.  This  peculiar  ten 
dency  of  several  streams  and  lakes  to  parallelism,  is  prob 
ably  owing  to  some  peculiar  arrangement  of  the  strata  rock 
beneath  the  soil,  which  is  generally  limestone.  There  are 
many  othet  rivers  which  are  not  named  here. 

An  important  river  north  of  here,  in  the  pine  country,  is 
the  Menominee,  quite  a  large  river,  that  enters  Green  Bay 
near  its  middle,  and  forms  part  of  the  boundary  of  the 
county  as  well  as  state.  Its  course  has  been  very  inaccu 
rately  represented  on  the  old  maps,  and  some  difficulties 
have  resulted  in  relation  to  the  boundary  between  Wis 
consin  and  Michigan,  requiring  the  action  of  Congress  to 
adjust — showing  how  important  is  it  for  map-makers  to 
preserve  accuracy  in  their  work. 

There  are  some  small  lakes  in  this  county,  but  not  much 
known ;  in  the  northern  part  of  the  original  county  is  a 
lake  of  some  curiosity,  of  which  Lapham  says : 

"  Lake  Katakittekon,  or  «  Lac  Vieux  Desert,'  at  the  head  of  the 
Wisconsin  river  (and  not  of  the  Montreal,  as  has  been  supposed,) 
which  it  is  probable  may  fall  within  the  county  of  Brown.  The 
middle  of  this  lake  was  made  a  point  in  the  boundary  of  the  Terri 
tory.  On  an  island  in  it,  there  was  an  old  deserted  planting 
ground  of  the  Indians ;  hence  its  name  with  the  French,  Lac  Vieux 
Desert.  Lake  of  the  Desert,  as  this  is  sometimes  translated,  is  an 
improper  name,  the  country  about  it  being  not  a  desert,  but  one  of 
great  fertility.  It  occupies  a  high  level  above  Lakes  Superior  and 
Michigan,  and  abounds  in  small  lakes,  which  constitute  the  heads 
of  several  large  rivers.  The  Menomonee  of  Lake  Michigan,  the 
Otonagon,  and  Montreal  of  Lake  Superior,  and  the  Wisconsin  and 
16 


182  WESTERN    PORTRAITURE. 

Chippewa  of  the  Mississippi,  all  take  their  rise  on  the  summit  in 
the  Katakittekon  country." 

The  following  extract  from  Capt.  Cram's  report  relative 
to  this  interesting  country,  is  the  only  information  we  have 
in  relation  to  it : 

"  The  water  of  these  small  reservoirs,  and  of  the  streams  gen 
erally,  is  cold  and  limpid.  Some  of  the  lakes  were  observed  to  con 
tain  the  specled  trout,  such  as  are  generally  met  with  in  high  lati 
tudes  in  the  United  States.  The  scenery  of  these  lakes  is  beautiful, 
and  the  land  adjacent  to  them  is  better  than  is  generally  believed 
by  those  who  have  not  had  an  opportunity  of  personal  examination. 
The  country  is  not  mountainous,  but  may  be  denominated  '  roll 
ing.'  The  growth  of  timber  is  tolerably  heavy,  consisting  of  white 
and  yellow  pine  on  the  borders  of  the  lakes ;  in  some  instances  of 
cedar,  fir,  hemlock,  and  tamarack;  and  a  little  back  of  the  lakes, 
of  sugar  maple,  white  maple,  white  and  yellow  birch,  poplar,  bass, 
and  hemlock. 

"  The  soil  is  of  a  nature  to  be  adapted  to  the  culture  of  wheat,  rye, 
grass,  oats,  flax,  hemp,  and  potatoes.  In  some  places  the  soil  is 
rocky,  although  no  very  large  masses  or  ledges  of  rocks  were  ob 
served.  The  manufacture  of  maple  sugar  is  carried  on  to  a  con 
siderable  extent  by  the  Indians  of  this  region." 

From  the  north  part  of  Crawford  county,  the  Wiscon 
sin  Legislature,  at  its  last  session,  constructed  two  new 
counties,  under  the  names  of  Bad  Ax  and  La  Crosse, 
watered  respectively  by  the  rivers  of  the  same  names,  and 
by  Black  river.  They  have  very  little  settlements,  as 
yet ;  but  must  come  speedily  to  be  important  and  valua 
ble  districts  for  their  vast  forests  of  good  pine  timber ; 
while  they  also  contain  some  good  farming  lands.  The 
young  village  of  PRAIRIE  LA  CROSSE,  in  the  latter  county, 
is  favorably  situated  on  the  Mississippi,  and  is  growing 
rapidly ;  it  is  90  miles  above  Prairie  du  Chien. 

Still  north  are  other  large  tracts,  organized  into  coun 
ties,  known  by  the  names  of  St.  Croix,  La  Pointe,  Chip 
pewa,  and  Marathon,  varying  from  600  to  1,000  popula 
tion. 


CHIPPEWA    AND    8T.    CROIX    COUNTIES.  183 

Of  Chippewa  Mr.  Lapham  says 

"  In  superficial  extent,  this  county  is  estimated  at  about  nine 
thousand  square  miles.  It  embraces  the  basin  of  the  Chippewa 
river,  one  of  the  largest  tributaries  of  the  Mississippi  in  Wisconsin. 

"  The  Chippewa  river  (Ojibwa,  of  the  Indians)  runs  entirely  across 
the  Territory,  having  its  rise  in  the  State  of  Michigan,  near  the 
sources  of  the  Wisconsin,  Montreal,  etc.,  and  running  into  the 
Mississippi  near  the  foot  of  Lake  Pepin.  It  is  about  five  hundred 
yards  wide  at  its  mouth.  There  are  six  rapids  on  the  Chippewa. 
The  principajl  one,  called  the  *  Falls,'  is  about  seventy-five  miles 
above  the  mouth,  and  has  a  descent  of  twenty-four  feet  in  the  dis 
tance  of  half  a  mile.  A  very  large  amount  of  pine  lumber  is  an 
nually  sent  down  this  river.  Toward  the  sources  of  this  stream 
and  its  branches  there  are  many  fine  lakes,  some  of  which  have  re 
ceived  names.  The  principal  are  Lac  Courtorielle,  Lac  Chetac, 
Lac  de  Flambeau,  Tomahawk  Lake,  Red  Cedar  Lake,  Rice  Lake, 
etc.  The  Red  Cedar  Fork  is  the  main  branch  of  the  Chippewa, 
entering  from  the  west  about  thirty-six  miles  above  its  mouth. 
About  sixty  miles  below  Rice  Lake,  on  this  river,  according  to 
Schoolcraft,  commences  a  series  of  rapids  over  horizontal  layers  of 
sandstone  rocks,  which  extend,  with  short  intervals,  down  the  river 
twenty-four  miles.  The  remainder  of  the  distance  (about  fifty 
miles)  to  the  junction,  is  characterized  by  deep  water,  with  a 
strong  current ;  and  at  the  junction  is  commanding  and  elevated, 
affording  a  fine  view  of  a  noble  expanse  of  waters." 

Population  probably  700. 

St.  Croix  county  lies  west  and  north  of  Chippewa,  and 
east  of  Lake  Pepin ;  it  contains  some  good  farming  lands, 
and  extensive  pine  forests,  of  the  best  kind,  with  abun 
dance  of  fine  water-powers  for  mills.  Population  now  is 
nearly  1,000.  There  are  several  flourishing  young  towns 
in  this  county,  as  Buena  Vista,  St.  Croix,  and  others.  St. 
Croix,  Rum,  and  several  other  rivers  drain  this  region. 

La  Pointe  county  lies  north  of  St.  Croix  county  and 
Chippewa.  It  is  much  the  same  in  general  character  with 
the  last  two  described  counties.  Its  population  is  not  far 
from  700.  Mr.  Lapham  says : 

"  From  the  geological  character  of  some  portions  of  this  county 


184  WESTERN    PORTRAITURE. 

it  is  supposed  that  mines  of  copper  and  silver  may  yet  be  found, 
similar  to  those  now  known  to  exist  farther  East,  within  the  '  up 
per  Peninsula'  of  Michigan. 

"  The  principal  rivers  are  the  Upper  Mississippi,  Kainy  Lake 
river,  the  St.  Louis  river,  the  Bois  Brule  (or  Burnt  Wood),  the 
Mauvais,  and  the  Montreal  rivers. 

"  llainy  Lake  river  is  about  one  hundred  miles  long,  rapid  but 
navigable,  and  about  four  hundred  yards  in  width  at  its  mouth. 
Through  this  stream  the  waters  of  Rainy  Lake  pass  to  the  Lake 
of  the  Woods ;  and  from  thence  they  flow  to  Hudson's  Bay  at  the 
north. 

"  LA  POINTE,  on  Madeline  Island,  in  Lake  Superior,  is  the 
county-seat.  The  county  extends  to  the  source  of  the  Mississippi, 
and  north  to  the  Lake  of  the  Woods.  The  settlement  at  La  Pointe 
is  the  oldest  in  the  Territory — older  even  than  Green  Bay." 

Marathon  county  lies  north  of  Adams,  with  the  Upper 
Wisconsin  running  through  it ;  and  is  least  settled  of  any 
of  the  lumber  counties.  The  principal  settlement  in  it  is 
Wausaw,  with  some  600  inhabitants  in  arid  around  it  for 
several  miles,  chiefly  engaged  in  lumbering  and  sugar 
making. 

The  principal  Lumbering  Stations,  in  the  north,  lying 
mostly  on  the  Upper  Wisconsin,  are  the  Big  Bull  and  the 
Little  Bull  Falls,  Lemon wier,  Grand  Rapids,  and  Ste 
phen's  Point. 

The  running  of  Lumber-rafts  over  the  falls  and  rapids 
of  these  rivers  is  an  event  of  great  interest  and  excitement 
to  those  engaged  in  that  business.  It  is  an  operation  re 
quiring  much  skill  and  dexterity ;  beside,  at  best,  being 
attended  with  great  danger ;  and  to  watch  its  progress  is 
a  scene  of  lively  and  feverish  entertainment  to  the  specta 
tor — we  love  to  see  it,  but  are  glad  when  it  is  over. 

The  new  counties  of  Wisconsin,  alluded  to  in  another 
place,  are  Door,  and  GIBRALTER,  on  the  Lake,  county-seat' 
Oconto,  JONES'  MILL,  on  Oconto  river,  county-seat ;  Outa 
gamie,  GRAND  CHUTE,  on  Neenah  river,  county-seat; 
Waupacca,  MUKWA,  on  Wolf  river,  county-seat;  Wau- 


NEW   COUNTIES LANDS.  185 

shara,  SACREMENTO,  county-seat;  Bad  Ax,  SPRINGVILLE, 
county-seat ;  and  La  Crosse,  LA  CROSSE,  county-seat. 

These,  with  two  or  three  other  new  and  sparsely  settled 
counties,  of  course,  have  as  yet  but  few  improvements, 
and  have  their  public  buildings  yet  to  erect,  which  will 
make  demand  for  mechanics  in  those  counties.  Much  of 
the  lands  surrounding  the  county-seats  are  of  good  quality, 
and  at  present  can  be  bought  at  low  prices  ;  which  facts 
make  it  an  object  for  a  sufficient  number  of  mechanics  to 
locate  thereabouts  soon,  by  purchasing  lands  and  lots  be 
fore  they  are  monopolized  by  non-improving  speculators, 
who  will  hold  them  at  high  prices. 

A  reference  to  the  Map  will  show  the  location  and  boun 
daries  of  these  new  counties. 

RECAPITULATION. — Total  population  of  the  State,  305,- 
538 ;  number  of  cultivated  farms,  22,034 ;  number  of 
manufacturing  establishments,  1,273  ;  number  of  dwell 
ings.  56,281. 


IOWA, 


r 


ON  the  west  bank  of  the  Missis 
sippi,  and  west  of  the  States  of  Illi 
nois  and  Wisconsin,  lies  the  new 
State  of  Iowa ;  it  having  been  admit 
ted  into  the  Union  in  1846,  as  an 
independent  state — the  28th  sover 
eignty  of  that  great  Confederacy  of 
political  powers,  which  in  many  respects  is,  and  in  others 
ought  to  become,  a  high  and  noble  example  for  the  emula 
tion  of  the  civilized  world  ;  a  consummation  we  anxiously 
hope  for  our  beloved  nation — and  that  it  is  not  far  distant. 
Darby  gives  the  following  boundaries  or  limitations  to 
the  Territory : 

"  Iowa,  Territory  of  the  United  States.  There  is  some  difficulty 
in  giving  a  descriptive  sketch  of  this  Territory,  so  rapidly  ap 
proaching  its  change  to  that  of  an  independent  State  of  the  Union, 
from  our  ignorance  of  the  limits  which  may  be  assigned  to  it  when 
erected  into  a  State.  We  assume,  however,  as  probable,  the  fol 
lowing  boundaries:  the  State  of  Missouri  S.,  from  the  Missouri 
river  to  the  mouth  of  Des  Moines  river,  thence  up  the  Mississippi 
river  to  the  mouth  of  St.  Peter's  river,  and  thence  up  the  latter 
stream  to  its  great  bend,  thence  in  a  SSW.  direction  to  the  Missouri 
river,  and  down  the  latter  to  the  northwestern  angle  of  the  State 
of  Missouri. 

"  Geographically,  the  preceding  limits  embrace  a  zone  from  40" 
33'  to  45°  N.  latitude ;  and  in  longitude  from  13°  to  19°  W.  of  Wash 
ington  ;  area  about  70,000  square  miles. 


INDIAN    TITLES    EXTINGUISHED HISTORY.  187 

"The  part  organized  into  counties  and  included  in  the  census, 
lies  westward  from  the  Mississippi  river,  and  extending  nearly  due 
N.  from  the  Des  Moines  river,  to  a  little  above  Prairie  du  Chien, 
190  miles;  mean  width,  70,  and  area,  13,300  square  miles.  The 
whole  space,  however,  included  in  the  designated  boundaries  in  this 
article  extends  from  S.  to  N.  310  miles ;  mean  breadth  at  least  200 
miles,  and  area  62,000  square  miles.  The  southern  part,  and  about 
the  fourth  of  the  surface,  slopes  southwardly  toward  the  Missouri 
river,  but  the  residue  declines  SE.  toward  the  Mississippi  river, 
and  in  that  direction  is  drained  by  the  rivers  Skunk,  Lower  Iowa, 
Wabesipinecon,  Great  Macoquetois,  Penaqua  or  Turkey  river,  Up 
per  Iowa,  etc." 

In  his  work,  published  in  1848,  Mr.  Sargent  gives  the 
following  account  of  extinguishments  of  Indian  titles,  and 
their  removal  from  that  State : 

"  Until  as  late  as  the  year  1832,  the  whole  territory  north  of 
the  State  of  Missouri  was  in  undisputed  possession  of  the  Indians. 
By  a  treaty  made  in  1830,  the  Sacs  and  Foxes,  who  were  then  the 
principal  tribes,  had  ceded  to  the  United  States  the  last  of  their 
lands  east  of  the  Mississippi  river.  Their  unwillingness  to  leave 
the  ceded  territory  in  compliance  with  the  treaty,  led  to  the 
*  Black  Hawk  War,'  which  resulted,  after  several  fierce  skirmishes, 
in  the  total  defeat  of  the  Indians  at  the  battle  of  the  Bad  Ax,  in 
Wisconsin,  on  the  2d  of  August,  1832.  In  the  September  follow 
ing,  partly  as  an  indemnity  for  the  expenses  of  the  war,  and  partly 
to  secure  the  future  safety  and  tranquillity  of  the  invaded  frontier, 
a  strip  of  country  on  the  west  of  the  Mississippi,  extending  nearly 
300  miles  north  from  Missouri,  and  about  50  miles  in  width  (now 
commonly  called  '  the  Black  Hawk  purchase,')  was  ceded  to  the 
United  States;  and  in  June,  1833,  the  settlement  of  Iowa  by  the 
white  man  was  commenced. 

"  Farther  purchases  were  made,  successively,  in  the  years  1836 
and  1837  ;  and  in  1842,  by  a  treaty  concluded  by  Governor  Cham 
bers,  an  immense  tract  of  land,  containing  some  fifteen  million 
acres,  was  purchased  of  the  Sacs  and  Foxes,  for  the  sum  of  one 
million  dollars.  This  tract,  known  as  the  '  New  Purchase,'  now 
contains  some  of  the  finest  counties  in  the  State,  though  a  large 
part  of  it  was  occupied  by  the  Indians  until  October  in  1845. 

"  The  Pottawattamies,  who  inhabited  the  southwestern  corner  of 
the  state,  and  the  Winnebagoes,  who  occupied  the  '  Neutral 


188  WESTERN    PORTRAITURE. 

Ground,'  a  strip  of  country  on  the  northern  borders,  have  been 
peaceably  removed  within  the  last  two  years  ;  and  the  Indian  title 
thus  became  extinct  in  the  whole  country  lying  within  the  estab 
lished  limits  of  the  State  of  Iowa." 

The  limits  of  this  state,  as  bounded  in  their  Constitution, 
are  as  follows : 

"  Beginning  in  the  middle  of  the  main  channel  of  the  Mississippi 
river,  at  a  point  due  east  of  the  middle  of  the  mouth  of  the  main 
channel  of  the  Des  Moines  river ;  thence  up  the  middle  of  the  main 
channel  of  the  said  Des  Moines  river,  to  a  point  on  said  river  where 
the  northern  boundary  line  of  the  State  of  Missouri,  as  establish 
ed  by  the  Constitution  of  that  State,  adopted  June  12th,  1820, 
crosses  the  said  middle  of  the  main  channel  of  the  said  Des  Moines 
river  ;  thence  westwardly,  along  the  said  northern  boundary  line  of 
the  State  of  Missouri,  as  established  at  the  time  aforesaid,  until  an  ex 
tension  of  said  line  intersects  the  middle  of  the  main  channel  of  the 
Missouri  river  ;  thence  up  the  middle  of  the  main  channel  of  the  said 
Missouri  river,  to  a  point  opposite  the  middle  of  the  main  channel 
of  the  Big  Sioux  river,  according  to  Nicolett's  map ;  thence  up  the 
main  channel  of  the  said  Big  Sioux  river,  according  to  said  map 
until  it  is  intersected  by  the  parallel  of  forty-three  degrees  and 
thirty  minutes  north  latitude ;  thence  east,  along  said  parallel  of 
forty-three  degrees  and  thirty  minutes,  until  said  parallel  inter 
sects  the  middle  of  the  main  channel  of  the  Mississippi  river  ;  thence 
down  the  middle  of  the  main  channel  of  said  Mississippi  river,  to 
the  place  of  beginning." 

The  climate  is  a  pleasant  one,  the  soil  productive,  for 
most  crops,  as  wheat,  corn,  hemp,  flax,  potatoes,  and  fruit. 
Mr.  Sargent  thus  describes  the  face  of  the  country,  in 
general,  which  rather  falls  short  than  overrates  this  fine 
State : 

"  Perhaps  no  part  of  this  vast  region  combines  in  itself  more  of 
the  elements  of  prosperity  than  that  under  consideration.  Situ 
ated  nearly  midway  between  the  two  great  oceans — bounded  on 
two  sides  by  the  giant  rivers  of  the  continent — and  watered  by  in 
numerable  smaller  streams  ;  possessing  a  fertile  soil,  inexhaustible 
mineral  resources,  a  healthful  climate,  a  free  constitution,  and  a 
hardy  and  industrious  population ;  uncursed  by  slavery,  and  un- 


IOWA   CITY STATE    CAPITAL.  189 

trammeled  by  debt ;  the  State  of  Iowa  has  commenced  its  career 
with  prospects  of  far  more  than  ordinary  brilliancy.  In  extent  of 
territory,  it  is  one  of  the  largest  in  the  Union ;  and  it  may  safely 
be  prophesied,  that  it  is  destined,  at  no  distant  day,  to  rank  among 
the  first  in  point  of  wealth  and  political  importance. 

"  The  general  face  of  the  country  is  that  of  a  high, tolling  prairie, 
watered  by  numerous  streams,  and,  on  the  river-courses,  skirted 
with  woodlands.  An  idea  prevails  at  the  East,  that  the  prairies 
are  uniformly  level.  This  is  by  no  means  the  case.  Sometimes, 
indeed,  they  are  spread  out  in  boundless  plains  :  but  the  high,  or 
upland  prairies,  which  are  much  the  most  beautiful,  as  well  as  the 
best  adapted  to  cultivation — present  a  series  of  graceful  undula 
tions  not  unlike  the  swell  of  the  sea,  from  which  they  derive  the  ap 
pellation  '  rolling.' " 

The  seat  of  government  of  this  State  is  IOWA  CITY,  in 
Johnson  county  ;  a  thriving  town  romantically  located  on 
the  bluffs  of  the  Iowa  river,  in  a  pleasant  grove  surrounded 
by  magnificent  prairies.  Mr.  Sargent  thus  speaks  in  1848  : 

"  IOWA  CITY,  the  capital  of  the  State,  and  the  seat  of  justice  of 
this  county,  is  situated  near  its  center,  on  the  left  bank  of  Iowa 
river.  The  settlement  and  growth  of  this  town  have  been  remark 
ably  rapid.  In  May,  1839,  when  the  seat  of  government  was  lo 
cated,  it  was  entirely  in  a  state  of  nature.  In  less  than  one  year 
afterward  it  contained  from  five  to  seven  hundred  inhabitants, 
and  several  hotels  and  shops.  It  has  since  increased  with  equal 
rapidity,  and  now  contains  several  churches,  a  college,  academy, 
and  excellent  schools.  Steamboats  frequently  ascend  the  river  to 
this  point,  and  some  have  gone  above  in  high  stages  of  water. 
About  a  mile  above  the  city,  are  an  excellent  water-power  and  ex 
tensive  mills. 

"  The  passage  of  the  bill  to  locate  the  seat  of  government  anew, 
does  not  seem  to  have  injured  in  the  least,  the  prosperity  of  this 
city.  No  one  appears  to  entertain  a  serious  idea  that  the  seat  of 
government  will  be  removed  from  it,  at  least,  for  the  next  fifty 
years." 

The  capitol  is  a  fine  edifice ;  it  is  built  of  a  beautiful 
stone,  quarried  at  that  place,  full  of  small  starry  spots  and 
rings,  which  gives  it  the  name  of  "  birds-eye  marble,"  re 
sembling  maple-wood  of  the  same  name.  It  is  located  on 


190  WESTERN    PORTRAITURE. 

a  high,  broad  eminence  which  overlooks  an  extensive  and 
charming  prospect  in  several  directions  ;  and  at  this  time 
contains  between  two  and  three  thousand  population.  The 
Railroad  from  Dubuque  to  Keokuk,  is  to  run  through  this 
place. 

The  population  of  Johnson  county  in  1847  was  2,900 ; 
it  is  now  4,472 ;  dwellings,  799 ;  farms,  377 ;  manufac 
tories,  19. 

Those  counties,  in  this  state,  lying  along  the  Mississippi, 
I  described  on  the  passage  up  that  river  to  Minnesota.  I 
will  now  proceed  with  the  other  counties. 

There  are  several  projects  suggested  and  considerable 
effort  being  made  to  improve  the  navigation  of  Keokuk 
rapids,  so  the  passage  of  boats  at  all  times  may  be  more 
safe  and  easy. 

It  is  said  a  company  in  New  York  are  about  to  com 
plete  arrangements  for  the  construction  of  a  ship  canal 
around  the  rapids,  which  will  also  furnish  an  immense  hy 
draulic  power. 

DBS  MOINES  RIVER  COUNTRY. — Iowa  is  bounded  on  the 
south  a  short  distance  by  this  river,  wrhich  still  continues 
its  course  through  the  southern  part  of  the  state ;  and  the 
counties  which  lie  along  its  banks,  on  both  sides,  clear  up 
to  FORT  DES  MOINES,  generally,  present  as  good  agricul 
tural  facilities,  as  enterprising  a  community,  and  as  rapid 
growth,  as  any  part  of  the  State.  A  Canal  has  been 
commenced,  and  is  making  considerable  progress,  up  the 
valley  on  the  north  side  of  this  fine  river,  which,  in  high 
stages  of  water,  light  steamboats  navigate  some  distance 
up.  There  is  also  a  Railroad  projected,  to  be  laid  up  this 
valley,  on  the  north  of  the  Canal,  following  a  ridge  which 
divides  the  waters  that  fall  south  into  the  Des  Moines, 
from  those  which  run  north  and  empty  into  Skunk  river. 
This  Road  is  to  cross  the  Des  Moines  at  Fort  Des  Moines, 
and  run  thence  west  to  the  Mississippi  at  COUNCIL  BLUFF. 


LEE,  VAN  BUREN,  AND  WAPELLO  COUNTIES.     191 

The  course  of  the  Des  Moines  is  from  the  northwest  to 
southeast,  and  of  course,  cutting  the  counties  through 
which  it  passes  diagonally ;  thereby  affecting  a  larger  por 
tion  of  each  than  if  it  crossed  them  at  right  angles  with 
their  sides.  _ 

In  the  southeast  angle  of  the  state  of  Iowa,  lies  L'ee 
county,  of  wrhich  KEOKUK  is  the  principal  commercial  town 
on  the  Mississippi.  This  county  has  been  described  in 
another  part  of  this  book.  There  are  other  fine  towns  in 
the  county. 

Van  Bur  en  is  the  next  county  up  the  Des  Moines  river ; 
it  contains  excellent  lands,  with  plenty  of  timber  and 
water ;  it  is  an  old,  populous  county,  and  well  improved. 
Population,  12,270  ;  dwellings,  2,069  ;  farms,  998  ;  man 
ufactories,  23. 

KEOSAUQUE  is  the  county-seat,  situated  in  the  bend  of 
the  river ;  it  is  a  place  of  much  wealth  and  business. 
There  are  other  thriving  towns  in  the  county ;  as  Farm- 
ington,  Birmingham,  lowaville,  and  Philadelphia. 

Wapello  county  lies  next  above,  and  is  well  diversified 
by  prairie,  timber,  and  water ;  it  is  thickly  settled,  and 
pretty  well  improved.  Population,  8,471  ;  dwellings, 
1,416  ;  farms,  828  ;  manufactories,  7. 

OTTUMWA  is  the  county-seat,  situated  on  the  river,  and 
with  a  good  water-power  ;  it  is  a  flourishing  village.  There 
are  other  thriving  towns  in  the  county;  as  Eddyville, 
Columbia,  and  others. 

Mahaska  county  is  next  above,  and  is  one  of  the  best 
in  the  New  Purchase.  It  is  diversified  with  prairie  and 
timber,  and  is  well  watered,  being  the  only  county  on  the 
Des  Moines,  through  which  Skunk  river  passes.  Popula 
tion,  5,989 ;  dwellings,  981 ;  farms,  48  ;  manufactories, 
18. 

OSKALOOSA  is  the  county-seat,  situated  on  the  Skunk. 
It  is  a  new  town,  is  rapidly  growing,  and  is  surrounded  by 


192  WESTERN    PORTRAITURE. 

numbers  of  well  cultivated  farms.  Union  Mills  and  Au 
burn  are  among  the  other  towns  of  this  county. 

Marion  county  is  the  next ;  and  is  somewhat  more 
broken  than  the  others,  with  a  larger  proportion  of  timber. 
Here  the  banks  of  the  river  are  steep  and  rugged,  afford- 
ing  coal  and  iron  ore.  A  colony  of  Hollanders,  under 
President  SCHAULTER,  have  settled  in  the  northeast  corner 
of  this  county,  and  commenced  a  village  with  the  name 
of  Pella.  Population  of  the  county  is  5,480 ;  dwellings, 
930  ;  farms,  342  ;  manufactories,  24. 

KNOXVILLE  is  the  county-seat,  pleasantly  situated  on  a 
small  stream  in  the  prairie. 

Polk  county  is  the  next.  It  contains  good  land,  and  is 
well  wratered  and  timbered.  Raccoon  river  drains  the 
western  part  of  the  county  and  empties  into  the  Des 
Monies.  It  presents  many  fine  farms  and  comfortable  im 
provements.  Population,  4,515  ;  dwellings,  756  ;  farms, 
321  ;  manufactories,  9. 

The  old  village  of  FORT  DES  MOINES  is  the  county-seat. 
It  was  evacuated  by  the  United  States  Dragoons  in  1846. 
It  is  situated  on  the  Des  Moines,  opposite  the  mouth  of 
the  Raccoon  ;  and  at  the  proposed  crossing  of  the  Rail 
road  to  Council  Bluffs.  It  is  a  thriving  town. 

Dallas  and  Boone  are  the  next  two,  and  the  last,  coun 
ties  through  wThich  the  Des  Moines  runs,  within  the  sur 
veyed  and  settled  portions  of  the  State.  They  are  but 
thinly  settled,  being  mostly  prairie,  though  people  are 
continually  but  slowly  locating  there. 

BOONVILLE,  on  the  Des  Moines,  is  the  county-seat  of  the 
former ;  ELDELLE,  on  the  Raccoon,  is  county-seat  of  the 
latter. 

Lucas  and  Warren  counties  lie  west  and  south  of  Ma 
rion,  and  are  attached  to  it  for  judicial  purposes,  being  but 
thinly  populated  as  yet. 

There  are  many  new  and  thinly  settled  counties  in  the 


BUCHANAN    AND    FAYETTE    COUNTIES.  193 

southern  and  western  portions  of  this  state,  which  the 
writer  has  not  visited  ;  and  of  which  he  can  give  but  a 
slight  and  general  account. 

Of  these,  are  Mills,  Page,  Clark,  .Kinggold,  Decatur, 
Taylor,  Wayne,  Appanuse,  and  Davis,  on  the  Missouri 
line.  They  are  said  to  be  well  watered,  but  contain  little 
timber.  In  the  northwest  and  north,  are  Story,  Marshall, 
Poweshiek,  Tama,  Benton,  Black  Hawk,  Winneshiek, 
Allomakee,  and  some  others,  which  are  similarly  charac 
terized.  Still,  many  portions  of  all  of  them  offer  hand 
some  inducements  for  colonies  and  companies  of  enter 
prising  farmers  and  mechanics  to  locate  and  make  inde 
pendent  pleasant  homes  for  themselves  and  families. 

Buchanan  and  Fayette  counties,  though  but  newly  or 
ganized,  possessing  only  about  1,000  population  together, 
and  some  70  cultivated  farms ;  and  on  account  of  their 
excellent  land,  timber,  and  water,  are  receiving  rapid  ac 
quisitions  within  their  borders. 

TRENTON,  in  Buchanan,  is  the  county-seat ;  is  well  situ 
ated  on  the  Wabsipinecon  river,  and  is  rapidly  growing. 

Delaware  is  a  new  county  lying  between  Buchanan  and 
Dubuque,  and  presents  much  the  appearance  of  the  min 
eral  lands,  being  rough  and  broken,  in  some  parts,  though 
much  of  it  is  valuable  for  farming  purposes,  with  plenty 
of  timber  and  water,  being  on  the  head  fountains  of  the 
Mokauqueta  river.  Population,  1 ,759 ;  dwellings,  338  ; 
farms,  141 ;  manufactories,  4. 

DELHI  is  the  county-seat,  situated  on  the  south  fork  of 
the  Mokauqueta  river,  a  pleasant  town,  with  fair  prospects 
of  continued  growth. 

Clayton  county  lies  on  the  Mississippi,  north  of  Du 
buque,  watered  by  Turkey  river.  It  is  a  county  of  good 
land  and  plenty  of  fine  timber.  Population,  3,873  ;  dwell 
ings,  728  ;  farms,  200  ;  manufactories,  12. 

PRAIRIE  LA  PORTE,  pleasantly  situated  on  the  Missis- 
17 


194  WESTERN    PORTRAITURE. 

sippi,  is  the  county-seat.  There  are  one  or  two  other 
flourishing  towns  in  this  county,  as  Gernayville,  Buena 
Vista,  and  Farmersburg,  with  others. 

Jackson  county  lies  on  the  river  south  of  Dubuque.  It 
contains  some  excellent  farming  lands,  and  some  broken 
mineral  lands ;  is  well  watered  and  timbered,  and  numer 
ously  settled,  presenting  many  fine  farms.  Population, 
7,210;  dwellings,  1,277;  farms,  703;  manufactories,  10. 

ANDREW  is  the  county-seat,  and  is  a  flourishing  town,  on 
Mokouqueta  river.  Bellevue  and  Charleston,  in  this  county, 
are  situated  on  the  river ;  there  are  some  other  small  towns 
in  this  county. 

Jones  county  lies  west  of  Jackson,  and  possesses  plenty 
of  timber  and  water-power,  with  good  land,  and  surpassed 
by  few  counties  in  the  state.  Population,  3,007 ;  dwell 
ings,  559  ;  farms,  225  ;  manufactories,  3. 

EDINBURG  is  the  county-seat,  and  is  a  growing  town,  in 
the  midst  of  a  fine  country.  Anamosa  is  a  fine  thriving 
town  in  this  county,  on  the  Wabsipinecon. 

Linn  county  lies  west  of  Jones.  Its  land  is  of  the  best 
quality,  well  timbered  and  watered.  Population,  5,444 ; 
dwellings,  991 ;  farms,  526 ;  manufactories,  23. 

MARION  is  the  county-seat.  It  is  a  growing  town  ;  and 
is  one  of  the  points  on  the  line  of  the  projected  Dubuque 
and  Keokuk  Railroad.  There  are  several  flourishing  towns 
in  this  county. 

Cedar  county  lies  between  Johnson  and  Scott.  It  is 
well  timbered  and  watered,  presenting  much  water-power 
for  machinery ;  and  is  pretty  well  settled.  Population, 
3,940 ;  dwellings,  686  ;  farms,  358  ;  manufactories,  4. 

TIPTON,  the  county-seat,  is  situated  on  a  handsome  prai 
rie,  and  enjoys  a  rapid  growth.  Rochester  is  another 
thriving  town  in  this  county. 

Iowa  county  lies  west  of  Johnson ;  it  is  a  new  county, 
but  its  fine  soil,  timber,  and  water  must  insure  its  growth. 


JASPER    AND    JEFFERSON    COUNTIES.  195 

Population,  822;  dwellings,  143;  farms,  70;  manufacto 
ries,  2. 

MARENGO  is  the  county-seat.  It  is  situated  in  the  north 
part  of  the  county,  on  Iowa  river ;  with  prospects  of  fair 
growth  and  business. 

Jasper  county  lies  east  of  Polk  ;  the  land  is  mostly  prai 
rie,  but  of  a  good  quality  and  well  watered.  Monroe  City, 
the  new  proposed  state  capital,  is  in  this  county,  at  the 
junction  of  two  proposed  Railroad  lines.  Population, 
1,280;  dwellings,  214 ;  farms,  150. 

NEWTON,  the  county-seat,  is  a  beautiful  and  flourishing 
town,  on  a  prairie  between  the  branches  of  Skunk  river. 

Jefferson  lies  north  of  Van  Buren ;  its  soil  is  good,  well 
timbered  and  watered,  with  ample  water-power,  and  is 
thickly  settled.  Population,  9,904;  dwellings,  1,649; 
farms,  1,067;  manufactories,  54. 

FAIRFIELD  is  the  county-seat ;  it  is  a  beautiful  and  rap 
idly  thriving  town  ;  and  is  one  of  the  points  through  which 
the  Keokuk  and  Council  Bluff  projected  Railroad  is  to 
pass ;  and  is  one  of  the  General  Land  Offices. 

Clinton  county  lies  between  Scott  and  Jackson,  on  the 
river.  It  is  a  county  of  excellent  land,  with  fair  propor 
tions  of  timber  and  prairie ;  presenting  several  fine  farms. 
Population,  2,822 ;  dwellings,  499  ;  farms,  306;  manufac 
tories,  10. 

DEWITT  is  the  county-seat. 

Washington  county  is  handsomely  diversified  by  timber 
and  prairie ;  it  has  a  rolling  surface  and  is  well  watered  by 
streams,  several  of  which  furnish  good  water-powers,  and 
are  profitably  improved.  In  1847  the  population  was 
3,500 ;  now  it  is  4,957 ;  dwellings,  856  ;  farms,  428. 

The  county-seat  is  WASHINGTON,  a  thriving  town,  situ 
ated  in  a  fine  prairie,  near  a  small  branch  of  Skunk  river. 

Henry  county  is  one  of  the  best  in  this  part  of  Iowa.  It 
contains  much  good  prairie,  a  fair  portion  of  timber,  and  is 


196  WESTERN    PORTRAITURE. 

watered  by  Skunk  river.  The  population,  in  1847,  was 
6,700;  now  it  is  8,707;  dwellings,  1,545;  farms,  947; 
manufactories,  26. 

MOUNT  PLEASANT  is  the  county-seat,  and  is  a  beautiful, 
thriving  village,  healthfully  situated  in  a  rolling  prairie. 

In  the  western,  northern,  and  southern  portions  of 
Iowa,  on  the  farther  borders  of  settlements,  where  the  pop 
ulation  is  very  sparse,  but  the  land  and  farming  facilities 
very  good,  there  have  recently — by  the  last  session  of  the 
Iowa  Legislature — been  many  new  counties  established ; 
and  with  their  fine  streams,  fresh  groves,  rich  soil,  and  the 
low  price  of  land,  which  that  region  possesses,  it  presents 
many  favorable  inducements  to  emigrants;  particularly, 
where  they  can  go  in  Companies,  as  the  land  is  yet,  most 
of  it,  to  be  bought  at  Government  prices,  $1.25  per  acre; 
and  persons  organizing  in  Colonies,  and  locating  there, 
with  reasonable  industry  and  prudence,  can  soon  make 
pleasant  and  independent  homes. 

Help  one  another,  and  make  that  the  universal  motto, 
and  every  one  will  have  a  vast  amount  of  assistance,  with 
no  opponents — each  person  will  have  all  others  for  friends, 
while  none  will  have  an  enemy.  Such  will  ever  be  the 
effect  of  the  Golden  Rule,  when  practiced  upon — wherein 
each  kindly  and  justly  regards  the  rights  and  welfare  of 
every  one — none  are  opponents,  but  the  mass  are  continual 
helpers  to  the  individual. 

RECAPITULATION. — Total  population  of  Iowa,  192,214  ; 
dwellings,  32,962 ;  farms,  14,805 ;  manufacturing  estab 
lishments,  482. 

RIVERS. — The  chief  Rivers  of  this  State  are,  the  Mis 
sissippi,  Des  Moines,  Iowa,  Keosauque,  Little  Iowa,  Iowa, 
Skunk,  Cedar,  Wabsipinecon,  and  some  others.  Of  these, 
the  Des  Moines,  Iowa,  and  Cedar,  are  navigable  in  high 
water,  to  distances  varying  from  50  to  100  miles  up. 
Most  of  them  have  abundance  of  lime  or  sand-rock,  in 


RAILROADS    TO    THE    ATLANTIC.  197 

their  banks  and  bottoms,  with  considerable  currents,  and 
generally  skirted  with  good  timber. 

MINERALS. — Lead,  iron,  zinc,  and  copper  ores,  and  stone 
coal,  are  found  in  portions  of  Iowa,  in  greater  or  less  quan 
tities  ;  but  lead  is  the  most  abundant.  ".:__ 

Mr.  Sargent  closes  his  valuable  little  book,  with  some 
suggestions  on  the  advantages  to  be  derived,  by  the  East 
ern  cities,  from  a  Railroad  communication  direct  between 
the  Atlantic  and  Mississippi.  His  remarks  are  very  just, 
and  beginning  to  be  realized.  He  says  : 

"  In  the  event  of  the  construction  of  such  an  iron  highway,  the 
provisions  and  other  productions  of  the  great  Valley  would  reach 
the  principal  Atlantic  cities  in  less  than  four  days.  Were  the  pro 
posed  Road  now  in  operation,  flour,  to  the  extent  of  three  millions 
of  barrels,  would  be  transported  on  it  in  the  coming  year.  At 
the  same  rates  as  charged  on  the  Reading  Road,  produce  could  be 
transported  on  the  proposed  highway,  from  the  Mississippi  river 
to  New  York,  at  less  than  $14  per  ton.  On  the  Upper  Mississippi 
river,  a  few  days  past,  the  highest  prices  paid  for  provisions  and 
breadstuff's,  from  Keokuck  to  Galena,  ranged  as  follows  : 

Wheat,  best  winter 50    cents  per  bushel. 

Corn 15    cents          do. 

Pork,  over  200  Ibs 2    cents  per  pound. 

Beef 2£  cents         do. 

Venison ,  haunches 3    cents         do. 

Flour $3  50  to  $4  00  per  barrel. 

"  Could  we  open  an  iron  avenue  from  the  East  to  the  West,  our 
Atlantic  markets  would,  at  all  seasons,  be  bountifully  supplied 
with  the  surplus  products  of  the  Great  West ;  and  in  a  very  few 
years  after  its  completion,  the  aggregate  tonnage  transported  on' 
this  great  thoroughfare  would  reach  the  amount  of  tonnage  now 
annually  transported  on  the  Erie  Canal. 

"  Our  fellow- citizens  of  the  East  should  liberally  contribute  to 
farther  the  construction  of  the  proposed  great  highway." 

Railroad  communication  is  now  nearly  completed  be 
tween  the  Atlantic  and  Mississippi.  From  New  York  to 
Buffalo  and  Dunkirk  there  are  even  two  lines ;  and  through 
part  of  Pennsylvania  and  Ohio  the  iron  highway  is  in 


198  WESTERN    PORTRAITURE. 

operation,  with  fair  prospects  of  being  speedily  completed. 
The  western  counties  of  Iowa  are  best  reached  by  Steam 
boats  running  on  Missouri  river.  In  ascending  the  river, 
the  first  county  reached  is  Fremont,  LYNDEN  the  county- 
seat.  Austen  is  another  fine  town.  It  is  a  county  of  good 
land,  both  prairie  and  timber.  Pop.  1,244  ;  dwellings,  222 ; 
farms,  105.  The  next  is  Mills,  of  which  I  have  not  learned 
the  county-seat.  Above  this  is  Pottawattomie  county  ;  it 
embraces  much  good  prairie  and  timber  land,  and  is  well 
watered  by  Nishnabottany  and  Boyer  rivers,  the  former 
passing  south  through  Mills  and  Fremont  counties.  There 
are  many  points  in  this  region  possessing  much  interest  as 
connected  with  Indian  Missions,  Agencies,  and  Wars,  in 
which  are  located  Forts  Crogan,  Calhoun,  and  old  Council 
Bluffs  Agency.  Population  of  Pottawattomie  county  is 
7,900;  dwellings,  1,500;  farms,  90;  manufactories,  6. 
The  county-seat  is  KANESVILLE,  a  flourishing  village,  pleas 
antly  situated  on  the  prairie,  at  the  old  site  of  the  Catho 
lic  Mission.  The  towns  and  counties  in  this  region  are  be 
ing  fast  filled  up  with  immigrants ;  and  it  is  said  to  be  a 
superior  wheat  and  stock  raising  country  ;  and  was  for 
merly  the  favorite  resort  of  buffalo  and  deer.  It  presents 
an  extensive  scope  of  most  charming  and  romantic  scenery. 

COUNCIL  BLUFFS,  and  the  Sub-Agency  are  in  this  coun 
ty  ;  there  are  good  Ferries  here,  across  the  Missouri  and 
other  rivers  near  by  to  the  westward.  This  place  posses 
ses  importance  from  being  on  the  direct  line,  and  the  most 
Teasible  crossing  of  the  Missouri  river,  for  those  great  Na 
tional  Improvements,  the  Pacific  Telegraph  and  Railroad. 
By  reference  to  the  Map,  it  will  be  seen  that  the  Great 
Route  from  Chicago,  on  the  Lakes,  crosses,  the  Mississippi 
at  Rock  Island  or  Galena,  the  Missouri  at  Council  Bluffs, 
and  thence  to  the  South  Pass,  or  other  favorable  point. 

Above  here  are  the  new  counties  Harrison  and  Manona^ 
but  thinly  settled  and  attached  to  Pottawattomie  county. 


ILLINOIS. 


WE  now  return  from  Minnesota, 
Wisconsin,  and  Iowa,  to  ILLIWIS  ; 
and,  although  I  have  previously  des 
cribed  some  portions  of  it,  in  a  gene 
ral  way  ;  I  will  now  proceed  to  pre 
sent  its  boundaries,  topography,  and 
history,  with  other  leading  features  ; 
such  is  its  counties,  towns,  population,  business,  prospects, 
and  such  local  peculiarities  and  curiosities  as  are  met  with 
in  traveling  through  the  States;  and  also,  such  distinct 
inducements  as  the  different  locations  hold  out  to  the  new 
comer ;  that  persons  of  different  tastes  and  desires  may 
see,  in  the  Portraiture  here  given,  its  various  character 
istics,  and  be  able  to  choose  to  their  liking,  without  the 
task  of  traversing  the  whole  country. 

All  of  the  States  and  Territories  here  described,  are 
connected  with  and  deeply  concerned  in  the  navigation  of 
the  Mississippi ;  and  none  more  so  than  Illinois ;  for  she 
has  a  longer  border  on  that  noble  river  than  any  other 
State.  Hence,  she  must  take  a  lively  interest  in  whatever 
tends  to  give  greater  safety  or  facilities  to  operations  upon 
its  channel. 

An  important  Convention  assembled  at  BURLINGTON, 
Iowa,  on  the  23d  of  October,  1851,  to  deliberate  upon 
measures  for  surmounting  or  removing  the  obstacles  to 
the  easy  navigation  of  the  Mississippi,  which  are  caused 


200  WESTERN    PORTRAITURE. 

by  the  Des  Moines  and  Rock  Island  Rapids ;  this  Conven 
tion  was  attended  by  Delegates  from  Minnesota,  Wiscon 
sin,  Iowa,  Illinois,  and  Missouri ;  and  their  deliberations 
will,  no  doubt,  result  beneficially  for  the  object  which 
caused  its  meeting.  The  object  is  a  deserving  one,  and 
no  doubt  will  meet  a  favorable  response  from  Congress. 

The  first  white  settlements  of  the  Lake  and  Mississippi 
country  were  the  result  of  the  adventurous  spirits  of  the 
French  explorers,  among  whom  the  most  distinguished 
were  H.  de  Soto,  Fathers  Hennepin,  La  Salle,  Marquette, 
Joliet,  and  N.  Perrat.  The  first  of  these  was  the  first  dis 
coverer  of  the  Mississippi  in  1541 ;  and  the  latter  was  the 
first  who  made  a  voyage  along  the  western  shore  of  Lake 
Michigan  in  1670.  At  an  early  period  Lake  Michigan 
was  called  Illinois  lake ;  and  Chicago  river  was  called 
Miami  s  river. 

About  the  year  1670,  La  Salle,  Hennepin,  and  others, 
made  a  voyage  from  Canada,  by  the  lakes,  to  the  Chicago 
river,  and  then  down  the  Illinois  river,  establishing  posts 
in  that  region.  La  Salle,  leaving  Hennepin  in  the  coun 
try,  returned  to  Canada;  and  in  1673,  came  again  to  the 
Mississippi,  and  established  posts  at  Cahokia  and  Kaskaskia ; 
and  for  many  years  all  of  the  settlements  in  this  country 
were  understood  to  be  in  a  prosperous  condition. 

In  1763,  upon  the  cessation  of  hostilities  between  the 
French  and  English,  the  Illinois  country  was  ceded  to  the 
British  Government.  In  1765  Captain  Sterling  was  put 
in  possession  of  the  Illinois  territory  ;  he  was  succeeded 
bv  Major  Farmer,  who  in  turn  was  succeeded  by  Colonel 
Reed  in  1766,  in  which  year  Illinois  was  annexed  to  Cana 
da  by  Quebec  Parliament.  And  after  an  oppressive  and 
unpopular  administration  of  two  years,  he  was  displaced 
by  Colonel  Wilkins,  whose  administration  was  more  satis 
factory  to  the  people. 

During  the  Revolutionary  war,  in  1778.  General  George 


ILLINOIS    HISTORY BOUNDARY DIMENSIONS.  201 

R.  Clarke  made  a  campaign  through  the  Indian  country, 
subjugating  Forts  Chartres  and  Kaskaskia,  and  other  posts 
on  the  Mississippi ;  then  returning,  he  took  old  Port  Vin 
cent,  now  Vincennes,  in  Indiana. 

This  region  being  a  portion  of  the  Northwestern  Terri 
tory,  was  principally  under  the  jurisdiction  of  Virginia, 
whose  legislature,  in  1778,  organized  a  large  portion  of 
what  is  now  the  State  of  Illinois,  into  the  County  of  Illi 
nois,  and  appointed  a  magistrate  over  it,  to  conduct  its 
minor  judicial  affairs. 

In  1803,  the  Territory  of  Indiana  was  constructed,  of 
which  Illinois  was  a  portion.  In  1809  Illinois  was  formed 
into  a  Territory,  and  remained  till  December,  1818,  when 
it  became  an  independent  State ;  from  which  time  it  pros 
pered  but  slowly  till  after  the  Indian  war. 

Some  of  the  battles'  and  massacres  which  occurred  in 
this  state  during  the  war  of  1812,  and  the  Black  Hawk 
war,  present  adventures  and  scenes  of  as  thrilling  interest 
as  any  other  part  of  the  country. 

By  various  treaties,  the  different  tribes  of  Indians  have 
ceded  all  their  lands  to  the  whites,  and  they  have  enjoyed 
almost  entire  freedom  from  Indian  troubles  for  a  long  pe 
riod,  except  during  the  Black  Hawk  war  of  1832. 

The  boundaries  of  Illinois  are  as  follows,  as  laid  down 
in  Darby's  Gazetteer : 

"  Illinois  lies  between  Lake  Michigan,  the  Wabash,  Ohio,  and 
Mississippi  rivers.  It  has  a  boundary  on  N.  latitude,  42°  30',  210 
miles  ;  along  Lake  Michigan  and  State  of  Indiana,  Indiana  to  Wa 
bash  river,  216  ;  down  the  Wabash  to  the  junction  with  the  Ohio, 
150;  down  the  Ohio  to  its  junction  with  the  Mississippi,  130; 
thence  up  the  Mississippi  to  the  northwest  angle  of  the  state,  500 ; 
having  an  outline  of  1,206  miles. 

Area,  58,900  square  miles — equal  to  35,696,000  acres.  Extreme 
S.,  N.  latitude,  37°.  Extreme  N.,  N.  latitude,  42"  30'.  Greatest 
length  from  the  junction  of  Ohio  and  Mississippi  to  N.  latitude  42° 
— 380  miles ;  mean  width,  150  miles. 


202  WESTERN    PORTRAITURE. 

"  Illinois  is  the  fourth  State  of  the  Union,  in  respect  to  extent 
of  territory,  and  the  first  in  point  of  fertility  of  soil.  Excepting 
Georgia,  it  fs  also  the  state  whose  climate  and  seasons  differ  most 
at  the  north  and  south  extremities.  Extending  through  5«  of  lati 
tude,  this  state  embraces  the  greatest  extent  N.  and  S.  of  any  sec 
tion  of  the  U.  S.,  New  York  only  reaching  through  4^,  and  Geor 
gia  about  an  equal  distance.  The  latter  is  indebted  to  the  greater 
inequality  of  its  surface  for  the  superior  variety  of  its  climate. 

"Illinois  is  a  country  of  very  little  inequality  of  surface,  com 
pared  with  its  great  extent.  The  lower  or  southern  part  is  rolling 
rather  than  hilly;  and  not  one  eminence  in  the  state,  it  is  proba 
ble,  would  reach  600  feet  above  the  common  level. 

"  In  point  of  soil,  Illinois  admits  a  similar  classification  with 
Ohio  and  Indiana ;  though  the  former  has  more  rich  prairie  than 
the  two  latter.  The  state  may  be  considered  as  rolling  in  its 
southern  and  western,  and  level  in  its  eastern  and  northeastern 
sections. 

"It  has  been  determined  by  repeated  experiments  that  loaded 
boats  of  considerable  size  can  pass  from  the  Mississippi  through 
Illinois,  into  the  Canadian  sea,  and  vice  versa.  Very  little  current 
is  found  in  the  small  and  very  short  streams  which  interlock  with, 
the  sources  of  the  Illinois,  and  flow  into  the  southern  extremity  of 
Lake  Michigan ;  therefore,  the  sources  of  Illinois  cannot  be  much 
above  the  surface  of  that  Lake.  Fifteen  or  twenty  feet  is  as  much 
as  the  data  before  us  will  justify ;  of  course,  the  whole  volume  of 
Illinois  river,  from  a  point  opposite  the  head  of  Chicago  river,  in  a 
distance  following  the  windings  of  upward  of  400  miles,  does  not 
fall  60  feet. 

"  The  face  of  the  globe  may  in  vain  be  examined  to  find  any 
other  spot,  except  the  sources  of  Orinoco  and  the  Ilio  Negro,  in 
South  America,  where  natural  facility  to  internal  communication 
by  water  is  equal  to  that  we  have  this  moment  surveyed.  If  we 
glance  an  eye  over  the  immense  regions  thus  connected ;  if  we  re 
gard  the  fertility  of  soil,  the  multiplicity  of  product  which  charac 
terize  these  regions  ;  and  if  we  combine  those  advantages  afforded 
by  nature  with  the  moral  energy  of  the  free  and  active  people 
which  are  spreading  their  increasing  millions  over  its  surface, 
what  a  vista  through  the  darkness  of  future  time  opens !  The 
view  is  indeed  almost  too  much  for  the  faculties  of  man.  We  see 
arts,  science,  industry,  virtue,  and  social  happiness,  already  in 
creasing  in  those  countries  beyond  what  the  most  inflated  fancy 
would  have  dared  to  have  hoped  thirty  or  forty  years  ago." 


NAME CENSUS PROGRESS.  203 

At  the  time  of  the  late  war  with  Great  Britain,  loaded 
boats,  with  men  and  munitions,  passed  out  of  Lake  Michi 
gan,  through  Chicago  river  into  the  O'Plain,  thence  to  the 
Illinois  and  Mississippi. 

And  now,  by  the  Canal,  with  a  single  lock-lift,  at  Bridge 
port,  four  miles  from  Chicago,  an  immense  commerce  is 
carried  on  between  Lake  Michigan  and  the  Southern 
rivers. 

The  name  which  this  state  bears,  early  and  for  a  long 
period,  belonged  to  all  the  Northwestern  Territory.  It 
was  derived  from  the  Illini  or  Illinois,  a  tribe  of  Indians 
which  appear  to  have  possessed  the  country  situated  on 
both  banks  of  the  river  of  that  name.  They  were  noted 
for  their  hospitality  and  generosity  to  strangers,  and 
their  bravery  and  skill  in  war  against  their  foes.  Father 
Hennepin  informs  us  that  the  name,  in  the  native  lan 
guage,  signifies  a  full-grown,  proper  man ;  and  no  tribe, 
certainly,  were  superior  to  them,  in  all  noble  traits  found 
at  all  among  Indians. 

Illinois  became  a  state  in  1818,  when  it  framed  and 
adopted  its  constitution,  and  was  received  into  the  Union 
as  the  twenty-second  State.  The  leading  peculiarity  in 
the  Constitution  was  to  prohibit  slavery,  which  had  before 
existed  in  the  Territory. 

The  population  of  Illinois  in  1820,  was  55,211;  in 
1830,  it  was  157,455  ;  in  1840,  it  was  476,183;  in  1850, 
it  was  855,884 ;  and  in  1851,  it  is  over  one  million. 

Some  hints  in  regard  to  the  course  to  be  pursued  by 
immigrants  in  the  West  may  not  be  without  benefit  to 
those  persons. 

Farmers  from  the  Older  States,  where  long  cultivation 
has  furnished  them  with  every  convenience  and  luxury, 
might  find  it  somewhat  troublesome  to  submit  to  the 
plainer  fare  and  occasional  privations  incident  upon  life  in 
a  New  Country.  But  to  avoid  this,  as  far  as  possible,  it 


204  WESTERN    PORTRAITURE. 

will  be  well  for  the  emigrant  to  make  up  his  mind  philo 
sophically  in  the  start,  to  cheerfully  undergo  these  things, 
throw  aside  some  of  his  former  habits,  forget  some  of  his 
former  easy  blessings,  and  thus  be  prepared  the  better  to 
accommodate  himself  to  the  new  state  of  things  which  he 
is  about  to  experience.  I  copy  the  following  very  truthful 
delineation  of  the  Western  people,  with  some  of  their  so 
cial  feelings,  from  an  early  Gazetteer  of  Illinois,  by  Mr. 
PECK: 

"  No  emigrant  need  deceive  himself  with  the  notion  that  he  can 
find  a  spot  that  will  combine  all  the  advantages,  and  none  of  the 
disadvantages  of  the  country. 

"  All  positions  will  present  some  desirable  and  superior  features 
— some  of  the  richest  and  finest  inducements — while  something  ob 
jectionable  will  appear,  and  some  trifle  be  wanting.  Yet,  on  the 
whole,  almost  every  spot  is  more  inviting,  for  numerous  reasons, 
than  the  positions  which  have  been  left  in  the  Older  State. 

"  Let  a  man  and  family  go  into  any  of  the  frontier  settlements, 
get  a  shelter,  or  even  camp  out ;  call  on  the  people  to  aid  him  on 
the  start,  and  in  three  days'  time  he  will  have  a  comfortable  cabin, 
and  become  fully  identified  as  a  Settler.  No  matter  how  poor  he 
may  be,  or  how  much  a  stranger ;  if  he  makes  no  apologies,  does 
not  show  a  niggardly  spirit  by  contending  about  trifles  ;  and  espe 
cially  if  he  does  not  begin  to  dole  out  complaints  about  the  coun 
try,  and  the  manners  of  the  people,  and  tell  them  of  the  difference 
and  superiority  of  these  things  in  the  place  whence  he  came,  he 
will  be  received  with  blunt,  unaffected  hospitality.  But  if  a  man 
begin  by  affecting  superior  intelligence  and  virtue,  and  catechising 
the  people  for  their  habits  of  rough  simplicity,  he  may  expect  to  be 
marked,  shunned,  and  ridiculed  with  some  term  of  reproach. 

"  A  principal  characteristic  of  the  Western  population  is  a  real 
unaffected  hospitality — a  plain  spirit  of  accommodation — they  will 
make  every  stranger  welcome,  if  he  will  accept  of  it  in  their  way. 
He  must  make  no  complaint,  throw  out  no  insinuations,  and  mani 
fest  an  equal  readiness  to  be  frank  and  hospitable  in  return.  En 
ter  what  house  or  cabin  you  may,  if  it  is  time  of  meals,  you  are 
invited  to  share  a  portion ;  but  you  must  eat  what  is  set  before 
you,  making  no  invidious  comparisons." 

Nothing  is  truer  in  the  West,  than  the  homely  phrase, 


SALUBRITY PRESERVATION    OF    HEALTH.  205 

"  the  latch-string  always  hangs  out,"  and  every  one  is  wel 
come  to  enter,  who  is  willing  to  receive  cheerfully. 
Says  Mr.  FLINT,  an  early  pioneer  in  the  West : 

"  The  most  affectionate  counsel  we  could  give  an  immigrant, 
after  an  acquaintance  with  all  the  districts  of  the  Western  Country 
of  sixteen  years,  is  that  he  regard  the  salubrity  of  a  spot  selected, 
as  of  more  importance  than  fertility,  or  nearness  to  market. 

"That  he  depend  for  health,  on  temperance,  moderation  in  all 
things,  a  careful  conformity  in  food  and  dress  to  circumstances  and 
the  climate ;  and  particularly,  let  him  observe  a  rigid  and  undevi- 
ating  abstinence  from  that  murderous  western  poison,  whiskey, 
which  may  be  pronounced  the  prevalent  miasm  of  the  country. 
Let  every  immigrant  learn  the  art  and  provide  the  materials  to 
make  good  beer.  Let  him  also,  during  the  season  of  acclimation, 
especially  in  the  sultry  months,  take  medicine  by  way  of  preven 
tion,  twice  or  thrice,  with  abstinence  from  labor  a  day  or  two 
afterward.  Let  him  have  a  Bible  for  a  constant  counselor,  and  a 
few  good  books  for  instruction  and  amusement.  Let  him  have  the 
dignity  and  good  sense  to  train  his  family  religiously  and  honestly. 

"  Let  him  cultivate  a  garden  and  choice  fruit,  as  well  as  a  fine 
orchard.  Let  him  keep  bees,  for  their  management  unites  pleasure 
and  profit.  Let  him  prepare  for  silk-making  on  a  small  and  grad 
ual  scale.  Let  him  cultivate  grapes  by  way  of  experiment.  Let 
him  banish  unreal  wants,  and  learn  the  master  secret  of  self- 
possession,  and  be  content  with  such  things  as  he  has,  aware  that 
every  position  in  life  has  advantages  and  trials.  Let  him  assure 
himself  that  if  an  independent  farmer  cannot  be  happy,  no  man  can. 
Let  him  magnify  his  calling,  respect  himself,  envy  no  one,  and 
raise  to  the  Author  of  all  good  constant  aspirations  of  thankfulness 
as  he  eats  the  bread  of  peace  and  privacy." 

Emigrants  to  any  of  the  Western  States,  wrill  do  well  to 
heed  carefully  the  above  wise  suggestions,  by  one  who 
had  long  and  intimate  experience  in  the  West. 

As  a  pleasant  little  prelude  in  the  general  tenor  of  this 
work,  I  will  here  present  one  of  the  happy  features  which 
characterize  some  of  the  Western  prairie  homes;  and 
which  exhibits  some  of  the  lovely  but  unexpensive  embel 
lishments  which  are  made  to  beam  around  them  by  the 
18 


206  WESTERN    PORTRAITURE. 

attention  bestowed  upon  the  gardens  by  the  girls,  whose 
healths,  beauty,  and  delights,  are  greatly  enhanced  by  so 
doing.  It  is  not  uncommon  there,  nor  is  it  considered  a 
lack  of  good  taste  or  true  refinement,  to  see  blooming  girls 
dressing  the  flowers,  pruning  the  shrubbery,  and  culturing 
the  garden;  they  are  all  the  happier  and  more  charming 
for  it ;  and  the  garden  is  among  the  objects  to  which  they 
proudly  call  the  attention  of  their  sweethearts  upon  their 
afternoon  visits.  The  following  merry  extract  of  a  letter 
from  a  little  Western  girl  to  her  brother  at  the  East,  will 
give  a  finer  idea  of  the  subject  than  any  description  of  mine 
will  convey : 

"  And  now,  as  I  have  nothing  more  very  important  to 
write  about,  let  me  give  you  a  short  chapter  on  my  flower- 
garden,  as  I  came  in  a  little  while  ago  from  dressing  it  and 
picking  a  sisterly  boquette  for  you.  Those  grand  Lady 
Slippers  you  so  much  admired  last  summer,  seem  to  have 
grown  very  vain  from  the  many  fine  compliments  you  lav 
ished  upon  them,  for  they  have  come  out  in  bran-new 
dresses,  of  different  hues, '  the  gayest  of  the  gay,'  all  seem 
ing  to  vie  with  each  other  in  richness  and  colors  of  dress. 
But  just  let  me  introduce  them  to  you  in  rhymes,  along 
with  their  neighbors  : 

The  first  is  Miss  Lovelawn,  as  sweet  as  a  rose, 
Her  white  satin  slippers  just  hiding  her  toes ; 
And  the  next  is  Miss  Pink,  so  sparkling  and  free, 
With  her  sister  Carnation,  as  charming  as  she; 
Dahlias,  scarlet  and  purple,  crimson  and  blue, 
Bright  sisters  and  cousins  of  every  hue  ; 
Each  looking  as  lovely  as  lovely  can  be, 
Giving  breakfasts  and  suppers  to  bird  and  to  bee ;      , 
Sweet  Violets  of  purple,  yellow  and  blue, 
Which  teach  the  thoughts  of  modesty  ever  true — 
But  this  scratch  of  my  pen  's  too  homely,  I  ween, 
To  present  them  to  you  as  they'd  wish  to  be  seen. 

And  then  there  are  their  neighbors,  the  Morning  Glories 
and  Four-o'clocks,  at  their  own  fashionable  hours,  looking 
as  pretty  as  any  ;  while  the  humming-birds  pay  their  re- 


HORSEBACK    RIDING.  207 

spects  just  as  graciously  to  Sweet-Williams,  Mullen  Pinks, 
and  Marigolds,  as  to  the  others;  then  there  stand  the 
Tiger  Lilies,  too,  in  their  dignity  and  beauty,  nodding 
gracefully  to  passers-by ;  beside  the  heaps  of  wild,  sweet 
Prairie  Flowers,  all  casting  up  their  bright  little  eyes  to 
us  as  we  gaze  on  them ;  but  I  fear  you'll  begin  to  get  tired 
of  my  light  nonsense ;  so,  with  a  kiss  and  good  morning, 
I'll  hasten  off  to  school." 

Such  is  one  among  the  many  pleasant  features  of  youth 
ful  prairie  life,  which  spring  up  into  shining  existence,  un 
der  the  hand  of  tasteful,  independent,  cheerful  industry. 

Another  healthful  and  exhilarating  amusement  much  in 
dulged  in  by  the  ladies  of  the  prairie  country,  is  that  of 
riding  on  horseback ;  and  the  skill  of  many  of  our  femi 
nine  equestrians  is  masterly,  and  would  meet  the  delighted 
admiration  of  the  gallant  knights  even  of  the  chivalric 
feudal  days,  or  the  exacting  criticism  of  Napoleon ;  and, 
surely,  often  does  receive  the  cooperative  approval  of  the 
joyous  knights  of  their  own  neighborhood.  Sometimes 
the  ladies  may  be  seen  in  merry  adventurous  troops,  unat 
tended  by  the  masculines,  bounding  away  with  wild  joy 
over  the  green  fields,  their  glittering  ringlets,  and  rich 
sashes,  and  gay  plumes,  waving  and  flying  in  the  breeze, 
while  the  bright  mane  of  their  proud  steeds  is  tossed  lightly 
in  air  over  their  gracefully  curbed  necks,  as  if  they  verily 
appreciated  the  charming  burdens  they  bore  aw'ay  with 
such  spirit  and  strength,  seeming  scarcely  to  touch  the 
ground  in  their  elastic  gallop. 

It  is  a  proud,  a  glorious  sight,  thus  to  see  a  beautiful  girl 
sit  well  and  manage  dexterously,  in  proper  apparel,  a 
noble  horse,  as  he  dashes  away  over  the  fields,  or  through 
the  lawns ;  a  more  charming  object  is  seldom  looked  at. 
No  wonder  that  GRACE  GREENWOOD  evinced  such  glowing 
poetic  inspiration,  when  she  wrote  that  admirable  poem 
on  horseback-riding.  Following  are  several  detached  lines 


208  WESTERN     PORTRAITURE. 

extracted  from  her  poem  on  that  subject.    When  the  heart 
is  sad,  or  the  spirits  flag,  she  says : 

"  Then  bring  me,  oh,  bring  me  my  gallant  young  steed, 
With  his  high  arched  neck,  and  his  nostrils  spread  wide, 
His  eye  full  of  fire,  and  his  step  full  of  pride  ; 
As  I  spring  to  his  back,  as  I  seize  the  strong  rein, 
The  strength  of  my  spirit  returneth  again. 


On,  on  speeds  my  courser,  scarce  printing  the  sod, 
Scarce  crushing  a  daisy  to  mark  where  he  trod. 
What  a  wild  thought  of  triumph,  that  this  girlish  hand, 
Such  a  steed  in  the  might  of  his  strength  may  command. 


;  What  a  glorious  creature  ;  ah,  glance  at  him  now, 
As  I  check  Htm  awhile  on  this  green  hillock's  brow 
How  he  tosses  his  mane  with  a  shrill  joyous  neigh 
And  paws  the  firm  earth  in  hia  proud  stately  play  ; 
Ho,  a  ditch  !  shall  we  pause  ?  no,  the  bold  leap  we  will  dare 
Like  a  swift  winged  arrow  we  rush  through  the  air. 


"  Oh,  not  all  the  pleasure  that  poets  may  praise, 
Not  the  wildering  waltz  in  the  ball-room's  blaze 
Can  the  wild  thrilling  joy  exceed 
Of  a  fearless  leap  on  a  fiery  steed." 

From  a  work  entitled,  "Illinois  in  1837,"  I  make  the 
following  extracts  in  regard  to  boundaries,  face  of  the 
country,  etc. : 

"  The  Act  of  Congress  admitting  this  State  into  the  Union  pre 
scribes  the  boundaries  as  follows  :  Beginning  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Wabash  river,  thence  up  the  middle  of  the  main  channel  thereof  to 
the  point  where  a  line  drawn  due  north  of  Vincennes  last  crosses 
that  stream,  thence  due  north  to  the  northwest  corner  of  the  State 
of  Indiana,  thence  east  with  the  boundary  line  of  the  same  state 
to  the  middle  of  Lake  Michigan,  thence  due  north  along  the 
middle  of  said  lake  to  north  latitude  40°  30',  thence  west  to  the 
middle  of  the  Mississippi  river,  thence  down  the  middle  of  the  main 
channel  thereof  to  the  mouth  of  the  Ohio  river,  thence  up  the  lat 
ter  stream  along  its  northern  or  right  shore  to  the  place  of  begin 
ning.  The  outline  of  the  state  is  in  extent  about  1,160  miles,  the 
whole  of  which,  except  305  miles,  is  formed  by  navigable  lakes  and 
rivers. 


TOPOGRAPHY ELEVATION.  209 

"  As  a  physical  section,  Illinois  occupies  the  lower  part  of  that 
inclined  plane  of  which  Lake  Michigan  and  both  its  shores  are  tho 
higher  sections,  and  which  is  extended  into  and  embraces  the  much 
greater  part  of  Indiana.  Down  this  plane,  in  a  very  nearly  south 
western  direction,  flow  the  Wabash  and  its  confluents,  the  Kaskas- 
kia,  the  Illinois  and  its  confluents,  and  the  Rock  and  Wisconsin 
rivers.  The  lowest  section  of  the  plane  is  also  the  extreme  south 
ern  angle  of  Illinois,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Ohio  river,  about  340 
feet  above  tide-water,  in  the  Gulf  of  Mexico.  Though  the  State  of 
Illinois  does  contain  some  low  hilly  sections,  as  a  whole,  it  may 
be  regarded  as  a  gently  inclining  plane  in  the  direction  of  its 
rivers,  as  already  indicated.  Without  including  minute  parts,  the 
extreme  arable  elevation  may  be  safely  stated  at  800  feet  above 
tide-water,  and  the  mean  hight  at  550. 

"  '  In  some  former  period,'  observes  Mr.  Schoolcraft,  '  there  has 
been  an  obstruction  in  the  channel  of  the  Mississippi,  at  or  near 
Grand  Tower,  producing  a  stagnation  of  the  current  at  an  elevation 
of  about  130  feet  above  the  present  ordinary  water-mark.  This 
appears  evident  from  the  general  elevation  and  direction  of  the 
hills,  which  for  several  hundred  miles  above  are  separated  by  a 
valley  from  20  to  25  miles  wide,  that  deeply  embosoms  the  current 
of  the  Mississippi.' 

"  Wherever  these  hills  exhibit  rocky  and  abrupt  fronts,  a  series 
of  waterlines  are  distinctly  visible,  and  preserve  a  remarkable  pa 
rallelism  uniformly  presenting  their  greatest  depression  toward 
the  sources  of  the  river;  and,  at  Grand  Tower,  these  water-lines 
are  elevated  about  one  hundred  feet  above  the  summit  of  the  stra 
tum  in  which  petrifactions  of  the  madrepora  and  various  fossil  or 
ganic  remnins  are  deposited.  Here  the  rocks  of  dark-colored 
limestone,  which  pervade  the  country  to  a  great  extent,  by  their 
projections  toward  each  other,  indicate  that  they  have,  at  a  remote 
period,  been  disunited,  if  not  by  some  convulsion  of  nature,  by  the 
incessant  action  of  the  water  upon  a  secondary  formation,  and  that 
a  passage  has  been  effected  through  them,  giving  vent  to  the  stag 
nant  waters  on  the  prairie  lands  above,  and  opening  for  the  Missis 
sippi  its  present  channel. 

"  Next  to  Louisiana  and  Delaware,  Illinois  is  the  most  level 
State  in  the  Union.  A  small  tract  in  the  southern  part  of  the 
state  is  hilly,  and  the  northern  portion  is  also  somewhat  broken. 
There  are  likewise  considerable  elevations  along  the  Illinois  river, 
and  the  bluffs  of  the  Mississippi  in  some  places  might  pass  almost 
for  mountains.  But  by  far  the  greater  proportion  of  the  state  is 


210  WESTERN    PORTRAITURE. 

either  distributed  in  vast  plains,  or  in  barrens,  that  are  gently 
rolling  like  the  waves  of  the  sea  after  a  storm." 

"  GRAND  PRAIRIE. — The  largest  prairie  in  Illinois  is  denomi 
nated  the  Grand  Prairie.  Under  this  general  name  is  embraced 
the  country  lying  between  the  waters  falling  into  the  Mississippi, 
and  those  which  enter  the  W abash  rivers.  It  does  not  consist  of 
one  vast  tract,  but  is  made  up  of  continuous  tracts  with  points  of 
timber  projecting  inward,  and  long  arms  of  prairie  extending  be 
tween.  The  southern  points  of  the  Grand  Prairie  are  formed  in 
Jackson  county,  and  extend  in  a  northeastern  course,  varying  in 
width  from  one  to  twelve  miles  through  Perry,  Washington,  Jeffer 
son,  Marion,  Fayette,  Effingham,  Coles,  Champaign,  and  Iroquois 
counties,  where  it  becomes  connected  with  the  prairies  that  project 
eastward  from  the  Illinois  river.  A  large  arm  lies  in  Marion 
county,  between  the  waters  of  Crooked  creek  and  the  east  fork  of 
the  Kaskaskia  river,  where  the  Vincennes  road  passes  through. 
This  part  alone  is  frequently  called  the  Grand  Prairie. 

"  Much  the  largest  part  of  the  Grand  Prairie  is  gently  undula 
ting,  rich,  and  fertile  land;  but  of  the  southern  portion,  consider 
able  tracts  are  flat,  and  of  rather  inferior  soil.  No  insurmount 
able  obstacle  exists  to  its  future  population.  No  portion  of  it  is 
more  than  six  or  eight  miles  distant  from  timber;  and  coal  in 
abundance  is  found  in  most  parts.  Those  who  have  witnessed  the 
changes  pr(.  ;Iuced  upon  a  prairie  surface  within  twenty  or  thirty 
years,  consider  these  extensive  prairies  as  offering  no  serious  im 
pediment  to  the  future  growth  of  the  state. 

"  Dr.  BECK,  in  his  Gazetteer  of  Missouri,  published  in  1823, 
describes  the  uplands  of  St.  Louis  county  as  generally  prairie ; 
but  almost  all  of  that  tract  of  country  thus  described  is  now  cov 
ered  with  a  young  growth  of  fine  thrifty  timber,  and  it  would  be 
difficult  to  find  an  acre  of  prairie  in  the  county.  This  important 
change  has  been  produced  by  keeping  the  fires  out  of  the  prairies. 

"  The  first  improvements  are  usually  made  on  that  part  of  the 
prairie  which  adjoins  the  timber ;  and  thus  we  may  see,  at  the 
commencement,  a  range  of  farms  circumscribing  the  entire  prairie. 
The  burning  of  the  prairies  is  then  stopped  through  the  whole  dis 
tance  of  the  circuit  in  the  neighborhood  of  these  farms,  to  prevent 
injury  to  the  fences  and  other  improvements.  This  is  done  by 
plowing  two  or  three  furrows  all  round  the  settlement.  In  a 
short  time  the  timber  springs  up  spontaneously  on  all  the  parts 
not  burned,  and  the  groves  and  forests  commence  a  gradual  en 
croachment  on  the  adjacent  prairies ;  by-and-by  you  will  see 


INTERNAL    IMPROVEMENTS.  211 

another  tier  of  farms  springing  up  on  the  outside  of  the  first,  and 
farther  out  on  the  prairie ;  and  thus  farm  succeeds  farm,  as  the 
timber  grows  up,  until  the  entire  prairie  is  occupied." 

Some  of  these  prairies  are  so  broad,  and  portions  of 
them  so  far  from  timber,  that  it  is  rather  a  laborious  task 
for  persons  of  limited  means  and  small  help  to  commence 
a  farm  in  their  midst.  In  such  cases  union  of  effort,  in 
colonies,  will  be  found  advantageous. 

In  1836-7  to  1840  Illinois  projected  extensive  and  ex 
travagant  schemes  of  Railroads  and  Canals,  much  beyond 
her  ability  to  perfect;  consequently,  there  followed  the 
general  smash  and  confusion  of  a  universal  suspension. 

She  has  again  entered  upon  a  still  more  magnificent 
scheme  of  Railroad  building,  extending  many  important 
lines  through  various  parts  of  the  State ;  but  now  under 
very  different  circumstances.  She  has  completed  her 
great  Canal — one  of  the  most  splendid  works  in  the  Union 
— and  it  is  doing  an  immense  and  increasing  business,  the 
receipt  of  tolls  this  year  largely  exceeding  the  receipts 
for  any  previous  year.  Portions  of  several  of  her  Rail 
roads  are  also  completed,  and  in  successful,  profitable 
operation. 

These  things  have  established  a  sound  and  healthy  con 
fidence,  among  capitalists,  in  her  resources  and  facilities, 
to  an  extent  that  Eastern  Capitalists  now  freely  invest 
their  surplus  funds  in  her  lines,  which  insures  their  speedy 
completion;  the  productiveness  of  Agricultural  opera 
tions  being  proved  ample  t6  furnish  them  with  profitable 
employment ;  the  State  being  now  numerously  settled-up 
and  cultivated  by  industrious,  enterprising  farmers,  who 
annually  raise  millions  of  produce  for  export  east  and 
south.  These  facts,  with  others,  afford  fair  guarantee  that 
suspension  will  not  again  take  place,  as  in  past  times. 

And  what  is  here  said  of  Illinois,  is  also  true  in  regard 
to  Wisconsin  and  Iowas  to  a  considerable  extent. 


212  WESTERN    PORTRAITURE. 

To  give  an  idea  of  the  extent  and  location  of  projected 
Railroads  in  Illinois ;  some  of  which  are  constructed, 
others  under  contract  for  speedy  completion,  and  others 
still  with  the  stocks  subscribed  and  the  works  in  charge 
of  engineers,  who  are  busily  running  out  the  routes. 

The  Galena  and  Chicago  Union  Railroad  is  designed  to 
connect  the  Mississippi  river  with  Lake  Michigan ;  already 
some  sixty  miles  of  it  is  in  operation,  west  from  Chicago 
to  MARENGO.  By  December  it  will  be  completed  to  BEL- 
VIDERE,  Boone  county  ;  and  in  January  following,  it  is  to 
be  in  operation  to  KOCKFORD,  Winnebago  county.  At 
this  point  it  will  be  intersected  by  the  Union  Rock  River 
Railroad;  from  BELOIT  and  other  towns  in  the  Upper 
Rock  river  country,  in  Wisconsin,  and  to  run  south  down 
the  river.  These  lines  will  furnish  a  favorable  medium 
of  transportation  for  a  wide,  fertile,  Farming  region,  be 
side  a  rich  portion  of  the  mineral  ]ancls ;  as  the  Road  will 
be  completed  during  the  year,  through  FREEPORT,  Stephen- 
son  county  to  GALENA,  Jo  Daviess  county.  Between 
CHICAGO  and  ELGIN,  branches  switch  off  to  AURORA,  ST. 
CHARLES,  and  BATAVIA,  towns  on  Fox  river.  This  line 
and  its  branches  make  about  200  miles. 

The  Sangamon  and  Morgan  Railroad  commences  at 
NAPLES,  on  the  Illinois  river  in  Scott  county,  and  runs 
east  through  JACKSONVILLE  in  Morgan  county,  to  SPRING 
FIELD  in  Sangamon  county,  and  to  be  continued  still  on 
eastward. 

The  Illinois  Central  Railroad  is  the  longest  and  most 
important  line  in  Illinois ;  and  some  five  corps  of  engi 
neers  are  now  engaged  in  exploring  the  routes  for  the 
main  trunk  and  branches.  It  is  to  run  through  nearly  the 
entire  length  of  the  State,  from  CAIRO  in  the  southern  ex 
tremity,  to  CHICAGO  on  Lake  Michigan.  It  is  to  have  two 
branches ;  one,  running  to  GALENA,  for  the  convenience 
of  the  northwestern  part  of  the  state,  lying  between  the 


INTERNAL    IMPROVEMENTS.  213 

Mississippi  and  Illinois  rivers  ;  the  other  running  through 
the  northeastern  portion  of  the  state,  to  accommodate  that 
part  of  the  state  lying  between  the  Wabash  and  Illinois 
rivers. 

This  line  is  also  to  be  extended  southward,  to  MOBILE, 
in  Alabama,  on  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  by  the  Southern 
States. 

The  whole  route,  as  contemplated'  by  Congress,  in 
making  the  grant  of  land  for  its  construction,  is  denomi 
nated  The  Chicago  and  Mobile,  Railroad.  It  passes  through 
the  center  of  the  State  of  Illinois  by  the  route  already 
surveyed,  and  from  which  there  will  not  be  any  material 
deviation  by  the  farther  surveys  now  being  made.  It  will 
cross  the  Illinois  river  at  La  Salle  and  Peru ;  and  the 
Ohio  at  Cairo.  By  the  conditions  of  the  Charter  granted 
to  a  Company  of  capitalists,  this  road  must  be  constructed 
to  Cairo  within  the  next  six  years.  It  will  involve  an  ex 
penditure  of  between  sixteen  and  twenty  millions  of  dol 
lars.  Through  the  exertion  of  Judge  Douglas,  Senator 
Breese,  and  others,  who  are  resident  in  Illinois,  an  appro 
priation  of  alternate  sections  of  the  public  land  along  the 
line  of  the  road  was  obtained  -  from  the  General  Govern 
ment,  wrhich  insures  its  construction.  Its  eastern  branch 
will  bring  into  cultivation  a  body  of  land  in  the  interior, 
at  present  removed  from  market,  containing  many  miles 
hitherto  unsettled.  Such,  too,  must  be  the  case  in  the 
counties  along  the  Wabash  river,  dividing  Illinois  from 
Indiana.  The  Road  must  transfer  much  of  the  travel  and 
business  from  the  Mississippi  to  the  Central  parts  of  this 
State,  making  Illinois  the  center,  in  many  respects,  of  the 
Great  Valley,  having  within  its  borders  the  principal  artery 
of  communication  North  and  South. 

That  portion  of  this  long  line  which  lies  in  Illinois  is 
termed  the  "  State  Central  Road,"  from  Cairo  to  Chicago, 
Galena,  and  Dubuque. 


214  WESTERN    PORTRAITURE. 

The  title  to  the  act  of  Congress  making  the  grant  of 
land,  reads : 

"  '  An  Act  granting  the  right  of  way  and  making  a  grant  of  land 
to  the  States  of  Illinois,  Mississippi,  and  Alabama,  in  aid  of  the 
construction  of  a  Railroad  from  Chicago  to  Mobile,'  passed  Sep 
tember  20,  1850." 

After  Congress  had  made  this  munificent  donation,  or 
rather  appropriation,  of  land,  to  those  States,  the  Illinois 
Legislature  passed  an  act,  chartering  a  Company,  and 
transferred  to  it  these  lands  to  construct  the  Road.  Sen 
ator  Douglas,  in  a  letter  in  relation  to  this  matter,  says : 

"  This  Charter  transfers  to  the  Central  Railroad  Company  all 
the  lands  which  the  State  of  Illinois  received  from  the  United 
States  in  pursuance  of  that  act  of  Congress,  and  imposes  upon  the 
Company  all  the  obligations  which  our  State  assumed  in  consider 
ation  of  that  grant  of  land,  which  obligations  the  Company  pledged 
itself  by  the  acceptance  of  the  Charter  faithfully  to  perform. 

"  The  act  of  Congress  grants  to  the  State  of  Illinois  a  quantity 
of  land  equal  the  alternate  section  for  six  miles  on  each  side  of 
said  Road  and  branches,  and  at  the  same  time  increases  the  price 
of  the  other  alternate  sections  to  two  dollars  and  fifty  cents  per 
acre,  so  that  the  United  States  would  receive  for  the  remaining 
half  of  the  lands  as  much  as  they  would  for  the  whole.  It  was  the 
enhancement  of  the  value  of  the  public  lands  upon  each  side  of 
the  Road  that  constituted  the  inducement  to  get  the  grant.  It 
was  upon  this  principle  that  the  measure  was  successfully  vindi 
cated  and  sustained  by  its  friends.  The  lands  had  been  in  market 
upon  an  average  of  twenty  odd  years,  at  one  dollar  and  a  quarter 
per  acre,  and  had  failed  to  find  purchasers ;  not  because  the  lands 
were  not  rich  and  fertile,  but  in  consequence  of  their  remoteness 
from  markets,  and  the  absence  of  timber.  The  Railroad  would 
supply  both  of  these  deficiencies,  and  thus'  render  desirable  that 
which  was  before  comparatively  valueless." 

The  third  clause  of  the  fifteenth  section  thus  defines  the 
routes  which  shall  be  pursued  in  laying  this  Road  and  its 
branches : 

*'  That  said  Company  shall  proceed  to  locate,  survey,  and  lay 
out,  construct  and  complete  said  Road  and  branches,  through  the 


INTERNAL    IMPROVEMENTS.  215 

entire  length  thereof — the  main  trunk  thereof,  or  central  line,  to 
run  from  the  city  of  Cairo  to  the  southern  termination  of  the  Illi 
nois  and  Michigan  Canal,  passing  not  more  than  five  miles  from 
the  northeast  corner  of  township  twenty-one  north,  range  two 
east  of  the  third  principal  meridian ;  and  nowhere  departing 
more  than  seventeen  miles  from  a  straight  line  between  said  city 
of  Cairo  and  said  southern  termination  of  said  Canal ;  with  a 
branch  running  from  the  last  mentioned  point,  upon  the  most  eli 
gible  route  to  the  city  of  Galena  ;  thence  to  a  point  on  the  Missis 
sippi  river,  opposite  the  city  of  Dubuque,  in  the  State  of  Iowa; 
with  a  branch  also  diverging  from  the  main  track  at  a  point  not 
north  of  the  parallel  of  thirty-nine  and  a  half  degrees  north  lati 
tude,  and  running  on  the  most  eligible  route  into  the  city  of  Chi 
cago  on  Lake  Michigan." 

The  Illinois  and  Wisconsin  Railroad,  to  run  southeast 
from  FON  DU  LAC,  head  of  Lake  Winnebago,  in  Wiscon 
sin,  through  JANESVILLE,  WOOSTOCK,  Big  Foot  Prairie, 
to  CHICAGO,  has  been  located,  and  considerable  of  it  put 
under  contract  for  speedy  construction. 

This  is  an  important  route,  passing  through  the  upper 
Rock  river  valley,  and  leaving  Wisconsin  in  Walworth 
county,  and  entering  Illinois  in  McHenry  county ;  thus 
lying  in  a  superior  agricultural  district. 

The  Green  Bay  and  Chicago  Railroad  is  another  im 
portant  line  connecting  Illinois  and  Wisconsin.  It  will 
probably  follow  the  Lake-shore  route,  running  through 
those  flourishing  and  beautiful  towns,  which  have  grown 
up  to  wealth  and  elegance  with  such  rapidity  in  the  last 
few  years.  By  this  route  the  distance  will  be  not  far 
from  160  miles. 

Another  important  Railroad  to  Northern  Illinois,  is  the 
one  projected  between  CINCINNATI  and  CHICAGO.  Much 
effort  is  being  put  forth  to  have  it  pushed  forward  with 
energy  and  rapidity. 

A  glance  at  the  map,  to  see  the  district  of  country  this 
line  must  run  through,  will  show  its  vast  use. 

The  Rock  Island  and  Chicago  Railroad  is  still  another 


216  WESTERN    PORTRAITURE. 

very  important  line,  connecting  the  Mississippi  and  Illi 
nois  rivers  with  Lake  Michigan.  Its  western  terminus  is 
at  EOCK  ISLAND  ;  thence  to  run  eastward  to  the  Illinois  at 
PERU  and  LA  SALLE,  and  thence  up  the  valleys  of  the 
Illinois  and  O'Plain  rivers  to  Chicago,  through  a  rich, 
well  populated  country,  and  many  fine  thriving  towns ;  it 
is  under  contract,  the  work  commenced,  and  will  progress 
to  a  speedy  completion,  bringing  Rock  Island  within 
some  four  hours  of  Peru,  and  six  or  seven  hours  of  Chi 
cago. 

The  Railroads  eastward  are  already  in  operation  to  the 
Indiana  State  line,  and  in  a  few  months  will  be  completed 
to  Chicago,  which  will  place  that  city  within  36  to  40 
hours  of  New  York. 

These  Roads,  therefore,  with  its  other  mediums  of  com 
munication,  must  make  CHICAGO  the  center  or  depot  of  an 
immense  and  constantly  increasing  commerce  and  popula 
tion,  second  only  in  importance  to  one  or  two  Atlantic 
cities. 

The  Alton  and  Terre  Haute  Railroad  is  an  important 
line,  and  is  in  the  hands  of  those  who  will  push  it  ener 
getically  through.  Alton  alone  has  taken  over  $100.000 
of  the  stock.  This  line  is  to  connect  the  Wabash  and 
Mississippi  rivers  at  the  places  named  in  the  title  above. 

Northern  Cross  Railroad. — This  is  a  line  to  connect 
QUINCY,  on  the  Mississippi,  with  CLAYTON,  GALESBURG, 
and  other  towns  in  the  interior  of  the  State  ;  and  there  is 
now  a  fair  prospect  of  the  early  completion  of  the  first 
twenty  to  thirty  miles  of  the  Northern  Cross  Railroad, 
from  Quincy  to  Clayton,  within  the  next  twelve  months. 
The  grading  is  already  in  a  state  of  forwardness,  and  the 
Directors  have  recently  completed  a  contract  with  respon 
sible  parties  for  furnishing  the  materials  and  laying  down 
the  superstructure.  The  contract  price  is  $6,493  per 
mile,  and  the  parties  agree  to  take  the  bonds  of  the  city 


INTERNAL    IMPROVEMENTS SPORTING.  217 

of  Quincy  for  $100,000  at  par,  that  being  the  amount 
subscribed  by  the  city,  in  its  corporate  capacity. 

The  survey  of  the  Peoria  and  Oquawka  Railroad  has 
been  made,  and  the  stock  being  mostly  taken,  the  auspices 
are  favorable  for  the  rapid  construction  of  the  Road.  It 
is  to  connect  the  Mississippi  and  Illinois  rivers  at  the  places 
named  in  their  title. 

-Thus  I  have  given  the  name,  location,  and  state  of  pro 
gress,  of  most  of  the  important  Roads  in  the  State,  the 
construction  of  which  must  speedily  enhance  the  value  of 
wild  lands  in  the  West,  and  lead  to  their  rapid  settlement 
and  cultivation. 

Considerable  effort  is  being  made  to  have  a  Railroad 
constructed  from  CINCINNATI  to  ST.  Louis,  through  the 
southern*  part  of  Illinois,  and  cross  the  Central  Railroad 
in  that  region. 

The  fine  Map  which  accompanies  this  work,  will  show 
most  of  the  lines  of  Railroads,  though  I  cannot  give  them 
with  precision,  as  it  is  not  yet  known  through  what  towns, 
in  all  their  length,  they  will  pass ;  but  it  is  the  aim  of 
the  author  to  have  every  thing  as  correct  as  circumstances 
will  permit. 

Of  all  the  various  sports  in  hunting  and  fishing,  of  the 
West,  none  is  more  intensely  interesting  than  that  of 
shooting  prairie  chickens ;  it  is  done  with  a  perfect  vigor 
and  activity  ;  there  is  little  of  the  patience  and  waiting 
that  is  required,  when  lying  in  wait  at  the  "  run  ways" 
for  deer ;  or  the  wary  ambush  for  taking  wild  turkeys ; 
or  the  stealth  and  slewT- wading  for  geese  and  ducks  ;  but  it 
is  lively  walking  and  expectation,  to  keep  up  with  the  skill 
ful  dog,  who  ranges  through  the  grass  to  discover,  and 
"  set,"  and  "  start"  the  bird,  and  the  quick  shooting  to 
take  them  by  couplets,  before  they  are  too  far  flown  for 
your  shot  to  reach.  It  is  a  "fast  operation,"  in  which  the 
adept,  with  a  well  trained  dog,  where  the  birds  are  plenty, 
19 


218  WESTERN    PORTRAITURE. 

will  take  fifty  to  an  hundred  in  an  afternoon,  with  very 
few  more  than  that  number  of  shots.  These  birds  are 
found  in  great  numbers  throughout  the  Western  Prairies 
generally  ;  though  they  incline  to  disappear  as  cultivation 
advances ;  they  are  rather  larger  than  the  pheasant  of 
New  York  and  New  England,  but  somewhat  resembling 
it,  and  equally  luscious  for  the  table.  In  winter  time 
they  are  shot  from  the  trees,  the  cornfields,  and  isolated 
haystacks,  to  which  they  sometimes  resort  in  that  season ; 
but  in  the  spring  and  summer  they  are  really  unfit  to  eat, 
and  should  not  be  killed,  especially  in  the  season  of  laying 
and  hatching ;  yet,  some  inconsiderate  and  gross  minded 
people  will  even  then  destroy  them,  from  no  other  motive 
than  an  idle  disposition  for  destruction.  They  are  the 
best  eating,  and  the  greatest  sport  is  enjoyed  in  taking 
them,  after  about  the  first  of  September,  when  the  young 
chickens  are  large  enough  to  make  a  good  mark  and  afford 
fine  dishes. 

The  grass  of  the  prairies  is  then  waving  and  high,  the 
flowers  bright  and  fragrant,  which  perfectly  secret  the  birds, 
and  then  it  is  highly  amusing  to  see  the  dog  bound  away 
in  a  circuit  of  from  20  to  50  or  100  rods  in  pursuit;  when 
he  comes  up  to  a  covey  of  the  birds  he  manifests  it  to  his 
master  by  suddenly  stopping,  stretches  himself  out,  ly 
ing  closer  to  the  ground,  his  nose  pointed  straight  ahead, 
and  his  tail  straight  back,  and  as  he  slowly  walks  toward 
them  his  tail  begins  to  wag  gently,  the  birds  squat  snugly 
in  the  grass  so  that  a  person  could  not  see  them,  but  as 
"  setter"  leads  nearly  on  to  them  they  rise  and  sail  grace 
fully  away  in  a  horizonly  line,  a  few  feet  above  the  grass, 
not  very  swiftly,  curving  a  little  to  the  right  or  left,  afford 
ing  the  finest  possible  opportunity  for  the  hunter  to  make 
a  couple  of  shots  and  take  a  brace  of  them. 

That  sport  which  comes  nearest  to  the  delights  of  this 
which  I  have  just  described,  is  a  branch  of  Sir  Izak's  art ; 


TROUT    FISHING ROCK    RIVER    COUNTRY.  219 

that  of  taking  the  glittering  trout  from  our  sparkling 
brooks  of  the  north ;  this  is  a  percussion  operation ;  the 
"fly,  bearing  the  hidden  hook,  dips  upon  the  water,  trouty 
snaps  it  with  his  shiny  mouth,  and  the  next  instant  a 
spring  of  Izak  junior's  pole  causes  it  to  bid  a  last  fare 
well  to  its  native  home ;  after  passing  through  various  de 
grees  of  tuition  in  the  culinary  scene-room  it  takes  a  ward 
robe  of  butter  and  flour,  with  perfume  of  pepper  and  salt, 
passes  the  fervid  ordeal  of  frying-pan,  and  soon  simmers 
on  a  plate  beside  the  sparkling  champaign,  under  the 
chuckling  chin  of  Burley  Buster,  or  is  genteely  dissected 
by  the  tiny  fingers  of  la  Belle,  who  knows  right  well  how 
to  exert  the  arts  that  shall  entrap  larger  troutys  into  her 
captive  nets,  when  she  thinks  it  worth  her  while  to  angle 
for  them.  There  is  much  fine  trout  fishing  in  Wisconsin, 
Iowa,  arid  Minnesota ;  and  although  in  Illinois  they  are 
rarely  found,  still  there  is  abundance  of  many  other  fine 
varieties  of  fish,  such  as  bass,  pickerel,  catfish,  buffaloes, 
redhorse,  etc.,  with  occasional  sturgeon  and  eels. 

ROCK  RIVER  COUNTRY. — No  portion  of  the  West  is  re 
marked  with  more  favor  and  admiration  than  this ;  and  it 
holds  about  the  same  relation  that  the  Genesee  country 
does  to  the  East. 

It  is  situated  in  the  northern  part  of  the  state,  and  wa 
tered  by  Rock  river  and  its  branches.  It  is  a  fertile  agri 
cultural  region,  combining  all  the  advantages  of  a  rich  and 
fruitful  soil,  a  healthy  and  temperate  climate,  a  fine  river, 
and  clear  perennial  streams,  affording  excellent  mill-seats, 
together  with  many  of  the  most  useful  and  important  min 
erals. 

Rock  river  rises  in  Wisconsin,  about  midway  between 
Lake  Michigan  and  the  Wisconsin  river.  Its  course  in 
Illinois  is  about  180  miles  in  extent.  It  receives  its  most 
important  tributary,  the  Peckatonica,  from  the  lead  region, 
a  few  miles  below  the  northern  boundary  of  the  State. 


220  WESTERN    PORTRAITURE. 

The  Eock  River  Country  may  be  considered  as  embracing, 
not  only  the  parts  which  border  immediately  upon  that 
stream,  but  all  those  portions  of  the  surrounding  territory 
which  contribute  directly  to  the  development  and  employ 
ment  of  the  resources  of  Rock  river  valley. 

In  this  view  may  be  included  the  mineral  wealth  and 
agricultural  advantages  of  the  Peckatonica  and  its  branches, 
with  the  Kishwaukee  and  its  branches. 

The  bottom  lands  of  these  streams,  usually  about  a 
mile  and  a  half  wide,  are  seldom  surpassed  in  fertility. 
Beside  other  causes  which  have  combined  for  centuries  to 
produce  the  same  result,  the  wash  of  the  bluffs  enriches 
the  plain  below  by  its  deposit.  Like  the  American  Bot 
tom,  below  the  mouth  of  Illinois  river,  which  has  been 
cultivated  for  more  than  a  hundred  years,  the  fertility  of 
most  of  Rock  river  and  Upper  Mississippi  bottoms  is  in 
destructible.  On  such  a  soil,  under  proper  cultivation,  100 
bushels  of  corn  and  40  bushels  of  wheat  to  the  acre  are 
raised  with  facility  ;  when  you  ascend  to  the  elevated  table 
land — which  is  generally  characteristic  of  the  bluffs  beyond 
the  breaks — gullies  formed  by  springs  and  drains  on  the 
edge  of  the  bluffs,  most  usually  the  soil  is  of  the  richest 
kind,  high  and  dry,  and  fanned,  in  the. warmest  days  of 
summer,  by  breezes  of  the  most  refreshing  character. 
These  breezes,  however,  become  cold  winds  in  winter,  as 
the  traveler  can  sensibly  attest. 

There  can  be  no  doubt  of  this  region  being  eminently 
healthy.  The  country  is  supplied  bountifully  with  water 
from  good  springs,  and  the  air  is  equal  to  that  on  the 
mountains  in  purity.  It  is  even  thought  that  the  neigh 
borhood  of  Rock  Island  will  one  day  be  the  resort  of 
rich  invalids,  and  men  of  leisure  from  the  south,  on  account 
of  its  double  charm  of  salubrity  of  atmosphere  and  pic- 
turesqu'eness  of  scenery.  The  existence  of  a  copious  white 
sulphur  spring  near  Rock  Island,  of  medical  virtues  equal, 


SANGAMON ILLINOIS    BEEF.  221 

perhaps,  to  the  waters  of  any  of  the  celebrated  springs  in 
the  United  States,  gives  strength  to  the  idea. 

Above  all  countries,  this  is  the  land  of  flowers.  In  the 
season  every  prairie  is  an  immense  flower-garden.  In  the 
early  stages  of  spring  flowers,  the  prevalent  tint  is  peach- 
blow  ;  the  next  is  a  deeper  red ;  then  succeeds  the  yellow ; 
and  to  the  latest  period  of  autumn,  the  prairies  exhibit  a 
brilliant  golden,  scarlet,  and  blue  carpeting,  mingled  with 
the  green  and  brown  ripened  grass. 

SANGAMON  RIVER  COUNTRY. — The  region  through  which 
the  Sangamon  river  passes,  and  its  tributaries,  is  an  ex 
ceedingly  fertile  one  ;  of  undulating  prairies  interspersed 
with  springs,  brooks,  and  groves.  The  inhabitants  reside 
chiefly  on  the  borders  of  the  prairies,  next  to  the  timber, 
where  they  have  made  many  splendid  farms. 

This  country  is  one  of  the  best  for  raising  stock  in  the 
State ;  the  summer  range  for  cattle  is  inexhaustible,  and 
the  amount  of  excellent  hay  that  may  be  made  every  sea 
son  from  the  rich  prairies  is  almost  without  limit;  and 
horses,  cattle,  sheep,  and  hogs,  can  be  raised  here  with  but 
little  trouble  and  expense,  compared  with  the  Eastern 
States.  The  mildness  of  the  climate  has  not  unfrequently 
relieved  the  owners  from  all  care  and  expense  of  feeding 
them  through  the  winter ;  though  it  is  generally  necessary 
to  feed  from  the  commencement  of  December  until  March. 
It  has  been  frequently  remarked  that  both  horses  and  cat 
tle  fatten  quite  as  fast  in  the  spring  and  summer,  on  the 
wild  grass  of  the  prairies,  as  upon  the  tame  pastures  of  the 
East.  And  the  richness  and  flavor  of  the  beef  thus  fatten 
ed  has  been  much  esteemed,  and  generally  reckoned  of  the 
finest  quality  by  all  who  have  tried  it.  Illinois  beef  has 
no  superior  in  the  Atlantic  market,  and  is  received  with 
high  favor  even  beyond  the  ocean. 

At  the  great  World's  Fair,  even  the  beef  packed  by 
WADSWORTH,  DYER,  and  CHAPIN,  and  others  at,  and  ship- 


222  WESTERN    PORTRAITURE. 

ped  from,  Chicago,  received  much  attention  and  credit ;  this 
beef  was  fattened  upon  the  prairies  almost  entirely. 

Much  stock  is  also  raised  in  the  Rock,  Fox,  O'Plain.  and 
Illinois  river  countries,  as  well  as  in  the  regions  of  the  San- 
gamon,  and  other  streams  of  the  State. 

But  it  is  to  be  regretted  that  Western  farmers  have  not, 
to  a  greater  extent,  and  in  a  better  manner,  engaged  in 
the  Dairy  business.  There  is  nowhere  a  better  field,  nor 
one  where  butter  and  cheese  can  be  made  to  greater  ad 
vantage,  or  of  better  quality,  than  upon  the  great  Western 
Prairies. 

SPRINGFIELD,  the  Capital  of  Illinois,  is  in  Sangamon 
county,  of  which  it  is  also  the  county-seat.  It  is  very 
nearly  central  in  the  State,  being  about  197  miles  nearly 
north  of  its  southern  angle  in  the  junction  of  the  Mississippi 
and  Ohio  rivers ;  185  south  of  the  northern  boundary  of 
the  State;  114  west  of  the  Wabash  river,  the  eastern 
boundary ;  and  90  miles'  east  of  the  Mississippi,  the  west 
ern  boundary. 

This  central  position,  with  its  delightful  location,  pointed 
to  Springfield  as  a  most  appropriate  place  for  the  permanent 
location  of  the  State  Capital,  which  it  became  in  1840,  by  a 
previous  act  of  the  Legislature.  From  1818  up  to  this 
time  it  was  located  at  VANDALIA,  a  town  on  the  west  bank 
of  Kaskaskia  river,  some  70  miles  southeast  of  Springfield. 
Previous  to  that  time,  the  Seat  of  Government  was  at 
KASKASKIA,  also  on  the  west  bank  of  that  river,  about  100 
miles  southwest  of  Vandalia. 

The  new  locations  thus  successively  selected,  at  each 
transit  of  the  Capital,  indicates  pretty  fairly  the  course  of 
the  greatest  increase  of  population  in  this  State — in  earlier 
times,  its  largest  portion  of  population  being  in  the  south 
ern  part  of  the  State ;  but  latterly,  the  northern  part  is 
getting  much  the  start. 

Springfield  is  located  four  miles  south  of  the  Sangamon 


SANGAMON    COUNTY.  223 

river,  on  the  borders  of  a  broad  and  charming  prairie — 
adorned  with  many  rich  and  finely  cultivated  farms,  and 
elegant  rows  and  groves  of  planted  trees — stretching  away 
in  every  direction  to  the  blue  line  of  distant  forests.  It 
was  laid  out  about  the  year  1824;  and,  for  the  first  eight 
or  ten  years,  contained  little  else  than  a  few  scattered  log- 
cabins  ;  all  its  present  business,  wrealth,  and  importance, 
dating  from  about  the  year  1831.  Its  pleasant,  green 
squares  and  lawns,  with  the  accompanying  shade  trees,  add 
vastly  to  the  beauty  and  comfort  of  the  place ;  it  contains 
good  schools,  and  splendid  public  buildings  ;  its  population 
now  reaches  five  or  six  thousand. 

Sangamon  is  a  county  of  superior  land,  which  is  exten 
sively  settled  and  improved.  This  county  has  its  charms 
and  inspiration  for  the  poet,  as  will  be  seen  by  the  follow 
ing  extract : 

"  All  who  have  visited  this  fine  tract  of  country  admire  the  beauty 
of  the  landscape  which  nature  has  painted  in  primeval  freshness. 
So  delightful  a  region  was  early  selected  by  immigrants  from  New 
England,  New  York,  and  North  Carolina:  more  than  200  families 
had  settled  themselves  here  before  it  was  surveyed.  It  now  consti 
tutes  several  populous  counties,  inhabited  by  thriving  farmers. 

"  '  Arcadian  vales,  with  vine-hung  bowers, 

And  grassy  nooks,  'neath  beechen  shade, 
Where  dance  the  never-resting  hours, 

To  music  of  the  bright  cascade  ; 
Skies  softly  beautiful,  and  blue, 

As  Italy's,  with  stars  as  bright ; 
Flowers  rich  as  morning's  sunrise  hue, 

And  gorgeous  as  the  gemm'd  midnight. 
Land  of  the  West !  green  Forest-Land, 
Thus  hath  Creation's  bounteous  hand 
Upon  thine  ample  bosom  flung 
Charms  such  as  were  her  gift  when  the  gray  world  was  young.' 

"  The  prairies  frequently  contain  fine  groves  of  timber,  some  of 
which,  from  their  appearance,  have  received  the  name  of  Elk-heart 
Grove,  Buffalo-heart  Grove,  etc.  These  groves  are  generally  eleva 
ted  above  the  surrounding  prairie,  and  are  most  advantageous  sit 
uations  for  settlements." 


224  WESTERN     PORTRAITURE. 

OKAU  RIVER  COUNTRY. — Another  body  of  nearly  as  ex 
tensive  and  productive  land  lies  along  the  course  of  the 
Kaskaskia,  or  Okau  river.  This  stream  has  a  long  course 
through  central  and  southwestern  Illinois — a  tract  of  coun 
try  diversified  with  prairie  and  forest.  Many  of  the  streams 
which  empty  into  the  Okau  have  considerable  fall,  suffi 
cient  for  mill-sites.  Many  portions  of  the  country  along 
this  river  are  thickly  settled  and  well  cultivated. 

Nearly  two  thirds  of  this  rich  and  handsome  section  of 
the  State  is  prairie,  which  some  people  urge  as  an  objec 
tion  ;  but  the  great  abundance  of  coal  and  peat  to  be  found 
in  the  same  region,  together  with  the  ease  with  which  tim 
ber  can  be  floated  down  the  streams,  from  where  it  is  more 
plenty,  and  the  rapidity  with  which  locust,  walnut,  chest 
nut,  and  some  other  varieties  of  trees  can  be  made  to 
grow,  very  greatly  diminish  the  inconvenience;  of  sparse 
forest  growths. 

Beside,  wire  fences  are  cheap,  durable,  and  answer  an 
admirable  purpose. 

This  matter  of wire  fences  is  becoming  an  object  of  con 
siderable  attention  in  the  prairie  countries,  and  has  been 
adopted  with  success  and  advantage  in  several  locations. 
The  wire  can  be  galvanized,  so  as  to  prevent  its  rusting ; 
or,  a  still  better  mode  can  be  adopted,  that  of  affixing  little 
cups  or  reservoirs  at  the  joints,  or  other  places  in  the  wire, 
of  different  metal  than  the  iron,  wrhere  a  small  portion  of 
acid  or  moisture  may  be  constantly  deposited,  which  will 
keep  up,  at  all  times,  a  slight  galvanic  current,  and  will 
preserve  the  wire  from  decay  by  oxydation,  almost  en 
tirely. 

But  when  we  consider  how  much  lighter  is  the  inconve 
nience  of  this  lack  of  timber,  than  is  the  task  of  chopping, 
logging,  and  clearing  heavy-timbered  lands ;  and  how  much 
more  pleasant  are  smooth  fields,  free  of  stumps  and  trees, 
than  are  the  opposite,  we  see  that,  after  all,  these  prairie 


MILITARY    BOUNTY    TRACT.  225 

farms  are  the  most  profitable  and  pleasant,  if  selected  where 
water  for  stock  is  readily  procured. 

MILITARY  BOUNTY  TRACT. — The  region  generally  de 
nominated  the  Military  Bounty  Tract,  was  surveyed  during 
the  years  1815  and  1816,  and  the  greater  part  subsequently 
appropriated  in  bounties  to  the  soldiers  of  the  regular  army, 
who  served  in  the  late  war  between  the  United  States  and 
Great  Britain.  It  is  situated  between  the  rivers  Missis 
sippi  and  Illinois,  and  extends  from  their  junction  due  north 
by  a  meridian  line,  denominated  the  fourth  principal  me 
ridian,  169  miles,  presenting  an  irregular,  curvilinear  trian 
gle,  the  acute  angle  of  which  is  at  the  junction  of  these  two 
rivers.  From  this  point  the  two  rivers  diverge,  so  as  to 
make  a  distance  of  90  miles  between  the  extreme  points  of 
the  northern  boundary.  Halfway  between  the  extremes, 
the  width  is  64  miles.  The  base  line  running  due  east  and 
west,  and  commencing  just  above  Quincy,  on  the  Missis 
sippi,  and  terminating  at  the  Illinois,  a  little  below  Beards- 
town,  intersects  the  fourth  principal  meridian  at  right  an 
gles  above  the  junction  of  the  Mississippi  and  Illinois  rivers. 

The  whole  tract,  according  to  the  public  surveys,  con 
tains  207  entire  townships,  of  six  miles  square,  and  61  frac 
tional  townships — altogether  5,360,000  acres,  of  which 
3,500,000  have  been  appropriated  in  military  bounties. 

This  tract  of  country  lies  between  38°  54'  and  41  o  40"  of 
north  latitude,  and  13°  west  longitude  from  Washington 
City,  and  bounded  on  the  southwest  for  255  miles  by  the 
Mississippi  river,  and  for  about  the  same  distance  on  the 
southeast  by  the  Illinois.  Thus  do  these  two  great  rivers, 
in  their  diverging  course,  with  Rock  river  approximating 
from  the  north,  form  a  spacious  peninsula,  furnishing  a 
border  to  the  bounty  lands  by  a  sheet  of  navigable  waters 
for  steamboats  more  than  500  miles  in  extent,  leaving  no 
part  of  the  tract  more  than  45  miles,  and  the  greater  part 
not  exceeding  20  miles  from  steamboat  navigation. 


220  WESTERN    PORTRAITURE. 

The  water  communication  now  completed  between  the 
Mississippi  and  the  lakes,  by  means  of  the  Illinois  and  Chi 
cago  Canal,  greatly  increases  the  value  of  the  bounty  lands, 
by  affording  a  choice  of  markets  for  their  products,  either 
at  Chicago,  Detroit,  Buffalo,  New  York,  Montreal,  or  Que 
bec,  by  way  of  the  Illinois  Canal  and  the  Lakes,  or  by  the 
natural  channels  of  the  Rivers  south,  at  St.  Louis  and  New 
Orleans. 

In  the  interior  of  the  tract,  traversing  it  in  various  direc 
tions,  are  several  rivers  and  creeks  of  less  consequence,  in 
a  commercial  point  of  view,  but  nevertheless  of  great  util 
ity  to  the  settlements  in  their  vicinity.  Of  these,  Spoon, 
Henderson,  Edwards,  and  Pope's  rivers,  and  Crooked, 
Kickapoo  or  Red  Bud,  Copperas,  Otter,  McKee's,  McCra- 
ney's,  Hadley's  Mill,  and  Bear  creeks,  are  the  most  con 
siderable. 

About  two  thirds  of  this  tract  is  timbered,  and  the  other 
third  is  mostly  prairie  of  good  quality.  It  has  become 
considerably  settled,  and  yearly  furnishes  considerable 
amounts  of  products  for  export.  Corn,  wheat,  barley, 
hemp,  and  potatoes,  are  the  principal  productions. 

BOTTOM  LANDS. — Those  alluvial  lands,  along  the  rivers, 
in  the  Eastern  States,  called  "  intervals,"  are  termed  Bot 
tom  Lands,  in  the  West.  Portions  of  them  are  overflow 
ed  part  of  the  year,  during  high  freshets  in  the  rivers. 
Most  of  the  Western  rivers  present  more  or  less  of  this  kind 
of  land. 

The  most  extensive  tract,  of  this  description,  in  this 
State,  is  the  American  Bottom,  a  name  it  received  when  it 
constituted  the  western  boundary  of  the  United  States,  and 
which  it  has  retained  ever  since.  It  commences  at  the 
confluence  of  the  Kaskaskia  river  with  the  Mississippi,  and 
extends  northwardly  to  the  mouth  of  the  Missouri ;  being 
bounded  on  the  east  by  a  chain  of  bluffs,  which  in  some 
places  are  sandy  and  in  others  rocky,  and  which  vary  from 


HEALTH VEGETATION.  227 

50  to  200  feet  in  hight.  This  bottom  is  about  80  miles  in 
length,  and  comprises  an  area  of  about  450  square  miles, 
or  288,000  square  acres.  On  the  margin  of  the  river  is  a 
strip  of  heavy  timber,  with  a  rank  undergrowth :  this  ex 
tends  from  a  half  to  two  miles  in  width,  and  from  thence 
to  the  bluffs  is  generally  prairie.  No  soil  can  exceed  this 
in  fertility,  many  parts  of  it  having  been  under  cultivation 
for  more  than  a  century  without  apparent  deterioration. 

The  only  objection  offered  to  this  tract  is  its  unhealthi- 
ness.  This  arises  from  the  circumstance  of  the  lands  di 
rectly  on  the  margin  of  the  river  being  higher  than  those 
under  the  bluffs,  where  the  water,  after  leaving  the  former, 
sets  back  and  forms  ponds  and  lagoons*  which  during  the 
summer  stagnate  and  throw  off  noxious  effluvia.  These, 
however,  might,  at  a  trifling  expense,  be  drained  by  lateral 
canals  communicating  with  the  rivers.  The  first  settlement 
of  this  State  was  commenced  upon  the  tract  of  land  above 
described,  and  its  uncommon  fertility  gave  emigrants  a 
favorable  idea  of  the  wyhole  country.  Cultivation  has,  no 
doubt,  done  much  to  render  this  region  more  healthy  than 
it  formerly  was.  It  will  be  recollected  that  a  few  years 
ago,  Lotteries  were  numerously  got  up  in  the  West,  de 
clared  for  the  specious  purpose  of  Draining  the  American 
Bottoms ;  but  we  have  never  learned  that  they  produced 
any  such  beneficial  results,  although  many  thousand  dol 
lars  worth  of  tickets  were  sold  for  years. 

I  will  here  notice  an  error  of  the  old  inhabitants,  in  re 
gard  to  a  philosophical  fact  in  vegetation.  They  recom 
mended  the  settlers  not  to  plant  corn  near  their  dwellings 
on  this  tract ;  as  its  luxuriant  growth  prevented  the  sun 
from  dispelling  the  bad  vapors.  This  is  erroneous  doc 
trine  ;  as  luxuriant  growths  of  vegetation  absorb  or  take  in 
the  carbon  and  other  gases,  deleterious  to  human  health,  at 
the  same  time  they  give  off  oxygen,  so  essential  to  the  ex 
istence  of  life.  It  is  the  gases  and  vapors  arising  from 


228  WESTERN    PORTRAITURE. 

dead  and  decaying,  not  live,  vegetables  which  destroy  health. 
Hence,  the  unhealthiness  of  the  first  breaking  up  of  a  new 
country — it  sends  up  and  scatters  to  the  winds  clouds  of 
effluvia  from  long  rotted  vegetation  of  years  past,  which 
fresh  green  vegetation  will  absorb  before  it  can  reach  man's 
lungs. 

And  much  on  the  same  grounds,  from  similar  causes,  is 
a  region  where  much  fruit  blooms  and  ripens  more  healthy 
than  before  it  existed ;  these  orchards  taking  in  from  the 
air  (carbon)  what  man  does  not  want,  and  giving  off  (oxy 
gen)  what  he  does  need.  If  only  for  their  salubrious  influ 
ence,  the  early  planting  and  raising  of  orchards  in  new 
countries  is  highly  desirable  and  profitable.  The  same  re 
sults  do  not  follow  from  the  proximity  of  tall  natural  for 
ests,  as  they  are  so  high  as  to  shade  off  the  warming,  dry 
ing  operations  of  the  sun,  while  their  chemical  operations 
are  carried  on,  mostly,  in  an  upper  stratum  or  current  of 
air  above  the  region  of  man's  respiring. 

These  things  or  principles  are  highly  worthy  the  careful 
and  extended  considerations  of  farmers,  particularly  in  new 
countries. 

TIMBERED  LAND. — As  a  whole,  Illinois  is  abundantly  sup 
plied  with  timber ;  and  were  it  equally  distributed  through 
the  State,  there  would  be  no  part  wanting.  The  apparent 
scarcity  of  timber,  where  the  prairies  predominate,  is  not 
so  great  an  obstacle  to  the  settlement  as  has  been  sup 
posed.  For  many  of  the  purposes  to  which  timber  is  ap 
plied,  substitutes  are  found.  The  rapidity  with  which  the 
young  growth  pushes  itself  forward,  without  a  single  effort 
on  the  part  of  man,  and  the  readiness  with  which  the  prai 
ries  become  converted  into  thickets,  and  then  into  a  forest, 
shows  that,  in  another  generation,  timber  will  not  be  want 
ing  in  any  part  of  Illinois. 

The  timber  of  the  bottom  lands  consists  of  black  and 
white  M'alnut,  ash  of  several  species,  hackberry,  elm  (white 


TIMBER    LAND INDIANS.  229 

and  slippery),  sugar-maple,  honey-locust,  buck-eye,  catalpa, 
sycamore,  cottonwood,  pecan,  hickory,  mulberry ;  several 
oaks — as,  over-cup,  burr-oak,  swamp  or  water  oak,  white, 
red,  or  Spanish  oak ;  and  of  the  shrubbery  are  red-bud, 
papaw,  grape-vine,  eglantine,  dog-wood,  spice-bush,  hazel, 
greenbrier,  etc.  Along  the  margin  of  the  streams  the 
sycamore  and  cottonwood  often  predominate,  and  attain  to 
an  amazing  size.  The  cottonwood  is  of  rapid  growth,  a 
light,  whitewood,  sometimes  used  for  rails,  shingles,  and 
scantlings ;  not  lasting,  and  of  no  great  value.  Its  dry, 
light  wood  is  much  used  in  steamboats.  It  forma  the 
chief  proportion  of  the  driftwood  that  floats  down  the  riv 
ers,  and  is  frequently  converted  into  planters,  snags,  and 
sawyers.  The  sycamore  is  the  buttonwood  of  New  En 
gland,  is  frequently  hollow,  and  in  that  state  procured  by 
the  farmers,  cut  at  suitable  lengths,  cleaned  out,  and  used 
as  depositories  for  grain.  It  is  the  gum-tree  of  the  negro 
plantations.  They  answer  the  purpose  of  large  casks. 
The  size  of  the  cavity  of  some  of  these  trees  appears  in 
credible  in  the  ears  of  a  stranger  to  the  luxuriant  growth 
of  the  West.  To  say  that  twenty  or  thirty  men  could  be 
comfortably  lodged  in  one,  would  seem  a  monstrous  fic 
tion  to  a  New  Englander,  but  to  those  accustomed  to 
this  species  of  tree  on  the  bottoms,  it  is  nothing  marvel 
ous. 

The  uplands  are  covered  with  various  species  of  oak,  among 
which  is  the  post-oak,  a  valuable  and  lasting  timber  for  posts ; 
white  oak,  black  oak  of  several  varieties,  and  blackjack, 
a  dwarfish,  gnarled  looking  tree,  good  for  nothing  but  fuel, 
for  which  it  is  equal  to  any  tree  we  have  ;  of  hickory,  both 
the  shagbark  and  smoothbark,  black  walnut  in  some  parts, 
'white  walnut  or  butternut,  Lynn,  cherry,  and  many  of  the 
species  produced  in  the  bottoms.  The  black  walnut  is 
much  used  for  building  materials,  and  cabinet  work,  and 
sustains  a  fine  polish.  The  different  species  of  oaks,  wal- 
20 


230  WESTERN    PORTRAITURE. 

nuts,  hackberry,  and  occasionally  hickory,  are  used  for 
fencing. 

In  some  parts  of  the  State  the  white  and  yellow  poplar 
prevails.  Beginning  at  the  Mississippi,  a  few  miles  above 
the  mouth  of  Muddy  river,  and  extending  a  line  to  the 
mouth  of  Little  Wabash,  leaves  the  poplar  range  south, 
interspersed  with  beach.  Near  the  Ohio,  on  the  low  creek 
bottoms,  the  cypress  is  found.  No  poplar  exists  on  the 
eastern  borders  of  the  State  till  you  arrive  near  Palestine ; 
while  on  the  opposite  shore  of  the  Wabash,  in  Indiana,  the 
poplar  and  beach  predominate. 

Of  the  noble  forests  of  the  West;  and  of  the  harsh, 
stern  policy  of  our  people,  which  is  fast  extinguishing  the 
Aboriginal  races  of  this  continent,  Miss  FRANCES  FULLER 
has  written  the  following  eloquent  and  beautiful  lines  : 

"  Proud  forests  !  ye  stately  old  woods  of  the  West, 
In  what  glorious  hues  are  your  aged  boughs  dress'd  ! 
How  bravely  ye  stand  in  your  gorgeous  pride, 
Decked  out  in  the  robes  that  old  autumn  hath  dyed  ; 
Yet  my  heart  hath  grown  sadder  while  gazing  on  ye, 
And  list'ning  the  voices  that  sigh  from  each  tree, 
For  they  tell  of  the  red  man — the  child  of  the  Wood — 
And  his  form  seems  to  rise  in  the  dim  solitude ; 
And  now  when  the  autumn  winds  sigh  through  the  trees, 
His  voice  haunts  my  ear  with  each  swell  of  the  breeze ; 
I  hear  his  low  call,  and  his  step  stealing  by, 
The  twang  of  the  bow  and  the  bird's  sudden  cry — 
A  thousand  wild  murmurings  tremble  in  air, 
And  startle  my  spirit  with  thrillings  of  fear  ; 
Yet  1  love  the  wild  music  for  breathing  the  tone 
Of  ages  gone  by,  and  of  races  long  flown. 
Old  forests  !  ye  stand  in  your  majesty  yet, 
Bearing  proudly  the  seal  by  the  Deity  set." 

Among  the  fine  forests  and  over  the  beautiful  prairie 
the  Indian  was  wont  in  his  freedom  and  simple  happiness 
to  chase  the  deer  and  trap  the  fur.  But  where  now  is  he  1 
He  has  given  place  to  a  race  with  nobler  improvements — 
yet,  his  destiny  is  sad. 

RIVERS. — No  State  in  the  Union  is  so  well  supplied,  in 


RIVERS THE    MFSSISSIPPI.  231 

all  parts,  with  rivers  and  streams  as  Illinois,  whether  for 
navigation  mill-power,  or  the  purposes  of  farming,  etc. 

A  glance  at  the  map  will  show  this  fact ;  the  several 
largest  rivers,  generally  holding  one  common  direction, 
while  innumerable  smaller  ones  fall  into  them  from  all  di 
rections  ;  so  that  not  a  county,  or  scarcely  a  town,  but  is 
sufficiently  supplied  with  water,  both  for  stock  and  hy 
draulics. 

For  the  most  part  I  have  copied  the  description  of 
rivers,  from  "  Illinois  in  1837  ;"  as  in  that  work  they  are 
detailed  with  great  care. 

On  the  West,  the  State  is  bounded  by  the  Mississippi. 
At  St.  Anthony's  the  real  fall  of  the  Mississippi  is  between 
sixteen  and  seventen  feet,  of  perpendicular  descent;  yet 
the  descent,  as  the  water  breaks  over  different  rapids,  is 
considerably  more  than  that.  Though  it  has  not  the 
slightest  claim  to  compare  with  that  of  Niagara  in  gran 
deur,  it  furnishes  an  impressive  and  beautiful  spectacle  in 
the  loneliness  of  the  desert.  The  adjoining  scenery  is  of 
the  most  striking  and  romantic  character. 

Below  this  point,  it  is  bounded  by  limestone  bluffs, 
from  100  to  400  feet  high;  and  first  begins  to  exhibit 
islands,  driftwood,  and  sandbars ;  its  current  is  slightly 
broken  by  the  Rock  river  and  Des  Moines  rapids ;  which, 
however,  present  no  considerable  obstruction  to  naviga 
tion  ;  and  843  miles  from  the  falls  its  waters  are  aug 
mented  by  the  immense  stream  of  the  Missouri  from  the 
west ;  the  latter  has,  indeed,  the  longer  course,  brings 
down  a  greater  bulk  of  water,  and  gives  its  own  character 
to  the  united  current ;  yet  it  loses  its  name  in  the  inferior 
stream.  Above  their  junction,  the  Mississippi  is  a  clear, 
placid  stream,  one  mile  and  a  half  in  width  ;  below,  it  is 
turbid,  and  becomes  narrower,  deeper,  and  more  rapid. 

Between  the  Missouri  and  the  sea,  a  distance  of  1,220 
miles,  it  receives  its  principal  tributaries,  the  Ohio  from 


232  WESTERN    PORTRAITURE. 

the  east,  and  the  Arkansas  and  Red  rivers  from  the  west ; 
and  immediately  below  the  mouth  of  the  latter,  gives  off, 
in  times  of  flood,  a  portion  of  its  superfluous  waters  by  the 
outlet  of  the  Atchafalava. 

Below  here  it  discharges  a  portion  of  its  waters  by  the 
Lafourche  and  Iberville ;  but  the  great  bulk  flows  on  in 
the  main  channel,  through  the  flat  tract  of  New  Orleans, 
reaches  the  sea  at  the  end  of  a  long  projecting  tongue  of 
mud,  deposited  by  the  river.  Near  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  it 
divides  into  several  channels,  called  passes,  with  bars  at 
their  mouths.  The  water  is  12  to  16  feet  deep  and  muddy, 
and  colors  those  of  the  Gulf  for  the  distance  of  several 
leagues. 

The  river  begins  to  rise  in  the  early  part  of  March,  and 
continues  to  increase  irregularly  to  the  middle  of  June, 
generally  overflowing  its  banks  to  a  greater  or  less  extent, 
although  for  some  years  these  have  not  been  inundated. 
Above  the  Missouri,  the  flooded  bottoms  are  from  five  to 
eight  miles  wide,  but  below  that  point,  they  expand  by 
the  recession  of  the  river  hills  from  the  channel,  to  a 
breadth  of  from  40  to  50  miles.  From  the  mouth  of  the 
Ohio,  the  whole  western  bank  does  not  offer  a  single  spot 
eligible  for  the  site  of  a  considerable  town ;  on  the  eastern 
side,  there  are  several  points  where  the  hills  approach  the 
river,  and  afford  good  town-sites ;  but  from  Memphis  to 
Vicksburg,  365  miles,  the  whole  tract  consists  of  low 
grounds ;  and  below  Baton  Rouge,  where  the  line  of  up 
land  wholly  leaves  the  river,  and  passes  off  to  the  east, 
there  is  no  place  on  the  river  border  which  is  higher  than 
the  marshy  tract  in  its  rear. 

The  Mississippi  is  obstructed  by  planters,  sawyers,  and 
wooden  islands,  which  are  frequently  the  cause  of  injury, 
and  even  destruction,  to  the  boats  which  navigate  it. 
Planters  are  large  bodies  of  trees  firmly  fixed  by  their 
roots  in  the  bottom  of  the  river,  one  of  their  ends  appear- 


RIVERS CAIRO CAPTAIN    GEAR.  233 

ing  about  one  foot  above  the  surface  of  the  water,  when  at 
its  medium  hight. 

The  principal  tributaries  of  the  Mississippi,  within  the 
State  of  Illinois,  are  Rock,  Illinois,  Kaskaskia,  and  Big 
Muddy  Rivers. 

At  latitude  39°  comes  in  the  Illinois,  from  the  north,  a 
noble,  broad,  and  navigable  stream  of  400  yards  in  width, 
having  a  course  in  the  State  of  about  400  miles,  and  navi 
gable  most  of  that  distance. 

Near  latitude  38°,  some  500  miles  below  the  north  line 
of  the  State,  the  Kaskaskia,  from  the  east,  enters  the  Mis 
sissippi  ;  it  is  150  yards  wide,  is  some  300  miles  in  length, 
and  is  navigable  about  one  third  of  that  distance.  Cotton 
and  tobacco  have  been  raised  on  its  banks. 

Above  40  miles  farther  down,  the  Big  Muddy  comes  in 
from  the  north,  discovered  and  named  by  the  French, 
Riviere  au  Vase  ou  Vaseux  ;  it  is  capable  of  navigation  for 
small  craft  some  distance,  and  its  banks  afford  large  quan 
tities  of  coal,  together  with  valuable  salines. 

In  latitude  37°  north  comes  in  the  splendid  Ohio,  which 
is  the  largest  eastern  tributary  of  the  Mississippi ;  it  con 
stitutes  the  southern  boundary  of  the  State,  and  from  the 
beauty  of  the  country  through  which  it  passes,  has  been 
called  La  Belle  Riviere. 

Cairo  is  a  town  at  the  junction  of  this  river  with  the 
Mississippi ;  and  is  destined  to  be  a  place  of  great  com 
mercial  importance,  as  it  is  the  southern  terminus  of  the 
Illinois  Central  Railroad,  and  place  of  crossing  for  the  ex 
tension  to  the  Gulf  of  Mexico  of  the  Chicago  and  Mobile 
Road.  In  due  time  enterprise  and  art  will  improve  over 
the  apparent  disadvantages  of  nature,  and  a  large,  wealthy, 
commercial  city  must  grow  up  at  the  junction  of  the  great 
Rivers  and  the  Railroad. 

Between  41°  and  42°,  Rock  river  from  the  north  enters 
the  Mississippi ;  its  general  course  is  southwest,  and  it  is 


234  WESTERN    PORTRAITURE. 

navigable  some  ways  up,  in  some  seasons  of  the  year.  I 
have  been  informed,  that  one  season,  some  1,200,000  Ibs. 
of  lead  was  shipped  from  the  Mineral  region,  down  this 
river,  by  Captain  Gear,  who  run  the  first  Steamboat  up 
Eock  river  from  the  Mississippi. 

These  are  the  largest  rivers  of  Illinois  that  fall  into  the 
Mississippi,  though  there  are  some  smaller  ones,  as  Hen 
derson,  Pope,  Fevre,  etc. 

The  principal  rivers  which  empty  into  the  Ohio  from 
Illinois  are  the-  Wabash,  Saline,  and  Cash.  The  first  of 
these  rise  in  Indiana,  and  running  down  the  eastern  border  of 
the  State  enters  the  Ohio  about  200  miles  above  Cairo;  it 
is  near  600  miles  in  length,  and  is  navigable  much  of  that 
distance ;  it  presents  one  considerable  rapid  a  short  dis 
tance  below  Vincennes.  The  principal  tributaries  of  this 
river  are  Embarrass,  Vermillion,  and  Little  Wabash. 
The  Embarrass  rises  in  Champaign  county  and  vicinity, 
and  is  about  150  miles  long.  The  Vermillion  rises  about 
Vermillion  and  Livingston  counties,  and  runs  southeast 
into,  the  Wabash.  The  Little  Wabash  rises  in  Gallatin 
county,  is  about  140  miles  long,  and  is  navigable  some 
distance  for  flat  boats  and  rafts. 

The  shores  of  the  Ohio,  from  Pittsburg  to  the  mouth  of 
the  Wabash,  are  high  rocky  bluffs ;  but  below  that,  low  and 
subject  to  be  overflowed.  The  estimated  elevation  of  this 
river  at  Pittsburg  is  678  feet,  and  that  of  low  water,  at  its 
confluence  with  the  Mississippi,  283  feet  in  949  miles,  the 
length  of  the  intermediate  channel,  making  an  average  de 
scent  of  a  little  over  five  inches  in  a  mile.  Since  the  Louisville 
and  Portland  Cawa/has  been  completed,  steamboats  of  small 
draft  can  descend  at  all  times  from  Pittsburg  to  the  Mis 
sissippi.  Flat  and  keel  boats  descend  the  river  at  all  sea 
sons,  but  in  periods  of  low  water  with  frequent  ground 
ings  on  the  sandbars,  and  the  necessity  of  often  unloading 
to  get  the  boat  off. 


RIVERS SANGAMON.  235 

The  inundations,  as  on  the  Mississippi,  are  occasionally 
sources  of  disease,  and  in  many  cases  impediments  to  im 
provement.  There  are,  however,  some  elevated  situations 
which  afford  good  town-sites,  and  which  must  become 
places  of  considerable  importance.  It  is  much  to  be  re 
gretted,  that  at  the  confluence  of  the  Ohio  and  Mississippi 
there  is  an  extensive  recently  formed  alluvion,  which  is 
annually  inundated,  and  which  cannot,  without  immense 
expense,  be  made  an  eligible  town-site. 

Some  35  or  45  miles  below  the  junction  of  the  Kan- 
kakee  and  O'Plain,  Fox  river  enters  the  Illinois  from  the 
north.  Both  above  and  below  the  mouth  of  this  stream, 
there  is  a  succession  of  rapids  in  the  Illinois,  with  inter 
vals  of  deep  and  smooth  water.  From  the  mouth  of  Fox 
river  to  the  foot  of  the  rapids  is  nine  miles,  the  descent, 
in  all,  eight  feet ;  the  rock  is  soft  sandstone  mixed  with 
gravel  and  shelly  limestone.  Nine  miles  above  Fox  river, 
the  grand  rapids  commence,  and  extend  ten  or  twelve 
miles.  They  are  formed  by  ledges  of  rocks  in  the  river 
and  rocky  islands.  The  whole  descent  from  the  surface 
of  Lake  Michigan  at  Chicago  to  the  foot  of  the  rapids,  a 
distance  of  ninety-four  and  a  quarter  miles,  is  one  hundred 
and  forty-one  feet  and  eighty-seven  hundredths. 

At  the  foot  of  the  rapids  the  Vermillion  river  enters 
the  Illinois  from  the  south,  by  a  mouth  of  about  fifty 
yards  wide  ;  it  is  an  excellent  mill  stream,  and  runs 
through  extensive  beds  of  bituminous  coal.  Some  fine 
groves,  and  extensive  prairies,  and  at  different  points 
superb  mills  and  factories  have  been  erected. 

The  Sangamon  is  one  of  the  interior  rivers,  which 
empties  into  the  Illinois  a  short  distance  below  Beards- 
town,  and  is  one  of  the  chief  branches  of  that  river ;  it  is 
about  180  miles  long,  of  which  about  120  miles  are  nav 
igable  for  small  craft.  Spoon  river  is  another  large  trib 
utary  of  the  Illinois. 


236  WESTERN     PORTRAITURE. 

There  are  but  slight  and  few  bars  or  other  impediments 
to  the  navigation  of  the  Illinois ;  and  an  effort  is  now  be 
ing  made  by  those  interested  to  have  them  removed,  and 
to  induce  Congress  to  grant  some  aid  to  the  project. 

MINERALS. — Lead,  coal,  salt,  iron,  zinc,  copper,  and 
lime  are  the  principal  and  most  abundant  minerals  found 
in  Illinois  ;  some  of  which  are  numerous  and  a  source  of 
large  revenue ;  though  the  deeper  earth  and  rock  founda 
tions  have  not  generally  been  thoroughly  explored. 

Lead  is  found  in  the  northwestern  part  of  the  state  in 
vast  quantities.  The  Indians  and  French  had  been  long 
accustomed  to  procure  small  quantities  of  the  ore,  but  it 
was  not  until  about  the  year  1822  that  the  process  of  sep 
arating  the  metal  was  begun  to  be  carried  on  scientific 
ally.  Since  that  time,  up  to  the  end  of  1835,  70,420,357 
pounds  of  lead  have  been  made  here,  and  upward  of 
13,000,000  pounds  have  been  smelted  in  one  year;  but 
the  business  having  been  overdone,  the  product  has  since 
been  much  less.  In  1833,  it  was  7,941,792  pounds  ;  in 
1834,  7,971,579;  and  in  1835,  only  3,754,290.  This 
statement  includes  the  produce  of  Wisconsin  as  well  as 
of  Illinois.  The  rent  accruing  to  government  for  the 
same  period,  is  a  fraction  short  of  6,000,000  pounds. 
Formerly,  the  government  received  ten  per  cent,  in  lead 
for  rents.  Now  it  is  six  per  cent. 

Formerly  the  Mineral  Lands  were  rented  and  not  in 
market ;  but  they  have  since  been  bought  and  worked  as 
private  property,  and  the  product  has  been  greatly  in 
creased  thereby. 

Iron  ore  has  been  found  in  the  southern  parts  of  the 
state,  and  is  said  to  exist  in  considerable  quantities  also 
in  the  north. 

Native  copper,  in  large  quantities,  exists  in  the  northern 
part  of  the  state,  especially  at  the  mouth  of  Plum  creek, 
and  on  the  Peckatonica.  It  is  also  found  in  small  quanti- 


MINERALS SPRINGS.  237 

ties  on  Muddy  river,  in  Jackson  county,  and  back  of  Har 
rison  vi  lie,  in  the  bluffs  of  rivers  in  Monroe  county,  to 
some  small  extent. 

In  this  connection  it  may  be  proper  to  mention  a  petri 
fied  or  fossil  curiosity  which  attracts  considerable  atten 
tion.  It  is  on  the  banks  of  the  O'Plain,  a  short  distance 
above  its  junction  with  the  Kankakee ;  it  is  a  fossil  tree, 
of  a  very  considerable  size.  It  is  a  species  of  phytolites, 
and  is  embedded  in  a  horizontal  position  in  a  stratum  of 
newer  floetz  sandstone,  of  a  gray  color  and  close  grain. 
There  are  about  fifty-one  feet  of  the  trunk  visible.  It  is 
eighteen  inches  in  diameter. 

As  to  the  precious  metals,  some  indications  appear,  and 
some  specimens  have  been  found.  Silver  is  supposed  to 
exist  in  St.  Glair  county,  two  miles  from  Rock  Spring, 
whence  Silver  creek  derives  its  name.  In  the  early  times 
the  French  sunk  a  shaft  here,  and  tradition  tells  of  large 
quantities  of  the  precious  metal  being  obtained.  In  the 
southern  part  of  the  state,  several  sections  of  land  were 
reserved  from  sale,  on  account  of  the  silver  ore  they  were 
supposed  to  contain.  Marble  of  a  fine  quality  is  found  in 
Randolph  county.  Crystalized  gypsum  has  been  found 
in  small  f quantities  in  St.  Clair  county.  Quartz  crystals 
exist  in  Gallatin  and  other  counties. 

Bituminous  coal  abounds  in  this  state,  and  may  be  found 
in  nearly  every  county.  It  is  frequently  found  without 
excavation,  in  the  ravines  and  at  the  points  of  bluffs. 
Vast  beds  of  this  mineral  exist  in  the  bluffs  adjacent  to 
the  American  Bottom. 

Several  large  veins  of  coal,  and  apparently  exhaustless, 
have  been  struck  in  excavating  the  Illinois  and  Michigan 
Canal.  A  bed  of  anthracite  coal,  it  is  said,  has  been  dis 
covered  on  Muddy  river  in  Jackson  county. 

Muriate  of  soda,  or  common  salt,  has  been  found  in 
various  parts  of  the  state,  held  in  solution  in  the  springs. 


238  WESTERN    PORTRAITURE. 

The  manufacture  of  salt  by  boiling  and  evaporation  is  car 
ried  on  in  Gallatin  county,  12  miles  west  northwest  from 
Shawneetown  j  in  Jackson  county,  near  Brownsville  ;  and 
in  Vermillion  county,  near  Danville.  The  springs  and 
land  are  owned  by  the  State,  and  the  works  leased.  A 
coarse  freestone,  much  used  in  building,  is  dug  from  quar 
ries,  near  Alton,  on  the  Mississippi,  where  large  bodies 
exist. 

Medicinal  waters  are  found  in  different  parts  of  the 
state.  These  are  chiefly  sulphur  springs  and  chalybeate 
waters.  There  is  said  to  be  one  well  in  the  southern  part 
of  the  state  strongly  impregnated  with  the  sulphate  of 
magnesia,  or  Epsom  salts,  from  which  considerable  quan 
tities  have  been  made  for  sale,  by  simply  evaporating  the 
water,  in  a  kettle,  over  a  common  fire.  There  are  several 
sulphur  springs  in  Jefferson  county,  to  which  persons  re 
sort  for  health. 

Between  Ottowa  and  Peru  some  fine  mineral  springs 
exist,  which  are  supposed  to  be  highly  beneficial  for  me 
dicinal  purposes.  I  have  never  seen  an  analysis  of  their 
ingredients,  and  cannot  speak  more  definitely. 

PRODUCTIONS  OF  SOIL. — All  the  grains,  fruits,  and  roots 
of  the  temperate  regions  of  the  earth  grow  luxuriantly  in 
Illinois ;  the  wheat  is  of  excellent  quality,  and  there  is  no 
part  of  the  Western  Country  where  corn  is  raised  with 
greater  ease  and  abundance.  Garden  vegetables  of  all 
kinds  succeed  well.  No  country  can  exceed  this  for  fruit- 
bearing  shrubs.  Wild  fruits  and  berries  are  in  many 
places  abundant,  and  on  some  of  the  prairies  the  straw 
berries  are  remarkably  fine. 

In  most  parts  of  the  state,  grape-vines,  indigenous  to 
the  country,  are  abundant,  yielding  grapes  that  might  ad 
vantageously  be  made  into  excellent  wine.  Foreign  vines 
are  susceptible  of  easy  cultivation.  Wild  vines  are  found 
in  every  variety  of  soil,  interwoven  in  every  thicket  in 


PRODUCTIONS WILD   AND    DOMESTIC.  239 

the  prairies  and  barrens,  and  climbing  to  the  tops  of  the 
very  highest  trees  on  the  bottoms.  The  French  in  early 
times  made  so  much  wine  as  to  export  some  to  France ; 
upon  which  the  proper  authorities  prohibited,  about  the 
year  1774,  the  introduction  of  wine  from  Illinois,  lest  it 
might  injure  the  sale  of  that  staple  article  of  the  kingdom. 
At  Peoria,  Peru,  and  Chicago  they  do  well.  - 

Plums,  of  various  sizes  and  flavor,  grow  in  great  abun 
dance  ;  their  color  is  generally  red,  and  their  taste  deli 
cious.  In  some  locations,  acres  of  these  trees  exhibit  a 
surface  of  the  color  of  rubies,  others  bright-yellow  and 
blue :  the  quantities  of  fruit  are  prodigious. 

Crab-apples  are  also  very  prolific,  and  make  fine  pre 
serves.  Wild  cherries  are  equally  productive.  The  per 
simmon  is  a  delicious  fruit,  after  the  frost  has  destroyed 
its  astringent  properties.  The  black  mulberry  grows  in 
most  parts,  and  is  used  for  the  feeding  of  silk-worms  with 
success.  They  appear  to  thrive  and  spin  as  well  as  on 
the  Italian  mulberry.  The  cranberry,  huckleberry,  goose 
berry,  wild  currant,  strawberry,  and  blackberry  grow  wild 
and  in  great  profusion.  Of  nuts,  the  hickory,  butternut, 
black  walnut,  and  peccan,  deserve  notice.  The  last  is  an 
oblong,  thin-shelled,  delicious  nut,  that  grows  on  a  large 
tree,  a  species  of  the  hickory.  The  papaw  grows  in  the 
bottom  and  rich-timbered  uplands,  and  produces  a  large, 
pulpy,  and  luscious  fruit. 

Of  domestic  fruits,  the  apple  and  peach  are  chiefly  cul 
tivated.  Pears  are  tolerably  plentiful  in  some  settle 
ments,  and  quinces  are  cultivated  with  success.  Apples 
are  easily  cultivated,  and  are  very  productive  of  large 
size. 

The  cultivated  vegetable  productions  in  the  field  are 
corn,  wheat,  oats,  barley,  buckwheat,  potatoes,  sweet  po 
tatoes,  turnips,  rye,  tobacco,  cotton,  hemp,  flax,  the  castor- 
beau,  and  every  other  production  common  to  the  middle 


240  WESTERN    PORTRAITURE. 

states.  Indian  corn  is  a  staple  production.  No  farmer 
can  live  without  it,  and  hundreds  raise  little  else.  This  Is 
chiefly  owing  to  the  ease  with  which  it  is  cultivated.  Its 
average  yield  is  fifty  bushels  to  the  acre.  Oftentimes  the 
product  amounts  to  seventy-five  bushels  to  the  acre,  and 
in  some  instances  has  exceeded  one  hundred.  Corn  is 
generally  planted  about  the  first  of  May,  often  earlier. 

The  sugar  beet,  ruta  baga,  and  cabbages,  are  raised  with 
great  ease,  and  of  very  large  yield ;  while  the  sweet  po 
tato  is  cultivated  by  many  to  considerable  profit ;  the 
only  difficulty  being  that  of  preserving  the  seed  through 
the  winter,  which  is  easily  done,  if  understood. 

CLIMATE. — The  climate  of  Illinois  is  such  as  would  be 
naturally  expected  from  the  latitude  in  which  it  lies.  The 
thermometer  does  not  range  more  widely  here  than  in 
similar  parallels  east  of  the  Alleghany  mountains ;  nor 
perhaps  as  much  so  as  in  those  districts  beyond  the  in 
fluence  of  the  sea-breeze.  There  is  every  day  a  breeze, 
from  some  quarter  of  the  broad  prairies,  almost  as  re 
freshing  as  that  from  the  ocean ;  the  easterly  winds,  so 
chilling  and  so  annoying  along  the  Atlantic  sea-board  are 
seldom ;  but  breezes  from  the  prairies  are  annoying  to 
the  traveler  when  the  mercury  is  at  zero. 

The  winter  commences  in  December,  and  ends  in  Feb 
ruary.  Its  duration  and  temperature  are  variable.  The 
winters  generally  exhibit  a  temperature  of  climate  some 
what  milder  than  those  of  the  Atlantic  states  in  the  same 
latitude.  Snow  rarely  falls  to  the  depth  of  six  inches,  and 
as  rarely  remains  more  than  ten  or  twelve  days.  There 
are,  however,  occasional  short  periods  of  very  cold  weather ; 
but  they  seldom  continue  longer  than  three  or  four  days 
at  a  time.  The  Mississippi  is  sometimes  frozen  over  and 
passed  on  the  ice  at  St.  Louis,  and  occasionally  for  several 
weeks  together.  The  year  1811  was  remarkable  for  the 
river  closing  over  twice — a  circumstance  which  had  not  oc- 


SEASONS INDIAN    SUMMER.  241 

curred  before  within  the  memory  of  the  oldest  inhab 
itant. 

During  the  winter  of  '49-50,  there  was  nearly  three 
months  continuous  sleighing  in  Illinois,  Wisconsin,  and 
Iowa ;  a  circumstance  which  had  not  occurred  before  for 
many  years.  The  writer  of  this,  during  that  winter, 
crossed  the  Mississippi  in  a  sleigh  on  the  ice,  at  Rock 
Island,  in  the  first  wee"k  of  January  ;  and  he  crossed  it  as 
far  down  as  Keokuk,  on  the  ice,  as  late  as  the  first  week 
in  March,  of  the  same  winter.  At  Chicago,  and  along 
the  Canal,  the  holidays  were  made  the  more  merry  by 
fine  sleigh-riding,  which  is  very  unusual  in  that  region. 
Still,  the  winters  in  these  States  are  on  the  average  much 
milder  and  more  favorable  to  stock  than  in  similar  lati 
tudes  at  the  East. 

The  summers  are  warm,  though  during  the  sultry 
months  the  intensity  of  heat  is  modified  by  a  free  course 
everywhere  to  genial  breezes,  constantly  giving  to  the  at 
mosphere  a  refreshing  elasticity.  During  this  season,  the 
appearance  of  the  country  is  gay  and  beautiful,  being 
clothed  with  grass,  foliage,  and.  flowers,  of  endless  hues 
and  fragrance. 

Of  all  the  seasons  of  the  year,  the  autumn  is  the  most 
delightful.  The  heat  of  the  summer  is  over  by  the  mid 
dle  of  August ;  and  from  that  time  till  December,  there 
is  almost  one  continuous  succession  of  bright,  clear,  de 
lightful  sunny  days,  flecked  with  fitful  clouds.  Nothing 
can  exceed  the  beauty  of  summer  and  autumn  in  this 
country,  where,  on  one  hand,  wre  have  the  expansive  prai 
rie  strewed  with  flowers  still  growing ;  and  on  the  other, 
the  forests  which  skirt  it,  presenting  all  the  varieties  of  color 
incident  to  the  fading  foliage  of  a  thousand  different  trees. 

About  the  middle  of  October  or  beginning  of  Novem 
ber,  the  Indian  Summer  commences,  and  continues  from 
fifteen  to  twenty  days.     During  this  time,  the  weather  is 
"'21  " 


242  WESTERN    PORTRAITURE. 

bland  but  languid,  the  atmosphere  is  smoky,  and  the  sun 
and  moon  give  a  mellowed  light,  and  are  sometimes  al 
most  totally  obscured.  It  is  generally  supposed  that  this 
is  caused  by  the  burning  of  the  withered  grass  and  herbs 
on  the  extensive  prairies  of  the  north  and  west,  which 
also  accounts  for  its  increased  duration  as  we  proceed 
westward.  The  softened  lights,  the  serene  breezes,  and 
the  mystic  haziness,  wrhich  envelops  every  thing,  and 
seems  to  place  all  objects  at  an  unusual  remoteness  from 
the  observer,  during  the,  not  sad,  but  pensive  season  of 
Indian  Summer,  is  like  the  approach  of  a  good  man's  last 
days,  as  he  looks  toward  the  grave,  after  a  useful  and  up 
right  life,  ripened  into  usefulness ;  and  through  the  mystic 
clouds  of  death  the  sun  is  but  dimly  seen ;  yet,  his  bright 
ness  beyond  is  no  less  certain,  to  this  good  man's  antici 
pations — he  sees  his  heavenly  reward  garnered  in  man 
sions  where  thieves  steal  not,  as  is  faintly  and  imperfectly 
emblemmed  by  the  bountiful  harvest  which  is  now  stored 
in  the  granaries  of  the  faithful  husbandman,  for  winter's 
need. 

"  I  saw  an  aged  man  upon  his  bier  : 

His  hair  was  thin  and  white,  and  on  his  brow 
A  record  of  the  cares  of  many  a  year — 

Cares  that  were  ended  and  forgotten  now— 
And  there  was  sadness  round  and  faces  bowed, 
And  women's  tears  fell  fast  and  children  wailed  aloud. 

"  Why  weep  ye  so  for  him,  who  having  run 

The  bound  of  man's  appointed  years,  at  last, 
Life's  blessings  all  enjoyed,  life's  labors  all  done, 

Serenely  to  his  final  rest  has  passed, 
While  the  soft  memory  of  his  virtues  yet 
Lingers,  like  twilight  hues,  when  the  bright  sun  is  set?" 

Persons  who  have  not  lived  in  Illinois,  to  know  by  per 
sonal  observation,  may  judge  something  of  the  climate  and 
seasons  in  that  region,  from  the  following  statement : 

For  the  last  fifteen  years,  in  Central  Illinois,  peach  trees 
have  blossomed,  at  different  dates  in  the  several  years, 


CLIMATE TEMPERATURE FROSTS.  243 

from  the  25th  of  March  to  the  20th  of  April.  Strawber 
ries  blossomed  about  the  same  time.  Apple  trees  put 
forth  leaves  from  the  1st  to  the  20th  of  April ;  they  blos 
som  from  the  10th  of  April  to  the  3d  of  May,  and  meet 
with  no  after  frosts. 

Prairies  began  to  be  green  and  furnish  pasture  from  the 
10th  of  March  to  the  15th  of  April.  Forests  put  forth 
leaves,  half  size,  from  the  5th  of  April  to  the  10th  of  May  ; 
full  size  from  the  22d  of  April  to  the  14th  of  May. 

Last  frosts  in  spring,  from  as  early  as  the  16th  of  April 
to  as  late  as  the  7th  of  May. 

During  the  same  period,  the  earliest  frost  of  autumn 
was  about  the  17th  of  September,  and  some  years  it  did 
not  appear  till  as  late  as  the  23d  of  October ;  and  from 
year  to  year  alternating  between  those  dates.  So  that  the 
seasons  are  uniformly  long  enough  to  ripen  the  large  Mis 
sissippi  corn,  which  requires  three  to  four  weeks  more 
time  than  the  varieties  of  corn  usually  grown  in  New 
York  and  New  England.  On  the  rich  prairies  and  river 
bottoms,  this  corn  often  grows  to  the  hight  of  13  to  15 
feet,  with  three  ears  to  the  stalk ;  frequently  yielding  from 
70  to  100  bushels  per  acre.  From  30  to  70  bushels  of 
oats  ;  20  to  40  bushels  of  wheat ;  and  300  to  600  bushels 
of  potatoes  per  acre  are  obtained. 

From  the  latitude  of  the  mouth  of  Rock  river,  down  to 
the  latitude  of  the  mouth  of  Illinois  river,  the  climate,  in 
blandness  and  freedom  from  frost,  is  as  favorable  as  at 
New  York  or  Long  Island ;  and  the  more  delicate  or  ten 
der  fruits  may  be  raised  as  successfully,  and  of  as  good 
flavors,  if  the  same  care  and  labor  is  put  forth  to  procure 
the  best  varieties,  and  then  in  culturing  them.  Melons, 
peas,  raddishes,  and  squashes,  come  forward  as  early,  and 
of  as  good  quality,  as  those  raised  on  Long  Island  or  the 
Jersey  shore. 

The  following  statements  of  population,  etc.,  in  the  coun- 


244  WESTERN    PORTRAITURE. 

ties  are  taken  mostly  from  the  United  States  census  re 
turns  of  1850 : 

Alexander  is  the  most  southern  county  in  the  State,  and 
comprises  the  peninsula  between  the  Mississippi  and  Ohio 
rivers ;  in  which  Cairo  and  Unity  are  situated  ;  it  is  well 
timbered,  the  soil  fertile  but  low,  and  parts  of  it  subject  to 
inundation ;  and  is  watered  by  Cash  river,  a  small  stream 
emptying  into  the  Ohio.  Population,  2,484;  dwellings, 
455  ;  farms,  202*;  manufactories,  8. 

Its  county-seat  is  THEBES,  situafed  on  the  east  bank  of 
the  Mississippi.  In  this  county,  near  this  ancient  city,  is 
a  circular  lake,  called  Horseshoe  lake  from  its  shape. 

Adams  county,  and  QUINCY,  its  county-seat,  were  de 
scribed  in  the  Mississippi  tour ;  it  is  a  superior  county  of 
land,  and  QUINCY,  one  of  the  finest  cities  in  the  State ;  pop 
ulation  between  six  and  seven  thousand.  Population  of 
county,  26,508  ;  dwellings,  4,459 ;  farms,  2,294  ;  manu 
factories,  118.  Ashton,  Fairfield,  Columbus,  and  Liberty, 
are  among  the  other  towns  of  this  county. 

Bond  county  is  watered  by  Kaskaskia  river  and  its 
branches ;  the  surface  is  gently  undulating,  with  a  due 
proportion  of  prairie  and  timbered  land ;  some  coal  is 
found  in  this  county  .along  the  banks  of  Shoal  creek.  Pop 
ulation,  6,144;  dwellings,  1,070;  farms, -665;  manufac 
tories,  17. 

GREENVILLE,  a  pleasant  and  thriving  town,  located  on 
the  east  fork  of  Shoal  creek,  is  the  county-seat. 

JBoone  county  lies  on  the  north  line  of  the  State,  and  is 
watered  by  the  Kishwaukee,  Piscasaw,  Peckatonica,  and 
other  smaller  streams.  The  soil  is  of  the  best  quality, 
undulating,  and  divided  between  prairies  and  timber;  and 
in  general  agricultural  resources,  is  scarcely  inferior  to  any 
county  in  the  State.  Population,  7,626  ;  dwellings,  1,352 ; 
farms,  897  ;  manufactories,  17. 

BELVIDERE,  the  county-seat,  is  a  pleasant  town,  situated 


ILLINOIS COUNTIES.  247 

S.  has  had  a  long  and  extensive  acquaintance  in  the  West, 
is  a  gentlemanly,  reliable  business  man,  and  is  largely 
connected  with  such  business.  Population  of  Cook  county, 
43,385;  dwellings,  7,674;  farms,  1,857;  manufactories, 
2:27.  Other  towns  are  Wheeling  and  Gross  Point. 

Cumberland  county  is  located  west  of  Clarke,  and  is  wa 
tered  by  the  Embarrass  and  its  branches ;  it  is  a  small,  new 
county,  and  contains  considerable  prairie,  with  some  tim 
ber.  Population.  3,720;  dwellings,  634;  farms,  326; 
shops,  5. 

GREENUP  is  the  county-seat,  a  young  and  growing  town, 
well  situated  on  the  Embarrass  river.  Woodbury  is  ano 
ther  town  in  this  county. 

Clarke  county  is  situated  on  the  Wabash,  opposite  to 
Terre  Haute,  Indiana ;  it  is  watered  by  the  north  fork  of 
the  Embarrass,  and  contains  both  prairie  and  timbered 
land,  of  good  soil.  Population,  9,532;  dwellings,  1,621 ; 
farms,  636 ;  manufactories,  14. 

DARWIN,  county-seat,  is  a  flourishing  town  on  the  Wa 
bash.  Marshall,  on  the  National  Road,  was  formerly  the 
county-seat.  Martinsville,  Livingston,  Melrose,  etc.,  are 
other  towns. 

Clay  county  is  a  small  one,  on  the  Little  Wabash ;  its 
land  is  of  a  good  quality,  and  divided  between  timber  and 
prairie.  Population,  4,289  ;  dwellings,  715  ;  farms,  237 ; 
manufactories,  6. 

MAYSVILLE,  county-seat,  is  situated  on  the  border  of 
Twelvemile  Prairie,  near  the  Little  Wabash.  Louisville 
and  other  towns  are  in  the  county. 

Clinton  county  is  watered  by  the  Kaskaskia  river, 
Shoal  and  Sugar  creeks ;  its  land  is  good  prairie  and  tim 
ber.  Population,  5,139;  dwellings,  947;  farms,  628; 
manufactories,  8. 

CARLYSLE,  the  county-seat,  is  situated  on  the  west  bank 
of  the  Kaskaskia,  and  is  a  thriving  town. 


'248  WESTERN    PORTRAITURE. 

Coles  county  lies  in  the  eastern  part  of  the  state,  and  is 
watered  by  the  Embarrass,  and  head  waters  of  the  Kas- 
kaskia,  which  in  some  places  afford  good  mill-sites ;  the 
land  is  rolling,  divided  between  prairie  and  timber.  Popu 
lation,  9,335;  dwellings,  1,571  ;  farms,  996;  shops,  6. 

CHARLESTON  is  the  county-seat,  handsomely  situated  on 
Grand  Prairie,  near  the  Embarrass  river. 

Christian  county  is  one  of  the  new  counties,  and  is  wa 
tered  by  the  south  fork  of  Sangamon  river ;  it  contains 
much  fine  prairie  and  some  good  timber.  Population, 
3,202  ;  dwellings,  555  ;  farms,  434 ;  manufactories,  12. 

TAYLORVILLE  is  the  county-seat,  situated  on  the  river. 
Bethany,  Stonington,  Sylvan  Grove,  and  Mount  Auburn, 
are  other  fine  towns  in  this  county. 

Crawford  county  lies  on  the  Wabash  river,  and  contains 
a  large  proportion  of  good  prairie  land ;  its  streams  are 
the  branches  of  the  Wabash  and  Embarrass.  Population, 
7,135;  dwellings,  1,192;  farms,  542;  shops,  8. 

PALESTINE,  situated  on  a  fine  prairie,  is  the  county-seat. 
There  are  other  thriving  towns  in  the  county,  as  Robinson, 
Hutsonville,  and  York,  the  latter  on  the  Wabash. 

Carroll  county,  and  SAVANNAH,  were  noticed  in  the  tour 
up  the  Mississippi.  Population,  4,586 ;  dwellings,  814; 
farms,  482 ;  manufactories,  17. 

Edgar  county  lies  on  the  Wabash,  and  contains  portions 
of  prairie  and  timber  of  good  quality,  with  considerable 
good  cultivation.  Population,  10,692;  dwellings,  1,702; 
farms,  1,175;  manufactories,  38. 

PARIS,  the  county-seat,  is  advantageously  situated  on  a 
fine  prairie,  and  surrounded  by  good  farms.  Other  towns 
are  Bloomfield,  Ono,  Grandview,  and  Florence. 

Edwards  county  lies  on  the  Little  Wabash,  and  is  far 
ther  watered  by  the  Bon  Pas;  the  soil  is  mostly  high 
and  rolling  prairie,  \vith  some  timber.  Population,  3,524 ; 
dwellings,  595  ;  farms,  329  ;  manufactories,  7. 


COUNTIES TOWNS.  249 

ALBION,  the  county-seat,  occupies  a  healthy  and  hand 
some  position  on  a  high  prairie. 

Effingham  county  is  situated  on  the  Little  Wabash,  and 
embraces  considerable  good  land,  generally  very  level. 
Population,  3,799  ;  dwellings,  712  ;  forms,  391  ;  shops,  6. 

EWINGTON,  the  county-seat,  is  advantageously  situated 
on  the  National  Road.  Freemantown  is  another  village 
in  this  county. 

De  Kalb  is  a  long  county,  lying  in  the  north  part  of  the 
state,  and  west  of  Kane ;  it  is  watered  by  branches  of  the 
Kishwaukee  and  Fox  rivers ;  its  soil  consists  of  the  best 
kind  of  prairie,  with  some  good  timber,  and  a  rolling  sur 
face,  which  presents  many  fine  farms. 

SYCAMORE,  the  county-seat,  is  a  pleasant  town  on  the 
prairie,  near  a  clear  brook,  making  altogether  a  delightful 
location.  The  other  townis  of  the  county  are  Genoa,  Sy 
racuse,  and  Little  Rock. 

Dupage  county,  with  its  county-seat  NAPERVILLE,  are 
described  in  the  Canal  Route.  Population,  9,290  ;  dwell 
ings,  1,568 ;  farms,  960  ;  manufactories,  18.  Other  towns 
in  the  county  are  Brush  Hill  and  Cottage  Hill. 

De  Wilt  is  a  new  county,  and  lies  on  the  head  streams 
of  the  Sangamon  river ;  about  equally  divided  between 
timber  and  prairie  of  good  quality.  Population,  5,002 ; 
dwellings,  881  ;  farms,  482;  manufactories,  18. 

The  county-seat  is  DE  WITT,  situated  pleasantly  on  a 
prairie.  The  other  towns  are  Clinton,  Franklin,  Waynes- 
ville,  Marion,  and  Mount  Pleasant. 

Fayette  county  was  one  of  the  large  counties,  and  has 
been  divided  into  several ;  it  is  watered  by  the  Kaskaskia 
and  branches ;  portions  of  it  are  subject  to  inundations ; 
it  contains  both  good  timber  and  prairie.  Population, 
8,075;  dwellings,  1,431  ;  farms,  826;  manufactories,  4. 

VANDALIA,  formerly  capital  of  the  state,  situated  on  the 


250  WESTERN    PORTRAITURE. 

Kaskaskia,  is  the  county-seat.  There  are  some  other 
smaller  towns  in  the  county. 

Franklin  county  is  one  of  the  southern  counties  of  the 
state,  on  the  Big  Muddy  river,  and  branches  of  Saline 
creek  ;  it  is  heavily  timbered,  with  but  small  prairies ; 
portions  of  the  county  are  subject  to  inundations.  Popu 
lation,  5,681 ;  dwellings,  971 ;  farms,  577 ;  shops,  6. 

BENTON  is  the  county-seat,  situated  on  the  Big  Muddy. 
Frankfort  was  previously  county-seat. 

Fulton  is  a  very  wealthy  county,  and  occupies  a  portion 
of  the  Bounty  Tract,  west  of  Illinois  river;  the  land  is  of 
a  good  quality,  about  equally  divided  between  timber  and 
prairie,  and  is  wratered  by  Spoon  river  and  Apple  creek ; 
it  contains  many  thriving  villages  and  superior  farms,  as 
Fairview,  Bernadotte,  Farmington,  Liverpool,  Canton, 
Utica,  and  others.  Population,  22,508  ;  dwellings,  3,811 ; 
farms,  1,942;  manufactories,  104. 

LEWISTON,  the  county-seat,  is  a  growing  town,  situated 
in  the  midst  of  good  timber,  west  of  Illinois  river.  Ful 
ton  is  one  of  the  most  thriving  counties  in  the  state,  having 
a  triangular  form,  its  longest  side  lying  along  Illinois  river. 

Gallatin  county  is  located  in  the  southeast  corner  of  the 
state,  at  the  junction  of  the  Wabash  with  the  Ohio  ;  it 
contains  a  large  proportion  of  timbered  land,  which  is  par 
ticularly  valuable  on  account  of  its  contiguity  to  the  salt 
springs :  these  are  situated  on  Saline  creek,  about  20 
miles  above  its  junction  with  the  Ohio  river.  The  princi 
pal  spring  was  formerly  possessed  by  the  Indians,  who 
called  it  the  "Great  Salt  Spring:"  and  it  appears  that 
they  had  been  long  acquainted  with  the  method  of  making 
salt.  Large  fragments  of  earthen-ware  are  continually 
found  near  the  works,  both  on  and  under  the  surface  of  the 
earth.  They  have  on  them  the  impression  of  basket  or 
wicker  work.'  These  Salines  furnish  quantities  of  salt  for 
home  consumption,  but  little  for  exportation. 


SALINES COUNTIES TOWNS.  251 

In  a  treaty  between  the  United  States,  and  the  Dela 
ware,  Shawanee,  Pottawattomee,  Eel  River,  Weea,  Kicka- 
poo,  and  Piankasaw  Indians,  at  FORT  WAYNE,  on  the  7th 
of  June,  1803,  this  Saline  was  ceded  to  the  United  States, 
with  a  quantity  of  land,  not  exceeding  four  miles,  sur 
rounding  it ;  in  consideration  of  which,  the  United  States 
engaged  to  deliver  annually  to  the  said  Indians  a  quantity 
of  salt  not  exceeding  150  bushels,  to  be  divided  among 
the  several  tribes  in  such  a  manner  as  the  General  Council 
of  Chiefs  should  determine.  For  a  number  of  years  it 
was  possessed  by  the  United  States,  with  a  reservation  of 
161  sections  of  land  in  the  vicinity,  the  whole  of  which  were 
ceded  in  1818  to  the  State  of  Illinois,  by  whom  it  was 
leased  to  different  individuals  for  about  10,000  dollars  per 
annum.  The  works  are  situated  on  section  20,  township 
9,  south  range  8,  east  of  the  third  principal  meridian. 
Saline  river  is  navigable  to  the  works,  and  the  surplus  salt 
is  thus  shipped  to  Southern  markets. 

This  part  of  Illinois  is  well  adapted  to  the  growth  of 
stock ;  large  amounts  of  horses,  beef,  pork,  cattle,  lumber, 
and  tobacco,  are  sent  out  of  the  county.  Population, 
5,448  ;  dwellings.  1,000  ;  farms,  570  ;  manufactories,  17. 

The  seat  of  justice  is  EQUALITY,  on  the  east  side  of 
Saline  creek.  It  is  situated  in  the  midst  of  the  salt  manu 
factories,  fourteen  miles  northeast  from  Shawneetown, 
which  is  the  principal  commercial  depot  in  the  southern 
part  of  Illinois,  and  is  situated  on  the  west  bank  of  the 
Ohio,  some  miles  below  the  mouth  of  the  W abash ;  and 
it  will  be  recollected  that  Shawneetown  is  distinguished 
with  the  history  of  the  Illinois  State  Bank. 

Greene  county  is  located  on  the  east  bank  of  the  Illinois, 
and  is  watered  by  Apple  and  Macoupin  creeks ;  it  con 
tains  a  large  proportion  of  timber,  with  small  undulating 
prairies,  constituting  beautiful  landscapes.  Population, 
12,429  ;  dwellings,  2,024 ;  farms,  1,155  ;  manufactories,  27. 


252  WESTERN    PORTRAITURE. 

CARROLTON  is  the  county-seat,  situated  in  the  midst  of  a 
fine  prairie,  and  is  a  flourishing  town.  There  are  several 
other  fine  towns  in  the  county,  as  Albany,  Bluffdale, 
Fayette,  Greenfield,  Newton,  Kane,  Whitehall,  and  others. 

Grundy,  a  new  county,  with  MORRIS  its  county-seat,  are 
described  in  the  Canal  district. 

Hamilton  county  is  watered  by  Little  W abash  river  and 
Saline  creek  ;  and  contains  both  timber  and  prairie.  Pop 
ulation,  6,362  ;  dwellings,  1,058  ;  farms,  417  ;  shops,  6. 

MCLEANSBORO  is  the  county-seat,  and  situated  in  the 
edge  of  timber  and  prairie,  on  the  high  ground  at  the  head 
waters  of  the  Saline. 

Hancock  county,  and  CARTHAGE,  are  described  in  the 
Mississippi  tour.  Population,  14,652 ;  dwellings,  2.585  ; 
farms,  1,167;  manufactories,  43. 

Henry  county  was  laid  oft*  from  Knox,  and  is  watered  by 
Rock  and  Green  rivers ;  its  lands  are  good,  consisting  of 
fair  portions  of  prairie  and  grove ;  and  presents  many  fine 
farms.  Population,  3,807  ;  dwellings,  772  ;  farms,  281. 

CAMBRIDGE,  the  county-seat,  is  situated  in  a  pleasant 
prairie.  Geneseo,  Andover,  Richmond,  Oxford,  Lagrange, 
and  others,  are  the  principal  towns. 

Henderson  is  a  new  county,  lying  on  the  Mississippi,  and 
in  the  Bounty  Tract ;  it  is  watered  by  Henderson  river, 
and  several  creeks ;  the  land  is  of  good  quality,  both  prairie 
and  timber.  Population,  4.612  ;  dwellings,  805  ;  farms, 
420 ;  manufactories.  27. 

OQUAWKA,  the  county-seat,  is  situated  on  the  Mississippi, 
and  is  a  place  of  considerable  business ;  Henderson,  Ben- 
ton,  Warren,  and  other  towns  are  in  this  county. 

Hardirt  county  is  a  new  one,  taken  off  from  Pope,  and 
located  in  the  southeast  part  of  the  State,  on  the  Ohio ;  its 
lands  are  fair,  both  prairie  jind  timber;  and  is  drained  by 
Saline  river. 

Th^  Cave  in  Rock  is  well  known  to  all  navigators  of  the 


ROCK    CAVE.  253 

Ohio  river ;  it  is  situated  on  the  bank  of  the  west  river, 
about  30  miles  below  the  mouth  of  the  Wabash.  It  is  a 
large  cave,  supposed  by  the  Indians  to  be  the  habitation  of 
the  Great  Spirit. 

The  following  description  of  this  cave  is  given  by  Thad- 
deus  M.  Harris,  an  English  tourist,  who  visited  it  in  the 
spring  of  1803 : 

"For  about  three  or  four  miles  before  you  come  to  this  place, 
you  are  presented  with  a  scene  truly  romantic.  On  the  Illinois 
side  of  the  river,  you  see  large  ponderous  rocks  piled  one  upon  an 
other,  of  different  colors,  shapes,  and  sizes.  Some  appear  to  have 
gone  through  the  hands  of  the  most  skillful  artist ;  some  represent 
the  ruins  of  ancient  edifices  ;  others  thrown  promiscuously  in  and 
out  of  the  river,  as  if  nature  intended  to  show  us  with  what  ease 
she  could  handle  those  mountains  of  solid  rock.  In  some  places 
you  see  purling  streams  winding  their  course  down  their  rugged 
front ;  while  in  others,  the  rocks  project  so  far,  that  they  seem  almost 
disposed  to  leave  their  doubtful  situations.  After  a  short  relief 
from  this  scene,  you  come  to  a  second,  which  is  something  similar 
to  the  first;  and  here,  with  strict  scrutiny,  you  can  discover  the 
cave.  Before  its  mouth  stands  a  delightful  grove  of  cypress  trees, 
arranged  immediately  on  the  bank  of  the  river.  They  have  a  fine 
appearance,  and  add  much  to  the  cheerfulness  of  the  place. 

"  The  mouth  of  the  cave  is  but  a  few  feet  above  the  ordinary  level 
of  the  river,  and  is  formed  by  a  semicircular  arch  of  about  80  feet 
at  its  base,  and  25  feet  in  hight,  the  top  projecting  considerably 
over,  forming  a  regular  concave.  From  the  entrance  to  the  ex 
tremity,  which  is  about  180  feet,  it  has  a  regular  and  gradual  as 
cent.  On  either  side  is  a  solid  bench  of  rock ;  the  arch  coming  to 
a  point  about  the  middle  of  the  cave,  where  you  discover  an  open 
ing  sufficiently  large  to  receive  the  body  of  a  man,  through  which 
comes  a  small  stream  of  fine  water,  made  use  of  by  those  who  visit 
this  place.  From  this  hole  a  second  cave  is  discovered,  whose  di 
mensions,  form,  etc.,  are  not  known.  The  rock  is  of  limestone. 
The  sides  of  the  cove  are  covered  with  inscriptions,  names  of  per 
sons,  dates,  etc.  Part  of  the  trees  have  been  cut  down,  and  the 
entrance  into  the  cave  exposed  to  view.'' 

In  1797.  this  cave,  was  the  place  of  resort  and  security 
to  Mason,  a  notorious  robber,  and  his  gang,  who  were  ac- 
oo 


254  WESTERN    PORTRAITURE. 

customed  to  plunder  and  murder  the  crews  of  boats,  while 
descending  the  Ohio  ;  and  has  been  a  place  of  concealment, 
resorted  to^by  thieves  and  robbers,  even  at  a  much  more 
recent  period,  as  the  pioneers  in  that  region,  and  unfortu 
nate  boatmen  on  the  river,  often  attest  to  their  loss.  Pop 
ulation  of  Hardin  county,  2,887  ;  dwellings,  2,585  ;  farms, 
1,167, 

ELIZABETH  is  the  county-seat,  a  flourishing  village  on  the 
Ohio.  There  are  some  other  towns  in  this  county,  as 
Twitchelburg,  Illinois  Furnace,  and  Rockincave.  The  Ten 
nessee  river  enters  the  Ohio  opposite  this  county.  The 
general  aspect  of  the  river  shores,  through  most  of  this  sec 
tion  of  country,  presents  many  curious  objects  to  the  eye 
of  the  traveler. 

Iroquois  county  is  located  on  the  east  border  of  the 
State ;  it  is  watered  by  Iroquois  river,  and  several  creeks ; 
the  land  is  mostly  good  prairie,  with  some  timber  and  sand 
ridges.  Population.  4,149  ;  dwellings,  718;  farms,  387. 

MONTGOMERY  is  the  county-seat,  pleasantly  situated  on 
the  south  bank  of  the  Iroquois.  Among  the  other  towns, 
are  Milford  and  Iroquois  City. 

Jackson  county  is  in  the  southern  part  of  the  State,  on 
the  Mississippi ;  it  is  watered  by  the  Big  Muddy  river  ; 
the  surface  of  the  county  is  mostly  timbered,  though  it 
contains  many  prairies.  Muddy  river,  running  through  the 
interior  of  the  county,  is  navigable  for  a  considerable  dis 
tance,  and  affords  to  the  inhabitants  every  facility  for  ex 
porting  their  surplus  produce.  On  this  stream  there  is  a 
saline,  or  salt  spring,  where  considerable  quantities  of  salt 
are  manufactured.  A  large  body  of  excellent  coal  exists 
on  this  stream.  The  bed  is  said  to  be  inexhaustible. 

The  Fountain  Bluff,  frequently  called  the  "  Big  Hill,"  in 
the  southwest  corner  of  the  county,  is  a  singularly  formed 
eminence,  on  the  Mississippi,  eight  miles  above  the  mouth 
of  the  Big  Muddy.  It  is  of  an  oval  shape,  six  miles  in  cir- 


FOUNTAIN    BLUFF.  255 

cumference,  and  with  an  elevation  of  300  feet.  The  west- 
ern  side  is  on  the  river,  and  the  top  is  broken,  full  of  sink 
holes,  with  shrubs  and  scattering  trees.  The  north  side  is 
nearly  perpendicular  rock,  but  the  south  side  is  sloping, 
and  ends  in  a  fine  rich  tract  of  soil,  covered  with  farms. 
East  is  an  extensive  and  low  bottom,  with  lakes  and 
swamps.  Fine  springs  of  limpid  water  gush  out  from  the 
foot  of  this  bluff  on  all  sides.  Population,  5,862 ;  dwell 
ings,  1,038;  farms,  604;  manufactories,  23. 

MURPHRYSBORO  is  the  county-seat,  situated  on  the  Big 
Muddy,  a  thriving  town;  Brownville  was  formerly  the 
county-seat;  Vergennes  and  Liberty  are  other  towns  of 
this  county. 

Jasper  county  lies  on  the  Embarrass,  and  is  also  water 
ed  by  some  other  streams ;  it  contains  fertile  tracts  of  prai 
rie  and  timber,  with  some  wet  lands.  Population,  3,220  ; 
dwellings,  588 ;  farms,  283. 

NEWTON,  situated  on  the  Embarrass,  is  the  county-seat ; 
Ste.  Marie  and  Rosehill  are  two  other  villages  in  this 
county. 

Jefferson  county  contains  a  large  proportion  of  prairie, 
and  lies  about  half  way  between  the  Mississippi  and  Wa- 
bash;  it  is  watered  by  Big  Muddy  and  Little  Wabash. 
Population,  8,109;  dwellings,  1,368;  farms,  470;  manu 
factories,  2. 

MOUNT  VERNON,  the  county-seat,  is  situated  on  a  small 
stream  in  the  edge  of  a  fine  prairie,  and  is  a  pleasant,  thriv 
ing  village. 

Jo  Daviess,  and  GALENA,  are  described  in  the  Mineral 
region.  Population,  18,604.  Persons  visiting  Galena,  or 
this  county,  for  the  purpose  of  buying  lands,  or  lots,  or 
speculating  in  lead,  will  do  w^ell  to  call  on  Mr.  WILLIAM 
UEMPSTEAD,  a  gentleman  of  long  experience  in  this  region, 
and  an  excellent,  reliable  business  man  ;  having  his  office 
in  Galena. 


256  WESTERN     PORTRAITURE. 

Ill  prospecting  and  sinking  shafts  for  the  lead  mineral, 
or  galena — which  is  the  most  proper  name — after  pene 
trating  the  earth  from  40  to  70  and  even  100  feet,  the 
miner  sometimes  finds  himself  in  caverns,  of  different  di 
mensions,  from  the  size  of  a  small  room  to  that  of  several 
rods  in  extent,  Sometimes  he  strikes  a  crevice,  which 
affords  space  barely  sufficient  to  crowd  the  body  through, 
and, this  passage  often  leads  to  a  cavern. 

Many  of  these  subterranean  apartments  present  scenes 
of  curious  and  brilliant  splendor ;  from  the  various  crystal- 
izations  found  in  them ;  with  various  representations  of 
carbonate  of  lime.  Calcareous  spar,  in  great  diversity  and 
beauty  of  form,  is  found  in  considerable  quantities,  in  some 
of  the  richest  mineral-bearing  of  these  caves  or  grottos. 
Sometimes  it  is  found  in  the  form  of  stalactites,  suspended 
from  the  roof  and  sides,  in  the  shape  of  leaves,  vines,  fin 
gers,  icicles,  and  birds;  and  generally  of  the  purest  white, 
with  a  velvety  surface,  though  often  more  angular  and 
sparkling,  like  broken  glass  or  smalt;  and  some  of  it  is 
clear  and  porous  like  coarse  snow  glistening  in  the  sun. 
Another  sort  is  more  properly  called  stalagmites  ;  this  is 
found  on  the  bottoms  of  the  caves,  where  the  impregnated 
or  carbonated  water  has  dripped  through  and  fallen  to  the 
ground,  and  becomes  crystalized  in  the  shape  of  small  ani 
mals,  birds,  vegetables,  and  other  objects ;  it  is  generally 
pure,  sparkling  white,  but  often  becomes  a  calcareous  ala 
baster,  variegated  beautifully  by  different  coloring  matters, 
which  become  incorporated  into  it  from  the  earth. 

The  most  extensive,  as  well  as  most  elegant  and  various 
specimens,  which  I  have  ever  seen,  were  procured  from  the 
rich  caves  discovered  by  Mr.  LEVINS,  of  Dubuque.  It  is 
worth  the  trouble  of  a  short  journey  to  examine  his  large 
cabinet  of  these  beautiful  cavern  jewels. 

In  some  of  the  caves,  more  particularly  in  the  vicinity 
of  the  copper  mines,  the  sulphates  of  lime  are  found  in  dif- 


COUNTIES TOWNS.  257 

ferent  forms,  such  as  opaque  plaster  and  gypsum;  and 
sometimes  in  handsome  transparent  and  crystalized  forms, 
as  selenites  and  alabastrites ;  which  are  generally  of  a 
pure  sparkling  white  ;  but  other  specimens  are  of  diversi 
fied  hues,  like  the  stalagmites,  and  other  carbonated  vari 
eties. 

The  richest  and  most  abundant  lead  mineral  is  generally 
found  in  caves,  beneath  an  earth  whose  drippings  are  fruit 
ful  with  these  beautiful  spars ;  it  is  generally  a  clay  or  marl 
soil,  in  which  alluminum  constitutes  a  large  ingredient,  and 
where  soap-clay  is  found  in*  abundance,  of  curiously  diversi 
fied  colors.  To  many  persons  this  soap-clay  is  quite  a  cu 
riosity.  In  some  cases  this  clay  is  known  to  extract  grease 
from  silk  and  linen  cloths.  It  can  be  easily  cut  or  modeled 
into  various  forms  and  images,  and  hardens  when  dried — 
but  slakes  into  fragments,  when  exposed  to  outside  air. 

Johnson  county  is  the  middle  one  of  three  counties,  the 
the  other  two  being  Pope  and  Hardin — which,  in  the 
southern  part  of  the  State,  reach  from  the  Ohio  to  the 
Mississippi ;  it  is  watered  by  Cash  and  Cedar  creeks  ;  it 
contains  but  little  prairie,  and  much  timber,  though  gene 
rally  level  land.  Population.  4,103;  dwellings,  718; 
farms,  301 ;  manufactories,  4. 

VIENNA,  the  county-seat,  is  a  pleasant  little  village,  on 
Cash  creek. 

Jersey  is  a  new  county,  lying  on  the  Mississippi  and 
Illinois  rivers,  at  the  mouth  of  the  latter ;  it  is  watered  by 
Macoupin  and  other  creeks ;  it  contains  prairie  and  timber 
of  good  quality.  Population,  7,354;  dwellings,  1,222; 
farms,  645 ;  manufactories,  44. 

PERRYSVILLE  is  the  county-seat,  situated  on  a  small  creek 
in  the  prairie. 

Kane  county  is  one  of  the  best  populated  and  cultivated 
counties  in  the  state,  situated  in  the  northern  part,  with  Fox 
river  running  through  its  entire  length,  from  north  to 


258  WESTERN    PORTRAITURE. 

south ;  furnishing  numerous  water-powers,  and  abundance 
of  good  limestone ;  its  soil  is  generally  of  the  best  kind 
of  rolling  prairies,  sprinkled  over  with  handsome  groves 
and  strips  of  timber.  Population,  16,703 ;  dwellings, 
2,828  ;  farms,  1,015  ;  manufactories,  49. 

GENEVA,  the  county-seat,  is  a  beautiful  and  busy  little 
village  on  Fox  river.  Aurora,  St.  Charles,  Elgin,  Batavia, 
and  Dundee,  are  other  villages  on  Fox  river,  in  this 
county,  with  from  1,000  to  4,000  inhabitants;  they  con 
tain  various  excellent  mills  and  other  machinery.  These 
towns  are  much  settled  with  people  from  New  York. 

Knox  county  is  in  the  Bounty  Tract,  and  watered  by 
Spoon  river ;  it  is  a  good  county  of  land  with  prairie  and 
timber.  Population,  13,279 ;  dwellings,  2,193 ;  farms, 
619  ;  manufactories,  100. 

KNOXVILLE,  county-seat,  occupies  an  elevated  position 
on  Haw  creek.  At  Galesburg  is  Knox  College,  an  in 
stitution  of  a  useful  and  high  order ;  Trenton,  Abigton, 
and  other  villages  are  in  this  county. 

Kendall  is  a  new  county,  with  Fox  river  running  diag 
onally  through  it  from  northeast  to  southwest;  it  is  a 
splendid  prairie  county.  Population,  7,730 ;  dwellings, 
1,258  ;  farms,  659. 

YORKVILLE,  the  county-seat,  is  situated  on  Fox  river. 
The  other  thriving  towns  are  Oswego,  Newark,  Bristol, 
Lisbon,  and  Penfield. 

La  Salle  county  lies  on  both  sides  of  the  Illinois  river ; 
and  for  agricultural  purposes  compares  favorably  with 
any  in  the  state ;  but  like  many  other  parts  of  the  state 
it  is  deficient  in  timber ;  still,  this  is  much  supplied  by 
abundant  coal  beds.  For  a  long  time  this  county  em 
braced  what  is  now  Grundy  and  Kendall  counties.  Al 
though  I  have  before  given  a  partial  description  of  this 
county,  the  following  items  will  be  none  the  less  accept 
able  to  the  reader. 


COUNTIES TOWNS INDIANS.  259 

Starved  Rock,  situated  in  the  left  bank  of  the  Illinois, 
some  six  or  eight  miles  below  OTTOWA,  and  which  attracts 
attention,  is  a  perpendicular  mass  of  lime  and  sandstone, 
washed  by  the  river,  and  elevated  150  feet  above  it.  Its 
perpendicular  sides,  rising  from  the  river,  are  inaccessible. 
It  is  connected  with  a  chain  of  hights  that  extend  up  the 
stream,  by  a  narrow  ledge,  the  only  ascent  to  which  is  by 
a  winding  and  precipitous  path.  The  diameter  of  the 
top  of  the  rock  is  about  100  feet;  it  is  covered  with  a 
soil  of  some  depth,  which  has  produced  a  growth  of 
young  trees ;  with  the  bare  rocks  cropping  out  in  some 
places.  The  advantages  which  it  affords  as  an  impreg 
nable  retreat,  induced  a  band  of  Illinois  Indians,  seeking 
refuge  from  the  fury  of  the  Potawattomies.  with  whom 
they  were  at  war,  to  intrench  themselves  here.  They  re 
pulsed  all  the  assaults  of  their  besiegers,  and  would  have 
remained  masters  of  their  high  tower,  but  for  the  impos 
sibility  of  obtaining  supplies  of  water.  They  had  se 
cured  provisions,  but  their  only  resource  for  the  former 
was  by  letting  down  vessels  with  bark  ropes  to  the  river. 
Their  enemies  stationed  themselves  in  canoes  at  the  base 
of  the  cliffs,  and  cut  off  the  ropes  as  fast  as  they  were  let 
down.  The  consequence  of  this  was  the  entire  extirpation 
of  the  band.  Many  years  afterward,  their  bones  were 
whitening  on  the  summit. 

An  intrenchment,  corresponding  to  the  edge  of  the  pre 
cipice,  is  distinctly  visible ;  and  fragments  of  antique 
pottery,  and  other  curious  remains  of  the  vanished  race, 
are  strewn  around.  From  this  elevated  point,  the  Illinois 
river  may  be  traced  as  it  winds  through  deep  and  solitary 
forests  or  outspread  plains,  until  it  disappears  from  the 
vision  in  the  distance.  In  the  opposite  direction,  a  prairie 
stretches  out  and  blends  with  the  horizon,  encompassing  a 
most  beautiful  and  romantic  range. 

On  Indian  creek,  in  the  northern  part  of  the  county,  a 


260  WESTERN    PORTRAITURE. 

most  horrible  tragedy  was  enacted,  at  the  commencement 
of  the  Indian  war  of  1832.  On  the  20th  of  May,  of  that 
year,  fifteen  persons  belonging  to  the  families  of  Messrs. 
Hall,  Daviess,  and  Pettigrew,  were  massacred  by  the  In 
dians.  Two  young  ladies,  Misses  Halls,  were  taken  pris 
oners  and  afterward  redeemed,  and  two  young  lads  made 
their  escape.  The  bodies  of  men,  women,  and  children, 
were  shockingly  mutilated,  the  houses  of  the  settlers 
burned,  their  furniture  destroyed,  and  their  cattle  killed — 
all  in  daylight,  and  within  twenty  miles  of  a  large  force 
of  the  militia.  This  was  done  by  the  Indians  under  Black 
Hawk,  near  what  is  now  known  as  the  village  of  Lamoile, 
a  pleasant  location.  A  portion  of  that  band  were  exter 
minated  during  the  same  season  by  the  combined  forces 
of  United  States  troops  and  Illinois  militia,  and  the  re 
mainder  dispersed  over  the  prairies  west  of  the  Missis 
sippi. 

Persons  visiting  La  Salle  county,  for  the  purpose  of 
buying  lands  or  village  lots,  will  do  well  to  call  upon 
JOHN  L.  COATES,  Esq.,  at  Peru,  or  D.  L.  HOUGH,  Esq., 
at  La  Salle;  both  reliable  business  men,  and  well  ac 
quainted  with  that  part  of  the  country. 

Lawrence  county  is  located  in  the  eastern  part  of  the 
State,  on  the  W a bash ;  it  is  watered  by  the  Embarrass, 
and  contains  a  fair  proportion  of  prairie  and  timber,  with 
some  bad  sink  holes  and  swamps,  called  "  Devil's  Holes." 
Vincennes,  in  Indiana,  is  opposite  this  county.  Popula 
tion,  6,121 ;  dwellings,  1,057;  farms,  656;  manufactories, 
26. 

LAWRENCEVILLE,  situated  pleasantly  on  the  Embarrass, 
is  the  county-seat,  and  a  thriving  town. 

Near  by,  and  a  little  above  Starved  Rock,  is  another 
overhanging  ledge  of  precipitous  rocks,  called  Lover's  Leap  ; 
it  is  so  called  from  the  fact,  as  the  Indian  legend  goes,  that 
a  young  squaw,  of  the  besieging  tribe,  loved  and  was 


LOVER'S  LEAP BUFFALO  ROCK.          261 

affianced  to  a  young  brave  of  the  besieged  party.  She 
being  more  intensely  interested  in  the  desire  and  matters 
of  her  own  heart,  than  with  the  contest  of  the  tribe,  had 
devised  the  means  of  her  wild  lord's  escape,  and  they  fled 
together.  But  they  were  not  permitted  long  to  enjoy  the 
success  of  her  devoted  stratagem,  for  their  flight  was  very 
soon  discovered,  and  they  were  hotly  pursued,  until  they 
took  refuge  in  an  apparently  concealed  crevice  of  an  emi 
nence  some  mile  or  two  above  where  the  Illinois  were  con 
fined  ;  but  the  lovers  finding  themselves  discovered,  and 
unable  to  elude  their  pursuers,  at  once  mutually  resolved, 
rather  than  be  captured,  separated,  and  tortured,  that  they 
would  die  together,  that  their  spirits  might  take  flight  in 
company  to  the  more  peaceful  hunting  grounds  in  the  land 
of  spirits;  and  in  this  resolute  purpose  they  embraced, 
gazed  in  sad,  firm  earnestness  up  to  the  moon  and  stars,  at 
the  forests,  and  the  rushing  stream  below,  and  into  each 
others'  eyes,  then  encircled,  arm  in  arm,  they  made  the 
plunge  which  dashed  them,  crushed  and  broken,  down  the 
craggy  steep,  where  the  river  drank  their  blood  and  swal 
lowed  their  mangled  forms. 

And  ever  afterward,  in  the  misty  moonlight,  the  Indians 
could  see  the  pale  corpses  of  that  pair  hovering  around 
the  precipice,  and  hear  faint,  sad  meanings,  and  then  more 
exulting  shouts  and  songs. 

In  this  connection,  the  following  lines  from  a  poem  by 
HOSMER,  will  be  read  with  interest : 

"  There  is  a  place — a  lonely  place, 

Deep  in  the  forest  green  and  old  ; 
And  oaken  giants  interlace 
Their  boughs  above  the  fruitful  mold. 

"  Though  fled  have  many  weary  suns 

Since  rose  wild  yell  and  cry  of  fear  ; 
Its  bowers  the  roving  Indian  shuns 
When  belted  for  the  chase  of  deer." 


262  WESTERN    PORTRAITURE. 

"Linked  with  the  fair  enchanting  place 

Sad  legend  of  the  past  he  knows, 
And  with  a  deeply  troubled  face 

Wild,  watchful  looks  around  he  throws." 
*  *  *  * 

"  Wa-noo-sha  was  a  chieftain's  child, 

And  sweetest  flower  of  womanhood, 
That  ever  grew  untaught  and  wild 
Within  the  green-roof'd  mossy  wood. 

"  A  suitor,  hated  by  her  sire, 

Had  seen,  till  night's  chill  gloom  was  gone, 
And  moon  had  tipped  the  hills  with  fire, 
Love's  torch  in  her  bark  lodge  burn  on." 

It  is  a  custom  in  the  courtships  of  some  Indian  tribes 
for  the  young  chief  to  light  a  torch  and  place  it  in  the 
wigwam  where  his  love  sleeps ;  and  if  she  allow  it  to 
burn  on,  till  all  is  consumed,  he  understands  that  his  suit 
is  favorable  and  accepted ;  but  otherwise,  if  she  rise  and 
extinguish  it. 

Near  this  place,  rising  up  in  the  alluvial  plain,  on  the 
opposite  side  of  the  river,  is  another  curious  formation, 
some  100  feet  high,  called  Buffalo  Rock.  On  one  end  and 
side  it  is  grassy  and  accessible  for  cattle  to  depasture ;  but 
the  upper  end  and  right  bank  are  nearly  perpendicular 
craggy  rocks  setting  into  the  river.  It  used  to  be  a  prac 
tice  with  the  Indians  to  find  or  drive  herds  of  buffaloes 
into  this  promontory,  and  then  rush  with  fires  and  other 
frightening  devices  after  them  till  they  were  forced  in 
scores  to  plunge  over  the  beetling  precipice,  to  destruction, 
and  were  thus  secured  by  the  Indians. 

Livingston  county  is  watered  by  the  Vermillion  of  the 
Illinois ;  which  furnishes  good  water-power  and  coal  beds, 
lime  quarries  and  .sandstone;  it  contains  good  prairie, 
with  some  fine  tracts  of  timber,  among  which  are  maple  and 
walnut.  Population,  1,552;  dwellings,  261 ;  farms,  185. 

PONTIAC  is  the  county-seat,  a  thriving  village  on  the 
Vermillion.  There  are  some  other  smaller  towns  in  the 
county. 


COUNTIES TOWNS.  263 

Lake  county,  with  WAUKEGAN,  the  county-seat,  was 
partly  described  with  the  other  counties  on  the  Lake.  In 
this  county  are  several  handsome  small  lakes,  as  Pistakee, 
Lake  Zurich,  and  others.  On  the  borders  of  the  latter  is 
a  fine,  smart  little  village  of  the  same  name.  Popula 
tion,  14,226 ;  dwellings,  2,455  ;  farms,  1,595  ;  manufac 
tories,  43. 

Lee  is  a  new  county,  lying  on  Rock  river,  and  contains 
much  very  excellent  prairie,  with  some  timber  ;  the  river 
furnishes  some  water-powers  in  this  county.  Population, 
5,292 ;  dwellings,  905 ;  farms,  478 ;  manufactories,  12. 
The  Stageroad,  from  Peru  to  Galena,  crosses  Rock  river, 
at  Dixon. 

In  the  southeastern  part  of  Lee  county  are  two  pleasant 
and  valuable  groves,  with  fine  settlements  of  good  farmers 
in  and  around  them ;  one  is  known  as  Malugin's  Grove ; 
and  the  other,  as  Slial-le-na1  s  Grove ;  it  is  so  called  from 
an  Indian  Chief  of  that  name,  who  was  friendly  to  the 
whites,  and  rendered  good  and  timely  service  to  them,  in 
time  of  the  Black  Hawk  war,  by  keeping  a  watch  on  the 
stealth  and  advance  of  the  Indians,  and  giving  the  inhabit 
ants  warning  of  their  movements,  which,  in  some  instances, 
saved  the  whites  from  massacre. 

Shabbena  lives  in  this  grove ;  which,  with  a  tract  of 
prairie  adjoining  it,  was  reserved  and  donated  to  him  by 
the  Government ;  much  of  which,  however,  some  graceless 
villains  in  that  region  have  contrived  to  swindle  him  out 
of,  and  apparently  with  impunity.  He  is  now  very  old, 
and  is  a  man  of  noble  nature,  sagacity,  and  peaceful  dispo 
sitions  ;  and  is  justly  deserving  similar  honors  as  are  paid 
to  white  heroes  who  have  protected  or  rendered  service  to 
their  kind  in  times  of  conflict  and  danger. 

On  the  Stageroad  from  Aurora  to  Dixon  are  some  fine 
farms,  beside  several  small  and  growing  villages,  among 
which  are  Pawpaw,  Little  Rock,  Johnson's  Grove,  Inlet, 


264  WESTERN    PORTRAITURE. 

and  some  others.  And  from  Dixon  to  Galena  the  Stage- 
route  is  through  Buffalo  Grove,  Elhorn  and  Cherry  Groves, 
and  several  others,  all  pleasant  and  desirable  locations. 

DIXON  is  the  county-seat,  and  is  handsomely  situated 
on  Rock  river.  Lee  Center  is  a  pleasant  little  village,  on 
a  fine  prairie,  nearly  ceijtral  in  the  county. 

Logan  county  is  situated  on  Sangamon  river,  and  con 
tains  a  large  amount  of  prairie,  with  some  timber  and 
swamp.  Population,  5,128  ;  dwellings,  835  ;  farms,  476 ; 
manufactories,  14. 

POSTVILLE,  the  county-seat,  is  handsomely  situated  in  a 
bend  of  the  Sangamon. 

Marshall  county  is  a  new  one,  and  lies  on  both  sides  of 
the  Illinois,  and  contains  both  prairie  and  timber,  with 
some  bottom  land ;  it  is  watered  by  Sand  and  Crow 
creeks.  Population,  5,180  ;  dwellings,  1,132  ;  farms,  464; 
manufactories,  11. 

LACON,  on  the  Illinois,  is  the  county-seat ;  it  is  a  place 
of  considerable  business,  and,  like  most  of  the  towns  on 
that  river,  is  advancing  briskly. 

Mason  county  is  a  new  one,  lying  on  the  east  side  of 
the  Illinois,  and  north  of  Sangamon  river  ;  it  has  consider 
able  prairie,  with  some  timber  and  marsh.  Population, 
5,921  ;  dwellings,  1,041  ;  farms,  727;  manufactories,  3. 

BATH  is  the  county-seat,  pleasantly  situated  on  a  prairie. 
Havanna  is  a  shipping  town,  on  the  Illinois,  for  most  of 
this  county. 

Massac  is  one  of  the  new  counties,  in  a  bend  of  the 
Ohio  river,  opposite  the  mouth  of  the  Tennessee ;  it  is 
heavily  timbered  with  some  sloughs.  Population,  4,092 ; 
dwellings,  704  ;  farms,  385;  manufactories,  11. 

METROPOLIS  is  the  county-seat,  situated  on  the  Ohio 
river. 

Menard  county  is  located  on  Sangamon  river,  and  em 
braces  prairie  and  timber  of  good  quality.  Population, 


COUNTIES TOWNS.  265 

6,349;    dwellings,    1,035;    farms,    706;    manufactories, 
38. 

PETERSBURG  is  the  county-seat,  pleasantly  situated  on 
the  Sangamon. 

Macoupin  county  lies  north  of  Madison,  and  is  watered 
by  Macoupin  river,  its  tributaries,  and  Otter  creek ;  it  is 
a  good  county  of  land,  mostly  prairie,  and  settled  by  a 
worthy  class  of  farmers.  Population,  12,355  ;  dwellings, 
2,137;  farms,  1,183;  manufactories,  24. 

CARLINVILLE  is  the  county-seat,  situated  on  a  pleasant 
prairie  near  the  river.  There  are  other  fine  villages  in  this 
county. 

Marion  county  lies  about  half  way  between  the  Wabash 
and  Mississippi;  and  is  watered  by  the  Embarrass  and 
other  smaller  streams ;  it  is  part  of  Grand  Prairie.  Pop 
ulation,  6,720 ;  dwellings,  1,132;  farms,  827;  manufacto 
ries,  9. 

SALEM,  the  county-seat,  is  a  pleasant  village  on  the  bor 
ders  of  Grand  Prairie,  at  the  head  of  Crooked  creek. 

Macdonough  county  occupies  a  portion  of  the  Bounty 
Tract,  and  about  midway  between  the  Illinois  and  Missis 
sippi  ;  it  is  watered  by  Crooked  creek  ;  the  soil  is  mostly 
a  rich  prairie.  Population,  7,616 ;  dwellings,  1,262 ;  farms, 
843 ;  manufactories,  19. 

MACOMB,  the  county-seat,  is  pleasantly  situated  on  a  fer 
tile  prairie ;  Macdonough  College,  a  valuable  institution,  is 
located  here. 

McHenry  county  is  on  the  north  line  of  the  State,  em 
bracing  both  fine  prairie  and  good  timber ;  it  is  watered  by 
Fox  river  and  branches  of  Kishwaukee.  Crystal  lake  is  in 
this  county,  with  a  pleasant  town  of  the  same  name  in.  its 
vicinity.  There  are  many  fine  farms  and  beautiful  pros 
pects  in  this  county,  with  pleasant  groves  and  prairies,  and 
small  villages.  Population,  14,979 ;  dwellings,  2,650 ; 
farms,  1,950 ;  manufactories,  17. 
23 


266  WESTERN    PORTRAITURE. 

WOODSTOCK  is  the  county-seat,  situated  in  a  pleasant 
grove,  near  a  small  brook.  McHenry,  formerly  the  county- 
seat,  i^  situated  on  a  small  mill  creek  which  empties  into 
Fox  river. 

McLean  county  lies  east  of  Tazewell,  and  is  watered  by 
the  Sangamon  river  and  some  other  streams ;  the  soil  is  good, 
divided  between  prairie  and  forest ;  good  coal  and  building 
stone  are  found  in  different  parts  of  the  county.  Popula 
tion,  10,163;  dwellings,  1,851;  farms,  916;  manufacto 
ries,  3. 

BLOOMINGTON,  the  county-seat,  is  beautifully  located  on 
a  fine  prairie,  at  the  head  of  a  small  stream. 

Mercer  county  occupies  a  northern  portion  of  the  Bounty 
Tract,  on  the  Mississippi,  and  is  watered  by  Edwards, 
Pope,  and  Henderson  rivers ;  the  soil  is  of  a  good  quality, 
with  plenty  of  timber.  Population,  5,246  ;  dwellings, 
892;  farms,  517. 

MILLERSBURG,  situated  on  Edwards  river,  is  the  county- 
seat.  Keithsburg,  on  the  Mississippi,  is  the  chief  business 
town.  New  Boston  was  formerly  the  county-seat. 

Monroe  county  is  in  the  southwest  part  of  the  State,  on 
the  Mississippi ;  the  interior  is  watered  by  several  small 
streams  ;  a  portion  of  the  county  is  level  and  fertile,  and 
another  portion  is  hilly  and  broken.  Population,  7,679  ; 
dwellings,  1,421 ;  farms,  874;  manufactories,  33. 

WATERLOO,  the  county-seat,  is  situated  in  prairie  and 
grove,  on  elevated  ground,  and  is  a  pleasant,  growing  village. 

Macon  county  is  situated  on  the  north  fork  of  the  San 
gamon,  and  is  also  watered  by  some  branches  of  the  Kas- 
kaskia ;  the  land  is  mostly  prairie,  of  a  good  quality,  with 
some  timber  ;  and  some  portions  rather  wet.  Population, 
3,988  ;  dwellings,  693  ;  farms,  487  ;  manufactories,  17. 

DECATUR  is  the  county-seat,  a  thriving  village  on  the 
Sangamon.  Clinton  and  Franklin  are  thrifty,  promising 
towns  in  this  countv. 


COUNTIES TOWNS MONK    HILL.  267 

Madison  county  is  one  of  the  best  and  most  important 
in  the  State ;  situated  on  the  Mississippi,  opposite  the  mouth 
of  the  Missouri.  This  county,  both  on  account  of  its  soil 
and  situation,  possesses  great  advantages.  Part  of  it  lies 
in  the  American  Bottom.  It  extends  from  the  mouth  of 
the  Kaskaskia  river  to  Alton,  a  few  miles  above  the  mouth 
of  the  Missouri ;  above  this,  the  bank  is  high,  watered  by 
fine  springs,  and  contains  building  stone  and  coal  of  the 
best  quality.  The  interior  of  the  county  is  generally  ele 
vated  and  undulating. 

On  the  banks  of  the  Mississippi,  below  Alton,  it  is  low 
and  wet,  and  in  many  places  marshy.  No  soil,  however, 
can  exceed  it  in  fertility.  Upon  ascending  the  bluff  which 
bounds  this  Bottom  upon  the  east,  there  is  a  district  of 
country  which  continues  eastward  to  the  Kaskaskia  river, 
and  is  called  the  Table-Land.  This  is  also  very  fertile. 
The  banks  of  the  streams  which  run  through  the  interior  of 
this  county  are  generally  well-wooded,  leaving  between 
them  prairies  of  considerable  size.  Wheat,  corn,  beef,  pork, 
horses,  cattle,  and  almost  every  production  of  Illinois, 
are  raised  in  this  county,  and  find  a  ready  market  at  Alton. 

Monk  Hill,  situated  on  the  American  Bottom,  is  eight 
miles  northeasterly  from  St.  Louis.  The  circumference  at 
the  base  is  about  600  yards,  and  its  hight  about  90  feet. 
On  the  south  side,  about  half  way  down,  is  a  broad  step  or 
apron,  about  15  feet  wide.  This  hill,  or  mound,  was  the 
residence,  for  several  years,  of  the  monks  of  the  order  of 
La  Trappe.  Their  monastery  was  originally  situated  in 
the  district  of  Perche,  in  France,  in  one  of  the  most  lonely 
spots  that  could  be  chosen.  They  fled  from  the  commo 
tions  of  that  kingdom  to  America,  lived  for  a  time  in  Ken 
tucky,  and  came  to  Illinois  in  1806  or  1807,  and  settled  on 
this  mound.  Population,  20,436 ;  dwellings,  3,490 ;  farms, 
1,367  ;  manufactories,  182. 

EDWAKDSVILLE  is  the  county-seat,  and  is  well  and  pleas- 


268  WESTERN    PORTRAITURE. 

antly  situated  east  of  the  river,  amid  a  finely  improved 
farming  country. 

But  ALTON  is  the  chief  town ;  and,  in  fact,  the  largest 
place  on  the  Mississippi,  above  St.  Louis,  and  has  fair 
prospects  of  becoming  a  saucy  rival  to  that  city.  It  already 
contains  twelve  to  fourteen  thousand  population,  and  is  rap 
idly  increasing.  Shurtleff  College,  and  other  institutions 
of  learning,  are  located  here,  of  a  high  character. 

The  Alton  Telegraph  gives  the  following  as  the  receipts  of  lumber 
at  that  port  since  the  opening  of  navigation  to  the  1st  October  : 

Plank,  Joists,  and  Scantling,  ft., 5,800,000 

Shingles, 4,470,000 

Lath, 3,063,000 

Moultrie  county  is  one  of  the  new  counties,  lying  on  the 
head  waters  of  the  Kaskaskia  and  Sangamon  rivers ;  con 
taining  portions  of  timber  and  prairies,  of  good  quality. 
Population,  3,234 ;  dwellings,  554 ;  farms,  304 ;  manufac 
tories,  11. 

AUBURN,  the  county-seat,  is  pleasantly  situated  on  a 
small  stream,  near  the  borders  of  a  prairie.  Julian  and 
Livingston  are  other  towns  in  this  county. 

Montgomery  county  is  located  between  Bond  and  Sanga 
mon,  and  is  watered  by  Sangamon  river,  with  Macoupin, 
Shoal,  and  other  creeks;  it  contains  much  prairie,  with 
some  timber.  Population,  6,270 ;  dwellings,  1,051 ; 
farms,  811;  manufactories,  17. 

HILLSBORO,  the  county-seat,  is  a  thriving  village,  situ 
ated  on  elevated  ground,  near  Shoal  creek.  Zanesville 
and  Douglass  are  other  towns  in  this  county. 

Morgan  county  is  located  on  the  east  bank  of  the  Illi 
nois,  and  is  one  of  the  most  thickly  populated  and  highly 
cultivated  counties  in  the  state,  with  good  land  and  im 
provements  ;  it  is  watered  by  Apple,  Mauvaiseterre,  and 
Sandy  creeks ;  the  Morgan  and  Sangamon  Railroad,  which 
commences  at  Naples,  on  the  Illinois,  in  Scott  county, 


TOWNS OREGON  CITY.  269 

runs  eastward  through  Jacksonville,  in  Morgan  county,  to 
Springfield,  in  Sangamon  county.  Population,  16,164; 
dwellings,  2,661  ;  farms,  1,574 ;  manufactories,  89. 

JACKSONVILLE,  the  county-seat,  is  one  of  the  most  ele 
gant  and  finished  towns  in  the  state,  beautifully  located  in 
the  edge  of  a  pleasant  prairie,  near  a  small  creek.  The 
Illinois  State  College,  an  excellent  and  flourishing  institu 
tion,  is  located  here,  on  a  delightful  eminence ;  there  are 
also  other  institutions  of  education  in  this  place. 

Ogle  county  lies  on  Rock  river,  and  is  one  of  the  finest 
in  the  state ;  it  contains  a  large  amount  of  excellent  rolling 
prairie,  with  a  fair  share  of  timber,  and  is  watered  by 
some  small  streams  running  into  the  river ;  there  is  an 
excellent  seminary  at  Mount  Morris,  in  this  county. 
Population,  10,020;  dwellings,  1,678;  farms,  1,058; 
manufactories,  30. 

OREGON  CITY,  a  thriving  village  on  Rock  river,  is  the 
county-seat.  t  Grand  de  Tour,  a  flourishing  town,  doing 
considerable  manufacturing  business,  is  situated  on  Rock 
river  in  this  county. 

The  towns  in  this  county  are  noted  for  the  manufacture 
of  farming  implements. 

The  following  description  of  Oregon  City  and  Ogle 
county  was  given  some  years  ago  in  the  New  York  Star : 

"  This  place  of  course  (as  well  as  others  on  Rock  river)  is  in  its 
very  infancy  ;  but  a  more  lovely  site  for  an  important  town  could 
not  have  been  selected,  and  soon  the  noise  and  clamor  of  manufac 
tures  and  extensive  traffic  will  give  it  life  and  animation.  The 
bluif,  which  follows  the  river  until  it  reaches  the  town,  leaves  it 
and  falls  back  for  a  mile,  forming  the  half  of  a  circle,  and  meets  it 
again  just  below  in  picturesque  grandeur.  The  situation  of  Ore 
gon  City  itself  has  forcibly  reminded  me  of  Palermo,  the  capital  of 
Sicily,  surrounded  on  the  land  side  by  a  chain  of  mountains,  form 
ing  a  complete  amphitheater,  which  has  been  poetically  called  the 
*  Conco  FOra?  or  Golden  Shell.  The  banks  of  Rock  river  are  not 
so  high  as  those  in  the  Sicilian  landscape ;  but,  contrasted  with  the 


270  WESTERN    PORTRAITURE. 

wide  expanse  of  country  around,  are  quite  as  effective,  and  more 
rich  in  fertile  charms.  The  swelling  of  the  prairies,  gemmed  with 
wild  flowers  of  every  hue,  the  stately  forest,  and  valleys  inter 
spersed  with  shady  groves  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river  sur 
rounding  Hyde  Park,  from  which  we  started  the  wild  and  bounding 
deer  in  great  numbers,  form  features  rarely  to  be  met  with  in  a 
single  glance  of  the  eye,  either  in  this  or  any  other  country ;  and 
amid  all  these  beauties, 

"  'The  river  nobly  foams  and  flows, 

The  charm  of  this  enchanted  ground, 
And  all  its  thousand  turns  disclose 
Some  fresher  beauty  varying  round.' 

"  This  fairy-land  was  the  scene  of  human  slaughter  during  the 
war  of  1832  and  '33,  with  the  Sac  and  Fox  Indians  and  the  United 
States,  conducted  by  the  celebrated  chief  Black  Hawk  and  the 
Prophet,  who,  after  their  capture,  ceded  the  country  east  of  the 
Mississippi  to  the  United  States,  including  the  Rock  river  from  its 
mouth,  or  nearly  so,  to  the  dividing  line  between  Illinois  and  Wis 
consin  territory.  Above  this  are  scattered  along  the  western  shore 
of  the  river  a  line  of  mounds,  more  ancient  than  even  the  wild  and 
fabulous  traditions  of  the  Indians.  A  hardy  class  of  New  England 
settlers  are  now  tilling  these  extensive  plains.  The  Indian  gardens 
are  now  grown  up  with  tall  rank  weeds,  and  the  war-cry  is  only 
heard  beyond  the- Mississippi.  The  last  of  the  savages  left  in 
May,  1836.  Since  I  have  seen  this  fair  field,  this  noble  river,  I 
am  no  longer  surprised  that  the  Indian,  whose  eloquence  is  the 
poetry  of  nature,  clung  with  such  tenacity  to  this  country,  so  pass 
ing  lovely  in  itself,  and  containing  their  homes  and  the  sepulchers 
of  their  dead  warriors." 

Peoria  county  is  located  on  the  west  side  of  the  Illinois. 
I  have  before  described  this  section,  in  the  trip  down  Illi 
nois  river ;  it  has  a  central  position  on  the  east  line  of  the 
Bounty  Tract;  it  has  valuable  coal  mines.  Population, 
17,547 ;  dwellings,  3,036  ;  farms,  1,191 ;  manufactories, 
134. 

The  following  farther  description  is  taken  from  a  com 
munication  in  the  Peoria  Register  of  1837 : 

"  Peoria  is  well  divided  into  prairie  and  timber  land,  of  about 
equal  quantities  of  each.  To  have  a  correct  idea  of  the  form, 


COUNTIES TOWNS.  271 

beauty,  and  peculiar  adaptation  of  our  prairies  to  farming  pur 
poses,  the  reader  will  recollect  that  five  streams  of  no  inconsidera 
ble  magnitude  water  this  county,  all  of  which,  with  the  exception 
of  French  creek,  run  a  southerly  direction  into  the  Illinois  river. 
Snatchwine  ('  Elbow')  passes  through  the  northeast  part  of  the 
county;  Kickapoo,  with  its  east,  north,  and  west  forks,  through 
the  center ;  and  Lamarche  and  Copperas  creeks  through  the  west. 
Spoon  river  runs  along  near  the  northern  border,  and  French 
creek  has  a  westward  course  through  the  north  part  of  the  county. 
All  of  these  streams  are  bordered  by  timber  from  one  to  two  miles 
wide  (save  the  interval  bottoms),  the  prairies  occupying  the  bal 
ance  of  the  space  between,  and  descending  in  delightful  slopes 
toward  the  timber,  from  the  dividing  ridge  in  the  center.  Thus,  it 
will  be  seen  at  a  glance  that  the  whole  county  is  admirably  divided 
into  alternate  tracts  of  timber  and  prairie  land.  No  county  in  the 
state  has  more  facilities  for  speedily  enriching  the  industrious 
farmer  than  Peoria." 

PEORIA,  the  county-seat,  is  situated  on  the  river  at  the 
foot  of  the  lake,  and  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful  towns  in 
all  the  West. 

Perry  county  is  a  small  one,  situated  on  the  Beaucoup 
creek,  east  of  Randolph  county  ;  it  is  also  watered  by 
branches  of  the  Big  Muddy ;  it  is  a  good  county  of  land, 
and  pretty  well  cultivated.  Population,  5,278 ;  dwellings, 
967  ;  farms,  638  ;  manufactories,  7. 

PICKNEYVILLE,  the  county-seat,  is  located  on  the  Beau- 
coup,  in  the  border  of  a  prairie,  and  is  a  pleasant,  thriving 
village. 

Pyatt  county  is  situated  on  the  Upper  Sangamon,  and 
west  of  Champaign  county ;  it  is  a  new  county,  and  con 
tains  good  land,  both  prairie  and  timber.  Population, 
1,606  ;  dwellings,  157  ;  farms,  163  ;  manufactories,  2. 

MONTECELLO,  the  county-seat,  is  pleasantly  situated  on 
the  Sangamon. 

Pike  county  is  located  in  the  southern  part  of  the 
Bounty  Tract,  and  contains  much  timber  with  some  prai 
rie  ;  it  is  watered  by  Beaucoup  and  Little  Muddy  creeks ; 


272  WESTERN    PORTRAITURE. 

its  lands  are  good,  both  prairie  and  timber,  and  well  culti 
vated.  Population,  18,819;  dwellings,  8,152;  farms, 
1,382;  manufactories,  37. 

PITTSFIELD,  the  county-seat,  is  located  on  a  high,  pleas 
ant  prairie,  in  the  borders  of  fine  timber.  There  are  many 
other  fine  villages  in  this  county. 

Pope  county  is  located  in  the  southeastern  part  of  the 
state  on  the  Ohio  ;  it  is  watered  by  Bay,  Lusk,  and  Grand 
Peirre  creeks ;  its  soil  is  rather  sandy,  composed  of  both 
timber  and  prairie.  Population,  3,975  ;  dwellings,  747 ; 
farms,  504;  manufactories,  12. 

GOLCONDA  is  the  county-seat,  situated  on  the  Ohio,  a 
short  distance  below  good  quarries  of  building  stone. 

Pulaski  county  is  a  new  one,  situated  in  the  southern 
part  of  the  state,  between  Cash  creek  and  the  Ohio ;  it 
contains  considerable  timber,  with  some  fine  bottom  lands. 
Population,  2,265 ;  dwellings,  418 ;  farms,  266 ;  manu 
factories,  18. 

CALEDONIA  is  the  county-seat,  located  on  the  Ohio  river, 
and  is  a  place  of  some  business.  Napoleon  is  a  village  in 
this  county. 

Putnam  county,  lying  on  the  Illinois,  mostly  in  the 
great  bend,  contains  much  excellent  prairie,  with  a  fair 
proportion  of  good  timber ;  it  is  watered  by  Bureau, 
Crow,  and  Sandy  creeks.  Population,  3,924;  dwellings, 
636 ;  farms,  317 ;  manufactories,  26. 

HENNEPIN  is  the  county-seat,  situated  on  the  east  bank 
of  the  Illinois,  occupying  a  high  and  pleasant  position, 
and  is  a  place  of  considerable  business. 

An  early  account  of  Putnam  county  was  given  in  the 
Hennepin  Journal,  as  follows  : 

"  Almost  every  county  in  the  state  has  had  its  topography  and 
history  published  to  the  world,  in  some  of  the  public  journals  of 
the  day  ;  while  of  ours,  which  is  one  of  the  most  important  in  the 
northern  part  of  the  state,  there  has  been  nothing  said ;  and  at  a 


COUNTIES TOWNS HENNEPIN.  273 

distance,  there  are  few  who  have  heard  that  there  is  such  a  county 
in  the  state  as  Putnam.  And  in  order  to  obviate  this,  and  let  the 
readers  of  the  Journal  at  a  distance  know  something  of  this  region, 
and  its  progress  of  improvement,  we  will  attempt  a  brief  account 
of  the  history  and  topography  of  Putnam  county. 

"Putnam  county  was  organized  in  the  year  1831,  but  did  not 
increase  rapidly  in  population  until  after  the  termination  of  the 
Black  Hawk  war  in  1832  and  '33.  But  after  the  conclusion  of  hos 
tilities,  and  when  security  was  restored  to  the  settler,  immigrants 
came  in  from  every  quarter  of  the  Union,  and  spread  over  the 
country  in  every  direction  like  a  flood,  so  that  nearly  every  grove 
of  timber  soon  found  an  inhabitant  of  a  very  diiferent  stamp  from 
the  native  red  man,  who,  but  a  short  time  since,  was  lord  of  the 
grove  and  the  prairie,  and  who  roamed  over  these  fair  plains  unmo 
lested,  having  none  to  dispute  his  right  to  the  soil,  or  disturb  him 
in  his  scenes  of  pleasure  at  his  wigwam,  and  enjoyments  of  the 
chase. 

"  We  have  no  hesitation  in  saying  that  Putnam  county  possesses 
agricultural  and  commercial  advantages  equal  to  those  of  any 
county  in  the  state,  and  that  it  has  as  beautiful  a  surface  and  as 
rich  a  soil,  with  as  good  a  supply  of  timber,  as  is  found  anywhere 
in  the  West.  The  land  being  dry  and  rolling,  is  pleasant  and  easy 
to  cultivate,  and  yields  to  the  industrious  farmer  an  abundant  re 
ward  for  his  labor,  producing  every  thing  incident  to  the  climate 
in  the  greatest  profusion,  and  with  an  ease  to  the  cultivator  that 
would  appear  almost  incredible  to  the  people  of  the  states  farther 
east,  who  are  accustomed  to  a  hard  and  sterile  soil,  when  compared 
with  ours. 

"  The  inhabitants  of  this  county  are  enterprising  and  intelligent, 
having  emigrated  mainly  from  Ohio,  New  York,  and  New  England  ; 
and  coming  here  with  their  accustomed  habits  of  industry,  they 
soon  succeed  in  subduing  these  fertile  prairies  to  a  state  of  high 
cultivation." 

Randolph  county  lies  on  the  Mississippi,  and  is  located 
on  both  sides  of  the  Kaskaskia,  and  contains  much  tim 
bered  land  with  little  prairie  ;  the  surface  is  undulating 
and  hilly  in  places.  Population,  11,070  ;  dwellings,  2,046 ; 
farms,  1,100;  manufactories,  36. 

The  following  description  of  old  Fort  Chartres  is  taken 
from  "  Illinois  in  1837:" 


274  WESTERN    PORTRAITURE. 

"In  the  northwestern  part  of  the  county  are  the  ruins  of  Fort 
Chartres,  a  large  stone  fortification,  erected  by  the  French  while 
in  possession  of  Illinois.  It  is  situated  half  a  mile  from  the  Mis 
sissippi,  and  three  miles  from  Prairie  du  Rocher. 

"  It  was  originally  built  by  the  French  in  1720,  to  defend  them 
selves  against  the  Spaniards,  who  were  then  taking  possession  of 
the  country  on  the  Mississippi.  It  was  rebuilt  in  1756.  The  cir 
cumstances,  character,  form,  and  history  of  this  fort,  are  interest 
ing,  as  it  is  intimately  connected  with  the  early  history  of  this 
country.  Once  it  was  a  most  formidable  piece  of  masonry,  the 
materials  of  which  were  brought  from  the  bluffs,  three  or  four 
miles  distant.  It  was  originally  an  irregular  quadrangle,  the  ex 
terior  sides  of  which  were  490  feet  in  circumference.  Within  the 
walls  were  the  commandant's  and  commissary's  houses,  a  maga 
zine  for  stores,  barracks,  powder-magazine,  bake-house,  guard 
house,  and  prison. 

"  This  prodigious  military  work  is  now  a  heap  of  ruins.  Many 
of  the  hewn  stones  have  been  removed  by  the  people  to  Kaskaskia. 
A  slough  from  the  Mississippi  approached  and  undermined  the 
wall  on  one  side  in  1772.  Over  the  whole  fort  is  a  considerable 
growth  of  trees,  and  most  of  its  walls  and  buildings  have  fallen 
down,  and  lie  in  one  promiscuous  ruin." 

CHESTER,  the  county-seat,  is  well  located  on  the  east 
bank  of  the  Mississippi,  some  miles  below  the  month  of 
the  Kaskaskia ;  and  is  a  place  of  large  commercial  busi 
ness  ;  Kaskaskia  the  early  capital  of  the  territory  was  for 
merly  the  county-seat. 

Prairie  du  Rocher  is  an  ancient  French  village,  in  the 
northwest  part  of  the  county,  on  the  American  Bottom, 
near  the  rocky  bluffs,  from  which  it  derives  its  name,  and 
14  miles  northwest  of  Kaskaskia.  It  is  in  a  low,  un 
healthy  situation,  along  a  small  creek  of  the  same  name, 
which  rises  in  the  bluffs,  passes  across  the  American  Bot 
tom,  and  enters  the  Mississippi.  The  houses  are  built 
in  the  French  style,  the  streets  very  narrow,  and  the  in 
habitants  preserve  more  of  the  simplicity  of  character  and 
habits  peculiar  to  early  times,  than  in  any  other  village  in 
Illinois. 


COUNTIES TOWNS SANG  AM  ON.  275 

Rock  Island  county,  with  its  county-seat,  ROCK  ISLAND, 
were  described  in  the  Mississippi  tour.  Population, 
6,937;  dwellings,  1,246;  farms,  585;  manufactories,  21. 
Among  the  other  business,  there  is  considerable  boat 
building  done  here. 

Richland  is  one  of  the  new  counties,  situated  between 
Lawrence  and  Clay  counties ;  it  contains  a  large  portion 
of  prairie,  and  is  well  watered  by  Fox  and  Bonpas  creeks. 
Population,  4,012;  dwellings,  704;  farms,  204;  manu 
factories,  3. 

OLNEY  is  the  county-seat,  a  pleasant  little  village  situated 
on  a  small  stream  in  the  edge  of  a  prairie. 

Saline  is  a  new  county,  lying  west  of  Gallatin,  and  is 
generally  timbered;  it  is  watered  by  Saline  and  other 
creeks.  Population,  5,588  ;  dwellings,  961 ;  farms,  678  ; 
manufactories,  11. 

RALEIGH  is  the  county-seat,  situated  on  a  branch  of 
Saline  creek,  on  a  pleasant  elevation. 

Sangamon  is  one  of  the  most  thrifty  counties  in  the 
State,  and  is  thickly  settled ;  it  is  diversified  with  prairie 
and  timber;  and  is  watered  by  the  Sangamon  and  its 
branches.  Population,  19,228;  dwellings,  3,173;  farms, 
1,578;  manufactories,  92. 

SPRINGFIELD,  the  State  Capital,  is  also  the  county-seat ; 
and  is  located  in  a  beautiful  prairie,  sprinkled  about  with 
fine  groves.  This  place  has  enjoyed  a  rapid  growth,  and 
is  becoming  improved  and  ornamented  with  much  ele 
gance.  The  Railroad  from  Illinois  river  passes  through 
Springfield,  and  runs  on  east  some  eight  miles  to  Roches 
ter,  ultimately  to  be  continued  to  the  Wabash.  Although 
a  new  place,  Springfield  already  numbers  several  thousand 
population,  and  is  the  depot  for  a  large  amount  of  business, 
sustained  by  a  rich  and  enterprising  country. 

The  following  extract  of  a  letter,  dated  Springfield, 
March  2,  1837,  contains  matter  that  will  be  interesting 


270  WESTERN    PORTRAITURE. 

to  many  early  residents  as  well  as  new  immigrants,  in  this 
region : 

"  Our  Far  West  is  improving  rapidly,  astonishingly.  It  is  five 
years  since  I  visited  it,  and  the  changes  within  that  period  are  like 
the  work  of  enchantment.  Flourishing  towns  have  grown  up, 
farms  have  been  opened,  and  comfortable  dwellings,  fine  barns  and 
all  appurtenances,  steam-mills  and  manufacturing  establishments 
erected,  in  a  country  in  which  the  hardy  pioneer  had  at  that  time 
sprinkled  a  few  log  cabins.  The  conception  of  Coleridge  may  be 
realized  sooner  than  he  anticipated  ;  '  The  possible  destiny  of  the 
United  States  of  America,  as  a  nation  of  a  hundred  millions  of 
freemen — stretching  from  the  Atlantic  to  the  Pacific,  living  under 
the  laws  of  Alfred,  and  speaking  the  language  of  Shakspeare  and 
Milton,  is  an  august  conception — why  should  we  not  wish  to  see  it 
realized  ?'  On  the  subject  of  internal  improvements  the  young 
giant  of  the  West  is  making  herculean  efforts.  A  bill  passed  the 
Legislature,  a  few  days  since,  appropriating  eight  millions  of  dollars 
for  Railroads,  Canals,  etc. ;  works  which,  when  completed,  will 
cost  twenty  millions. 

"  On  Monday  last  another  bill  was  passed,  transferring  the  Seat 
of  Government  from  Vandalia  in  Fayette  county  to  this  place — 
Springfield — which  is  in  the  fertile  district  of  Sangamon  county  ; 
and,  as  near  as  may  be,  the  geographical  center  of  the  State,  and 
soon  will  be  the  Center  of  population.  There  will  be  but  one  more 
session  at  Vandalia. 

"  The  State  of  Illinois  has  probably  the  finest  body  of  fertile  land 
of  any  State  in  the  Union,  and  the  opportunities  for  speculation 
are  numerous.  Property  will  continue  to  advance ;  admirable 
farms  and  town-lots  may  be  purchased  with  a  certainty  of  realiz 
ing  large  profits.  The  country  here  is  beautiful — equal  in  native 
.attractions,  though  not  in  classic  recollections,  to  the  scenes  I  vis 
ited  and  admired  in  Italy.  The  vale  of  Arno  is  not  more  beautiful 
than  the  valley  of  Sangamon,  with  its  lovely  groves,  murmuring 
brooks,  and  flowery  meads — 

" '  Oh  Italy,  sweet  clime  of  song,  where  oft 

The  bard  hath  sung  thy  beauties,  matchless  deemed, 
Thou  hast  a  rival  in  this  Western  Land  !'  " 

Scott  is  a  small,  new  county,  on  the  east  bank  of  the 
Illinois,  with  considerable  timber;  it  is  watered  by  the 


COUNTIES TOWNS.  277 

Mauvaisterre  and  Plume  creeks.  Population,  7,914; 
dwellings,  1,300;  farms,  712;  manufactories,  54. 

NAPLES  is  the  principal  commercial  town,  situated  on 
the  Illinois,  and  is  a  place  of  considerable  business.  It  is 
the  western  terminus  of  the  Sangamon  Railroad. 

WINCHESTER,  nearly  in  the  center  of  the  county,  is  a 
fine  and  thriving  town,  and  is  the  county-seat. 

Schuyler  county  is  located  on  the  west  bank  of  the  Il 
linois  ;  it  is  an  excellent  county  of  land,  conveniently 
divided  between  timber  and  prairie  ;  and  well  watered  by 
Crooked  and  Sugar  creeks ;  it  is  settled  with  thrifty 
farmers,  and  presents  many  thriving  villages.  Population, 
10,573;  dwellings,  1,783;  farms,  624;  manufactories, 
52. 

RUSHVILLE,  a  handsome,  flourishing  village,  is  the  county- 
seat  ;  it  occupies  a  pleasant  location  on  the  borders  of  a 
fertile  prairie,  skirted  by  fine  timber,  at  the  head  of  a 
small  stream.  Huntsville  is  another  flourishing  village  in 
this  county. 

Shelby  is  a  prairie  county,  with  some  timber,  and  lo 
cated  well  up  on  the  Kaskaskia  river,  and  watered  by  its 
head  branches.  Population,  7,807;  dwellings,  1,411; 
farms,  834 ;  manufactories,  7. 

SHELBYVILLE,  the  county-seat,  occupies  an  elevated  and 
pleasant  situation  on  the  Kaskaskia.  In  this  county  are 
several  fine  towns  and  groves. 

Stark  county  is  located  on  Spoon  river,  north  of  Peoria ; 
it  contains  fair  proportions  of  prairie  and  timber ;  and  is 
watered  by  Spoon  creek  and  branches.  Population, 
3,710  ;  dwellings,  594  ;  farms,  343  ;  manufactories,  23. 

TOULON,  the  county-seat,  is  situated  on  the  border  of  a 
prairie,  near  the  head  of  a  small  stream  ;  and  is  a  pleasant, 
healthy  place. 

St.  Clair  county  is  located  between  the  Mississippi  and 
Kaskaskia  rivers ;  it  is  composed  of  prairie  and  timber,  and 
24 


278  WESTERN    PORTRAITURE. 

portions  of  it  hilly,  with  a  portion  of  the  American  Bot 
tom  lying  in  one  corner  of  it ;  it  is  watered  by  Richland 
and  Silver  creeks.  This  county  lies  opposite  St.  Louis, 
and  supplies  that  city  with  large  amounts  of  excellent 
coal,  and  great  quantities  of  agricultural  produce.  Pop 
ulation,  20,181  ;  dwellings,  3,727;  farms,  1,961;  manu 
factories,  62. 

BELLVILLE,  the  county-seat,  is  a  fine  flourishing  town,  oc 
cupying  a  pleasant  and  elevated  position  on  a  fertile  prairie, 
some  12  miles  east  of  Illinois  Town,  which  is  on  the  Mis 
sissippi.  At  Lebanon,  in  this  county,  is  McKendrie  Col 
lege,  a  valuable  institution.  Cahokia,  an  early  French 
post,  is  in  this  county. 

In  regard  to  the  coal  operations  of  this  county,  the 
Chicago  Democrat,  in  October,  1851,  makes  the  following 
announcement : 

"  This  Company  was  organized  some  three  or  four  years  since. 
Its  object  is  to  furnish  the  market  of  St.  Louis  with  a  supply  of 
coal  from  the  bluffs  on  the  Illinois  side  of  the  Mississippi,  some 
ten  miles  from  the  city.  Ex-Governor  Casey  and  Judge  Scates  are 
among  the  principal  stockholders  of  the  Company.  Colonel  O'Fal- 
lon  and  Dr.  Barrett,  of  St.  Louis,  are  also  interested  in  it.  A 
town  had  been  laid  off  on  the  Company's  lands  at  the  foot  of  the 
bluffs,  to  which  the  name  of  Caseyville  has  been  given.  The  Com 
pany  have  constructed  a  Railroad  from  the  river  at  Illinois  Town, 
opposite  St.  Louis,  to  the  bluff.  They  have  fifty  coal  cars,  each 
capable  of  holding  one  hundred  tons.  The  road  was  built  at  a 
cost  of  $120,000.  It  is  thought  an  arrangement  will  be  perfected 
with  some  of  the  roads  projected  across  the  State,  to  terminate  at 
Illinois  Town,  to  unite  with  this  road,  and  in  view  of  such  proba 
bility,  it  has  been  built  in  a  most  substantial  manner.  On  the 
22d  September  a  train  passed  over  the  road  for  the  first  time,  on 
which  occasion  a  number  of  invited  guests  visited  Caseyville,  and 
partook  of  a  free  dinner." 

Stephenson  county  lies  between  Jo  Daviess  and  Win- 
nebago  counties,  on  the  northern  line  of  the  State ;  it  con 
tains  the  best  of  prairie  and  timber  lands,  in  due  proper- 


TAZEWELL UNION GRAND    TOWER.  279 

tions,  and  is  thickly  settled  and  much  cultivated ;  a  portion 
of  the  Mineral  district  extends  into  this  county;  it  is 
watered  by  the  Peckatonica,  and  other  smaller  streams. 
Population,  11,666;  dwellings,  1,950;  farms,  1,179; 
manufactories,  75. 

FREEPORT,  the  county-seat,  is  a  very  thriving  village, 
near  the  junction  of  Yellow  creek  with  the  Peckatonica ; 
it  is  bordered  in  different  directions  by  prairies  and  groves ; 
the  Chicago  and  Galena  Railroad  route  passes  through 
this  town,  and  will  be  in  operation  to  here  early  next 
year. 

Situated  on  the  borders  of  both  farming  and  mineral 
lands,  as  it  does,  Freeport  must  continue  to  have  much 
growth ;  and  like  the  county  the  town  contains  an  enter 
prising  population. 

Tazewell  is  a  new  and  excellent  prairie  county,  on  the 
east  of  Illinois  river ;  it  contains  a  fair  share  of  timber, 
and  is  watered  by  Mackinaw  and  other  creeks  ;  it  is 
thickly  settled  and  well  cultivated.  Population,  12,052  ; 
dwellings,  1,991  ;  farms,  1,110;  manufactories,  76. 

TREMONT,  the  county-seat,  is  pleasantly  situated  on  a 
beautiful  elevated  prairie,  and  is  a  place  of  considerable 
trade.  Pekin,  on  the  river,  is  the  principal  commercial 
town  of  the  county. 

Union  county  is  located  in  the  southern  part  of  the 
State,  on  the  Mississippi,  below  the  Big  Muddy  river.  To 
the  northwest  of  this  county  is  the  Grand  Tower. 

JONESBORO,  is  the  county-seat,  and  pleasantly  located  in 
the  skirts  of  a  fine  grove  of  timber,  with  fair  prospects  of 
some  growth.  Population  of  the  county  is  7,615  ;  dwell 
ings,  1,289  ;  farms,  810  ;  manufactories,  21. 

Vermillion  is  a  county  of  good  land,  on  the  eastern  line 
of  the  state,  and  is  thickly  populated;  it  contains  fair 
proportions  of  prairie  and  timber  land,  of  good  quality  ; 
and  is  watered  by  the  Big  and  Little  Vermillion  rivers, 


280  WESTERN    PORTRAITURE. 

with  a  branch  of  Saline  creek,  from  which  salt  is  manu 
factured.  Population,  11,492;  dwellings,  1,985;  farms, 
1,269  ;  manufactories,  15. 

DANVILLE,  the  county-seat,  is  a  beautiful  and  flourishing 
village,  of  large  business  and  fine  prospects  ;  it  is  situated 
on  the  Big  Vermillion,  between  two  small  streams  empty 
ing  into  it ;  its  position  is  on  a  sandy  elevation,  with  prai 
rie  on  one  side  and  timber  on  the  other.  It  lies  due  south 
of  Chicago,  about  130  miles  on  the  stageroad  to  Vin- 
cennes,  on  the  Wabash.  This  town  with  the  county  are 
considered  among  the  best  on  the  east  border  of  the  state. 

Wabash  is  the  smallest  county  in  the  state,  situated  on 
the  west  bank  of  the  Wabash,  and  opposite  White  river, 
in  Indiana,  and  the  Rapids  and  Coffee  Islands  in  the  Wa 
bash  ;  the  land  is  prairie  and  timber,  and  cultivated  by  a 
pretty  thick  population  of  thriving  farmers ;  it  is  watered 
on  the  west  line  by  Bonpas  creek.  Population,  4,690 ; 
dwellings,  808  ;  farms,  533 ;  manufactories,  9. 

MOUNT  CARMEL,  the  county-seat,  is  situated  on  the 
Wabash  below  the  Rapids,  and  is  a  place  of  increasing 
business.  Centreville  and  Armstrong  are  other  towns  in 
this  county. 

Warren  county  lies  east  of  Henderson,  and  in  the 
western  part  of  the  Bounty  Tract ;  it  consists  of  the  best 
of  land,  both  prairie  and  timber ;  it  is  watered  by  Hen 
derson  river,  and  some  smaller  streams.  Good  coal  and 
limestone  are  found  here.  Population,  8,170;  dwellings, 
1,401  ;  farms,  956  ;  manufactories,  42. 

MONMOUTH,  the  county-seat,  is  pleasantly  located  on  a 
fertile  prairie,  and  is  a  thriving  village,  near  the  head  of 
Cedar  creek. 

Washington  county  is  located  on  the  south  of  Kaskas- 
kia  river,  and  is  watered  by  Elk,  Big  Beaucoup,  and 
Crooked  creeks ;  it  contains  much  fine  prairie  with  a  fair 
share  of  good  timber,  and  is  pretty  well  settled  and  cul- 


WAYNE WHITE WHITESIDES WILL.  281 

tivated ;  Grand  Prairie  runs  into  the  north  side  of  this 
county.  Population,  (5,953  ;  dwellings,  1,288  ;  farms,  829  ; 
manufactories,  9. 

NASHVILLE,  the  county-seat,  is  pleasantly  located  on  a 
rich  prairie,  near  the  head  of  a  small  stream,  and  is  a 
flourishing  village.  Okau,  Beaucoup,  and  Elkhorn  are 
other  towns  in  this  county. 

Wayne  county  contains  much  timber,  with  some  good 
prairie ;  it  is  watered  by  the  Little  Wabash,  Elm,  and 
Skillet  creeks;  and  is  pretty  well  populated  with  good 
farmers.  Population,  6,825 ;  dwellings,  1,209 ;  farms, 
492 ;  manufactories,  6. 

FAIRFIELD,  the  county-seat,  is  a  pleasant  village,  situ 
ated  on  the  borders  of  a  fertile  prairie,  and  is  doing  a 
thriving  business. 

White  county  is  located  on  the  west  bank  of  the  Wa 
bash,  with  the  Little  Wabash  running  through  it  from 
north  to  south ;  the  land  is  mostly  timbered,  with  some 
scattering  prairies,  which  are  much  cultivated.  Popula 
tion,  8,925;  dwellings,  1,537;  farms,  1,101;  manufac 
tories,  22. 

CARMI,  the  county-seat,  is  a  pleasant  town  situated  on 
the  Little  Wabash. 

Whitesides  county  lies  on  both  sides  of  Eock  river,  and 
is  otherwise  watered  by  Elkhorn  and  Rock  creeks.  It 
contains  much  good  prairie  and  a  fair  share  of  timber. 
Population,  5,361  ;  dwellings,  923 ;  farms,  404 ;  manu 
factories,  24. 

STERLING  is  the  new  county-seat ;  it  is  handsomely  sit 
uated  on  the  banks  of  Rock  river,  mostly  surrounded  by 
a  beautiful  prairie  ;  the  noted  Merredosia  slough  is  in  this 
county.  Lynden  was  formerly  the  county-seat ;  Como, 
Albany,  Union  Grove,  Fulton,  and  Prophetstown,  are 
other  towns  of  this  county. 

Will  county,  and  JOLIET,  are  described  in  the  Canal 


282  WESTERN     PORTRAITURE. 

district.  People  visiting  this  county  to  purchase  lands, 
will  find  it  to  their  interest  to  call  on  Mr.  A.  J.  MATHEW- 
SON,  at  Lockport,  a  surveyor  and  engineer,  possessing  ex 
tensive  knowledge  of  the  West. 

Winnebago  is  located  on  both  sides  of  Rock  river,  and  is 
one  of  the  best  counties  in  the  State ;  its  prairies  are  rich, 
and  much  cultivated ;  they  are  interspersed  by  pleasant 
groves  of  timber ;  it  is  among  the  best  portions  of  the  cel 
ebrated  ';  Rock  River  Country  ;"  and  in  no  part  of  its  course 
does  that  river  present  a  handsomer  appearance  than  in 
this  county;  at  Rockford  it  affords  an  excellent  water- 
power,  which  is  well  improved ;  while  its  banks  furnish 
abundance  of  good  building  and  limestone ;  the  Kishwaukee, 
on  the  east,  and  Peckatonica,  on  the  west,  are  two  rivers 
which  empty  into  Rock  river  in  this  county ;  and  near  the 
mouth  of  the  former  are  elevated  prairies  which  command 
some  of  the  finest  views  in  the  State.  Population,  11,773  ; 
dwellings,  1,979;  farms,  919,  manufactories,  14. 

The  fertile  prairies  of  the  West  seem  to  be  as  inspiring 
to  poets,  as  they  are  attractive  to  the  soil-tiller.  The  fol 
lowing  beautiful  "  Hymn  from  the  Prairies,"  was  written 
by  Mr.  J.  CLEMENT,  last  summer,  while  on  a  tour  through 
Illinois  and  Wisconsin : 

"  I've  felt  thy  presence,  O  my  God  1 

In  gorges  deep,  amid  the  roar 
Of  torrents,  shooting  far  abroad, 
And  shaking  earth's  firm,  rocky  floor. 

"  I've  felt  thy  presence  on  the  hights 

Of  hills,  sky-cleaving  and  sublime, 
Where  thoughts  are  bred  for  angel  flights, 
And  near  to  heaven  the  soul  may  climb. 

"Fve  felt  thy  presence  'mid  the  swell 

Of  billows  leaping  to  the  sky  ; 
While  Fancy,  shocked  at  Furies'  yell, 

Rolled  Death's  black  waves  before  the  eye. 

"  But  gorges  deep  and  mountains  grand, 

And  e'en  the  Fury-ridden  sea, 
No  more  than  this  broad  Prairie-land 
The  presence,  Lord,  bespeak  of  thee. 


WINNEBAGO — ;ROCKFORD.  283 

"  The  hand  that  smoothed  these  boundless  plains, 

And  fashioned  all  their  charms,  is  Thine  ; 
And  e'en  the  silence  here  that  reigns, 
Is  eloquent  of  power  divine. 

"  This  holy  hush  at  noontide  hour, 

Amid  this  sea-like  field  of  bloom, 
Steals  o'er  me  with  a  soothing  power, 
Like  whispers  from  a  Hope-lit  tomb. 

"  Amid  thy  solemn  fields  below, 

Permit  me,  Lord,  to  often  rove, 

And  daily  make  me  humbler  grow, 

Till  fit  for  holier  fields  above." 

ROCKFORD,  the  county-seat,  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful 
and  prosperous  villages  on  Rock  river ;  it  does  a  large, 
active  business,  and  contains  many  fine  buildings  and  mills ; 
it  is  connected  with  Chicago  by  a  Telegraph  line  which 
passes  through  the  towns  on  the  Railroad  route  ;  the  Chi 
cago  and  Galena  Railroad  is  to  be  completed  to  this  place 
during  the  coming  winter.  The  prairie  fires,  in  the  West, 
are  much  noted,  and  truly  magnificent  spectacles.  Roscoe, 
Rockton,  JN"ewburg,  and  Harrison,  are  other  towns  in  this 
county. 

Williamson  is  a  new  county,  located  in  the  southern  part 
of  the  State;  composed  of  portions  of  prairie  and  timber; 
it  is  watered  by  the  head  streams  of  Saline  and  Big  Muddy 
rivers.  Population,  7,216;  dwellings,  1,195;  farms,  752; 
manufactories,  10. 

MARION,  the  county-seat,  is  pleasantly  located  on  the 
borders  of  grove  and  prairie.  Bainbridge  and  Sarahville 
are  other  towns  in  this  county. 

Woodford  is  a  new  county,  situated  on  the  east  bank  of 
Peoria  lake  and  Illinois  river ;  it  consists  of  much  prairie 
and  little  timber,  but  of  good  quality  of  soil ;  it  is  watered 
by  branches  of  Mackinaw  and  Crow  creeks.  Population, 
4,416;  dwellings,  747;  farms,  506;  manufactories,  14. 

METAMORA,  the  county-seat,  is  located  on  a  pleasant  and 
fertile  prairie.  Woodford  and  Blackpartridge  are  other 
towns  in  the  county. 


284  WESTERN   PORTRAITURE. 

KECAPITULATION. — Total  population,  851,470  ;  whole 
number  of  dwellings,  146,544 ;  whole  number  of  farms, 
76,208 ;  whole  number  of  manufacturing  establishments, 
producing  annually  five  hundred  dollars  or  upward,  3,099. 
NORTH  AND  SOUTH. — The  northern  portion  of  the  State 
is  less  rough  than  the  southern,  though  it  is  rolling  and 
contains  more  prairie,  with  the  richest  bottom  and  allu 
vial  lands,  and  most  favorable  for  corn;  the  south  has 
more  marsh  and  timber,  but  the  north  presents  more 
smooth  prairie  and  isolated  groves,  which  thus  exhibits 
more  beauty  to  the  eye  of  the  spectator. 

Here  a  beautiful  scene  lies  spread  out  before  the  eye; 
it  is  one  of  nature's  portraits,  most  in  harmony  with  Om 
niscient  Love,  who  ordained  it  for  man's  comfort ;  frigid 
and  infidel,  indeed,  must  be  the  being  whose  mind  could 
not  admire  and  harmonize  with  it;  small  hillocks,  with 
vales  between,  rolled  away  successively ;  the  Earth  looks 
a  luxuriant,  almost  voluptuous  form,  arrayed  in  glorious 
robes,  tinted  and  green,  whose  fruitful  bosom  is  ever  ready 
to  yield  fruition  and  vital  sustenance  to  all  who  trustingly 
nestle  there ;  such  was  the  charming  picture  displayed  be 
fore  the  zealous,  active  toiler,  as  it  undulated  before  him, 
with  soft  swells  and  valley-dimples,  almost  breathing  with 
life,  as  its  rich,  glowing,  verdure-robes  waved  in  the  breeze, 
gently  rising  and  falling  like  the  maternal  bosom  when 
agitated  by  emotions  of  affection ;  and  then  the  whole  face 
cheered  into  brighter  gladness  by  the  Sun's  ardent  kisses, 
as  he  imprinted  them  while  the  fitful  passing  clouds  re 
moved  their  mystic  veil  from  the  enamored  features ;  and 
all  this  is  fruitful  harmony  in  obedience  to  the  laws  of  the 
Author-love,  so  long  as  constancy  cultivates  and  sincerity 
sanctifies. 

Yet,  storms  will  pass ;  uniform  tranquility  remains  not 
with  Earth,  with  man;  for  life  is  everywhere,  and  so 
change ;  transgression  has  stalked  forth,  and  so  confusion ; 


WILD    AND    LEGITIMATE    CULTURE.  285 

after  agitation,  though,  comes  rest,  and  deeper  joy ;  for 
revolution,  excitement,  intensifies  feeling,  and  contrast 
hightens  appreciation.  The  sun  shines  brighter  after  the 
sable  cloud-storm,  and  the  landscape  sparkles  brighter  un 
der  the  starry  rain-drops  just  sprinkled  over  it. 

Then,  O  man,  learn  cheerfully  alike  to  endure  stormy 
agitations  and  welcome  fervent  sun-kisses ;  for  there  is  no 
fructification  on  earth  without  both. 

The  kernel,  casually  scattered  by  the  way-side,  or  in 
temporary  stealth  planted  beneath  the  shade-bush,  will 
still  reproduce,  even  under  only  fitful  glimpses  of  sun-love, 
through  clouding-boughs,  and  watered  only  by  the  dew- 
tears  violently  shaken  down  by  the  ruthless  blast ;  but, 
how  much  more  bountiful  and  gratifying  is  the  fruit  gath 
ered  from  the  permanency  of  enlightened  culture.  The 
wild  vine  that  climbs,  at  random,  the  craggy  oak  will  bear 
fruit;  yet  how  far  sweeter  and  enduring  is  the  cluster 
gathered  from  the  vine  which  is  vitalized  by  the  same  sun- 
kisses,  but  led  by  the  legitimate  and  intelligent  hand  along 
the  clean  trellis  ordained  to  its  use. 

In  no  place  have  I  ever  beheld  the  Thunder  Storm  ex 
hibit  so  much  terrific  grandeur,  so  much  of  the  Mighty 
One's  oratory,  as  while  traversing  one  of  the  vast  prairies 
of  the  West. 

Once  in  the  summer  of  '48, 1  had  set  out  on  foot  to  travel 
westward  over  one  of  those  green,  undulating  prairies,  be 
tween  Rock  river  and  the  Mineral  district,  in  the  after 
noon.  I  had  been  stepping  on  some  hour  or  two,  over 
the  light  swells  and  gentle  slopes,  when  the  storm  came 
buzzing  and  bellowing  portentously  after  me ;  directly  I 
turned  to  look  at  the  approaching  storm,  when  soon  an  in 
describably  grand  conflict,  or  agitation  of  the  elements, 
was  presented,  where  lightnings,  thunders,  rain,  and  wind, 
seemed  to  be  contending  for  the  mastery,  in  their  startling 
displays.  Thunder-bursts  held  you  in  awe,  flashes  of 


286  WESTERN    PORTRAITURE. 

lightning  would  make  you  start  and  shrink;  gusts  of 
wind  whirled  you  in  the  high  grass;  and  rain  torrents 
drenched  you  to  the  skin :  yet,  suffering  and  dreading  all, 
you  felt  no  power  or  will  to  escape — there  was  no  retreat, 
no  refuge — the  jarring  sounds  vibrated  on  every  hand, 
torrents  and  blaze  poured  around  in  every  direction,  the 
muscles,  alike  with  volition,  seemed  paralyzed — two  sensa 
tions  alone  took  possession  of  you,  awe  and  admiration  ; 
which,  anon,  as  you  looked  aloft  into  the  dread  concave, 
were  resolved  into  that  of  heart-homage  for  Him  who 
holdeth  the  storms  in  His  hand.  The  herds  which  grazed 
upon  these  luxuriant  meadows  ran,  in  confused  fright, 
down  the  vales  to  the  groves ;  the  crane  and  wild-bird  flew, 
screaming  with  fear,  to  the  forests  for  shelter.  All  was* 
one  boundless  scene  of  rushing  dread.  The  expanded 
prairie  carpeted  in  deep  green  below;  above,  the  dark 
blue  clouds,  with  their  pendant  folds,  were  ranged  along, 
one  after  another,  (like  the  lower  edges  of  curtains  in  the 
theater's  dome,)  as  you  gazed  toward  the  east,  the  nearest 
being  darkest,  then  an  interval  of  hesitating  light  falling 
between,  then  another  cloud-sheet  was  swinging,  and  so  on 
in  a  series  of  some  half  a  dozen,  till  at  the  farther  end  of 
the  arched- way  greater  light  appeared,  much  as  if  you 
looked  for  miles  through  a  vast  tunnel,  with  occasional 
openings  for  light  from  above.  While  I  was  gazing,  ab 
sorbed,  upon  this  already  gorgeous  spectacle,  the  fury  of 
the  storm  had  abated,  the  black  upper  clouds  were  mostly 
dispersed,  and  as  a  brighter  sky  poured  its  floods  of  light 
into  this  magnificent  amphitheater,  its  splendor  and  beauty 
were  hightened  beyond  all  description,  and  presented  a 
panorama  to  the  rapt  beholder  which  unmistakably  pro 
claimed  that  only  by  the  Almighty  could  it  have  been 
swung  out  before  the  world :  and  presently  the  Author's 
signature  was  dashed  across  it  in  the  bright  BOW  which 
clasped  the  whole. 


THUNDER  STORMS LAND  MONOPOLY.        287 

Not  often  can  such  scenes  be  witnessed ;  a  single  view, 
a  moment's  study,  of  such  a  master-piece  would  be  worth 
months  of  examination  in  the  old  artistic  pantheons  of 
Italy,  to  the  ingenious  and  enthusiastic  votary  of  line  and 
color ;  but  my  description  is  only  a  feeble  picture  of  the 
original  scene. 

The  pitiless  storm  which  raged  in  mercy  over  the  frantic 
head  of  Lear  presented  only  the  sable,  frowning  features 
of  a  night-storm,  while  to  that  which  overwhelmed  the 
prairie  traveler  were  flung  out  all  the  glories  of  the  day- 
god's  bright  drapery  and  glittering  sheen. 

Though  it  lacked  a  few  hours  of  night,  when  I  experi 
enced  the  above  storm,  still,  in  the  following  graphic  de 
scription,  by  Dr.  R.  W.  GRISWOLD,  of  similar  storms,  I  can 
read  the  deep  soul-poetry  of  such  exhibitions  of  nature  in 
her  mighty  freedom : 

"  The  summer  sun  has  sunk  to  rest 

Below  the  green-clad  hills, 
And  through  the  skies,  careering  fast, 
The  storm-cloud  rides  upon  the  blast, 

And  now  the  rain  distills  ! 
The  flash  we  see,  the  peal  we  hear, 

Till  pains  the  ear. 
It  is  the  voice  of  the  Storm-King 
Riding  upon  the  lightning's  wing, 
Leading  his  bannered  hosts  across  the  darkened  sky, 
And  drenching  with  his  floods  the  sterile  lands  and  dry. 

"The  wild  beasts  to  their  covers  fly, 
The  night-birds  flee  from  heaven, 
The  dense  black  clouds  that  veil  the  sky, 
Darkening  the  vast  expanse  on  high, 

By  streaming  fires  are  riven. 
Again  the  tempest's  thunder  tone, 
The  sounds  from  forests  overthrown, 

Like  trumpets  blown 
Deep  in  the  bosom  of  the  storm, 
Proclaim  his  presence  in  its  form, 
Who  doth  the  scepter  of  the  concave  hold. 
Who  freed  the  winds,  and  the  vast  clouds  unrolled." 

Of  the  evils  of  Land-monopoly — the  accumulation  of 
large,  too  large  tracts  of  land  in  the  ownership  of  a  single 


288  WESTERN    PORTRAITURE. 

person  or  of  a  corporation — at  the  West,  as  elsewhere,  I 
have  repeatedly  spoken,  and  here  again  remark  upon  it. 
I  speak  thus  often  of  it,  because,  wherever  we  move,  every 
step  we  take,  almost,  we  meet  it ;  we  see  its  injurious 
effects  upon  community ;  it  is  not  only  detrimental  to 
communities  and  neighborhoods,  but  it  is  largely  detri 
mental  to  the  best  progress  and  prosperity  of  the  Nation, 
by  retarding  the  settlement  and  population  of  the  frontier 
and  exposed  borders  of  the  New  States,  and  by  hindering 
useful  and  comfortable  improvements  among  the  few  set 
tlers  in  those  locations — extensive  and  non-resident  owners 
neither  laboring  and  improving  themselves,  nor  selling  the 
large  tracts  at  fair  prices  to  those  who  would  do  it — such 
as  making  roads,  sustaining  schools,  churches,  and  town 
operations. 

There  is  a  very  just  policy  that  might  be  pursued  by 
Congress,  to  abate  this  evil,  and  greatly  subserve  both  the 
the  national  and  personal  interests  of  the  West,  as  well  as 
East. 

Let  the  Government  allow  to  every  person  wTho  will  go 
on  and  improve — become  an  actual  occupant — the  free 
right  to  80  or  160  acres  of  the  wild  lands — give  him,  with 
out  price,  a  suitable  quantity  for  a  comfortable  farm — and 
at  the  same  time  prohibit  any  person  from  buying  or  pos 
sessing  any  more  than  that  amount ;  or  cease  altogether 
the  traffic  in  public  lands,  and  dispose  of  them  only  by 
gift  to  actual  settlers.  By  pursuing  such  a  course,  Gov-. 
eminent  would  encourage  the  speedier  filling  up  our 
vast  domain,  now  lying  waste  and  useless,  with  an  indus 
trious  and  enterprising  population  of  agriculturists  and 
mechanics,  who  would  speedily  make  roads,  farms,  fill 
schools  and  churches,  bring  up  the  treasures  of  the  earth ; 
and  these,  singly  or  combined,  are  a  nation's  greatest 
wealth,  and  its  surest  protection. 

Where  a  man's  HOME  is,  there  is  his  deepest  interest — 


HOME ITS    INFLUENCE.  289 

there  his  deepest  treasure  is — when  he  has  a  spot  on  terra 
Jirma  that  is  his  own,  and  his  home  is  located  there,  he  at 
once  feels  that  he  has  more  than  a  passing  interest  in  the 
peace  and  prosperity  of  the  nation,  that  his  welfare  and 
the  welfare  of  the  nation  are  identical ;  and  as  he  will 
strive,  endure,  toil,  every  thing,  for  Home,  so  then  would 
he  do  the  same  for  the  country ;  in  defending  the  nation 
he  defends  his  home ;  and  what  soldier- wages  or  camp- 
pleasures  can  make  a  man  risk,  suffer,  and  combat  to  the 
extent  and  with  the  devotion  that  his  love  of  Home  will  ? 

HOME  !  four  sweet  letters ;  what  other  word,  in  the 
whole  vocabulary  of  our  language,  expresses  so  much  that 
is  lovely ;  around  what  other  little  name  do  so  many  en 
dearments,  such  sweet  associations,  cluster;  what  other 
single  short  syllable  embraces  in  its  significance  all  that  is 
desirable  in  society  or  worth  toiling  for  on  earth?  In  its 
full  development  are  life,  love,  and  joy ;  and  which  are  all 
combined  nowhere  but  in  Home. 

Then,  if  we  would  have  a  happy,  holy,  and  loyal  com 
munity,  let  us  establish  and  secure  as  many  independent, 
self  home-owning  citizens  as  possible  in  the  nation — per 
manent  operators  upon  their  own  premises — and  reduce  as 
far  as  we  may  the  number  of  the  birds  of  passage,  who 
to-day  are  here,  but  to-morrow  are  somewhere  else.  And 
though  worthy  people  oftentimes,  unsettled  persons  can 
not  be  relied  upon  to  the  full  extent,  by  government  or 
society,  in  all  emergencies,  as  can  those  who  own  perma 
nent  homes,  and  live  upon  them.  Hence  Government 
will  advance  its  greatest  welfare  by  doing  what  it  can  to 
induce  the  full  settlement  of  Western  lands. 

In  one  of  his  letters  from  Europe,  HORACE  GREELEY 
thus  speaks  of  the  love  of  country  and  home  with  the 
American : 

"  But  I  must  not  linger.     The  order  to  embark  is  given ;  our 
good  ship  Baltic  is  ready;  another  hour,  and  I  shall  have  left  Eng- 
25 


290  WESTERN    PORTRAITURE. 

land  and  this  Continent,  probably  for  ever.  With  a  fervent  good 
bye  to  the  friends  I  leave  on  this  side  of  the  Atlantic,  I  turn  niy 
steps  gladly  and  proudly  toward  my  own  loved  Western  home — 
toward  the  land  wherein  man  enjoys  larger  opportunities  than 
elsewhere  to  develop  the  better  and  the  worse  aspects  of  his  nature, 
and  where  evil  and  good  have  a  freer  course,  a  wider  arena  for 
their  inevitable  struggles,  than  is  allowed  them  among  the  fetters 
and  cast-iron  forms  of  this  rigid  and  wrinkled  Old  World.  Doubt 
less  those  struggles  will  long  be  arduous  and  trying ;  doubtless,  the 
dictates  of  duty  will  there  often  bear  sternly  away  from  the  hal 
cyon  bowers  of  popularity  ;  doubtless,  he  who  would  be  singly  and 
wholly  right  must  there  encounter  ordeals  as  severe  as  those  which 
here  try  the  souls  of  the  would-be  champions  of  progress  and 
liberty. 

"  But  political  freedom,  such  as  white  men  enjoy  in  the  United 
States,  and  the  mass  do  not  enjoy  in  Europe,  not  even  in  Britain, 
is  a  basis  for  confident  and  well-grounded  hope  ;  the  running 
stream,  though  turbid,  tends  ever  to  self-purification;  the  ob 
structed,  stagnant  pool  grows  daily  more  dank  and  loathsome. 
Believing  most  firmly  in  the  ultimate  and  perfect  triumph  of  good 
over  evil,  I  rejoice  in  the  existence  and  diffusion  of  that  liberty 
which,  while  it  intensifies  the  contest,  accelerates  the  consumma 
tion.  Neither  blind  to  her  errors  nor  a  panderer  to  her  vices,  I  re 
joice  to  feel  that  every  hour  henceforth  till  I  see  her  shores  must 
lessen  the  distance  which  divides  me  from  my  country,  whose  ad 
vantages  and  blessings  this  four  months'  absence  has  taught  me  to 
apprecate  more  clearly  and  to  prize  more  deeply  than  before. 
With  a  glow  of  unwonted  rapture  I  see  our  stately  vessel's  prow 
turned  toward  the  setting  sun,  and  strive  to  realize  that  only  some 
ten  days  separate  me  from  those  I  know  and  love  best  on  earth. 

"  Hark !  the  last  gun  announces  that  the  mail-boat  has  left  us, 
and  that  we  are  fairly  afloat  on  our  ocean  journey  ;  the  shores  of 
Europe  recede  from  our  vision  ;  the  watery  waste  is  all  around  us ; 
and  now,  with  God  above  and  death  below,  our  gallant  bark  and 
her  clustered  company  together  brave  the  dangers  of  the  mighty 
deep.  May  Infinite  Mercy  watch  over  our  onward  path  and  bring 
us  safely  to  our  several  homes ;  for  to  die  away  from  home  and 
kindred  seems  one  of  the  saddest  calamities  that  could  befall  me. 
This  mortal  tenement  would  rest  uneasily  in  an  ocean  shroud; 
this  spirit  reluctantly  resign  that  tenement  to  the  chill  and  pitiless 
brine  ;  these  eyes  close  regretfully  on  the  stranger  skies  and  bleak 
inhospitalities  of  the  sullen  and  stormy  main.  No !  let  me  see 


FARMING    AND    IMPLEMENTS.  291 

once  more  the  scenes  so  well  remembered  and  beloved ;  let  me 
grasp,  if  but  once  again,  the  hand  of  friendship,  and  hear  the 
thrilling  accents  of  proved  affection,  and  when  sooner  or  later  the 
hour  of  mortaf  agony  shall  come,  let  my  last  gaze  be  fixed  on  eyes 
that  will  not  forget  me  when  I  am  gone,  and  let  my  ashes  repose  in 
that  congenial  soil  which,  however  I  may  there  be  esteemed  or 
hated,  is  still 

"  'My  own  green  land  forever.'  " 

In  these  Prairie  regions  the  farming  work  is  generally 
done  more  expeditiously  than  in  the  East ;  a  larger  pro 
portion  of  it  being  performed  by  labor-saving  machines  in 
the  former  than  the  latter  locations. 

The  plowing,  or  breaking  up  prairie,  is  generally  done 
with  from  four  to  six  yoke  of  oxen,  or  horse-team  of  equal 
strength,  drawing  plows  which  turn  a  furrow  of  from  30 
to  40  inches  wide,  and  in  some  instances  even  wider; 
plowing  two,  three,  and  sometimes  four  acres  a  day  with 
one  plow.  These,  as  well  as  the  small  plows,  are  made 
of  sheet  steel,  and  polished  on  emery  wheels,  so  that  they 
are  light  and  slip  through  the  soil  very  smoothly.  Gener 
ally,  therefore,  plowing  is  done  in  the  West  much  more 
expeditiously  than  at  the  East. 

Corn  is  cultivated  mostly  with  a  cultivator,  and  very 
little  time  is  spent  with  the  hoe,  so  that  this  branch  of 
work  is  done  up  rapidly. 

Wheat  and  other  fine  grains  are,  to  a  considerable  ex 
tent,  beginning  to  be  put  in  with  a  drill,  by  which  both 
time  and  seed  are  saved,  and  greater  certainty  of  crop  se 
cured.  The  drills  mostly  used  and  approved  at  the  West, 
are  those  invented  by  Piersons  and  by  Gatling ;  and  there 
are  others,  preferred  by  some  farmers. 

The  grain  is  almost  wholly  cut  by  harvesting  machines. 
Those  most  in  use  are  McCormick's,  Hussey's,  Danforth's, 
Haine's,  Cook's,  Seymour  and  Morgan's,  and  some  others. 
It  is  said  that  Hussey's  and  McCormick's  have  proved  to 
be  superior ;  they  were  tested  at  the  World's  Fair. 


292  WESTERN    PORTRAITURE. 

Mowing  machines  are  also  beginning  to  be  much  used 
to  cut  the  hay  on  the  large  prairie-meadows ;  and  they  are 
found  to  serve  an  admirable  purpose.  There  are  already 
a  number  of  these  machines  in  the  field  that  work  well, 
among  which  are  Scoville's,  Danforth's,  McCormick's,  and 
others. 

Then  there  are  a  great  number  of  thrashers,  some  of 
which  thrash  in  the  field,  and  others  at  the  yard  and  in  the 
barn. 

In  cases  where  immigrants  lack  the  necessary  means 
and  help,  within  themselves,  to  make  a  full  and  easy  com 
mencement  at  the  West,  or  to  secure,  on  the  start,  the 
privileges  of  society  around  their  new  homes,  it  would  be 
a  judicious  and  convenient  plan,  for  numbers  of  farmers, 
mechanics,  and  others  to  join  their  forces  and  settle  down 
together,  in  some  place  well  selected  for  health  and  natu 
ral  advantages,  in  the  shape  of  a  colony — with  or  without 
all  interests  in  common,  as  shall  be  most  agreeable  to  all 
concerned — where  they  may  help  one  another,  in  the 
heavier  portions  of  their  work,  and  "join  teams  to  break 
up,"  as  one  man,  generally,  cannot  afford  to  own  four  to 
six  yokes  of  oxen,  a  team  sufficient  for  the  first  plowing 
the  rich  heavy  prairies.  Going  in  colonies  or  companies, 
this  way,  not  only  renders  business  lighter,  but  furnishes 
at  once  the  pleasures  of  society,  which  are  not  enjoyed  in 
the  early  sparse  settlements  of  a  new  country. 

The  following  announcement  in  the  New  York  Tribune, 
last  summer,  is  an  instance  of  this  manner  of  operation : 

"  A  movement  is  being  made  in  this  city  for  the  organization  of 
a  company  to  form  a  new  settlement  on  the  public  lands  of  the 
West.  The  scheme  is  to  take  up  a  township  of  Government  land, 
six  miles  square,  by  means  of  a  fund  accumulated  by  individual 
subscriptions.  The  number  required  will  be  about  100,  each  of 
whom  is  to  be  allowed  to  subscribe  for  160  acres,  or  less,  and  a 
village  lot  of  three  or  four  acres.  The  period  required  to  com- 


COLONY UNION    OF    LABOR.  293 

plete  the  organization  of  the  company  and  the  purchase  of  the 
land  will  not  probably  extend  beyond  April  or  May  next. 

"  The  proportion  of  artizans  required  for  each  department  of 
industry  to  organize '  and  commence  the  settlement  of  a  single 
township  and  village,  is  estimated  to  be  nearly  as  follows  : 

"  Agriculturists,  50  ;  Bakers,  2 ;  Barber,  1 ;  Blacksmiths,  4  ; 
Bookseller  and  Stationer,  1 ;  Boot  and  Shoemakers,  6 ;  Brick- 
makers,  8  ;  Bricklayers,  4  ;  Butcher,  1  ;  Cabinetmakers,  4  ; 
Cooper,  1 ;  Millers,  2  ;  General  Merchants,  2  ;  Grocers,  2  ;  Hard 
ware  and  Tinshop,  1 ;  House  Carpenters  and  Joiners,  20 ;  Lime- 
burners,  2;  Laborers,  10;  Masons,  10;  Printers  (Newspaper),  2; 
Painters,  2  ;  Physician,  1 ;  Saddle  and  Harnessmakers,  4  ;  Sawmill 
Hands,  8  ;  Tailors,  4  ;  Wagon  and  Carriagemakers,  8  ;  all  of  whom 
are  supposed  to  be  employers  and  journeymen." 

Whether  the  proportion  into  which  the  various  branches 
of  laborers  are  above  distributed  is  correct,  I  am  not  pre 
pared  to  say  positively ;  at  least,  the  number  of  farmers 
there  set  down  is  full  small  enough ;  for  the  number  of 
mechanics  stated  could  do  more  work  in  their  lines  than 
that  number  of  farmers  would  require ;  but  perhaps  that 
would  be  no  objection,  as  mechanics  could  do  some  agri 
cultural  labor,  as  well  for  their  health  as  profit ;  and  every 
shopkeeper  ought  to  own  a  piece  of  land,  more  or  less,  on 
which  he  would  find  it  pleasant  to  devote  some  portion  of 
his  time. 

Such  companies  should  look  out  to  have  established 
among  them  good  liberal  schools,  and  well  supplied  reading 
rooms,  where  they  might  have  access  to  books  and  papers, 
during  their  leisure  hours. 


294  WESTERN    PORTRAITURE. 


MISCELLANEOUS. 

THE  Exemption  and  Collection  Laws  of  these  three 
Western  States,  are  all  very  liberal ;  and,  in  that  respect, 
are  an  advance  upon  the  Eastern  States  ;  still,  men  pay 
their  debts  full  as  promptly  in  the  former  as  the  latter  re 
gion. 

HOMESTEAD  EXEMPTION. — In  the  State  of  Illinois,  the 
amount  exempted  from  forced  sale  for  debt  is  $1,000; 
either  a  house  and  lot  in  town,  or  a  farm  and  appurten 
ances.  In  Wisconsin,  the  amount  is  a  farm  of  40  acres, 
with  buildings,  etc. ;  or  a  town  lot  of  one-fourth  acre,  with 
the  buildings  on  it.  In  Iowa,  a  town  lot  or  farm,  not  to 
exceed  in  either  case  the  value  of  $500.  The  exemption 
is  valid  only  while  the  debtor  or  family  live  on  the  prem 
ises  ;  and  an  exception  is  made  in  favor  of  Mechanics' 
liens,  and  of  mortgages  voluntarily  signed. 

PERSONAL  PROPERTY  EXEMPTION. — In  Illinois,  necessary 
wearing  apparel ;  bedsteads  and  bedding  for  family ;  ne 
cessary  stoves  and  cooking  utensils;  and  $15  worth  of 
other  furniture ;  two  sheep  and  fleeces,  or  equal  amount 
of  wool  purchased,  to  each  member  of  family ;  one  cow 
and  calf;  necessary  food  for  family  and  stock  for  three 
months ;  working  implements  in  the  house ;  and  $60 
worth  of  other  property,  suited  to  wants  or  wishes  of 
debtor;  and  the  rights  of  burial,  etc.  In  Wisconsin, 
books,  pictures,  and  rights  of  burial ;  all  necessary  wear 
ing  apparel,  with  household  furniture  worth  $200 ;  two 
cows ;  ten  swine ;  span  of  horses,  or  one  horse  and  yoke 
of  oxen ;  ten  sheep  and  wool  from  same,  in  fleece  or  fab 
rics  ;  food  for  family  and  stock  one  year ;  wagon  or  cart 


VOTERS CHURCHES    AND    COLLEGES.  295 

and  sleigh ;  plow,  drag,  and  other  tackle  for  team  of  $50 
worth.  In  Iowa,  Bible,  school  books,  and  library  of  $100 
value ;  one  cow  and  calf;  one  horse,  or  yoke  of  oxen ; 
twelve  sheep  and  their  wool,  in  fleece  or  fabrics;  five 
swine ;  the  flax  in  the  possession  of  the  family,  or  the 
fabrics  made  from  it ;  necessary  beds  and  bedding ;  one 
hundred  yards  of  cloth  made  up  by  the  family ;  all  spin 
ning  wheels  and  looms  kept  for  use;  stove  and  pipe,  with 
other  furniture  to  amount  of  $50 ;  mechanics'  tools  neces 
sary  for  use;  and  the  necessary  books  and  instruments 
for  lawyers  and  doctors  to  practice  their  professions.  In 
the  case  of  claim  of  Mechanics'  liens,  suits  must  be  pros 
ecuted  within  six  months  in  Illinois,  and  within  one  year 
in  Wisconsin  and  Iowa. 

QUALIFICATIONS  OF  VOTERS. — In  Illinois,  all  white  male 
citizens,  of  the  age  of  21  years,  who  have  resided  in  the 
State  six  months  next  preceding  the  election.  In  Wis 
consin,  all  white  male  citizens,  21  years  of  age,  who  have 
resided  in  the  State  one  year  next  preceding  the  election. 
In  Iowa,  all  white  male  citizens,  of  the  age  of  21  years, 
who  have  resided  in  the  State  one  year,  and  20  days  in 
the  county  next  preceding  the  election. 

RELIGIOUS  SOCIETIES. — Most  of  the  ordinary  religious 
denominations  are  thoroughly  established  in  these  States ; 
and  nearly  all  of  them  have  flourishing  Colleges  in  differ 
ent  locations.  And  such  institutions  are  as  generally  at 
tended  to  and  liberally  sustained,  in  proportion  to  popula 
tion  and  ability,  in  the  West  as  at  the  East. 

I  cannot  say  which  sect  is  most  numerous ;  but  the  Pres 
byterians,  Baptists,  Methodists,  Episcopalians,  Catholics, 
and  Universalists  all  have  churches  in  most  of  the  towns 
and  settlements.  There  are  also  flourishing  societies  of  the 
New  Jerusalem  Church  or  Swedenborgians,  in  Chicago, 
Peoria,  and  some  other  towns.  There  also  some  Quakers 
and  Friends  in  some  of  the  towns ;  and  in  many  of  the 


296  WESTERN    PORTRAITURE. 

cities  and  towns  Jews  and  Mormons  are  to  be  found. '  In 
Illinois,  the  Rev.  Dr.  WHITEHOUSE,  of  New  York,  has  re 
cently  been  appointed  Bishop  over  the  Episcopal  churches. 

And  here  I  will  repeat  the  suggestion  to  Emigrants, 
that  it  is  eminently  desirable  that  they  should  all,  when 
ever  able  to  do  so,  take  into  the  New  States  all  the  im 
proved  stock,  good  seeds,  and  scions  for  fruit,  and  shrub 
bery  and  grove  trees ;  and  this,  too,  in  preference  to  taking 
much  furniture  or  tools  and  farming  implements ;  as  all 
of  those  can  be  obtained  of  the  best  quality  and  at  cheap 
rates  in  the  Western  cities  and  villages. 

Good  breeds  of  cattle,  horses,  sheep,  hogs,  and  poultry, 
with  choice  fruits  are  much  needed,  and  in  lively  demand. 


THE    WEST JOHN    E.    WHEELER.  297 


THE  HIGHER  ASPECTS   AND  PROMISES  OF 
THE  WEST. 

As  an  interesting  ornament  to  the  more  plain  and  sta 
tistical  aspects  of  my  rustic  picture,  I  here  insert  an  elegant 
sketch  from  the  pen  of  my  early  and  esteemed  friend,  JOHN 
E.  WHEELER,  Esq.,  one  of  the  purest  and  ablest  writers  of 
the  West ;  his  philosophy  is  pure  and  elevated,  and  his  re 
ligion  humane  and  spiritual.  For  years  the  leading  Editor 
of  the  Gem  of  the  Prairie,  and  the  Chicago  Daily  Tribune, 
his  spirit's  genius  raised  those  papers  to  an  elevation  of 
usefulness  and  popularity  unsurpassed,  if  riot  unequaled,  by 
any  other  journal  west  of  the  Lakes. 

He  has  alluded  to  the  West,  in  her  characteristics  of 
inspiration  to  Human  Improvement  and  upon  the  Artist. 
Surely,  no  portion  of  our  Continent — of  any  continent — is 
richer  in  natural  scenes,  to  challenge  the  enthusiastic  efforts 
of  the  pen,  pencil,  and  chisel,  than  that  portion  drained  by 
the  Mississippi  from  St.  Anthony's  to  St.  Louis,  bordered 
on  the  east  by  the  majestic  Lakes,  and  on  the  west  by  the 
boundless  Missouri  plains.  Here  the  aspiring  Artist,  of 
whatever  branch,  may  find  glowing  and  splendid  originals, 
from  which  to  make  more  living  copies  than  can  be  obtained 
from  the  master-pieces  in  ancient  and  rusty  pantheons  of 
the  Old  World ;  where  the  early  masters  excelled,  in  their 
times  and  sphere.  But  there  is  no  good  reason  why  Art 
should  not  progress  and  mount  up  to  greater  excellence, 
on  a  newer,  wider  soil — in  a  more  propitious,  freer  clime 
— as  has  Science,  and  Government,  and  Religion :  have 
not  all  these  improved,  to  a  higher  and  more  glorious 
standard,  in  the  New  World  ?  And  why  should  the  Painter 


298  WESTERN    PORTRAITURE. 

or  Sculptor  still  bend  in  an  agony  of  ambition  to  simply 
copy  the  excellence  of  Europe's  faded  masters  1  Indeed, 
EXCELSIOR  has  seized  America's  poet-pen  ;  let  it  also  fea 
ther  her  chisel  and  pencil  for  higher  flights. 

The  free,  fresh,  and  boundless  spirit  and  face  of  the  West, 
should  be  courted  to  dictate  a  style  and  inspire  a  taste 
above  and  beyond  the  samples  of  earlier  and  ruder  ages ; 
then  will  our  Artists,  as  do  our  Politicians,  surpass  their 
predecessors.  In  this  connection  Mr.  Wheeler  furnishes 
the  following,  at  my  request : 

"  We  remember,  some  year  or  two  since,  to  have  read 
a  discourse,  by  Rev.  Dr.  BUSHNELL,  the  subject  of  which 
was,  in  substance,  '  The  Barbarian  Tendencies  of  Society 
at  the  West ;'  and  on  this  view  of  the  subject  the  reverend 
gentleman  predicated  an  appeal  to  Christianity  and  Benev 
olence  to-put  forth  the  necessary  efforts  to  save  this  Gar 
den  of  the  Union  from  a  relapse  into  barbarism.  This 
tendency,  he  supposed,  grew  out  of  the  disruption  of  so 
cial,  religious,  and  political  ties  in  the  case  of  those  seeking 
homes  in  the  West — the  jarring  and  heterogeneous  char 
acter  of  the  social  elements,  drawn  as  they  are  from  all 
quarters  of  the  world — and  the  unbridled  license  result 
ing  from  the  well  known  disregard,  in  new  commu 
nities,  of  the  various  restraints  by  which  men  are  moulded 
and  held  in  check  in  the  older  States. 

"After  our  first  surprise  was  over  at  the  idea  of  a  ten 
dency  to  'barbarism'  in  any  portion  of  our  country,  espe 
cially  the  great  and  glorious  West,  we  were,  on  second 
thought,  obliged  to  confess  that  there  was  a  sort  of  half 
truth  in  it.  We  know,  from  a  study  of  the  whole  course 
of  human  history,  that  no  real  progress  in  the  elevation 
and  refinement  of  the  race  can  be  made  while  it  is  migra 
tory  or  nomadic.  Man,  like  a  tree,  must  plant  the  roots 
of  his  institutions  deep  in  the  soil,  before  they  can  lift 
themselves  in  beauty  and  majesty  toward  heaven.  And, 


THE    WEST JOHN    E.    WHEELER.  299 

of  course,  all  disordered  states  of  society,  just  in  the  degree 
they  approach  the  migratory  character,  are  unfavorable  to 
advancement  in  any  direction. 

"  We  understand,  from  long-continued  observation,  the 
evils  incident  to  the  unsettled  character  of  society  at  the 
West ;  and  we  are  also  aware,  from  the  same  course  of 
observation,  that  Dr.  Bushnell  took  a  one-sided  and  very 
partial  view  of  the  subject.  The  evils  which  he  enume 
rates  are,  in  the  very  nature  of  things,  temporary ;  while 
the  vast  good  which  is  to  grow  out  of  the  fusion  of  races 
upon  the  great  theater  of  the  Mississippi  Valley,  is  in 
calculable.  Consider  the  character  of  immigrants  who 
have  settled  in,  and  are  still  crowding  in  an  unbroken  hu 
man  tide  to  that  magnificent  region  ;  surely  they  are  many 
removes  from  'barbarism,'  and  we  see  no  reason  why  a 
mere  change  of  location  should  transform  them  from  civil 
ized  to  barbarous  men.  The  predominant  element  is,  of 
course,  the  Anglo-Saxon,  and,  to  a  large  extent,  of  the  Pu 
ritan  stock — the  most  orderly,  self-governing  race  in  exist 
ence.  They  are  not  the  broken  down,  inefficient  members 
of  the  communities  from  which  they  come ;  but,  as  a 
general  thing,  the  most  intelligent  and  energetic  among 
them.  They  carry  within  themselves,  wherever  they  go, 
all  of  the  elements  of  an  orderly,  well-governed  State,  and 
of  polished  communities.  It  is  true  that  multitudes  of 
foreigners,  less  favorably  developed,  constitute  a  large  por 
tion  of  the  people  of  the  West ;  but  the  intelligent  and  the 
cultivated  are  sufficiently  numerous  to  give  a  tone  to  pub 
lic  sentiment  and  manners,  and  a  right  direction  to  public 
affairs. 

"Throughout  Illinois,  Wisconsin,  and  Iowa,  of  which 
this  volume  principally  treats,  whole  neighborhoods,  and 
even  clusters  of  counties,  are  found  which  exhibit  all  the 
intelligence  and  refinement  of  any  portion  of  the  Eastern 
States.  They  are  foremost  in  all  works  tending  toward 


300  WESTERN     PORTRAITURE. 

material  progress ;  religion  is  honored,  and  its  institutions 
liberally  sustained ;  and  a  special  zeal  is  manifested  in  the 
advancement  of  general  education  ;  and  in  matters  of  taste 
— an  appreciation  of  those  little  refinements  that  add  a 
charm  to  social  intercourse,  and  throw  a  grace  around  the 
externals  of  life — they  might,  in  frequent  instances,  serve 
as  models  to  those  who  have  always  lived  in  the  midst  of 
such  associations. 

"The  reverend  gentleman  to  whom  we  have  referred, 
while  he  has  seen  and  pointed  out  some  of  the  evils  inse 
parable  from  the  unsettled  state  of  society  at  the  West, 
has,  it  seems  to  us,  strangely  overlooked  one  of  its  strik 
ingly  hopeful  phases — we  mean  the  almost  absolute  free 
dom  of  mind  which  is  there  enjoyed.  There  is  in  this  a 
good,  calculable  by  no  ordinary  mode  of  computa 
tion. 

"  Freedom  is  indispensable  to  the  development  of  human 
character,  whether  in  the  individual  man  or  in  the  more 
complex  man  composed  of  a  community  or  a  state.  If 
we  would  put  ourselves  in  a  position  favorable  to  the 
attainment  of  some  great  good,  we  must,  by  a  law  of  eter 
nal  necessity,  at  the  same  time  subject  ourselves  to  the 
liability  of  falling  into  its  opposite  evil.  Between  these 
two  opposing  powers  is  the  only  proper  theater  of  whole 
some  discipline.  Never  were  a  people  placed  in  so  favor 
able  a  position,  in  this  respect,  as  those  of  the  West.  The 
danger  which  they  incur  is  only  temporary,  while  the  good 
which  is  to  result  from  the  struggle  will  be  as  enduring  as 
the  soul  itself. 

"Freedom,  as  we  have  said,  is  absolutely  essential, 
whatever  risks  may  be  incurred  by  its  exercise.  Without 
it  a  community  must  be  either  stationary,  if  that  be  possi 
ble,  or  in  a  state  of  retrogradation.  With  it,  we  see  what 
has  been  and  is  to  be  achieved  by  the  people  of  the  West. 
Their  energies  and  aspirations  seem  to  be  expanding  into 


HIGHER    ASPECTS    OF    THE    WEST.  301 

correspondence  with  the  noble  features  of  the  country 
which  they  inhabit.  Nowhere  else  do  we  see  such  simul- 
taneousness  of  conception  and  execution.  Without  irrev 
erence,  it  may  almost  be  said,  they  speak,  and  it  is  done. 
Nowhere  else  is  there  such  an  arena  for  the  free  exer 
cise  of  Thought  in  canvassing  all  questions — nowhere  else 
such  complete  toleration  of  the  most  variant  forms  of  opin 
ion.  And,  we  may  confidently  add,  that  -nowhere  else  in 
this  great  confederacy  of  States,  is  there  such  hope  for  the 
future  in  respect  to  all  that  can  dignify  and  elevate  the 
race.  In  the  broad  valley  of  the  Father  of  Waters  this 
young  but  great  Republic  can  stretch  its  free  limbs,  and 
give  as  full  and  beneficent  play  to  its  heart  and  intellect  as 
is  now  enjoyed  by  the  winds  which  career  over  its  broad  roll 
ing  plains,  and  the  majestic  streams  which  course  as  the  life- 
blood  of  the  land  for  thousands  of  miles  through  its  bo 
som. 

"  The  vast  material  resources  of  this  region  are  treated 
of  at  large  in  preceding  pages.  These  are  necessary  as 
the  foundation  of  a  true  social  edifice,  and  no  other  portion 
of  the  world  presents  them  in  so  great  profusion.  We 
have  seen  also  that  they  are  being  developed  and  applied 
to  the  noblest  uses  on  the  most  magnificent  scale.  Young 
as  society  is  there  at  present,  in  the  more  thickly  set 
tled  portions  of  the  country  it  will  compare  favorably  with 
the  better  aspects  of  society  in  the  oldest  and  most  flour 
ishing  States.  What,  then,  may  we  not  predict  for  the 
future  ?  We  feel  confident  that  society  in  the  West,  just 
so  soon  as  the  material  tbasis  shall  be  sufficiently  con 
solidated,  will  flower  into  such  beautiful  and  harmonious 
proportions  as  the  world  never  witnessed  before.  Intelli 
gence  will  be  as  widely  diffused  as  the  sunlight.  The  rather 
free  manners  which  now  prevail  will  be  softened  by  time 
and  culture  to  a  noble,  graceful  courtesy,  and  the  whole 
community  be  brought  up  to  the  standard  which  we  now 


802  WESTERN    PORTRAITURE. 

see  exhibited  here  and  there  in  individuals.  Religion, 
purified  from  sectarian  narrowness  by  the  tolerant  strife 
of  manifold  opinion,  will,  by  its  attractiveness  and  power, 
win  all  hearts  but  those  of  the  hopelessly  incorrigible. 
Need  we  say  that,  when  all  this  shall  come  to  pass,  Art 
will  here  find  its  chosen  home,  as  the  highest  expression 
of  all  that  is  beautiful  and  harmonious  in  the  heart  and 
mind  of  the  people  ?  Will  not  numerous  shrines  then  be 
reared  to  the  Beautiful — that  heavenly  vesture  which 
hovers  over  and  sanctifies  all  noble  uses — and  the  pen  of 
the  Poet,  the  pencil  of  the  Painter,  and  the  chisel  of  the 
Sculptor,  vie  with  each  other  in  '  bodying  forth'  her  high 
est  ideals,  as  vouchsafed  to  the  most  harmonious  souls  ? 
We  believe  so.  All  will  come  in  good  time.  The  politi 
cal  empire  of  the  West  over  this  Union  will  ere  long  be 
undoubted  and  universally  acknowledged.  It  is  consoling 
to  think  that  its  sway  will  be  as  beneficent  as  the  vastness 
of  its  power  and  manifold  wealth  for  all  the  uses  of  man." 
NAMES  OF  STATES. — Most  of  the  States  are  known  by 
other  appellatives  than  the  incorporate  ones ;  as  the  "  Em 
pire  State,"  the  "  Key-stone  State,"  the  "  Buck-eye  State," 
etc.  The  more  Western  States  also  have  their  provincial 
sobriquets ;  Michigan  is  the  "  Wolvarine  State,"  from  its 
great  number  of  small  mischievous  prairie  wolves ;  the  In- 
dianians  are  called  "  Hooshers,"  from  a  little  incident  which 
occurred  with  some  of  the  earlier  settlers,  and  is,  in  fact,  a 
contraction  of  the  phrase,  "  Who  is  here  ?"  Wisconsin  is 
called  the  «'  Badger  State,"  from  the  numbers  of  that  little 
animal  found  there,  and  seldom  seen  in  other  parts  of  the 
Mississippi  country.  Iowa  is  called  the  "  Hawk-eye  State," 
from  the  great  number  of  hawks  and  buzzards  formerly 
found  in  that  region,  as  some  say ;  while  others  contend, 
an  illustrious  Indian  chief  of  that  name  wTas  once  a  terror 
to  voyageurs  to  its  borders.  The  Illinoians  are  called 
"  Suckers,"  from  the  customs  of  the  early  settlers,  who 


ROUTES   OF    TRAVEL.  808 

were  in  the  habit,  in  spring-time,  of  going  up  to  the  mines 
to  labor ;  and  in  the  fall,  at  the  approach  of  Jack  Frost, 
returning  to  the  warmer  south ;  thus,  running  up  in  the 
spring,  and  down  in  the  fall,  which  is  the  natural  habit  of 
the  fish  known  as  suckers.  Illinois  is  also  called  the  "  Prai 
rie  State,"  from  its  immense  superior  prairies.  The  Mis- 
sourians  are  called  "  Pukes,"  from  the  great  amount  of 
sickness  which  used  to  be  suffered  on  its  rivers. 

ROUTES  OF  TRAVEL. — For  the  information  and  conve 
nience  of  travelers  and  emigrants,  I  give  the  following  de 
scription  of  some  of  the  principal  mediums  of  conveyance, 
from  the  Atlantic  seaboard,  for  reaching  the  Great  Lakes 
and  the  Mississippi ;  and  cross  routes  to  the  Ohio  and  the 
Missouri  rivers.  I  am  not  able  to  give  all  of  the  lines  of 
travel ;  but  have  given  those  most  traveled  and  the  most 
popular. 

From  New  York,  Boston,  and  other  Atlantic  towns, 
Passengers  and  Freight  are  conveyed  to  Buffalo  and  Dun 
kirk  by  various  lines  of  Railroads,  Riverboats,  and  Canals ; 
the  New  York  and  Erie,  and  the  Hudson  River,  and  Alba 
ny  and  Buffalo  Railroads,  being  the  principal  and  favorite 
routes. 

From  Buffalo  and  Dunkirk  regular  lines  of  first  class 
Steamers  run  daily  to  Cleveland,  fare  $1  to  $3 ;  to  Monroe, 
Toledo,  and  Detroit,  fare  $2  to  $4 ;  to  places  on  St.  Clair 
lake  and  river,  and  to  Mackinaw,  fare  $5  to  $7 ;  and  to 
all  ports  on  the  Western  Shore  of  Lake  Michigan,  fare  $4 
to  $8.  Time  of  running  from  Monroe,  Toledo,  and  De 
troit, 'one  to  two  days;  to  Mackinaw,  three  to  four  days; 
and  to  Milwaukee  and  Chicago,  four  to  six  days. 

From  Chicago  and  other  ports  along  Lake  Michigan, 
boats  leave  weekly  for  Green  Bay.  From  Mackinaw  and 
Saut  Ste.  Marie's  a  boat  leaves  every  week  for  different 
ports  on  Lake  Superior,  to  the  copper  and  lead  regions, 
and  fur  trading  posts. 


304  WESTERN    PORTRAITURE. 

From  Detroit,  Monroe,  and  Toledo,  daily  trains  of 
Railroad  cars  leave  for  the  head  of  Lake  Michigan,  near 
Chicago,  whence  boats  or  stages  convey  passengers  to  that 
city,  and  other  places  on  the  Lake,  and  into  Illinois,  Indiana, 
Wisconsin,  and  Iowa. 

From  Sandusky,  on  Lake  Erie,  the  conveyance  to  Cin 
cinnati  is  by  Railroad;  distance,  218  miles;  time,  12  to 
16  hours;  fare,  $6.50  and  less  in  second  class  cars. 

From  Manhattan  and  Toledo  to  Evansville,  on  the  Ohio 
river,  by  Canal,  467  miles. 

From  Cleveland  to  Cincinnati  the  conveyance  is  by  Rail 
road,  via  Columbus ;  distance,  about  255  miles ;  fare,  $7.50 ; 
second  class,  less.  There  is  also  a  Canal  between  these 
places. 

From  Erie,  the  conveyance  to  the  Ohio,  at  Beaver,  is 
by  Canal ;  distance  about  140  miles ;  then  a  short  distance 
by  Steamboat  up  the  river  to  Pittsburg. 

From  Philadelphia  and  Baltimore,  to  Pittsburg  and 
Wheeling,  by  different  routes — Railroads,  Steamboats,  and 
Coaches  on  National  road — varying  in  distance,  from  390 
to  upward  of  400  miles  ;  time,  36  to  40  hours ;  fare,  $10 
and  $11.  Also,  a  route  by  Railroad  and  Canal,  about  390 
miles ;  time,  3  to  5  days ;  best  for  transportation  of  emi 
grants  and  goods,  as  it  is  much  cheaper. 

From  Pittsburg  down  the  Ohio  to  Mississippi  river  are 
several  lines  of  Steamboats.  To  New  Orleans,  distance, 
2,000  miles;  time,  12  days;  fare,  $12.  To  St.  Louis, 
distance,  1,200  miles;  time,  4  to  6  days;  fare,  $8  to  $10. 
To  Cairo,  distance  about  1,000  miles;  time,  3  to  5  days; 
fare,  $6  to  $8.  To  Cincinnati,  distance  about  500  miles ; 
time,  2  to  4  days ;  fare,  $4  to  $6.  To  Portsmouth,  dis 
tance,  370  miles ;  fare,  $3  to  $4.  To  Wheeling,  distance 
100  miles ;  fare,  $1  50. 

From  Cincinnati  to  Madison,  90  miles ;  fare,  $1  50.  To 
Louisville,  about  150  miles;  fare,  $1  50  to  $2.  From 


ROUTES DISTANCES.  305 

Madison  to  Indianapolis,  by  Railroad,  86  miles;  fare, 
$2  50. 

The  conveyances  carry  passengers  from  New  York  to 
Chicago  and  Milwaukee,  at  prices  varying  from  $14  to 
$20. 

The  two  Railroads  from  .Lake  Erie  to  Chicago  are,  the 
"Michigan  Southern  and  Northern  Indiana  Railroad," 
leaving  Lake  Erie  at  both  Toledo  and  Monroe,  running 
through  southern  Michigan  and  northern  Indiana  to  Chi 
cago,  246  miles ;  and  the  "  Michigan  Central  Railroad," 
leaving  the  Lake  at  Detroit,  and  running  through  central 
Michigan  to  Chicago,  280  miles. 

Over  all  the  principal  thoroughfares  of  the  Western 
States,  FRINK,  WALKER,  &  Co.,  run  daily  lines  of  Stages, 
leading  from  the  chief  towns  and  cities  on  the  Lakes  and 
Rivers.  And  on  the  cross  routes  and  roads,  leading  to 
smaller  towns  and  newer  settlements,  they  run  semi- 
weekly  and  weekly  lines. 


306  WESTERN    PORTRAITURE. 


MR.  THOMPSON'S  LETTERS. 

THE  following  are  extracts  of  letters,  written  in  June 
and  July  last ;  in  copying  from  these  letters  I  have  omit 
ted  what  was  not  of  general  interest : 

"  Before  leaving  CHICAGO,  I  must  say  a  word  of  its  present  as 
pect.  The  changes  wrought  there  within  a  few  years  are  more 
marked  than  in  any  other  place  that  I  have  yet  revisited.  New 
hotels  of  the  largest  class,  and  kept  in  the  best  manner,  new  docks, 
new  pavements,  long  rows  of  stores  substantially  built  and  wear 
ing  a  showy  front,  bear  witness  to  a  rapid  growth  and  an  increas 
ing  business.  Standing  at  the  head  of  Lake  Navigation,  and  con 
nected  by  Canal  with  navigable  waters  to  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  it 
must  rapidly  increase  in  wealth  and  trade ;  and  when  the  pro 
jected  lines  of  Railroads  and  Plankroads  are  completed,  it  must 
become  the  Commercial  center  of  the  Northwest.  The  business 
men  of  the  city  are  mostly  young  and  enterprising  Yankees,  who 
are  determined  here  to  carve  out  a  fortune  for  themselves.  There 
is  also  at  Chicago  some  admixture  of  the  southern  element,  to 
gether  with  a  fair  quota  of  foreign  characteristics ;  but  eastern 
emigration  has  mainly  given  character  to  the  place. 

*'  Churches  and  church  edifices  have  shared  in  the  generous  spirit 
of  improvement.  Six  years  ago  I  found  the  First  Presbyterian 
Church  worshiping  in  a  sort  of  deserted  warehouse  which  had  been 
tinkered  up  in  various  ways  to  answer  that  purpose.  The  Second 
Church,  at  that  time,  occupied  a  small  frame  building  facing  the 
public  square.  Now,  the  First  Church,  under  the  pastoral  care 
of  Rev.  Mr.  CURTIS,  have  erected  a  commodious  and  substantial 
edifice  of  brick  fronting  the  square. 

"  The  Second  Church  have  exchanged  their  wooden  box  for  a 
massive  and  elegant  building  of  stone,  of  Gothic  architecture, 
with  stained  windows  and  a  semi-cathedral  air.  The  material 
of  this  building  was  brought  from  a  quarry  south  of  the  city  on 
the  line  of  the  Canal,  and  affords  an  interesting  study  to  the  geol 
ogist.  Its  aspect  is  peculiar  on  account  of  the  oozing  of  bitumen 
through  the  pores  of  the  stone,  which,  blending  with  the  limestone 


THOMPSON'S  LETTERS.  307 

and  the  silex,  gives  a  variety  of  colors  from  the  lightest  gray  to 
the  deepest  black  ;  it  is  said  to  become  hardened  by  exposure. 
The  building  is  about  120  feet  in  length  by  80  in  breadth,  but 
some  thirty  feet  of  the  length  are  included  in  a  lecture-room,  Sab 
bath-school  rooms,  etc.  The  audience-room  will  accommodate 
about  1,200  persons.  The  entire  cost  of  the  building  and  ground 
was  a  little  more  than  $ 40,000." 

This  rock  is  called  by  the  people  of  that  region,  "  Tar 
Granite,"  and  is  procured  in  large  quantities  near  the  city, 
of  the  finest  quality. 

"  A  Congregational  church  has  recently  been  formed  in  Chicago, 
on  the  west  side  of  the  river,  in  part  by  a  secession  from  the 
Third  Presbyterian  Church,  provoked  by  the  arbitrary  proceed 
ings  of  the  Presbytery  toward  that  church,  while  those  proceed 
ings  in  turn  were  called  forth  by  the  extreme  action  of  the  church 
on  the  subject  of  slavery.  I  regret  that  I  had  no  opportunity  to 
confer  with  the  brethren  immediately  concerned  in  this  movement, 
but  was  obliged  to  get  all  my  information  either  at  second-hand, 
or  from  sources  liable  to  prejudice.  A  strong  movement  for  a 
Congregational  church  upon  the  proper  basis,  while  it  might  be 
resolutely  opposed,  could  not  fail  to  attract  to  itself  some  import 
ant  influences  at  Chicago,  and  to  become  a  center  of  influence  for 
a  wide  region.  There  is  an  element  in  the  place  and  in  the  region 
that  demands  such  an  organization,  and  that  would  develop  itself 
powerfully  under  the  proper  man.  But  the  movement  should  not 
be  controversial  or  sectarian,  and  much  less  should  it  be  simply 
or  mainly  reformatory  in  the  humanitarian  sense.  It  is  to  be 
hoped  that  Congregationalists  will  labor  earnestly  and  practically 
through  the  individual  pulpit,  through  a  free  press,  through  the 
ballot-box  as  citizens  ;  and  above  all,  through  the  power  of  per 
sonal  holiness,  giving  weight  and  force  to  every  effort  at  reform. 
Perhaps  the  movement  at  Chicago,  though  occasioned  by  unpropi- 
tious  circumstances,  may  result  in  a  permanent  organization, 
such  as  I  have  characterized;  a  church  formed  not  upon  some  ab 
stract  proposition  in  morals,  but  upon  the  broad,  free  principles  of 
the  Gospel,  and  animated  more  with  the  kindly  spirit  of  Christ 
than  with  a  zeal  for  specific  reforms.  Its  power  in  such  reforms 
will  depend  not  upon  the  stringency  of  its  resolves,  but  upon  the 
depth  and  earnestness  of  its  piety.  I  hope  it  will  not  be  a  mere 
family  quarrel.  In  saying  these  things  I  speak  not  so  much  with 


308  WESTERN    PORTRAITURE. 

personal  references  as  from  general  principles,  knowing  that  with 
regard  to  this  new  church  I  am  much  in  the  dark. 

"  Chicago,  with  all  its  improvements,  its  activity,  and  its  wealth, 
can  never  vie  with  Cleveland  as  a  place  of  residence.  It  is  situ 
ated  on  a  dead  level,  where  water  does  not  know  which  way  to 
run.  Its  broad  streets  are  almost  wholly  destitute  of  trees.  Its 
soil  is  miry  beyond  endurance,  though  a  system  of  drainage  lately 
introduced  has  rendered  a  three  foot  cellar  a  practicable  thing. 
The  surrounding  country  is  a  vast  prairie,  now  under  good  culti 
vation,  but  too  uniform  to  please  the  eye.  A  few  miles  out  of 
town  is  what  is  called  by  a  figure  of  speech  a  Summit,  where  the 
waters  divide  for  the  lakes  and  the  Mississippi ;  this  way  seeking 
the  Atlantic  by  the  river  St.  Lawrence,  and  that  way  by  the  Gulf 
of  Mexico ;  flowing  like  the  benevolent  impulses  of  the  heart  to 
embrace  a  continent,  and  to  mingle  in  the  warm  gulf  stream  of  an 
ever-circling  beneficence.  Yet  uninviting  as  Chicago  is,  to  the 
tourist,  and  with  few  exceptions  to  the  resident,  it  is  and  will  be 
a  place  of  business,  the  thoroughfare  of  emigration,  the  entrepot 
of  western  commerce.  This  will  make  it  wealthy,  prosperous, 
and  great." 

Mr.  T.  must  have  been  rather  limited  in  his  examina 
tion,  not  to  have  seen  the  large  number  of  streets  with 
their  two  sides  shaded  with  rows  of  fine  trees  on  both 
sides  of  the  river. 

Mr.  Thompson  was  greatly  annoyed  by  the  failure  of 
conveyances  to  perform  their  trips,  as  advertised;  but, 
from  my  own  experience  of  several  years  in  the  West,  I 
can  say  that  punctuality  is  their  general  rule,  and  that 
these  delays  are  only  the  exceptions,  and  are  deserving  of 
the  censure  here  applied ;  especially  on  the  Canal  and  Il 
linois  river  general  promptitude  is  observed :  but  here  is 
Mr.  T.'s  own  narrative : 

"  I  observe  that  Dr.  Bacon  in  his  letter  from  Lyons,  which  I 
have  just  read,  says  that  in  his  calculations  of  distances  he  did 
not  make  '  sufficient  allowance  for  the  uncertainties  of  French 
lines  of  conveyance,'  and  accordingly  was  disappointed  in  his 
plans.  If  Mr.  Pilatte  should  visit  the  West,  he  might  reciprocate 
the  compliment  as  to  the  uncertainties  of  American  lines  of  con- 


THOMPSON'S  LETTERS.  309 

veyance,  for  it  would  puzzle  the  shrewdest  Yankee  to  make  any 
calculations  based  upon  the  advertisements  of  Steamboats  on  these 
Western  waters.  For  a  boat  to  lie  at  her  wharf  hours  after  the 
time  set  for  starting,  and  by  innumerable  stops  to  prolong  her 
trip  a  day  or  two  beyond  the  promised  time,  is  an  event  of  common 
occurrence.  Western  people  take  it  as  a  matter  of  course,  and  it 
is  impossible  to  get  vexed  at  such  a  delay — if  it  were  even  worth 
while  to  get  vexed  at  any  thing — when  every  body  about  you  is  as 
unconcerned  and  phlegmatic  as  if  time  had  not  been  divided  into 
periods  of  six  working  days,  each  of  which  has  its  appropriate 
duties.  Indeed  time  does  not  yet  seem  to  enter  as  an  element  into 
Western  thought.  It  answers  about  as  well  to  do  a  thing  next 
week  as  this  ;  "to  wait  a  day  or  two  for  a  boat,  as  to  meet  it  at  the 
hour  appointed ;  and  so  on  through  all  the  details  of  life. 

"  This  is  a  great  country,  and  it  is  a  great  ways  to  any  where, 
and  there  is  no  use  of  being  in  a  hurry.  The  very  magnitude  of 
the  distances  to  be  overcome,  instead  of  exciting  to  diligence, 
punctuality,  and  speed,  rather  begets  a  loaferish  habit,  which  be 
comes  a  characteristic  of  society.  But  the  increase  of  population, 
the  demands  of  commerce,  and  especially  the  construction  of  rail 
roads,  will  soon  correct  this  habit,  and  restore  the  pendulum  to  its 
proper  place  in  the  affairs  of  men. 

"  I  observe  that  some  of  the  St.  Louis  papers  are  ridiculing  the 
idea  of  a  pendulum  for  rendering  visible  the  rotation  of  the  earth. 
I  cannot  but  think,  however,  that  any  contrivance  that  should  make 
the  earth's  motion  a  palpable  fact  to  the  Western  mind,  would 
have  a  salutary  moral  eifect  upon  the  people  of  '  this  country.' 
The  immensity  of  these  western  prairies,  the  sluggishness  of  many 
western  rivers,  and  the  absence  of  all  tidal  influences,  tend  greatly 
against  any  practical  belief  of  the  Copernican  system.  In  fact 
you  can  see  on  the  same  plain  just  where  the  sun  rises  and  where 
he  sets,  while  the  great  prairie  lies  still  with  its  quiet  bosom  up 
heaved  to  receive  his  beams.  If  any  philosopher  in  mechanism 
could  set  the  prairies  whirling  before  the  astonished  natives,  things 
would  jog  on  here  a  little  faster.  Not  that  I  would  have  life  al 
ways  busy,  always  hurried — I  am  too  thankful  for  a  temporary 
relief  for  that— but  the  habit  of  punctuality  and  regularity  is 
very  desirable  even  in  the  earliest  stages  of  society.  I  find  it  hard 
to  shake  off  my  Eastern  system  for  the  laxity  of  the  West.  But  I 
fear  you  will  think  I  have  already  done  this,  if  I  prolong  this  dis 
sertation  on  time  instead  of  setting  out  upon  my  travels. 

"  The  immediate  occasion  of  these  thoughts  (alas  how  have  such 


310  WESTERN    PORTRAITURE. 

occasions  since  multiplied  !)  was  the  derangement  of  my  whole  plan 
at  Chicago.  Reaching  that  place  at  an  early  hour  on  Friday 
morning,  I  said  to  myself,  '  Less  than  300  miles  to  Jacksonville, 
by  canal,  steamboat,  and  railroad,  we  shall  surely  finish  that  by 
Saturday  night.'  So  off  I  posted  to  the  packet  office  to  take  pas 
sage  for  the  8  o'clock  line  '  through  in  20  hours,'  which  would 
leave  only  160  miles  by  steamboat,  with  a  whole  day  before  us. 
But,  behold,  the  steamboat  does  not  connect  with  the  morning  line 
of  packets,  and  it  is  just  as  well  to  remain  at  Chicago  till  evening. 
So  the  idea  of  reaching  Jacksonville  for  the  Sabbath  is  abandoned. 
However,  by  taking  the  evening  packet  at  5  o'clock,  '  through  in 
20  hours,'  we  shall  reach  La  Salle,  the  head  of  steamboat  naviga 
tion  on  the  Illinois,  by  1  p.  M.,  on  Saturday  ;  then  as  Peoria  is  but 
60  miles  down  the  river,  a  steamboat  going  with  the  current  will 
surely  carry  us  there  by  early  evening,  so  that  we  can  pass  the 
Sabbath  with  dear  old  New  England  friends,  and  in  the  midst  of 
Sabbath-schools  and  churches.  Not  quite  so  fast ;  but  we  will 
take  our  journey  in  regular  order.  At  5  o'clock  we  are  on  board 
the  packet,  but  the  steam-tug  which  is  to  take  us  up  the  Chicago 
river  to  the  first  canal  lock,  has  been  detained,  and  it  is  almost  7 
before  we  are  fairly  under  way ;  but  never  mind,  '  20  hours'  will 
allow  some  margin,  and  we  shall  have  time  enough. 

**  This  Canal,  by-the-way,  as  originally  projected,  was  intended 
to  be  a  ship  canal,  uniting  Lake  Michigan  with  the  Illinois  river, 
and  so  with  the  Mississippi.  It  was  partly  constructed  with  refer 
ence  to  that  idea,  and  had  the  plan  been  carried  out,  the  whole 
lockage  would  have  been  downward  from  Chicago,  carrying  the 
water  of  the  lake  into  the  river,  and  thus  keeping  the  channel  of 
the  Illinois  always  full.  This  would  have  given  immense  facilities 
for  trade,  and  would  have  brought  to  Chicago,  and  via  Chicago  for 
New  York,  much  of  the  produce  of  the  interior,  which  now  goes  down 
the  Mississippi  and  up  the  Ohio,  or  by  way  of  New  Orleans  and  the 
Gulf.  Steamboating  without  transhipment  from  St.  Louis  to  Chicago, 
would  contribute  greatly  to  the  trade  of  both  cities.  But  the  failure 
of  all  the  gigantic  plans  of  Internal  Improvement  in  Illinois,  and 
the  heavy  incumbrance  of  State  debt,  led  to  the  completing  of  this 
as  a  Canal  of  ordinary  width  and  depth,  under  the  management 
of  three  Trustees  who  act  in  behalf  of  the  stockholders  and  of 
the  State.  The  work  is  well  constructed,  and  the  business  is  begin 
ning  to  pay  a  good  interest  on  the  capital  invested. 

"  The  packet  boats  are  regulated  with  a  due  regard  to  neatness 
and  comfort,  and  excepting  the  inconvenience  of  being  suspended, 


311 

by  lot,  for  the  night  somewhere  in  a  double  tier  of  hammocks, 
swung  up  three  deep,  and  the  still  greater  inconvenience  of  having 
no  fit  place  for  the  morning's  ablutions,  a  day  upon  one  of  them 
can  be  very  well  endured.  The  Railroad,  however,  now  fast  pro 
gressing,  will  soon  draw  off  all  mere  business  and  pleasure  travel, 
and  leave  the  canal  to  the  transportation  of  freight  and  emigrants. 
Nothing  so  strikingly  illustrates  the  progress  of  our  country  as 
the  facility  with  which  one  great  internal  improvement  is  set  aside 
for  another  that  offers  better  facilities  for  travel.  The  canal  upon 
which  millions  have  been  expended  gives  place  to  the  railroad  at  a 
cost  of  yet  other  millions ;  the  -  tow-path  makes  way  for  the  iron 
track.  What  comes  next  ?  Let  flying  machines  be  invented,  that 
shall  combine  certainty  and  safety  of  transportation  with  a  greatly 
increased  speed,  and  the  rails  of  many  a  road  will  be  left  to  rust 
in  the  ground. 

"Canal  traveling  gives  good  opportunities  for  the  study  of 
character  and  for  usefulness  to  one's  fellow-passengers.  What 
with  books,  pen  and  paper,  conversation  and  discussions,  the  even 
ing  and  the  subsequent  day  were  whiled  away  very  pleasantly.  I 
was  gratified  with  the  general  regard  for  propriety  and  morality 
which  was  shown  by  travelers  brought  into  such  close  contact. 
There  was  little  swearing  and  little  drinking ;  and  whoever  in 
dulged  in  any  sort  of  intoxicating  beverage,  felt  called  upon  to 
apologize  for  the  act,  by  saying  to  his  neighbors,  that  the  water  of 
the  country  did  not  agree  with  him,  and  that  he  took  ale  or  brandy 
as  a  preventive  of  cholera.  How  essentially  have  the  habits  of 
society  in  this  particular  been  changed  by  the  temperance  reform 
ation  !  A  stranger  drinking  liquors  at  a  public  table  is  apt  to  find 
himself  alone,  and  to  feel  obliged  to  plead  some  special  excuse. 
Much,  however,  remains  to  be  done." 

Here  Mr.  T.  narrates  a  series  of  conversations,  usual  on 
a  long  tour  in  a  boat's  cabin,  upon  various  topics,  as  Re 
forms,  Religion,  and  Politics. 

"  A  long  digression  this !  yes ;  and  a  long  jaunt  we  have  had, 
twenty-three  hours,  but  here  we  are  at  La  Salle. 

"  It  was  now  about  five  p.  M.,  and  as  the  probability  was  that 
the  steamboat  would  not  reach  Peoria,  some  sixty  miles  distant, 
till  the  dawn  of  the  Sabbath,  we  went  on  shore  and  rested  the 
seventh  day  according  to  the  commandment.  It  was  curious  to  no 
tice  how  our  decision  to  remain  affected  the  minds  of  our  passen- 


312  WESTERN    PORTRAITURE. 

gers.  Some,  I  think,  were  influenced  by  it  to  do  the  same ;  and 
others,  to  whom  it  seemed  a  novelty,  evidently  respected  our  feel 
ings  and  course  in  the  matter.  It  led  to  some  interesting  conver 
sation  about  the  Sabbath,  and  I  aimed  to  give  the  impression  that 
Christians  do  not  keep  the  day  from  constraint,  from  mere  scruples 
of  conscience,  or  in  a  legal  spirit,  but  from  a  hearty  interest  in  the 
great  object  of  the  institution,  and  for  the  benefit  it  brings  to 
themselves  and  others.  I  am  thus  particular  on  this  point,  because 
I  see  that  Sabbath-breaking  is  the  almost  universal  habit  of  trav 
elers  ;  and  at  the  West  the  temptations  to  this  are  very  strong. 
This  I  felt.  I  might  have  made  a  plausible  argument  for  trespass 
ing  a  little  upon  holy  time.  La  Salle  was  represented  to  us  as  a 
cheerless  place,  without  a  church  and  without  society.  My  in 
valid  companion  needed  the  comforts  of  a  good  home,  such  as 
would  be  found  with  friends  at  Peoria,  and  we  should  reach  that 
place  perhaps  by  day-break.  By  staying  at  La  Salle  we  might  be 
detained  two  days.  But  I  would  not  feel  justified  in  leaving  Al 
bany  or  Stonington  on  Saturday  evening  to  reach  New  York  at 
day-break  on  the  Sabbath ;  and  what  is  not  right  at  the  East  is  not 
right  at  the  West.  To  be  sure,  to  keep  the  Sabbath  when  traveling 
at  the  West  costs  money,  and  time,  and  comfort,  and  requires  that 
one  should  be  singular.  But  have  we  not  learned  to  obey  God  im 
plicitly,  and  to  the  full,  and  leave  the  results  with  Him  ?  If  we 
have  not  learned  this,  we  know  nothing  of  the  obedience  of  His 
children. 

"  Now  came  a  series  of  agreeable  disappointments.  First,  we 
found  at  La  Salle  an  excellent  hotel.  The  cordial  welcome  given 
us  by  the  host  and  ladies  of  the  house,  made  us  feel  quite  at  home. 
As  soon  as  my  calling  was  surmised,  a  claim  was  put  in  for  preach 
ing  on  the  Sabbath.  I  sallied  forth  into  the  town  to  see  what  ar 
rangements  could  be  made  for  hearing  or  preaching  the  Gospel. 
And  here  occurred  my  next  surprise.  I  found  I  was  not  in  a 
heathen  country,  as  it  had  been  represented.  To  be  sure,  I  saw 
evidence  enough  of  the  presence  of  evil ;  for  in  a  walk  of  ten 
minutes  I  counted  as  many  groggeries,  a  billiard  saloon,  and  other 
appurtenances  of  vice.  But  on  inquiring  at  one  or  two  stores,  I 
ascertained  that  there  were  Christians  in  the  place ;  that  a  house 
of  worship  was  then  erecting  for  a  Congregational  Church  about 
to  be  organized,  and  that  a  Baptist  brother  was  transiently  preach 
ing  to  the  people. 

"  A  greater  surprise,  however,  awaited  me  on  returning  to  sup 
per  ;  for  who  should  seat  themselves  at  the  table,  by  my  side,  but 


313 

Rev.  Dr.  Blagden,  of  Boston,  President  Wheeler,  of  Burlington, 
Vt.,  a  brother  to  Dr.  B.,  and  a  worthy  Presbyterian  elder  from 
Mississippi,  all  on  their  way  from  St.  Louis  to  Chicago.  This  gave 
fine  promise  for  Christian  society  and  the  means  of  grace.  It  was 
presently  ascertained  that  Rev.  Dr.  Hough,  formerly  Professor  at 
Middlebury  College,  resided  in  the  place  with  a  son  who  is  Canal 
Collector,  and  through  him  arrangements  were  made  for  the  mor 
row's  services. 

"For  the  accommodation  of  the  Irish  population,  there  is  a 
Catholic  church  at  this  point,  and  a  Cathedral  of  considerable  di 
mensions  is  nearly  completed,  on  one  of  the  best  sites  in  the  town. 
This  building  will  answer  the  uses  of  both  La  Salle  and  Peru,  two 
miles  below,  and  as  a  number  of  laborers  will  soon  be  employed 
here  on  the  line  of  the  Central  Bailroad,  it  is  likely  to  be  well  filled 
for  a  time.  But  I  doubt  whether  so  large  a  permanent  investment 
at  a  point  where  the  Irish  population  must  be  somewhat  transient, 
is  good  policy  for  the  Catholics. 

' '  Our  Sabbath  at  La  Salle  proved  to  be  a  most  pleasant  one. 
In  the  morning  we  assembled  for  social  worship  in  a  parlor  of  the 
hotel ;  thence  we  went  to  the  house  of  God  in  company ;  there  Dr. 
Wheeler  preached  in  the  morning,  Dr.  Blagden  in  the  afternoon, 
and  your  Correspondent  in  the  evening ;  and  the  day  was  closed 
with  social  worship  at  the  hotel. 

"  '  An'  is  it  engineers  yees  are  ?'  said  Patrick,  as  we  walked  out 
to  survey  the  line  of  the  railroad  near  La  Salle ;  '  sure  its  ourselves 
would  like  the  work  ;  wees  very  poor  here.'  '  No,  Patrick,  we're 
not  engineers,  but  we  hope  you'll  get  the  work  and  have  the  road 
done  before  we  come  this  way  again.'  '  I  thought  the  gintlemen 
looked  like  engineers.'  "  T. 


"  In  leaving  La  Salle,  I  must  not  omit  to  mention  a  terrific  storm 
of  wind,  accompanied  with  thunder,  lightning,  and  rain,  which 
passed  over  us  there  on  Saturday  evening.  Never  before  did  I 
realize  the  wild  grandeur  of  the  elements  when  let  loose  for  their 
Titan  sports,  The  wide  reach  of  prairie  around  us  gave  to  the 
wind  a  sweep  and  a  power  that  the  steadfast  piles  of  brick  in  the 
great  city  entirely  forbid.  It  seemed  to  gather  force  from  its  free 
dom,  and  to  accumulate  strength  in  proportion  to  the  area  that  it 
traversed.  The  house  shook  to  its  foundations,  and  to  our  inexpe 
rienced  ears  each  new  blast,  as  it  came  howling  over  the  prairie- 
sea,  forboded  its  overthrow.  And  then  the  thunder  !  I  have  heard 
the  thunder  roll  along  the  narrow  gorges  of  the  mountains,  rever- 
27 


314  WESTERN     PORTRAITURE. 

berating  with  a  thousand  echoes  as  it  shook  the  everlasting  hills ; 
I  have  stood  on  the  bare  and  ragged  summit  of  Mount  Washington, 
as  the  flaming  bolts  dashed  against  the  rocks  at  my  feet,  while  the 
monarch  of  the  hills  was  wrapped  in  clouds  that  poured  upon  his 
head  hailstones  and  coals  of  fire ;  but  never  did  my  soul  quiver 
with  awe  as  on  that  night  when  earth  and  sky  were  commingled  in 
one  sheet  of  flame,  and  the  thunder  leaped  through  the  vast  un 
broken  expanse  of  ether.  No  echo  was  there,  no  artificial  multi 
plier  of  sound,  but  sound  itself,  as  if  the  hemisphere  were  a 
mighty  bell  of  harshest  metal,  within  whose  circumference  we 
were  inclosed,  while  ponderous  bolts  were  hurled  against  it  till 
the  din  and  roar  of  ten  thousand  gongs  clanging  louder  and 
hoarser  was  concentrated  upon  our  ears.  '  Then  the  earth  shook 
and  trembled,'  for  Jehovah  '  bowed  the  heavens  and  came  down.' 

"The  poet  has  described  the  effect  of  a  night- storm  among  the 
mountains  of  Switzerland : 

"  '  The  sky  is  changed  !  and  such  a  change  !     O  Night, 
And  Storm,  and  Durkness,  ye  are  wondrous  strong, 

Yet  lovely  in  your  strength,  as  is  the  light 
Of  a  dark  eye  in  woman  !    ^ar  along,     , 
From  peak  to  peak,  the  rattling  crags  among, 

Leaps  the  live  thunder !  not  from  one  lone  cloud, 
But  every  mountain  now  hath  found  a  tongue ; 

And  Jura  answers,  through  her  misty  shroud, 

Back  to  the  joyous  Alps,  who  call  to  her  aloud ! 

"  '  And  this  is  in  the  night — most  glorious  night ! 

Thou  wast  not  sent  for  slumber  [  let  me  be 
A  sharer  in  thy  fierce  and  far  delight — 

A  portion  of  the  tempest  and  of  thee  ! 

How  the  lit  lake  shines — a  phosphoric  sea — 
And  the  big  rain  comes  dancing  to  the  earth  ! 

And  now  again  'tis  black — and  now,  the  glee 
Of  the  loud  hills  shakes  with  its  mountain  mirth 
As  if  they  did  rejoice  o'er  a  young  earthquake's  birth. 

*'  This  description  was  more  than  realized  in  that  the  majestic 
tread  of  the  thunder  across  the  plain,  far  surpassed  its  quick 
leaping  among  the  mountains.  No  hill,  no  forest,  no  city  broke 
its  sound,  but  it  poured  down  from  heaven  to  earth,  and  resounded 
from  earth  to  heaven,  till  it  swelled  into  a  continuous  roar,  aug 
mented  by  successive  peals  that  seemed  never  to  die  away. 
Now,  far  as  the  eye  could  reach  the  prairie  shone  like  a '  phosphoric 
sea;'  again  it  lay  enwrapped  in  an  impenetrable  gloom.  Our 
thoughts  were  not  the  transcendental  sentimentalism  of  the  poet ; 


THOMPSON'S  LETTERS.  315 

our  wishes  were  not  for  a  soul-absorption  into  Nature,  but  we 
thought  of  Him  who,  amid  these  terrific  displays  of  .His  power, 
guards  the  sparrow  nestling  with  its  young,  and  numbers  the  hairs 
of  our  heads.  The  Lord  was  nigh  in  His  awful  majesty,  yet  were 
we  not  afraid  !  Though  the  wind  blew  and  the  floods  came,  the 
house  that  shook  above  our  heads  fell  not,  for  it  was  founded  upon 
a  rock.  Be  thou  my  soul  established  on  the  Rock  of  Ages,  when 
the  floods  of  divine  wrath  shall  be  poured  out  upon  the  ungodly, 
and — 

" « Thunder  and  darkness,  fire  and  storm, 
Lead  on  the  dreadful  DAY.'  " 

The  River  Floods,  an  event  of  great  sublimity,  and 
characteristic  of  the  West,  occurring  annually,  are  here 
forcibly  described.  Memorable  and  destructive  floods  oc 
curred  on  the  Mississippi  and  Illinois  rivers,  in  1832  and 
1846: 

**  Observing  some  warehouses  surrounded  with  water,  from 
which  boats  were  taking  in  their  freight,  we  concluded  that  the 
owners  had  hit  upon  this  expedient  for  the  convenience  of  those 
engaged  in  transportation ;  but  we  were  presently  informed  that 
in  ordinary  stages  of  the  water  these  warehouses  stood  high  and 
dry  upon  the  levee,  and  that  what  seemed  to  be  the  bed  of  a  wide, 
flowing  river,  was  usually  a  t  bottom' — the  name  given  to  a  low 
tract  of  land,  meadow  or  timbered,  on  the  margin  of  a  river,  and 
intervening  between  its  channel  and  the  bluffs  or  high  grounds  de 
noting  its  ancient  bed.  Some  of  these  warehouses  were  surrounded 
with  water  to  the  depth  of  ten  or  twelve  feet.  Indeed  I  was  as 
sured  that  at  one  time  the  water  rose  fourteen  feet  in  twenty-four 
hours,  and  some  3,000  sacks  of  grain,  stored  in  a  new  warehouse 
built  quite  above  the  old  high-water  mark,  were  destroyed  in  a 
single  night. 

"  As  we  proceeded  down  the  river  we  saw  on  every  hand  the 
desolations  of  the  flood.  In  nearly  every  river-town  the  street 
fronting  the  river  was  overflowed,  and  stores  and  dwellings  were 
submerged  to  the  depth  of  ten  or  twenty  feet.  In  some  places 
large  and  cultivated  farms  were  entirely  under  water ;  the  stock, 
crops,  fences,  every  thing  destroyed.  The  loss  falls  most  severely 
on  the  poor  woodmen,  who  occupy  log-cabins  on  the  river  bot 
toms,  and  earn  their  living  by  supplying  the  boats  with  wood ;  the 
whole  winter's  work  of  many  has  been  swept  away  in  an  hour, 


316  WESTERN    PORTRAITURE. 

•while  they  and  their  families  have  been  obliged  to  leave  their  huts 
and  flee  for  refuge  to  the  bluffs  at  a  distance  often  of  several  miles. 
At  some  points  the  river  is  expanded  from  an  average  width  of 
half  a  mile  to  the  breadth  of  eight  or  ten  miles  from  bluff  to  bluff. 
We  saw  several  cabins  and  houses  of  which  the  roofs  only  were 
above  the  water.  But  I  have  since  seen  so  much  greater  desola 
tions  on  the  Mississippi,  that  these  seem  almost  of  no  account. 

"  A  western  steamboat  is  at  first  sight  a  novelty  to  one  familiar 
only  with  eastern  models.  The  boats  on  the  western  waters  are 
very  slightly  built — mere  shells  of  pine,  shallow,  long,  narrow, 
flat-bottomed,  open  and  flaring  on  all  sides,  just  as  represented  in 
Banvard's  panorama.  There  is  no  cabin  either  below  the  deck  or 
upon  it." 

Most  of  the  boats  have  good  cabins  and  well-furnished 
saloons,  both  for  ladies  and  gentlemen,  beside  state-rooms. 

"  The  engines  are  placed  immediately  on  the  lower  deck,  two 
huge  furnaces  flaming  upon  you  as  you  enter  the  boat,  and  giving 
you  rather  uncomfortable  hints  of  a  choice  between  fire  and  water 
in  making  your  exit  from  the  world. 

"  Huge  flaming  brands  and  coals  are  dropping  continually  upon 
the  thinnest  possible  sheathing  of  sheet-iron,  in  many  places  worn 
through  to  the  plank ;  heated  pipes  on  which  you  cannot  bear  your 
hand  are  in  immediate  contact  with  boards  as  dry  as  tinder,  and  per 
haps  already  charred  ;  goods,  you  know  not  how  inflammable,  are 
strown  promiscuously  around  the  boilers,  while  huge  piles  of  dry 
pine  wood,  waiting  to  be  consumed,  are  crowded  in  the  vicinity  of 
the  fires.  But  not  every  traveler  has  the  habit  that  I  confess  to 
of  prying  into  every  thing  about  him,  and  therefore  few  probably 
enjoy  the  peculiar  sensation  of  sailing  on  the  rim  of  a  volcano. 
However,  there  is  nothing  like  getting  used  to  it,  and  I  learned  to 
sleep  quite  soundly. 

"  The  cabin  is  up  stairs,  and  extends  nearly  the  whole  length  of 
the  deck,  over  which  it  is  perched  upon  sundry  posts  that  seem  too 
frail  for  a  summer's  breeze ;  this  is  divided  into  a  long,  narrow  sa 
loon,  from  stem  to  stern,  and  a  row  of  state-rooms  on  either  hand. 
An  apartment  for  ladies  is  curtained  off  at  one  extremity,  while 
the  main  saloon  is  used  for  meals,  conversation,  promenading,  card- 
playing,  and  whatsoever  one  may  list.  The  kitchen,  pantry,  bar, 
etc. ,  are  all  contiguous  to  the  saloon ;  with  every  convenience  for 
'life  above  stairs,'  so  that  passengers  may  spend  days  in  and 


317 

around  this  saloon  without  knowing  any  thing  of  the  deck  life  be 
low.  Some  of  the  state-rooms  that  open  both  into  the  saloon  and 
upon  the  guard  are  very  airy  and  pleasant.  If,  however,  there  is 
any  deficiency  in  regard  to  neatness  and  comfort,  it  is  in  this  de 
partment  of  the  boat.  We  took  passage  in  the  Prairie  State,  one 
of  the  best  boats  on  the  river.  The  furniture  was  neat,  and  the 
table  excellent — always  excepting  the  preponderance  of  grease  in 
western  cookery.  But  the  ideas  of  civilization  exhibited  in  the 
state-rooms  reminded  me  of  Dr.  BushnelPs  discourse  on  Barbarism 
as  the  first  danger  of  the  West,  a  sermon  that  contained  some  of  the 
truest  of  his  paradoxes.  In  a  cozy  chat  with  the  captain,  I  found 
him  a  clever,  polite,  and  attentive  gentleman. 

"  The  scenery  of  the  Illinois  river  is  rather  low  and  monotonous, 
but  sufficiently  picturesque  to  arrest  the  eye  of  a  stranger.  It  sa 
vored  of  the  romantic  to  sail  at  times  through  the  woods — the  water 
spreading  indefinitely  among  the  trees — and  in  the  middle  of  the 
stream  to  bring  up  at  the  second  story  of  a  house  that  seemed  to 
say,  '  For  freight  or  passage  apply  within.' 

"  Peoria  is  the  most  beautiful  town  on  the  river.  Situated  on 
rising  ground,  a  broad  plateau  extending  back  from  the  bluif,  it 
has  escaped  the  almost  universal  inundation.  Indeed,  the  river 
here  expands  into  a  broad,  deep  lake,  that  embosoms  the  rising 
flood.  This  lake  is  a  most  beautiful  feature  in  the  natural  scenery 
of  the  town,  and  is  as  useful  as  it  is  beautiful,  supplying  the  in 
habitants  with  ample  stores  of  fish,  and  in  winter  with  an  abun 
dance  of  the  purest  ice.  It  is  often  frozen  to  such  a  thickness  that 
heavy  teams  and  droves  of  cattle  can  pass  securely  over  it.  A  sub 
stantial  drawbridge  connects  the  town  with  the  opposite  shore. 
The  town  is  neatly  laid  out  in  rectangular  blocks,  the  streets  being 
wide  and  well  graded.  A  public  square  has  been  reserved  near 
the  present  center.  The  place  wears  quite  a  New  England  aspect ; 
its  schools  and  churches  are  prosperous,  and  its  society  is  good. 
Back  of  the  town  extends  one  of  the  finest  rolling  prairies  in  the 
State ;  this  region  already  furnishes  to  Peoria  its  supplies  and 
much  of  its  business,  which  is  destined  to  increase  as  plankroads 
and  like  improvements  shall  bring  the  producer  nearer  to  the  market 
I  am  struck  with  the  sagacity  shown  in  selecting  the  sites  of  many 
of  these  Western  towns,  of  which  La  Salle  and  Peoria  are  exam 
ples.  May  '  the  children  of  light'  be  equally  sagacious  in  choosing 
their  points  of  action  and  influence  for  Christ ! 

"  Traveling  on  these  western  waters  throws  one  into  all  sorts  of 
society,  and  affords  a  fine  opportunity  for  the  study  of  human  na- 


318  WESTERN    PORTRAITURE. 

ture.  I  found  a  number  of  emigrants,  Irish  and  German,  on  the 
deck,  occupying  sundry  extempore  bunks,  and  living  on  their  own 
bread  and  cheese. 

"  These  emigrants  have  a  hard  life  of  it.  Poor  fare  and  exposure 
to  the  elements,  on  the  open  deck  of  the  boat,  often  engender  dis 
ease  among  them,  and  break  up  families  before  they  reach  their 
destined  home.  There  should  be  an  active  missionary  agency  on  all 
the  rivers  of  the  West.  The  deck-hands  need  such  an  influence, 
for  they  have  no  Sabbath,  and  are  fearfully  addicted  to  profane- 
ness  and  intemperance.  Their  manner  of  life  begets  a  recklessness 
of  death  and  of  all  solemn  and  sacred  things.  f  A  man  overboard,' 
no  unusual  event  on  boats  nowhere  guarded  by  a  rail,  or  a  death 
by  cholera,  now  becoming  frequent,  make  these  men  callous  rather 
than  thoughtful,  and  render  life  and  death  alike  cheap  in  their  es 
timate. 

"  The  freedom  of  the  western  character,  and  the  independence 
of  the  western  mind,  united  with  the  native  love  of  argumentation 
in  the  Anglo-American  race,  render  it  easy  to  engage  men  in  dis 
cussion,  to  while  away  the  listless  hours  of  steamboat  traveling." 

Here  a  long  theological  discussion  was  had  among  the 
passengers,  to  while  the  time  pleasantly  and  excitingly 
away. 

"From  Naples  to  Jacksonville  the  ride  is  by  railroad,  about 
twenty-five  miles  over  a  rolling  prairie,  the  name  given  to  those 
vast  tracts  of  land,  level  or  undulating,  which  in  their  natural 
state  are  entirely  destitute  of  trees,  and  crowned  with  a  rich  growth 
of  grass.  Jacksonville  is  located  in  the  heart  of  such  a  region,  with 
no  streams  or  timber,  except  here  and  there  a  grove,  with  no  rocks 
or  stones,  and  hardly  an  approximation  to  a  hill.  It  looks  not  like 
an  oasis  in  the  desert,  but  like  a  finely  cut  medallion  set  upon  a 
bosom  of  the  richest  satin.  As  I  drew  near,  I  availed  myself  of  the 
kind  offices  of  a  genteel  colored  man,  who  pointed  out  the  various 
public  buildings.  When  he  showed  me  the  College,  he  assured  me 
that  the  President  was  '  a  very  intelligent  gentleman,'  an  opinion 
which  I  have  had  ample  means  of  confirming.  It  is  well  for  a  col 
lege  when  its  President  is  not  only  respected  in  the  world  of  sci 
ence  and  of  letters,  but,  like  the  illustrious  Dwight,  is  known  and 
esteemed  and  loved  by  all  classes  in  the  community  in  which  he 
lives. 


THOMPSON'S  LETTERS.  319 

"  The  first  view  of  the  prairies  reminds  one  of  the  truthful  and 
eloquent  description  of  our  own  BRYANT  : 

"  '  Lo  !  they  stretch 
In  airy  undulations,  far  away, 
As  if  the  Ocean,  in  his  gentler  swell, 
Stood  still,  with  all  his  rounded  billows  fixed, 
And  motionless  forever.     Motionless  ? 
No — they  are  all  unchained  again.     The  clouds 
Sweep  over  with  their  shadows,  and,  beneath, 
The  surface  rolls  and  fluctuates  to  the  eye  ; 
Dark  hollows  seem  to  glide  along  and  chase 
The  sunny  ridges.         *        *         *         * 
Man  hath  no  part  in  all  this  glorious  work  ; 
The  hand  that  built  the  firmament  hath  heaved 
And  smoothed  these  verdant  swells,  and  sown  their  slopes 
With  herbage,  planted  them  with  island  groves, 
And  hedged  them  round  with  forests.     Fitting  floor 
For  this  magnificent  temple  of  the  sky — 
With  flowers  whose  glory  and  whose  multitude 
Rival  the  constellations  !     The  great  heavens 
Seem  to  stoop  down  upon  the  scene  in  love — 
A  nearer  vault,  and  of  a  tenderer  blue, 
Than  that  which  bends  above  the  eastern  hills.' 

"  The  descent  from  the  poetic  to  the  practical  would  be  far  too 
tame ;  so  I  will  close. 

"  Dear  me !  how  long  it  takes  this  letter-writer  to  come  at  any 
thing.  He  has  been  five  or  six  weeks,  already,  in  getting  to  our 
town. 

"  Have  patience,  reader,  and  always  remember  that  this  is  a 
great  country,  and  letter-writing,  at  least  to  him  who  perpetrates 
it,  a  great  bore.  T." 


"  The  Earl  of  Carlisle,  [formerly  Lord  MORPETH,]  in  his  *  Trav 
els  in  America,'  speaks  of  the  place  whose  name  is  the  subject 
of  this  communication  in  the  following  terms  :  '  At  Jacksonville,  in 
Illinois,  I  was  told  a  large  colony  of  Yorkshiremen  were  settled, 
and  I  was  the  more  easily  induced  to  believe  it,  as  it  seemed  to  me 
about  the  most  thriving  and  best  cultivated  neighborhood  I  had 
seen.'  I  know  nothing  of  the  nationality  of  the  first  actual  settlers 
of  Jacksonville  ;  but  the  tradition  of  the  place  is,  that  the  township 
was  entered  and  named  by  a  company  of  reckless  adventurers, 
who,  having  halted  at  this  locality,  on  an  exploring  tour,  held  here 
a  drunken  revel,  and  under  this  excitement  agreed  to  enter  the 
lands  around  them  and  to  found  a  city,  which,  in  honor  of  the  then 


320  WESTERN    PORTRAITURE. 

President,  they  named  Jacksonville,  solemnizing  the  christening  by 
breaking  and  pouring  out  a  bottle  of  spirits.  For  awhile  the  place 
partook  of  the  character  of  its  founders  ;  but  being  an  inland  settle 
ment,  it  did  not  afford  the  same  facilities  for  the  growth  of  wicked 
ness  as  do  the  river  towns. 

"  Of  this  early  character  of  the  place  no  trace  remains  at  present 
but  its  name  and  "this  tradition.  Lord  Morpeth  would  hardly 
claim  for  his  countrymen  such  an  agency  in  founding  a  community 
as  has  now  been  described ;  but,  considering  the  beauties  of  the 
place,  it  was  a  handsome  compliment,  while  lecturing  before  a 
Yorkshire  Lyceum,  to  attribute  the  thrift  and  comeliness  of  Jack 
sonville  to  a  colony  of  Yorkshiremen.  If  the  appearance  of  the 
town  ten  years  ago  warranted  such  an  encomium  from  an  intelli 
gent  stranger,  I  shall  not  be  thought  extravagant  in  pronouncing 
it  the  Paradise  of  the  West,  where,  amid  the  luxuriant  growth  of 
the  fruits  of  the  earth  flourish  with  a  scarce  less  vigorous  growth 
all  good  social,  educational,  and  religious  institutions. 

"  But  the  praise  of  its  present  prosperity  is  due  not  to  the  farm 
ing  skill  of  Yorkshiremen,  or  the  mere  agricultural  thrift  of  any 
class  of  settlers,  but  mainly  to  the  influence  of  a  colony  of  young 
men  who  went  there  years  ago  not  for  farms  or  merchandize,  but 
for  the  cause  of  education  and  religion.  This  has  made  the  place  a 
center  of  knowledge,  of  piety,  and  of  benevolence,  for  a  region  des 
tined  to  be  as  populous  as  it  is  fertile  and  inviting.  Upon  this  very 
field  there  have  been  conflicts  and  sacrifices  for  Christ  and  his  Gos 
pel  kindred  to  those  of  the  foreign  missionary  work,  and  that  not 
in  a  remote  period,  but  within  the  memory  and  in  the  persons  of 
some  who  are  now  among  the  active  men  of  the  community.  But 
the  day  of  sacrifice  is  over — that  of  reward  has  already  come ;  the 
conflict  is  ended  and  the  triumph  secure. 

"  The  men  who  planted  the  institutions  of  Jacksonville  had  been 
thoroughly  trained  in  schools  of  academic  and  theological  learning 
at  the  East,  and  put  themselves  thoroughly  under  the  school  of 
Christ  amid  the  privations  and  toils  of  a  new  society  at  the  West. 
The  result  shows  the  wisdom  of  looking  very  early  in  the  history 
of  a  community,  toward  permanent  institutions  that  shall  mould  that 
community  and  give  it  its  life  and  power  for  generations.  I  re 
joice  in  the  work  of  tract  and  book  distribution  now  so  thoroughly 
organized  over  our  country ;  I  wish  it  were  even  ten  times  more 
active  and  efficient;  I  see  its  necessity,  its  adaptation,  and  its  gen 
eral  usefulness.  But  I  bless  God  that  the  energies  of  His  people 
are  not  wholly  absorbed  in  efforts  for  to-day  ;  that  some,  as  wise 


321 

master  builders,  are  engaged  in  laying  foundations  for  generations 
to  come  ;  nay,  foundations  that  ere  this  generation  shall  pass  away 
— such  is  the  growth  of  society  at  the  West — shall  sustain  stable  and 
beautiful  superstructures,  built  for  Time. — But  I  anticipate. 

"At  first  sight  of  Jacksonville,  you  wonder  how  the  spot  ever 
came  to  be  chosen  for  the  location  of  a  town.  It  looks  like  a  vil 
lage  made  to  order  at  the  East,  with  neat  houses — some  wood,  some 
brick — some  cottage-shaped,  and  others  more  ambitious,  with  gar 
dens  filled  with  flowers  and  shrubbery,  with  wide  and  cleanly 
streets  adorned  with  shade  trees,  with  a  pleasant  public  square 
inclosed  with  a  plain  white  fence,  and  graced  (except  that  the  rickety 
building  has  no  grace  about  it)  with  the  court-house  and  public 
offices,  with  schools  and  academies,  with  churches,  and  a  college, 
all  clustering  about  the  village  center,  while  well-tilled  farms 
stretch  along  the  borders  on  every  side — it  looks,  I  say,  like  a 
model  New  England  village  made  to  order,  with  such  improvements 
as  old  villages  that  have  grown  up  gradually  do  not  admit  of,  and 
transported  hither  by  some  magic  machinery  and  set  down  in  the 
midst  of  the  prairie,  for  picturesque  effect,  or  as  a  wholesale  spec 
ulation  in  city  lots. 

"  Now  that  the  village  is  there,  you  see  that  it  is  pretty,  and 
seemly,  and  convenient ;  that  there  was  need  of  it,  and  that  it  is 
likely  to  prosper,  in  a  moderate  way,  as  a  place  of  business  ;  and 
when  you  have  heard  the  forementioned  tradition,  you  understand 
how  there  happens  to  be  a  village  in  this  precise  meridian  at  all ; 
but  when  you  inquire  farther  for  the  propriety  of  the  location,  you 
see  no  river,  no  hills,  no  forests,  no  streams,  nothing  in  short  that 
should  have  led  to  the  selection  of  this  particular  section  of  the 
vast  prairie  as  the  site  of  a  town,  rather  than  any  other  within 
twenty  miles  of  it.  A  more  careful  study,  however,  of  the  fea 
tures  of  the  country  shows  that  it  was  a  lucky  accident  that  hit 
upon  this  location ;  for  while  there  is  nothing  in  or  about  Jack 
sonville  that  can  aspire  to  the  name  of  a  hill,  the  adjacent  country 
is  rolling  and  exhibits  sundry  mounds,  not  Indian,  but  natural, 
that  swell  in  some  instances  to  the  hight  of  forty  or  fifty  feet ! 
While  there  are  no  forests,  there  are  sundry  beautiful  groves,  that 
vary  the  scenery  and  also  furnish  a  partial  supply  of  lumber;  and, 
in  the  absence  of  a  mill-stream,  the  low,  sluggish,  muddy,  ever 
devious  Movestar,  winds  itself  all  about  the  town.  This  name,  by 
the  way,  is  a  corruption  of  the  French  J\fauvaise  Terre  (bad  coun 
try),  which  for  some  unknown  reason  was  given  to  the  creek  by 
French  explorers  at  its  mouth,  where  it  empties  into  the  Illinois. 


322  WESTERN    PORTRAITURE. 

"  But  never  was  there  a  more  decided  misnomer.  Bad  land, 
forsooth !  Let  the  New  England  farmer  who  has  spent  half  his 
life  in  gathering  the  stones  and  grubbing  the  stumps  out  of  a  five 
acre  lot,  and  the  other  half  in  trying  to  make  lean,  jaundiced  corn 
grow  in  the  two  inches  of  soil,  come  out  and  look  upon  these  corn 
fields  of  hundreds  of  acres,  where  the  rich  black  loam  is  turned  up 
by  the  plow  to  the  depth  of  two  feet,  where  is  never  seen  a  stick  or 
a  stone,  where  the  hoe  is  never  used,  but  weeds  are  plowed  up  by 
driving  the  team  between  the  rows,  and  where,  as  the  season  ad 
vances,  one  may  ride  on  horseback  through  acres  of  corn  without 
once  seeing  over  the  tops  of  the  -gigantic  stalks,  and  where  in  har 
vest  time  the  wondrous  cutting-machine,  drawn  by  horses,  like  the 
old  scythe-armed  chariot  of  Roman  warfare,  as  it  forces  its  mighty 
swath  through  the  toppling  grain,  mocks  at  the  puny  efforts  of  the 
sickle,  and  the  hot  and  weary  day's  work  of  a  man. 

"  To  one  who  has  not  looked  upon  these  immense  fields,  waving 
for  the  harvest,  it  is  impossible  to  convey  any  adequate  idea  of  the 
richness  of  the  cereal  products  of  this  region.  Here  may  be 
realized  the  statement  of  the  vast  wealth  of  Job  in  lands,  and  corn, 
and  stock.  In  the  immediate  vicinity  of  Jacksonville  is  one  farm 
containing  seven  thousand  acres,  under  cultivation,  with  thou 
sands  of  sheep  and  oxen,  and  ten  thousands  of  ephahs  of  corn. 
The  proprietor  finds  it  no  easy  matter  to  ride  over  his  vast  domain, 
and  to  superintend  the  management  of  its  every  part. 

"A  prairie  farm  is  always  conducted  on  a  magnificent  scale. 
The  fences,  if  there  are  any,  do  not  cut  it  up  in  little  acre  patches, 
but  divide  it  into  stately  squares  ranging  from  forty-acre  lots  to 
half  a  '  section.'  This  I  found  to  the  sorrow  of  my  aching  feet 
upon  going  one  day  to  see  some  buffaloes  kept  for  improving  stock. 
I  was  told  that  I  would  find  them  'just  down  at  the  lower  end  of 
the  field,'  in  reaching  which  I  had  to  walk  full  half  a  mile  or  more. 
The  sight  of  such  a  farm  on  a  rolling  prairie,  partly  in  grass, 
partly  in  corn,  partly  in  grain  and  garden  vegetables,  as  the  sun 
chases  over  it  the  cloudy  shadows,  and  the  light  breeze  waves  the 
distant  grove,  to  a  lover  of  the  beautiful  is  perfectly  enchanting. 

"  But  it  is  not  in  cereals  alone  that  these  prairies  are  produc 
tive.  Fruits  come  to  great  perfection  in  this  soil  and  climate. 
Peaches  are  very  abundant,  and  the  choicest  varieties  of  apples 
may  be  introduced  by  grafting.  It  is  so  easy,  however,  to  raise 
the  one  great  staple,  corn,  that  orchards  have  been  comparatively 
neglected ;  indeed  they  have  hardly  had  time  to  come  to  perfec 
tion.  I  had  no  thought  of  detracting  from  the  merits  of  '  this 


THOMPSON'S    LETTERS.  323 

country' — to  use  the  current  western  phrase — when  I  spoke  dubi 
ously  of  my  prospects  for  the  strawberry  season,  in  taking  leave 
of  the  Erie  Railroad.  But  on  the  very  morning  of  my  arrival  I 
was  regaled  with  finely  flavored  strawberries  swimming  in  lucious 
cream ;  and  I  found  this  delicious  fruit  to  be  everywhere  a  common 
article  of  the  table.  It  is  a  gross  idea  of  some  Eastern  people 
that  the  inhabitants  of  the  West  live  entirely  upon  pork  and  corn , 
in  some  parts  of  the  West  the  living  is  coarse  enough  ;  but  in  such 
villages  as  I  am  now  describing,  the  family  table  is  spread  with  all 
the  comforts  and  delicacies  of  the  East — excepting  of  course  sea 
food,  which  can  be  had  only  in  pickle  or  in  jars  hermetically 
sealed. 

' '  And  then  the  living  is  cheap,  even  in  the  choicer  articles  of  food. 
Think  of  fine,  fat,  spring  chickens  for  $  1  or  $1  50  per  dozen  ;  of 
quails  (partridges)  and  pigeons  in  abundance  ;  of  eggs  at  three  or 
four  cents  a  dozen ;  of  beef  at  six  or  eight  cents  a  pound ;  of  a  tur 
key  weighing  nineteen  pounds  for  fifty  cents  ;  and  of  flour  at  $3 
or  $4  a  barrel.  A  man  can  live  like  a  prince  in  Jacksonville  for 
what  would  barely  suffice  to  pay  his  house-rent  in  New  York. 

"  And  yet  how  many  mechanics  and  clerks  are  ekeing  out  a 
scanty  subsistence  in  New  York  upon  a  precarious  income  of  from 
$500  to  $1,500,  when  for  the  first  named  sum  they  might  live  com 
fortably  in  such  a  western  village,  and  possibly  lay  up  money  be 
sides.  Many,  especially  mechanics,  could  find  ready  employment 
in  such  places  at  good  wages.  If,  however,  too  many  should  crowd 
at  once  into  the  same  place,  competition  would  ensue,  and  with  it 
would  come  many  of  the  evils  of  city  life.  Indeed  I  almost  hesitate 
to  let  out  the  secret  of  this  western  paradise,  and  I  surely  dread  to 
have  its  Arcadian  repose  disturbed  by  the  puffing  of  the  locomotive 
with  an  express  train  from  New  York. 

"  The  great  railroads  will  essentially  modify  the  main  features  of 
western  life  ;  will  equalize  prices  by  finding  a  market  for  produce, 
and  by  bringing  in  more  abundantly  goods  from  abroad ;  will  in 
troduce  more  of  the  city  element  into  business,  and  will  make  ad 
venturers  and  speculators  still  more  abundant.  In  due  time  these 
prairies  will  be  attached  to  the  suburbs  of  New  York  ;  the  great 
West  will  be  but  a  day's  ride  into  the  country  ;  and  its  inhabitants 
will  be  sending  to  New  York  for  their  flour  and  garden  sauce. 

"  The  churches  contribute  to  all  objects  of  Christian  benevo 
lence.  There  are  also  in  the  village  several  societies — some  formed 
exclusively  of  ladies — for  aiding  the  cause  of  missions  and  the 
cause  of  education.  From  this  source  relief  is  afforded  to  indigent 


824  WESTERN     PORTRAITURE. 

students  in  the  college,  and  female  teachers  are  educated  for  the 
common  schools  of  the  State ;  the  daughters  of  ministers  and  of 
farmers,  accustomed  to  hard  fare  and  hard  work,  and  familiar  with 
western  society,  are  thus  qualified  for  the  office  of  instruction,  and 
these  in  general  prove  to  be  more  efficient  and  adaptative  teachers 
than  those  sent  from  the  East.  The  money  expended  upon  Jack 
sonville  is  already  yielding  a  good  return.  Here  the  Portuguese 
exiles  have  found  a  home,  with  a  congenial  climate,  warm  Chris 
tian  sympathy,  and  steady  employment  and  support.  They  are 
mostly  doing  well ;  and  with  a  little  Yankee  thrift  and  tidiness 
might  do  far  better. 

"The  Charitable  Institutions  of  the  State  are  located  at  this 
point.  Asylums  for  the  Deaf  and  Dumb,  the  Insane,  and  the 
Blind,  occupy  relatively  three  sides  of  a  quadrangle  around  the 
village,  each  about  a  mile  from  its  center.  The  fh*st  of  these  has 
about  one  hundred  inmates,  and  is  under  excellent  regulation. 

"  The  institution  is  sustained  wholly  by  State-tax.  Its  inmates 
appeared  cheerful  and  bright,  as  the  deaf  and  dumb  always  do. 
In  general  they  are  quick  learners,  and  enjoy  the  acquisition  of 
knowledge.  While  I  stood  by  and  witnessed  their  devotions  at 
morning  prayer  in  the  chapel,  I  was  so  struck  with  the  expressive 
ness  of  signs  or  symbols  for  religious  uses,  that  I  almost  became 
upon  the  spot  a  convert  to  Dr.  Bushnell's  theory  of  language.  It 
was  aifecting  to  hear  the  unintelligent,  mechanical  utterance  of 
sounds  by  some  who  had  once  used  the  organs  of  speech,  but  who, 
with  the  loss  of  hearing,  had  ceased  also  to  speak.  The  Asylum 
for  the  Insane  is  not  yet  in  operation.  The  noble  building,  like 
that  for  the  deaf  and  dumb,  occupies  a  little  rise  of  ground,  and 
is  visible  at  a  great  distance.  From  the  cupola  of  either  you  have 
an  extensive  prospect  of  the  prairie  sea,  diversified  with  island 
groves.  The  Institution  for  the  Blind  is  in  successful  operation, 
but  the  building  designed  for  it  is  not  yet  completed. 

"  The  Methodists  have  erected  at  Jacksonville  a  large  Female 
Seminary,  a  product  of  their  centenary  fund.  There  is  also  an 
other  Female  Academy  in  the  place,  of  a  high  order,  and  of  long 
standing,  under  the  auspices  of  Congregationalists  and  Presbyte 
rians.  In  addition  to  this,  there  is  a  sort  of  Free  Academy,  and  a 
good  supply  of  schools  of  every  grade.  But  to  me  the  chief  object 
of  interest,  both  historically  and  prospectively,  was  Illinois  Col 
lege.  For  years  I  had  been  familiar  with  the  toils  and  struggles 
of  the  men  engaged  in  founding  and  rearing  that  institution,  and 
it  was  with  no  common  emotion  that  I  looked  upon  the  work  of 


325 

their  hands.  The  site  selected  for  the  college  is  the  most  beauti 
ful  in  all  the  region,  and  perhaps  is  not  equalled  in  the  State.  Upon 
a  rise  of  ground,  skirted  with  a  luxuriant  grove,  far  away  from 
the  miasma  of  rivers,  the  bustle  of  commerce,  and  the  wrangle  of 
politics,  is  this  seat  of  learning  and  religion,  which  was  itself  mo 
deled  in  the  main  after  Yale  College. 

"  I  was  more  disturbed  than  disappointed  at  finding  the  college 
buildings  so  unsightly  and  so  illy  adapted  to  the  present  wants  of 
the  institution.  The  main  building,  which  is  the  primitive  chapel 
pieced  out,  is  so  low  in  the  stories  and  so  cramped  in  all  its  dimen 
sions,  that  one  has  to  stoop  in  order  to  enter  it  or  to  get  up  the 
steep  and  narrow  stairway;  the  recitation  rooms  are  poorly 
finished,  and  the  whole  structure  looks  old  and  crazy.  It  was 
built  with  poor  brick  and  in  dear  times.  The  people  of  Jack 
sonville  should  replace  it  by  one  more  worthy  of  their  present 
prosperity ;  they  should  not  suffer  such  an  eye-sore  to  mar  the 
most  lovely  spot  in  their  town.  Let  them  send  a  committee  to 
Beloit  to  see  the  building  that  the  citizens  of  that  infant  place  have 
erected  for  their  College,  and  then  go  to  work  at  once  with  a  sub 
scription  paper  for  their  own. 

"  The  College  is  now  well  manned  both  in  the  number  and  the 
quality  of  its  instructors.  There  is  need,  however,  of  a  Professor 
of  Rhetoric,  to  impart  a  polish  and  finish  to  the  strong,  rough  ma 
terials  of  the  western  mind. 

"  To  pass  from  the  intellectual  to  the  physical,  I  saw  at  Jack 
sonville  a  striking  connection  between  these  two,  in  the  hedge 
recently  introduced  by  Mr.  Turner,  formerly  Professor  in  the 
College.  It  would  puzzle  the  'cutest  Yankee  to  guess  out  the  con 
nection  between  hedges  and  common  schools  ;  but  here  they  must 
rise  or  fall  together.  Years  ago,  Pi'ofessor  T.  attempted  to  intro 
duce  into  Illinois  the  New  England  system  of  Common  Schools. 
But  he  soon  found  that  the  farmers,  who  had  located  their  farms 
along  the  borders  of  the  prairies,  near  the  timber,  in  order  to  build 
their  fences  with  ease,  were  too  widely  scattered  to  be  formed  into 
school  districts  after  the  New  England  fashion.  Before  this  could 
be  done,  some  method  must  be  devised  of  fencing  the  prairies, 
BO  that  settlements  could  be  made  in  the  centers.  Mr.  T.  experi 
mented  with  various  shrubs  for  hedging,  but  without  success,  until 
he  made  trial  of  the  Osage  orange  ;  this  grows  rapidly,  endures 
the  winter,  and  ic  covered  with  thorns.  It  has  become  universally 
popular,  and  already  stretches  across  the  prairies  for  hundreds 
of  miles.  Now  it  is  practicable  to  plant  a  village  in  the  very 
28 


826  WESTERN    PORTRAITURE. 

heart  of  a  prairie,  with  farms  stretching  outward  to  its  borders ; 
and  in  these  compact  settlements  schools  and  churches  can  be  sus 
tained.  So  much  for  the  union  of  natural  and  moral  husbandry. 
Jlpropos  of  shrubbery,  I  may  mention  that  every  shade  tree  in 
Jacksonville,  of  which  there  are  hundreds,  was  set  out  within  the 
memory  of  inhabitants  not  yet  gray. 

"  I  have  now  said  enough  of  Jacksonville  for  one  letter,  and 
yet  the  half  is  not  yet  told.  But  I  must  hasten  on  to  the  Missis 
sippi. 

"  In  conclusion  I  will  give  only  one  additional  evidence  of  pro 
gress  in  this  region.  Fifteen  years  ago,  about  the  time  of  the  Al 
ton  riot,  the  College  commencements  were  held  under  the  restraint 
of  a  mob,  upon  the  watch  lest  any  allusion  should  be  made  to 
Liberty.  Now,  a  graduate  of  Illinois  College,  an  intelligent  law 
yer  residing  in  Jacksonville,  has  just  been  elected  to  Congress  as 
a  known  free-soiler.  T." 

Some  pages  back  is  given  a  description,  by  Mr.  T.,  of  a 
flood  in  the  Illinois  river ;  and  here  follows  his  account  of 
a  flood  in  the  Mississippi ;  the  fearful  grandeur  of  these 
occurrences  cannot  be  appreciated  without  witnessing 
them  : 

"It  was  worth  no  little  inconvenience  and  disappointment  in 
other  respects,  to  see  the  Mississippi  at  its  flood,  and  especially  the 
flood  of  this  year's  June.  The  water  has  been  higher  in  some 
former  years ;  at  St.  Louis  it  was  yet  some  eighteen  inches  below 
the  highest  mark  on  the  flood  monument ;  but  the  annual  rise  of 
the  Missouri  had  not  taken  place,  and  this  flood  came  chiefly  from 
the  Upper  Mississippi  and  its  tributaries.  In  Iowa  there  was  a 
more  general  rising  of  the  streams  than  has  been  known  since  its 
settlement  by  white  men. 

"  To  conceive  rightly  of  the  appearance  of  this  flood,  one  must 
form  a  conception  of  the  bottoms  that  flank  the  Mississippi  on 
either  side.  These  bottoms  resemble  what  at  the  East  is  called  a 
marsh,  except  that  when  the  river  is  low  they  are  not  wet  and 
miry  like  our  marshes,  and  they  are  commonly  more  or  less  cov 
ered  with  a  heavy  growth  of  timber.  The  bottoms  of  the  Missis 
sippi  are  not  uniform ;  sometimes  they  occur  on  both  sides  of  the 
river,  sometimes  only  on  one,  while  there  is  a  high  bluff  or  bank 
on  the  other ;  not  unfrequently  they  reach  back  to  a  distance  of 


327 

eight  or  ten  miles  and  even  farther,  being  bounded  by  an  eleva 
tion  or  bluff,  which  may  have  been  the  ancient  bank  of  the  river. 
In  ordinary  stages  of  the  water  these  bottoms  are  so  far  drained 
by  absorption  and  evaporation,  that  they  may  be  brought  under 
cultivation,  and  the  temptation  to  this  is  strong,  on  account  of 
the  richness  of  the  alluvial  deposits.  Hence  in  spite  of  past  floods 
the  soil  of  the  bottom  is  broken  up  by  the  plow,  and  the  seed 
sown  in  hope  of  exemption  from  another  rise.  These  bottoms, 
however,  are  more  apt  to  be  occupied  by  the  poorer  class  of  peo 
ple,  who  earn  their  living  by  cutting  wood  for  the  boats,  and  who 
are  content  to  live  in  a  rude  cabin  surrounded  by  a  little  garden 
patch. 

A  rise  of  a  few  inches  in  the  level  of  the  river  suffices  to  over 
flow  the  bottoms,  and  sometimes,  as  during  the  present  summer, 
they  are  covered  with  water  for  an  area  of  many  miles,  and  to  the 
depth,  perhaps,  of  several  feet.  Such  a  rise  is  of  course  highly 
destructive  to  property,  and  sometimes  to  life.  Wood,  grain,  and 
cattle  are  swept  away  ;  crops  are  destroyed  ;  fences  and  other  im 
provements  are  demolished ;  houses  made  untenantable,  and  their 
occupants  obliged  to  flee  for  safety  to  the  higher  ground  in  the 
rear.  The  damage  done  by  such  a  flood,  spreading  over  thousands 
of  miles  and  continuing  for  many  weeks,  can  be  computed  only  by 
millions  of  dollars.  I  heard  of  one  individual  who  lost  by  this 
flood  1,500  cords  of  wood  (worth  from  $3,000  to  $4,000)  and  3,000 
sacks  of  grain. 

"  The  aspect  of  the  river  during  the  flood  is  at  once  majestic  and 
picturesque.  Well  does  it  then  deserve  the  name  Father  of  Waters. 
You  behold  a  strong,  swift  current,  in  or  near  the  accustomed  bed 
of  the  stream,  running  perhaps  seven  miles  an  hour,  and  some 
times  forcing  for  itself  a  new  channel,  while  on  either  hand  the 
water  spreads  out  among  the  trees  as  far  as  the  eye  can  reach, 
giving  the  impression  of  a  sail  through  a  deluged  grove.  The  many 
islands  of  the  river,  some  of  them  beautifully  wooded,  highten  tho 
picturesque  effect,  and  contribute  to  this  illusion.  In  one  instance, 
through  an  opening  in  the  woods,  I  saw  the  bottom  overspread  to 
an  extent  that  the  eye  could  not  measure — the  bluffs  seemed  as 
remote  as  does  the  Long  Island  shore  in  passing  up  the  Sound  to 
New  Haven — but  here  and  there  fragments  of  fences,  a  haypole, 
or  the  roof  of  a  barn  were  seen  jutting  up  as  melancholy  monu 
ments  of  the  general  ruin. 

"  Some  of  the  towns  on  the  river  have  suffered  severely  from 
the  inundation  of  their  lower  streets  ;  but  others,  such  as  Alton, 


328  WESTERN    PORTRAITURE. 

Quincy,  and  Keokuk,  which  are  built  mainly  upon  the  bluffs 
have  escaped.  Alexandria,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Des  Moines  river, 
appeared  to  have  been  the  heaviest  sufferer ;  nearly  if  not  every 
house  being  more  or  less  inundated,  and  the  inhabitants  having 
deserted  the  town  almost  en  masse.  I  was  told  by  a  fellow-trav 
eler  that  the  ferry-boat  which  usually  runs  about  half  a  mile 
across  the  mouth  of  the  river,  was  obliged  to  sail  eight  miles  across 
the  bottom  to  make  a  landing. 

"  Think  now  of  the  volume  of  water  requisite  to  raise  the  Mis 
sissippi  a  few  inches  only,  when  these  immense  bottoms  are  over 
flowed,  especially  to  raise  it,  as  was  one  day  noted,  at  the  rate  of  an 
inch  an  hour,  or  two  feet  in  the  twenty-four  !  I  never  before  had 
such  an  impression  of  the  power  of  water  as  an  agent  in  geolog 
ical  changes  ;  nothing  can  resist  such  a  flood.  There  is  much  in 
the  geological  features  of  this  region  to  indicate  the  agency  of  far 
mightier  floods  in  years  or  ages  gone.  Perhaps,  as  has  been  sug 
gested,  the  great  lakes  once  emptied  through  this  channel  to  the 
sea.  Lake  Michigan  seems  now  on  the  map  to  be  turned  upside 
doAvn,  and  the  almost  dead  level  at  Chicago  favors  the  idea  that  it 
once  emptied  itself  southward.  In  digging  a  well  at  Jacksonville 
there  was  found,  twenty-five  feet  below  the  surface,  a  solitary 
piece  of  Lake  Superior  copper.  How  came  it  there  ?  Or  whence 
came  the  marine  shells  that  strew  the  bank  of  the  Mississippi  near 
New  Boston  ? 

"  For  a  considerable  distance  above  St.  Louis,  the  banks  of  the 
Mississippi  are  comparatively  level, -excepting  the  bluffs  of  Alton 
and  Quincy;  but  above  the  rapids,  the  bluffs  become  a  more  fre 
quent  feature  of  the  scenery,  and  when  cultivated  or  covered  with 
shrubbery,  are  exceedingly  beautiful.  The  entrance  of  Fevre 
river,  especially,  presents  commanding  bluffs,  rising  in  a  conical 
form,  to  which  the  name  of  mounds  is  given,  and  which  serve  as 
way-marks  to  the  traveler.  Opposite  Dubuque  I  noticed  several 
artificial  mounds,  usually  supposed  to  be  the  burial  places  of  the 
Indians. 

"  As  I  here  gazed  at  sunset  upon  the  bluff  of  castellated  rock, 
its  green  summit  crowned  with  these  sepulchral  knolls,  arranged 
with  the  precision  and  order  of  a  camp,  and  then  looked  down 
upon  its  solemn  shadow  in  the  still  stream  below,  I  seemed  to  stand 
within  the  halls  of  a  departed  race,  where  wild  mirth  and  revelry, 
the  war-whoop  and  the  battle  dance  broke  on  my  ear,  till  suddenly 
there  came  a  rush  of  many  feet,  a  whirlwind,  and  a  cloud,  and 
mirth  and  dance  and  battle  song  were  hushed  in  death. 


THOMPSON'S  LETTERS,  329 

"  '  Are  they  here  ? — 

The  dead  of  other  days  ? — and  did  the  dust 
Of  these  fair  solitudes  once  stir  with  life 
And  burn  with  passion  ?     Let  the  mighty  mounds 
That  overlook  the  rivers,  or  that  rise 
In  the  dim  forest,  crowded  with  old  oaks, 
Answer.     A  race  that  long  has  passed  away, 
Built  them  ;  a  disciplined  and  populous  race 
Heaped,  with  long  toil,  the  earth,  while  yet  the  Greek 
Was  hewing  the  Pentilicus  to  forms 
Of  symmetry,  and  rearing  on  its  rock 
The  glittering  Parthenon.        *        *         * 
*         *         *        *         The  red  man  came — 
The  roaming  hunter-tribes,  warlike  and  fierce, 
And  the  mound-builders  vanished  from  the  earth. 
The  solitude  of  centuries  untold 
Has  settled  where  they  dwelt.        *        *        * 
Thus  change  the  forms  of  being.     Thus  arise 
Races  of  living  things,  glorious  in  strength, 
And  perish,  as  the  quickening  breath  of  God 
Fills  them,  or  is  withdrawn.     The  red  man,  too-, 
Has  left  the  blooming  wilds  he  ranged  so  long, 
And,  nearer  to  the  Rocky  Mountains,  sought 
A  wider  hunting-ground.' — BRYANT. 


"  A  day  spent  at  KEOKUK  was  not  lost  nor  regretted,  for  it  gave 
me  an  opportunity  of  seeing  one  of  the  most  promising  young 
cities  of  the  West,  in  the  first  impulse  of  its  growth  and  prosperity. 
Keokuk  is  finely  situated  in  the  southeastern  extremity  of  Iowa, 
at  the  foot  of  the  Mississippi  rapids,  where  it  must  always  be  a 
principal  depot  of  trade  between  the  river  and  the  interior.  Hav 
ing  one  broad  street  on  the  river  slope,  the  main  body  of  the  town 
is  built  back  upon  the  bluff,  whence  is  enjoyed  a  fine  prospect  of 
the  river  and  its  bends  above  and  below.  A  few  years  since  this 
place  was  the  rendezvous  of  gamblers,  horse-thieves,  and  all  sorts 
of  miscreants.  Its  very  name  was  a  terror,  and  the  lives  of  immi 
grants  and  strangers  were  never  secure  there  for  a  single  night. 
But  the  owners  of  the  soil,  and  others  who  saw  the  fitness  of  the 
place  for  trade,  entered  into  a  combination  to  oust  these  nefarious 
characters,  and  now  all  trace  of  them  is  gone,  except  here  and 
there  a  gambling-saloon,  which  you  will  see  undisguised  in  almost 
every  Mississippi  town.  Religious  influences  came  in  to  aid  this 
reform,  and  the  result  is  that  the  whole  character  of  the  place  is- 
changed,  and  it  offers  the  highest  inducements  to  settlers.  To  be 


380  WESTERN    PORTRAITURE. 

sure,  its  growth  has  been  somewhat  impeded  by  the  Half-Breed 
difficulties,  and  dispute  about  titles  (the  Half-breeds  to  whom  this 
land  was  ceded,  having  sold  their  interest  over  and  over  again, 
and  thus  created  a  variety  of  claimants) ;  but  notwithstanding 
this,  its  natural  advantages  and  the  enterprise  of  its  business  men 
have  put  it  quite  in  the  foreground  as  a  commercial  town. 

"  At  present  the  Presbyterian  Church  is  without  a  pastor,  but 
Rev.  Mr.  Williams,  who  is  engaged  in  teaching,  supplies  its  pulpit 
very  acceptably.  Mr.  W.  is  building  a  fine  stone  mansion,  after 
the  plan  of  Downing's  octagon,  in  connection  with  which  he  will 
have  a  Seminary  for  young  ladies,  of  the  highest  order.  I  found 
an  excellent  teacher  from  the  Ladies'  Society  of  Boston,  engaged 
here  in  a  prosperous  school,  herself  and  her  labors  being  held  in 
much  esteem. 

"  There  is  a  grant  of  forty  acres  of  valuable  land  in  this  place 
for  the  use  of  a  Congregational  church,  whenever  one  shall  be  es 
tablished  ;  but  the  time  for  a  second  church  does  not  yet  seem  to 
have  arrived. 

"  It  was  interesting  to  observe  how  the  trade  of  this  region  is 
setting  toward  New  York.  While  Keokuk  is  increasing  its  trade 
with  the  interior  by  plankroads,  it  is  looking  forward  to  the  com 
pletion  of  railroad  enterprises  that  shall  bring  it  within  a  few  days 
of  this  metropolis.  The  same  is  true  generally  of  Iowa,  Wiscon 
sin,  and  Illinois.  An  intelligent  merchant  was  one  day  comment 
ing,  in  my  hearing,  on  the  foolish  and  suicidal  subserviency  of  the 
St.  Louis  press  to  the  slaveholding  interest.  I  rejoined,  that  I  sup 
posed  St.  Louis  was  sure  of  her  Western  trade,  and  was  bidding 
for  the  Southern.  '  Not  so,'  said  he ;  'it  is  exactly  the  reverse. 
She  is  sure  of  some  southern  trade,  but  we  are  only  waiting  for 
railroads  to  be  completed  that  we  may  deal  with  New  York.'  There 
is  some  moral  here  for  New  York  merchants. 

"  The  geology  of  Keokuk  is  interesting.  There  is  a  rich  quarry 
near  by,  where  geodes  and  trilobites  are  found  in  abundance,  and 
of  remarkable  beauty. 

"  Montrose  is  a  small  town  about  twelve  miles  north  of  Keokuk. 
The  approach  to  it  by  land  is  very  beautiful.  From  a  bluff  about 
two  miles  distant,  you  see  cultivated  farms  and  a  neat  village 
spread  out  in  the  bottom  at  your  feet,  the  river  winding  gracefully 
around,  while  on  the  opposite  bluff  glitters  the  huge  marble  tem 
ple  of  Nauvoo,  where  the  Icarian  CABET  is  now  trying  his  Socialist 
experiment  with  four  hundred  families,  that  live  apart,  but  have 
all  things  in  common.  I  allude  to  this  place  merely  to  speak  of 


THOMPSON'S  LETTERS.  331 

the  worthy  and  self-denying  labors  of  Rev.  Mr.  Beaman,  the  home 
missionary  stationed  here,  who  traverses  a  circuit  of  fifteen  or 
twenty  miles,  and  sustains  ten  preaching  stations. 

"  FORT  MADISON. — This  town  is  somewhat  of  a  rival  to  Keokuk, 
though  its  natural  advantages  are  inferior,  on  account  of  the  rap 
ids,  which  at  low  water  are  impassable  by  the  larger  boats.  It 
has  the  air  of  a  substantial,  well-built  town,  whose  inhabitants  are 
preity  independent  of  the  rest  of  the  world.  The  State  Peniten 
tiary  is  located  here,  to  which  a  criminal  convicted  of  murder  was 
conducted  as  we  were  passing  up  the  river.  Thus  crime  every 
where  obtrudes  itself,  and  deforms  the  most  lovely  scenes  of  nature 
anl  the  happiest  abodes  of  men. 

•'  BURLINGTON. — A  fair  and  thriving  city  is  Burlington,  with  its 
loig  levee  bustling  with  busy  life,  and  its  substantial  stores  and 
fine  churches  of  brick  and  stone.  It  does  not  grow  now  so  rapidly 
as  heretofore,  partly  because  of  the  removal  of  the  Seat  of  Govern 
ment  to  IOWA  CITY,  and  partly  on  account  of  a  reputation  for  un- 
healthiness,  which  has  been  greatly  exaggerated.  Yet  it  increases 
with  a  steady  and  healthy  growth.  The  society  of  the  place  is 
hospitable,  intelligent,  and  refined ;  and  in  religious  privileges 
Burlington  is  not  surpassed  by  any  western  town.  Its  ministers, 
of  all  denominations,  are  able  and  efficient  men,  and  its  newspaper 
press  is  quite  above  the  average.  I  heard  here  an  excellent  dis 
course  from  Rev.  Mr.  Salter,  pastor  of  the  Congregational  Church, 
in  improvement  of  the  then  desolating  flood.  One  could  not  but 
jemark  how  serious  a  detriment  to  the  quiet,  the  good  order,  and 
ihe  good  morals  of  the  place,  is  the  desecration  of  the  Sabbath  by 
the  arrival  and  departure  of  steamboats.  The  shrill  whistle  star 
tles  the  whole  town ;  all  is  bustle  at  the  hotels,  while  the  levee  is 
thronged  with  laborers  awaiting  to  receive  or  send  off  freight. 
No  wonder  that  western  pastors  are  grieved  when,  in  the  midst  of 
all  this  tumult,  some  minister  or  other  Christian  brother  from  the 
East  lands  from  the  boat,  or  takes  his  passage  to  economize  time. 

"DAVENPORT. — This  town  boasts  of  a  finer  location  than  almost 
any  other  on  the  Mississippi.  Here  the  bluff  assumes  a  sort  of 
Highland  beauty,  cultivated  however  to  a  degree  of  which  the  bar 
ricades  of  the  Hudson  will  not  admit.  Davenport  is  a  healthy  lo 
cation,  and  partly  on  this  account  has  been  selected  as  the  site  of 
Iowa  College.  This  institution  has  opened  under  good  auspices. 
A  small  but  neat  building  has  been  erected  for  its  use,  on  a  sum 
mit  in  the  rear  of  the  town.  The  location  is  central  as  regards  the 
river  boundary  of  Iowa,  but  as  the  state  fills  up  it  may  require  to 


332  WESTERN    PORTRAITURE. 

be  removed  to  the  interior,  and  away  from  the  temptations  of  a 
river  town,  with  its  usual  incidents  of  gambling  houses  and  stroll 
ing  circuses  and  theaters,  which  are  here  transported  by  steam 
boat  from  place  to  place.  This  should  be  well  considered  before 
much  money  is  invested  in  college  buildings,  and  especially  in  view 
of  the  proximity  into  which  Davenport  will  soon  be  brought  by 
railroad  to  Illinois  and  Knox,  and  to  Beloit  Colleges.  Beautiful  as 
is  the  present  location  of  the  College,  and  eligible  just  now  in  all 
respects  as  is  the  town  that  has  adopted  this  infant  institution,  I 
must  doubt  whether  it  should  here  become  a  fixture.  These,  how 
ever,  are  mere  passing  observations,  thrown  out  in  entire  friendli 
ness,  as  hints  to  those  more  competent  to  judge. 

"  Bellevue  is  rightly  named,  seated  as  it  is  upon  a  bend  of  the 
river,  where  it  commands  a  view  for  miles  of  its  broad  rolling  flood. 
Like  Keokuk,  once  a  nest  of  thieves  and  gamblers,  now  purified  and 
reviving  under  happier  influences.  How  destructive  is  vice  to  pros 
perity,  and  to  society  itself!  Religion  is  the  conservator  of  both." 

"  DUBUQUE. — I  felt  at  home  in  Dubuque,  especially  when  I  found 
myself  in  the  comfortable  abode  and  amid  the  warm  fraternil 
greetings  of  '  Our  Iowa  Correspondent.'  How  sweetly  this  queen 
city,  with  its  wide,  rectangular,  well-shaded  streets,  lies  spread 
out  upon  its  broad  plateau,  much  as  New  Haven  lies  between  east 
and  west  rocks ;  but  New  Haven  can  never  boast  of  such  a  verdure 
as  here  clothes  alike  bluff  and  plateau.  And  then  the  river,  here 
a  mile  in  width,  rolling  so  majestically,  flanked  on  its  other  shor3 
with  tall  and  verdant  bluffs,  and  studded  with  islands  of  richest 
green  !  How  gorgeous  that  sunset  view,  varying  with  every  tint 
of  sky,  and  water,  and  meadow,  and  woodland,  as  I  reclined  upon 
the  bluff,  (I  should  call  this  a  hill,  but  that  nomenclature  is  foreign 
to  the  West,)  and  for  a  moment  forgot  that  there  was  aught  in  the 
world  save  beauty  and  love,  the  love  of  nature,  the  love  of  God,  the 
love  of  Christian  brethren,  here  made  one  ! 

"  I  was  surprised  to  find  in  these  remote  parts  a  fine,  commo 
dious  brick  church,  with  a  neat  white  steeple,  pretty  green  blinds, 
an  organ,  a  lecture-room,  and  every  appurtenance  for  the  comfort 
of  the  congregation.  This  was  built  mainly  through  the  personal 
exertions  of  Rev.  Mr.  Holbrook,  who  came  here  as  a  home  mission 
ary  to  a  then  insignificant  settlement,  and  has  seen  spring  up  around 
him  a  city  that  can  subscribe  its  hundreds  of  thousands  to  railroads 
and  other  public  improvements.  In  ten  years  its  population  has 
increased  from  1,300  to  3,710 ;  but  that  of  Burlington  has  increased 
from  1,300  to  5,102." 


333 

The  population  of  these  cities  is  understated ;  they  each 
contain  not  far  from  7,000  inhabitants,  and  are  rapidly 
growing ;  one,  sustained  by  a  rich  mineral  region,  and  the 
other  by  a  farming  country  : 

"  Here,  as  in  many  western  towns,  are  the  foundations  of  a  huge 
Catholic  cathedral,  yet  to  be ;  and  the  bishop  has  here  fixed  his 
seat.  A  Fourth  of  July  procession  of  the  united  Sabbath  schools 
of  Galena  and  Dubuque — a  row  of  happy  children  a  mile  in  length — 
that  chanced  to  cross  his  path,  must  have  suggested  to  him  that  he 
has  work  to  do.  Our  Bishop  HOLBROOK  can  well  afford  to  laugh, 
where  once  he  might  have  feared. 

"  The  mining  resources  of  Dubuque  and  its  vicinity,  in  marble 
and  coal,  and  in  lead  and  other  metals,  are  very  extensive,  and 
must  be  productive  of  vast  wealth.  Iowa  is  destined  to  become  a 
rich  State;  for,  beside  a  most  fertile  soil,  it  has  treasures  within 
the  earth,  unmeasured  and  perhaps  inexhaustible.  Emigration  is 
setting  largely  toward  this  State  the  present  season,  and  the  emi 
grants  are  generally  of  the  better  class.  I  asked  several  why  they 
did  not  go  into  Missouri,  where  the  land  and  climate  are  equally 
good.  The  uniform  reply  was,  that  they  would  not  live  in  a  slave 
State.  An  intelligent  man  from  the  interior  of  Iowa,  on  the  Mis 
souri  line,  told  me  that  he  could  buy  cleared  farms  in  Missouri  for 
a  very  slight  advance  on  government  prices  ;  while  farms  in  no 
better  condition,  on  the  Iowa  side  of  the  line,  would  command  from 
ten  to  fifteen  dollars  an  acre !  There  is  the  economy  of  slavery. 
I  found  some  emigrating  from  Missouri  into  Iowa  for  that  very 
cause.  I  was  surprised  at  the  quantity  of  household  furniture  and 
farming  utensils  brought  up  the  Mississippi  by  every  boat. 

"  A  true  pioneer  crossed  my  path.  He  had  lived  in  Iowa  since 
its  first  settlement,  but  now  the  inhabitants  were  getting  too  thick 
for  him  there.  They  had  towns  and  fences,  and  '  lawing  and  jaw 
ing,'  and  he  was  going  West.  He  had  been  up  to  the  head  waters 
of  the  Missouri,  and  had  secured  a  quiet  spot  among  the  Indians 
of  Nebraska. 

"  What  a  field  does  Iowa  open  to  the  emigrant,  and  what  a  field 
to  the  Christian!  With  50,914  square  miles,  or  32,584,960  acres 
of  rich  land,  and  yet  greater  riches  in  the  bowels  of  the  earth ; 
with  schools,  academies,  churches,  and  a  college,  springing  into 
vigorous  life,  Iowa  must  yet  become  one  of  the  chief  States  of  the 
Union.  As  yet,  only  its  Mississippi  border  can  be  said  to  be  in 
habited  ;  but,  in  ten  years,  its  population  has  increased  from  43,111 


334  WESTERN    PORTRAITURE. 

to  192,247,  a  gain  of  nearly  150,000.     This  increase  will  hereafter 
be  much  more  rapid. 

"  '  I  hear 

The  sound  of  that  advancing  multitude 
Which  soon  shall  fill  these  deserts.     From  the  ground 
Comes  up  the  laugh  of  children,  the  soft  voice 
Of  maidens  ;  and  the  sweet  and  solemn  hymn 
Of  Sabbath  worshipers.     The  low  of  herds 
Blends  with  the  rustling  of  the  heavy  grain 
Over  the  dark-brown  furrows.' 

"  One  thing  already  gives  everywhere  the  sign  of  civilized  life — 
the  Telegraph  wire  stretching  from  post  to  post  along  all  the  routes 
of  travel,  and  having  a  station  in  almost  every  town.  It  seemed 
like  the  nervous  system  of  the  nation,  conveying,  quick  as  thought, 
the  least  sensation  from  extremity  to  head,  the  least  volition  from 
head  to  extremity.  Like  the  great  sympathetic  nerve,  too,  it  has 
its  ganglions,  where  nervous  action  is  concentrated  to  be  farther 
distributed  along  the  lines  of  feeling.  Or,  like  a  vast  arterial  sys 
tem,  it  carries  the  pulsations  of  the  heart  to  the  farthest  extremity ; 
and  by  these  wires  stretched  across  the  Mississippi,  I  could  hear 
the  sharp,  quick  beating  of  the  great  heart  of  New  York.  Hugh 
Miller's  beautiful  conception  of  the  telegraph  music,  as  he  stood 
waiting  for  a  railroad  train,  chimes  in  with  my  feelings  as  I  gazed 
upon  the  wires  beyond  the  Father  of  Waters. 

" '  There  blew  a  breeze  from  the  west,  just  strong  enough, 
though  it  scarce  waved  the  withered  grass  on  the  slopes  below,  to 
set  the  wires  of  the  electric  telegraph  a- vibrating  overhead,  and 
they  rung  sonorous  and  clear  in  the  quiet  of  the  morning,  like  the 
strings  of  some  gigantic  musical  instrument.  How  many  thousand 
passengers  must  have  hurried  along  the  rails  during  the  last 
twelvemonth,  their  ears  so  filled  by  the  grinding  noises  of  the  wheels 
and  the  snortings  of  the  engine,  as  never  to  have  discovered  that 
each  stretch  from  post  to  post  of  the  wires  that  accompanies  them 
throughout  their  journey,  forms  a  great  JEolian  harp,  full,  when 
the  wind  blows,  of  all  rich  tones,  from  those  of  the  murmurs  of 
myriads  of  bees  collecting  honey-dew  among  the  leaves  of  a  forest, 
to  those  of  the  howlings  of  the  night-hurricane  amid  the  open  tur 
rets  and  deserted  corridors  of  some  haunted  castle.  I  bethought 
me — as  the  train,  half  enveloped  in  smoke  and  steam,  came  rush 
ing  up,  with  shriek  and  groan,  and  the  melody  above,  wild,  yet 
singularly  pleasing,  was  lost  in  the  din — of  Wordsworth's  fine  lines 
on  '  the  voice  of  tendency,'  and  found  that  they  had  become  sud 
denly  linked  in  my  mind  with  a  new  association : 


THOMPSON'S  LETTERS.  335 

•"The  mighty  stream  of  TENDENCY 
Utters,  for  elevation  of  our  thought, 
A  clear,  sonorous  voice,  inaudible 
To  the  vast  multitude,  whose  doom  it  is 
To  throng  the  clamorous  highways  of  the  world.' 

"  One  more  sheaf  to  be  gathered  from  the  prairies  and  groves  of 
Illinois  and  Wisconsin,  and  I  shall  lay  aside  the  sickle.  T." 

"  It  was  with  feelings  of  regret  that  I  bade  adieu  to  the  Missis 
sippi,  whose  company  I  had  kept  for  seven  days.  I  had  sailed  on 
the  bosom  of  a  flood  that  was  everywhere  asserting  its  dominion 
over  the  works  of  man,  submerging  alike  the  graves  of  a  departed 
race  and  the  habitations  of  living  men,  and  bearing  down  the  puny 
barriers  that  had  been  reared  to  arrest  its  progress.  I  had  traced 
its  desolating  march  through  dense  forest  shades,  over  well-tilled 
meadows,  and  along  busy  streets,  and  had  received  an  idea  of 
power — silent,  majestic,  irresistible — never  before  attained.  Yet 
with  this  power  there  was  beauty,  as  when  amid  the  lengthening 
shadows  of  bluff  and  island,  in  the  calm  hour  of  setting  day,  I  was 
paddled  across  the  flood  in  a  little  skiff,  and  laved  my  hands  in  the 
ripple  of  the  oarsman  which  alone  disturbed  its  surface.  The  rude 
worshipers  of  the  Nile  and  the  Ganges,  in  the  adoration  of  their 
monarch  rivers,  reveal  a  sentiment  of  the  grand  and  beautiful, 
which,  alas,  they  know  not  how  to  follow  up  to  its  highest  develop 
ment  in  a  spiritual  and  a  personal  God  ! 

<?  For  days,  too,  I  had  sailed  along  the  borders  of  mighty  States, 
the  growing  empires  of  the  New  World ;  and  above  the  sepulchral 
remains  of  creations  preparatory  to  our  own,  on  the  deep  alluvium 
which  for  thousands  of  years  has  been  depositing  over  the  rocky 
graves  of  the  mammalia  and  the  Crustacea  of  by-gone  ages,  above 
the  tombs  also  of  the  human  mound-builders  of  a  modern  era, 
I  had  seen  springing  up,  in  full  growth  and  vigor,  the  towns  and 
cities  of  that  energetic  and  all-diffusive  race  that  conceives  itself 
to  be  fulfilling  the  mission  of  man's  exalted  destiny.  I  had  seen 
everywhere  the  flood  of  emigration  rolling  like  the  Mississippi, 
and,  unchecked  by  the  natural  flood,  rolling  on  over  it,  as  the  Mis 
souri  pours  its  red  rushing  tide  across  the  bosom  of  the  Father  of 
Waters.  I  was  loth  to  leave  a  river  that  so  expresses  the  powerful 
and  the  beautiful,  and  that  links  together  the  almost  infinite  Past, 
the  eager  Present,  and  the  boundless  Future. 

"  And,  before  I  leave  it,  I  will  put  in  yet  another  plea  for  the 
freights  of  sin  and  of  living  death  that  it  bears  evermore  upon  its 


836  WESTERN    PORTRAITURE. 

bosom.  '  Sin  and  living  death'  on  every  boat  that  plies  its  waters, 
on  every  raft  that  floats  down  with  its  current.  An  intelligent 
English  traveler  makes  this  observation  upon  a  class  that  he  en 
countered  in  a  western  tour : 

"  '  The  reckless  notions  and  habits  of  the  vagrant  pioneers  of  the 
West,  evinced  as  these  are  by  the  practice  of  gambling,  drinking, 
and  licentiousness,  by  an  habitual  disregard  of  the  Sabbath,  and 
by  more  constant  swearing  than  I  ever  heard  anywhere  else,  fear 
fully  disfigure  that  great  valley  of  the  Mississippi,  destined  inevit 
ably,  at  no  distant  day,  to  be  the  preponderating  section  of  the  en 
tire  Union.' 

"  What  is  here  affirmed  of  a  class  of  pioneers  is  fearfully  true  of 
portions  of  the  boatmen  and  raftsmen  of  the  Mississippi.  I  took 
occasion  to  mingle  with  these  men  for  the  sake  of  studying  their 
character  and  mode  of  life,  and  of  ascertaining  if  there  was  any 
feasible  way  of  doing  them  good.  The  deck  hands  on  the  steam 
boats  are  commonly  Irish  or  Americans  of  the  lowest  class,  inter 
spersed  with  negroes.  Their  dress  and  fare  are  coarse,  their  sleep 
ing  bunks  miserably  furnished,  and  their  whole  physical  condition 
is  exceedingly  uncomfortable.  As  many  of  these  boats  consume 
several  days  in  their  regular  trips,  in  the  course  of  which  they 
often  stop  for  wood,  and  at  every  town  land  or  take  in  freight,  they 
usually  have  two  sets  of  hands,  who  work  and  rest  alternately  at 
intervals  of  four  hours.  The  resting  intervals  are  spent  in  sleep 
ing,  lounging,  smoking,  drinking,  swearing,  and  carousing,  and  the 
habits  of  profaneness  and  intemperance  grow  fearfully  upon  men 
who  have  no  companions  out  of  this  depraved  circle,  and  no  means 
of  excitement  but  the  bottle  and  the  vulgar  story  or  song.  On 
some  boats,  too,  they  are  treated  as  mere  brutes. 

"  Since  few  boats  on  the  Mississippi  lie  by  upon  the  Sabbath, 
these  hands  have  no  opportunity  of  attending  public  worship  or  of 
coming  under  any  religious  influence.  They  are  deprived,  too,  in  a 
great  measure  of  the  humanizing  influence  of  the  family.  I  never 
saw"men  who  seemed  so  hardened  ;  never  before  had  I  heard  or  even 
conceived  of  such  profaneness  as  fell  from  their  lips.  They  do  not 
open  their  mouths  without  an  oath — and  such  oaths  ! — they  are  the 
vomiting  forth  of  the  Abyss.  These  men  seemed  to  be  impervious 
to  any  religious  impression.  Death  by  drowning,  or  by  cholera,  is 
a  frequent  occurrence  on  the  Mississippi — two  such  cases  came  un 
der  my  immediate  knowledge — yet  death  produces  no  solemnity  in 
guch  minds.  I  saw  no  point  at  which  they  could  be  successfully 
approached.  But  shall  they  be  utterly  abandoned  ?  Is  there  no 


337 

way  of  reaching  them  ?  Might  not  missionaries  travel  with  these 
boats  continually  with  a  view  to  the  religious  benefit  of  their 
crews  ?  For  such  a  work  men  of  peculiar  tact  are  needed,  but, 
doubtless,  the  men  can  be  found  if  the  churches  will  employ  them 
in  the  work. 

The  lumbermen  who  in  the  spring  of  the  year  crowd  the  Missis 
sippi  with  their  rafts  are  mostly  Americans,  rough,  hardy  men,  who 
spend  the  winter  in  the  pine  regions-  of  Wisconsin  and  the  upper 
Mississippi,  and  in  the  spring  float  down  the  product  of  their  win 
ter's  toil  to  the  St.  Louis  market.  They  then  return  to  the 
'  pinery'  by  steamboat  and  stage,  with  plenty  of  money,  and  ripe 
for  all  manner  of  vicious  indulgence.  Some  of  them  are  men  of 
intelligence,  and  have  had  their  education  in  the  Common-schools 
and  Sabbath-schools  at  the  East ;  such  a  one  I  fell  in  with,  but 
found  him  ready  to  drink,  swear,  and  gamble,  like  the  rest,  though 
with  a  general  air  of  restraint.  These  men  have  much  of  the  free 
and  easy  air  of  sailors ;  they  lead  a  lawless,  plundering  life,  for  the 
lumber  they  cut  is  not  their  own,  but  felled  from  Government 
lands,  and  many  were  the  curses  and  threats  heaped  upon  the 
United  States  Marshal,  whose  advent  to  the  pinery  was  expected ; 
at  times  they  work  hard,  and  again  they  are  idle  and  listless,  and 
while  away  time  in  games  of  chance ;  they  encounter  hardships 
and  drink  '  for  health ;'  their  money  comes  in  the  lump  and  melts 
rapidly  away  under  the  warm  impulses  of  sensual  passion ;  they 
are  reckless  and  improvident.  Now  cannot  these  men  be  reached  ? 
They  could  be  if  some  Nelson  could  be  found  to  go  to  their  encamp 
ments.  Those  to  whom  I  suggested  it,  entertained  favorably  the 
idea  of  a  circulating  library  of  historical  and  other  useful  books, 
and  I  doubt  not  some  would  welcome  the  discreet  and  intelligent 
missionary.  Let  Christians  remember  these  men. 

"  GALENA. — By  an  unfortunate  transposition  of  letters  Galena 
is  located  on  the  maps  upon  Fever,  instead  of  Fevre,  river  (the 
latter  being  a  proper  name),  and  thus  has  gone  forth  a  rumor  of 
the  unhealthiness  of  the  place.  The  river  on  whose  rocky  shelf 
this  town  is  built,  is  here  more  properly  an  arm  of  the  Mississippi 
setting  up  between  lofty  bluffs,  around  whose  base  it  winds  with 
most  picturesque  effect.  The  town  lies  very  much  like  Norwich, 
Conn. ;  the  streets  rise  one  above  another,  and  the  communication 
between  them  is  by  nights  of  steps,  so  that  the  houses  on  the  higher 
streets  are  perched  like  an  eagle's  eyrie,  overlooking  the  rest  and 
commanding  an  extensive  prospect.  No  sooner  do  you  step  on 
shore  from  the  steamer  than  you  see  the  signs  of  thrift  and  enter- 
29 


338  WESTERN    PORTRAITURE. 

prise,  and  in  the  huge  piles  of  pig  lead  you  see  also  the  great 
resource  and  stimulus  of  all  this  in  the  mines  in  which  the  region 
here  abounds.  The  town  wears  a  pleasant,  lively  air,  and  as  it 
suns  itself  on  a  bright  morning  among  the  verdant  hills,  looks  alto 
gether  coquettish.  Pleasant  churches  meet  the  eye  on  the  first 
ledge  or  steppe  above  the  levee,  and  private  residences  wearing 
the  aspect  of  neatness  and  comfort,  and  sometimes  of  luxury — 
which  the  munificent  hospitality  of  their  inmates  enabled  me  to 
verify — adorn  each  successive  hight. 

"In  the  number  of  its  gambling  and  drinking  saloons  Galena 
betrays  the  influence  of  a  foreign  mining  population ;  yet  after  all 
these  are  not  so  numerous  as  at  first  they  appear  to  a  stranger,  who 
meets  them  all  at  once  along  the  river  front  by  which  he  enters 
the  city.  The  dominant  influences  in  the  place  are  moral  and  even 
religious.  In  view  of  the  rapid  growth  and  the  prospective  in 
crease  of  Galena,  it  is  gratifying  to  find  the  ground  so  well  occu 
pied  by  active  and  efficient  churches  and  an  able  ministry.  Ga 
lena  is  already  straitened  between  its  hills,  and  land  on  the 
main  business  street  begins  to  command  New  York  prices  per  foot. 
When  the  Central  Railroad  shall  have  its  terminus  there,  its  busi 
ness  and  its  population  must  increase  five-fold ;  then,  perhaps,  the 
lower  town  will  be  abandoned,  as  a  place  of  residence,  and 
churches  and  dwellings  will  adjourn  en  masse  to  the  beautiful 
table-land  on  the  summit  of  the  bluff. 

"  From  Galena  I  rode  out  to  the  Sinsinawa  mound — the  site  of 
the  Roman  Catholic  College,  the  corner-stone  of  which  was  laid 
with  so  much  pomp  and  noise  (including  that  of  cannon),  on  a  cer 
tain  memorable  Sabbath,  a  few  years  ago.  This  mound  is  situated 
some  twelve  miles  northwest  of  Galena,  toward  the  Mississippi,  and 
offers  a  most  beautiful  site  for  a  college,  or  any  other  public  insti 
tution,  for  which  a  healthful  location  and  an  extensive  and  varied 
rural  prospect  are  desirable.  I  found  here  a  most  indifferent 
building,  four  stories  high,  quite  roughly  finished,  and  having 
hardly  a  pupil  within  its  walls.  The  reason  of  this  destitution  is 
that  Protestant  enterprise  has  established  upon  the  neighboring 
mound,  at  Plattville,  that  rivals  this  in  beauty,  a  Seminary  of  the 
highest  order,  which  absorbs  the  youth  of  the  country. 

"  Eastward  from  Galena,  by  stage,  one  crosses  those  immense 
prairies  of  northern  Illinois,  which  have  been  aptly  compared  to 
seas — where  the  horizon  of  many  miles  circumference,  shuts  down 
upon  a  dead  plain,  whose  surface  is  not  disturbed  by  one  undula 
tion  or  shadowed  by  a  single  tree.  You  have  a  feeling  of  desola- 


THOMPSON'S  LETTERS.  339 

tion  in  the  midst  even  of  harvests  that  might  feed  the  world.  This 
region  is  destined  to  sustain  an  immense  population,  when  the 
building  of  railroads  and  the  liquidation  of  State  debts  shall  invite 
the  emigrant  to  settle  on  its  fertile  plains.  And  all  the  resources 
of  northern  Illinois  must  be  poured  into  the  lap  of  New  York.  The 
State  is  nearly  eight  times  as  large  as  Massachusetts,  and  contain 
ing  35,459,200  acres  of  rich  black  loam.  But  oh,  the  mud,  deep, 
black,  adhesive,  which  that  same  soil  makes  under  rain !  through 
what  sloughs  we  waded,  (slews  they  call  them ;  think  of  John 
Bunyan's  slew  of  despond !)  sometimes  knee  deep,  in  the  darkness 
of  the  night,  as  we  slowly  dragged  on  toward  the  Rock  River  coun 
try.  That  country,  the  Paradise  of  Wisconsin,  I  shall  best  de 
scribe,  as  it  struck  me  on  coming  to  it  from  the  eastward  some 
years  ago. 

"  Immediately  on  leaving  Milwaukee,  you  pass  through  a  belt 
of  woodland,  and  in  a  few  hours  reach  the  far-famed  oak  openings, 
though  these  are  already  disappearing  before  the  march  of  civil 
ization,  which  keeps  out  the  autumnal  fires.  Picture  to  yourself 
a  park  laid  out  with  royal  magnificence,  as  verdant  as  the  most 
carefully  kept  inclosure,  covering  hundreds  and  thousands  of 
acres,  extending  for  miles  around  you,  planted  with  sturdy  oaks 
with  the  order  of  a  well-set  orchard,  having  no  underbrush  to  in 
tercept  your  progress,  and  no  fences  to  prohibit  you  from  trespass, 
where  you  can  walk  or  ride  in  almost  any  direction  over  the  rich 
green  sward,  and  where  the  farmer  can  drive  his  plow  among  the 
trees  almost  without  clearing,  and  '  break  up'  a  most  luxuriant 
soil ;  and  after  reveling  amid  these  works  of  nature  so  far  surpass 
ing  those  of  art,  imagine  that  you  break  forth  upon  an  extended 
prairie,  a  plain,  or  gently  undulating  surface,  bright  with  the 
ever  varying  hues  of  flowers,  upon  which  for  miles  you  do  not  see 
a  tree,  or  fence,  or  stone,  but  where  the  luxuriant  grass  invites 
the  cattle  to  the  marshes  on  its  border,  while  flocks  of  sheep  are 
cropping  the  sweet  herbage  in  its  center — where  the  ripening 
wheat  over  hundreds  of  acres  waves  its  golden  locks  in  pledge  of  a 
nation's  sustenance,  the  unaided  soil  often  yielding  25  or  30 
bushels  to  the  acre,  with  but  half  the  labor  of  cultivation  in  New 
England  ;  and  having  traversed  such  a  field,  as  I  did,  twelve  miles 
broad,  strike  a  sparkling  river,  whose  banks  will  soon  vie  in  fer 
tility,  and  even  in  neat  and  thriving  villages,  with  those  of  the 
Connecticut,  and  beyond  which  prairie  and  opening  still  stretch 
onward  to  the  Father  of  Waters ;  this  will  give  you  a  picture  of  a 
State  as  rich  and  fair  as  the  sun  visits  in  all  the  West, 


340  WESTERN    PORTRAITURE. 

**  The  scenery  of  the  Rock  river  corresponds  more  nearly  with 
that  of  Massachusetts  and  Western  New  York  than  any  other  in 
Hhe  Western  country.  The  long-extended  bluffs,  of  various  hight, 
resemble  the  hilly  banks  of  a  New  England  stream,  the  bottom  of 
the  river  is  pebbly  and  the  water  clear  and  bright,  and  the  banks 
are  well  covered  with  groves.  And  then  you  have  what  New 
England  nowhere  affords,  the  prairie,  the  beautiful  prairie,  not  so 
vast  as  to  be  overpoweringly  dull  and  tame,  but  large  enough  to 
be  novel  and  wonderful  to  eastern  eyes.  The  difference  between 
the  make  of  Wisconsin  and  Illinois  is  given,  in  the  fact  that  in 
Wisconsin  the  prairies  are  named,  and  in  Illinois  the  groves. 

"  In  the  southern  border  of  Wisconsin,  just  across  the  line  of 
Illinois,  on  the  bank  of  the  Rock  river,  stands  BEL.OIT,  a  town  of 
some  fifteen  hundred  inhabitants  [nearer  three  thousand] ,  and  the 
seat  of  a  College  which  is  sustained  in  part  by  the  College  Society. 
I  hardly  knew  the  town  when  I  alighted  from  the  stage,  so  greatly 
has  it  changed  in  six  years.  It  spreads  along  both  sides  of  the 
river,  and  is  laid  out  with  much  taste.  When  I  was  here  in  1845, 
I  went  up  on  the  highest  bluff  upon  the  eastern  bank  to  examine 
some  Indian  mounds  and  to  enjoy  the  view  of  the  rolling  prairie 
stretching  southward  into  Illinois.  This  bluff  was  then  talked  of 
as  a  site  for  a  college,  and  Rev.  Mr.  Squier,  of  Geneva,  had  just 
been  on  the  ground  and  had  made  liberal  proposals  for  the  endow 
ment  of  such  an  institution.  (Thanks  to  the  kind  nursing  of  that 
gentleman  during  that  trip,  I  am  now  alive  to  write  this  letter, 
having  greeted  him  as  a  professor  in  his  adopted  College.)  Now 
upon  that  same  bluff,  sheltered  by  its  lofty  grove,  and  beside  the 
undisturbed  mounds  of  other  days,  stands  a  College  edifice  of  more 
imposing  architecture  and  of  better  adaptation  to  the  wants  of 
such  an  institution  than  any  college  building  I  have  seen  in  the 
West.  This  edifice,  substantially  built  of  brick,  is  about  a  hun 
dred  feet  long  by  forty  in  depth,  four  stories  high,  with  lofty  ceil 
ings,  spacious  and  well  ventilated  rooms  for  recitations  and  lec 
tures,  and  several  good  dormitories  in  the  fourth  story.  This  is 
intended  for  the  main  college  building,  to  be  hereafter  flanked 
with  corresponding  wings.  It  was  erected  by  the  citizens  of  Be- 
loit  at  a  cost  of  about  $  12,000. 

"  Beloit  College  is  already  in  vigorous  operation.  The  decorum 
of  the  students,  and  the  general  order  of  the  institution  are  worthy 
of  all  praise. 

"  The  ride  from  Beloit  to  Janesville  in  a  buggy  by  night,  along 
the  lately  flooded  bank  of  the  river,  through  deep  sloughs  and 


THOMPSON'S  LETTERS.  841 

over  bridgeless  creeks,  was  somewhat  perilous,  and  on  reaching 
Janesville,  a  stage-driver  congratulated  us  that  we  had  got  safely 
through  a  ditch  that  he  avoided  by  day  by  a  circuit  of  three  miles  ! 
One  collocation  of  incidents  interested  me  greatly.  Soon  after 
leaving  Beloit  at  sunset,  we  came  upon  an  encampment  of  emi 
grant  wagons  near  some  Indian  mounds ;  there  were  the  tombs  of 
the  old  savage  occupants  of  this  rich  soil,  there  were  the  eager 
travelers  from  the  Old  World  coming  to  find  a  home  in  the  New, 
there  stretched  the  telegraph  .wire,  the  symbol  of  a  far-reaching 
civilization,  and  yonder  loomed  the  college  which  should  mould 
these  raw  materials  and  shape  them  into  a  cultivated  religious 
society. 

"  JANESVILLE  is  already  a  town  of  considerable  trade,  one  of 
those  inland  river  towns  that  every  State  requires  as  a  central 
depot.  It  has  now  one  of  the  best  hotels  in  the  State  and  many 
fine  stores.  The  ride  from  Janesville  through  Rock,  Wai  worth, 
and  Milwaukee  counties,  though  it  exhibited  the  riches  of  the 
country — '  as  good  land  as  ever  lay  out  doors' — was  any  thing  but 
comfortable  to  a  spare  body  already  jolted  by  two  days'  staging. 
That  Troy  marsh  and  the  corduroy  make  one  ache  for  the  comple 
tion  of  plankroads. 

"  Of  MILWAUKEE  what  shall  I  say,  now  that  it  is  brought  within 
three  days  of  us  and  is  familiar  to  every  one ;  a  city  that  in  ten  years 
has  increased  from  1,700  to  20,000,  and  whose  growth  as  the  great 
lake  outlet  of  Wisconsin  has  only  begun.  It  is  by  one-half  a  Ger 
man  city,  with  German  signs,  German  churches,  German  concerts, 
German  gardens,  every  thing  German.  Indeed  the  German  lan 
guage  is  almost  a  sine  qua  non  for  a  business  or  professional  man. 
The  city  lies  beautifully  upon  a  half-moon  harbor  of  Lake  Mich 
igan,  and  encompasses  the  Milwaukee  and  Menomenee  rivers.  Its 
peculiar  cream-colored  brick  gives  to  its  buildings  a  very  unique 
and  lively  appearance.  I  brought  away  a  brick  as  a  specimen, 
being  careful  to  carry  it  in  my  trunk  and  not  in  my  '  hat.' 

"  Determined  to  avoid  the  inconveniences  of  the  overland  route 
by  Michigan,  we  took  passage  ill  the  Hudson,  around  the  lakes, 
and  were  favored  with  three  days  of  calm  and  beautiful  weather. 
Gorgeous  was  the  setting  and  rising  of  the  sun  in  the  clear  lati 
tude  of  Mackinaw  and  in  the  broad  bosom  of  Lake  Michigan. 
The  boat  was  crowded  to  excess,  so  that  the  tables  had  to  be  set 
three  or  four  times  for  each  meal,  and  many  had  no  place  to  lay 
their  heads.  But  captain,  steward,  waiters,  all  were  polite  and 
attentive,  doing  their  utmost  to  relieve  the  crowd.  The  scramble 


342  WESTERN     PORTRAITURE. 

for  meals  was  quite  a  contrast  to  what  Lord  Morpeth  describes  as 
a  usual  characteristic  of  American  dinners  : 

"  '  Who  that  has  seen,  can  ever  forget  the  slow  and  melancholy 
silence  of  the  couples  who  walk  arm-in-arm  to  the  tables  of  the 
great  hotels,  or  of  the  unsocial  groups  who  gather  around  the 
greasy  meals  of  the  steamboats,  lap  up  the  five  minutes'  meal, 
come  like  shadows,  so  depart  ?'  There  was  no  slow  and  melan 
choly  silence  in  that  three  days'  voyage  ;  but  the  constant  din  and 
strife  of  hungry  men,  women,  and  children. 

"  A  pleasant  Sabbath  at  Cleveland,  a  calm  moonlight  sail  to 
Dunkirk,  a  day  of  grateful  repose  at  Binghamton,  and  we  were 
once  more  amid  the  din  and  heat  and  strifes  and  labors  of  New 
York.  T." 

Repeatedly,  in  this  book,  are  the  vast  magnificent  Prai 
ries  described,  by  different  pens,  so  universally  do  they 
elicit  the  enthusiastic  admiration  of  all  who  behold  them. 
And  the  "  gorgeous  rising  and  setting  of  the  sun  at  Mack 
inaw,"  are  also  objects  of  delighted  wonder  to  all  who 
witness  them. 


PAPERS    AND    PERIODICALS. 


343 


NEWSPAPERS  IN  THE  WEST. 


THE  following  is  a  list  of  the  Newspapers  published  in 
the  States  treated  of  in  this  book,  so  far  as  I  have  been 
able  to  obtain  them ;  the  statement  is  principally  obtained 
from  the  Census  Reports  to  the  General  Government,  and 
presents,  probably,  all  papers  that  were  in  existence  when 
the  Census  was  taken  by  the  Marshal.  I  have  added  to 
the  list  some  papers  which  were  recently  started,  within 
my  own  knowledge,  not  reported  in  the  official  list : 

PAPERS  AND  PERIODICALS  IN  WISCONSIN. 


NAME    OF   PAPER.  C 

Green  Bay  Advocate,  wky.. 
River  Times, 
Patriot, 
Wisconsin  Express, 

do.        Statesman, 

do.       Argus, 

do.        Democrat, 
Education  Journal,  mthy, 
Journal,  wky., 
Fountain  City, 
Union, 
Herald, 
Republican, 
State  Register, 
Chronicle, 
Kenosha  Democrat, 

do.      Telegraph, 

do.      American, 


ARACTER. 

TOWN. 

COUNTY. 

Dem., 

Green  Bay, 

Brown. 

do. 

Fort  Winnebago, 

Columbia  . 

Neutl., 

Prairie  du  Chien, 

Crawford. 

Whig, 

Madison, 

Dane. 

do. 

do. 

do. 

Dem., 

do. 

do. 

do. 

do. 

do. 

Educa. 

do. 

do. 

Dem., 

Fon  du  Lac, 

Fon  du  Lac. 

do. 

do. 

do. 

Lite'y, 

Monroe, 

Green. 

Whig, 

Lancaster, 

Grant. 

Dem., 

Potosi, 

do. 

do. 

Watertown, 

Jefferson. 

Whig, 

do. 

do. 

Dem., 

Kenosha, 

Kenosha. 

F.  Soil, 

do. 

do. 

Whig, 

do. 

do. 

344 


WESTERN    PORTRAITURE. 


NAME   OF   PAPER.                    CHARACTKB. 

TOWN. 

COUNTY. 

Daily  Wisconsin, 

Dem., 

Milwaukee, 

Milwaukee. 

Tri-Weekly  do. 

do. 

do. 

do. 

Weekly          do. 

do. 

do. 

do. 

Daily  Sentinel, 

Whig, 

do. 

do. 

Tri-Weekly  do. 

do 

do. 

do. 

Weekly          do. 

do. 

do. 

do. 

Free  Democrat, 

F.  Soil, 

do. 

do. 

Tri-Weekly   do. 

do. 

do. 

do. 

Weekly           do. 

do. 

do. 

do. 

Wisconsin  Banner, 

Dem., 

do. 

do 

Tri-Weekly  do. 

do. 

do. 

do. 

Weekly          do. 

do. 

do. 

do. 

Taglicher  Volksfreund,  daily 

,    do. 

do. 

do. 

do.               do.           wky. 

,    do. 

do. 

do. 

Commercial  Advertiser,  daily 

,     do. 

do. 

do. 

do.              do.     tri-wky. 

,    do. 

do. 

do. 

do.              do.           wky. 

,     do. 

do. 

do. 

Daily  Journal, 

Whig, 

do. 

do. 

Weekly    do. 

do. 

do. 

do. 

Commercial  Advertiser, 

Whig, 

Racine, 

Racine. 

Racine  Advocate, 

Dem., 

do. 

do. 

Old  Oaken  Bucket, 

Temp., 

do. 

do. 

Democraten, 

Dem., 

do. 

do. 

Wisconsin  Farmer,  mthy., 

Ag'l, 

do. 

do. 

Beloit  Journal,  wky.  , 

Whig, 

Beloit, 

Rock. 

Janesville  Gazette, 

do. 

Janesville, 

do. 

County  Badger, 

Dem., 

do. 

do. 

Standard, 

Whig, 

Prarie  du  Sac, 

Sauk. 

Mercury, 

do. 

Sheboygan, 

Sheboygan. 

Democrat, 

Dem., 

do. 

do. 

News, 

do. 

do. 

do. 

St.  Croix  Inquirer, 

Whig, 

Willow  River, 

St.  Croix. 

Blade, 

Dem., 

Ozaukee, 

Washing'n. 

Democrat, 

do. 

Oshkosh, 

AVinnebago. 

Telegraph, 

Whig, 

do. 

do. 

Tribune, 

do. 

Mineral  Point, 

Iowa. 

Western  Star, 

F.  Soil 

,  Elkhorn, 

Walworth. 

Democrat, 

Dem., 

Waukesha, 

Waukesha. 

In  Lafayette,  Manitowoc,  Richland,  Adams,  and  Portage  coun 
ties,  there  are  weekly  NeAvspapers  published,  the  names  of  which 
are  not  known  to  me. 


PAPERS    AND    PERIODICALS. 


345 


PAPERS  AND  PERIODICALS  IN  ILLINOIS. 


NAME    OF   PAPER.                     CHARACTER.           TOWN. 

COUNTY. 

Quincy  Whig,  wky., 

Whig,    Quincy, 

Adams. 

Wochenblatt, 

Dem.,         do. 

do. 

People's  Journal,  daily, 

Indep.  ,       do. 

do. 

do.        do.        wky.  , 

do.          do. 

do. 

Herald  and  Argus, 

Dem.,         do. 

do. 

Western  Legal  Obs.,  mthy., 

Legal,        do. 

do. 

do.       Temp.  Magazine, 

Temp.,        do. 

do. 

Cairo  Delta,  wky., 

Neut.,    Cairo, 

Alexander. 

Greenville  Journal, 

Fam'y,  Greenville, 

Bond. 

West'n  Fountain,  semi-mthy  .  ,Temp.  ,          do. 

do. 

do.     Evangelist,  mthy., 

Bapt.,    Rockwell, 

do. 

Primitive  Preacher,  quart'y 

,     do.            do. 

do. 

Prairie  Democrat,  wky., 

Dem.,         

Brown. 

Bureau  Advocate, 

F.  Soil,  Princeton, 

Bureau. 

Gazette, 

Whig,     Beardstown, 

Cass. 

Tribune, 

do.      Mt.  Carroll, 

Carroll. 

State  Democrat, 

Dem.,     Marshall, 

Clarke. 

Illinois  Globe, 

do.      Charleston, 

Coles. 

Courier, 

Whig,           do. 

do. 

Daily  Democrat, 

Dem.,   Chicago, 

Cook. 

Tri-Weekly  do. 

do.         do. 

do. 

Weekly         do. 

do.        do. 

do. 

Daily  Tribune, 

F.  Soil,    do. 

do. 

Weekly    do. 

do.        do. 

do. 

Gem  of  the  Prairie, 

Lite'y,      do. 

do. 

Daily  Journal, 

Whig,       do. 

do. 

Tri-Weekly  do. 

do.         do. 

do. 

Weekly         do. 

do.        do. 

do. 

Daily  Com.  Advertiser. 

do.        do. 

do. 

Weekly  do.      do. 

do.        do. 

do. 

Daily  Argus. 

Dem.,       do. 

do. 

Weekly  do. 

do.      ""  do. 

do. 

Western  Citizen,  wky., 

Indep.,     do. 

do. 

Prairie  Herald, 

Pres.,       do. 

do. 

Watchman  of  the  Prairie, 

Bapt.,       do. 

do. 

New  Covenant, 

Univ.,      do. 

do. 

Eclectic  Review,  mthy., 

Educa.,    do 

do. 

Prairie  Farmer,  mthy., 

Agric.,     do. 

do. 

Commercial  Register,  wky., 

Adv.,       do. 

do. 

346 


WESTERN    PORTRAITURE. 


NAME    OF   PAPER.  CHA 

Medical  Journal,  semi-mthy. 

Homoeopathic  Jour.  mthy. , 

Norwegian  Paper,  wky., 

German  Paper, 

Du  Page  Recorder, 

Plaindealer, 

Prairie  Beacon, 

Fayette  Yeoman, 

Standard, 

Register, 

Republican, 

Illinois  Advocate, 

Grundy  Yeoman, 

Gazette,  . 

County  Banner, 

Warsaw  Signal, 

Hancock  Patriot, 

Spectator, 

Prairie  State, 

N.  W.  Gazette,  daily, 

Weekly  and  Tri-Weekly  do. 

Jeffersonian,  daily, 

Weekly  do. 

County  Democrat, 

Aurora  Beacon, 

Western  Mercury, 

Journal,  wky., 

News-Letter, 

N.  W.  Gazetteer, 

Chronicle, 

Gazette, 

Constitutionalist, 

Free  Trader, 

La  Salle  Co.  Democrat, 

Telegraph, 

Banner, 

Madison  Record, 

Telegraph  and  Review, 

Illinois  Gazette, 

Herald, 

Metropolitan, 


ARACTER. 

TOWN. 

COUNTY. 

.,Med., 

Chicago, 

Cook. 

do. 

do. 

do. 



do. 

do. 



do. 

do. 

Dem., 

Naperville, 

Du  Page. 

do. 

do. 

do. 

Whig, 

Paris, 

Edgar. 



Vandalia, 

Fayette. 

Dem., 

Benton, 

Franklin. 

Neut., 

Lewiston, 

Fulton. 

Whig, 

do. 

do. 

Dem., 

Shawueetown, 

Gallatin. 

Whig, 

Morris, 

Grundy. 

do. 

Carrollton, 

Greene. 

Dem., 

do. 

do. 

Whig, 

Warsaw, 

Hancock. 

Dem., 

Carthage, 

do. 

Lite'y, 

Oquawka, 

Henderson. 

do. 

Jerseyville, 

Jersey. 

Whig, 

Galena, 

Jo  Daviess. 

do. 

do. 

do. 

Dem., 

do. 

do. 

do. 

do. 

do. 

do. 

St.  Charles, 

Kane. 

Indep., 

Aurora, 

do. 

do. 

Geneva, 

do. 

Neut., 

Knoxville, 

Knox. 

do. 

Galesburg, 

do, 

do. 

do. 

do. 

Dem., 

Waukegan, 

Lake. 

Whig, 

do. 

do. 

do. 

Ottawa, 

La  Salle. 

Dem., 

do 

do. 

do. 

Peru 

do. 

Whig, 

La  Salle, 

do. 

do, 

Lawrenceville, 

Lawrence. 

Neut., 

Edwardsville, 

Madison. 

Whig, 

Alton, 

do. 

do. 

Lacon, 

Marshall. 

Dem., 

do. 

do. 

do. 

Metropolis  City, 

Massac. 

PAPERS    AND    PERIODICALS. 


847 


NAME    OF   PAPER. 

CHARACTER.           TOWN. 

COUNTY. 

Metropolis  Register, 

Whig, 

Metropolis  City, 

Massac. 

Western  Whig, 

do. 

Bloomington, 

McLean. 

Patriot, 

do. 

Waterloo, 

Monroe. 

Yeoman  Prairie  Land, 

do. 

Millersburg, 

Mercer. 

Morgan  Journal, 

do. 

Jacksonville, 

Morgan. 

do.            do.     tri-wky., 

do. 

do. 

do. 

Gazette,  wky., 

do. 

Mount  Morris, 

Ogle. 

Democratic  Press, 

Dem., 

Peoria, 

Peoria. 

Republican, 

Whig, 

do. 

do. 

Peoria  Motto,  mtliy., 

Relig., 

do. 

do. 

Free  Press,  wky., 

Whig, 

Pittsfield, 

Pike. 

The  Union, 

Dem., 

do. 

do. 

Spartan  Freeman, 

F.  Soil, 

Sparta, 

Randolph. 

do.      Register, 

Dem., 

do. 

do. 

Chester  Herald, 

Neut.  , 

Chester, 

do. 

Republican, 

Dem.  , 

Olney, 

Richland. 

Advertiser, 

Whig., 

Rock  Island, 

R.  Island. 

Daily  Journal, 

do. 

Springfield, 

Sangamon. 

Tri-Weekly  do. 

do. 

do. 

do. 

Weekly         do. 

do. 

do. 

do. 

Daily  State  Register, 

Dem., 

do. 

do. 

Weekly      do. 

do. 

do. 

do. 

State  Organ,  wky., 

Temp., 

do. 

do. 

Liberia  Advocate,  mthy., 

Col., 

do. 

do. 

Observer,  wky., 

Dem., 

Naples, 

Scott. 

Prairie  Telegraph, 

Neut., 

Rushville, 

Schuyler. 

Advocate, 

Dem  , 

Belleville, 

St.  Clair. 

Zeitung, 

do. 

do. 

do. 

Illinois  Republican, 

Whig, 

do. 

do. 

Illinois  Advocate, 

M.  Ep., 

Lebanon, 

do. 

Freeport  Journal, 

Whig, 

Freeport, 

Stephenson. 

Prairie  Democrat, 

Dem., 

do. 

do. 

Tazewell  Mirror, 

Whig, 

Pekin, 

Tazewell. 

Illinois  Reveille, 

Dem., 

do. 

do. 

do.     Herald, 

do. 

Danville, 

Vermillion. 

do.      Citizen, 

Whig, 

do. 

do. 

Gazette, 

Dem., 

Jonesboro', 

Union. 

Register, 

Whig, 

Mount  Carmel, 

Wabash. 

Monmouth  Atlas, 

Indep., 

Monmouth, 

Warren. 

Telegraph, 

F.  Soil, 

Lockport, 

Will. 

Signal, 

Dem., 

Joliet, 

do. 

348 


WESTERN    PORTRAITURE. 


NAME  OF  PAPER. 


CHARACTER. 


COUNTY, 


True  Democrat,  Whig,     Joliet,  Will. 

Forum,  do.      Rockford,  Winnebago. 

The  above  list  does  not  embrace  all  the  Papers  in  the  State,  as 
the  names  of  some  of  them  have  not  been  obtained. 


PAPERS  AND  PERIODICALS  IN  IOWA 


NAME   OF  PAPER. 

CHARACTER.           TOWN. 

COUNTY. 

Tipton  Times,  wky., 

Lite'y, 

Tipton, 

Cedar. 

Hawkeye, 

Whig, 

Burlington, 

Des  Moines. 

State  Register, 

Dem., 

do. 

do. 

Telegraph, 

do. 

do. 

do. 

do.        tri-wkly  .  , 

do. 

do. 

do. 

Miners'  Express,  wky., 

do. 

Dubuque, 

Dubuque 

Tribune, 

Whig, 

do. 

do. 

Telegraph, 

do. 

do. 

do. 

Norwesliche  Dem., 

Dem., 

do. 

do. 

Iowa  Observer, 

Whig, 

Mount  Pleasant, 

Henry. 

True  Democrat, 

F.  Soil, 

do. 

do. 

Western  Evangelist,  mthy, 

,    Relig., 

do. 

do. 

do.      Democrat,  wky., 

Dem., 

Andrew, 

Jackson. 

Iowa  Sentinel, 

do. 

Fairfield, 

Jefferson. 

Fairfield  Ledger, 

Whig, 

do. 

do. 

Iowa  Republican, 

do. 

Iowa  City, 

Johnson. 

Capital  Reporter, 

Dem., 

do. 

do. 

Iowa  Statesman, 



Fort  Madison, 

Lee. 

Keokuk  Despatch, 

Dem., 

Keokuk, 

do. 

Whig  and  Register, 

Whig, 

do. 

do. 

Louisa  County  Times, 

Indep.  , 

Wapello, 

Louisa. 

Herald,  wky., 

Whig, 

Oskaloosa, 

Mahaska. 

Democratic  Inquirer, 

Dem., 

Muscatine, 

Muscatine. 

Muscatine  Journal, 

Whig, 

do. 

do. 

Iowa  Star, 

Dem., 

Des  Moines, 

Polk. 

Des  Moines  Gazette, 

Whig, 

do. 

do. 

Frontier  Guardian, 

do. 

Kanesville, 

Pottawat'e. 

Gazette, 

do. 

Davenport, 

Scott. 

Banner, 

Dem., 

do. 

do. 

Jeffersonian, 

do. 

Keosauque, 

Van  Bur  en. 

Des  Moines  Republican, 

do. 

Ottumwa, 

Wapello. 

do.         Courier, 

Whig, 

do. 

do. 

CONCLUSION.  349 


CONCLUSION. 

THUS  have  I  given  a  general  portraiture  of  the  natural 
features,  scenery,  waters,  prairies,  forests,  mounds,  soil, 
etc.,  with  a  brief  history  of  the  country ;  with  an  account 
of  the  growth,  prospects,  resources,  internal  improvements, 
the  counties,  towns  and  cities,  the  population,  education, 
business,  etc.  of  the  States  embraced  in  the  work.  And  if 
it  shall  prove  tolerably  satisfactory  to  readers,  or  be  of 
service  to  them,  in  the  light  for  which  it  is  intended,  the 
writer  will  have  gained  his  object. 

The  achievements  are  numerous,  in  this  country,  of  art 
and  industry  over  the  great  and  impassable  impediments 
to  navigation  and  transit,  which  in  many  locations  the 
grand,  bold  features  of  nature  interpose  ;  and  among  them 
are,  the  two  passages  for  boats  and  vessels  from  Lake 
Ontario  to  Lake  Erie,  an  elevation  of  between  one  and 
two  hundred  feet,  overcome  by  means  of  lift-locks  in  the 
Erie  Canal  at  Lockport,  on  the  south  of  Niagara  river,  and 
the  Welland  Canal  on  the  north;  the  span  of  that  great 
river  by  a  Wire  Bridge ;  the  passage  of  the  fall  in  the 
Ohio  river  by  means  of  a  Canal  at  Louisville,  Kentucky ; 
and  the  passage  between  Lake  Michigan  and  the  Missis 
sippi  river,  by  Canal  and  locks. 

And  then  the  great  works  of  a  similar  character  which  are 
contemplated  and  underway,  are — the  Canal  at  Sault  Ste. 
Marie's,  for  passing  from  Lake  Huron  to  Lake  Superior, 
to  be  laid  before  Congress  this  winter,  and  highly  deserv 
ing  its  attention.  The  improvement,  by  Canals  and 
otherwise,  of  the  navigation  between  Green  Bay  and  the 
30 


350  WESTERN    PORTRAITURE. 

Wisconsin  river,  designed  to  connect  the  Great  Lakes 
and  the  Mississippi  at  the  north,  as  the  Illinois  Canal  does 
farther  South. 

In  regard  to  this  work,  Governor  DOTY,  of  Wisconsin, 
writes  me  as  follows  : 

"  Contracts  are  let  for  the  improvement  of  all  of  the 
rapids  between  Green  Bay  and  this  place  (Menasha) ; 
and  the  lands  granted  by  the  United  States  to  the  State 
of  Wisconsin  are  deemed  sufficient  to  complete  the  work. 
Two  dams  and  locks  are  finished,  which  give  Steamboat 
navigation  to  Kaukauna,  twenty  miles.  From  thence  a 
Plankroad  has  been  constructed  ten  miles  to  this  place, 
which  is  situated  at  the  outlet  of  Winnebago  Lake.  From 
this  town  a  line  of  Steamboats  ply  around  Winnebago 
Lake,  and  up  Neenah  (or  Fox)  and  Wolf  rivers,  say  one 
hundred  miles  each.  The  first  is  ascended  to  Wauonah 
(or  Wisconsin  Portage),  where  the  Canal  and  lock  are 
completed,  by  which  they  can  pass  into  the  Wisconsin 
river.  This  stream  is  now  navigable  for  boats  of  150 
tons ;  but  being  filled  with  sand  bars,  it  is  to  be  improved 
by  dredging.  It  is  now,  however,  as  good  a  stream  to 
navigate  as  the  Upper  Mississippi.  The  whole  work  is 
expected  to  be  finished  in  two  years  or  less ;  but  the  route 
for  travel  or  freight  is  now  an  excellent  one,  and  the 
cheapest  between  Lake  Michigan  and  the  Mississippi  in 
the  north. 

"  Respectfully,  yours, 

"JAMES  DUANE  DOTY." 

Individuals  who  are  well  acquainted  with  the  States 
and  regions  named,  or  have  traveled  much  through  them, 
may  not  meet  with  much  in  this  book  which  they  do  not 
already  know;  still  if  their  visits  have  not  been  recent, 
the  progress  and  improvements  of  the  Great  West  must 
have  greatly  outstripped  their  knowledge. 


CONCLUSION.  351 

The  list  of  newspapers  of  the  different  State's  appended 
to  this  work  will,  doubtless,  be  found  serviceable  both  to 
emigrants  and  business  men  at  the  East  for  reference. 

Persons  who  contemplate  visiting  the  West  for  loca 
tion,  business,  or  pleasure,  may  find  this  volume  useful  to 
them ;  and  it  is  therefore  thrown  out  to  the  public,  with  a 
hope  that  it  may  not  prove  '  a  blind  guide  to  the  blind.' 


CORRECTION. — Through  a  mistake  of  some  kind  the  descrip 
tion  of  Lawrence  County  has  become  mixed  up  with  that  of 
La  Salle  County,  on  page  260,  which  confuses  the  matter,  without 
this  explanation. 


CFTHE 

.TY 


THE    END. 


1 
CATALOGUE 

OF 

MAPS,  CHARTS,  BOOKS,  ETC,, 

PUBLISHED  BY 

J.    H.    CfOLTON, 

NO.     86    CEDAR-STREET,    NEW    YORK. 


Illustrated  and  Embellished  Steel-Plate 

MAP  OF  THE  WORLD, 

On  Mercator's  Projection,  exhibiting  the  recent  Arctic 
and  Antarctic  Discoveries  and  Explorations,  &c.  <fcc. 
6  sheets.  Size,  SO  by  60  inches. 

Price,  mounted,  $10  00. 

This  splendid  and  highly-finished  map  is  the  largest  and  most  accurate 
work  of  the  kind  ever  published.  It  exhibits  a  full  resume  of  all  geo 
graphical  knowledge,  and  shows  at  one  view,  not  only  the  world  as  it 
now  is,  in  all  its  natural  and  political  relations,  but  also  the  progress  of 
discovery  from  the  earliest  ages.  In  its  compilation,  every  facility  has 
been  rendered  by  the  liberality  of  our  own  government  in  furnishing 
published  and  private  maps  and  documents ;  and  also  by  the  govern 
ments  of  Europe,  especially  those  of  France  and  England,  whose  rich 
stores  of  geographical  works  have  elicited  much,  that  until  the  present 
publication  has  been  as  a  sealed  letter.  As  a  work  of  art,  it  excels  all 
its  predecessors,  and  is  as  ornamental  as  useful.  It  is  beautifully  colored, 
and  mounted  in  the  handsomest  style. 


MAP  OF  THE  WORLD, 

On  Mei'cator's  Projection,  exhibiting  the  recent  Arctic 
and  Antarctic  Discoveries  and  Explorations,  &c.  &c. 
2  sheets.  Size,  44  by  36  inches. 

Price,  mounted,  $3  00. 

This  work  is  reduced  from  the  large  map,  and  contains  all  the  more 
important  features  of  that  publication.  It  has  been  constructed  with 
especial  reference  to  commercial  utility ;  the  ports,  lines  of  travel,  inte 
rior  trading  towns  and  posts,  &c.,  being  accurately  laid  down.  An  im 
portant  feature  in  this  map  is  the  transposition  of  the  continents  so  as  to 
give  America  a  central  position,  and  exhibit  the  Atlantic  and  Pacific 
oceans  in  their  entirety.  The  map  is  engraved  on  steel,  highly  embel 
lished,  and  mounted  in  the  best  style.  As  a  medium  sized  map,  it  con 
tains  much  more  than  the  usual  amount  of  information. 


2  MAPS,    CHARTS,    BOOKS,    ETC., 

MAP  OF  THE  WORLD, 

On  Mercator's  projection,  <fcc.    1  sheet.    Size,  28  by  22 
inches.  Price,  mounted,  $1  50. 

This  is  a  beautifully  got  up  map,  and,  from  the  closeness  of  its  infor 
mation,  contains  as  much  as  the  generality  of  maps  twice  its  size.  It  is 
well  adapted  for  the  use  of  those  who  do  not  require  the  detail  of 
topography,  which  is  the  peculiar  feature  in  the  larger  maps.  As  a 
companion  to  the  student  of  general  history  it  is,  perhaps,  prefer 
able  to  any  other,  as  it  is  compact  and  easy  of  reference.  The  pro 
gress  of  discovery,  from  the  times  of  Columbus  to  the  present  day,  is 
fully  exhibited ;  and  especial  care  has  been  taken  to  show  distinctly  the 
recent  explorations  in  the  Arctic  and  Antarctic  regions. 


MISSIONARY  MAP  OF  THE  WORLD, 

On  a  hemispherical  projection,  each  hemisphere  being 
six  feet  in  diameter,  and  both  printed  on  one  piece  of 
cloth  at  one  impression.  Size,  160  by  80  inches. 

Price,  $10  00. 

This  map  presents  to  the  eye,  at  one  view,  the  moral  and  religious 
condition  of  the  world,  and  the  efforts  that  are  now  making  for  its  evan 
gelization.  It  is  so  colored,  that  all  the  principal  religions  of  the  world, 
with  the  countries  in  which  they  prevail,  and  their  relation,  position, 
and  extent  are  distinguished  at  once,  together  with  the  principal  stations 
of  the  various  missionary  societies  in  our  own  and  other  countries.  It 
is  so  finished,  being  on  cloth,  that  it  may  be  easily  folded  and  conveyed 
from  place  to  place,  and  suspended  in  any  large  room.  It  is  especially 
recommended  for  the  lecture-room,  Sunday-school,  &c.,  and  should  be 
possessed  by  every  congregation. 


MAP  OF  NORTH  AND  SOUTH  AMERICA, 

With  an  enlarged  plan  of  the  Isthmus  of  Panama,  show 
ing  the  line  of  the  railroad  from  Chagres  to  Panama ; 
also  tables  of  distances  from  the  principal  ports  of  the 
United  States  to  all  parts  of  the  world,  &c.  1  sheet. 
Size,  32  by  25  inches.  Price,  mounted,  $1  50. 


MAP  OF  NORTH  AMERICA, 

Compiled  from  the  latest   authorities.     1  sheet.     Size, 
29  by  26  inches. 

Price,  mounted,  $1  25 ;   in  cases,  $0  75. 


PUBLISHED     BY    J.     H.     COLTON 


TOPOGRAPHICAL  MAP  OF  THE  WEST  INDIES, 

With  the  adjacent  coasts  :  compiled  from  the  latest  au 
thorities.  1  sheet.  Size,  32  by  25  inches. 

Price,  mounted,  $1  50 ;   in  cases,  $0  75. 

MAP  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA, 

Carefully  compiled  from  the  latest  maps  and  charts  and 
other  geographical  publications.  2  sheets.  Size,  44 
by  31  inches.  Price,  mounted,  $4  00. 

This  is  the  largest  and  best  map  of  South  America  ever  issued  in  this 
country,  and  the  only  one  available  for  commercial  purposes.  It  is  also 
an  excellent  school  map. 

MAP  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA, 

Compiled  from  the  latest  authorities,  and  accompanied 
with  statistical  tables  of  the  area,  population,  &c.,  of 
the  several  states.  1  sheet.  Size,  32  by  25  inches. 

Price,  mounted,  $1  50. 


MAP  OF  EUROPE, 

Carefully  compiled  from  the  latest  maps  and  charts, 
and  other  geographical  publications.  4  sheets.  Size, 
58  by  44  inches.  Price,  mounted,  $5  00. 

The  best  map  of  Europe  extant,  exhibiting  the  topography  and  polit 
ical  condition  of  that  continent  with  great  accuracy.  It  is  an  excellent 
map  for  schools  as  well  as  for  the  merchant's  office. 


MAP  OF  EUROPE, 

Compiled  from  the  latest  authorities,  &c.,  with  statis 
tical  tables  exhibiting  the  area,  population,  form  of 
government,  religion,  &c.,  of  each  state.  1  sheet. 
Size,  32  by  25  inches.  Price,  mounted,  §1  50. 


MAP  OF  ASIA, 

Carefully  compiled  from  the  latest  maps  and  charts 
and  other  geographical  publications.  4  sheets.  Size 
58  by  44  inches.  Price,  mounted,  §15  00 

This  map  is  the  largest  and  most  accurate  ever  issued  in  America 
and  contains  all  the  most  recent  determinations  in  British  India,  &.c 


MAPS,    CHARTS,    BOOKS.    ETC., 


It  is  indispensably  necessary  to  merchants  trading  with  China,  India, 
&c.,  and  must  be  especially  valuable  at  the  present  time,  when  our  con 
nection  with  those  countries  is  daily  becoming  more  intimate.  Nor  i» 
it  less  valuable  for  seminaries  of  learning. 


MAP  OF  ASIA, 

Compiled  from  the  most  recent  authorities,  together 
with  statistical  tables  of  the  area,  population,  &c.,  of 
each  state.  1  sheet.  Size,  32  by  25  inches. 

Price,  mounted,  $1  50. 


MAP  OF  AFRICA, 

Carefully  compiled  from  the  latest  maps  and  charts, 
and  other  geographical  publications.  4  sheets.  Size, 
58  by  44  inches.  Price,  mounted,  $5  00. 

The  largest  and  most  accurate  map  of  Africa  ever  published  in  the 
United  States.  It  exhibits  the  most  recent  discoveries  of  travellers — 
the  new  political  divisions  on  the  north  and  west  coasts  and  in  South 
ern  Africa,  &c.,  &c.  As  an  office  or  school  map  it  has  no  superior. 


MAP  OF  AFRICA, 

Compiled  from  the  latest  authorities,  and  accompanied 
with  statistical  tables  of  the  area,  population,  &c.,  of 
each  state.  1  sheet.  Size,  32  by  25  inches. 

Price,  mounted,  $1  50. 


MAP  OF  THE  UNITED  STATES, 
THE  BRITISH  PROVINCES,  MEXICO,  AND  THE  WEST  INDIES, 

Showing  the  country  from  the  Atlantic   to   the   Pacific 
ocean.    4  sheets.    Size,  62  by  55  inches. 

Price,  $5  00. 

Extraordinary  exertions  have  been  employed  to  make  this  map  perfect 
ly  reliable  and  authentic  in  all  respects.  It  is  the  only  large  map  that  ex 
hibits  the  United  States  in  its  full  extent.  Being  engraved  on  steel,  and 
handsomely  mounted,  it  forms  not  only  a  useful,  but  highly  ornamental 
addition  to  the  office,  library,  or  hall.  All  the  railroads,  canals,  and 
post-roads,  with  distances  from  place  to  place,  are  accurately  laid  down. 
To  make  the  map  more  generally  useful,  the  publisher  has  appended  to 
it  a  mop  of  Central  America  and  the  Isthmus  of  Panama,  and  also  a 
map  of  North  and  South  America  conjointly.  It  deserves  to  take  prece 
dence  of  all  maps  heretofore  published  in  this  country. 


PUBLISHED     BY    J.     II.     COLTON.  5 

MAP  OF  THE  UNITED  STATES, 

THE  BRITISH  PROVINCES,  MEXICO,  THE  WEST  INDIES,  AND 

CENTRAL  AMERICA,  WITH  PARTS  OF  NEW 

GRENADA  AND  VENEZUELA, 

Exhibiting  the  country  from  the  Atlantic   to  the  Pacific, 
and  from  50°  N.  lat.   to   the  Isthmus   of  Panama  and 
the  Oronoco  river.    2  sheets.    Size,  45  by  36  inches. 
Price,  mounted,  $2  50 ;   in  cases,  $1  50. 

The  vast  extent  of  country  embraced  in  this  map,  and  the  importance 
of  the  territories  portrayed,  render  it  one  of  the  most  use-fid  to  the  mer 
chant  and  all  others  connected  with  or  interested  in  the  onward  pro 
gress  of  the  United  States.  It  is  peculiarly  adapted  to  the  present  times, 
showing,  as  it  does,  the  whole  sphere  of  American  steam  navigation  on 
both  sides  of  the  continent,  and  giving  the  best  delineations  extant  of 
our  new  territories  on  the  Pacific.  All  the  railroads  and  canals  are  laid 
down  with  accuracy.  There  is  also  appended  to  the  map  a  diagram  of 
the  Atlantic  ocean,  in  reference  to  steam  communication  between  Eu 
rope  and  America ;  and  a  detailed  plan  of  the  Isthmus  of  Panama,  show 
ing  the  proposed  lines  of  inter-oceanic  intercourse.  The  map  is  engraved 
on  steel  and  highly  embellished. 


MAP  OF  THE  UNITED  STATES, 

THE  BRITISH  PROVINCES,  WITH  PARTS  OF  MEXICO  AND 
THE  WEST  INDIES. 

4  sheets.    Size,  48  by  33  inches. 

Price,  mounted,  $2  00. 

This  is  a  good  map  of  the  settled  portion  of  the  United  States,  &c., 
and  contains  all  the  railroads,  canals,  and  post-roads,  &c.,  with  the  dis 
tances  from  place  to  place. 


MAP  OF  THE  STATE  OF  NEW  YORK, 
WITH  PARTS  OF  THE  ADJACENT  COUNTRY, 
Embracing  plans  of  the  principal  cities  and  some  of  the 
larger  villages.     By  David  II.  Burr.     6  sheets.    Size, 
60  by  50  inches.  Price,  mounted,  $4  00. 

This  is  the  largest  and  best  map  of  the  state  in  the  market,  and  ex 
hibits  accurately  all  the  county  and  township  lines;  all  internal  im 
provements,  and  the  position  of  cities,  villages,  &c.  A  new  edition, 
eiuuracing  all  the  alterations  made  by  the  state  legislature,  is  issued  as 
uarly  as  possible  after  the  close  of  each  session  annually,  so  that  the 
public  may  rely  on  its  completeness  at  the  date  of  issu^. 

1* 


6      MAPS,  CHARTS,  BOOKS,  ETC. 

MAP  OF  THE  STATES  OF  NEW  ENGLAND  AND  N,  YORK, 

With  parts  of  Pennsylvania,  New  Jersey,  the  Canadas, 
&c.,  showing  the  railroads,  canals,  and  stage-roads, 
with  distances  from  place  to  place.  1  sheet.  Size,  30 
by  23  inches.  Price,  mounted,  $1  25. 

This  is  an  exceedingly  minute  and  correct  map,  having  been  compiled 
with  great  care  and  a  strict  adherence  to  actual  survey. 


MAP   OF   THE   COUNTRY  33   MILES  AROUND 
THE  CITY  OE  NEW  YORK. 

Compiled  from  the  maps  of  the  United  States'  Coast 
Survey  and  other  authorities.  1  sheet.  Size,  29  by 
26  inches. 

Price,  mounted,  $1  50 ;    in  cases,  $0  75. 


MAP  OF  LONG  ISLAND, 

With  the  environs  of  the  city  of  New  York  and  the 
southern  part  of  Connecticut.  By  J.  Calvin  Smith. 
4  sheets.  Size,  60  by  42  inches. 

Price,  mounted,  $3  00. 


TRAVELER'S  MAP  OF  LONG  ISLAND, 

Price,  in  cases,  $0  38. 

A  neat  pocket  map  for  duck-shooters  and  other  sportsmen. 


MAP  OF  THE  CITY  AND  COUNTY  OF  NEW  YORK, 

Brooklyn,  Williamsburg,  Jersey  City,  and  the  adjacent 
waters.    3  sheets.    Size,  56  by  32  inches. 

Price,  mounted,  $3  00. 

The  Commissioners'  Survey  is  the  basis  of  this  map.  The  improve 
ments  have  been  accurately  laid  down :  and  to  make  the  work  more 
valuable,  maps  of  the  vicinity  of  New  York,  of  the  Hudson  river,  and 
of  the  cities  of  Boston  and  Philadelphia,  have  been  appended.  No 
exertion  has  been  spared  to  keep  the  work  up  with  the  progresr  of  the 
city  and  neighborhood.  The  exceedingly  low  price  at  which  it  it  iaiued 
ought  to  secure  to  it  a  large  circulation. 


PUBLISHED    BY    J.    H.    COLTON,  7 

MAP  OF  THE  CITY  OF  NEW  YORK, 

Together  with  Brooklyn,  Williamsburg,  Greenpoint, 
Jersey  City,  Hobokcn,  <fcc.,  exhibiting  a  plan  of  the 
port  of  New  York,  with  its  islands,  sandbanks,  rocks, 
and  the  soundings  in  feet.  1  sheet.  Size,  32  by  26 
inches.  Price,  mounted,  $1  50;  in  cases,  $0  75. 


MAP  OF  THE  CITY  OF  BROOKLYN, 

As  laid  out  by  commissioners  and  confirmed  by  acts  of 
the  Legislature  of  the  State  of  New  York,  made  from 
actual  survey— the  farm-lines  and  names  of  original 
owners  being  accurately  drawn  from  authentic  sources. 
Containing  also  a  map  of  the  village  of  Williamsburg 
and  part  of  the  city  of  New  York,  &c.,  &c.  2  sheets. 
Size,  48  by  36  inches.  Price,  mounted,  $4  00. 

SECTIONAL  MAP  OF  THE  STATE  OF  ILLINOIS, 

Compiled  from  the  United  States'  surveys.  Also  exhibit 
ing  the  internal  improvements;  distances  between 
towns,  villages,  and  post-offices;  outlines  of  prairies, 
woodlands,  marshes,  and  lands  donated  by  the  Gene 
ral  Government  for  the  purposes  of  internal  improve 
ments.  By  J.  M.  Peck,  John  Messenger,  and  A.  J. 
Mathewson.  2  sheets.  Size,  43  by  32  inches. 

Price,  mounted,  $2  50  ;  in  cases,  $1  50. 
The  largest,  most  accurate,  and  only  reliable  map  of  Illinois  extant. 

MAP  OF  THE  STATE  OF  INDIANA, 

Compiled  from  the  United  States'  Surveys  by  S.  D. 
King.  Exhibiting  the  sections  and  fractional  sections, 
situation  and  boundaries  of  counties,  the  location  of 
cities,  villages,  and  post-offices — canals,  railroads,  and 
other  internal  improvements,  &c.,  &c.  6  sheets.  Size, 
66  by  48  inches.  Price,  mounted,  $6  00. 

The  only  large  and  accurate  map  of  Indiana  ever  issued,  and  one 
that  every  land-owner  and  speculator  will  find  indispensably  necessary 
to  a  full  understanding  of  the  topography  of  the  country,  and  the  im 
provements  which  have  been  completed,  and  those  which  are  now  in 
progress.  It  is  handsomely  engraved  and  embellished. 


8  MAPS,    CHARTS,    BOOKS,    ETC., 

MAP  OF  THE  STATE  OF  INDIANA, 

Compiled  from  the  United  States'  sm-veys.  Exhibiting 
the  sections  and  fractional  sections,  situation  and 
boundaries  of  counties,  the  location  of  cities,  villages, 
and  post-offices— canals,  railroads,  and  other  internal 
improvements,  &c.,  &c.  2  sheets.  Size,  43  by  32 
inches.  (In  progress.)  Price,  mounted,  $3  00. 

This  map  is  a  reduction  from  the  large  work,  and  contains  equally 
with  that  important  publication  all  the  essential  features  of  the  state 
and  the  improvements  that  have  been  effected.  It  is  suitable  for  an 
office  or  house  map. 


A  NEW  MAP  OF  INDIANA, 

Reduced  from  the  large  map.  Exhibiting  the  boundaries 
of  counties  ;  township  surveys  ;  location  of  cities,  I  owns, 
villages,  and  post-offices — canals,  railroads,  and  other 
internal  improvements,  &c.  1  sheet.  Size,  15  by  12 
inches.  (In  progress.)  Price,  in  cases,  $0  38. 


MAP  OF  MICHIGAN, 

Map  of  the  surveyed  part  of  the  State  of  Michigan.    By 
John  Farmer.    1  sheet.     Size,   35   by   25  inches. 

Price,  mounted,  $2  00;    in  cases,  Si  50. 


MAP  OF  THE  WESTERN  STATES, 

Viz. :  Ohio,  Michigan,  Indiana,  Illinois,  Missouri,  Iowa, 
and  Wisconsin,  and  the  Territory  of  Minesota,  show 
ing  the  township  lines  of  the  United  States'  Surveys, 
location  of  cities,  towns,  villages,  post-hamlets—canals, 
railroads,  and  stage-roads.  By  J.  Calvin  Smith.  1 
sheet.  Size,  2S  by  24  inches. 

Price,  mounted,  $1  25. 

MAP  OF  FRANCE,  BELGIUM, 

4.n4  the   adjacent   countries.    Compiled  from   the   latest 
authorities,  and  exhibiting  the  railroads  and  canals. 
1  sheet.    Size,  32  by  25  inches. 

Price,  mounted,  $1  50. 


PUBLISHED     BY     J.     H.     COLTON.  9 

STREAM  OF  TIME, 

Or  Chart  of  Universal  History.  From  the  original  Ger 
man  of  Strauss.  Revised  and  continued  by  R.  S. 
Fisher,  M.  D.  Size,  43  by  32  inches. 

Price,  mounted,  §2  50. 

An  invaluable  companion  to  every  student  of  History. 


THE  FAMILY  AND  SCHOOL  MONITOR, 

An  Educational  Chart.    By  James  Henry,  Jr.    2  sheets. 
Size,  42  by  32  inches.  Price,  mounted,  $1  50. 

In  this  chart,  the  fundamental  maxims  on  Education -physical,  morol, 
and  intellectual — are  presented  in  such  a  manner  as  to  fix  the  attention 
and  impress  the  memory.  It  cannot  fail  to  be  eminently  useful ;  in 
deed,  we  believe  the  public  will  regard  it  as  indispensable  to  every 
family  and  school  in  our  country. 


PORTRAITS  OF  THE  PRESIDENTS, 

And  Declaration  of  Independence.  1  sheet.  Size,  42  by 
31  inches.  Price,  mounted,  $]  50 

MEW  MAP  OF  CENTRAL  AMERICA, 

From  the  most  recent  and  authentic  sources  ;  showing 
the  lines  of  communication  between  the  Atlantic  and 
Pacific  oceans.  One  sheet.  Price,  in  case*)  $0  50. 


MOUNTAINS  AND  RIVERS, 

A  combined  view  of  the  principal  mountains  and  rivers 
in  the  world,  with  tables  showing  their  relative  heights 
and  length!.  1  sheet.  Size,  32  by  25  inches. 

Price,  mounted,  $1  50. 


A  CHART  OF  NATIONAL  FLAGS, 

Each   represented   in   its  appropriate   colors.    1  sheet. 
Size,  28  by  22  Inches.  Price,  mounted,  $1  50. 


10  MAPS,    CHARTS,    BOOKS,    ETC., 

AN  ILLUSTRATED  MAP  OF  HUMAN  LIFE, 

Deduced  from  passages  of  Sacred  Writ.    1  sheet.    Size, 
25  by  20  inches.  Price,  mounted,  §0  75. 


MAP  OF  PALESTINE, 

From  the  latest  authorities  t  chiefly  from  the  maps  and 
drawings  of  Robinson  &  Smith,  with  corrections  and 
additions  furnished  by  the  Rev.  Dr.  E.  Robinson,  and 
with  plans  of  Jerusalem  and  of  the  journey  ings  of  the 
Israelites.  4  sheets.  Size,  80  by  62  inches. 

Price,  mounted,  $6  00. 

This  large  and  elegant  map  of  the  Holy  Land  is  intended  for  the  Sun 
day-school  and  Lecture-room.  It  is  boldly  executed,  and  lettered  in 
large  type,  which  may  be  read  at  a  great  distance.  Both  the  ancient 
ami  modern  rnmes  of  placea  are  given. 


MAP  OF  PALESTINE, 

From  the  latest  authorities:  chiefly  from  the  maps  and 
drawings  of  Robinson  <Sc  Smith,  with  corrections  and 
additions  furnished  by  the  Rev.  Dr.  E.  Robinson.  2 
(sheets.  Size,  43  by  32  inches. 

Price,  mounted,  $2  50. 

This  map  is  elegantly  engraved  on  steel,  and  is  peculiarly  adapted  to 
family  use  and  the  use  of  theological  students.  It  contains  every  place 
noted  on  the  larger  map,  the  only  difference  being  in  the  scale  on  which 
it,  is  drawn.  While  the  large  map  is  well  suited  for  a  school  or  lecture- 
room,  this  is  more  convenient  for  family  use  and  private  study.  Plans 
of  Jerusalem  and  the  vicinity  of  Jerusalem  aro  attached.  The  religious 
and  secular  press  throughout  the  country  has  expressed  a  decided 
preference  for  this  map  of  Professor  Robinson  over  all  others  that  have 
ever  been  issued. 


MAP  OF  EGYPT, 

The  Peninsula  of  Mount  Sinai,  Arabia  Petraea,  with  the 
southern  part  of  Palestine.  Compiled  from  the  latest 
authorities.  Showing  the  jonrneyings  of  the  children 
of  Israel  from  Egypt  to  the  Holy  Land.  1  sheet. 
Size,  32  by  25  inches.  Price,  mounted,  $1  50. 

An  excellent  aid  to  the  Bible  student 


PUBLISHED    BY    J.    II.    COL  TON.  11 


NEW  TESTAMENT  MAP, 

A  map  of  the  countries  mentioned  in  the  New  Testament 
and  of  the  travels  of  the  Apostles — with  ancient  and  mod 
ern  names,  from  the  most  authentic  sources.  1  sheet. 
Size,  32  by  25  inches.  Price,  mounted,  $1  25. 

"  Its  size,  finish,  distinctness,  fullness,  and  accuracy,  make  it  very  ele 
gant  and  useful.  Sabbath-school  teachers  and  private  Christians,  its 
well  as  theological  students,  may  esteem  and  use  it  with  great  advan 
tage.  *  *  *  I  own  and  value'."  Samuel  ff.  Cox,  D.  D. 

"  On  a  scale  neither  too  large  to  be  unwieldy,  nor  yet  too  small  to  be 
accurate,  it  presents  at  a  single  view,  with  great  distinctness,  the  scenes 
of  the  striking  events  of  the  New  Testament,  and  cannot  fail  to  give  to 
thoss  events  a  greater  clearness,  and  by  presenting  so  plainly  their  lo 
calities  to  throw  over  them  new  interest.  *****  it  seems  to 
have  been  drawn  in  accordance  with  the  best  authorities." 

Erskine  Mason,  D.  D. 

"Valuable  for  accuracy,  beauty,  and  cheapness.  Having  both  the 
ancient  and  modern  names  of  places,  and  being  of  portable  size,  il 
would  appear  happily  adapted  for  the  use  of  Sabbath-school  teachers." 

William  R.  Williams,  D.  D. 

"I  have  been  much  pleased  with  the  apparent  accuracy,  and  tho 
beautiful  execution  of  a  map  of  the  countries  mentioned  in  the  New 
Testament,  published  by  Mr.  Colton,  and  think  it  adapted  to  be  useful." 

Stephen  H.  Tyng,  D.  1). 


GUIDE-BOOK  THROUGH  THE  UNITED  STATES^  &c, 

Travelers'  and  Tourists'  Ghiide-Book  through  the  United 
States  of  America  and  the  Canadas.  Containing  the 
routes  and  distances  on  all  the  great  lines  of  travel  by 
railroads,  canals,  stage-roads,  and  steamboats,  togeth 
er  with  descriptions  of  the  several  states,  and  the 
principal  cities,  towns,  and  villages,  in  each— accom 
panied  with  a  large  and  accurate  map. 

Pi-ice,  $1  25. 


ROUTE-BOOK  THROUGH  THE  UNITED  STATES,  &c, 

Travelers'  and  Tourists'  Route-Book  through  the  United 
States  of  America  and  the  Canadas.  Containing  the 
routes  and  distances  on  all  the  great  lines  of  travel  by 
railroads,  stage-roads,  canals,  rivers,  and  lakes,  &e.— 
accompanied  with  a  large  and  accurate  map. 

Price,  Si  00. 


12  MAPS,    CHARTS,    BOOKS,    ETC., 

MAP  OF  THE  UNITED  STATES, 

The  Canada*,  &c.,  showing  the  railroads,  canals,  and 
stage-roads,  with  the  distances  from  place  to  place* 
Size,  28  by  32  inches.  Price,  in  cases.  $0  63. 


MAP  OF  THE  UNITED  STATES, 

The  British  Provinces,  &c.    Size,  24  by  20  inches. 

Price,  in  cases,  $0  38. 


MAP  OF  THE  UNITED  STATES, 

The  British  Provinces,  Mexico,  and  Central  America, 
showing  the  routes  of  the  U.  S.  Mail  Steam-ships  to 
California  and  Oregon,  with  a  plan  of  the  "  Gold 
Region,"  &c.  Size,  32  by  25  inches. 

Price,  in  sheets,  $0  25 ;  in  cases,  $0  38. 


GUIDE-BOOK 
THROUGH  THE  NEW  ENGLAND  AND  MIDDLE  STATES. 

Traveler's  and  Tourist's  Guide-Book  through  the  New 
England  and  Middle  States,  and  the  Canadas.  Con 
taining  the  routes  and  distances  on  all  the  great  lines 
of  travel  by  railroads,  canals,  stage-roads,  and  steam 
boats,  together  with  descriptions  of  the  several  states, 
and  the  principal  cities,  towns,  and  villages  in  each- 
accompanied  •with  a  large  and  accurate  map. 

Price,  $0  75. 

MAP  OF  NEW  YORK, 

With  parts  of  the  adjoining  States  and  Canada,  show 
ing  the  railroads,  canals,  and  stage-roads,  with  distan 
ces  from  place  to  place.  Price,  in  cases,  $0  38. 

MAP  OF  THE  NEW  ENGLAND  STATES, 

Showing  the  railroads,  canals,  and  stage-roads,  with 
distances  from  place  to  place.  Price,  in  cases,  $0  38. 


PUBLISHED    BY    J.    H.     COLTON.  13 

THE  WESTERN  TOURIST, 

And  Emigrant's  Guide  through  the  stated  of  Ohio,  Mich 
igan,  Indiana,  Illinois,  Missouri,  Iowa,  and  Wiscon 
sin,  and  the  territories  of  Minesota,  Missouri,  and 
Nebraska,  being  an  accurate  and  concise  description 
of  each  state  and  territory  ;  and  containing  the  routes 
and  distances  on  the  great  lines  of  travel— accompanied 
with  a  large  and  minute  map,  exhibiting  the  township 
lines  of  the  United  States'  surveys,  the  boundaries  of 
counties,  and  the  position  of  cities,  villages,  and  set 
tlements,  &c.  Price,  $0  75. 

THE  BOOK  OF  THE  WORLD; 

Being  an  account  of  all  Republics,  Empires,  Kingdoms, 
and  Nations,  in  reference  to  their  geography,  statistics, 
commerce,  &c,}  together  with  a  brief  historical  outline 
of  their  vise,  progress,  and  present  condition,  <&c.,  &c. 
By  Richard  8*  Fisher,  M.  D.  In  two  volumes,  pp.  632- 
727.  (Illustrated  with  maps  and  charts.) 

Price,  $5  00. 
OPINIONS. 

"  1  have  looked  over  the  work  with  a  good  deal  of  interest.  It  ap 
pears  to  me  to  be  a  very  useful  publication.  It  brings  down  the  geo 
graphical  and  statistical  information  of  the  various  countries  of  the 
world  to  a  much  later  period  than  any  other  work  that  has  coma  under 
my  observation,  and  will  not  only  be  useful  to  the  student,  but  to  every 
man  desirous  of  obtaining  the  latest  and  most  authentic  information." 
Millard  Fillmore,  Vice  Pres.  of  U.  S. 

14  The  work  appears  to  me  a  very  excellent  one,  and  a  very  valuable 
contribution  to  American  literature."  Charles  Jlnthon,  LL.  D. 

"•  I  have  examined  it  sufficiently  to  perceive  that  it  contains  an  im 
mense  amount  of  interesting  and  useful  information." 

Robert  C.  Winihrap^  M.  C. 

u  It  deserves  a  place  in  that  indispensable  department  of  every  pri 
vate,  and  especially  of  every  school  library — the  department  of  books 
of  reference."  Henry  Barnard,  Sup.  Com.  Schools  in  Conn. 

u  I  have  been  fully  satisfied  with  the  fulness  and  extent  of  the  infor 
mation  its  ample  pages  present  in  answer  to  every  inquiry — embracing 
topography,  physical  geography,  climate,  products,  mineral  resources, 
commerce,  and  history."  S.  W.  Seton,  Jlgt.  Pub.  $ch.  Soe.  JV.  Y. 

"  It  appears  to  me  to  contain  a  more  full  and  accurate  exhibition  of 
the  world,  in  its  geographical,  commercial,  and  statistical  aspects,  than 
any  work  with  which  I  am  acquainted." 

Rev.  R.  R.  Ourley,  Chaplain  U.  S.  Smote. 


U  MAPS,    CHARTS,    BOOKS,    ETC., 

"•  As  a  book  of  reference  it  is  of  great  value,  and  contains  more  in 
the  same  space  than  any  work  of  a  similar  character  1  have  yet  seen. 
•  *  *  *  I  have  great  pleasure  in  recommending  this  book  to  all 
persons  who  desire  to  possess  a  work  of  reference  touching  the  great 
interests  of  all  nations." 

Mbott  Lawrence,  U.  S.  Minister  to  England. 

"  The  work,  as  a  whole,  may  be  said  to  constitute  a  library  within  it 
self.  There  is  no  point,  scarcely,  in  art,  science,  literature,  economy,  01 
history,  at  all  appropriate  to  the  subjects  treated  upon,  which,  on  refer 
ence  to  the  work,  will  not  be  found  fully  elucidated ;  and  the  aim  of  the 
author  seems  to  have  been  to  condense  into  as  small  a  space  as  possible 
the  entire  circle  of  human  knowledge." 

Hunt's  Merchants'  Magazine. 

"No  work  of  a  similar  character,  or  on  so  magnificent  a  scale,  haa 
been  issued  from  the  American  press  since  the  volumes  of  the  veteran 
Morse.  *  *  *  *  The  author  has  omitted  nothing  that  could  at  all 
add  to  the  perfection  of  his  work."  Democratic  Review. 

"  We  feel  assured  that  the  learned  compiler  of  these  volumes  has 
spared  no  investigation  and  care  to  exhibit  the  world  as  it  now  is,  and 
we  can  very  confidently  recommend  the  result  of  his  labors.  Such  a 
work  was  especially  needed."  National  Intelligencer. 

"  It  is  written  in  a  style  at  once  easy,  perspicuous,  and  energetic." 

Independent)  N.  Y. 

"  We  feel  satisfied  that  the  greatest  labor  and  pains-taking  must  have 
been  expended,  to  have  brought  together  such  an  amount  of  valuable 
information."  JV*.  Y.  Journal  of  Commerce. 

"  Editors  and  politicians,  especially,  have  great  use  for  such  a  work. 
They  have  constant  occasion  to  appeal  to  just  such  statistics  as  these 
volumes  embody,  to  illustrate  and  enforce  their  arguments  or  explode 
the  sophistries  of  dogmatists."  National  Era. 

"  The  '  Book  of  the  World,'  embodying  as  it  does  a  vast  and  varied 
amount  of  information,  drawn  from  all  available  authentic  sources,  pos 
sesses  great  intrinsic  value,  and  must  prove  useful  to  all  classes  of  Amer 
ican  readers."  7'ezas  Wesleyan  Banner. 


A  CHRONOLOGICAL  VIEW  OF  THE  WORLD, 

Exhibiting  the  leading  events  of  Universal  History ;  the 
origin  and  progress  of  the  arts  and  sciences,  «Stc.  ; 
collected  chiefly  from  the  article  "  Chronology"  in  the 
new  Edinburgh  Encyclopedia,  edited  by  Sir  David 
Brewster,  LiLi.  D.,  F.  R.  S.,  «fcc. ;  with  an  enlarged 
view  of  important  events,  particularly  in  regard  to 
American  History,  and  a  continuation  to  the  present 
time,  by  Daniel  Haskell,  A.  31.,  American  Editor  of 
McCulloch's  iJiiivcrsuI  CJazetteer,  «Scc.  12mo.  pp.  207. 

Vrice,  $0  75. 


PUBLISHED    BT    J.    II.    COLT  ON.  14 

COLTON'S  OUTLINE  MAPS, 

ADAPTED  TO  THE  USE  OF 

PRIMARY,   GRAMMAR,  AND  HIGH  SCHOOLS, 


This  new  and  valuable  Series  of  Outline  Maps  comprises — 

A  Map  of  the  World,  in  two  hemispheres,  each  80 
inches  in  diameter,  and  separately  mounted. 

A  Map  of  the  United  States,  80  by  62  inches. 

A  Map  of  Europe,  80  by  62  inches,  on  the  same  plan 
with  that  of  the  United  States,  will  complete  the  series 

THE  MAPS  OF  THE  WORLD 

Are  nearly  quadruple  the  eize  of  any  others  now  in  use,  and  exhibit 
the  different  portions  of  the  Earth's  surface  in  bold  and  vivid  out 
line,  which  makes  them  sufficiently  distinct  to  be  plainly  seen  and 
studied  from  the  most  distant  parts  of  the  largest  school-room.  They 
exhibit  the  physical  features  of  the  World,  and  also  give  an  accurate 
view  of  its  political  divisions,  showing  the  relative  size  of  each,  with 
their  natural  and  conventional  boundaries.  In  the  corners  of  each 
map  then;  are  diagrams  which  exhibit  the  elements  of  physical  geogra 
phy,  as  the  parallels,  meridians,  zones,  and  climates — the  latter  by 
isothermal  lines.  There  are  also  appended  two  separate  hemispheres, 
exhibiting  the  Atlantic  and  Pacific  Oceans  complete,  fee.,  forming  in  all 
eight  different  diagrams,  illustrative  of  the  primary  elements  of  the 
science.  These  appendices  will  greatly  assist  the  teacher  in  his  eluci 
dations,  and  make  tangible  to  the  scholar  the  basis  of  geographical 
mechanism. 

THE  MAP  OF  THE  UNITED  STATES 

Exhibits  the  entire  territory  of  the  Union  from  the  Atlantic  to  the 
Pacific  Oceans,  and  also  the  greater  portion  of  the  British  Possessions  in 
the  North,  and  the  whole  of  Mexico  and  Central  America,  with  part  o». 
the  West  Indies,  in  the  South.  It  has  also  appended  to  it  a  MAP  OF 
THE  NEW-ENGLAND  STATES,  on  a  larger  scale.  The  physical 
and  political  geography  of  this  interesting  region  is  minutely  detailed. 
The  localities  of  the  cities,  and  important  towns,  ports,  and  harbors 
are  denoted  by  points,  and  the  map  generally  has  been  constructed  on 
the  most  approved  principles,  under  the  supervision  and  advice  ol 
several  competent  and  experienced  teachers. 

IS*  Prict  of  ihcst  Jfaps  is  $5  each 


COLTON'S  UNIFORM  SERIES 

OF 

TOWNSHIP   MAPS 

OF  THE  SEVERAL 

STATES    OF    THE    UNIOJST. 

Compiled  from  the  U.  S.  Surveys  and  other  Sources. 


These  Maps  are  compiled  from  the  original  U.  S.  surveys, 
and  other  authentic  and  reliable  sources.  The  size  of  each 
is  29X32  inches.  They  contain  all  the  internal  improve 
ments,  as  railroads,  canals,  and  post-roads ;  the  location  of 
mines  and  mineral  lauds;  the  names  of  all  cities,  towns, 
villages,  post-offices,  and  settlements ;  the  county  and  town 
ship  lines ;  and  all  other  information  usually  sought  for  oa 
maps — each  map  forming  in  itself  a  complete  reflex  of  the 
condition  of  the  State  it  represents.  The  following  States 
of  the  series  have  been  completed  : — 


MAINE, 

N.  HAMP.  &  VT. 
MASS.,  R.  I.  &  CONN. 
NSW  YORK, 


OHIO, 

WISCONSIN, 
IOWA, 
MISSOURI, 


VIRGINIA,  MARYLAND,   &   DELAWARE. 

Similar  maps  of  the  other  States  and  Territories  will  be 
issued  at  an  early  period ;  and  when  the  whole  series  is 
finished,  it  is  intended  that  it  shall  form  a  splendid 

NATIONAL  ATLAS  OF  THE  UNITED  STATES, 

which,  in  point  of  scale,  accuracy  of  information,  embellish 
ment,  and  general  finish,  will  be  superior  to  any  like  pub 
lication  that  has  ever  issued  from  the  press  of  either  Europe 
or  America. 

The  price  of  each  map,  when  handsomely  mounted, 
colored,  and  varnished,  is  $1  50 ;  and  when  put  up  in 
portable  cases,  $0  75. 


PUBLISHED     BY     J.     H.     COL  TON.  17 

MAP  OF  THE  REPUBLIC  OF  MEXICO, 

Compiled  from  official  and  other  authentic  sources  t  to 
which  is  appended  a  corner  map  of  the  States  of 
Central  America.  1  sheet.  Size,  42  by  32  inches. 

Price,  mounted,  $2  00 ;   in  cases,  $1  50. 


MAP   OF   THE   COUNTRY  12  MILES   AROUND 
THE  CITY  OF   NEW  YORK, 

With  the  names  of  property-holders,  &c.,  from  an  en 
tirely  new  and  accurate  survey.  By  J.  C.  Sidney. 
2  sheets.  Size,  40  by  40  inches. 

Price,  mounted  or  in  cases,  $3  00. 


WESTERN  PORTRAITURE; 

And  Emigrants'  Guide :  a  Description  of  Wisconsin, 
Illinois,  and  Iowa,  with  Remarks  on  Minnesota  and 
other  Territories.  By  Daniel  S.  Curtis*.  In  1  vol. 
12mo.  pp.  360,  (illustrated  with  a  township  map.) 

Price,  $1  00. 

Actual  observation  and  great  experience  are  the  bases  of  this  work  ; 
and  in  language  and  incident  it  has  much  to  interest.  It  treats  of  the 
"  Great  West,"  its  scenery,  its  wild  sports,  its  institutions  and  its  charac 
teristics,  material  and  economic.  In  that  portion  devoted  to  statistical 
illustration,  the  topography  of  sections  and  the  adaptation  of  localities 
to  particular  branches  of  industry  occupy  a  large  space :  the  geology, 
soil,  climate,  powers  and  productions  ot  each  are  considered,  and  their 
allied  interests,  their  respective  values  and  destinies,  and  their  present 
conditions,  are  accurately  described. 


MAP  OF  NEW  ENGLAND, 

Or  the  Eastern  States:  together  with  portions  of  the 
State  of  New  York  and  of  the  British  Prorinces  ad 
jacent  thereto.  4  sheets.  Size,  64  by  57  inches.  (In 
progress.) 


MAP  OF  THE  PROVINCES  OF  NEW  BRUNSWICK,  iMOVA 
SCOTIA,  AND  PRINCE  EDWARD'S  ISLAND, 

And    parts  of  the    country  adjacent  thereto.     1    sheet. 
Size,  32  by  29  inches.    (In  progress.) 

Price,  mounted,  $  1   50  ;   in  cases,  $0  75. 


18    MAPS,  CHARTS,  BOOKS,  ETC. 

STATISTICAL  MAP  OF  THE  STATE  OF  NEW  YORK, 

Comprising  all  the  principal  statistics  of  each  county- 
agricultural,  manufacturing,  commercial,  &c.  By  R. 
S.  Fisher,  M.  D.,  author  of  the  "  Book  of  the  World," 
&c.  1  sheet.  Size,  32  by  26  inches.  Price,  $0  25. 

Useful  to  all  classes  of  our  citizens,  and  indispensable  for  the  informa 
tion  of  parties  engaged  in  the  construction  of  railroads  and  other  internal 
improvements,  speculators  in  land,  and  persons  designing  to  settle  in  any 
part  of  the  State.  All  the  material  interests  of  the  country  are  plainly 
indicated  in  figures  on  the  face  of  the  map,  or  in  the  tables  which  ac 
company  it. 

THE  SEVENTH  CENSUS  OF  THE  UNITED  STATES 

Of  America,  compiled  from  oSJclal  sources.  By  Richard 
8.  Fisher,  M.  D.,  author  of  the  "  Book  of  the  World,'* 
&c.  Pamphlet  of  72  pages,  accompanied  with  a  map. 

Price,  $0  25. 

This  pamphlet  contains  a  vast  fund  of  information,  useful  to  the 
legislator,  merchant,  speculator,  and  editor.  Not  only  the  results  of  the 
late  census,  but  the  aggregates  of  each  former  census,  are  accurately 
exhibited. 


CORDOVA'S  MAP  OF  TEXAS, 

Compiled  from  new   and   original  surveys.      4  sheets. 
Size,  36  by  34  inches. 

Price,  mounted,  $5  OG ;  in  cases,  $3  00. 

This  is  the  only  reliable  map  of  Texas,  and  being  on  a  large  scale, 
exhibits  minutely  and  with  distinctness  the  natural  features  of  the  Stato 
and  its  several  political  divisions.  The  following  government  officers 
certify  to  its  accuracy  and  completeness. 

u  We  have  no  hesitation  in  saying  that  no  map  could  surpass  this  in 
accuracy  and  fidelity."  DAVID  S.  KAUFMAN,  THOS.  J.  RUSK, 

S.  PILSBURY,  SAM.  HOUSTON. 

"  I  certify  to  the  correctness  of  this  map,  it  being  the  only  one  extant 
that  is  truly  correct."  JOHN  C.  HAYS. 


Besides  his  own  publications,  J.  H.  O.  has  constantly  on  hand 
a  large  assortment  of  Atlases  and  Foreign  Maps. 

Mounting  in  all  its  forms  carefully  executed  for  the  trade 
public  institutions,  &c. 


14  DAY  USE 

RETURN  TO  DESK  FROM  WHICH  BORROWED 

LOAN  DEPT. 

This  book  is  due  on  the  last  date  stamped  below,  or 

on  the  date  to  which  renewed. 
Renewed  books  are  subject  to  immediate  recall. 


RECEIVED 


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(G4427slO)476B 


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Berkeley 


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